MORRIS MINOR TRAVELLER REVIEW

You don’t need carpentry skills if you buy the right Minor ‘Woodie’...

The Traveller may not have been a part of the celebrated Minor family from the very beginning (it was launched in 1953, some five years after the saloon), but the fact that it was still in the line-up when the range was discontinued in 1971 goes some way to showing just how popular it really was.

Key to the Traveller’s appeal, of course, is its astonishing practicality: you can fit four adults into a saloon or convertible, but with the Traveller, you don’t have to skimp on luggage either. Go for one of the later models (1962 onwards) and there’s greater power to go with the load-lugging, too. Just 48bhp might not sound like much, but all things are relative – the 948cc engine produces 37bhp, and the 803cc a paltry 30bhp!

VITAL STATISTICS

MORRIS MINOR TRAVELLER 1098

Engine                                    1098cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  48bhp@5100rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 60 lb ft @2500rpm

Top speed                                77mph

0-60mph                                  24.8sec

Consumption                            31.2mpg

Gearbox                                    4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

The half-timbered rear bodywork is crucial to the structural integrity of the car, so rotten woodwork here is an immediate MoT failure.

Failure to sand-down the ash timbers and re-varnish them every year will soon see them off, and since it’s easier to replace a Traveller’s entire woodwork than it is to patch it up, the bills can soon mount up – budget at least £2000 to replace
a Traveller’s woodwork in its entirety.

Check the rear doors, too: sourcing a sound single door to replace a rotten original sounds sensible, but getting mismatched doors to align can prove extremely difficult in practice.

Elsewhere, the common Traveller rot-spots are much the same as the saloon’s. Repair panels for the aluminium rear bodywork are available, but not the (also aluminium) roof. Check for corrosion in the rear spring hangers and chassis extensions and front chassis legs. Obvious sill covers should start alarm bells ringing, too, likewise bodged inner wing repairs. Remember, too, that while there is some panel interchangeability between models, the Traveller’s doors are shared only with the convertible and two-door saloon.

ENGINE

The earliest Travellers use the simple, but gutless 803cc sidevalve engine – these are popular with collectors, but struggle to cope with modern traffic and are arguably best avoided. Indeed, they are frequently retro-fitted with either the sweet-revving and durable 948cc or more potent 1098cc OHV engines. The former is refined and can reach over 150,000 miles between re-builds, while the latter has more power and torque.

Signs of wear to look out for include oily exhaust smoke under load or on the overrun (worn cylinder bores), overly vocal tappets (they might just need adjusting, but could be approaching the end of their useful lives) and ominous knocking sounds (often from a bottom end that’s about to expire). Ignore rattling (for which read ‘loose’) timing chains or an oil pressure warning light that’s slow to extinguish at your peril, too.

RUNNING GEAR

By their very nature, these cars can lead hard lives, so an overly low ride-height suggests sagging or broken rear leaf springs. Bouncy lever-arm suspension is all part of the Minor driving experience, but stiffness in the front suspension often betrays trunnions that haven’t been greased at the proper intervals (every 3000 miles) and are therefore worn. Finding a car that’s been converted to telescopic dampers is desirable.

The gearbox is a known weakness on all Minors, although the ribbed casing transmission fitted to 1098cc cars is the toughest of the lot. None has synchromesh on first gear, but synchros on the other gears wear with alarming ease, so watch out for crunches during the road-test. Unless you’re a stickler for originality, don’t be put off by cars fitted with a Ford Type 9 five-speed gearbox – it’s as tough as they come and the tall fifth gear makes 80mph cruising possible on the 1098cc cars.

INTERIOR

Minor interiors are simple and hard-wearing, but even a car with a shabby cabin is worth considering if the price is right, thanks to impressive aftermarket support. Common problems include a damaged or sagging driver’s seat, tears in the upholstery and worn out luggage area carpets. The dashboard instruments are common to other group cars of the period, too, and are easily re-built. 

Curiously, the only item of trim that regularly causes problems is the indicator stalk, which on later models has a habit of overheating and causing the plastic to melt. Stalks with the green flashing tip are super-rare these days, too.

Perished door or window rubbers can allow water in, so check for rotten floor coverings and a general smell of dampness or mustiness.

OUR VERDICT

The days of decent Moggies coming onto the market for peanuts may be long gone (indeed, you can pay up to £17,000 for a really good one today), but they remain cheap to maintain, easy to work on and mechanically straightforward. Parts supplies are second to none, too. Get yourself a properly sorted 1098cc Traveller, and we can think of no better all-round practical classic car bargain.

MORRIS MINOR REVIEW

The Morris Minor was launched at the Earls Court Motor Show in 1948 against a background of austerity in Britain, where fuel rationing was still very much a reality. It represented a shift away from the large capacity cars that were popular before the war towards the smaller, more frugal motorcar. The man to spearhead this revolution was Sir Alec Issigonis – who would go on to perform the same trick years later when he designed the Mini.

The first series of cars are known as MM models, and were in production from 1948 to 1953. Though they were originally designed to carry a flat-four engine, late in the design process this was changed to the 918cc Morris sidevalve engine that was found in the Morris 8. The motor produced 27.5bhp and allowed the Minor a top speed of 64mph, but the main selling point was its fuel economy – it drank one gallon every 33 miles. Initially the Minor was only offered as a two or four-door saloon, but by 1950 a four-seat tourer had been added to the lineup, offering the British public budget top-down motoring.

By 1952 the now antiquated ‘split screen’ Minor was very dated. A heater was only offered as an option with the introduction of a proper water pump late in the run, and the sidevalve engine was reaching the end of its life cycle. So it was that the updated Series II car began production in 1952. Aside from the one-piece windscreen, the most notable change was the engine – disposing of the asthmatic sidevalve of the Morris 8 in favour of the new 803cc A-series overhead valve design, which was developed for the Minor rival, the Austin A30.As well as the engine improvements, the model range was also updated with the addition of pickup, convertible and van variants – and of course, the ever popular Traveller.

In 1956 the Morris Minor received another well-needed revamp. Though the ageing looks were left practically untouched, vital upgrades were made to modernise the car including the addition of indicators (in place of the old trafficators) and an increase in engine capacity to 948cc. This gave the Minor fractionally more real world performance at a time when other cars of the day were becoming quicker and quicker.

By 1961 the millionth Minor had been produced, and by way of celebration BMC launched a commemorative model, the Minor Million. Every Minor Million featured the same Lilac bodywork and white interior combination, and were only available in two-door configuration. In total only 350 of these cars were produced, and as such will command a premium over a standard Minor in comparative condition. Almost 50 years before Skoda created their Fabia from cake, Morris had done the same, delivering a Minor Million – made from entirely edible components – to the Great Ormond Street Hospital.

By 1962 the Minor received its last major updates – notably an increase in engine capacity to 1098cc. Though it didn’t improve fuel economy, it did offer much more spirited performance, and these cars are the most usable on today’s roads.

Prices start at around £1000 for a Minor saloon in usable condition, but budget double that for a smart car. Restoration costs can mount, so it’s a good idea to buy the best your budget will allow.

When you get into a Fintail, you can’t fail to be impressed by how spacious it is, especially compared with modern cars. You sit high up on a fairly firm seat and the wheel in front of you with its chrome horn ring seems just huge. Then there’s that extraordinary vertical strip speedometer, a column change (in most cars) and an umbrella handbrake under the dash.

None of the engines is particularly quiet, a failing of most OHC designs of the time. Worn engines can be very noisy at the top end, though. The gears slot in nicely, although the intermediates don’t feel ideally spaced. Automatics work well enough but the changes can be a bit rough. 

On the road, you’ll quickly adapt to the car’s natural rhythm. The suspension is very soft, and on later cars a Boge self-levelling strut at the rear was used to prevent tail-end droop when laden. All that of course makes for plenty of suspension wallow over bumps and plenty of cornering roll, but a Fintail soon begins to feel right, and after a while you’ll forget how old the car is and will settle down to enjoying the drive. That’s it – you’re hooked!

VITAL STATISTICS

MORRIS MINOR 1000

Engine                                    1098cc/4-cylinder/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  48bhp@5100rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 60lb ft@2500rpm

Top speed                                77mph

0-60mph                                  22.2sec

Consumption                           38mpg

Gearbox                                   4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Hot spots for corrosion are: sills, wheelarches, headlamp fixings, bumpers, panel gaps, door hinges and wings. All manner of rust can be hiding on the underside of the car, too. Your best bet is to inspect the bodywork as thoroughly as possible and in good light.  

Woodwork on Traveller estates requires attention, as it is prone to rotting if the car hasn’t been cared for. Look out for discolouration or softness, particularly where the different sections join together (below).  

The suspension components need greasing regularly – as often as every 3000 miles is recommended. Let it slack, and the trunnions and swivel pins can wear out quickly, but this isn’t fatal as replacements are cheap and easy to find. The leaf spring set-up at the rear is pretty archaic, and many owners have swapped the lower arm dampers for telescopic items. However, the dampers can rub against the tyres if they haven’t been fitted correctly.

ENGINE

Listen out for a deep thudding sound when starting the engine. If this is evident until the oil light goes out then the bearings in the engine are probably worn, which may necessitate a rebuild. 

Remove the radiator cap and have a look at the coolant inside. If you can see any traces of oil on top of the coolant then there may be a head gasket problem. The usual check for a white and creamy residue on the inside of the oil filler cap will also affirm any issues with the head.  

ELECTRICS

The electrics are incredibly simple, so there’s not much to worry about other than age-related wear or bodged stereo fittings. Cars that see regular use will benefit from modern additions like an alternator, electric screen washer and halogen headlamps, so don’t be surprised or scared off by such upgrades, as they’re usually worthwhile. 

RUNNING GEAR

Don’t worry about a slight whirring sound when accelerating in first gear. This is perfectly normal and is simply a characteristic of the Morris. What should cause concern is a grinding noise, which indicates wear in the gearbox. 

BRAKES

All Minors came with front and rear drum brakes, which are fine as long as they’re set-up correctly and in good condition. Retrofitted front disc brakes and a servo aren’t uncommon and, again, are fine as long as the work has been done properly. Problems are more likely to come from the brake master cylinder, which sits under the driver’s footwell and is exposed to road debris. Swapping them is easy enough. 

INTERIOR

Interiors will obviously vary dramatically from car to car, but don’t be too worried about a cabin that’s a little rough around the edges. Trim is readily available and very cheap, so sourcing new bits is rarely an issue. Bakelite switches found on early models are the only components that are tricky to track down, but more durable plastic replacements are available. Series I and II cars came with leather trim, while later models got vinyl. Retrofitted leather isn’t uncommon on later cars. 

OUR VERDICT

There’s a wonderful chumminess about the Morris Minor, a car that seesm to so perfectly sum up happy family life in the 60s.

The curvaceous, sit-up-and-beg looks, friendly face and everyman image render it one of the most affable classic cars around. That’s far from the extent of its appeal though, as the Moggy proved hugely popular when it arrived in 1948, then known as the MM or Low Light because the headlamps originally sat low down in the grille. 

The saloon and the Tourer (convertible) were the first versions on the market, but when the Series II Minor appeared in 1952, the Traveller estate version followed a year later. Its external ash frame added an extra dose of charm and Travellers are now the most coveted of all Minors. 

Over 1.3 million were built, so it’s still very easy to find a Minor in any kind of condition. We defy you not to be able to find one, even locally, such is their enduring popularity. Fantastically simple engines, a huge parts supply and strong club support make ownership all the more attractive, too.

If you must have an early Minor then be prepared to hunt for a good one and set aside some time to look for parts and get to your destinations. For many, the easy going appeal of the later 1000 will prevail. It is neither difficult, nor expensive to come by a tidy example, and there are so many around that you can afford to be picky. 

Mint Travellers can change hands for £10,000, which seems like a lot for a Moggy, but that puts their increasing desirability into perspective. 

We reckon that £5000 for a Minor 1000 in good nick is a reasonable price, and one that could pay dividends in years to come if the cars continue to grow in value. The timeless appeal of the Morris means that it probably will, too. 

MORRIS MINOR CONVERTIBLE REVIEW

For many this represents the ultimate cool British tourer, but finding an original condition car or quality conversion can be troublesome. Here’s our guide to avoid the pitfalls.

The Morris Minor convertible or tourer has always been seen as the cream of the crop and as such demands a premium – especially if it is an original white one.

Perhaps it represented a sturdier answer to the sportier tourers of the day or was it the constant lovable TV exposure through series from Man About The House to Lovejoy?

The Morris Minor was memorably launched at the 1948 Earl’s Court Motor Show, available initially as a two-door, four-seater saloon or convertible. While Alec Issigonis was rightly praised for this new ‘modern’ car, the name revived that carried by a vehicle dating back to 1928, while the idea of an open top tourer was also a homage to the pre-war Morris Eight tradition.

While not perhaps an obvious choice as a competition car, BMC were deliberately selective what events they entered tourers in, i.e. ones in which they thought they might stand a ghost of a chance. The late Pat Moss, sister of Stirling, successfully rallied Minors and owned a green 1966 convertible.

Souped-up and modified Minor convertibles appeal to those wishing to turn-round the traditional matronly image of the much-loved classic.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

The Morris Minor monocoque body is a well-known harbourer of rot that often begins on the inside and works its way out. As with all Minors, the whole underside needs careful inspection, together with the rear chassis extensions, rear spring hangers and front chassis legs. Sourcing replacement bolt-on panels and parts is not often a problem, but if there is too much that requires replacing it’s best to look at another car.  With a convertible it is obviously necessary to check the triangular strengthening panels at the base of the B posts, double-strength boxing plates inside the sills, and the strengthening gussets welded at either side of the dashboard. Sagging or misaligned doors should suggest further investigation.

A properly carried out conversion offers nothing to be afraid of, but there have been some poor attempts that can frankly result in a potential death trap. If you are in any doubt, either leave the car alone or get an expert to inspect it for you. Check the cut of the panel at the top of the window screen, on a genuine convertible the panel will be spot welded into place and there should not be any holes for a courtesy light. The chassis number for later genuine convertibles (June-1958 to June 1969) should carry the prefix MAT… The final convertible chassis number was 1254328.

Tourers shared the same trim as their saloon equivalent but because of their exposure to the elements, are potentially prone to more discolouration, wear and tear. It can prove to be expensive to replace. Some original materials, such as the Carvel style carpet is no longer available and while modern substitutes are offered, they rarely match the quality of the real thing. As the position of the gear lever changed with successive model updates, you need to check you have the right fit when ordering carpet sets. At least you don’t have to worry about a headlining!

The state and fit of the roof, its frame and lifting mechanism obviously requires careful checking. Due to the age of the cars in question, many convertibles will have had either work done to them or been replaced – so inspect them carefully. See the roof in both the raised and lowered position and check for fit on the outside and inside. As well as the mechanical side and ride values, another reason for taking a test drive is to see how effective the hood fits and also to experience what its like with it down. Replacement vinyl factory style hoods and frames are available from specialists. It is possible to fit a new hood yourself, but it might be best to leave it to the experts. An original item was a hood-bag to cover the hood when it was folded down and there was even a special storage bag to hold the detachable side screens for the early models.

In all other aspects, the convertible shares everything with the saloon. Very early models are rare and there’s much to be said for a car with a 948cc engine (1956-1962) with contemporary gearbox. The later 1098cc engine (1962-1971) fitted cars will help you keep up with the traffic. Some Minors have been subjected to 1275cc engine transplants and if this is the case make sure the front brakes have been upgraded to discs.

White is the preferred colour for Minor tourers and many have been re-sprayed to meet demand, so just make sure they’ve made a good job of it.

VITAL STATISTICS

ENGINE 948cc/4-cylOHV

POWER 37bhp@4750rpm

TORQUE 48lb ft@3000rpm

MAXIMUM SPEED 73mph

0-60MPH 19sec

FUEL CONSUMPTION 36-40mpg

TRANSMISSION RWD/four-speed manual

OUR VERDICT

For many the Morris Minor convertible is the ONE to own – reflecting a true-Brit passion and potential miscalculation of the number of days you want to drive around with the top down without the back-up of a decent heating source.

Early tourers took the prospect of driving along with the ‘wind in your hair’ to a new level with their detachable celluloid hood screen sides. Fixed rear window were introduced from June 1951.

There is such a big parts and club support network for Morris Minors, that you are never alone with a ‘Moggy’. A growing number of specialists can provide essential items such as replacement vinyl hoods and frames, while offering a fitting service for those requiring it.

Production of convertibles continued until June 1969, so ironically the most sought after models was the first variation to go. With a finite amount of original convertibles available, the number of conversions on the market has obviously increased. A well carried out conversion provides a suitable alternative, just make sure it is a pukka job.

There’s no doubt that the Morris Minor Convertible is one of the great British classics – as the smile on any long-term owner’s face will confirm.

MORRIS MINOR 1000 REVIEW

The Minor is a stalwart of the classic car movement. We look at buying, and how the Minor continues to charm

Early Minors require some dedication. The earliest MMs are thoroughly charming, but remarkably slow. The Series II is a little perkier, but that’s more down to short gearing than anything – travelling at more than 45mph is quite painful, even more so in a Traveller. So, go for a later Minor 1000 for a more comfortable life. A faster speed is achievable and you can really begin to enjoy the wonderful steering and fabled handling. Do be warned though – the simple ‘cart spring’ rear axle is not in the same league as Issigonis’ front suspension design, and it is possible to unsteady it if you corner too hard. There are also a great many modifications out there – braking is one area that the Minor never really excelled. However, piloting a Minor really is one of life’s true pleasures. 

VITAL STATISTICS

Morris Minor 1000

Engine                                    1098cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  48bhp@5100rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 60lb ft@2500rpm

Top speed                                77mph

0-60mph                                  25sec

Consumption                            35mpg 

Gearbox                                    4-spd manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Corrosion is far more costly to remedy than mechanical faults. Start right at the front. The crossmember behind the front valance carries tied rods to secure the front suspension. Check for rust but also poor plating repairs. During 1950-1951, raised headlamps were phased in; lighting was improved but new rust areas created. Check for bubbling beneath the paint, though some cars may wear glassfibre wings – the fit of which can be variable. 

Door bottoms are very easy to check. 

A repair section is only £20, but that cost will rise significantly if you’re paying someone to fit it and repaint the door. Check the sill too, and give the carpeted inside edge a good squeeze. You should definitely check the floors, which will also give a feel for whether the car leaks. Underneath, there’s a crossmember that runs the full width of the car: examine this carefully, below and above, and the chassis rails that run forward from it, either side
of the engine.

Returning underneath, check the rear chassis rails, which are closer to the edge of the body than those at the front. Suspension spring hangers also need close inspection, and check for broken leaf springs while you’re under there. ESM sells a replacement spring hanger section for £34. The boot floor often rots just behind the bumper, and check the inner wings too. Watch also for bubbling around the seams for the rear wings. 

ENGINE

Initially, the Minor used the 918cc sidevalve engine from the Morris Eight. Listen out for tired bearings and watch for blue smoke, though it’s a very easy engine to work on. As a result of the merger between Austin and Morris in 1952 to form BMC, the Minor received Austin power that year – the first 803cc incarnation of the fabled A-series engine. It isn’t that good to be honest, with white metal crankshaft bearings that do not appreciate long high-speed journeys. Listen out for deep knocks from the bottom end. Many Series IIs have received later engines, but not always the longer-legged gearboxes that went with them. The ‘1000’ 948cc and 1098cc engines are much stronger, the latter accompanied by a stronger gearbox too. There’s no first gear synchromesh on any Minor, but the 1000 used a remote gearlever. Check the other gears for an easy change and listen out for excessive transmission whine over and above the usual (and extremely familiar) Minor tune.

INTERIOR

Travellers naturally need a thorough check of the wood. Look for dark patches suggesting that moisture has got in. Check any iffy-looking areas for softness. Some sections can be replaced fairly easily, but a complete overhaul won’t leave much change from £3000.

OUR VERDICT

The Minor is charming and delightful to drive, exceedingly simple to work on and boasts huge club and specialist support. The Morris Minor Owners’ Club is also very keen to attract younger members, to ensure the Minor continues, 66 years after production began.