LANCIA BETA BERLINA REVIEW

Lancia

Forty years since it was first launched, surely it’s time to view the Beta in a fresh light.

The Beta was the first new car introduced by Lancia after the Fiat takeover of 1969. Launched in 1972, it was available in a number of different body styles. First to appear, and originally the most common, was the four-door saloon or ‘Berlina’. The fastback styling gives the appearance of a hatchback, although it actually has a conventional boot. A jewel of a design that was streets ahead of other family offerings of the period, the Beta features four-wheel disc brakes, a five-speed gearbox, twin-cam engine and independent suspension. Most Series 1 Betas have gone to the crusher, but there are still well looked after post-1976 Series 2s to be found.

VITAL STATISTICS

1973 lancia beta berlina

Engine 1756cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm) 110bhp@6000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 106lb ft@3000rpm

Top speed 109mph

0-60mph 10sec

Consumption 26mpg

Gearbox 5-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

Begin at the front by checking the valance and bonnet. Stone chips here can lead to holed metal in time – although the valance was undersealed from new and is durable enough. Closely examine the MacPherson strut mountings and inner wings, which are crucial to the car’s structure. They can rot and allow the suspension to push straight through the top of the bodywork. There are often further nasties lurking underneath, particularly on Series 1s. Check the subframe mountings, which can pull away from the floorpan because the mountings aren’t strong enough. The metal around the mountings weakens over time, leading to the subframe pulling clean away. Series 2 cars use a redesigned subframe and floorpan with triangulated mountings, alleviating the problem.

Inspect the whole length of each sill – they’re made from three sections with a centre membrane, and all can rot from the inside out. Press firmly and feel for the metal giving way. Finish by checking the rear valance and quarter panels, as well as the rear wings and strut towers. The latter is best checked from inside the boot, so while you’ve got the boot lid open, make sure the boot floor is intact.

ENGINE

Don’t be too worried by an oily engine bay, as the Beta’s powerplant is notoriously tricky to seal completely. Cam cover and head gaskets are the likely culprits. Oil shouldn’t be gushing out, though you can expect to see signs of it. Get the engine up to temperature, then make sure the thermostatic fan cuts in. On carburettor-equipped cars, it often doesn’t work because the fuse is at the front of the engine bay (though it was later re-located) and this lets in water in, causing corrosion. The resultant overcooking of an engine can result in a blown head gasket, so remove the oil filler cap and check for mayonnaise-like deposits. Find out when the cambelt was last changed – it needs doing every 30,000 miles. If it breaks, the valves will come into contact with the pistons, resulting in the need for an expensive rebuild.

RUNNING GEAR

The only weak spot in the suspension is the MacPherson struts, which can leak. Any hydraulic fluid that has leaked from the dampers will be obvious in the wheelarches – complete replacement is the only cure. Steering rack gaiters can split if they have been cooked by the exhaust – there should be a heat shield fitted to prevent this – with replacement taking half a day. Gearboxes are tough, but second gear synchromesh is the first to go – when cold it can be difficult to select. You can either learn to live with it, or else find a decent replacement gearbox. Budget for the swap taking about a day.

INTERIOR

Very little interior or exterior trim is available new. Joining the club is perhaps the best option in order to source secondhand items. The checked woolcloth used on cars built between 1978 and 1981 is the most durable, so bear this in mind when viewing a prospective purchase.

OUR VERDICT

The oft-derided Beta has more going for it than you might expect, namely affordability, sharp handling and a lusty twin-cam motor. Find a good Series 2 built between 1977 and 1979 and you’ll have the best of the bunch. There’s the rub, though – finding any example of a Beta, never mind a good one, is getting increasingly difficult. They are out there – you just need to be prepared to look very hard.

LAND ROVER FT2 REDWING FIRE ENGINE REVIEW

Land-Rover

Maurice Wilks, head of design at Rover at the time, is credited with the original idea for the Land Rover immediately after the War. Mr Wilks needed a vehicle which would not only keep going over a iety of ground conditions but would tow, plough, do ious other agricultural tasks and drive other machinery. He tried an ex-WD half-track Ford truck and then a Willys Jeep which might have been more acceptable had it not been an imported product. He came to the conclusion that there was probably a world-wide market for a versatile, go anywhere, Jeep-like vehicle at the same time his brother Spencer Wilks - managing director of Rover - was looking for a stop-gap project to utilize spare factory capacity until such a time as the planned post-war Rover model programme could be put into effect. Various special models were offered from early on by the factory, including mobile compressor and welding vehicles, a fire engine, and an estate car. Rover soon abandoned these models, delegating these projects to outside firms so that they could concentrate on the manufacture of station wagons, pick-ups, double cabs, and hard and soft tops. The rest is history, with a iety of wheelbases offered from 80'', 86'', 88'', 107'', 109'', followed by 90'' and 110'' from 1985, these being known as the Defender Ninety and One Ten.

LAND ROVER RANGE ROVER REVIEW

Land-Rover

We take a look at the classic 4x4 – not the first but probably the most famous.

Spearheaded by Charles Spencer King and launched in 1970, the original Range Rover continues to influence the motoring world today. It was intended as a utility vehicle back then, with vinyl seats and rubber mats – the wood ‘n’ leather luxury was to come later. It wasn’t until 1981 that a four-door became available, while power was supplied by a 135bhp version of the Buick-derived 3.5-litre V8. Lucas fuel injection improved efficiency and economy in 1984, upping power to 155bhp, and an enlarged 3.9-litre version of the same engine appeared in 1990. Diesel power came courtesy of a more economical but sluggish 2.4-litre VM unit in 1988.

Comfortable and hugely capable off-road, the Range Rover showed that mud-plugging ability didn’t have to come at the expense of refinement. The association with the British monarchy over the years did nothing to harm its image either.

VITAL STATISTICS

Range Rover V8, 1972

Engine 3528cc/V8/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm) 135bhp@4750rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 185lb ft@2500rpm

Top speed 90mph

0-60mph 14.2sec

Consumption 15mpg

Gearbox 4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

Despite having some aluminium panels, rot is still a major factor on older Range Rovers and is the one issue where you don’t want to take any chances. Areas that demand careful checking include the sills, floorpan, rear chassis member, inner front wings and front bulkhead. Extensive rust in these areas is very costly to put right and not always easy to spot. The most obvious sign of rot tends to be the tailgate and there is a brisk trade in used replacements. Don’t ignore the upper tailgate frame either – a new Land Rover part is pricey, though an aluminium frame kit can be bought for around £200. You can also expect some electrolytic corrosion on those alloy panels, but yawning gaps between panels is par for the course. The availability of replacement parts is good.

ENGINE

The good news is that the ubiquitous 3.5-litre unit was fundamentally strong and any mechanic worth their salt can repair them. Not so good is the propensity for overheating, which leads to cracked cylinderheads and head gasket failure, so keep a close eye on the temperature gauge on the test drive. Oil leaks are another bugbear, with the front crank seal being a weak point. However, blockage of the flame traps located on the rocker covers can pressurise the crankcase, forcing oil from the breather pipe. It’s worth checking here first before assuming oil is escaping elsewhere. Using the incorrect oil can accelerate wear of the camshaft and followers, while using an oil additive will improve the longevity of early engines. The serious fuel-thirst also prompted many owners to opt for an LPG conversion, so ask to see the relevant certificates. These engines also appreciate regular oil changes so make sure the previous owner hasn’t skimped on basic maintenance.

RUNNING GEAR

Both manual and automatic transmissions last well as long as they haven’t been abused. Excessive noise or clunks from the driveline could point to problems with the transfer box or differentials, and replacing either is costly. Oil leaks from just about any part of the transmission system are a regular occurrence, so take a good look underneath (experts will check for tell-tale puddles as soon as they approach a car). Also look for any signs of off-road damage to the chassis or suspension components – these can take a battering over time and are a good indicator of a car’s past life. A wallowing ride means springs and dampers are past their best, while vague steering and a tendency to wander on the road can be caused by worn suspension bushes – those in the rear trailing arms and front radius arms are common culprits, but replacement costs are reasonable. Power steering fluid leaks are worth checking, though the earliest cars did without power assistance turning any drive into a real muscle-building experience.

INTERIOR

The interiors of early models were pretty basic and replacement parts are getting scarce – a complete re-trim is often more cost effective than trying to renew parts. However, it wasn’t long before some luxury was added to the 4x4 mix, with the later and very popular Vogue trim being a feast of wood, leather, and electric motors. Overall quality was below par, though, so it takes careful checking to make sure that everything works as it should. A sagging headlining is a common problem and something of
a nightmare to replace, while weak door seals will lead to a damp and musty cabin.

OUR VERDICT

The phrase ‘timeless classic’ is something of a cliché, but it certainly applies to the Range Rover. Few vehicles have managed to marry style and ability with such ease, and despite the explosion of imitators, they remain at the top of the 4x4 pile. The usual BL quality troubles means finding a good one isn’t easy but there is a wealth of specialist expertise out there to help you. Many have been smitten by that imperious driving position – try it for yourself and you won’t be disappointed.

LAND ROVER SERIES I REVIEW

Land-Rover

The S1 was a light utility with four-wheel-drive to deliver rough-terrain ability that no other light commercial had. The base model was a pick-up, usually with a canvas tilt in the UK. Tickford’s coachbuilt Station Wagon was too expensive to last beyond 1951, but a "Meccano-set" wagon appeared in 1953. The original model had an 80-inch wheelbase, while from 1953, an 86-inch wheelbase gave more space. From 1956 88 inches made room for the optional diesel engine.

VITAL STATISTICS

LAND-ROVER SERIES I 86-INCH

Engine 1997cc/4-cyl/overhead inlet

Power (bhp@rpm) 52bhp@4000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 101 lb ft @1500rpm

Top speed 60mph

0-60mph 25sec

Consumption 23mpg

Gearbox 4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

The panels are Birmabright aluminium alloy with galvanised steel cappings to stiffen and hold them together; the bulkhead and door frames are also steel. The alloy corrodes where it touches steel, but can also be gashed from hard use. Don’t worry if the paint has worn off; the panels won’t rust.

However, the bulkhead is critical to the whole structure, so you should always make sure that it is sound. Check particularly in the footwells and at the exposed ends, which form the door pillars. Re-manufactured bulkheads can be bought, but a re-build is a big job.

Some 86 and 88 Station Wagons were created from pick-up models by adding the relevant body parts. It takes an expert to spot the fakes. Tickford Station Wagons have a unique timber-framed body and are very expensive to restore. Some body parts for the 107 Station Wagons can be hard to find.

ENGINE

Petrol engines all have the same basic design, with overhead inlet and side exhaust valves. The 1948-1951 80-inch has a 1595cc type, and all later Series Is have a 1997cc type. Up to mid-1954, these have siamesed bores; later ones have water between all the bores. The diesels were only in 88-inch and 109-inch chassis, and are 2052cc OHV types. Of course, lots of other engines can be persuaded to fit, and have been!

The diesels were always slow and noisy, and are rare in good condition today. The petrol engines enjoy good parts support, although you may have to settle for some non-original items. An engine in good condition purrs gently and pulls well, although good road performance was never on the agenda. Tappets need regular adjustment, and oil leaks are more or less standard. Expect a smell of petrol: you’re sitting on the tank!

RUNNING GEAR

The chassis was not galvanised as standard, despite persistent rumours to the contrary. It’s a strong box-section design, and the outriggers that carry the body rust first. Check the top surfaces of the side members, where rust can go unnoticed. Look carefully at the back end, too, especially the rear cross-member.

Land-Rovers can obviously be subjected to rougher than usual use, so check for chassis damage. The cross-member under the gearbox might have been rammed hard up against the gearbox casing. The all-round leaf springs can sag and break from neglect. They are handed and there are several types; a lopsided look suggests the wrong ones have been fitted. Spring bushes and shackles are further consumable items.

Axles may be noisy, but can go on for a long time if they are oil-tight. Half-shafts break, and are difficult to find. The gearbox has no synchromesh between first and second; watch for it jumping out of mesh on the over-run. Expect clunks and bangs in the driveline because there are a lot of joints in it. The front hub swivels should have a smooth, chromed finish; pitting causes oil leaks and wear.

INTERIOR

Don’t expect sophistication. Bodies will not be water-tight or exclude draughts; that’s all part of their charm.

There are three front seats, unless the centre one has been removed for access to a centre power take-off. Station Wagons have inward-facing seats in the rear, and 107 wagons an additional centre row. The upholstery is vinyl and will likely be green (or, less commonly, grey or blue).

OUR VERDICT

You get character with a Land-Rover – bags of it. They are great fun to drive (but not for long distances), will go where ordinary cars simply won’t go, and are strangely addictive. A Series I Land-Rover is not like any other classic car you’ll buy, and you really will get to love its faults. It can actually be useful, too.

LAND ROVER 90 / DEFENDER REVIEW

Land-Rover

With production ending this year, now is the perfect time to put this classic mud-plugger under the spotlight...

Driving a Land Rover is always an experience, and the short wheelbase 90 – or Defender as it became in 1990 – is a classic example of the genre. Generally speaking, the earlier the model the more agricultural it feels on the road, but even the very latest cars are hardly paragons of comfort or refinement. That’s not really the point of these vehicles, of course, as the Landie was designed to offer long-lasting go-anywhere ability rather than cosset its occupants. But it does mean that you need to try one before you take the plunge as they most definitely aren’t for everyone. Indeed, on first acquaintance you might be forgiven for thinking that it was designed to be as challenging as possible, what with its hefty controls and poor driving position. You sit very upright for one thing, with limited seat adjustability, and the narrowness of the cabin means that banging you’re elbow on the driver’s door is almost inevitable as you twirl the wheel. The chunky pedals – ideally spaced for driving in wellies – feel weighty and the gearlever needs a firm hand, although it has to be said, there’s a satisfyingly mechanical feel to all the controls. Oh yes, and then there’s the ride and handling. The former is bouncy at just about any speed while any hint of over-enthusiasm – especially in the wet – will soon have the chunky tyres relinquishing their grip on the road. All of which forces a more sedate driving style, which if nothing else helps limit the intrusive levels of road, wind, and engine noise. You’ll probably not be surprised to find that things are pretty crude in the cabin too, with basic materials and construction and little in the way of kit on most models. So it’s not much fun then? Well, actually for many people it’s just the opposite. Make no mistake, allowances need to be made but the Landie is incredibly practical, and it’s durability and off-road credentials are almost unmatched. Approach it with an open mind, then, and it could be the most fun you’ve had behind the wheel in ages.

VITAL STATISTICS

Land Rover 90 TDi

Engine 2495cc/4-cyl/OHC

Power 85bhp@4000rpm

Torque 150lb ft@1800rpm

Top speed 74mph

0-60mph 22.3secs

Economy 22mpg

Gearbox 5-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

The place to start with these is underneath, as problems there are going to be the most expensive. Major chassis or bulkhead corrosion can be sorted but replacement can be upwards of £4000 and £3000 respectively, so check carefully. A car that’s a patchwork of welding beneath is probably best dismissed, and it’s worth bearing in mind that farmyard grot can accelerate corrosion so be wary of mud-laden examples. Areas to check include the body mounting points, outriggers, rear crossmember, and footwells. Watch for DIY bodgery too.

Don’t be alarmed by the fairly dreadful levels of panel fit and the large gaps– that’s normal – but you need to keep any eye out for galvanic corrosion in the aluminium body panels, the door bottoms especially, but replacements are plentiful and generally cheap. Steel doors were fitted from 2004 and don’t appear especially rust-prone, but all need checking for signs of worn door and tailgate hinges. Excessive play is common and causes water leaks past the seals but it’s a cheap and easy DIY fix. A few dents and scrapes add to the character but the Landie is very easy to titivate with later parts and snorkels, chequer plating etc.

ENGINE

Various engines have been fitted over the years, with the earliest diesels proving robust and easy to repair, if entirely lacking in performance or refinement. Units badged 200Tdi and 300Tdi were used from 1990 to 1994, and are both sought after and reliable. The camshafts are belt driven with replacement needed every six years or 72,000 miles but they rarely break and won’t damage anything if they do. The five-cylinder 2.5-litre Td5 from 1998 added electronic complexity and needs proper diagnostic kit making it pricier to fix, so you’re best off with a Tdi if possible. Ford’s Duratorq (the ‘Puma’ engine) unit was fitted from 2007 and should be trouble-free if serviced properly. Both of the later units use cam chains rather than belts.

Even diesel units weren’t exactly thrifty, but there’s always the option of the 3.5-litre V8 that was available early on. You need to watch for head gasket problems and cam wear, though, and whichever engine you choose it’s worth checking for signs of oil and coolant leaks and evidence of neglect. Excessive smoke from turbocharged engines should ring alarm bells.

Ensure you know what engine has been fitted as swaps are common. Many were simply run into the ground, although replacement engines aren’t hard to find and can be an economical option if the rest is sound. When it comes to mechanical parts, be wary of the cheap and inferior pattern stuff that exists – Land Rover OEM items are normally best according to specialists.

TRANSMISSION

Oil leaks from the gearbox and four-wheel drive hardware aren’t uncommon, and it’s important to ensure it’s all operating as it should. Expect it to be noisy and clunky, but anything too obstructive or signs of badly worn synchromesh will need further investigation. Amateur tinkering with the differential locks isn’t advisable so get the system checked by a specialist if you’re unsure. Wear in driveshaft and prop shaft joints are common issues, although clutch replacement is fairly inexpensive.

STEERING & SUSPENSION

Steering and suspension can take a pounding so check carefully for wear and tear, and lack of maintenance. Tired bushes and joints are the most common problems, and it’s worth checking for rot around the coil spring mountings. The steering box and PAS hydraulics can leak but overhauling the running gear is straightforward. Braking-wise, early models got disc and drums with discs all-round and ABS later. Chunky alloy wheels are popular with the urban warriors and just need checking for damage and corrosion.

INTERIORS

Interiors are a basic affair with fairly dire build quality, but damaged trim and non-functioning electrics are easy to sort. Leaks from the heater aren’t unusual, and while you might want to avoid anything too battered at least replacement parts are in plentiful supply.

OUR VERDICT

Frankly, this is going to be a car that you either love or hate. The verdict, then, depends which side of the fence you’re on but there’s no doubting it has a very unique appeal. Make sure you can live with the driving experience, but we’ll probably never see the like again, and that makes it a pretty special thing.

LAND ROVER DISCOVERY 1 REVIEW

Land-Rover

If you’re looking for charismatic adventure on a budget, the first-generation Discovery 200Tdi offers on-road comfort and near-unstoppable off-road practicality in one classic design.

As Land Rover’s answer to the onslaught of Japanese 4x4s invading Britain throughout the 1980s, the Discovery 1 is fast becoming the default choice for budget off-road enthusiasts in search of a bona fide classic.

Introduced at the Frankfurt Motor Show in 1989, the Discovery made use of existing Range Rover underpinnings. This included the suspension, axles and drivetrain while power choices were between the beloved 3.5-litre Rover V8 or a torquey 200Tdi diesel engine. Initially available only as a sporty three-door model, mainly to protect the Range Rover, the Discovery was marketed towards a younger, less-conservative driver with Jasper Conran-penned interior trim a A five-door version arrived for 1990, with new engines close to follow.

The design was critically acclaimed and improved Land Rover’s reputation with an assortment of prestigious awards, including US publication Four Wheeler Magazine’s ‘Four-Wheeler of the Year’. Sales boomed, with the five-door 200Tdi in particular proving to be extremely popular. With seven seats, the Discovery quickly became a fashion statement for young families and by the time the second-generation model arrived in 1998, the Discovery had established itself as a global class-leading SUV with a cult following.

VITAL STATISTICS

ENGINE 2495cc/4-cyl/OHV

POWER 111bhp@4000rpm

TORQUE 195.2lb ft@1800pm

MAXIMUM SPEED 92mph

0-60MPH 17.1 sec

FUEL CONSUMPTION 25-29mpg

TRANSMISSION 4WD, five-spd manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

IS THE ENGINE HEALTHY?

Depending on how the 200Tdi has been treated, engines can be on their last legs with very little warning. Any telltale signs of impending disaster can be found upon start-up. Look for white smoke or loss of coolant, and check all pipes are intact with appropriate pressure build up. If the pipes are hard then you could be walking into a world of woe. A loss of coolant could also mean that the head gasket is on the way out, a common occurrence at around 150,000 miles.

GEARBOX IN TOW

Check that gear-changes are free from sluggishness and that the correct gearbox oil is being used - for LT77 manuals before 1993, it should be auto transmission fluid. Listen out for whining which could be due to heavy towing. A key indicator that the transmission has been worked hard is crunching between second and third gear. If there is a slight banging or feeling of hesitation coming off the power, you could have severe mainshaft wear.

KEEPING YOU IN SUSPENSE

If the car has been used off-road or lugged frequent heavy loads, the suspension may have taken a bashing. Worn suspension bushes will result in clunking from the underside of the car when travelling over uneven ground, or if operating on full lock. Rear radius arm bushes can suffer badly, being a prime cause of skittish handling.

TAKING YOU ROUND THE BEND

If cornering is sloppy or the steering wheel wobbles, the suspension could be seriously worn, or the power steering box is on its way out. Worn components can mean vague communication through the steering wheel, with culprits ranging from front swivels to leaking power-steering mechanisms. A worn-out Discovery will generally handle poorly, but can be improved easily by replacing two or three minor components.

WATCH FOR BATTLE SCARS

Many a Discovery has been used for weekend fun or heavy work. Check for off-road damage on the underside, brake disc wear and injury to the exhaust system. Brake flexipipe can deteriorate if chafing against the chassis while paintwork and body structure points can be impaired from hefty use off the beaten track - this can start or aggravate rusting issues.

THE INSIDE MATTERS

In typical Land Rover fashion, leaks are very common. Sunroof rubbers can perish and allow Mother Nature in, while the top of the back door can weep. Interior wear can also be heavy depending on what the vehicle has been used for. Because of various rust and water traps, front inner wings can perish spectacularly, rotting from the A-post right through to the headlights. Rear floors and wheel arches also rust, while hinges and seatbelt mounts can rot badly. Again, if used off the beaten track or damaged, rust can be rampant throughout the entire vehicle.

OUR VERDICT

Cheaper than granddaddy Defender yet just as capable in the rough stuff, it’s arguably better looking than the contemporary Range Rover and far more DIY-friendly. There are plenty of specialists and sourcing parts isn’t tricky, and ownership means you can go off road with the scores of Land Rover clubs across the UK. Above all, it’s good fun and if you find one that’s been well looked after, not only have you got a prime investment on your hands, but also a tough, roomy and dependable British work horse.

LEYLAND PRINCESS REVIEW

Leyland

We look at BL’s big, Wedgey family saloon

British Leyland’s 1975-1981 18-22 series started life as a choice of Austin, Morris and Wolseley models before becoming the regally-named Princess. The name was ‘borrowed’ from Austin and Vanden Plas, which led to confusion as to the parentage of the cars, so the Princess became better known by its ‘Wedge’ nickname. This referred to its distinctive shape, penned by Harris ‘Mr Allegro’ Mann and more radical than any BMC or BL car before it.

With front-wheel drive and spacious interiors – thanks to transverse engines, including a six-cylinder – it was a world away from its Cortina and Granada rivals. However, it was also a world away from Ford in terms of quality. Despite being intended as a hatchback, it was felt this would steal sales from the Maxi, so it was saddled with a boot instead.

VITAL STATISTICS

PRINCESS 2200 HLS

Engine 2227cc/6-cyl/OHC

Power (bhp@rpm) 110bhp@5250rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 125lb ft@3250rpm

Top speed 105mph

0-60mph 13.5sec

Consumption 21mpg

Gearbox 4-speed man/3-speed auto

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

Check for rust in the air intake behind the numberplate, as well as where the front valance meets the wings. Rusty wheelarches can also strike, as can bubbles down the trailing edge of the wings; replacements are difficult to source. A-pillars can corrode, and it’s a difficult spot to repair. Door bottoms are likely to have rusted from the inside out, and the boot lid often suffers. Sills should be checked, with particular reference to the front and back areas. Front and rear inner wings normally start to evaporate inside the wheelarch. Brightwork isn’t known for its quality, and does the Wedge have all four of its chrome wheelarch trims (if applicable to the model)? Vinyl roofs and/or quarter panels – it depends on the spec – can split. Black ones seem more resilient than brown.

ENGINE

Perhaps surprisingly, it’s the 2.2-litre six-cylinder engines that are the weakest, but on all types, look for smoke from the exhaust and listen for loud tappets and rumblings. The 1.7- and 2-litre engines are both O-series types and quite rugged, although cambelts should be changed every 48,000 miles. All the four-cylinder engines are a little on the agricultural side, so expect some vibration, but the six-pot should be very smooth and refined. Check hoses and radiators for signs of leaks and look at the coolant – a rusty colour points to a car that hasn’t been looked after. This in turn may lead to overheating, so watch that temperature gauge and check the electric cooling fan does its job, especially on the hot-running 2200s. Listen carefully for whining from the rear, too.

RUNNING GEAR

Automatic Princesses have a Borg-Warner 35 gearbox – tried-and-tested and generally sturdy, assuming its light pink fluid has been changed when required. Changes should be smooth and decisive, and make sure the kickdown works as it should. Manual gearboxes also hold out well, but a notchy vagueness will set in with high mileages, and first gear can be difficult to find if the clutch or slave cylinder is past its best. Brakes are known for their effectiveness – they should be strong, with no sponginess. On bends, listen for the clicking of a worn CV joint and follow this up with a visual inspection of the boots for any splits. Suspension is Hydragas all around, so a car that is leaning to one side may just need a pump up. However, it could also mean the pipes are leaking or the displacers need replacing. They can be both difficult to find and to fit. All 2200 Princesses came with power steering, so check it’s functioning.

INTERIOR

On well-used Wedges, the driver’s seats may have begun to sag from age, and the backrests fade and deteriorate, especially on HL models. The dashboard on the HLS versions is genuine wood, but this can fall victim to scratches, fading, lifting varnish and chips. Lower-spec variants don’t have the wood dash, but their plastic surfaces are prone to cracking. Headlining goes saggy with age, often accompanied by discolouring and rips. You should check the front footwells under the carpets – perished windscreen rubbers will allow in water and this is where it collects. Electrics are quite simple, and most faults can be put down to dodgy contacts – there are only eight fuses, in a panel under the bonnet. Check the gauges all function properly, though.

OUR VERDICT

If you don’t get the whole 1970s BL cult, then nothing on earth will tempt you near a Princess. However, if you’re a Leyland sympathiser, then the Wedge is one of the peaks of the company’s output. In 2200 six-cylinder form, they’re smooth to drive, have superbly supple suspension and boast generous amounts of interior space. Above all, there’s that striking and idiosyncratic shape; really and truly, nothing else looks like a Princess. Dare we say it: it’s the British equivalent to the Citroën DS.

LOTUS ELAN M100 REVIEW

Lotus

Has the opinion-dividing Lotus Elan M100 finally come of age?

Not only does the Elan M100 use an Isuzu-sourced engine, it is – whisper it – front-wheel drive. After decades of rear-driven Elans, this smacked of heresy at the car’s 1989 launch, and although Lotus stood stubbornly by its decision throughout the M100’s life, it can surely be no coincidence that every other Lotus since then has been rear-driven.

The Elan’s perceived dynamic shortcomings are two-fold – the driving position is set well back, with the driver seemingly far away from the curved windscreen. Factor in handling that, to quote period press reports, was too flat, grippy and predictable to be any fun – especially compared to the rear-wheel drive Mazda MX-5 launched around the same time
– and the case for the M100 looks shaky.

Poppycock. The Turbo, in particular, is sensational, and if flat, grippy and predictable handling is a fault, then would that more cars were similarly ‘faulty’.

In truth, the Elan M100 is an absolute blast to drive. It might not make a particularly fruity sound, but as a talented and unusual alternative to the increasingly ubiquitous MX-5, it has few peers.

VITAL STATISTICS

LOTUS ELAN M100 TURBO

Engine 1588cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm) 165bhp@6600rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 148lb ft@4200rpm

Top speed 137mph

0-60mph 6.5sec

Consumption 42.2mpg

Gearbox 5-spd manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

It’s advisable to have something to lie on when assessing any M100, as there’s plenty to check underneath the car. Being so low slung, the potential for impact damage is pretty high, especially on the front bumper and the rubber lip that lines its lower edge. Check also that the skid guard beneath the radiator is present and correct – heavy damage here should set alarm bells ringing. A guard that’s missing altogether leaves the radiator vulnerable to stone and salt water damage, and also suggests indifferent maintenance.

While you’re supine beneath the front of a prospective purchase, examine the longitudinal metal structure that forms the engine bay’s underframe. This is called a ‘prongeron’ and cars left the factory with a sticker affixed to it declaring ‘Do Not Jack’ for a reason: jacking damage here is a clear indication that a car has either been maltreated or maintained by a garage that isn’t a Lotus specialist. The prongeron needs to be removed in order to access the oil pick-up, too – if yours shows evidence of recent removal, ask the vendor why it was done.

ENGINE

The engine should be relatively clean and completely free from oil leaks. Failure of the cam angle sensor oil seal can leak oil onto the right-hand side of the engine (although it’s an easy enough repair), but evidence of oil leaks anywhere else is bad news. Turbocharged cars require an oil change every six months – if you check the dipstick and find dirty oil, then this rule clearly hasn’t been adhered to. Evidence of moisture on the dipstick and/or the presence of a mayonnaise-like substance on the underside of the oil filler cap often mean that the cylinderhead gasket is on its way out.

ELECTRICS

The quad pop-up headlights are very cool, but if they fail to rise smoothly together (or, indeed, rise at all) chances are the bulkhead-mounted control box is on the blink. That, or the bushes/gear teeth are worn. More commonly, the fault can sometimes be traced to a simple broken wire leading to the headlight pods themselves.

RUNNING GEAR

Persistent stalling and poor starting, especially on non-turbo cars, can often be traced to the rotor arm inside the distributor, which can work loose. Failing that, check the fuel pump – these can sound healthy enough even when they’re generating next to no pressure. It’s worth checking the fuel filter (for blockages) and ignition coil (for poor connections), too. As a matter of course, it’s always advisable to allow an M100’s fuel pump to prime fully before starting, especially when the engine is hot. And make sure the pump’s inertia switch has not been inadvertently tripped.

BRAKES

A known M100 weakness concerns the rear suspension, specifically the lower wishbones. Series 2 cars were fitted with properly galvanised lower wishbones but, for some reason, earlier models didn’t receive this protection, so over time they inevitably start to corrode and subsequently fail. Check that yours have either been replaced or that the originals have been suitably rust-proofed.

OUR VERDICT

It’s taken a while for the Elan’s Peter Stevens-penned lines to mature into mainstream popularity, but where the MX-5 looks delicate and non-intimidating, the Elan looks squat, pugnacious and ready for a fight. Not for nothing has the M100 often been likened to a British bulldog.

Being so wide (more than six feet), the cabin is surprisingly accommodating – the deep dashboard may appear to distance the driver from all the action at the front, but it certainly makes the car feel much less claustrophobic than many of its rivals.

Buyers on a budget can opt for the standard (and considerably cheaper to insure) 130bhp naturally aspirated model, but they’re becoming increasingly rare in the face of the much more popular turbo cars. To be honest, the blown cars are much more fun to drive, sporting as they do 165bhp (160bhp on later catalyst-equipped models) and maximum torque delivered surprisingly low down in the rev range. And since you can pick up a low-mileage minter for less than £6000, they represent spectacular value for money, too.

In many ways, the M100 Elan is the roadster that time seems to have completely forgotten about. Its opinion-polarising styling and perceived dynamic weaknesses have further conspired against it over the years.

But to dismiss it as a niche bagatelle – something to choose only if you absolutely, positively MUST be seen as slightly left field at all times – is to sell it woefully short.

There are loads of them for sale at any one time, and very few are neglected basket-cases. Indeed, time, tide and inexperienced inability to control full boost on a wet roundabout seems to have weeded out the undesirable element almost completely.

The many surviving examples appear to be almost exclusively lovingly cared-for minters with an ownership network that is as knowledgeable and enthusiastic as they come. Small wonder values remain high.

  Lotus

  Elan

LOTUS ELAN REVIEW

Lotus

The original ’60s Elan still has the power to thrill

There really isn’t very much room in an Elan, as designer Colin Chapman took something of a minimalist approach. Squeeze yourself behind the wheel, and you might find that you’re not very comfortable – especially if you’re tall. Be honest about how important comfort is to you: if the discomfort is enough to hinder your ability to drive, think again about the car you’re buying!

Once under way, though, you’ll enjoy the sheer poke of that twin-cam engine in such a light structure. The exhaust seems to make all the right noises, too, and the car seems to come alive as you build up speed. The ride is surprisingly comfortable, though definitely sporting. What you’ll enjoy most is the car’s ability to go round corners at speeds you would not have thought possible.

VITAL STATISTICS

Series 3 SE models

Engine 1558cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm) 115bhp@6250rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 112lb ft@4600rpm

Top speed 120mph

0-60mph 6.8sec

Consumption 28mpg

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

The one really critical element of an Elan is its backbone chassis. You really need to get right underneath the car to take a proper look; put it on a hoist, as it’s too low to crawl under. Check for any sign of twisting, and avoid any chassis which has been plated or welded. Look for rot in the turret-like extensions at each corner of the Y-shaped front and rear sections which carry the suspension. Many cars have been rebuilt on a new galvanised chassis, and some on the specially-developed Spyder upgraded chassis.

The body is GRP, so you needn’t look for rust. Look instead for evidence of bodged accident repairs. Repair sections can be grafted in seamlessly by an expert, but many DIY repairs have been less than expert. A little cracking of the gel coat is only to be expected, although major stress cracks suggest trouble of one sort or another. Check that the headlamps pop up as they should; early cars used a vacuum system to lift them, while later cars had a ‘fail-safe’ arrangement where the vacuum system kept them closed.

ENGINE

Engines are notorious for oil leaks, so don’t be dismayed to spot some seeping from the cam cover. Generally, though, the engine’s reputation for being temperamental is unjustified: most problems are the result of inexpert maintenance, and we can’t stress enough how important it is to let an expert set the Lotus engine up. The twin carburettors (Strombergs, Webers or Dellortos) need careful balancing. It’s worth noting is that they are rubber-mounted and are intended to move a little. If they don’t move, somebody has tightened the mountings too much – so what else has that somebody messed up?

The twin overhead camshafts are driven by a single timing chain, and this is often maladjusted. A clatter from the front of the engine spells chain trouble. Check the screw adjuster on the left-hand side of the timing case (as you look from the front). If it is already screwed in as far as it will go, the engine needs a new chain. As for oil pressure, look for around 40psi when the engine’s warm, but don’t be alarmed if it drops as low as 20psi at idle.

RUNNING GEAR

Experts generally agree that the water pump is a weakness. It is barely up to the job, and many owners have fitted bigger radiators and alternative pumps to keep the cars cool in traffic. Over-tightening the fan belt contributes to premature water pump wear. Check for wear in the pump by gently trying to rock the fan blades fore and aft – and watch the temperature gauge during your test drive. Remember that a specialist will need a couple of days to replace the water pump if it’s gone.

BRAKES

Feel for movement in all the suspension and steering arms, as worn bushes play havoc with the handling. A weakness is worn trunnions, in the front suspension between the outer ends of the two-piece lower wishbone. The driveshafts have Rotoflex ‘doughnut’ couplings and you should see these as consumables. When were they last changed? Some owners have switched to non-original solid shafts; talk to your favoured specialist for views on this conversion. Then check the security of the steering rack, and satisfy yourself that the steering works as it should; racks need specialist adjustment.

OUR VERDICT

For sheer everyday driving fun, it’s hard to beat the original Elan. This is a car that just begs to be driven, and all the more so if it’s an open model and the sun’s out! Parts and maintenance back-up is widely available, and that’s a huge bonus. There isn’t much that can go wrong with an Elan that you can’t get fixed – although don’t expect bargain-basement prices. The car may have been officially a ‘kit car’ when it was new, but that was a way of avoiding taxes rather than an indication of any low-budget ethos! Our choice would be a late Series 3 SE or a Series 4, with the best performance and extra refinement.

However, an Elan is not for you if you’re not prepared to put in regular maintenance – and we do mean regular. Oil needs to be changed and the timing chain checked every 3000 miles or so, for example, which could be a chore to anyone used to today’s servicing intervals.

The Lotus Elan set new standards in early-1963 with its combination of light weight, performance and unsurpassed cornering ability – it literally does seem to go around corners as if it is running on rails. And what was exceptional back in its day is still very good today; the Elan remains a car by which many others are still measured in handling terms. The combination of light weight and innovative engineering resulted in a car that is just as nimble to drive as ever. It was on the shoulders of the Elan that Lotus established so much of its sporting reputation. And justifiably so.

The Ford Cortina-derived twin-cam engine is a lively motor that encourages you to extract the best from the car, although it can also be temperamental as well. You probably don’t want one if you don’t relish getting your hands dirty quite frequently. But, then again, you probably wouldn’t want any classic if you don’t like tinkering. The Elan just demands a little more of it sometimes, although at least you won’t have rusty bodywork to worry about, which is a bonus.

LOTUS ELITE REVIEW

Lotus

The Elite really is all about the driving experience, with handling that will come as something of a revelation to those used to competitors of the day. With just 75bhp to play with in original form you could hardly expect road-burning performance, but when it came to the twisty bits the Elite was almost unrivalled. The sharp steering and good ride quality combine to make it a terrific car on the right road, and there is a sublime balance to the handling. And just in case you do over-cook things, the brakes provide plenty of stopping power aided by the light weight construction.

The low slung interior just adds to the sensation of speed, and while it is somewhat noisy – not to mention a bit cramped for taller drivers – the cabin is a great place to be. In fact, just being able to grip that delicate alloy and wood-rimmed steering wheel is probably reason enough to buy one of these cars. The Elite really does define what Lotus was all about and is likely to prove hard to resist.

VITAL STATISTICS

Lotus elite

Engine 1216cc/4-cylinder/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm) 75bhp@6100rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 77lb ft@4900rpm

Top speed 112mph

0-60mph 11.4sec

Consumption 34mpg

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

The lack of a separate chassis means you don’t have to worry about rust, which is something of a relief with a British classic. The GRP body does bring its own problems, however, and with it the potential for huge restoration costs; it pays to give this area plenty of attention when it comes to a used purchase. Cracking or delamination of the monocoque shell are the major worries, and with repairs for specialists only, you should steer well clear of any cars that are damaged or exhibit signs of a bodged restoration. Look closely at the paintwork too as getting a smooth finish isn’t easy, and a top-notch re-spray won’t be cheap.

Another area that demands close scrutiny is where the front subframe and differential mount to the bodyshell. The mountings are bonded in place and can pull away from the body, with disastrous consequences. New shells are available, but at a cost of around £12,500 including bonnet, boot, and door panels.

ENGINE

Despite the Elite’s reputation for fragility, the Climax engine (based on a fire-engine pump unit) is very durable, but it does require careful, professional maintenance if it’s to remain that way. Many are damaged by owners who are unfamiliar with the all-aluminium unit over-torqueing nuts and bolts, so a record of specialist care is vital. With large production tolerances, original engines could suffer from high oil consumption – as much as 300 miles per pint – but most will have been rebuilt by now with modern materials and techniques all but eradicating the problem. If the car you are looking at has twin SU carburettors, it is likely to be an ‘SE’ model introduced in 1960, and with 85bhp on tap.

RUNNING GEAR

The gearbox and differential are fundamentally strong, so it is a case of listening for any rumbling or whines that point to an impending rebuild. While checking the rear axle, watch for signs of leaks from the differential oil seals as these can deposit oil on the inboard rear brake discs. And make sure the alloy casting itself is undamaged as problems here will be very bad news for the wallet.

The Elite is a light car, so serious problems with the suspension are rare unless neglected. Corrosion of the front subframe can be an issue, as can the previously mentioned mounting points, but the suspension itself can benefit from upgraded polyurethane bushes which are a popular modification. At the rear is a ‘Chapman Strut’ arrangement (a long strut with a coil spring with the driveshaft forming the lower link) which is generally trouble free, though is very sensitive to proper alignment so watch for signs of kerbing such as uneven tyre wear. Series 2 cars received tweaks to the rear suspension design, adding a radius arm arrangement for improved handling. The wheel bearings and various suspension parts need regular greasing – a fastidious previous owner should have kept on top of this.

INTERIOR

The interior of an Elite is a pretty simple place so there is little to be concerned about here. A tatty and neglected cabin will be immediately obvious and should cast doubt on the overall condition of the car. Water leaks can damage carpets and trim so check thoroughly, as a complete re-trim is unlikely to be cheap. Check too for any unsympathetic modifications as these will affect the value.

OUR VERDICT

It is very tempting to say: "because it’s a Lotus". However, a more detailed reason is that you’ll be buying the ultimate embodiment of Colin Chapman’s ‘simplify and add lightness’ philosophy.

The Elite was light years ahead of its closest competitors when it came to design and construction, features that would make it one of the finest handling sports cars of its generation.

A fully load-bearing GRP monocoque body was mated to a simple Climax engine and all-round independent suspension. And while the Elite may not have been the fastest car around in a straight line, it could out-handle many more powerful machines. And that made it pretty special.

It wasn’t a cheap car in its day – at just under £2000, it was on a par with Jaguars – and Lotus allegedly lost money on every one of the 1030 or so examples sold due to the high production costs. But for sublime looks and a wonderful driving experience, there is little to touch a well-sorted Elite.

To borrow a phrase it really is about condition, condition, condition with the Elite.

Most of the cars currently for sale have been very well looked after by respected marque specialists – find one of these and you are unlikely to be disappointed.

LOTUS ESPRIT REVIEW

Lotus

With fewer than 900 cars built, the Esprit Series 1 is a rare beast. We show you around one of Hethel’s finest ever supercars

For anyone over 6ft tall, the Esprit’s cabin is quite a tight squeeze and the fore/aft seat adjustment is limited by the engine firewall. But once you acclimatise, it’s the grip that amazes. The limits of the Esprit’s adhesion are so high that if the rear does slide, you’ll need good reflexes to catch it, as you’ll be doing silly speeds. With well-judged suspension and responsive steering, it’s a proper driver’s car. The 907 engine is flexible and tractable, pulls beautifully and is well mannered once the carbs have warmed up. As an everyday car, its lack of practicality would annoy, but as a weekend car it’s a joy.

The Lotus Esprit might look a million dollars, but it could end up costing close to that in repair bills alone if you land a bad one.

The Esprit started life as a concept car at the 1972 Turin Motor Show, the first of Giorgetto Giugiaro’s ‘folded paper’ designs that forgot curves in favour of finely chiselled lines and angles. And anything that is born as a concept is pretty damn spectacular if it ever escapes into the mainstream.

The Esprit heralded Lotus’ true transformation from kit car specialist to supercar manufacturer, although the first cars, with their Jensen-Healey two-litre engines, did lack the speed and acceleration that one might have expected from such a spectacular looker. As the ious series progressed, performance improved, as did Lotus’ attention to build quality, which was initially pretty woeful. However, it was only in 1980, when Lotus strapped on Garrett AiResearch T3 turbochargers onto the engines of limited edition Essex models that what the cars could do finally correlated with the stunning presence. That put top speed up to over 150mph and the 0-60mph to five seconds.

It may be a two-seater, but unlike some sports cars, the Esprit provides plenty of space inside its cosy cabin, with a plunging dashboard, bucket seats and high transmission tunnel resulting in a luxurious cabin that totally envelops passengers.

Lotus’ focus has always been more on handling than straight-line speed, and the Esprit conforms to its benchmark standards of manoeuvrability. With its light weight, ground-hugging profile and midmounted engine, the Esprit is an utter treat on twisty roads – you’ll lose confidence long before the car will lose grip, although if you do get silly, an Esprit can break away in a shockingly scary way. That balanced, flickable ability on bends means you can forgive it not actually being that fast, unless you’re in a Turbo, in which case all the essential supercar elements are in place. The Esprit does share one of the major foibles of mid-engined supercars however – rearward visibility is far from great. It’s a nightmare to park.

Owning an Esprit isn’t a proposition you enter into lightly. As tempting as it may be to own something with supercar looks for much less than you’d pay for a mainland European equivalent, just be wary that these are high maintenance cars, and unless you’re prepared to do some of the basic jobs yourself, ownership costs can be high. That said, if you’re prepared to open your heart and wallet to an Esprit, it can be an immensely rewarding classic. It is one of the most eye-catching British sports cars ever constructed. Find the right road, where you can exploit the handling prowess, and there’s very little to compare with an Esprit. The word itself stands for ‘liveliness of mind or spirit’ and this is one of those machines that completely fulfils the title bestowed on it.

VITAL STATISTICS

Lotus Esprit S1

Engine 1973cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm) 160bhp@6200rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 140lb ft@4900rpm

Top speed 124mph

0-60mph 8.6sec

Consumption 26mpg

Gearbox 5-spd manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

The good news is that rust is not an issue on the GRP body, but you do need to check for stress cracks around any moving parts, such as the boot, door and tailgate hinges, as well as around the A-pillars. Paint lacquer can lift on metallic cars, so budget for a respray if this is the case.

Items sliding around in the boot can cause starburst cracks to appear – as well as stonechip impacts. These can only be repaired by rebonding in new fibreglass and repainting.

The fit and finish of the moulding is usually very good, so if there are any alignment or poor fit issues, check for evidence of crash damage.

The Series 1 didn’t have a galvanised chassis, so check it with care on a ramp. While the bodywork does protect it to a certain extent, cars that have been driven hard tend to burn the coating off the chassis around the exhaust manifold, so check this area in particular, together with the fragile box section parts on the front of the chassis.

Another rust spot are the fuel tanks – there are two of them – each located behind the seats. They’re fiddly to get at and replacement aluminium tanks costs £250 a side.

ENGINE

Oil leaks from the 907 engine’s rocker covers are common but easy to fix with rubber gaskets available to replace the original cork items. The carbs need to be checked for leaks around the fuel lines – fires have claimed many Esprits. Check the banjo bolts on the fuel lines are tight and the cast exhaust manifold for leaks – it’s difficult to get at and the bolts often shear, meaning the cylinder head has

to be removed.

Regular servicing is key to this engine and clean oil, together with translucent coolant, are vital to its health. The oil needs changing at least every 6000 miles and check for a genuine Lotus oil filter.

As the filter is mounted high up on the engine, it’s vital it has a filter with an anti-drain valve. You should see 35psi at around 3500rpm when the engine is warm.

The cambelt and tensioners are easily available but it’s a difficult job due to the access. Check the water pump for leaks; these can be pricey to replace, but Lotus specialists can usually recondition them for less than £100.

ELECTRICS

Ensure the electric fans kicks in and that there are no drips from the long pipes that connect the front-mounted radiator to the engine, or any corrosion in the expansion tank. Washer bottle spillage can cause the electrical fan connections to corrode.

RUNNING GEAR

The Citroën SM gearbox is not the toughest of units, but can cope with the S1’s modest power. The spigot bearing must be changed during clutch swaps – check the receipts for this as it can damage the crankshaft if it fails. Equally, the clutch release bearing is not cheap (£140-£300) so check the clutch with care. The gears should select easily, too – if they don’t you’ll need to budget for the various linkage bushes to be replaced.

BRAKES

The Esprit uses inexpensive brake discs at the front, but the inboard mounted rear discs can be fiddly to get at and cost around £90 a disc – so check they’re in good order. Bear in mind that the driveshafts need to be removed to change the rear pads and discs, which adds to the cost. Handbrake cables are prone to seizing, too.

The front suspension uses unequal length wishbones with Maxi wheel bearings. The front trunions have grease nipples and, together with the bearings, need to be greased at the correct intervals. Long rear trailing arms link to a fabricated hub and transverse lower link. The driveshaft forms the upper wishbone, so the UJs at either end have a lot of work to do. These must be greased regularly and checked for play. Dampers are inexpensive at around £60 for the fronts and £85 for the rears and it’s wise to fit polyurethane bushes during any suspension work as it saves MoT issues in the long run.

OUR VERDICT

The Esprit S1’s dramatic styling is like nothing else on the road and the rust-free body means that it’ll stay looking great for years, providing you buy a good one in the first place. The compact cabin takes some getting used to and it’s certainly not a car you’d want to use every day, but on a twisty road on a sunny day it delivers an incredible driving experience.

LOTUS ESPRIT S1 REVIEW

Lotus

For anyone over 6ft tall, the Esprit’s cabin is quite a tight squeeze and the fore/aft seat adjustment is limited by the engine firewall. But once you acclimatise, it’s the grip that amazes. The limits of the Esprit’s adhesion are so high that if the rear does slide, you’ll need good reflexes to catch it, as you’ll be doing silly speeds. With well-judged suspension and responsive steering, it’s a proper driver’s car. The 907 engine is flexible and tractable, pulls beautifully and is well mannered once the carbs have warmed up. As an everyday car, its lack of practicality would annoy, but as a weekend car it’s a joy.

It may be a two-seater, but unlike some sports cars, the Esprit provides plenty of space inside its cosy cabin, with a plunging dashboard, bucket seats and high transmission tunnel resulting in a luxurious cabin that totally envelops passengers.

Lotus’ focus has always been more on handling than straight-line speed, and the Esprit conforms to its benchmark standards of manoeuvrability. With its light weight, ground-hugging profile and mid-mounted engine, the Esprit is an utter treat on twisty roads – you’ll lose confidence long before the car will lose grip, although if you do get silly, an Esprit can break away in a shockingly scary way. That balanced, flickable ability on bends means you can forgive it not actually being that fast, unless you’re in a Turbo, in which case all the essential supercar elements are in place. The Esprit does share one of the major foibles of mid-engined supercars however – rearward visibility is far from great. It’s a nightmare to park.

VITAL STATISTICS

Lotus Esprit S1

Engine 1973cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm) 160bhp@6200rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 140lb ft@ 4900rpm

Top speed 124mph

0-60mph 8.4sec

Consumption 23mpg

Gearbox 5-spd manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

Body corrosion isn’t an issue, thanks to glassfibre construction, and the shell is pretty resilient. The nose is prone to stone chips and the entire body should be checked for star cracks and signs of accident damage repair, most likely in the corners.

You’ll need to get under the car to check the chassis for corrosion, likely to occur around the insulating (and water-absorbing) layer of felt between the chassis and the body. From May 1980, a galvanised chassis was adopted.

ENGINE

Three engines were used – the Type 907 (2.0-litre), 912 (2.2-litre) and 910 (2.2-litre with a whopping great turbocharger attached). The engines have a reputation for fragility, so look for evidence of their 6000-mile/six-month service intervals using a genuine anti-drain valve Lotus oil filter fitted. Listen for big end rumblings when the engine is started – a sign of oil starvation if a Lotus filter hasn’t been used. Oil pressure should show 35psi at 3500rpm to 45psi at 6500rpm, although at idle it can drop as low as 5psi. Cambelts need to be changed every 24,000 miles or two years. On turbo cars, the wastegate can seize – so you won’t hear that distinctive ‘pssssst’ and the boost pressure gauge won’t climb above 0.8bar.

RUNNING GEAR

Gearboxes are from the Citroën SM, and finding parts is like looking for a mechanical needle in an automotive haystack. So ensure on your test drive that the changes are slick and smooth; worn cables and bushes will make them difficult. Listen for whining too – a sign of bearings past their best. If the clutch has recently been renewed, ask if the spigot bearing was done at the same time; it needs to be lubricated, and if it isn’t, it can fail and junk the crankshaft at the same time.

Heavy steering points to a worn out steering rack, with S3 models most likely to suffer from this, due to wider wheels. At best, you’ll probably see 48,000 miles from a rack. Also check the steering self-centres – if it doesn’t, the universal joint on the column has likely seized, although this is quite cheap to replace. Clonks while accelerating and decelerating point to suspension universal joints past their best, and bearings also wear quite frequently as well. On post-1985 cars, a Toyota front suspension set-up was used, which is much better than the previous system with trunnions requiring regular lubrication. Look around the anti-roll bar mountings on all cars, though – the lower wishbones can crack in this area.

BRAKES

Test the handbrake – it seizes easily because it can’t be lubricated. The lever itself can even break away on S1/2 cars because it gets knocked easily. The mounting was strengthened on S3 cars. Do check the plastic clutch slave cylinder pipe – it goes brittle, and can spill fluid over the rear brakes, which can then catch fire and burn out the whole car. Braided upgrades are available.

INTERIOR

Several different upholstery types were used – it’s really only leather you need to check closely, for signs of cracking. The bonded windscreen on S1/2 models tends to leak with age, so look on the dash for signs of water ingress. Electrical problems are often traced back to bad earths, due to the plastic body.

OUR VERDICT

The Esprit started life as a concept car at the 1972 Turin Motor Show, the first of Giorgetto Giugiaro’s ‘folded paper’ designs that forgot curves in favour of finely chiselled lines and angles. And anything that is born as a concept is pretty damn spectacular if it ever escapes into the mainstream.

The Esprit heralded Lotus’ true transformation from kit car specialist to supercar manufacturer, although the first cars, with their Jensen-Healey two-litre engines, did lack the speed and acceleration that one might have expected from such a spectacular looker. As the various series progressed, performance improved, as did Lotus’ attention to build quality, which was initially pretty woeful. However, it was only in 1980, when Lotus strapped on Garrett AiResearch T3 turbochargers onto the engines of limited edition Essex models that what the cars could do finally correlated with the stunning presence. That put top speed up to over 150mph and the 0-60mph to five seconds.

Owning an Esprit isn’t a proposition you enter into lightly. As tempting as it may be to own something with supercar looks for much less than you’d pay for a mainland European equivalent, just be wary that these are high maintenance cars, and unless you’re prepared to do some of the basic jobs yourself, ownership costs can be high. That said, if you’re prepared to open your heart and wallet to an Esprit, it can be an immensely rewarding classic. It is one of the most eye-catching British sports cars ever constructed. Find the right road, where you can exploit the handling prowess, and there’s very little to compare with an Esprit. The word itself stands for ‘liveliness of mind or spirit’ and this is one of those machines that completely fulfils the title bestowed on it.

LOTUS EUROPA REVIEW

Lotus

We enthuse over Hethel’s unique wedge-shaped sports car

Driving a Lotus Europa is quite an experience. As period advertising admitted: "The Lotus inflames passions. Some love it, some hate it."

From the outset, you are cocooned in a small but practical interior with a superbly responsive throttle thanks to a lightweight flywheel. The result? Bliss for some drivers, a feeling of claustrophobia for others.

Steering requires very little effort and the mid-mounted engine buzzes behind you like an angry wasp. Series 1 cars are considered to be the better handling, since they were constructed with a backbone chassis, which meant that the plastic body was bonded to it, adding rigidity.

Later cars may not be quite so sophisticated in design, but they were given much more powerful engines, so it’s a swings-and-roundabouts situation. Whichever Europa you select, you’re assured of getting plenty of attention, and loads of rear-wheel drive fun, while the overall lightness of the car makes for a true Lotus experience.

VITAL STATISTICS

Series 1 (Renault engined)

Engine 1470cc/4-cyl/SOHC

Power (bhp@rpm) 82bhp@5500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 79lb ft@4000rpm

Top speed 116mph

0-60mph 9.1sec

Consumption 29mpg

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

Special editions like the John Player Special are rare, and therefore generally more expensive. However, be aware that there are a number of fake JPS editions on the market.

The only way to fully check what you are buying is to cross-reference the chassis identification number with Club Lotus or Lotus itself. You’ll find the unit identification plate on the left-hand side of the bulkhead in the engine compartment.

Look out for rust, because even a clean-looking Europa hides its corrosion surprisingly well. Rot spots include the rear trailing links, chassis mounts and anywhere the chassis is joined to the body – corrosion on the chassis can be incredibly expensive to fix. And bear in mind that a new chassis can affect prices when it comes to selling on the car, as many Lotus enthusiasts are very particular about originality.

The exterior is one of the reasons this car is so special – nothing else looks quite like it. Made from glassfibre, it can be expensive to fix even minor body damage. Sagging doors are a common complaint from Europa owners, so it makes sense to check that the door hinges are solid, gapped right, or have been suitably reinforced.

The seat belt mounts are made from mild steel, so check the chassis. If there’s any corrosion, chances are the belt mounts will be in a much worse state, as their position means they don’t get any protection from the elements.

ENGINE

Engine parts can be pricey if you buy an early Renault-engined Europa. Although the Renault lump is reliable, parts are hard to come by, so listen out for lumpy rattles and check for oil leaks. The Lotus twin-cam engine is also reliable, but parts are much more readily available, and therefore cheaper. Remember to check the radiator as cooling is essential in a car as quick as the Europa.

RUNNING GEAR

Gearboxes can need attention with the Europa, often requiring maintenance due to the manner in which the linkages are placed in the car. Kits can be bought to improve this, although these can be expensive and fiddly to fit. A wide gearbox gate might feel unusual and a whining from it can be disastrous as it could mean bearing failure.

INTERIOR

Lotus is not famed for its interior fit and finish, and it shows in the Europa. Original windscreens are prone to leaks which can result in the wood finish swelling and cracking.

Check if the windscreen has been replaced otherwise you may have to steel yourself for wet instruments and ill-fitting wood trim. Other potential headaches include electrical faults caused by poor earthing, as well as water ingress through badly bonded windscreens.

OUR VERDICT

The Lotus Europa has always been something of an acquired taste. While the car has its supporters, the unconventional bodyshape means that it never quite achieved the more conventional widespread popularity of the Elan and +2.

The original Europa was produced between 1966 and 1975, with styling by a pre-Black and Decker workmate Ron Hickman, at the time a director of Lotus engineering. Not only was the boxy shape radical for its time, but with a drag coefficient of just 0.29cd, it was wickedly fast. Series 1 cars were powered by a 82bhp Renault-derived engine, but serious fun could still be had since it only weighed 610kg. Series 1s are rare these days, but Series 2 cars are more readily available. There are also special editions such as the John Player Special models, which commemorated Lotus’s Grand Prix campaigns.

In total, almost 9000 Europas were eventually produced, with many cars being sold in the US. This means the car is a relatively rare sight in the UK.

The Europa has aged gracefully, and while it isn’t classically beautiful, there still nothing else like it on the road. Looks go an awfully long way with sports cars such as these. Luckily, the car comes with bags of character as standard.

Taller customers may have to look elsewhere, as the inside of the Europa is bestdescribed as being ‘condensed’. Being mid-engined, it handles superbly, but be prepared to sacrifice storage space for performance. But who buys a Lotus with practicality in mind anyway?

While not super-rare, Europas are still pretty uncommon, with prices for even the worst examples heading into five figures.
A perfect Europa comes at a hefty premium.

DAF 33 REVIEW

DAF

Launched in 1967, the Daf 33 was an uprated and lightly facelifted version of the earlier Daf Daffodil. The name change brought the model into line with Daf’s larger 44 model. The flat twin and Variomatic box gave them a unique driving experience and loyal following, though mechanics scared of changed would dismiss the Variomatic system as overly complex. The 33 was discontinued when Volvo bought DAF in 1974, while the larger 66 was rebranded as a Volvo. Nowadays they make a great compact and economical classic buy.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine 746cc, 2-cyl, OHV

Power 28bhp @ 4200rpm

Torque 40lb ft @ 2700rpm

Top speed 69mph

0-60mph 17sec

Economy 45mpg

Gearbox Variomatic

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

The bodywork’s made of quite a heavy-gauge steel, so they’re fairly rust resistant for a 60s design. One owner we spoke to had only encountered significant corrosion on one 33, and that had been sitting in a field for several decades! The floorpans can corrode through if water’s allowed to pool in them, while it’s good practice on any classic to check the lower extremities of the shell for scabs. So wheelarches, door bottoms and door tops, lower wings and valances should all be on your checklist. The leading edge of the bonnet can pick up chips and rot, and the lower screen surround is a water trap which needs to be handled with care. Beware wings are welded on and scarce secondhand, so repairs must be made in situ. Suspension mounting points and A-posts are crucial checks too on 33s, as they’re the two biggest troublespots.

ENGINE & GEARBOX

The engine and Variomatic transmission are both largely reliable in service, with the engine singled out for particular praise. There are no gaskets to worry about, an alloy head and block ensure adequate sealing between all faces without the need for gaskets, so you don’t need to check if they’re intact. The pushrod tubes can leak oil, and on very high mileage cars the bores can wear. The sign of this is an oily engine bay – oil’s forced out when the bore wear is sufficient to pressurize the crankcase. But they burn efficiently and worn units are few and far between.

RUNNING GEAR

Watch for corrosion on the working faces of the Variomatic cones – slight corrosion can cause belt wear, while more serious corrosion will necessitate replacement of the units. Some have tried repairs with chemical metal to ying degrees of success, so this may be an option if new units cannot be found. As for the belts themselves, they can deform and harden over time, and if there’s no recent belt history with the car you’ll need to budget about £105 for their replacement. Even new belts can stretch, so take it as a given that you’ll need to adjust the belts of any DAF you purchase. Because of how Variomatic works, there’s no differential to worry about either.

INTERIOR

Right hand drive specific parts might be tricky to source, because while the UK was a large export market there are very few left. However, Essex Dafs have broken numerous rhd Dafs which have been too far gone to save, and so secondhand parts are generally available. Interiors do tend to be hard wearing, and being fairly plain vinyl affairs retrimming old seats shouldn’t pose an issue.

ELECTRICS

The big one is the heater. The heater is powered by a brace of heat exchangers around the front exhaust downpipes, and when these pipes corrode they can supply exhaust gases including carbon monoxide direct to the cabin. If the car has an exhaust blow from this area, the only options are repair or replacement and repair involves stripping the heat extractors. Replacements are not cheap! Barring this, the electrical systems in Daf 33s are simple and reliable; you should have no troubles here.

OUR VERDICT

A small cheap classic, ideal for town toddling or for those classic fans at a space premium, the Daf 33 makes for a fantastic alternative to a Mini. A tiny car designed for the tall Dutch, it’ll take four adults and their luggage in comfort. The thrill of accelerating with no change in engine pitch will never get old either. Near perfect weight distribution means they also handle rather tidily, and you’ll always draw the crowds when you stop!

DAF VARIOMATIC REVIEW

DAF

The Daf car was introduced at the Amsterdam motor show in 1958. It was the brainchild of Dr Hub Van Doorne. Hence its name - Van Doorne Automobiel Fabrik. It had a 600 c.c. aircooled flat twin engine of Daf design, very rugged.

This drove the rear wheels via a very special automatic and infinitely iable transmissin system involving belt drive. There was no gearbox as such and no differential either. The system proved very successful and provided true two pedal motoring. Originally the public was suspicious of the novel system, expecting the ious components to be fragile, especially the rubber compound belts. The fears proved to be completely unfounded as the cars gave exceptionally good service even when neglected. The first cars were offed for sale in 1959 and the cars remained in production with improvements and new models from time to time until 1975 when manufacturing rights were transferred to Volvo. The Volvo 343 of 1976 had been intended to be the next model of Daf and the "Variomatic" transmission as it was called was continued in this car. The system was optionally available in some Volvo models until 1991. The CVT system now used by some manufacturers is essentially a modern development of the Daf system which proved so foolproof for over thirty years. There is a flourishing owner club with enthusiastic membership and a very good website.

CLASSIC CAR REVIEWS - LOTUS EXCEL

Lotus

No doubt about it: the Lotus Excel is one of the true forgotten greats. It may have been little more than a heavily tweaked Eclat, but the modern touches employed by design genius, Peter Stevens (whose CV includes such luminaries as the McLaren F1, M100 Lotus Elan and 555-liveried Subaru Impreza WRC) brought the car bang up to date for the 1980s, thanks to the smoother nose and wider-looking body.
Marque snobs tend to sneer at this, somewhat, but considering the much-lauded Ferrari 355 is really nothing more than an extensively re-designed 348, this hardly seems fair.
It’s certainly a very handsome car; the rear is a
little bulky-looking, perhaps, but from every other angle it’s at least a match for some of its rather more famous siblings.
And boy, does it go well. The surprisingly popular SA (which used a tried and tested ZF self-shifting gearbox) is perhaps the obvious anachronism in the line-up, but the manuals, with their Lotus-designed 2.2-litre naturally aspirated engines are sports cars through and through.
The Lotus Excel’s interior is very much of an era. It feels right, from the low-set driving position and high-set transmission tunnel, to the feel of the chunky three-spoke steering wheel, but in terms of style, you can do better.
If you can get past the questionable aesthetics, however, the Excel, well, excels in pretty much every other respect. It may lack the neck-snapping urge of a blown Esprit, but Lotus founder, Colin Chapman’s maxim of ‘simplify and add lightness’ certainly applies here: 180bhp (on later cars at least) in a car that weighs comfortably less than 1200kg is always going to feel rapid, and with maximum power coming on song at a gloriously screaming 6500rpm, every journey is hugely entertaining.
And this is a Lotus, of course, so you can pretty much guarantee that the handling will be epic
Lotus may be an acronym of Lots Of Trouble Usually Serious to blinkered badge snobs who really ought to change the record, but bag a sound example, and you’ll end up with one of today’s genuine performance car bargains.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

1 The Excel was always marketed as a sports car, but while you’d therefore expect a degree of engine and road noise at speed, the Excel can border on the unbearable, since Lotus was notoriously tight-fisted with the amount of sound-deadening it fitted at the factory. Don’t let this put you off an otherwise healthy and sound car, however, since modern sound-deadening can be retro-fitted relatively easily (and relatively inexpensively, if you shop around), especially in the doors.

2 Ask any owner of a 1980s Lotus, and they’ll tell you that the biggest headache these cars present concerns electrics. Dashboard gauges (the fuel and oil pressure gauges seem to be the guiltiest parties) can tell all sorts of lies if a sender connection is either badly earthed, corroded or loose.
If all else fails, it’s worth checking the major earthing point located on the brake pedal box, since many of theelectrical harness systems and engine electrics are earthed here.

3 Juddering from any car’s steering at low speeds should always be investigated as a matter of course, since it’s usually indicative of something seriously awry. Where the Excel is concerned, however, chances are it’s all part and parcel of the car’s inherent design. For reasons best known to Lotus, the Excel’s steering geometry was designed intentionally without any form of front-wheel Ackerman angle. So the two front wheels lack the geometry whereby they describe differing arcs as the steering wheel is turned to ensure their perpendicular angle meets the rear axle line at the same point., meaning low-speed manoeuvres in an Excel can be disconcertingly scrabbly and juddery affairs, especially on loose surfaces. It sounds alarming, but the factory insisted from the outset that the Excel’s high-speed handling and steering feel was much improved as a result of this idiosyncrasy. They are pointy but ‘alive’ in your hands at speed.

4 Like many Lotus models before it, the Excel relied heavily on out-sourced parts throughout its construction, meaning tracking down spares is easier than usual. Some are obvious – the tail lights are inverted Rover SD1 units, for instance. Naturally the moisture drain holes are therefore placed incorrectly, so they can fill up with dirt and mould. Other details are less obvious; following Toyota’s involvement of Lotus in the development of its Supra sports coupé, the Mk2 Supra’s W58 manual transmission was used in early Excels (albeit in conjunction with a Lotus bellhousing), together with the driveshafts and differential. Similarly, the clutch master cylinder is shared with the Toyota Carina Mk2 and various Celicas, while the pop-up headlight motors are also used on the Mk1 Toyota MR2.

5 The Excel’s 2.2-litre slant-four Type 912 engine is generally a fairly robust unit, but again can suffer from iffy electrics. A persistent misfire and/or stalling may be traced back to fuel starvation issues, but it’s not unheard of for the distributor’s pick-up wire to create similar problems. Replacing an original or cheap after-market distributor is generally thought to be a good place to start when attempting to rectify a poor-running Excel engine.

6 You won’t suffer any rust issues with that Oliver Winterbottom-designed (and for the Excel, Peter Stevens-tweaked) wedge-shaped GRP body, of course, but look carefully for common related issues. Star cracks, crazing, mis-matched paintwork and impact damage all suggest less than kid-glove treatment.

7 Poor front seats? Those from the contemporary Jaguar XJS slot right in, using the existing seat runners. They are slightly narrower but much easier to find.

OUR VERDICT
Think ‘1980s Lotus’, and most people instantly picture the Esprit turbo. That’s a shame, but it does mean that Excel values, have remained super-low for many years. Silly-priced ultra-low milers still pop up every now and then, but the fact remains that even mint Excels won’t set you back by much more than £6000 – and that’s from a dealer. Lower your sights a little, and you can still bag a perfectly good example for around £4000.
The interiors – of earlier cars in particular – might make you wince a little, with their ruched leather and faux wood trim, but get one onto a tricky back road with lots of dips and blind cambers, and you’ll soon learn to tune it out as you exploit these cars’ legendary performance and handling.
Is the Excel one of the performance car bargains of the decade? We certainly think so.

  Lotus

  Excel

DAF 55 & 56

DAF

The four-cylinder DAFs – the 55 and the 66 – may be quirky, but they offer a very intelligent solution to city transportation...

Misunderstood for decades as a ticking technical time bomb, the DAF family is, in reality, far from being so. Known as the easiest car in the world to drive when new, these Dutch-built city cars are equally simple to live with and maintain.

Launched in 1967, the DAF 55 was a four-cylinder version of the two-cylinder 44 – itself a Michelotti-styled redesign of the older 750 model. Coupled to the Renault-sourced powerplant was DAF’s version of the automatic gearbox – the Variomatic.

With De Dion rear suspension and a facelift in 1972, the 66 was born. This lived out its final days as the Volvo 66, following a takeover by the Swedish firm.

VITAL STATISTICS

DAF 66

Engine 1289cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm) 47bhp@5200rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 73lb ft@3000rpm

Top speed 89mph

0-60mph 19.8sec

Consumption 35mpg

Gearbox Automatic

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

As you’d expect from a steel-bodied classic from the ’60s and ’70s, DAFs can rot readily. Corrosion targets the lower sections of the bodywork in particular, so pay close attention to the floorpans and chassis members. Sill strength is crucial, so try to assess how well any repairs were carried out – like many lower-value classics, cheap repairs were a fact of life. Door bottoms and rear quarters are likely to have suffered on rough examples, as will wings and wheelarches. Replacement panels are hard to come by, although keeping an ear to the ground within the club, or shopping in the Netherlands, can yield results.

ENGINE

The water-cooled Renault engine was used in various cars and is renowned for taking hard use in its stride. Fitted to the DAF 55 in 1108cc form, the 66 offered the option of a larger 1289cc unit. Watch for oil being burned in high-mileage units, which points to valve guide wear or excessive bore wear. Ensure the cooling system isn’t clogged up, and that service intervals have been adhered to.

As a car suited to town driving, low-mileage DAFs will have been used with plenty of choke and insufficient time to get up to temperature. As a result, sluggish performance may be due to the valves being coated in carbon and not seating properly – a simple de-coke should restore power.

RUNNING GEAR

The Variomatic transmission is a remarkable design, but there’s no reason why it should be feared and a competent home mechanic should be able to keep the simple system in check. A test-drive will ensure the transmission functions as well as it should in forward and reverse. A vacuum system is at the heart of the Variomatic, controlling ratio changes. If the transmission fails to work correctly, then there is a good chance that one of the system’s pipes or diaphragms is at fault.

The 55 used twin drive-belts in conjunction with swinging arm rear suspension, while the 66 utilised only one belt with a De Dion set-up. Clunking while on the move is most likely due to the car having been sitting for a long while, resulting in the highly tensioned drive-belts taking an oval shape rather than remaining flexible. The club can supply new drive-belts for both models.

INTERIOR

Interior trim and exterior fittings can cause a headache if anything is missing or damaged, due to the scarcity of replacements. Secondhand items occasionally turn up, but be prepared for a lot of searching. Re-trimming could be the only solution to an interior in poor condition.

The Volvo version of the 66 featured heavily modified fittings, from its quad-lamp grille and heftier bumpers to modified seating. With only a handful of Volvo 66s still surviving in the UK, any parts which are unique to the model will be even more difficult to replace. Ensure that everything is present and correct on the car you’re inspecting.

OUR VERDICT

Combining Euro urban chic with surprising usability, the four-cylinder DAFs have a lot to offer. The mix of unburstable Renault power with that ingenious transmission means that either 55 or 66 makes a sensible, yet individual choice of usable classic. With values still low, now is the time to buy – before collectors start to realise their true worth.

LOTUS ELITE/ECLAT (1974-83) REVIEW

Fancy a classic Lotus wedge? Chris Randall helps you choose the best...

Lotus founder Colin Chapman could never be accused of lacking ambition. In 1970, he outlined plans for a new range of cars, which would ultimately evolve into the production in 1974 of the Lotus Elite Type 75 (to distinguish it from the earlier Elite Type 14) and the fastback Eclat a year later. Both models suffered from high prices compared with their opposition, so final production numbers were somewhat below Chapman’s expectations, but today these stylish cars are available for very tempting prices.

Owning a Lotus has always been about the driving experience and with the marque a byword for superb handling, these front-engine models don’t disappoint. As long as the suspension is in good fettle, an Elite or Eclat offers tenacious grip allied to a well-controlled ride, making them a fine choice for covering long distances in comfort. Accurate and responsive steering and feelsome brakes add to the enjoyment, and allow you to make the most of the performance on offer.

The 2.0-litre engine boasted a useful 155bhp and 135lb ft of torque, resulting in a car capable of cracking the 0-60mph sprint in just eight seconds before topping out at 125mph. The engine needs revving to get the best out of it, though, with maximum power not arriving until you’re past 6000rpm, so the extra torque of the later 2.2-litre unit makes for less frenetic progress.

As well as looking great - thanks to the pen of talented designer, Oliver Winterbottom - the Elite is also practical with its 2+2 seating layout and glass hatchback; the Eclat made do with a smaller and less useful boot opening. Space in the back is a bit tight and adults probably wouldn’t have wanted to spend much time there despite what period adverts would have had you believe, but things are much better up front. Sitting close to the floor in comfortably reclined and bolstered seats, and faced by an imposing dashboard, the view out through the steeply raked windscreen to the low, low nose is pure sports car.

It’s just how a Lotus should be.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine 1973cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power 155bhp@6600rpm

Torque 135lb ft@5000rpm

Top speed 125mph

0-60mph 8.1secs

Economy 22mpg

Gearbox 5-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

1. The Elite was the first model to use the innovative VARI (Vacuum Assisted Resin Injection) process for the GRP bodywork, and quality was high so it lasts well. Even so, check the condition carefully looking for cracks and accident damage and signs of star crazing as repairs will likely need professional attention. And bear in mind that a top-notch respray won’t be cheap due to the preparation required.

2. The chassis on the other hand needs closer examination as rot is common, and can cost a fortune to put right. They were un-galvanized prior to May 1980 so check carefully, focusing on the areas around the engine and steering rack mounts, the front cross-member, and the differential. The rear cross-member is another rot-spot, not helped by the sound proofing material above it which absorbs moisture allowing it to corrode away unseen. You’re looking at body removal if it’s bad, and while a new chassis can be had for around £2000 the labour cost is substantial. And check the condition of the windscreen as leaks are common due to failed bonding; the anodized exterior trims are easily damaged during removal which is the only cure.

3. Both 2.0- and 2.2-litre (from 1980) engines are more reliable than you might think, but proper care is the key to longevity. The former can suffer from cracked exhaust manifolds, while all engines need checking for oil leaks as perished seals and gaskets can make curing them a depressingly common occurrence. Radiators and water pumps can be a weak spot as well and ignoring coolant loss risks head gasket failure. And regular cambelt changes are crucial, especially on early engines that used a square-toothed belt that can jump on starting the engine. You’ll find Dellorto carbs on most engines, and fuel can leak from split diaphragms with an obvious risk of fire. A full engine re-build isn’t cheap either, so be wary of mechanical basket cases.

4. The early Austin Maxi-derived gearbox was a bit weak for the job and parts are getting rare, although the later Getrag item was better. Check for the usual signs of weak synchromesh and obstructive shifts. More troublesome is the cable-operated clutch; the cable runs round a pulley which can seize, causing the cable to snap. A hydraulic set up can be retro-fitted, at a cost. Otherwise, it’s a case of checking for clunking UJs, whines and oil leaks from the differential that can contaminate the inboard rear brakes, and noisy rear wheel bearings (they are Maxi items) which are a common issue.

5. Worn wishbone and anti-roll bar bushes are the usual extent of suspension problems, although a complete overhaul can get pricey. However, a support pin for the rear wishbones, located at the differential, can shear and worn front trunnions are common. Check for corrosion of suspension parts and around the mountings, too. Steering-wise, look for PAS fluid leaks from the pump and rack while stiffness can be a sign that the steering column UJ is seizing. The main problem with the brakes is the inboard rear drums which are a pain to service and often get overlooked, so ensure they are operating okay.

6. Trim materials weren’t especially robust, and the pale fabrics are easily soiled, so don’t be surprised if the cabin is a bit tatty. And while most parts are available, bear in mind that refurbishment is a pricey business. It’s not unusual to find water damage either; condensation will damage the roof lining, causing it to sag, and will also play havoc with the electrics so check everything works. And the wiper mechanism can be troublesome, and a proper fix can require dashboard removal leading to some being bodged. Lastly, check the pop-up headlamps are working properly; they used a vacuum system and sorting problems with the solenoids and pipework can be a frustrating business.

OUR VERDICT

The combination of sharp looks and impressive dynamics are very tempting but care is needed as the Elite/Eclat can hide the sort of problems that risk laying waste to both bank account and sanity. A good one, on the other hand, will be a very special experience indeed, so get specialist advice before taking the plunge.

Prices for the Elite and Eclat are pretty similar, with the former edging it perhaps, but it mainly comes down to preference. That and condition, which is the most important thing when considering either model. Interest and values were low at one time but that’s beginning to change as the Lotus wedge models become more sought after, but while cheap examples are out there a full restoration will never make financial sense. Think very carefully before taking on a project.

LOTUS ELAN SPRINT REVIEW

Lotus

The most potent of the original Elans; the Sprint needs buying with care...

The pedals are close together, so care is needed. Once on the move, the engine delivers plenty of power with a wonderful barking engine note. The slick gearchange is a delight, allowing you to keep the engine at peak power. It’s the handling that astonishes though. It’s so light to control yet so uncannily good in the bends. Grip levels truly amaze, while the steering keeps you informed clearly about how you are doing. Push it too much in the wet and yes, the rear end can get lively. You’ll want to push it though, just because of how good it feels; the Elan quickly becomes addictive.

VITAL STATISTICS

1970-1973 Lotus Elan Sprint

Engine 1558cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm) 126bhp@6500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 113lb ft@5500rpm

Top speed 118mph

0-60mph 7sec

Consumption 25mpg

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

The biggest problem is knowing if a Sprint is genuine. It’s very easy to make a non-Sprint look like a Sprint, as paintwork was generally the only clue. Club Lotus holds details of the original chassis records, so can help on this score. That said, Lotus itself converted some S4s into Sprints – the Sprint was really only a run-out model to shift Elans once the new Europa had arrived.

Make sure that the headlamps pop-up as they should. They are vacuum operated, using the chassis front crossmember as a reservoir. Check the nose carefully for stonechips. Finding an Elan on its original chassis is increasingly unlikely, though it may command a premium – as long as it isn’t rotten. Ideally, you need to be able to get under the car to take a thorough look.

You can still get a replacement chassis from Lotus for about £1800, though by the time it is fitted, you could end up spending £8000 or more as you really need to refresh the mechanicals and all suspension bushes while you are at it.

The windscreen frames can suffer, especially on a restoration project. Make sure it isn’t prone to movement on a drophead – which the vast majority of Sprints are. Make sure you check the hood for condition – easily forgotten if checking a car on a sunny day. Check that the windows operate smoothly.

Some Sprint coupés have been converted into dropheads. This generally isn’t a problem, due to that strong, backbone chassis, but can affect values. The chassis number is the giveaway – again, Club Lotus can help confirm what the specification was when it left the factory. Sprints also had the bulged bonnet fitted. In addition, improved bonnet catches were used.

ENGINE

The Sprint engine features a two per cent increase in power over standard Elans. The Big Valve engines are clearly labelled as such. They’re fairly tough as engines go, but can burn a little oil, so the odd puff of blue exhaust smoke is generally considered normal. Watch for leaks from the water pump, as the cylinder head must be removed to replace it.

An electric cooling fan is fitted, so make sure it isn’t trying to run all of the time once up to temperature. It should cut in as required. An engine rebuild will likely cost around £4000, so listen out for big end knocks and be concerned if clouds of blue smoke are produced.

Gearboxes are generally hardy, with a delightful, precise action. Crunchy changes suggest either a dragging clutch or weak synchromesh. A very few late cars had a five-speed gearbox.

RUNNING GEAR

The rear suspension originally used rubber doughnuts, like a MkII Triumph Vitesse. As with the Triumph, there were supply issues a few

years ago, but you can now get quality replacements. It’s generally the preferred option, though some have converted to sliding or CV joints. Listen out for creaks or rattles from the
rear end and if you can, check the differential mountings.

Suspension condition is very important. These were a ground-breaking car when new in the handling department, and they should still feel exceptionally good today. A car that feels skittish or bouncy probably needs new dampers.

INTERIOR

Inside, most trim is available but seat frames can be a problem. Give them a good wiggle to check that they aren’t broken or loose. Later Sprints had the key on the steering column rather than the dashboard. Make sure all of the dashboard gauges work correctly.

OUR VERDICT

With rising values, now really is the time to buy. It seems wrong to see a car such as the Elan as an investment though. It’s from behind the wheel that the Elan really delivers pleasure, with its age-defying performance and handling.

CITROËN 2CV REVIEW

Citroen

Loved and loathed in equal measure, but prices for the venerable Citroen 2CV 'tin snail' are nevertheless in the ascendancy.

At nearly 3.9 million cars sold, the 2CV may not be quite the mega-seller it’s often made out to be, but it’s still pretty ubiquitous. Ubiquity doesn’t always translate into lowly prices, though – values solidified shortly after its demise in 1990 and prices of good ones have been increasing steadily ever since.

You certainly don’t buy one for an electrifying driving experience, but as a practical, good value and well-known starter classic, it has few peers.

Here’s how to buy the best.

VITAL STATISTICS

Citroën 2CV

Engine 602cc/2-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm) 29bhp@5750rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 30.5lb ft@3500rpm

Top speed 71mph

0-60mph 32.7sec

Consumption 45.9mpg

Gearbox 4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

This was a cheap car built from average steel with negligible factory rust-proofing and no real intention of it lasting much more than a few years, so it’s hardly surprising that these cars can – and do – rust with the best of them.

Thankfully, parts back-up is exceptional for all models bar the earliest corrugated panel examples, and major items such as the doors, bootlid, bonnet and wings are easily replaced.

More serious rust develops in the floor, front and rear bulkheads, around the windscreen and at the base of the A-, B- and C-pillars. The seam above the rear wings is a further common rot-spot.

Don’t dismiss uneven panel gaps as a minor problem, either, since this can be indicative of a terminally corroded frame beneath a superficially tidy body. Wherever possible, it’s always a good idea to get a good look at a prospective purchase’s underside – ideally on a service ramp.

ENGINE

Unless you’ve set your heart on a very early car (or enjoy driving everywhere at walking pace), it’s usually best to stick to the later (1968-on) 602cc models, which develop a dizzying 33bhp (29bhp after 1979).

Whichever engine you opt for, however, you’ll be looking at knife-and-fork mechanics, so trouble-shooting should be straightforward. Keep a weather eye out for the usual issues when starting from cold – reluctance to start, lumpy idling, blue or black exhaust smoke – and be sure to take it out on a test-drive. A persistent misfire can usually be traced back to an electrical problem – check plugs, leads, dynamo, contact breaker points, coil wire, etc. – but could also indicate low compression, and therefore an engine in need of imminent work.

These engines are notorious for oil leaks, not least around the front and rear of the block, often as a result of perished crankshaft seals. Being air-cooled, too, the cooling system needs to be up to scratch, so cars fitted with an electric fan are desirable.

RUNNING GEAR

All 2CVs are almost absurdly softly sprung, so consider this a characteristic rather than a fault. Excessive wandering can sometimes be down to badly corroded suspension mounting points or badly balanced wheels – either will drastically increase tyre wear, too – an obvious clue.

The brakes are unstressed, but will judder and cause the car to pull to one side if in need of replacement. Tread carefully if the rear brakes require attention, as this is a job is straightforward only if you have access to specialist tools.

Cars fitted with disc brakes – usually post-’82 – must only ever use LHM (liquide hydraulique minerale). Filling a disc-brake car with the more common DOT brake fluid accelerates O-ring/seal deterioration, and can finish the calipers and brake master cylinder off completely. Similarly, earlier models should only ever be filled with DOT fluid.

Be suspicious if the clutch adjustment screw on the bellhousing is nearing the end of its reach – it’s probably ripe for replacement. The gearbox itself is relatively simple, but look out for crunching on second and third gear, indicating worn synchromesh.

You’ll be lucky to find a car sporting a chassis hasn’t been either repaired or replaced. A new complete chassis can be had for around £700.

INTERIOR

Upholstery refurb kits are available for less than £200, with new hoods going for around £250. The hood requires close examination as older examples can allow water ingress, with an inevitable adverse effect on the seats and carpets. Check also for perished door and window rubbers.

Instrumentation is basic on all models and can be refurbished by independent specialists at minimal cost. Other switchgear is still obtainable from specialist breakers, but parts for very early cars are virtually non-existent now.

OUR VERDICT

Few cars this side of a VW Beetle have as much character as a 2CV, and if you’re looking to buy into a relaxed lifestyle, rather than invest in something to use on trans-continental tours, then the tin snail is hard to beat. Mechnically straightforward and blessed with terrific parts back-up, the charming 2CV – and the later 602cc cars in particular – are fun to drive and surprisingly practical. You can run one on a relatively shoestring budget, too.