MK I

FORD SIERRA MKI 1982-1987 REVIEW

Once they were everywhere, but now Ford’s groundbreaking Sierra is an increasingly rare sight. We show you how to buy a good example of this extremely underrated classic...

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Time hasn’t been kind to the Sierra. At its 1982 launch, loyal Ford buyers were put off its radical aerodynamic styling, even though its proven mechanicals were largely taken from the much-loved Cortina. After fighting the good sales fight against the Cavalier in a bid to become a familiar part of UK street furniture, the Sierra slipped into banger territory, and has struggled to pull itself out ever since.

Today, Ford’s spacious hatchback is something of a classic bargain. Prices are still rock-bottom for all but the sporty XR4i, and swivel-eyed Sierra Cosworth. Yet all models offer commendable drivability and are incredibly easy to live with. 
Buy one now, before they all disappear.


VITAL STATISTICS

1983 FORD SIERRA 2.0

Engine                                    1993cc/4-cyl/OHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  103bhp@5200rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 116lb ft@4000rpm

Top speed                                115mph

0-60mph                                  10.4sec

Consumption                            35.8mpg

Gearbox                                    5-speed manual.


WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Although less rot-prone than many classics, even the youngest of the first-generation Sierras is a quarter of a century old, so rust has had plenty of time to take hold. Inspect the sill structures closely; watch out for hurried MoT-pass repairs. Take a look at the condition of the footwells. A leaking sunroof will result in damp carpets, which will in turn lead to rot eating away at the floor-pans. Watch for rusty boot floors and lower rear wings.

With the bonnet open, check the inner wings, slam panel and front cross-member for corrosion or signs of accident damage. The sporty XR4i is all the more likely to have been crashed; rippling panels are the biggest clue to poorly-repaired accident damage. 

The condition of the suspension turrets, front and rear, is crucial; watch out for clumsy patches welded over rot. Grit and road spray give the inner wheel-arches a good pounding, while a rotten battery tray is tricky to put right.

Any bubbling beneath window rubbers will only get worse over time; this is a glass-out job to rectify. Take a good look at the sunroof aperture; blocked drainage holes will lead to rust. 

Doors rot around the windows, as well as their lower edges; the plastic trim of the XR4i hides the latter. Secondhand panels do occasionally turn up at breakers’ yards, although doors for the rare three-door models will take some finding.

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ENGINE

The sprawling Sierra range used a number of different engines. The hardy Pinto was used in 1.3, 1.6, 1.8 and 2.0-litre guises, along with a Peugeot-sourced 2.3-litre diesel engine. All are tough, and the Pinto can cover over 150,000 miles with regular oil changes, although if this hasn’t happened, oil blockage problems can destroy camshafts and followers. Look out for oil smoke under acceleration, as well as lubricant leaks.

Higher-spec models used the Cologne V6 in 2.3 or 2.8-litre sizes. These unstressed units can cover over 200,000 miles with care, although top-end valve gear chatter is a result of a lack of oil changes and/or poor quality oil. Ask how regularly the car has been serviced; low values mean that maintenance is neglected on many Sierras.

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RUNNING GEAR

As hard-wearing as the engines, the transmissions used on the Sierra aren’t especially troublesome. Manual versions had either four or five gears (depending upon engine size and age), while automatics always had three ratios. All are tough, and should change smoothly, with the five-speed Type 9 still a popular modification for other classics. 

Oil level needs to have been maintained to avoid premature wear. However, if you’re test driving a XR4x4, beware of nasty noises while on the move; it could signify transfer box damage.

If the rubber suspension bushes have deteriorated, the car will feel a lot less sharp to drive than it should; inspect the bushes for the front lower arms and rear trailing arms in particular. Ineffective braking could be down to seized rear wheel cylinders, or excessively worn or warped front discs. Beware of XR4is that have lost their heavier-duty suspension dampers; have corners been cut in other areas of maintenance?


INTERIOR

Regardless of whether cloth or velour is fitted, the Sierra’s trim is quite hard wearing. This is just as well, as tracking down replacement trim will be a nightmare. High-mileage cars are more likely to be suffering from tears, stains and sagging bolsters on the driver’s seat, while carpets can go mouldy, if water is leaking into the cabin.

Check that all of the electrical functions – and there are many on the range-topping Ghia – still work. Plastics can fade and crack in the sun, and parcel shelves and door trims are often butchered to fit aftermarket speakers.

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OUR VERDICT

Competent, comfortable and easy to live with, the Sierra is still a smart motoring choice today. That explains why many survivors are still treated as everyday cars. Those fuel-saving aerodynamics, coupled with motorway-friendly gearing and thrifty engines ensure that almost all derivatives are still affordable to run. Sadly, most people have yet to cotton on to what outstanding value the Sierra offers. Grab one now, before they all disappear.

JAGUAR MK I REVIEW

Jaguar’s compact saloon brought prestige motoring to a new audience and it makes a great classic buy.

Jaguar Mk I Review

Jaguar Mk I Review

The steering is heavy yet easy to control via the large wheel but the gearbox needs careful negotiation. Automatics aren’t the smoothest but take some of the challenge out of driving. The ride is generally composed, though leaf-sprung rear can transmit the odd thump over bad ground. The 2.4-litre has the soundtrack if not the pace, but will be fine for most. 

Those after more poke will need the extra grunt of the 3.4, but bear in mind the slim rubber before you emulate Sir Stirling and other famous racers. The driving experience is not too dissimilar to the Mk2, but the thick pillars and sumptuous nature somehow make the cars feel a bit more weighty and solid, even though it’s lighter. The drum brakes don’t offer the sharpest stopping experience, and even the discs need a good, hefty shove.


VITAL STATISTICS

Jaguar 3.4

Engine                                    3442cc/6-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  210bhp@5500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 216lb ft@3000rpm

Top speed                                120mph

0-60mph                                  9.1sec

Consumption                           16-20mpg


WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Rot in the rear wheelarches and spats is not uncommon and the area immediately behind the rear wheels can suffer badly, so get down on your knees to check thoroughly. The boot floor is well worth inspection, as are the inner wheelarches. Make sure all the brightwork is in good condition too as replacements are not always easy to source.

Check the rear spring hangers and listen out for excessive rear axle noise. They can be costly to rebuild. Some like to upgrade cars to wires, but it’s an involved business requiring many parts to be changed. Cars with wires fitted will command a premium, but they are time consuming to keep clean and can suffer from corrosion. Check all the spokes are firmly in place and not suffering from any visible damage. The 2.4 wears ordinary steel wheels, with the 3.4 having cut-down rear spats to clear the optional centre-lock wire wheels. The 3.4s from 1958-on may well have disc brakes. 

Check around the wheelarch for rot and check for excessive play in the steering. The car should feel easy to direct on a test drive and shouldn’t wander. Worn bushes can cause front-end clonks. 

Check for sill corrosion and the quality of any repairs. Replacement of a sill could easily cost £2000, or more once paint has been factored in. Open the doors and check the state of the sill tops – bodged repairs are tricky to do without it being obvious. You can inspect the sill end via the wheelarch – although it may not be so easy at the rear due to the spats. Front floorpans can also be a concern, especially if the windscreen seal has been leaking. 

ENGINE

Tried and tested twin-cam XK engines provide the power for the MkI. Watch for excessive leaks from the rear crankshaft oil seal (an engine-out job to resolve), blue smoke from the exhaust and any knocking or grumbling from the bottom end. Timing chains can rattle and regular oil changes are essential. Keep an eye on the temperature gauge and check the radiator for cold spots after a run. An electric fan is a sensible upgrade, but not essential if the cooling system is healthy. If a fan is fitted, leave the car at idle and check that it kicks in as it should. 

RUNNING GEAR

The MkI’s monocoque construction means restoration can be exceedingly complex and expensive. Start your hunt for rot with the nose – any signs of bubbling around the headlamps or horn-grilles hints at something far worse beneath the surface. The bottom few inches of the wings are particularly vulnerable. Also check the main chassis rails as they head rearwards and the front crossmember. 

INTERIOR

Check the seats for damage, splits and sagging, and the wood dashboard for cracks or delamination. Restoring the veneer correctly can be very expensive. Make sure no one has attempted messy repairs. With the seller’s permission, lift out the rear seat base as it gives a good opportunity to check the channels that the rear leaf springs sit in. Even good cars can have issues here. The Moss manual gearbox can be a bit crunchy if you try and hurry it, so take your time. First gear will whine somewhat, but other gears should be relatively quiet. Overdrive is very desirable – make sure it works if fitted. Automatics are not the most refined of kit, but shouldn’t jolt too much or slip in gear.


OUR VERDICT

The MkI has been overlooked for decades, but rarity has driven values up. With 210bhp and a top speed of 120mph, the 3.4 certainly has a lot of performance to offer, but this is a car that is is about much more than sprint times. Most will find the gentle, refined ride quality of much more interest. It’s a great car for wafting around, and is a fantastic choice if you want to set yourself apart from the Mk2 crowd. You’ll struggle to find a bargain, however, and restoration costs can be eye-watering.