5-Series

BMW 5-SERIES E34 REVIEW

BMW’s third generation 5 Series was the E34, in production from 1988 to 1995. Though earlier BMWs suffered from dubious reliability, this one was a cracker. It was also a very neat design, which worked superbly as either a saloon or ‘Touring’ estate.


There was no shortage of options for this model, which opened with the four-cylinder 518i (it means 1.8-litre injection), went on through small-block sixes (520i and 525i) to big-block sixes (530i, 535i), all the way up to
V8s (later 530i, 540i). There were also some damn good six-cylinder turbodiesels (525td and intercooled 525tds). These were practical everyday saloons that were also entertaining to drive in bigger-engined form. Buy one now and marvel at what BMW achieved nearly a quarter of a century ago.

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

There’s not much that goes wrong with an E34’s bodywork, although you will probably find stonechips around the nose. If they have already rusted, the car hasn’t been looked
after carefully. Blocked drain holes allow water to collect in the door bottoms, and eventually this becomes a problem.
Otherwise, rust is practically non-existent. If you do find some, suspect an accident repair done on the cheap. There are plenty of E34s around, so avoid any seriously rusty examples, except maybe as a source of spares.
Peculiar to Britain were the 525i Sport models, with an M Technic bodykit of sills, spoilers and aprons (along with lowered suspension, sports seats, and other extras). These were attractively priced, and were often bought by people who wanted a bigger-engined E34 but couldn’t afford it. Lots of them were used very hard, so take appropriate caution when viewing one.

ENGINE

Engines were always BMW’s great strength, but we’d recommend a six or a V8. Interesting cars start with the 525i and upwards. All engines (even the diesels) are astonishingly smooth and refined when in tip-top condition. Look out, though: the rip-roaring 535i attracted the drive-it-into-the-ground brigade and many have been thrashed. Head gaskets and water pumps are weaknesses on these big sixes, so check the service history and look for overheating and roughness.
The early small sixes (520i and 525i) had belt-driven camshafts, and the belts need changing about every 30,000 miles. Like the bigger sixes, these cars are also prone to water pump problems, so check the service history. Later four-valve cars have chain-driven camshafts.
In Britain, the early V8s got a bad reputation when the high sulphur content of our petrol wore the Nikasil bore linings prematurely. BMW changed a lot of engines under warranty, and later V8s have Alusil linings which don’t suffer the same way. Bore wear isn’t a particular problem today.

RUNNING GEAR

Typically, a bigger-engined E34 will have a four-speed ZF automatic with lock-up top gear (which reduces slip and fuel wastage). These transmissions have an excellent reputation, but when worn will slip on upchanges. Later variants had improved internals to deal with this weakness, and exchange gearboxes are readily available from specialists – mostly re-built with the improved components. The V8s have five-speed overdrive autos, which are fairly bullet-proof.
Check the brake discs for any signs of wear or scoring, especially on the bigger-engined cars, which tended to get used harder. The front suspension deserves very close examination. Worn ball-joints cause the steering to feel sloppy, but imprecise steering feel may also result from worn bushes; front-end shimmy under braking will confirm that’s the problem. Note that the later bushes are longer-lived than the originals, with which they are fully interchangeable. Bushes can wear at the back end, too, and you’ll know it’s time for replacements if you can hear a knocking noise on either acceleration or deceleration. 
Rare and complex – but highly desirable – is the 525iX model, with rear-biased, computer-controlled four-wheel drive. Check that it all works properly.

INTERIOR

You won’t get many creaks and rattles from the dash of an E34. However, there’s
a lot of sophisticated equipment – automatic temperature regulation, the Electronic Check Control malfunction warning system, and Service Indicator lights – and it’s not completely bulletproof. The Service Indicator lights can play up, and if the diagnosis is a dead circuit board, owners tend to
go for the cheap option of disconnection. So check that the lights do function.
Seats and carpets are remarkably hard-wearing, 
so any evidence of problems here should sound alarm bells. Is the mileage really as low as the odometer suggests?
Many E34s had a sliding sunroof, and the operating mechanism can jam or break. Check that the central locking works correctly, especially on post-1991 models where the actuator can fail.
One final word of warning: there’s not as much room in the back of an E34 as you might imagine. As always, try before you buy.

 

OUR VERDICT
The E34 5 Series helped raise the game in the medium-saloon market and made BMW a serious threat to former acknowledged leader Mercedes-Benz. With good looks, four- (or five-) door practicality, excellent dynamics and superb engines (even the 1.8-litre four isn’t bad), these are simply marvellous cars which you can still use every day, as well as pamper like classics. As for parts and maintenance, you won’t have any worries – although you might find ownership costs of the bigger-engined models a bit of a choker.

BMW 5-SERIES E28 REVIEW

A stylish, practical cruiser that's getting increasingly rare...

 

The BMW E28 5 Series entered production in 1981 and continued for a further six years until December 1987, during which time over 720,000 cars were built. The entry level 518 was the only car in the range to feature a carburettored engine, and only then until 1984, whereas the rest sported both Motronic and Jetronic fuel injected units. The E28 replaced the aging E12, which had been in service since 1972 and had begun to look dated. Unlike its more basic predecessor, the E28 featured all mod cons including power windows, power seats and even a trip computer. As well as the range of standard cars, hot versions were added in the form of M5 and M535i.  

VITAL STATISTICS

E28 520i 1981

Engine                                    1991cc/DOHC/Inline 6

Power (bhp@rpm)                  123bhp@5800rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 125ft lb@4000rpm

Top speed                                115mph

0-60mph                                  9.7sec

Consumption                            23mpg

Gearbox                                    5-speed manual

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

The most important issue affecting the E28 is rust. After spending more than 20 years exposed to the British weather, many cars will now be suffering the effect of tinworm. The low value of many cars means it isn’t cost effective to continue to repair bodywork, so owners tend to adopt a ‘run it til it pops’ mentality. With this in mind, get the cleanest car you find. 

Use a magnet to check for filler behind the front and rear arches and sills. If you don’t have a magnet, use your eye – unless professionally done you should be able to spot bodged touch-ups. Sunroofs are prone to rust as water collects in the recesses, so give this area close scrutiny. Doors will also rust given time, so open them and closely inspect the bottom edge. 

Anywhere there are drainage holes there may be rust, and there’s no substitute for getting close and taking your time – you don’t want to be surprised when you get home. Open the boot and lift the rear carpet; pay particular attention to the rear shock mounts as these have a tendency to fail. Also, remove the spare tyre and check the floor beneath. Check the windscreen window seals for signs of cracking or shrinking, as well as rear light seals; if these leak, water will pour directly into the boot.  

 

ENGINE

 

Engines fitted to the E28 were mostly carried over from the E12, so it should be seen as more of a facelift than complete redesign. The M20 engine was fitted to the 520i and 525i, with the M30 being used for the 528i, 535i and M535i. Both variants are legendary in the motoring world as being almost indestructible, providing they are well cared for. All engines will require valve adjustments every 15,000 miles, but this can be done with little trouble by the home mechanic. Check the engine oil level to make sure it’s not too low. Be wary if the oil is either too dirty or too clean, both are signs that poor maintenance is being disguised. 

Start the engine from cold and allow it to warm up, check that the temperature levels-off nicely and that no blue smoke is emitted from the exhaust pipe. Injectors can be noisy on startup; this is normal. 20w/50 oil should be used, nothing thinner. Timing belts should be replaced every five years or 60,000 miles, so make sure this is done. If the water pump has never been replaced, budget for the work and get it done immediately. 

If you’re looking at an M5 then a different set of rules apply. The M5 uses the M88/3 engine, which is an altogether more complex beast than the M30 with much lower tolerances than the smaller engines. Pay to get the car properly inspected by a BMW independent specialist. Any problems with the M88/3 engine will be astronomical to repair, and most problems will be immediately apparent to a specialist.

 

RUNNING GEAR

As with the rest of the car the running gear is fairly solid, but it will be wearing out by now. It’s important that you take the car for a test drive through a variety of driving conditions so any problems become apparent. CV joints are a weak point but are cheap enough to replace, a good DIY job if you have the know-how. Rear subframe mounts will probably need replacing as well, but this is a garage job. Gearboxes have a reputation for durability, but parts to repair them are getting increasingly scarce.

Early cars use the ZF 3HP22 automatic gearbox, which is bombproof. Manual transmissions are as hard wearing as engines, so should be able to achieve the same astronomical mileages.  


INTERIOR

E28 electrics are more reliable than their contemporaries, but by now will be starting to suffer. If the power windows don’t work the first place to look is the switches. Muck and grime build up and interfere with the contacts, so this can often be sorted with 20 minutes. ECUs can fail if soldering breaks down, which is a garage job. On the other hand, power seats are known to fail and are a DIY job.

 Interiors are of high quality and are hard wearing, but in high mileage cars will be on the way out. Don’t be put off by grubby seats; it’s amazing what a bit of leather cleaner can do. As always, the M5 is a different story. M5 leather interiors are rare and pricey. The seat frames also have a tendency to crack, while with textile seats make sure there is no significant wear to the bolsters. Check that the dashboard isn’t cracked, as a replacement will be hard to find and costly to fit.

 

OUR VERDICT

They’re cheap to buy and almost as cheap to maintain if you’re on a budget. Clean low spec examples are still easy to find, and most have been cosseted by elderly owners. Low mileage mint cars come up with surprising regularity, but most are snapped-up quickly by dealers looking to charge silly sums. It pays to buy the best example you can afford, as it’s easy to sink a small fortune into correcting bodywork. They’re becoming increasingly rare in scrap yards. You can’t go far wrong with any but make sure you pay for a proper inspection if you’re looking at an M5.

And don’t forget that all parts are available through BMW Park Lane Classic as well as through specialists. 

BMW E34 5-SERIES REVIEW

Quick, solid and reliable, BMW’s E34 5 Series was a stunning statement of the German car maker’s abilities. It’s a vehicle that was coveted worldwide during the 1990s...
 

BMW’s third generation 5 Series was the E34, in production from 1988 to 1995. Though earlier BMWs suffered from dubious reliability, this one was a cracker. It was also a very neat design, which worked superbly as either a saloon or ‘Touring’ estate.

There was no shortage of options for this model, which opened with the four-cylinder 518i (it means 1.8-litre injection), went on through small-block sixes (520i and 525i) to big-block sixes (530i, 535i), all the way up to V8s (later 530i, 540i). There were also some
damn good six-cylinder turbodiesels (525td and intercooled 525tds).

These were practical everyday saloons that were also entertaining to drive in bigger-engined form. Buy one now and marvel at what BMW achieved.  

VITAL STATISTICS

BMW 535i

Engine                                    3430cc/6-cyl/SOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  211bhp@5700rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 220lb ft@4000rpm

Top speed                                139mph

0-60mph                                  7.9sec

Consumption                            23mpg

Gearbox                                    4-speed automatic

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

There’s not much that goes wrong with an E34’s bodywork, although you will probably find stonechips around the nose. If they have already rusted, the car hasn’t been looked
after carefully. Blocked drain holes allow water to collect in the door bottoms, and eventually this becomes a problem.

Otherwise, rust is practically non-existent. If you do find some, suspect an accident repair done on the cheap. There are plenty of E34s around, so avoid any seriously rusty examples, except maybe as a source of spares.

Peculiar to Britain were the 525i Sport models, with an M Technic bodykit of sills, spoilers and aprons (along with lowered suspension, sports seats, and other extras). These were attractively priced, and were often bought by people who wanted a bigger-engined E34 but couldn’t afford it. Lots of them were used very hard, so take appropriate caution when viewing one.

ENGINE

Engines were always BMW’s great strength, but we’d recommend a six or a V8. Interesting cars start with the 525i and upwards. All engines (even the diesels) are astonishingly smooth and refined when in tip-top condition. Look out, though: the rip-roaring 535i attracted the drive-it-into-the-ground brigade and many have been thrashed. Head gaskets and water pumps are weaknesses on these big sixes, so check the service history and look for overheating and roughness.

The early small sixes (520i and 525i) had belt-driven camshafts, and the belts need changing about every 30,000 miles. Like the bigger sixes, these cars are also prone to water pump problems, so check the service history. Later four-valve cars have chain-driven camshafts.

In Britain, the early V8s got a bad reputation when the high sulphur content of our petrol wore the Nikasil bore linings prematurely. BMW changed a lot of engines under warranty, and later V8s have Alusil linings which don’t suffer the same way. Bore wear isn’t a particular problem today.

RUNNING GEAR

Typically, a bigger-engined E34 will have a four-speed ZF automatic with lock-up top gear (which reduces slip and fuel wastage). These transmissions have an excellent reputation, but when worn will slip on upchanges. Later variants had improved internals to deal with this weakness, and exchange gearboxes are readily available from specialists – mostly re-built with the improved components. The V8s have five-speed overdrive autos, which are fairly bullet-proof.

Check the brake discs for any signs of wear or scoring, especially on the bigger-engined cars, which tended to get used harder. The front suspension deserves very close examination. Worn ball-joints cause the steering to feel sloppy, but imprecise steering feel may also result from worn bushes; front-end shimmy under braking will confirm that’s the problem. Note that the later bushes are longer-lived than the originals, with which they are fully interchangeable. Bushes can wear at the back end, too, and you’ll know it’s time for replacements if you can hear a knocking noise on either acceleration or deceleration. 

Rare and complex – but highly desirable – is the 525iX model, with rear-biased, computer-controlled four-wheel drive. Check that it all works properly.


INTERIOR

You won’t get many creaks and rattles from the dash of an E34. However, there’s
a lot of sophisticated equipment – automatic temperature regulation, the Electronic Check Control malfunction warning system, and Service Indicator lights – and it’s not completely bulletproof. The Service Indicator lights can play up, and if the diagnosis is a dead circuit board, owners tend to go for the cheap option of disconnection. So check that the lights do function.

Seats and carpets are remarkably hard-wearing, so any evidence of problems here should sound alarm bells. Is the mileage really as low as the odometer suggests?

Many E34s had a sliding sunroof, and the operating mechanism can jam or break. Check that the central locking works correctly, especially on post-1991 models where the actuator can fail.

One final word of warning: there’s not as much room in the back of an E34 as you might imagine. As always, try before you buy.

OUR VERDICT

The E34 5 series helped raise the game in the medium-saloon market and made BMW a serious threat to former acknowledged leader Mercedes-Benz. With good looks, four- (or five-) door practicality, excellent dynamics and superb engines (even the 1.8-litre four isn't bad), these are simply marvellous cars which you can still use every day, as well as pamper like classics. As for parts and maintenance, you won't have any worries - although you might find ownership costs of the bigger-engined models a bit of a choker.