ROVER 200 COUPE/CABRIOLET REVIEW
Rover introduced the ‘Tomcat’ in October 1992 in 109bhp 1.6, 136bhp 2.0 or 198bhp 2.0 turbo forms. Unsurprisingly, the latter is the most collectible – in reality, the normally aspirated cars aren’t that sought after, as they’re a bit weedy, although they’re cheaper to run. However, the Rover Coupé’s chassis struggles to rein in the power of the turbocharged 2.0-litre, which is why a decent compromise is the 1.8 VVC-engined car that arrived in March 1996. With 143bhp it’s decently quick but it doesn’t shred its tyres every time you try to overtake someone.
All cars were facelifted in November 1993, with the addition of a grille and side impact bars – at the same time all cars gained airbags and seat belt pre-tensioners. These facelifted cars are by far the most common, simply because they represent the biggest part of Coupé production.
VITAL STATISTICS
Engine 1994cc/4-cyl/DOHC
Power 197bhp@6100rpm
Torque 171lb ft@2100rpm
Top Speed 146mph
0-60mph 7.1sec
Gearbox 5-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK
Corrosion and crash damage can be a problem – even cherished cars can have rust in the sills, door bottoms, wheelarches and the leading edge of the windscreen, plus the rear wings.
If the bumpers are misaligned, the car has probably been pranged. To check the bodyshell’s integrity, look at the boot floor from underneath, the rear light surrounds from inside the boot and the rearmost pillars. If any of these are out of shape, walk away.
Watch for leaks into the cabin, as all Coupés came with removable roof panels as standard. The seals around their handles aren’t always that effective, but some silicone sealant normally does the trick.
Finally, check the boot isn’t full of water. Spare wheel wells get waterlogged through rear light seals failing, boot vents leaking or water getting past the fixing holes for the rear window trim.
ENGINES
The Coupé featured three different four-cylinder engines; the Honda D-Series in 1.6-litre SOHC form (a DOHC version of this was offered in other European markets), the Rover K-Series in 1.6 or 1.8 VVC guises, or the Rover T-Series in 2.0-litre form, either naturally aspirated or turbocharged.
The D-Series powerplant is tough, but the head gasket can blow, so check for mayonnaise on the underside of the oil filler cap. As long as the oil is changed every 4000 miles, these engines last 150,000 miles or more, although distributor caps can crack, so listen for misfiring.
Offered in 1.6 or 1.8 VVC forms, the K-Series engine’s faults are well known, the key one being a tendency to blow head gaskets. Look for evidence of problems as a wrecked engine can render a Coupé worthless.
The K-Series engine also needs a replacement cambelt every 60,000 miles or five years. This engine’s tappets are hydraulic, so if they’re rattly after the initial start up, it may be the head needs a rebuild at £500+.
The fruitiest engine is the T-Series, in normally aspirated or turbocharged guises. Often thrashed, these engines are tough enough if the oil and filter have been changed every 6000 miles. Listen for top-end rattling, suggesting a head rebuild is due – although it could just be that the exhaust manifold gasket needs replacing. When this is done, you must use a genuine fire ring gasket (ie a metal one, not just a foil-wrapped card item), or it won’t last long.
TRANSMISSION
Start the engine and let it tick over in neutral. Press the clutch; if things get noisy, the clutch release bearing needs replacing. A new one is £30. If things get noisier as you release the clutch pedal, the gearbox bearings are badly worn – a decent used unit costs £50-300.
On the move, the gear change should be light and precise, although the clutch can be heavy. Any rumbling or whining means a gearbox rebuild is on the cards. If the gears are hard to find, the linkage needs adjusting, but new replacements aren’t available.
Turbo Coupés had a limited-slip diff as standard, but these could be damaged by worn bearings. These have a rather feeble plastic cage, but stronger metal-caged bearings are available. The gearbox identification sticker should start K7BX, K7BSUT or K4BX, but it’s possible to rebuild an LSD with non-LSD parts; don’t assume the car is as it was built.
STEERING, SUSPENSION & BRAKES
All Coupés have power-assisted steering, so check the fluid is up to the mark, as leaks are common. Pumps can also prove short-lived, so listen for whining as you turn between locks; replacements are £250-500.
The main issue with the Coupé’s suspension and braking system is that of wear. Sagging springs, worn trailing arm bushes and tired dampers are common. Brakes are especially prone to wear, so feel for juddering through the brake pedal as you slow down, signifying warped discs.
You should also feel for vibration under acceleration, suggesting that the lower ball joints, wheel bearings or track rod ends are past their best. It might also mean that the wheels need balancing; if that’s the case, make sure none of them have been kerbed heavily, throwing the tracking out.
Most enthusiast-owned Coupés have uprated brakes and suspension; the former because the standard anchors are marginal, the latter for less maintenance. The easiest suspension upgrade entails fitting polyurethane bushes, as the rubber items fitted on the production line tend to perish and split, especially the rear lower arm bushes, which generally only last 30,000-40,000 miles.
INTERIOR AND ELECTRICS
Half or full-leather trim is common, but the cloth otherwise fitted is durable, although the driver’s seat bolsters tend to wear. New parts aren’t available, but you might find some decent used trim – don’t count on it though.
Many Coupés have had their interiors butchered to fit aftermarket stereos and security systems. Clearly there are potential issues with the quality of any work undertaken; if the rear trim panels are loose they’ve been removed and their retaining clips haven’t been renewed. Because they’re not reusable, they have to be replaced each time – but they’re available and very cheap, so it isn’t the end of the world.
The electrical system is usually reasonably reliable, but the door-operated light switches fail along with the number plate light – the latter, usually because the wiring stress-cracks where it goes into the boot lid.
VERDICT
The Coupé makes a great usable classic buy, as long as you can find a good one. These cars are firmly in banger terroritory, which is why many have been snapped up merely as cheap transport. There are plenty of well cared for examples out there too though; buy a low-mileage high-spec Turbo while you can, and you’re guaranteed a sure-fire investment that’s also going to provide plenty of fun every time you take it out of the garage. There’s already a huge club scene too.
CLASSIC CAR REVIEWS - ROVER MINI COOPER
There are lots of Mini Coopers out there and a mind boggling selection of late Rover Mini models bearing the Cooper name.
The final 10 years of Mini production had more development cash spent than the previous two decades. Changes in bodyshell allowed Rover and then BMW to keep the car compliant with the latest legislation changes, and offer a little bit more in the way of luxury appointments. Here is a selection of some of the later Rover Mini-Coopers.
RSP Rover Mini Cooper
June-October 1990
UK market ‘RSP’ Coopers were only built between June-October 1990 and used the MkVI bodyshell with revised engine mounting. You can spot them apart from mainstream Coopers because they have no ‘Mini Cooper’ badge on the boot, but a circular ‘Cooper’ decal. The ‘John Cooper’ signature was featured on the bonnet, reversed out of the white stripes. Two-tone paint was standard, but the door mirrors and wheel arches are colour coded to the body. A glass sunroof was a standard fitment and tinted glass was always fitted. Inside the seats have black leather facings with
black ‘lightning’ fabric inserts, and a Cooper logo sewn into the seat uprights. Burgundy red carpets are fitted, along with the triple instrument pack in front of the driver with a 110mph speedo.
Mainstream Rover Mini Cooper
June 1990- September 1991
These more mainstream models ran longer than the RSP Cooper special edition, starting at the same June 1990 date but on the Longbridge lines until September 1991. You can spot a mainstream Cooper by it having no bonnet decals (as standard, remember, many were fitted aftermarket). The door mirrors are colour coded to the roof rather than the body, and the wheel arch extensions are black self-coloured plastic. No driving lights were fitted as standard, whereas RSP Coopers had a pair, and the eagleeyed will observe that mainstream Coopers were only ever fitted with sealed-beam headlamps. Glass is non-tinted and no sunroof was fitted.
Inside, the seats have black vinyl facings with ‘Crayons’ cloth, and the carpets are black. The steering wheel is bound in black leather.
The engine is the same as the RSP, but has no oil cooler and the electric fan is bolted onto the inner wing, with its wiring harness incorporated into the rest of the loom, unlike the RSP which features a separate harness for the fan. The air intake motif featured the Mini Cooper bonnet badge logo embossed on it, which the RSP does not.
Rover Mini Cooper 1.3i
from September 1991
The big news for 1991 was the introduction of fuel injection. The 1275 A+ motor was a derivative of the MG Metro unit with ‘SPI’ in Rover parlance, or single point injection with a closedloop 3-way cat. Ignition was electronic, and the car had an oil cooler and twin electric cooling fans. Basically it looked the same as the mainstream Cooper, except it placed the winged chromed Mini Cooper badge on the bootlid and had a chrome 1.3i badge also on the boot. Inside was the same as the RSP Cooper, except the Lightning seat fabric extended to the edge of the chairs, and an R652 stereo radio/cassette player was fitted.
Rover Mini Cooper Si
from 1995
With the resurgence of the Mini name, and an increased interest on the part of new owner of the brand, BMW in ensuring a healthy future for its still-secret MINI, the new-for-96 Si featured the first sight of the latest bodyshell for the original Mini, the Mk VII. The options list expanded, and the full-width dashboard gained potentially a walnut-style dashboard and cream faced instruments.
ROVER P4 REVIEW
There’s something wonderfully ‘right’ about a good P4. There’s a crisp, ‘engineered’ feel that works well with all the wood and leather, while clambering aboard is an experience, with those suicide rear doors adding excitement for passengers.
The six-cylinder models get all of the glory, but there’s not a lot wrong with the four-cylinder engines – both of which saw use in Land Rovers. While no racing machine, a P4 is easily capable of holding its own on a motorway. The high seating position and enormous steering wheel combine to make you feel king of the road, while the delicious, exposed gear linkage is sheer delight to use. The later servo-assisted brakes give a lot more stopping power, though they still need a fairly good shove.
The handling was never anything to get too excited about, but then this isn’t a car to push hard. If you insist, the nose will soon push wide and unsettling bodyroll sets ins. That said, avoid over-harsh cornering efforts and the P4 can barrel along a twisty B-road at a fair speed. The steering is direct and should feel very accurate, just don’t expect to hurtle around roundabouts like a Mini.
Better to think back to times gone by, when rushing around simply wasn’t the done thing. Settle back for the cruise and the comfort and refinement will take your mind away from such worries as time. Noise levels are surprisingly low, with a delicious first-gear whine from the transmission just adding to the joy of it all.
The 75, 90, 95, 100 and 110 are all six-cylinder powered, with power ranging from 72 to 123bhp. The 60 and 80 are the four-cylinder options, and while they’re down on power, they feel a touch lighter in the steering to compensate.
VITAL STATISTICS
Rover 100
Engine 2625cc/6-cyl/OHV/Bosch injection
Power (bhp@rpm) 104bhp@4750rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 138lb ft@1500rpm
Top speed 95mph
0-60mph 18sec
Consumption 20mpg
Gearbox 4-spd manual overdrive
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
Bodywork checks are absolutely key, as restoration can quickly get prohibitively expensive. Repair sections are available for the indicator area, and around the headlamps. Glassfibre wings are available, but purists aren’t keen. Check all the brightwork carefully as some of it is Mazak, which pits badly with age.
Sills are a common rot spot and it can spread into the floors. Doors are usually aluminium, though they were steel on later cars. Both can oxidise. A-posts can corrode, and the door will then drop as it is opened. Rot is also possible at the base of the front wing. Interiors are plush and very expensive to overhaul. Water ingress is an issue, thanks to tired window seals. If it has leaked in, it often pools in the passenger footwell. Well-cared for leather should be soft and pliable to the touch.
Corrosion can strike the chassis, especially where it rises up above the rear axle. It’s very difficult to check with the car at ground level, so you either need to remove the rear wheels, or talk a garage into letting you borrow their hoist. Repairs are possible, but need to be done well to prevent further trouble. Rot affects the rear wings, especially the lower edges and across the rear valance. Open the boot and check again for water ingress and crunchiness. Be very wary if the boot will not stay open. It is cantilevered, but the mounts can suffer from rot.
ENGINE
Various engines were fitted, with six-cylinders most popular. Rebuild parts can be very expensive, even for the four-cylinder engine. If regular oil changes are not adhered to, camshaft wear can occur and replacement is the only cure. If clouds of blue smoke appear after a long period idling, head work will be needed. Low oil pressure suggests a general overhaul is needed and may cause blue smoke to appear continuously. Exhaust manifolds can crack, so listen out for a chuffing noise. Overheating can be an issue with a neglected engine too, as ancient coolant can silt up the radiator and/or block.
RUNNING GEAR
The gearbox is generally robust, but removing it is a pain as the interior needs to be stripped to allow access. Watch for failing synchromesh, especially on second – thought this gear was only so equipped from 1952. First gear has no synchromesh and will always whine. If overdrive was fitted, the quirky freewheel was not. The overdrive won’t engage below 50mph and should, in theory, kick-down from overdrive if the throttle is floored. The two-pedal Roverdrive can be troublesome if parts are needed, though it’s quite reliable. Only 3540 were made with this ’box.
BRAKES
Many P4s have now escaped the need for an MoT (cars built after 1960 still need one), so be vigilant. Rot can strike around the steering box idler mountings, as well as the front outriggers. Wear in the suspension top bush will cause uneven tyre wear and clonks, while kingpins can naturally wear – these should be lubricated with heavy oil, not grease. The steering should not be vague. Radial tyres can make the steering exceedingly heavy, but offer benefits once under way, though supply is tricky at the moment.
Rear axles are very hardy and rarely give trouble. Do make sure the handbrake works though. The mechanism often seizes up and people assume they were always rubbish. They weren’t. Incidentally, check the condition of the hubcaps. Replacements are not cheap. The rear leaf springs can sag with age. Retempering or replacement are the only cure. The nose-high stance isn’t helped by front springs actually getting harder with age. Have a quick glance at the brake back plates if you can. If the outer driveshaft seals have worn, the brakes can get contaminated.
OUR VERDICT
There is a surprisingly wide variety in the P4 range. The six-cylinder 100 is most abundant, and remains a great buy. Don’t rule out an 80 though. Engine spares certainly aren’t an issue, thanks to the use in Land Rovers until the 1980s. Whichever you opt for, the P4 remains a wonderful driver’s classic.
ROVER P5B REVIEW
A quintessentially British luxury saloon, the Rover P5B is well worth a closer look.
The P5B is all about one thing and that’s comfort. It starts with a luxurious and well-appointed cabin that is a fine place to while away the miles; this is a car that can cover long distances without putting any strain on the driver or passengers. Settled into the comfy leather chairs and with a light grip on the thin-rimmed wheel, you’re all ready to enjoy everything the stylish Rover has to offer. Finger-light steering and a cosseting ride make covering big miles a relaxing affair, and while B-road heroics are strictly off the menu, this is exactly what you’d expect from this fine British car. The P5B is no sluggard, though, despite a hefty kerb weight – the smooth, torquey V8 engine is more than capable of providing a decent turn of pace, although making the most of that performance will come at the expense of eye-watering fuel consumption. Stopping is no problem either, as the brakes respond strongly to the lightest of pedal pressure, and are more inspiring than the slightly lacklustre steering. A wonderful way to travel, though.
VITAL STATISTICS
Rover P5B
Engine 3528cc/V8/OHV
Power (bhp@rpm) 160bhp@5200rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 226lb ft@3000rpm
Top speed 110mph
0-60mph 10.7sec
Consumption 17.2mpg
Gearbox 4-spd manual/4-spd auto opt.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
The Rover V8 is a tough unit and easily capable of 150,000 miles or more. Regular changes of oil and antifreeze are the key, but also check for signs of overheating that could lead to head gasket failure. Radiators will fur-up and leak over time, so a bill for a replacement is a good sign. Oil leaks from the engine block and gearbox can be a niggle but are often caused by blockeded breathers, so check there first. Early cars were fitted with a low-volume oil pump, so fitting one from the Rover SD1 engine is a useful mod. Ticking from the camshafts and hydraulic tappets when the engine is warm mean a top-end re-build is probably overdue. Listen for leaks from the exhaust manifold as securing nuts can work loose. Auto chokes can give trouble so manual conversions are common. Listen for pinking as these engines should run on Five Star petrol.
The complex three-piece sills can rot badly (particularly around the jacking points) so it pays to dig deeper even if things appear fine, and you should also check the front and rear inner wings and the boot floor. Pay close attention to wheelarches, door bottoms and the rear valance, as well as the door pillars. The base of the D-pillar can rot where it meets the rear wheelarch, so check around the end of the sill/kickplate with the door open. Inspect for even panel gaps and ensure the doors don’t sag when open. Bubbling under the front and rear screen rubbers is bad news as rot is costly to repair.
RUNNING GEAR
An automatic gearbox was standard on the P5B – Borg Warner DG on early models, BW 35 later on – and both are reliable as long as they aren’t abused. Blackened or burnt-smelling fluid suggests potential problems. Rear axles are considered bombproof, so any issues will be apparent on a test drive, as will a vibration caused by a worn propshaft centre bearing – the latter is a cheap fix, though.
The rest of the running gear is fairly straightforward and unlikely to cause problems if well maintained. Look out for worn shock absorbers and sagging rear leaf springs, along with any rot around the mountings for the front torsion bar springs. Little-used examples could be in need of a brake overhaul so check for corroded brake pipes or seized handbrake mechanisms. The power steering system is prone to leaks from seals or the steering box; some owners fit an uprated box that is available from specialists. The Rostyle wheels are specific to the P5B so ensure these are still fitted – they can be refurbished at a reasonable cost if need be.
BRAKES
If we haven’t put you off already, there’s one more hidden area to examine for corrosion. This is the ledge on the bulkhead that supports the brake servo. Debris accumulates here and, especially if combined with leaking brake fluid, can cause the metal underneath to rot through.
INTERIOR
The cabin of a P5B needs to be in good condition if an expensive resto is to be avoided. Rover used high quality leather, carpets and wood veneers so check for wear and tear or any water damage. Also check that the instruments are working correctly – the window winders on coupés are a notorious weak point.
OUR VERDICT
This is old-school British luxury as its very best, and should feature on the list of any buyer looking for a comfortable and stylish classic. Whether you pick the saloon or the coupé, the lovely interior and woofling V8 engine are the stars here, but as with any car of this age you do need to buy carefully. Condition is everything with the P5B and returning a restoration case to its former glory can easily soak up huge amounts of cash, so enlisting the help of a specialist to help you find the right car is a sensible move.
CLASSIC CAR REVIEWS - ROVER P5
If you're looking for a classic that sums up everything that's great about Britain, nothing can match that mobile drawing room, the Rover P5. Luxurious, solidly built, usable and brilliantly supported by a network of specialists plus a superb club, the P5 is one of those classics that makes sense on pretty much every level. Even the Queen owns one, and apparently she prefers drtiving it to being ferried about in one of her many Rolls-Royces. Of course, the marque from Crewe is another bastion of Britishness, but if it had never existed it's likely that in the Sixties the P5 would have assumed the mantle of 'best car in the world'. Admittedly, Mercedes was creating some impressive machines at that time, but when it came to luxury, power, ambience and presence, nothing could carry it off like the Rover - especially when the price tag was taken into consideration. Four decades on, nothing has changed. The P5 still has all those qualities that make it so achingly desirable, yet the relative costs are even lower.
Rover ploughed plenty of cash into its upmarket offering to replace the P4. The P5 arrived in 1958 and was available first with a silkysmooth six-cylinder engine, before receiving an injection of V8 power in 1967. The big Rover was always a car beloved of traditionalists and remains so to this day.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODY & CHASSIS
Poor repairs are common because the P5’s structure is large and complex. But it it’s also strong, so serious structural corrosion is rare. These cars have a basic monocoque onto which the outer panels bolt, making it easy to disguise an unsound car with fresh panels. Check the three-piece sills as they’re crucial to the car’s strength, but are prone to rot. Rotten original sills are less of a concern than badly repaired ones. Uneven panel gaps result from new panels being welded into place when the bodyshell is twisted.
Check the A-posts, outer rear wheelarches and base of each D-post. The outer panels are reasonably durable, but significant corrosion in the latter area requires removal of the rear wing, which is where costs quickly mount.The chassis legs can rot, especially around the leaf-spring mountings, as can the rear inner wings. Poking around behind the boot trim will give you a good idea of the state of the metal below. While you’re at it, examine all the metalwork at the back of the car, paying most attention to the valance.
Corrosion in the nose of the car won’t affect its structural integrity, but not so for rot at the back of the front wheelarches. At this point, the bulkhead, sill and door post meet; there’s also a cavity where mud collects before corroding the metal. Add to this a multitude of drain holes, box sections and cavities, all of which can corrode badly, and there’s the potential for major expenditure. If left unchecked, such corrosion can spread into the bulkhead; at this point the car is fit for parts only, but it may be passed off as one that merely needs minor attention.
The front subframe is unlikely to give problems, but it’s worth checking for corrosion around the torsion bar mounts anyway. Repairs are easy enough, but only once the subframe has been removed.
Door bottoms also warrant close inspection; it’s usually easier and cheaper to fit decent used panels if the originals are shot. The original hinges must be retained though, as they were fettled to attain correct panel gaps.
If you’re looking for a classic from which you can really get some use, a P5 makes a lot of sense. Where most people assume a classic will only be for occasional use, the P5 isn’t like that. Stylish and well-engineered, it’s so capable that it can be considered as an alternative to a modern, thanks to its refinement, pace and build-quality.
ENGINE
The 3-Litre’s powerplant was a bored-out version of the P4’s 2.6-litre unit, and like a well-maintained V8, it should be good for at least 200,000 miles between rebuilds. A neglected six-cylinder engine wears prematurely, with cylinder and valve guide wear in evidence.
A neglected six-cylinder engine wears prematurely, with cylinder and valve guide wear in evidence. That means oil being burned when the engine is started, and under acceleration – so look for blue smoke from the exhaust. Cam followers also get vocal once the mileage is high; the top end noise will be obvious but it’s easy and cheap to put right. It’s the same for the whole engine, which is straightforward and relatively cheap to rebuild; if in doubt, a decent used unit can be sourced for £250 from a specialist such as David Green.
The six-cylinder engine is known for its smoothness and abundance of torque. Don’t be alarmed if the oil pressure warning light flickers at idle – they all do that. It’s also quite common for there to be some blue smoke from the exhaust, while a pint of oil may be needed every 200- 300 miles without cause for concern. Make sure the engine mixture isn’t set too lean, as this can harm fuel consumption and cause a valve to burn out – uneven idling could point to this already having happened.
Like the six-pot motor, the Buick-sourced V8 is a hardy old lump, but runs at a much lower oil pressure than most of us will be used to – once again, an oil light that flickers on and off isn’t necessarily a cause for alarm. Find out whether good quality oil has been used regularly, otherwise the hydraulic tappets won’t operate correctly and the camshaft will also wear down its lobes prematurely.
It’s important the engine breathers on the rocker boxes have been kept clean, otherwise oil leaks will spring forth. Ascertain when the head gasket was changed, as its imperative a high-quality replacement has been used. On each head, some experts only tighten the outer four cylinderhead bolts to half the recommended torque, using thread-locking compound to keep them in place – this prevents the heads from tipping on the block. The tightness of the exhaust manifold nuts need checking, as they can work loose and leak, producing a tell-tale ticking. Don’t be surprised if the automatic choke doesn’t work – manual conversions or electrical over-rides are common. All P5Bs and some P5s were fitted with power steering, so make sure it’s working.
As with any alloy engine, it’s essential that a decent quality anti-freeze is used, and that it’s kept up to strength. Check that the engine doesn’t overheat when left idling – if it does, it may be because the radiator has got partially blocked by debris; a caring owner will have fitted a Kenlowe fan.
TRANSMISSION
The 3-Litre’s manual gearbox was carried over from the P4, and aside from worn synchromesh or bearings, there’s little to worry about. The former is given away by crunchy gear changes while the latter is betrayed by rumbling under load. Apart from a few early cars, all manual P5s have overdrive – make sure it cuts in smoothly as soon as it’s engaged.
All 3.5-litre cars have an automatic gearbox, but many 3-Litres have a stick-shift. Self-shifters featured a Borg Warner Type DG until 1965; later cars had a Type 35 unit. Despite the fact that the Type 35 can only just cope with the V8’s torque, there’s little to worry about. However, you must still ensure it swaps ratios smoothly and cleanly; as long as the transmission fluid has been changed periodically, all will be fine. It’s worth pulling out the dipstick to check the smell and colour of the fluid; it’s located at the rear of the engine, on the offside. Ensure the engine is running and warm; if the fluid smells of rotten eggs and is dark, it’s overheated and a rebuilt gearbox will be needed shortly, at £822 for an exchange unit.
Clutches and driveshafts are strong, but differentials leak and can run low on oil if left unchecked, but it’s unlikely to lead to a rebuild being needed. More likely is wear of the propshaft’s centre bearing (£20) or bushes (£25 per set) which wear, leading to vibration.
STEERING & SUSPENSION
All Coupés have power steering, but until late 1964 it was optional for the saloon. Set off in a P5B and you might think the tiller has been disconnected from the road wheels, the steering is so light – the system was never recalibrated for these later cars,. You get used to the lightness, but it’s initially disconcerting.
The assisted steering system tends to leak; the seals can weep and some castings are porous. The steering shouldn’t be left on full lock for more than 30 seconds at a time, to keep internal pressures down; ignoring this advice can lead to seals letting go. The best solution is a modified steering box, with better seals, available from JR Wadhams for £360.
While the P5’s rear suspension is conventional, the independent front set-up is unusual with its torsion bars. Problems are unlikely, except for sagging through old age. Any P5 with a droopy rear needs fresh leaf springs; if the gaiters have split, there may also be excessive wear of the leaves. Heavy duty replacement springs are £174 apiece.
More important than flat leaf springs are perished bushes for their rear mountings. They’re V-shaped and prone to disintegration; once this has taken place, you’ll see and feel the effects, which is why rapid replacement is essential.
The P5’s weight takes its toll on the shock absorbers, so do a bounce test at each corner to see how quickly the car settles; new dampers cost £60-70 apiece. Whether or not they need renewing, the front suspension bushes may be tired. Look for perishing of the rubber and feel for play in the damper mountings; if new bushes are required, they’re reasonably easy to fit and cost £67 for a full set.
WHEELS & BRAKES
All P5s came with pressed-steel wheels, which in the case of later models were of a Rostyle design. These can corrode all too readily – they’re finished in chrome-plated mild steel. Reviving them is tricky and a really good car can be let down by tatty wheels. Not many surviving wheels are in really good nick; if you can find a mint set you can pay up to £800 for all four.
The P5 is also one of those classics that owners never feel the need to fit alloys to, so there are no worries about clearance issues or having the wrong PCD.
The same goes for the braking system, which is utterly conventional. It’s a disc/drum set-up apart from the first year of production, which featured drums all round.
INTERIOR
That interior is fabulous when pristine, but can prove costly to revive if tatty. All the Wilton, wood and leather could cost up to £5,000 to revive professionally, so check everything closely for damage. Although the wood cappings are solid, the dash is veneered; the main dash is usually resilient, but the corners can delaminate because of water leaks.
If there’s any evidence that either of the windscreen seals need replacing, tread carefully. It’s a pig of a job, even for someone who knows what they’re doing – which is why you must ascertain who did the job if it’s already been done. Cars that haven’t been garaged may be suffering from leaks, so look for evidence of water ingress into the cabin, such as rotten carpeting or discoloured wood trim.
OUR VERDICT
Amazingly comfortable and easily capable of keeping up with modern traffic, the P5 offers ample space for a family and their luggage. Fuel consumption can be an issue, especially on P5Bs, so high-mileage drivers will need to beware. But parts are cheap, maintenance is easy and these cars are inherently tough and reliable.
If it was good enough for cabinet ministers, the P5 should be good enough for you. The age-old problem rears its ugly head once more though; where do you find a good one? If you’re aiming to keep the car for the long term, it’s probably worth paying a little over the odds to secure a minter or getting a car professionally restored; these cars may be undervalued, but you’ll ultimately get your money back unless you pay stupid sums.
You also need to work out which version you want. The obvious answer is a P5B Coupé; that’s what everyone is after. However, while this is the fastest and most stylish of the breed, V8 cars came only with an automatic gearbox, while the Coupé has a roof-line that’s two inches lower than the saloon. As a result, the back seat had to be lowered, so those in the back might feel claustrophobic on a long journey. Whatever you buy it’ll be surprisingly usable; it’s so well engineered, and hence so capable, that it’s a genuine alternative to a modern, thanks to its refinement, pace and build quality.
ROVER P6 REVIEW
Revolutionary when new, and still well respected today, Rover’s P6makes a practical and enjoyable classic.
Back in 1963, the Rover P6 epitomised quality and sophistication that rivals struggled to match. It was advanced, yet didn't scare buyers - in fact, it became Britain's favourite executive car during the 1960s and '70s. Choose between four-cylinder and V8, manual and auto, saloon and coachbuilt estate.
Rover was known as a maker of refined and staid cars for the professional classes until 1963. That was when its young engineers’ bright ideas were let out on an unsuspecting world in the Rover 2000. Base-unit construction with unstressed panels, all-round disc brakes, racing-type De Dion rear suspension, even a rallying programme… it all lowered the average age of a Rover buyer by 10 years. The four-cylinder 2000 became a 2200 in 1973, after being joined by the pocket-rocket V8-powered 3500 and the motorway police favourite, the manual-box 3500S. The last cars were built in 1977.
VITAL STATISTICS
Engine 1978cc/4-cyl/OHC
Power 89bhp@5000rpm
Torque 108lb ft@2500rpm
Top speed 104mph
0-60mph 14.7sec
Economy 25mpg
Gearbox 4-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK
The P6 is comprised of a skeletal base unit with bolt-on panels. Provided the underpinnings are sound, rust shouldn't be a major concern as repair/replacement is easy. Check the wing tops, door bottoms, and front wings around the sidelights for rust. Front inner wings are a crucial checkpoint too. Both the bonnet and bootlid are aluminium, and as such should be grot-free, but don't be surprised by lifting paint - especially round the steel washer nozzles on the bonnet. Check the rear inner door shuts and under the back seat. Rot in the floor here is bad news.
If the external sill covers are welded on, be ultra-vigilant, as you need to check the sills behind them.
ENGINE AND GEARBOX
P6 engines are either single/twin-carb 2.0- and 2.2- litre Heron-headed four-cylinder or all-aluminium ex-General Motors 3.5-litre V8. The manual 3500S V8 tends to be hard on gearboxes, prompting many owners to fit the five-speed LT77 gearbox from the Rover SD1. Four-cylinder engines are generally reliable, though rattly bearings are a known issue. Higher mileage manuals suffer gear selection issues regardless of the engine - both Borg Warner auto options are generally durable and a known quantity, V8s are quick but many feel the handling is not as composed as that of the four-cylinder models. Watch for low oil pressure with the V8 - 15psi at idle rising to 25psi under load is what you're looking for.
RUNNING GEAR
The brakes - discs all round - should provide strong stopping power, but owners sometimes neglect the rears as they're inboard. Check the handbrake adjustment - many have a near-vertical handbrake lever - and bear in mind that parts are not interchangeable between the pre-'66 Dunlop braking system and the post-'66 Girling set-up. Check the de Dion elbows at the rear - the back of the car can drop if these fracture. The rear springs sag, but are easily replaced, and check the front joints if the car knocks or bangs. Vague, heavy or 'tight' steering indicates an over-tightened steering box. Power steering is a popular upgrade.
INTERIOR AND ELECTRICS
Don't be worried about the condition of the 'wood'. Unless you have an early car, it's Formica and easily replaced. The earlier, flatter leather seats wear best 1971- '73 cars are prone to shrinkage and tearing. Cloth ages badly, but the 3500S's Ambla trim stays in good condition for longer. Dashboards can distort in the sun, and door cards often lift. Red leather is rare and unusual, but no more valuable. The Series II's fusebox is a known problem area - the operating temperature of some fuses is higher than the melting point of the fusebox plastic, leading to inevitable shorting out. Most P6s are fitted with an alternator, although a handful of pre- 1970 cars used a dynamo. Since this is prone to regulator failure, only sticklers for originality object to an alternator conversion on these cars.
OUR VERDICT
If you're looking for a technically audacious classic car that isn't a Citroen DS, then the Rover P6 is an obvious choice. It encapsulates establishment values, feels beautifully made and - with the possible exception of the sluggish 2000 auto - is more than capable of coping with the speeds of modern traffic. And yet, for all of its innovations, it won't break the bank to buy or run, although rarities such as the run-out VIP and FLM Panelcraft estate do command premiums.
Buy now while these cars are still (relatively) cheap. They are durable classics with family practicality, and running-costs are quite reasonable, though greater for the V8s than the four-cylinders. Like all "Rover Company" Rovers, they also have a great deal of charm.
ROVER SD1 REVIEW
As reviled early on as its predecessor was lauded, the Rover SD1 certainly caused a stir at its 1976 launch. With styling reputedly inspired by Ferrari’s 365 GTB/4 ‘Daytona’, the new car’s swooping hatchback shape and modular, blocky interior divide opinion. Ongoing build quality issues did it no favours, though it made a great – if rather unlikely – track and rally car.
VITAL STATISTICS
Rover SD1 2600
Engine 2597cc/6-cyl/OHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 136bhp@5000rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 152lb ft@3750rpm
Top speed 118mph
0-60mph 10.7sec
Consumption 22.4mpg
Gearbox 5-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
The SD1 suffered various quality-related issues early on, but chief among them was its propensity to leak. The bonded windscreen is a particular nuisance – and expensive to replace – but the rear screen is little better. Check the sunroof too – blocked drain holes will soon cause water ingress.
Elsewhere, sub-standard paintwork was an issue on early cars, but most will have been resprayed by now. Rust appears in all the usual places, but check in particular the boot floor and the area where the inner sill joins the inner rear wheelarch. Check the bulkhead, too – a leaky windscreen will instigate rampant rot here over time.
ENGINE
Some early 2300 and 2600 six-cylinder models suffered from premature wear to their camshafts if oil changes were not rigorously adhered to – an inherent design flaw meant the camshaft oilways got easily blocked, starving the cam of oil and causing the timing belt to fail. Cars with patchy history are more likely to demonstrate a noisy top end, but diesels that are reluctant to start likely just need new glow plugs. V8s should be checked for low oil pressure, cam wear, smoky exhausts and hot running – as the range-topping high performance model, they tend to get thrashed more than other SD1s. Be wary of pricey Vitesses listed as a ‘Twin Plenum’ car. They are rare and only an expert eye can distinguish between a TP and a standard car.
RUNNING GEAR
Manuals are generally tougher than autos, but excessive noise and crunchy shifts – especially from third to second – means the synchromesh is on its way out. Listen for whining bearings, too – replacement with a recon unit is the most cost-effective solution. Autos suit the V8 well, but a failed starter inhibitor switch on later cars will either cause it to stall when ‘drive’ is selected, or actually prevent it from starting.
Excessive oil from the back of the car points to a failing axle (the leak will be coming from the differential). Loud noises from the front suspension when turning from lock to lock are usually down to worn lower balljoints (although the rack itself is known to fail), while errant handling means the rear axle bushes are probably done for.
A sub-standard hard ride on cars with self-levelling rear suspension means the rare Boge Nivomat shock absorbers have likely failed. Reconditioned or NOS replacements rarely come up for sale, and can command up to £600.
INTERIOR
The instrument binnacle surround is known for warping and/or cracking and droopy headlinings are common – and tricky to repair or replace. Minor trim and switchgear is getting hard to source, especially on earlier cars, so common failings such as a rattly steering column or broken choke pull can be frustratingly difficult to sort out. Electrics are notoriously hit and miss, with non-functioning windows, sunroof and central locking chief among the culprits.
OUR VERDICT
All Rover SD1s are elegant, spacious and – in 2600 and V8 guise at least – potent long-distance cruisers. Everyone wants a V8 Vanden Plas or Vitesse, but the 2600 is actually the better bet, offering similar performance but with much more palatable fuel economy.
ROVER 800 REVIEW
The Rover 800 is a roomy, swift and stylish luxury cruiser. We explain why buying the right one can be a rewarding classic experience
Launched in 1986, the 800 was facelifted heavily in 1991 to become the Mk2 before it finally went out of production in 1998. The advent of the chrome grille, and bulbous new body panels were a partially-successful attempt to bulk up the 800’s appeal. The two-door coupé was a stylish addition that may have failed as a range flagship for Rover (exports to the USA, potentially its biggest market, had ceased the previous year), but today it’s a stylish classic that really does combine grace, pace and space.
VITAL STATISTICS
1995 Rover 800 Vitesse Sport Coupe
Engine 1994cc/4-cyl/DOHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 197bhp@5500rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 184lb ft@4400rpm
Top speed 140mph
0-60mph 7.5sec
Consumption 30mpg
Gearbox 5-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
The earlier the car, the less well protected it is, so the combination of age and poor rustproofing means that you need to check the front and rear wheelarches, sunroof aperture and mechanism, and inner and outer sills. You can still buy sill assemblies new, although as it’s a simple structure, most people will choose to repair, rather than replace. Another Mk2 foible is that it will rust merrily away behind the rear lamp clusters – you won’t be aware there’s anything amiss until a blister starts to appear at the edge of the inner rear lights – at that point it’s too late.
ENGINE
Despite Rover’s reputation for producing fragile four-pots, all of the in-house options are capable sloggers. The eight-valve O-Series engine fitted to the 820 fastback (rare now) won’t cause many problems, but it does have a tendency, along with the 16-valve M16 (1986-1991) and T16 (1991-1999) to leak oil, so check thoroughly around the distributor as the cylinder head tends to weep in this area. These engines are critical for cambelts, so ensure that these have been changed at the correct time and mileage. Turbocharged versions are mechanically rugged, but do suffer from problems with their ECUs and associated control systems. Gearboxes aren’t really strong enough for a long life, especially if the car has been ‘chipped’. Listen closely for differential bearing whine in fourth and fifth gear.
The Honda V6 (1986-1995) engines prove exceptionally reliable, though they can develop noisy tappets in later life (ticking at idle is a Honda speciality). This is not serious, but it is recommended to keep these adjusted correctly.
RUNNING GEAR
The 800 does not appear to suffer too much in this department, with the main issues associated with age – with tired dampers and bushes on the rear suspension points to look closely at. Brake pedal feel is soft, and you’ll know if the pads are anywhere near needing replacement because they squeal loudly when they get near to their backing plates. On ABS-equipped models, make sure the warning tell-tale lights up when the car is switched on, but then goes out immediately.
If this light stays on, you’re looking at replacing the sensors, at the very least, and these are now expensive new (£100-plus per sensor) and difficult to get hold of secondhand. The steering on the Honda version is speed sensitive, and should weight-up with speed. Ensure there are no groans or knocking sounds when turning from lock to lock
at rest.
INTERIOR
The 800’s main bugbear is its propensity for the fusebox to suffer from dry joints – and this leads to all manner of problems, such as windows that won’t work when the car is warm and central locking that doesn’t lock. So if you come across a car that suffers in this way, the faults can invariably be solved by repairing or replacing the fusebox. There are also ignition and ECU problems on earlier models, along with alarms with minds of their ownand immobilisers that immobilise when you don’t want them to. Failing batteries can cause windows to
OUR VERDICT
A Rover 800 is an interesting and commodious classic that’s really quite nice to drive if you find a good one.
The principal appeal of the V6s is for cruising. The KV6 engined models sound and drive beautifully when they’re working. As for the four-pot naturally aspirated cars, all are efficient (30mpg is easily attained) and pleasant cruisers – but they’re overshadowed by the turbocharged Vitesse models, which in post-1994 Sport trim are amazingly good to drive. For less demanding drivers, a Honda V6 powered car will suit just fine, while keen drivers will love a nice tight Vitesse Sport.
ROVER 75 & MG ZT REVIEW
From traditional charm to sporting saloon, there's a version to suit everyone as we turn the spotlight on Rover's last model and its potent MG sibling...
Launched in 1999, the Rover 75 was the company’s last hurrah before disappearing into a mire of recrimination and obscurity. And despite being somewhat unusual, boasting gently curving and rather genteel styling amid a sea of sharp-looking executive chargers, it was, and indeed still is, much admired by many enthusiasts. And in 2001, the company broadened the appeal still further by introducing the MG ZT which brought with it a smattering of sporting accoutrements, not to mention the delightfully bonkers V8 version with its American motor and rear-wheel drive. Opt for the 75, though, and what you got was a car that was just perfect for pottering to the golf club or swallowing up motorways with relaxed ease. Smooth riding and impressively refined, it might have lacked the image of rival saloons but there was little doubting its ability, and there was a wide choice of engines from punchy K-Series units to the slick KV6. Or for extra frugality, the BMW-sourced M47-R diesel was just the ticket boasting crisp throttle response and a relaxed, torquey power delivery. Inside, well it was no wonder that some commentators dubbed it a ‘baby Bentley’. Unashamedly retro in its styling, it was a feast of plush seat materials, glossy wood, and glorious cream-faced dials. In fact, it was a thoroughly pleasant place to spend time proving comfortable and well-equipped, especially if you plumped for the top-spec Connoisseur. A downside was the ultimate lack of passenger space, particularly for those relegated to the rear perches, but the spacious boot was some consolation. And speaking of space, there was also the option of a spacious estate, or ZT-T if it was wearing the MG octagon. The sporting variant arrived in 2001, and while not exactly extrovert in its appearance, did just enough to inject some sporting allure. With petrol (or from 2002, diesel) engines and stiffer suspension it bought British charm to the sporting saloon segment and was a secure and entertaining handler. Even more entertaining if the 4.6-litre Ford V8 was under the bonnet, stonking performance and a delicious exhaust burble just an ankle flex away.
VITAL STATISTICS
Rover 75 2.0 CDTi
Engine 1951cccc/4-cyl/DOHC
Power 133bhp@4000rpm
Torque 192lb ft@2000rpm
Top speed 120mph
0-60mph 11.3secs
Economy 48mpg
Gearbox 5-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
Bodywork
The good news is that rust shouldn’t be an issue, although it’s worth checking for any bubbles that might have appeared as a result of damage or stone-chips. And look for the usual scrapes and scuffs on hard-used high-milers; items like bumpers are pricey, even second-hand, while various official body-kits were offered for the MGs, so check they are undamaged. One bodywork issue to consider, though, is blocked drain holes in the plenum chamber. It’s an easy fix, but water build-up can damage the engine ECU and pollen filter, with expensive consequences.
Watch also for broken bonnet cables, noisy boot locks, and water leaks from blocked sunroof drains and around the rear light lenses. Water getting into the boot can cause electronic gremlins, so check for damp. The tailgate on estate models featured a separately opening rear window, so it’s worth checking that the latch mechanism works and that water hasn’t been getting past the seals.
Engine
In various states of tune for the Rover and MG variants, petrol engines were 1.8-litre K-Series units in normally aspirated and turbocharged forms, and a smooth six-cylinder KV6. The former could suffer from head gasket issues at around 30,000 miles but it should have been sorted by now and shouldn’t recur if repaired properly. Turbos can suffer from split hoses, and there are reports of a dicky fuel pump causing starting issues, while air leaks from the inlet manifold gasket and a faulty Mass Airflow Sensor will cause running problems. Niggling sensor faults will bring up warning lights on the dash. The KV6 is a strong unit, but changing the cambelts at six years/90,000 miles is crucial as failure will wreck the engine - special tools are needed so check it’s been done. The thermostat housing can crack on these engines, too.
The 75’s common-rail 2.0-litre diesel, dubbed M47-R, is a BMW unit and was also added to the ZT range in 2002. It doesn’t suffer from any real problems although it’s worth listening for rattles indicating a stretched timing chain (it’s a major job to change) and poor running caused by a blocked EGR valve. Slightly less sensible, though, is the 4.6-litre Ford V8 fitted to the MG ZT 260. Driving the rear wheels, it makes a great noise and is plenty quick enough, and it’s a reliable lump, too, with parts easily available from specialists. A niche choice, it’s thirsty if provoked.
Transmission
The Getrag 5-speed manual gearbox is bullet-proof, as is the Tremec unit in the V8. Just listen out for a rattling Dual Mass Flywheel, issues with clutch hydraulics, and clutch wear on hard used examples as replacement is pricey. Jatco supplied the 5-speed automatic and it can suffer from occasional gear selection issues, courtesy of electronic glitches. Make sure it changes smoothly, and there are no dashboard warning lights. An oil change at around 60,000 miles will keep things healthy mechanically.
The handbrake can play up, thanks to a troublesome metal clip, although it’s a cheap fix, but otherwise the brakes and steering are mainly trouble-free. It’s worth checking the suspension for rattling drop links and broken springs, and noisy front strut top mounts. The rear bushes on front lower arms can split, with a specialist charging around £150 to sort both sides. Uneven rear tyre wear can also be an issue - some cars were misaligned from the factory - but an alignment check and adjustment will sort things.
INTERIOR
The cabin of a 75 is lovely, but it’s worth checking that lighter hues haven’t become shabby. Darker-trimmed MG’s fare better in this regard, but with either model you need to ensure that all the kit is working properly. Minor electrical niggles can afflict both models, and if the airbag warning light is showing it’s almost certainly a loose wiring connection beneath the front seats. Ensure, too, that both keys are provided as replacing them costs upwards of £150 with re-programming.
OUR VERDICT
It seems certain that future classic status beckons for these cars, and both offer plenty of charm and ability for not much money. A strong range of engines and trims are a plus, and the plentiful choice means there’s no need to get stuck with a duffer. For bargain luxury or sporting ability, these models certainly fit the bill.