E34

BMW 5-SERIES E34 REVIEW

BMW’s third generation 5 Series was the E34, in production from 1988 to 1995. Though earlier BMWs suffered from dubious reliability, this one was a cracker. It was also a very neat design, which worked superbly as either a saloon or ‘Touring’ estate.


There was no shortage of options for this model, which opened with the four-cylinder 518i (it means 1.8-litre injection), went on through small-block sixes (520i and 525i) to big-block sixes (530i, 535i), all the way up to
V8s (later 530i, 540i). There were also some damn good six-cylinder turbodiesels (525td and intercooled 525tds). These were practical everyday saloons that were also entertaining to drive in bigger-engined form. Buy one now and marvel at what BMW achieved nearly a quarter of a century ago.

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

There’s not much that goes wrong with an E34’s bodywork, although you will probably find stonechips around the nose. If they have already rusted, the car hasn’t been looked
after carefully. Blocked drain holes allow water to collect in the door bottoms, and eventually this becomes a problem.
Otherwise, rust is practically non-existent. If you do find some, suspect an accident repair done on the cheap. There are plenty of E34s around, so avoid any seriously rusty examples, except maybe as a source of spares.
Peculiar to Britain were the 525i Sport models, with an M Technic bodykit of sills, spoilers and aprons (along with lowered suspension, sports seats, and other extras). These were attractively priced, and were often bought by people who wanted a bigger-engined E34 but couldn’t afford it. Lots of them were used very hard, so take appropriate caution when viewing one.

ENGINE

Engines were always BMW’s great strength, but we’d recommend a six or a V8. Interesting cars start with the 525i and upwards. All engines (even the diesels) are astonishingly smooth and refined when in tip-top condition. Look out, though: the rip-roaring 535i attracted the drive-it-into-the-ground brigade and many have been thrashed. Head gaskets and water pumps are weaknesses on these big sixes, so check the service history and look for overheating and roughness.
The early small sixes (520i and 525i) had belt-driven camshafts, and the belts need changing about every 30,000 miles. Like the bigger sixes, these cars are also prone to water pump problems, so check the service history. Later four-valve cars have chain-driven camshafts.
In Britain, the early V8s got a bad reputation when the high sulphur content of our petrol wore the Nikasil bore linings prematurely. BMW changed a lot of engines under warranty, and later V8s have Alusil linings which don’t suffer the same way. Bore wear isn’t a particular problem today.

RUNNING GEAR

Typically, a bigger-engined E34 will have a four-speed ZF automatic with lock-up top gear (which reduces slip and fuel wastage). These transmissions have an excellent reputation, but when worn will slip on upchanges. Later variants had improved internals to deal with this weakness, and exchange gearboxes are readily available from specialists – mostly re-built with the improved components. The V8s have five-speed overdrive autos, which are fairly bullet-proof.
Check the brake discs for any signs of wear or scoring, especially on the bigger-engined cars, which tended to get used harder. The front suspension deserves very close examination. Worn ball-joints cause the steering to feel sloppy, but imprecise steering feel may also result from worn bushes; front-end shimmy under braking will confirm that’s the problem. Note that the later bushes are longer-lived than the originals, with which they are fully interchangeable. Bushes can wear at the back end, too, and you’ll know it’s time for replacements if you can hear a knocking noise on either acceleration or deceleration. 
Rare and complex – but highly desirable – is the 525iX model, with rear-biased, computer-controlled four-wheel drive. Check that it all works properly.

INTERIOR

You won’t get many creaks and rattles from the dash of an E34. However, there’s
a lot of sophisticated equipment – automatic temperature regulation, the Electronic Check Control malfunction warning system, and Service Indicator lights – and it’s not completely bulletproof. The Service Indicator lights can play up, and if the diagnosis is a dead circuit board, owners tend to
go for the cheap option of disconnection. So check that the lights do function.
Seats and carpets are remarkably hard-wearing, 
so any evidence of problems here should sound alarm bells. Is the mileage really as low as the odometer suggests?
Many E34s had a sliding sunroof, and the operating mechanism can jam or break. Check that the central locking works correctly, especially on post-1991 models where the actuator can fail.
One final word of warning: there’s not as much room in the back of an E34 as you might imagine. As always, try before you buy.

 

OUR VERDICT
The E34 5 Series helped raise the game in the medium-saloon market and made BMW a serious threat to former acknowledged leader Mercedes-Benz. With good looks, four- (or five-) door practicality, excellent dynamics and superb engines (even the 1.8-litre four isn’t bad), these are simply marvellous cars which you can still use every day, as well as pamper like classics. As for parts and maintenance, you won’t have any worries – although you might find ownership costs of the bigger-engined models a bit of a choker.

BMW M5 E34 REVIEW

If you’re a fan of discreet performance, few cars are up to the job as well as this beautifully built muscle car – a true gamechanger...

 

Today, the BMW M5 is an all-time great and still very much on the up – but in 2004, it was still possible to pick up a usable example for £2000. How far it had come from when it was new, when CAR magazine pitched a BMW E34 M5 against a Ferarri Testarossa in 1990. Then, it was moved to write: ‘The BMW is more practical, more comfortable, handles better, and is faster on the majority of public roads.’ When Georg Kacher drove a BMW E34 M5 3.8 for the same publication in 1992, he wrote: ‘The M5 is as much fun to drive as a proper sports car, and makes distances shrink like a time-lapse machine.’

The E34 M5 was the last of the six-cylinder M5s, and to connoisseurs, it’s arguably the best of these amazing super-saloons. It was the E34’s predecessor, the E28, which had created the template for the modern-day performance carry-all. Both cars were powered by engines based on the same straight-six seen in the M1; in the E34 it displaced 3535cc and there was 315bhp and 266lb ft of torque on tap, enabling the M5 to get to 0-60mph in 6.3 seconds.

The car seemed pretty much perfect, but BMW made things even better with the 3.8-litre M5 in 1992. This featured a 3795cc engine with an upgraded engine management system, plus revised Boge suspension (dubbed Adaptive M Technic) From September 1992 there was improved safety and security, then the final flourish came in May 1994 with a six-speed gearbox. 

 

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine   3795cc/6-cyl/DOHC

Power    340bhp@6900rpm

Torque   295lb ft@4750rpm

Maximum speed    155mph (limited)

0-60mph  5.4sec

Fuel Consumption   22-30mpg

Transmission  Five/six-speed manual

Height   4ft 7in (1.39m)

Width     5ft 9in (1.75m)

Length   15ft 6in (4.72m)

Wheelbase   9ft 1in (2.76m)

Weight3682lb (1679kg)

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Bodywork

Look for rust at the base of the windscreen, in the rear wheelarches and along the edges of the bootlid. The plastic sill skirt covers can hide rusty inner and outer sill panels, jacking points plus the bottom of the front wings and A-posts. Also check the petrol flap aperture. Poorly repaired crash damage is common too; it’s easy to get an M5 out of shape on slippery roads.

Engine

 

That straight-six will clock up 200,000 miles if looked after. If the original coolant hoses are still fitted, it’s worth renewing them as a matter of course. Other cooling issues that can arise include leaky water pumps plus failed thermostats and viscous couplings. The 3.8-litre engine can suffer pistonor conrod failure on a poorly maintained car. 

Transmission

It’s pretty much unknown for a rear axle to fail, but check for leaks, with all cars getting a limited-slip diff as standard. The clutch should feel really light. If it doesn’t, get it changed. Both five- and six-speed gearboxes are strong, but listen for clattery bearings when the car is idling, with your foot off the clutch pedal. If a rebuild is needed it’ll set you back around £1200.Replacing oils seals costs around £200.

Exhaust

This isn’t made of stainless steel but it is reasonably long-lived. Because it’s double-skinned it can look tired on the outside but still be in good condition; the key is to listen for noisy baffles, which indicate a new set of pipes will be needed soon. Replacements are costly at £1200 – also make sure that the catalytic converter isn’t damaged by putting the car through an MoT.

Dampers

Listen for pattering over bumps, which indicates worn dampers; front replacements cost around £180 per corner for 3.6-litre cars, with the self-levelling rears pitched at about £600 per side. The 3.8 has Electronic Damping Control (EDC) for which some parts are now unavailable; they were last listed at £1000 per corner, so check for leaks and corroded pipes. Swapping the SLS or EDC suspension for conventional Bilstein dampers is common, which in improves the handling, especially on 3.6-litre cars.

Bushes and joints

Wear on the inner edges of the front tyres indicates worn ball joints. If the centre section of the rear tyres has worn, the rear subframe bushes probably need to be replaced; they typically last around 100,000 miles. Replacement wishbones cost £250 per side while rear suspension bushes are £78 per side (both are plus fitting). Vague steering might be worn track rod ends wear too (a pair of new ones costs around £250) or a tired steering box. The latter can be adjusted but the box is unique to the M5 so one from a lesser 5-series will have a different ratio.

Interior

Some M5s came with cloth interior trim while others got leather. Extended leather was a less common but much more expensive option which meant pretty much everything was covered with nappa hide except for the headlining. Whatever is fitted it should last well; there was a choice of light or dark grey, with the former getting grubby rather easily. 

Electrics

All M5s got air-con so check it works as it should because compressors and condensers fail and if everything needs doing the bill can easily add up to £1000. Most front seats have electric adjustment; check everything works properly. If there are electrical faults, first check the wiring loom where it passes through the boot hinge. Chafing here can lead to exposed wires then an array of weird electrical issues.

OUR VERDICT

The M5 is still a performance car bargain. No other car offers this level of grunt, usability, build quality and dynamic prowess for the money. Shame they don’t cost the same now as they did back in 2004!

BMW E34 5-SERIES REVIEW

Quick, solid and reliable, BMW’s E34 5 Series was a stunning statement of the German car maker’s abilities. It’s a vehicle that was coveted worldwide during the 1990s...
 

BMW’s third generation 5 Series was the E34, in production from 1988 to 1995. Though earlier BMWs suffered from dubious reliability, this one was a cracker. It was also a very neat design, which worked superbly as either a saloon or ‘Touring’ estate.

There was no shortage of options for this model, which opened with the four-cylinder 518i (it means 1.8-litre injection), went on through small-block sixes (520i and 525i) to big-block sixes (530i, 535i), all the way up to V8s (later 530i, 540i). There were also some
damn good six-cylinder turbodiesels (525td and intercooled 525tds).

These were practical everyday saloons that were also entertaining to drive in bigger-engined form. Buy one now and marvel at what BMW achieved.  

VITAL STATISTICS

BMW 535i

Engine                                    3430cc/6-cyl/SOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  211bhp@5700rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 220lb ft@4000rpm

Top speed                                139mph

0-60mph                                  7.9sec

Consumption                            23mpg

Gearbox                                    4-speed automatic

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

There’s not much that goes wrong with an E34’s bodywork, although you will probably find stonechips around the nose. If they have already rusted, the car hasn’t been looked
after carefully. Blocked drain holes allow water to collect in the door bottoms, and eventually this becomes a problem.

Otherwise, rust is practically non-existent. If you do find some, suspect an accident repair done on the cheap. There are plenty of E34s around, so avoid any seriously rusty examples, except maybe as a source of spares.

Peculiar to Britain were the 525i Sport models, with an M Technic bodykit of sills, spoilers and aprons (along with lowered suspension, sports seats, and other extras). These were attractively priced, and were often bought by people who wanted a bigger-engined E34 but couldn’t afford it. Lots of them were used very hard, so take appropriate caution when viewing one.

ENGINE

Engines were always BMW’s great strength, but we’d recommend a six or a V8. Interesting cars start with the 525i and upwards. All engines (even the diesels) are astonishingly smooth and refined when in tip-top condition. Look out, though: the rip-roaring 535i attracted the drive-it-into-the-ground brigade and many have been thrashed. Head gaskets and water pumps are weaknesses on these big sixes, so check the service history and look for overheating and roughness.

The early small sixes (520i and 525i) had belt-driven camshafts, and the belts need changing about every 30,000 miles. Like the bigger sixes, these cars are also prone to water pump problems, so check the service history. Later four-valve cars have chain-driven camshafts.

In Britain, the early V8s got a bad reputation when the high sulphur content of our petrol wore the Nikasil bore linings prematurely. BMW changed a lot of engines under warranty, and later V8s have Alusil linings which don’t suffer the same way. Bore wear isn’t a particular problem today.

RUNNING GEAR

Typically, a bigger-engined E34 will have a four-speed ZF automatic with lock-up top gear (which reduces slip and fuel wastage). These transmissions have an excellent reputation, but when worn will slip on upchanges. Later variants had improved internals to deal with this weakness, and exchange gearboxes are readily available from specialists – mostly re-built with the improved components. The V8s have five-speed overdrive autos, which are fairly bullet-proof.

Check the brake discs for any signs of wear or scoring, especially on the bigger-engined cars, which tended to get used harder. The front suspension deserves very close examination. Worn ball-joints cause the steering to feel sloppy, but imprecise steering feel may also result from worn bushes; front-end shimmy under braking will confirm that’s the problem. Note that the later bushes are longer-lived than the originals, with which they are fully interchangeable. Bushes can wear at the back end, too, and you’ll know it’s time for replacements if you can hear a knocking noise on either acceleration or deceleration. 

Rare and complex – but highly desirable – is the 525iX model, with rear-biased, computer-controlled four-wheel drive. Check that it all works properly.


INTERIOR

You won’t get many creaks and rattles from the dash of an E34. However, there’s
a lot of sophisticated equipment – automatic temperature regulation, the Electronic Check Control malfunction warning system, and Service Indicator lights – and it’s not completely bulletproof. The Service Indicator lights can play up, and if the diagnosis is a dead circuit board, owners tend to go for the cheap option of disconnection. So check that the lights do function.

Seats and carpets are remarkably hard-wearing, so any evidence of problems here should sound alarm bells. Is the mileage really as low as the odometer suggests?

Many E34s had a sliding sunroof, and the operating mechanism can jam or break. Check that the central locking works correctly, especially on post-1991 models where the actuator can fail.

One final word of warning: there’s not as much room in the back of an E34 as you might imagine. As always, try before you buy.

OUR VERDICT

The E34 5 series helped raise the game in the medium-saloon market and made BMW a serious threat to former acknowledged leader Mercedes-Benz. With good looks, four- (or five-) door practicality, excellent dynamics and superb engines (even the 1.8-litre four isn't bad), these are simply marvellous cars which you can still use every day, as well as pamper like classics. As for parts and maintenance, you won't have any worries - although you might find ownership costs of the bigger-engined models a bit of a choker.