MG TA MIDGET REVIEW

When the  MG TAtook over from the short-lived P-type in 1936, buyers could have been forgiven for failing to notice. It didn’t look much different to the PB and the OHC engine had been binned in favour of a Morris 10 OHV engine.

The first of the famous T-series MGs, the TA/TB is as British as they come. With looks as vintage as these, it comes as no surprise that the driving experience follows suit. But that's not a bad thing. Performance is modest; TA engines are generally rated 45-50bhp, but high speeds don't really suit the little car's demeanour. Things get frantic as you approach 60mph.

It also has a tendency to wander in a straight line so it's far better to slow down and let it fnid its own path, guiding the large steering wheel with a light touch. That steering can fell heavy and somewhat vague - some owners fit a steering box from a more modern car to provide a bit more confidence. Thankfully, the brakes prove more than up to the task, despite comprising fairly small drums all round.

If you want more performance, the TB's additional few horsepower is useful, though you'd still never describe it as quick - 0-60mph takes 23 seconds. The later unit does respond better to tuning, though, and buying a TB brings synchromesh for the top three gears, which improves everyday driveability if you've yet to fully master the art of double declutching. You'll also get a conventional clutch rather than the slightly tricky to master cork item in the TA.

Slide into the cabin and you'll find things are snug but comfortable, with bags of charm to boot. From the sprung steering wheel to the small but well-stocked dashboard, it truly evokes the flavour of motoring from yesteryear and its small dimensions means you'll find every switch and control within easy reach. Things are cosy, to say the least, with two adults on board but it's still a very pleasant place to while away country lane miles. 

By the time the MG TC came along in 1945, the engine had been replaced by the venerable XPAG engine, and both the brakes and transmission had been improved markedly. However, it still looked pretty much the same – a wise classic buy, then?
Early TCs were built just after WWII so the driving experience is literally from another era. They might not appear quick on paper, but 55bhp in a car that weighs less than 850kg will always feel lively. And the legendary DNA that gives any purpose-built MG sportscar its get-up-and-go is obvious here – the only real drawback, in fact, is affording a good one in the first place…

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VITAL STATISTICS

Engine 1250cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power 54bhp@5200rpm

Torque 64lb ft@2600rpm

Top speed 87mph

0-60mph 22.7sec

Economy 29mpg

Gearbox 4-speed manual

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WHAT TO LOOK FOR

1. The condition of the ash frame is crucial so it needs checking carefully for rot. Most areas are hidden but problems around the running boards or dashboard likely mean you're too late and will have to budget for complete renewal. You should also check that the doors don't sag when opened. Also, pull gently on the rear wings - movement here probably means the fixings are coming away from the frame.

2. Equally vital is checking the chassis for corrosion. Pay particular attention to the fit of the body panels as serious misalignment could indicate a chassis that is terminally twisted. The bonnet is a good starting point, as the centre hinge should align with the joint in the scuttle. Chassis flex is an issue - it's worth getting the car onto a ramp as there is a weak spot in the gearbox area where a strengthening box section can crack. New ones aren't available so you're looking at extensive repair work or having a new one made up.

3. Needless to say the steel body panels are susceptible to corrosion although replacements can be found.Check the wings, door bottoms, the panel joints, and around the rear bulkhead. The fuel tank is another rot spot as the felt pads upon which it rests trap moisture. Bear in mind too that the hand-built nature means every car will be slightly different, so an inspection by a marque expert (find them through the owner's club) is invaluable. The TB body differed little, although the bonnet's cooling louvres are different, for example.

4. The TA's 'MPJG' unit is usually long-lasting, but can succumb to cracks in the cylinder block and head, so check that oil and water aren't mixing - you'll see a mayonnaise-like substance when you open the radiator cap. Expect at least 60psi of oil pressure when warm, and bear in mind that the use of white metal bearings makes re-builds costlier. The 'XPAG' unit fitted to TBs had a stronger block and crank and a modified head, and is more tunable. Known issues include weak lubrication to the cam followers, which accelerates wear, and the potential for breakage of valaves or crankshaft, which is clearly a major fix. Shell bearings make re-builds easier and cheaper, and like the TA, if it's lasted this long, chances are it'll be fine. The position of the air cleaner is a quick way to tell them apart - it's horizontal at the rear of the inlet on the TA, transverse and resting on the rocker cover on the TB.

5. Gearboxes are strong, although the TB's extra synchromesh is handy. Likewise the rear axle, which rarely gives trouble. A TA clutch is a cork item that runs in an oil bath, while the TB gets a conventional item. Neither gives trouble unless abused. Gearbox internals, especially for the TA, are getting a bit scarce, so be wary of a unit that sounds or feels in need of a re-build - if it pops out of gear, leaks transmission oil or emits a loud whine, beware. Some owners choose to fit a Ford Sierra Type 9 five-speed gearbox for quieter cruising.

6. Leaf springs and lever arm dampers feature all round, and regular greasing of the phosphor-bronze bushes is vital. Check for evidence of worn front axle trunnions and broken mounting bolts, but it's at the rear where particular care is needed. Badly worn mountings could allow the spring to strike the fuel tank with dangerous consequences for the handling and - potentially - the retention of petrol. The Bishop steering box is known to wear quickly and is often over-adjusted to cure excessive play - some owners fit a VW unit instead. The steel brake drums can warp too. It's essential to get the suspension and steering set-up correctly, so seek specialist advice if you're unsure. The owners' club are the best place to start to find a reputable expert.

7. The interior is pleasingly simple, and professional re-trimming will sort any issues - at a cost, of course. Don't forget to check the condition of the hood and sidescreens, though, and their mounting points, plus the chrome trim.  

Bodywork

In truth, there doesn’t appear to be much in the way of TC bodywork to assess – the doors are cut away, leaving only the twopiece bonnet, wings and rear body tub to worry about. The exposed and delicate wings in particular are vulnerable to dents and scuffs, however, although these cars’ relative rarity means that most enthusiast-owned cars have been restored extensively by now. Ignore any rust at your peril.
That said, problems still arise – the doors are notoriously prone to maladjustment and will foul the surrounding bodywork if not fitted correctly. Thankfully, packing (or, if you’re feeling particularly brave, physically bending) the two hinges should get a wonky door properly aligned again.
It’s a complex car, too – there are actually 22 separate body components, most of which were fitted and aligned purely by hand and eye at the factory, so replacing rotten examples isn’t easy.
Such is the inherent strength of the body, however, that it can – just – hold together a car whose wooden frame is essentially shot, so closer inspection is a must on any car. Being an MG, parts back-up is exceptional, so replacement wood is available, but accuracy is essential – if the original timber has rotted away, then using cheap patterns to replace them is a false economy. Replacing an entire frame is neither cheap nor straightforward. 

Engine

The 1250cc XPAG engine the TC inherited from its TB predecessor is a little honey that could reach almost 80mph in period. Rough running or reluctance to start could be something as simple as SU carbs in need of refurbishment or adjustment, but cars requiring restoration can suffer from all manner of maladies, ranging from seized valve stems (owing to poorly gapped valve guides; a consequence of which in extreme circumstances can be irretrievably damaged rocker arms) to worn camshaft lobes.
Seemingly low (20psi) oil pressure gauge readings while a car is idling shouldn’t be any cause for alarm as long as it rises to around 50psi at speed. Using a higher grade of oil is known to improve idling oil pressure slightly to around 25psi, but don’t discount the possibility of the gauge itself being faulty.
Engines are tougher than you might think – common strip-down and re-build procedures involve a re-bore, new pistons, new camshaft and crank, together with a fresh oil and water pump. This might sound like a lot to swallow in one go, but should be enough to restore health to a tired, but fundamentally sound engine.

Running gear

A noisy gearbox isn’t an uncommon TC trait, and if waggling the gear lever mutes the noise then chances are the fault lies with a failing (or failed) bearing within the remote linkage. The assembly which houses the bearing can, however, be re-bored and re-sleeved with plastic to eliminate the problem. Persistent jumping out of gear, however, is more serious and likely to warrant a gearbox re-build or, in a sworst case scenario, complete replacement. It’s worth remembering, incidentally, that a Riley RM gearbox is all but identical to the MG TC’s, and will fit with minimal modifications, so long as you have the TC bellhousing. The ratios are different, however, meaning you’ll also have to invest in a higher ratio differential if you go down this route.

Interior

Leaky hoods, deteriorated wet weather gear and so on can wreak havoc on a TC’s snug interior, but thankfully there is extremely good parts back-up for these cars, just about all the associated fixings and fittings you’ll ever need are readily available. 

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OUR VERDICT

The vintage looks and octagon are an appealing combination - it's easy to see why the TA and TB are so sought-after. While great fun, their road manners reflect their pre-WWII age, so you're best off trying one before you commit. If it does suit, though, you'll love the little MG.

CLASSIC CAR REVIEWS - MG MIDGET

The MG Midget can trace its lineage back to the Austin-Healey Frogeye Sprite, the car which brought affordable sports car motoring to the British public in 1958. In 1961 the Austin-Healey Sprite Mk2 arrived, and with it the badge engineered MG Midget – a better appointed version that shared the majority of components with its Austin-Healey stablemate.

Original cars were fitted with a 948cc A-series engine – the same engine that was used in the Frogeye in 1958, only uprated from 43bhp to 46bhp. Twin SU carburettors and the revvy nature of the A-series engine made performance engaging, if not truly quick. By 1962 the ageing 948cc engine was replaced by the updated 1098cc A-series, which was also shared with the Morris Minor, amongst others. Peak power was now a healthy 56bhp and the front drum brakes were replaced with more powerful discs as a result. While early cars certainly have their charms, they are somewhat lacking in creature comforts – a heater was only an option and windows were in the form of side screens, or curtains.

By 1964 the Mk2 Midget had arrived and, in response to the launch of the Triumph Spitfire, upgrades included such comforts as wind-up windows, external door handles and an extra 3bhp.

The Mk3 Midget came along in 1966 and with it the biggest change to the model range so far – the addition of the 1275cc A-series engine that was used to power the legendary Mini Cooper S. But fans of the model were left disappointed when they discovered that though the engine was largely the same, a lower compression ratio meant that the new motor only produced 65bhp compared to the Mini’s 72bhp. Nonetheless, the new engine was a superb unit that gave the Midget much greater real world usability.

Mid way through the Mk3s production run the Midget gained round wheel arches in place of the previous squared-off design, though this would only be the case for a couple of years. The arches were quickly changed back as they provided a great deal of rigidity to the body shell, the round design having a detrimental effect on the cars handling characteristics.

The final incarnation of the Midget name would come in 1974 with the launch of the Midget 1500. Moving away from the dated A-series engine, the new car was fitted with a 1493cc engine borrowed from the Triumph Spitfire, the Midget’s closest period rival. An increase in torque from the larger displacement engine resulted in a second being taken off the car’s 0-60mph time, but the new engine was not universally well received. Though gaining torque, the new motor was not as revvy as the popular 1275cc A-series, and was also much less tuneable. Heavy black bumpers were added due to new US safety regulations, which proved unpopular with buyers.

Since the 70s and 80s the MG Midget has been the budget sports car of choice and first starter classic of many. Its low running costs, diminutive size and small purchase price make it the perfect car to drive into the world of classic motoring. Fortunately, little has changed over the past 30 years – the Midget is still a bargain classic.

Early models are becoming increasingly rare and values are rising – expect to pay in the region of £5000 for a nicely finished 60s model. At the other end of the spectrum, late 1500 models are the cheapest – largely due to their unattractive black bumpers. A runner can be had for as little as £1000, but be careful. The Midget’s bodywork may look simple from the outside, but beneath the outer bodywork lies a complex warren of box sections and water traps. Even a good looking car can be rotting from the core. The best way to avoid bodywork pitfalls is to purchase a car that has had an extensive photographic restoration carried out recently, and has been cared for since. Don’t think this will cost you the earth though – it still costs much more to restore a Midget than the car’s value post restoration. Take a healthy budget of £3500 and benefit from someone else’s time and money – buy the best you can afford.

VITAL STATISTICS

ENGINE 1493cc/4-cyl/OHV

POWER 71bhp@5000rpm

TORQUE 82lb ft@3000rpm

TOP SPEED 102mph

0-60MPH 12.3secs

ECONOMY 25mpg

GEARBOX 4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

Everyone will tell you that a Midget’s bodywork is by far the most important check list item. And there’s plenty to keep you going, as these cars can hide rust in many places. Don’t feel guilty about bringing a magnet when you inspect a car.

Aim to buy a car that’s been at the very least part-restored, as these little drop-tops rust with the best of them. Classic rot-spots include the rear wheelarches, the bottoms of the A-pillars, the boot floor and the leading edge of the bonnet. The bonnet is particularly crucial when closing a deal, since localised repairs, while possible, are time consuming and potentially expensive, as the area is double-skinned. Often, it’s quicker and easier (and therefore cheaper) to replace the entire bonnet. Also check the front valance (which bears the brunt of thrown-up stones and road debris), the sills (what appears to be minor rot here often hides much worse corrosion beneath) and the floorpan.

Look very carefully at the outer and particularly the inner sills and the A-posts. Watch out for bodging as well as rot here. Be extremely suspicious if the doors don’t close easily. This could be a sagging bodyshell which could to be put on a jig to get things right. 

Another major and potentially expensive rot spot are the rear spring mounting boxes, visible behind the seats. Be suspicious if the rear tyres are mysteriously near the top of the wheelarches. It’ll probably be rotted boxes rather than saggy springs and be pricey to put right. While you are checking this have a look at the footwells, the rest of the floorpan and the transmission tunnel.

ENGINE

The A-series is reasonably durable, but doesn’t take kindly to indifferent maintenance or rough handling, so anything other than quiet idling should set alarm bells ringing. Blue exhaust smoke is never a good sign and can indicate worn valve guides and/or piston rings and bores. Don’t worry unduly about light tappet noise or a gently rattling timing chain – it’s all part of the A-series’ ‘charm’ – but an engine that sounds like a lump hammer in a washing machine is going to cost you dearly.

Evidence of emulsification inside the oil filler cap is particularly crucial on a 1275cc car – they’re prone to head gasket failure – while rumblings from the bowels of a 1500cc engine is likely indication of imminent bottom end failure. It has a reputation for lunching its bearings, crankshaft and pistons/rings, too. Again, blue exhaust smoke under load is the main giveaway here.

Rough running on all cars – particularly when hot – can often be cured by replacing points/condenser with electronic ignition and fitting a new distributor.

Replacement engines are relatively easy to find and parts are available – though a professional rebuild will go into four figures. If a car has excellent bodywork a less than perfect engine shouldn’t put you off.

RUNNING GEAR

Gearboxes are robust rather than bulletproof but will normally still function when there’s some wear. Ironically, the Marina-derived gearbox fitted to 1500s is probably the nicest and most durable of them all, but as with the earlier gearboxes, any car that jumps out of gear is probably due a transmission re-build. Early cars are also prone to worn synchromesh on second gear as well as halfshaft spline wear. Any whines or drones from the gearbox during a test-drive is bad news.

All Midgets – even the 1500s – should handle like overgrown go-karts, so any slop in the steering or suspension indicates that something’s amiss. Trunnions and kingpins will wear quickly if they’re not greased regularly, while overly bouncy suspension is indicative of worn shock absorbers.

Replacement ‘boxes are around and specialists will rebuild yours for £500 or so.

Halfshafts may also be past their best.

The front disc rear drum braking system is more than adequate for the car. The car has a dual master cylinder for the clutch and brake systems, Check for leaks around this unit.

INTERIOR AND ELECTRICS

There’s not a great deal to any Midget interior, and what there is, is readily available from parts specialists such as Rimmer Bros, so even a scruffy interior shouldn’t necessarily kill off a prospective purchase. Main problems to look out for include a leaky hood (new vinyl replacements can be had for around £200), water getting into the cabin during heavy downpours (often more a design fault than a problem specific to a given car) sagging seats and peeling dashboard trim.

Electrical systems are simple but as these cars are now in their forties any original wiring is going to need some scrutiny, and again check for those bodges

OUR VERDICT

As a first classic, the Midget has few peers. A well-sorted example is an absolute blast to drive and its diminutive shape makes 50mph feel like 150mph. The A-series engines are the most tuneful but the 1500 has bags of torque, while all cars handle beautifully yet offer a compliant ride. Parts back-up is second to none and both of the main clubs have super-active Midget sections. Factor in knife and fork mechanical simplicity and a surprising degree of practicality, and the case for the Midget is clear to see.

Just about anyone who looks at an MG Midget is going to smile, and driving one if these cars will mean you breaking out into a full-size grin, even if you might have a squeeze getting into the car. And that can be a fun challenge in itself.

Lots of lovely A-series engine and gearbox whine, the feeling you are travelling at least 20mph faster than indicated on the speedo, surprisingly communicative steering and entertaining handling.

Maybe Midgets are too numerous for us to realise just how pretty a car they are. The cars are comfortable too, once you’re inside. You might not want to thrash a 1275cc Midget down the motorway but they’ll cruise around the legal limit.

You’re getting 30mph and more with careful driver, just about anything you need for the car is instantly available, they are easy to work on and there are specialists galore out there. And if you are not happy with a standard Midget there are countless modifications.

MG Midget