LOTUS ELISE REVIEW

If ever a car adhered strictly to Colin Chapman’s ‘simplify, then add lightness’ maxim, then the Lotus Elise is definitely it. We consider buying one as a classic proposition today

Conceived as the spiritual successor to the Lotus Elan, the Elise ripped up the rule book for a new generation of sports car wannabes in 1996. Compact mid-engined sportsters were nothing new at the time (the Toyota MR2 had been around since 1984 and Fiat/Bertone X1/9 production had stopped only seven years previously), but the Elise came as a flyweight bolt from the blue after years of development of the weighty Esprit and the opinion-polarising M100 Elan.

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VITAL STATISTICS

LOTUS ELISE

Engine                                    1796cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  118bhp@5500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 122lb ft@3000rpm

Top speed                                125mph

0-60mph                                   5.8sec

Consumption                            39.8mpg

Gearbox                                    5-speed manual

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WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

For once, the word ‘rust’ will be largely absent here, since the Elise comprises a GRP tub that’s been allied to a chassis made from lightweight bonded aluminium extrusions.

The usual GRP checks apply, however. Mismatched paint or evidence of overspray signifies that body repairs have been made at some point. Check for crazing or star-cracks in the gelcoat, too.

That low nose renders the front foglights vulnerable to stone-chip damage. Given that repair involves the replacement of the entire unit (and the removal of the front clamshell), this can be costly. Corroded headlight reflectors should be replaced as a matter of course, too.

ENGINE

Series 1 cars used Rover’s oft-maligned K-series 1.8-litre 16-valve engine, so job number one should involve checking that both the original cylinderhead gasket and inlet manifold gasket have been replaced with later, uprated items. If they haven’t, they’re living on borrowed time.

The K-series engine is generally oil-tight, but it’s still worth checking the area around the crankshaft, as the sealing rings can fail. Puddles of fluid inside the undertray, or oil stains around the bottom of the engine, always warrant closer investigation.

Being mid-engined, the Elise’s cooling system works extremely hard, so check for failure of the coolant header tank cap, a blocked or damaged radiator and the tightness of the coolant pipe clips. The last of these can prove so weak that it will allow a pipe to actually burst off its mounting, with inevitable consequences.

RUNNING GEAR

Elises are popular with the track day fraternity, so it’s imperative that you check for evidence of any ‘offs’. Damaged (or missing) undertrays can be indicative of repeated sharp contact with speed humps, but might also have been caused by a high-speed exit from the bottom of the Craner Curves. The car should not be driven with the central undertray removed. A rattling sound from the front of the car is usually either from play in the steering rack (with outright replacement usually the only answer) or worn nylon anti-roll bar pivot blocks. 

Less seriously, the rack’s protective rubber gaiters have a habit of degrading, especially on cars that are used all year round. Play in the wheel itself is usually as a result of worn or broken ball-joints.

A suddenly obstructive gearshift action may be gearbox related, but early cars’ red hydraulic clutch pipes, which can expand and lose pressure when hot, create similar problems. Later cars were fitted with a braided pipe that solved the problem at a stroke.

INTERIOR

That lovely-looking aluminium trim is easily scratched and can eventually start to look really shabby. There’s not much you can do about this, so haggle on the price accordingly.

Vertical movement in the seats is often indicative of loose or missing retaining bolts. These should be tightened or replaced and then secured with a dab of threadlock. Stiff or non-operative windows are usually caused by loose or missing screws in the winding mechanism.

Indicator/wiper stalks are known to fail, too – but since they’re shared with various period Vauxhalls, locating replacements is currently easy and cheap.

Other common Elise irritants include sticking and/or squeaking clutch and accelerator pedals. The former is down to the flawed design of early cars’ pedal trunnions (modified after July 1999), while the latter is commonly as a result of a heat-damaged plastic throttle body. Upgrading to a metal body will solve the problem.

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OUR VERDICT

Simple: for its otherwordly handling. Nothing this side of a Caterham offers the sort of housefly-nimble road-holding that a sorted Elise musters for the same sort of money.

The car’s inherent lightness makes even the K-Series 1.8 engine feel super-quick, while the close ratio gearbox and super-responsive steering merely enhance what is an already mind-blowing driving experience.

CLASSIC CAR REVIEWS - MASERATI 3200-GT

The 3200 GT was a return to form for Maserati in 1998, but has the beautiful Italian aged well? 

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VITAL STATISTICS

MASERATI 3200 GT

ENGINE 3217/V8/DOHC

POWER 370bhp@6250rpm

TORQUE 362lb ft@4500rpm

TOP SPEED 174mph

0-60MPH 5.12sec

ECONOMY 16mpg

WEIGHTS AND MEASURES

HEIGHT 130.6cm (51.4in)

WIDTH 182.1cm (71.7in)

LENGTH 451.1cm (177.6in)

WHEELBASE 265.9cm (105.7in)

KERB WEIGHT 1587kg (3499lb)

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AT THE WHEEL

It would perhaps be a slight understatement to say - especially in the earliest manual models - the GT suffers with slight sensitivity issues. Anyone somewhat heavy footed on the accelerator is going to find themselves pinned back in their seats (after the turbo delay) as the Maserati unleashes its 370bhp, smashing past 60mph in just over 5 seconds. To get a smooth drive requires a delicate touch. Not only do you need to be gentle with your feet, you need quick hands on the wheel, as the Maserati ensure its traction control works overtime, keeping very much in touch with its sporty nature – especially in the wet. It takes some skill to get a leash on the GT, and even more to be able to let it loose. If you can handle it, the GT rewards with rollercoaster like thrills alongside a raw, sporty, adrenaline filled driving experience.

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WHAT TO LOOK FOR

1 The exhaust back boxes on the 3200 GT have been known to rot, so make sure you check their condition and if they have ever been changed. Directly from Maserati a replacement can set you back over £1000, but independent businesses can provide and fit for about £800.

2 There is one particularly regular fault concerning the Maserati 3200 GT, the throttle body. Considering the sensitivity of the throttle inthe first place this issue can leave the vehicle almost impossible to drive safely. Due to poor design the throttle body narrows the margin between idle and full throttle with use, this is in fact an issue with the majority of Maserati 3200 GT’s out there. This can be solved by an engine reset, or in the worst case scenario a replacement throttle body which could cost you up to about £380.

3 Maserati V8 starter motors suffer from some problems, mainly due to their position within the V8 and the fact it isn’t best suited for use in a V8 vehicle. Water from minor leaks from the coolant distribution pipes underneath the inlet manifold can often cause the motor to fill with water, so make sure you take a good look in there. A new starter motor will put you back £149.

4 The 3200 GT is oil thirsty, so ensure that the previous owner has been regularly changing the oil, perhaps even more so than is recommended by the manufacturer. It is also important that they have been using synthetic oil, preferably Selenia Racing oil – which is perfect for turbo V8 Maserati’s.

5 Another regular part of maintenance on the 3200 GT is the cam belt, which should be changed somewhere around every 18,000 miles. Check to see when the belt was last replaced. Another problem can occur due to the necessity for the regular changing of the cam belt regarding the radiator. The Maserati radiator is actually quite robust, but the changing of the cam belt can aggravate the joint between the lower water pipe and the side tank, sometimes causing it to crack.

6 On the inside things should be looking pretty good as the interior is pretty hardy, although the lighter leather may be looking a little grubby. If things are looking shabby, then there is a good chance the vehicle hasn’t been looked after properly and the checks you make need to be even more extensive.

7 The tires and bodywork should be in good shape, but then considering the performance capabilities of the 3200 GT it can be predicted that even the hardiest of tires may have had a rough ride and the body may have had a few bumps and bruises, so keep an eye out. Pay particular attention to the rear tyres which are the most likely to be looking worn.

8 Probably the most important factor when checking out a 3200 GT is what the service history is like, you should be looking at a fairly extensive list, if not you have to question the honesty of the seller and the quality of the vehicle. Depending on the mileage you should probably be seeing new brake discs and pads, cam belt changes and multiple oil changes.

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OUR VERDICT

It takes a lot to be an owner of a Maserati 3200 GT. You need money, you need patience and you need a pretty high standard of driving ability to get the best out of the Italian speedster. If you have these things then yes, the 3200 GT is a great investment which will almost definitely fulfil your driving needs, providing fun, adrenaline and speed for fairly expensive running costs. What if you don’t really have those things? Then maybe it’s best to look for a slightly less expensive, less troublesome, less difficult, nippy little speed machine.

WHY SHOULD I BUY ONE? The first Maserati made under the then new owners Ferrari in 1998, the Maserati 3200 GT was designed to score high in the looks department in homage to the 1957 3500 GT, and score high it did. The boomerang styled rear lights and departure from the previous square like styling of preceding Maserati’s ensured that, as far as aesthetics went, the 3200 GT was more than pleasing.  There is no denying that the manual gearbox of the earlier models was unrewarding, and the throttle rather sensitive, but with the right level of driving ability the GT can be tamed into becoming one of the most exciting driving experiences around.

Maserati

CITROËN CX REVIEW

Technological showpiece, style legend: or both? Manufactured from 1974 to 1991, the Citroën CX is widely regarded among enthusiasts as being the last of the true Citroëns, as it was the last car designed before the firm was taken over by Peugeot.

The initials CX refer to the French initials for coefficient of drag, a hint at the huge aerodynamic leap the car had taken over its predecessors and competitors. In addition to the sleek new shape, the CX featured technological advancements that made it one of the most exciting cars of the era including hydro-pneumatic self-leveling suspension, speed-adjustable power steering and sub frame mounted suspension to reduce road noise. The suspension setup on the CX was derived from the DS and went on to be used successfully by Rolls-Royce on the Silver Shadow and Silver Spirit cars. 

VITAL STATISTICS

CITROËN CX

Engine                                    2347cc/8V/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  115bhp@5500rpm 

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 137ft lb@2750rpm

Top speed                                108mph

0-60mph                                  12.4sec

Consumption                           20mpg

Gearbox                                    5-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Early CXs will be more prone to rust than later models, decent rust proofing and higher quality paint was only added in 1980. Check the boot floor for damp, lift any carpets and give it a firm poke. If there is any rust or crustiness, walk away. Feel inside each of the arches for loose rust. Dirt collects easily and the arches will rust from the inside out. Check the bottom of each door, drain holes frequently clog and they tend to go here first. Look for bubbling at the corners of the sunroof; it is a good indication that the roof skin will be rotten.

ENGINE

Check that the service history is comprehensive and that there are no gaps. Providing the car has been well serviced, the engine should outlast the body. Check there is no clutch slip, particularly on manual and turbo versions, where the engine needs to be removed to replace the clutch. 2.5-litre petrol injection engines are prone to flywheel ignition sensor failure. If the rev counter doesn’t move on startup or the car struggles to start when hot, assume it needs to be replaced. Check that coolant has been used and not water, and ensure that there is no oil present. Look for ‘mayonnaise’ around the oil filler cap, walk away if there is any trace.

RUNNING GEAR

Complex hydraulic system can hide a myriad of problems. Check the hydraulic fluid, it should be mineral based and light green in colour. If it is red or brown walk away, it is probably contaminated with Dextron II, which will damage the system. Fire the car up and push down on each corner, there should be a good amount of give. If it feels very firm the shocks may need replacing. Hydraulic pumps can be a weakness. Allow the car to idle and check that the pump activates every 30 seconds or so. If it runs continuously or with more regularity it may suggest a leak in the system. Speed adjustable power steering is fairly reliable, but make sure you take a test drive through a variety of conditions. Check it doesn’t pull to the side under hard braking, CXs are notorious for high levels of front brake wear. Check the jacking points to make sure they’re solid.  

Check rear suspension mounts for rust, and feel under the rubber trim on the lower windscreen surround. If there’s any rust avoid the car.

INTERIOR

Dashboard lights tend to have a mind of their own, but make sure you check them when the car is running. 

It may be gremlins, but assume any warning lights are correct and take heed. Be especially wary of electrical problems in later cars with ABS, they have complex computer systems and problems can be expensive to track down. 

OUR VERDICT

The Citroën CX is to many enthusiasts the last ‘proper’ Citroën. Design is very of its time, and exceptionally modern looking for what is now an aging classic. 

As a statement of style you would be hard pressed to find something more unusual – very much in the Citroën and Saab vein – which now seems to have gone out of fashion. 

The ride is famously smooth, engines reliable, and interiors spacious and comfortable. On top of all this, it seems to be following in the footsteps of the DS and holding its value much better than similar cars of the period.

 If DS values are any indicator, it seems to be one to watch. If you have a minter we suggest you hold onto it, it’s sure to rise in value in the future. 

MASERATI GHIBLI REVIEW

Giorgetto Giugiaro declared it one of his greatest creations; Henry Ford II was the first man in America to own one; and just 125 examples were built. The Maserati Ghibli Spyder was a trendsetting masterpiece that ushered in a new era of waist-high supercars.

Henry was famous for using his Ghibli for commuting to Detroit and would brazenly park it outside in the staff car park. When confronted by a Ford designer about his Maserati ownership, Henry’s response was simple "That Ghibli will only disappear from my parking space when you’ve designed me a Ford that looks just as good."

Now, 44 years on from its launch, the Spyder has matured into a demigod of classic car design, with good examples changing hands in excess of £200,000. The Ghibli’s low slung body, chiselled good looks, free flowing lines and long, long, sloping bonnet offer an idealist vision of a classic grand tourer.

It’s almost impossible to think that it took a young Giorgetto Giugiaro – then working for Ghia coachworks – just three months to design it. The coupé was an instant hit when it was unveiled to the world at the 1966 Turin Motor Show; it was a bold step and provided proof that Maserati was no longer in the business of playing down the looks of its cars.

The Spyder appeared two years later, in 1968. The bodies were manufactured at Ghia and then assembled at the Maserati factory in the same assembly lines as the coupés. Rumours that the Spyders were originally built as coupés, and then modified at Carrozzeria Campana, where quickly rejected by Maserati.

The Ghibli’s five-year production run saw Maserati build 1149 coupés, but just 125 Spyders were built. However, despite the limited number, the Spider represented a massive step forward for Maserati; it had produced an enigmatic classic that would go on to be voted as one of the best looking cars of the century; evidence that Giorgetto had little trouble matching Leonardo Fioravanti when it came to designing beautiful GT cars.

Our Ghibli Spyder was built in 1970, and first sold in the USA before it was shipped to the UK in 1980. It has covered just 35,000 miles in the past 44 years, which makes it a rare and desirable example of GT nostalgia. Swing open its sleek driver’s door and you’re confronted with an interior that’s meticulously well presented. The cabin is decorated in swathes of red leather and as you climb inside, the deep, luscious seats embrace you like a long lost friend. They provide perfect balance between comfort and posture, making them ideal for long distance cruising.

Like its outer skin, the cabin is well sculptured, with symmetrical dials that peer out of the leather like blackened portholes. Being a 1970 example, this car features rocker switches in place of the toggles that featured on the early Spyders, which gives the interior a smarter, more uniformed appearance. The glovebox reveals a comprehensive history file containing information and invoices from renowned marque specialists.

Maserati. A replacement wiper motor here, a reconditioned gearbox there – we even found evidence of work involving recondition ing of the gearbox. This Ghibli has been well looked after, but all the work is testament to general wear and tear. Our investigations into the car’s history show, for the most part, this car is largely original and unrestored.

Turn the key and the V8 engine comes to life with a low, bassy rumble that’s almost lost in the early summer morning air; however, a quick dab of the deep-rooted throttle pedal is all that’s needed to provide a reminder of the 310bhp lurking beneath the bonnet. The 4.7-litre engine is the same version of the four camshaft V8 found in the Quattroporte, but with dry sump lubrication to achieve the bonnet line and improve the centre of gravity. Maserati claimed 310bhp, but never disclosed where the extra 20bhp came from that distinguished this engine from the one used in the Quattroporte.

Featuring a three-speed Borg Warner automatic transmission, the Ghibli requires a gentle but purposeful hand action to activate ‘drive’ and venture out onto the roads of Gloucestershire. The Ghibli utilises a tubular steel chassis featuring independent front suspension and a leaf-sprung live rear axle with single locating arm, which results in a lot of movement at low speeds. In fact, it bounces and hops along the uneven country lanes that surround Cheltenham, but things tend to even out when you find more agreeable asphalt.

Stretching out to more than 15 feet long, and six feet wide, this is a large car, but it doesn’t intimidate. Ironically, the interior is relatively cramped and being a six-footer I find that my head practically rises above the windscreen, which forces me to slouch my body unnaturally back into the seat, poke an elbow on the window frame and embrace the fully laid-back driving style that the Spyder demands.

Thump the throttle, and the V8 responds quickly as the Borg Warner ‘box drops a cog to facilitate the Maserati’s sudden injection of pace. The 4.7-litre V8 provides a wonderful bellowing soundtrack that booms out like an Italian opera star refining his vocal range. The engine reaches its peak at around 5500rpm, while maximum torque is delivered at a relatively lowly 4000rpm, ensuring plenty of mid-range pull.

At speed, the Ghibli is predictable and neutral in its handling, albeit with a hint of understeer. The biggest criticism lies with the power-assisted steering that lacks feel and, at times, leaves the wood-trimmed steering wheel feeling vague in the corners. It isn’t enough to spoil the driving experience, but its ambiguity takes some time to become accustomed to. Thankfully, the same cannot be said for the brakes, which are excellent thanks to twin-servo assisted ventilated discs with three pistons per caliper.

Hit the brakes and the Ghibli lurches to a sudden halt, as the soft springs play catch-up to the sudden lack of movement.

Unlike other cars of its era, however, the Maserati is also surprisingly easy to drive. You can just imagine powering it along a long sweeping coastal road on a glorious summer’s day, with period Van Morrison playing in the background.

VITAL STATISTICS

Ghibli Spyder

Engine            4709cc/V8/DOHC

Power             310bhp@5500rpm

Torque           341lb ft@4000rpm

Top Speed      168mph

0-60mph        6.4sec

ECONOMY      18mpg

Gearbox        3-speed automatic

MASERATI INDY TIPO AM116 SPORTS COUPE C REVIEW

A significant newcomer to the Maserati range came in 1969 with the Indy, a name which had been well earned. Maserati has a great racing history and had won the Indianapolis 500 on two occasions, in 1939 and 1940, a fact which touched Ferrari's nerve since the Maranello concern subsequently mounted several failed attempts to win the '500' themselves. A 2+2 coupe, the Maserati Indy was built on a Quattroporte chassis, slightly shortened and with a wider track. Styled by Vignale, the Indy was a practical four-seater Grand Touring car with a generous internal luggage compartment - a hatchback - which found a world sales market and was capable of carrying four people in excess of 150 mph. First shown to the public on the Vignale stand at the 1968 Turin Motor Show, and officially launched by the Modena company at the 1969 Geneva Show, the Indy finally replaced the outdated six-cylinder Mistral and Sebring. Like the recently phased out Mexico, it was V-8 powered using four Weber carburettors, available in 4.2 and 4.7-litre forms, this time with the addition of a 4.9-litre as well. Not too dissimilar in looks with the headlamps raised to a Ferrari Daytona at the front, and perhaps to the Alfa 2000 GTV at the rear, the Indy featured retractable headlamps and power windows as standard, these cars capable of 155-160mph with manual transmission and the option of automatic and limited slip differential, 1136 cars being produced by the end of production in 1974.

CITROËN DS REVIEW

Nobody had ever seen anything quite like the Citroen DS when it was announced in 1955. The shape was futuristic and aerodynamic, and a complex hydraulic system operated the self-levelling suspension, brakes, steering and semi-automatic gearshift.

With unstressed bolt-on panels, front-wheel drive and inboard disc brakes, the car was technologically light years ahead of its contemporaries. Roadholding was exceptional for the time, too. All this technology did not make the car fragile: the DS went on to become a successful rally machine in later years, and it still stands out as one of the most advanced and interesting cars of the 20th century.

Two problems affected the early cars: the DS19 (with 1911cc four-cylinder engine from the Traction Avant) was underpowered and rather expensive. Undeterred, Citroen introduced the ID19 in 1958, 25% cheaper and lacking the hydraulics for the steering and gearbox. This sold much better. A cavernous Safari estate was added in 1960, and from 1961 Chapron did a delicious "factory" convertible. Power went from 69bhp to 75bhp in 1961, too.

The DS was built at Slough for the UK market from 1956, with a few special features – leather seats, a wooden dash and Lucas electrics (the latter to 1962 only). Just over 8000 cars were built here before the end of 1964; Paris-built cars were finished at Slough during 1965 and then after April 1966 the cars were imported fully-built from Paris or, in some cases, the Brussels factory. The DS19 went to 1985cc (and became a DS20 from September 1969) and there was a new DS21 with 2175cc engine.  Unique to the UK was the 1964-1965 DW – with DS spec but a conventional gearbox.

From 1967, the original frog’s-eye headlamps gave way to quad lamps behind glass, and these swivelled with the steering to light the way round corners. For the 1970 model-year, a more powerful DS21 EFI (with Bosch injection) became available, and a year later there were new Borg Warner automatic and five-speed manual gearboxes. The last increase in engine size was to 2347cc in 1973, creating DS23 and DS23 EFI, the latter with 141bhp.

VITAL STATISTICS

DS21

Engine 2175cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power 106bhp@5500rpm

Torque 123lb ft@3500rpm

Top speed 110mph

0-60mph 12.5sec

Economy 25mpg

Gearbox 5-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

Check as much of the steel skeleton inner shell as you can, such as the side rails against which the doors shut. Bubbles spell more trouble underneath. Get underneath to check the main underfloor box-sections, which rot through because of inadequate drainage, and be warned that underseal often masks problems until it’s too late. Then check the upper surfaces by lifting up the sill trim and the carpets. Back wings can be checked from inside the boot and look for holes in the boot floor too. The bootlid too also traps water inside, thanks to its sponge-like seal. You can always take off the rear wings – they’re held on by one bolt – to have a more thorough check beneath. Then check the metal around the rear suspension sphere mounts. Repairs here can be tricky, time-consuming and expensive.

Check the sills, at either end, or bulging anywhere along the length. Outer panels themselves are quite expensive now, so do check them for corrosion. Front wings go around their bottom rear corners as well as the wheelarches, and the 1968 on cars often have problems around the headlamps. Rear outer wings go around their top and bottom edges. Bonnets are aluminium while roofs on the saloons – but not Safaris or Breaks – are glassfibre. However, water does get underneath.

ENGINE

The engines are all four-cylinder types with simple OHV architecture. They last very well, even though lacklustre performance persuades some owners to thrash them. Replacing the timing chain means taking the engine out, because it's at the back of the block, so ask whether it's been done! If you do need to take the engine out, take the opportunity to do another couple of jobs. One is replacing the clutch plate – an engine-out job on its own. The other is to check and overhaul the inboard front brakes, which are much easier to work on with the engine out of the way.

DS engines hail from the Traction Avant. Cracks in the alloy cylinder head can be common, thanks to poor quality or low anti-freeze. Oil filters need to be fitted properly – the triangle symbol on the casing should line up with the equivalent icon on the sump – otherwise the engine can seize. Check for head gasket problems, often caused by cylinder wet liners sinking into the block. Camshaft seals can leak oil and tappets get noisy and are often left. Thanks to Bosch making the fuel injection system on the EFi cars, it is usually quite reliable, although the flexible fuel pipes can crack and leak.

RUNNING GEAR

With the hydraulic suspension, corroded pipework is really the major issue, so look underneath for signs of coloured fluid escaping. Putting the car suspension up to high will make this easier. Pay attention to the nearside rear wheelarch area and the rear gaiters for leaks. Suspension spheres need recharging periodically, but replacement is not that tricky. Listen to how often the pump clicks; every 20 seconds or so is the norm. On the conventional parts of the suspension, driveshaft joints can wear out – there will be a knocking on full lock – and balljoints need to have been regularly greased to stop them seizing. Clunks from the rear signal rear suspension pushrod wear. Earlier cars have semi-automatic hydraulically-assisted gearboxes and if they go wrong, changes will be difficult. It takes an expert to set them up properly. On the later cars, a whine in fifth gear points to a new differential; replacement is a very involved task. Test the brakes for their efficiency; they should be very, very sharp. The front ones are inboard, and pads can take many hours to change.

Tyres for the DS can be expensive, so check them all carefully – the spare as well. Michelins were always the original fitment (Michelin owned Citroën) but the correct size and type for later cars – 185 x 15 XVS with asymmetric tread – are not always easy to find. Some owners have fitted cheap van tyres as a quick fix. Note that the rear track of a DS was always narrower than the front, to aid handling, so don't assume the wrong tyres have been fitted! In fact, on pre-1970 cars, different tyre sizes were used front and rear, too: metric 165 x 400 at the front and 155 x 400 at the rear.

VERDICT

To be honest, you probably shouldn’t go for a Citroen DS if you’re more at home with conventional engineering. To appreciate the DS, you also have to appreciate a novel approach to automotive design and, seeing as this is a Citroen, also a somewhat stubborn desire to make things quirky just for the hell of it. There’s no denying that these Citroens take more looking after than most classics, and their iconic European status is now being reflected in rising prices. But the rewards are considerable; a driving experience so smooth that it’s like being on a magic carpet, blended with enough eccentricities to keep you constantly amused and bemused.

If you plan to use the car a lot, go for a late DS23 EFI, with five-speed or automatic transmission. But if it's the technological oddities that interest you, try an early car. All models have the full-power hydraulic brakes, but ID models and the 1964-1965 DW have a conventional gearbox and clutch.

MASERATI BITURBO REVIEW

Maserati has produced some incredible cars over the years, but the Biturbo has long been the black sheep of the family. Is its reputation deserved? Read our buyers guide to find out.

If you want a glamorous badge, comfort and serious performance, but you’re almost potless, a Maserati Biturbo could be just the ticket. This grand tourer came in a bewildering array of guises, all of which offer performance and comfort aplenty, but running costs can be high, while good cars are less common than you might think.

The Biturbo debuted in December 1981 as a two-door coupé, with a 180bhp 2.0-litre twin-turbo engine. Available with left-hand drive only, it was joined by the two-tone Biturbo S in 1984. The first of the Biturbo-based four-door saloons, the 420 and 420S, debuted in 1984, also in left-hand drive form only and 2.0-litre engines.

A Biturbo Spyder concept designed and produced by Italian coachbuilder Embo was shown at the 1982 Turin show, but the production Spyder that appeared in 1984 was designed and built by Zagato, with a wheelbase shortened by 11cm. Initially this featured a 2.0-litre engine, upgraded to a 2.5-litre engine for 1985.

The 192bhp 2.5-litre Biturbo and 425 saloon reached the UK in 1986 with right-hand drive; the same year saw a choice of Weber-Marelli fuel injection or carburettors for the Italian market. The following year saw the demise of carburettors on Italian cars and in 1988 the UK followed suit. In the same year the 430 superseded the 425, with a 2.8-litre engine – the 2.8-litre 228 also arrived. This was a two-door coupé that was a longer, wider and taller Biturbo.

The Karif broke cover at the 1988 Geneva salon. Essentially a Spyder with a fixed roof, the car used a 245bhp 2.8-litre V6. The Biturbo’s engine was enlarged to 2.8 litres for 1988, and the car was renamed the 222E. At the same time, ventilated discs were introduced at the front and the Spyder was renamed the Spyder E. Two years later the fixed-head models were axed, but the Spyder soldiered on until 1994. Based on the Spyder floorpan, the Shamal is the hottest variant of all. Revealed in 1990, it was powered by a 325bhp V8; RHD UK sales began in 1992.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine                            2790cc/V6/DOHC

Power                            248bhp@5600rpm

Torque                           282lb ft@3500rpm

Maximum speed              142mph

0-60mph                         6.6sec

Fuel Consumption           18-22mpg

Transmission                   RWD, five-spd manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

SUSPENDED BELIEF

Fuel injected models have six track rod ends, four of which wear quickly. Play in the steering means they’re due for renewal, at £500. Carburettor cars used solid discs all round, and the front ones can wear quickly, but injected cars have ventilated discs at the front, which are tougher. The handbrake mechanism is notoriously poor.

ELECTRIC AVENUE

Windows, starter motors, air-conditioning and warning lights can all play up. The fusebox is a printed circuit board, which burns out; it has to be repaired (for around £400) while the electric window winder mechanisms fail and they’re very scarce. Some cars had fused relays which pack up. Because the cooling system’s two fans are operated by these, blown head gaskets and potentially wrecked engines could result if there’s a failure. So if idling the engine for any length of time, make sure the cooling fans cut in.

AVOID ROTTEN LUCK

A non-galvanised bodyshell means rust is likely; early LHD cars rotted especially badly. Focus on the bottoms of the doors, the tail edge of the bootlid and the leading edge of the bonnet and front wings. The sills, wheelarches and trailing edge of the bonnet also rot, although the Spyder’s sills were reinforced so they’re less rot-prone. It’s rot in the bulkhead below the bonnet hinges that can kill a Biturbo; this can’t be repaired economically so it’s the most important check of all. Check the front valance/spoiler for damage. Later cars sit closer to the ground and the worst culprit is the Spyder.

V6: DON’T BE SCARED

The Biturbo’s V6 engine is strong if maintained. An annual oil and coolant change are essential, plus a timing belt replacement every four years; the latter costs around £500. Ensure the car has had synthetic oil. Rebuilding or replacing the twin-turbo V6 is expensive, so get an expert to check its health. Whether the engine is fuelled by carburettor or injection the costs are much the same; a rebuild is £8000 and a used engine £1000-£2000. Turbochargers last well but exhaust manifolds don’t and they’re no longer available.

AN OILY END

Check for oil leaks as gaskets fail, usually between each cam carrier and cylinder head. Inspect between the engine and bulkhead – it’ll be obvious if it’s wet with oil. Reckon on spending £160 to fix each side. With the car so low the sump can ground, so make sure it’s intact. There’s also a sensor on the crankshaft that gets bashed if the sump is grounded – hit it hard enough and the engine will grind to a halt. Exhausts rot through quickly so check that a stainless system has been fitted.

TRANSMISSION MISSION

Most Biturbos had a five-speed manual ZF gearbox with a dog-leg first gear; very late cars featured a Getrag unit. From 1985 a three-speed Borg-Warner auto was offered, upgraded to a four-speed ZF auto in the 2.8-litre models. Parts to overhaul the manual gearboxes are scarce or obsolete, but the autos can be rebuilt. A Sensitork limited-slip diff featured too, but there’s no breather system, so the diff overheats when the oil seals are blown out under pressure. A breather system is now available though. A diff rebuild costs £1200 but the crownwheel and pinion aren’t available. Check for oil leaks where the propshaft goes in and where the driveshafts come out. The propshaft feeds into the diff via a torque tube, in which the splines wear. Check for clonks when taking up drive. If the splines aren’t worn it can be fixed for £400, but once the splines are eroded it’s £900 to fix.

STEERING IT RIGHT

Power steering was fitted to all UK cars, apart from some early imports; check for leaks from the pinion seal on the rack. Carburettor cars have the rack mounted on rubber bushes, which will rot if the engine leaks oil onto it. This causes the rack to move on its mounts on the subframe, giving the impression of a worn steering rack, but it’s the mounting bushes that need replacing. Injected cars got solid mounts.

OUR VERDICT

The Biturbo range is an intriguing proposition thanks to its comfort, pace and rarity, plus that trident badge on the grille. Decent Biturbos are scarce and with patchy parts availability plus potentially high repair costs you have to buy with care; superficially good cars can actually be beyond saving.

CITROËN 2CV REVIEW

The cheapest James Bond classic is also the quirkiest. We look at how to buy a Deux Chevaux...

Having been initially launched in 1948, into the austerity of post-war Europe, the 2CV was overhauled in 1970. The new 435cc 2CV4 and 602cc 2CV6 had circular front indicators and bigger combination lamps at the rear. From 1972, luxuries such as three-point seatbelts were introduced and in 1974 rectangular headlamps were fitted. This year also marked reintroduction to the UK market, with right-hand drive 2CVs constructed in Belgium. Special editions included the SPOT, 007 and Charleston.

VITAL STATISTICS

Citroen 2CV6 

Engine                                    602cc/2-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  29bhp@5750rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 29lb ft@3000rpm

Top speed                                70mph

0-60mph                                  28sec

Consumption                            45mpg

Gearbox                                    4-spd manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

1970s 2CVs resist corrosion better than later ones. It’s not unusual to find one on its original chassis, although a galvanised chassis is still a boon. Rot can creep in pretty much anywhere, so it’s good to know that almost every section of body is available to buy new. Replacing the windscreen section is tricky, while the same is true of the sweeps above the rear wings. Inspect around the fixed side window and above inner rear wings. Check the boot floor and the box below the rear seat. Front wings can be awkward as new ones don’t always fit well. Floors, sills and the pillars all need careful inspection. Check the chassis above and below – look for seams blowing out and thump the underside. If it rattles, that’s rot! Chassis are available from £595 but budget on £2000 for a specialist fitting. Expect to pay around £140 for a brand new roof.

ENGINE

All UK market cars were 602cc, with a twin-choke carburettor right at the end of production. It’s a tough engine but watch for oil leaks and blue exhaust smoke. Regular oil changes are essential (every 3000 miles). The gearbox is hardy, if noisy. There’s no synchro’ on first, while third can get crunchy with wear. A 2CV4 will have been imported and may well have been upgraded to 602cc.

ELECTRICS

Electrics are generally 12v and reliable. There’s very little to go wrong. Voltage regulators can fail, so keep your eye on the voltmeter. Square headlamp reflectors and RHD lenses are hard to find, so check condition.

RUNNING GEAR

Fluid for drum and disc brake cars is not compatible. Drum brake cars use DOT4, disc, LHM. Drums still stop the cars well if adjusted correctly and the handbrake is often very good. Worn kingpins can be a problem and MoT testers get fussy about play – there will always be a little. Wear strikes the track rod ends and steering rack, so budget £200 for overhaul. Suspension rods are attached to the arms by triangular ‘knife edges’, which need regular greasing.

INTERIOR

Seats sag, cloth disintegrates but vinyl is hardy. Water ingress is likely, so lift rubber mats to check the floors.  

OUR VERDICT

The 2CV is huge fun but drum brake cars – or ‘drummers’ – are now quite rare. It took a while for sales to get going, although quite a few have since been imported. Classics don’t get much easier to work on, although they can feel strange to get your head around at first. The club is very supportive with its own parts scheme and a huge social scene. Neither of these models is as charming as early 2CVs or practical as later ones, but ‘drummers’ have a unique niche appeal.

MAZDA EUNOS ROADSTER REVIEW

Mazda’s MX5 was a clever move which caught the competition napping. The explosion of the hot hatch market seemed to sound the death knell for the sports car in the UK, with even the MGB being replaced by a hot Metro and a hairy Maestro. Mazda recognised the real reason for the demise of the sportscar industry; namely that all the models on sale had been considered by Noah prior to the building of the Ark – the Alfa Spider, the Triumph Spitfire, and the MGB were all old hat by the late 1970s, when MX5 development was begun. The MX5 was such a success that the models imported into Britain couldn’t come fast enough – and Japanese spec Mazda Eunos models began to arrive on our shores too. Almost identical to our own cars, certain difference warrant a separate buying guide.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine – 1597cc, 4-cyl, DOHC

Power - 116bhp@6500rpm

Torque - 100lb/ft@5500rpm

Top Speed – 114mph

0-60mph – 8.8seconds

Economy - 30mpg

Gearbox – 5 speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Bodywork

Perhaps unsurprisingly given how closely Mazda tried to emulate the classic British sportscar, Eunoses rust. Rear wheelarches, the trailing edge of the sills, and front chassis rails are known weak spots of the car, with corrosion having been evident on some cars before they reached their fifth birthdays. Drain holes can become blocked, trapping water in the sills which doesn’t help the rust issue. You can tell if the sills have been done by feeling them – the factory finish was a rough protective coating below the paint, where masy repaired cars will have smooth sills.

An obvious advantage is that the Japanese don’t salt their roads – a recent import will have fewer issues than a car which has spent a while in the UK. Wet boots are caused by perished rain channels round the back of the roof – easily replaceable. It should be fairly obvious not to succumb to temptation and test it with the roof down, for you can miss hood damage in this way. We’d also recommend testing how watertight it is before purchase.

Engines

All four cylinder, with a choice for two sizes. Early cars were 1.6, with a 1.8 option becoming available from 1994. The 1.6 was reintroduced in 1995 to combat the MGF – but was significantly detuned and feels far slower than early cars and 1.8s. And to please all those MG fans, the engine was part of an engine family known inside Mazda as the B-series! Mazda’s B-series is not known for faults, but there are a few things to check. Noisy tappets at startup is normal, but investigate if they haven’t shut up within a few minutes. Oil leaks are known, but easy to remedy once found. The bottom cambelt pulley can wear, and the cambelt itself whines when overtightened – walk away from squealing soft-tops. Misfires can be caused by faulty HT leads or the coil pack – HT leads are cheap, the coil pack isn’t. Investigate before purchase if possible.

Running Gear

The clutch slave cylinder is a known issue; its failure results in the clutch pedal sinking to the floor. It’s a simple enough fix though, so whilst you shouldn’t buy a car with a duff one it’s certainly no reason to sell up. Spigot and clutch release bearings can whine when the clutch is engaged – so listen on your test drive! Check that the power steering – more common on the Eunos than the MX5 – works as intended. Whilst parts are interchangeable with UK cars, the less you need to do the better!

Interior

Electric windows can slow or stick – silicon spray grease is useful in solving this if they’re still on their runners. Interiors were cloth and leather, and MX5s are so abundant that for standard cars it really doesn’t matter if trim needs replacing. Special editions might be harder to correctly renovate, though – one of the reasons we recommend avoiding special editions if possible. Hoods were vinyl and black as standard, though some special editions had mohair or coloured roofs. MK1s all had plastic rear windows, MK2 had heated glass. Barring these issues, there’s nothing on an MX5 interior that should pose any issues. Little of this is really relevant, for most will have had a replacement hood to the taste of the person who owned the car when it was fitted. As a rule, mohair and glass windows are more desirable than vinyl and plastic, but don’t pay any more for it if it’s already on the car.

OUR VERDICT

A stylish sportscar, beloved of enthusiasts worldwide, with a keen owners scene. They’re dirt cheap, well specced, and reliable enough for daily use. It’s the British sportscar for the sensible! You take one out, hare it down your favourite road without being silly, and you feel like you’ve just had the best drive of your life – the MX5 handles too sweetly to ignore. Buy one now, whilst they’re for nothing – it can’t last forever!

Mazda Eunos

CITROËN TRACTION AVANT REVIEW

It’s easy to forget how revolutionary the Citroën Traction-Avant was when it was first launched. As impressive is that fact it was still ahead of the game when production ceased in 1957. 

You sit behind an enormous steering wheel. The engine (1911cc at least) is pretty responsive for the era and motorway speeds are possible, if noisy. The gearbox is a touch agricultural, and controlled by a handle that sort of flops out of the dashboard. It’s easy enough to get used to and once in top, there’s little reason to change down again.
It’s the handling of this stylish machine that really surprises though. The steering is wonderfully direct and accurate, but is heavy, even on the ‘Light’ models. The brakes are ok for their age, but need some respect. You need to bear this in mind because it’s very easy to push on a bit. The soft ride just adds to the pleasure. 

Sluggish, antiquated and skittish – none of these things characterise the Traction Avant. Despite its ‘30s design, the road behaviour of the front-wheel drive Citroëns belies their years. With a wheel at each corner, a relatively low centre of gravity, and with the front wheels doing the pulling, these cars feel sure-footed enough to be thrown into corners with drama.

Despite the curved dashboard-mounted gearlever, navigating the three-speed gearbox is an easy affair. Positive rack-and-pinion steering ensure that much of the vagueness associated with older steering boxes just isn’t there. Four-cylinder versions rely upon torque, rather than mind-blowing power, and low gearing is set up for a different age. However, this makes them all the easier to drive, and – especially with the biggest 1911cc powerplant – more than capable of clambering up any hill.

The six-cylinder models improved upon the performance of the four-cylinder cars, and it is these which make the lightest work of modern-day traffic. All models are strong performers, however, and although classic they are capable of everyday use. 

VITAL STATISTICS

Légère/Light 15

Engine                                    1911cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  56bhp@4250rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 140lb ft@ 3900rpm

Top speed                                107mph

0-60mph                                  12.8sec

Consumption                            19mpg 

Gearbox                                    3-speed manual
 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Rust is the main enemy of the monocoque. The first place to check is the sills, which are open-ended, encouraging corrosion. The rear suspension legs mount onto the rear of the inner sills – any rot here can cause dangerous rear axle movement. Beware of patch repairs. The ‘Jambonneaux,’ or front sill extensions forward of the bulkhead, should be inspected for bubbling or holes. Stress cracks on the floor at the back of the engine bay are simply a fact of life for Traction owners. However, ripples in the bulkhead above the side arms point to front-end accident damage.

Floor-pans are susceptible to rotting, which can be exacerbated by blocked sunroof drainage holes on Slough-built cars. The scuttle vents rot, allowing water in. Long-wheelbase cars flex much more than the short-wheelbase cars – dimples in the panels between the rear door and rear wheel are a sure sign of this.

Door gaps need to be even on all four doors – if this is not the case, it could be that the doors have dropped, or due to accident damage. Rusting roof gutters can force doors downwards. Bottom edges of doors and boot-lids can rot, as can the boot floor if drain holes become blocked.

The tail end of those elaborate, swooping front wings are mud traps, thanks to aluminium trim hiding rot. The rear wing stone-guards can also hide rust. Corrosion often takes hold in the seams between the bodywork and wings – watch out for bubbling paint and rust streaks.

ENGINE

Four-cylinder engines are sturdy, utilising wet-liner construction, although the oil must have been changed every 1000 miles to ensure longevity. Timing chain rattle is nothing to worry about, as no tensioner was fitted from new. Piston rings can fail on engines that have been laid up for a long time, so watch for smoke. The six-cylinder cars are also tough, but rattling while starting could be due to the starter ring gear working itself loose. Rattling while at idle is likely to be due to a loose crankshaft damper – this needs to be fixed before any damage is done. Cylinder heads are more prone to warping than those on the smaller engines.

RUNNING GEAR

Water pumps are mounted directly above the transmission. Any leaks can lead to water running into the bellhousing and seizing the clutch. Six-cylinder engines run hot, making an electric cooling fan a wise upgrade. A perceived juddering clutch could simply be due to a perished rear engine mount – rock the engine to check for play. Jumping out of gear or non-functioning synchromesh indicates internal gearbox wear. If the unit is noisy, particularly changing pitch on the overrun, then it could be a tooth having detached from the crownwheel – this can potentially do plenty of damage.

BRAKES

Clicking from the drive-shafts on full lock at lower speeds is an indication that they’re worn. Gripping the shafts and trying to twist them will test for wear.

INTERIOR

Sumptous interior boasted soft fabric and acres of space

OUR VERDICT

Today, the Traction Avant looks old-fashioned to the point of quaintness. However, when launched in 1934, it was a very different story. Lower, sleeker, and more aerodynamic than contemporary saloons, the new Citroën’s looks were groundbreaking, while the technology employed was out of this world. 

The concept of front-wheel-drive had been explored by others, but never perfected. Likewise, the chassis-less monocoque had been seen before. However, this combination of cutting-edge ideas, and their execution, was incredible. André Citroën had good reason to be proud of his creation.

Typically for Citroën, there was a different model for every buyer. With as engines ranging from a 1.3-litre four-cylinder to a 2.8-litre six, you could also select the four-door Light 15 (the Légère), the wider and longer Big 15 (Normale), five or six-seater limousine, eight or nine-seater Familiale, Commerciale hatchback, roadster or fixed head coupé. If you’re looking for an intriguing, useable and thoroughly charming classic, the Traction Avants should be at the top of your list.

Over a 23-year production run, 759,123 Traction Avants were snapped up by eager buyers across Europe. 

There was a good reason for this exceptional popularity – these front-wheel drive Citroëns are cracking machines. Proving that cutting-edge design really can work in the real world, any example from its sprawling range can still make an enjoyable and interesting classic choice.

Granted, this design does mean that there is added complexity over many of its contemporaries, but with a thriving club scene and many examples still on the road, you’ll be in good company if you buy carefully and wisely. 

If you desire a classic with ‘30s style, but don’t want to sacrifice modern-day usability, the Traction Avant is the car for you.

CITROËN SM REVIEW

The technically complex Citroën SM has never lost its ability to amaze onlookers and drivers alike. But be prepared for big bills if you don’t buy wisely…

Settle behind that quirky wheel and gaze at the sweeping instrument panel. Check out the pedals, and notice that there’s a rubber button instead of a brake pedal. Fire up and feel the car rise on its suspension. This could only be a Citroën, couldn’t it?

It’s quite a big car, but doesn’t feel like it on the road. The ride is superb and the cornering grip much better than you’d think, with only the poor lateral support of the seats discouraging spirited driving. You’ll need time to adjust to the high-geared, but very quick, power steering and the car’s width (you can’t see the right-hand front wing from the driving seat), and you will stand the car on its nose the first time you brake. Only then do you realise that you must caress the brake button rather than stamp on it.

However, there’s a delightful snarl from the V6 (which is more pronounced on carburettor cars), and a feeling of ‘rightness’ that’s difficult to describe. In absolute terms, it’s not terribly quick, but it has plenty of torque and so it feels fast. You’ll soon be dreaming about those long stretches of French autoroute, where you could really let it have its head…

VITAL STATISTICS

Citroën SM

Engine                                    2670cc/V6/4OHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  170bhp@5500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 170lb ft@4000rpm

Top speed                                135mph

0-60mph                                  8.9sec

Consumption                            24mpg 

Gearbox                                    5-spd manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

As you’d expect, rust can be a problem. It will be obvious if there is any corrosion in the front wings and wheelarches, in the door bottoms, or in the rear wheel spats. Also obvious will be corrosion in the leading edge of the bonnet panel, which is made of Citroën’s favourite duralumin, but suffers from electrolytic action because it carries a metal trim strip. However, you will need to dig a little deeper to reassure yourself that there are no really nasty problems lurking out of sight. Check the floor of the boot, and get underneath to look at the platform-chassis and the undertray.

The power steering can mask some problems, but the car should always track straight. If it pulls to one side or the steering does not self-centre, suspect trouble with the servo motor at the bottom of the steering column. Another cause of steering pull, and especially of bump-steer, can be damaged suspension arms. If you discover these, take the hint and look carefully for other damage that has been poorly repaired. If the car’s been in a front-end smash, it’s likely the front chassis legs have crumpled and the evidence will still be there. 

ENGINE

Your first concern should be with the engine. Filter out the assorted noises from the rest of the car (which should be nothing more than the hydraulics and air conditioning doing their respective things), and listen for odd noises from under the bonnet. Timing chains need to be adjusted every 10,000 miles, and rattles mean they haven’t been and could fail at any moment. Listen, too, for excessive tappet noise. The sodium-filled exhaust valves tend to fail on little-used engines, although fitting aftermarket solid valves cures the problem. On injected engines, the injectors have been known to leak and catch fire! Not surprisingly, the permanent solution is to fit more modern injectors.

When you fire the engine up, the hydraulics should immediately lift the car to its normal ride height. There will be plenty of clicking, hissing and whirring, but that’s normal. If the car doesn’t rise properly, or it sits unevenly, expect trouble with the hydraulics. Although they are fine if properly maintained and the right fluid (LHM) is used, pipes can corrode, seals can blow and spheres can leak.

ELECTRICS

Most (but not all) SMs were fitted with air conditioning, and for some unfathomable reason it can’t be turned off. Many owners find it prohibitively noisy, and internal failure of the system can have expensive knock-on effects on other under-bonnet components. As such, you’ll often find that a previous owner has fitted a DIY ‘off’ switch, or 

that the quieter system developed by Andrew Brodie Engineering has been substituted. Either way, that’s a good thing.

RUNNING GEAR

The manual gearboxes are pretty tough, but can suffer from weak synchromesh. Re-building isn’t a particular problem, though. The automatic is also long-lived, being the special two-shaft version of the Borg Warner 35 that was built for Citroën and used in the DS. Spares and re-building shouldn’t be a worry. 

INTERIOR

Most cars have leather seats, but there was also a nylon fabric upholstery option, which wears through. A full re-trim is the only answer. The front seat backrests have been known to break, too.

OUR VERDICT

The SM exerts a strange fascination unlike that of any other car. Driving one is always an occasion, and the car turns heads wherever you go. It’s quite addictive, although you’ll need a little time to get accustomed to it. Once the penny finally drops, you’ll probably find every other car somehow inferior.

It must be emphasised that we don’t think the SM is a car for the feeble of wallet. It’s a hardcore enthusiast’s car that’s at its best when used for long-distance runs in the grand tourer tradition. It’s left-hand drive (although three were converted to RHD in the UK), which is a drawback and you wouldn’t want to use one for the school run or your weekly visit to the supermarket. It’s not really a family car, either, and the poor rear legroom makes it little more than a big 2+2. 

But if you use it as a classic toy, who cares about such trivialities?

Visitors to the 1970 Geneva Motor Show were astounded when they first saw the Citroën SM. The company had been itching to build a grand routier for years, and its acquisition of Maserati in 1968 had given it the means to do so. In essence, the 2.7-litre V6 engine comprised three-quarters of a Maserati V8, with reduced bore and stroke to keep it under
the 2.8-litre French tax break. 

The shape was astonishing. It tapered sharply towards the rear, while six headlamps – the outer pair of which swivelled – gave it an unmistakable front. With Citroën’s characteristic front-wheel drive and full-power hydraulics operating the brakes and suspension, it drove like no other car. Cruising at 100mph was easy, while 135mph was within reach.

The original triple-Weber engine gave way to an injected version in 1972, and then the triple Webers returned for a bigger-bore 3-litre version of the engine harnessed to an automatic gearbox in 1973. This was mainly for the US market, but Citroën was already losing interest, and the oil crisis did the rest before the car was finally canned in 1975.

MERCEDES-BENZ 124 REVIEW

2014 marks three decades since the introduction of the W124, yet few people consider it a bona fide classic. It’s easy to see why; there are lots of them still in daily use, whereas most classics are seen primarily at shows. But the W124’s popularity as everyday transport is testament to its usability; when it comes to over-engineered cars that offer everything you could need in one affordable package, it has few peers.

Offered in saloon, estate, coupé and convertible guises, the W124 represents spectacular value in its ious guises. That includes the two-door cars, but here we’ll focus on the saloon and estate, which offer unparalleled usability.

Launched in October 1985, at first there were saloons only, in 200, 230E, 260E and 300E flavours – or there was a 250D diesel. By April 1986 there was an estate with the same engine choices. In September 1988 the 200 gained fuel injection to become the 200E and the 300E became the 24-valve 300E-24. The 300TD estate replaced the 250TD in February 1990 then seven months later all cars got a catalytic converter as standard.

The big changes came in October 1992; that’s when all W124 engines were updated with four-valve cylinder heads. The 200E got a multi-valve head, the 230E was replaced by the 220E and the 280E replaced the 260E. at the same time, the 320E replaced the 300E and the 4Matic four-wheel drive option was dropped; it had been offered since April 1988 but proved unpopular. Such cars are now very rare.

A facelift in August 1993 saw the E become a prefix rather than a suffix (E320 rather than 320E for example), and it’s these cars, with their clear indicator lenses, colour-coded lower panels and bonnet-mounted mascot (it was previously set in the grille) that most buyers want. Buy one of these with all the right options (standard cars could be pretty basic) and you’ll have all the classic you could ever need.

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VITAL STATISTICS

E320 saloon
 

Engine                                      3199cc/6-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                     220@5500

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                    228@3750

Top speed                                142mph

0-60mph                                   7.0sec

Consumption                            24mpg

Gearbox                                   4/5-speed auto

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WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

The bodywork tends to last well, but check the front wings where they meet the bumper along with the inner wing under the washer bottle, the rear wheelarches and the jacking points. For the latter you’ll have to remove each of the covers to get a proper view.

ENGINE

The eight-valve four-cylinder engines (200 and 220) will cover huge mileages and are frugal too, but are a bit underpowered, especially in the estate. The multi-valve E220 is the best four-pot as it’s reliable, economical and more muscular. The diesels are also incredibly long-lived and very fuel-efficient – but they’re not all that unrefined. Best of all are the six-cylinder powerplants (260E and 300E initially, then the multi-valve E280 and E320). These are much smoother, torquier and suit the car far better. Pick of the bunch is the E320, which is already the most desirable and will always be the most collectible.

The front timing seal leaks on the earlier six-cylinder engines. These can be fixed with the engine in situ, for around £350. Distributor caps and rotor arms are weak; OE parts cost £100 and you should expect to replace these every three years or so depending on how the car is stored and driven. The fuel injection can also play up because of wear in the fuel distribution units and injectors along with vacuum leaks. Repair costs can y wildly.
 

ELECTRICS

The E280 and E320 have a wiring harness for the engine which has biodegradable sheathing. This degrades leading to misfires then costs around £1000 to fix. The price for the loom ies according to the car’s spec – it can be anywhere between £400-800, plus VAT and fitting. These engines can also suffer from head gasket leaks. Bank on spending £1200 to fix these, as you’ll probably have to do the valve stem seals at the same time – and if that harness hasn’t been replaced, you may well have to do that too. Also check the rubber engine mounts, as these can fail; new ones cost £75.60 each (four-cylinder) or £99.60 for six-cylinder items.

RUNNING GEAR

Most of these cars have an automatic gearbox but there are some manuals; the latter are rare and not very sought after but all W124 transmissions are bullet-proof. They all benefit from a fluid change every 25,000 miles, although the factory recommends every 40,000 miles. Back axles are strong, although estate units can eventually wear, especially if the car is used for towing. Estate diffs feature stronger bearings but the same ratios, although the ratios are different between four and six-cylinder models.

All of these cars came with power steering and unusually there’s a box rather than a rack. Leaks from the power steering pumps are rare and the boxes are reliable. Expect a bit of play in the box after a huge mileage, but this can usually be adjusted out.

BRAKES

Brakes are very reliable with nothing to worry about. All estates got self-levelling rear suspension as standard. The metal pipework for this corrodes and access is poor so the rear subframe has to be dropped - then you end up replacing all of the bushes at the same time. OE parts are expensive, but you have to use OE parts or you’ll end up having to do the job more than once.

INTERIOR

Interiors tend to wear very well. Many W124s have leather trim, but cloth is far from unusual. Predictably, it’s the driver’s seat bolster that’s most likely to be worn, but only after a huge mileage. Carpets last well and so does the switchgear and instrumentation. New parts are very costly, but there are lots of good used parts available as many W124s have been broken.

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OUR VERDICT

After owning a W124, anything else will seem under-engineered. There are lots to choose from, but many are neglected and parts costs can be high.  As always you must single out a cherished car and be prepared to invest in OE parts to keep it running. And that’s just what it’ll do; it’ll keep going forever.

Mercedes-Benz 124

CLASSIC CAR REVIEWS - MERCEDES-BENZ 280-SL

The Mercedes-Benz 280 SL is indeed part of a very special lineage, starting with the infamous 300 SL 'Gull-Wing' continuing to cars such as the present day SL 55 AMG. The design of te 280 SL was orginally badged as the 230 SL in 1963. The Mercedes 230 SL was then rebadged as the 250 SL and finally, in 1967, rebadged again as the 280 SL as engine capacity rose once more. The Mercedes 280SL is widely regarded as a beautifully crafted sports tourer, the design of which is timeless. The two-seater (available with an optional, sideways facing, 'jump seat' in the rear) was powered by a 2778cc engine, using 6 cylinders to ensure a smooth driving experience. Although not available as a coupe, Mercedes-Benz did offer the option of a 'pagoda roof' removable hard top. The full choice of roofs was a soft top, a soft top with the removable hard top, or a removable hard top without the soft top underneath. Due to owners of the latter option having to be pretty confident of the weather before they took their cars out with the roof off, this option was less popular at dealers based in northern Europe and the U.K and as such earned the nickname 'the Californian'. Standard equipment on the 280SL was impressive for the time, included were all round disc brakes, tachometer, 3 point safety harnesses, wood trim and a clock. Although most cars built were fitted with 4-speed manual gear boxes, there are a few rare examples to be found that were fitted with 5-speed boxes. Parts and accessories for the Mercedes 280 SL are still quite easy to come by. Due to the prestige nature of the car there are several highly recommended and well established owners clubs and may parts are still available direct from Mercedes. Mercedes-Benz ended production of the 280 SL in 1971.

CITROËN BX REVIEW

Citroen used to build bonkers cars and while some loved the company for it, most buyers stayed away, petrified of the complex hydraulics and crazy interiors. What the company needed, if it wasn't going to go belly up, was a more mainstream model with just the right amount of individuality, but not so much that potential buyers were scared.

The BX was that car. It looked like nothing else on the road, yet the engineering was largely conventional. Designed by Bertone and borrowing most of its running gear from the Peugeot parts bin, the BX doubled Citroen's UK sales. If Q cars float your boat, too (that's Q for quick), the BX GTi 16V could be the classic you've been searching for.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

Forget the seemingly complex mechanicals; rust is what kills BXs. Plastic panels (some bonnets, all tailgates and fuel filler flaps) can allow cruddy BXs to look decent - while the structure underneath is compromised.

Front wings tend to last; they're easily replaced anyway, as they bolt on, and used ones are plentiful. Rear quarter panels are less durable, especially on estates that were built (but poorly rustproofed) by Heuliez. Replacement panels are scarce and repairs involve welding. Check the front inner wings where they meet the wheel housing; rust here is common and it's not easy to fix on cars with ABS, as the pump is on the nearside inner wing. Also check under the airbox; effective repairs entail removal of the wing and wheelarch liner to gain access. Look for rust stains in the seam sealer between wheel tub and inner wing; also inspect the windscreen surround for bubbles and previous repairs. Many BXs have had new windscreens and poor fitment leads to rust.

Door hinges can break away from the A-post when the welds give way. Repairs are possible, but a pain. If the hinge flexes as the door is opened and closed, the A-post is probably rotten. Check the top of the A-post above and behind the hinges as these can rust through.

The rear door shuts and wing rot because water and mud collect behind the rear wheel spat so it corrodes out of sight. Rust around the sunroof is rare, but check anyway, as it's difficult to repair; most hatchbacks have an electric tilt/slide sunroof, but estates weren't offered with one. Some have been sealed up because of blocked drain holes; they're at each corner of the mechanism, and clearing is fiddly, but possible. Check for damp around the aperture.

The plastic bumpers age badly but they're easy to remove and replace. Most are colour-keyed and they fade, but can be rejuvenated with a hot air gun, bumper gel or fresh paint. 16-valve models got their own bumpers that are fragile and scarce.

ENGINES
Engine-wise, there's not much to worry about. Most surviving BXs feature a 1769cc or 1905cc naturally aspirated or turbocharged XUD diesel engine, as fitted to ious PSA and Rover models. The XUD unit lasts forever if looked after, although head gaskets can fail - but the engine will still often keep working for ages. Changing the oil every 6000 miles, the coolant every two years and the cam belt/water pump every 40,000 miles (or four years) will see 200,000 miles despatched with ease. All engines have a cambelt apart from the early 1.4-litre petrol unit.

Petrol fans could choose between a 1.4 carburetted or 1.6/1.9 XU petrol in carb or injected forms. Until 1988 the 1.4 was the gearbox-in-sump unit shared with the Visa and early 205/309; later came the more modern TU unit shared with the Peugeot 106 and Citroen Saxo. The later unit is more refined and parts supply is better. Both give nippy performance, but are low geared, so they're vocal on motorways.

The .6 and 1.9 XU engine came in four-speed auto or five-speed manual forms with 80-160bhp, the latter in twin-cam Mi16 form. This engine is reliable if maintained, but carb versions go out of tune and the automatic choke on twin-choke Solexes can be unreliable. Overhaul kits and manual choke conversions are available, but the best fix is to fit more reliable Weber replacements - although sometimes the system just needs tuning.

The final cars got electronic fuel injection and catalytic converters, which rarely give problems, although air intake leaks can cause rough running and idling issues on cars with multipoint injection.

TRANSMISSIONS
Gearboxes are tough. Some basic 1.4-litre BXs got a four-speed box, but all others got five speeds; entry-level 1.4-litre cars are almost extinct now. The same BE1 or BE3 gearbox was used across the range - the two are interchangeable. Also fitted to the Peugeot 309 and 405, decent used transmissions cost £50-£100, but you're unlikely to need one. The thing likely to wear is the idler gear, which gets noisy. However, the selector mechanism and linkages can wear, but they're cheap to replace. Clutches can last 200,000 miles; as they wear they get sticky and stiff. However, these symptoms can also betray a tired clutch cable; replacements are cheap, readily available and easy to fit.

Clutch cables can also snap, while a stiff pedal can be greatly improved by lubricating teh lever on top of the bell housing. Speedo cables fail regularly but they're no longer available. They're long and run through the offside of the bulkhead and behind the dash at a sharp angle. If the speedo is wobbly or ticking, the cable is on its way out and you'll probably have to get one made specially. Automatic BXs are common and they're unbreakable if the fluid is changed correctly. Dextron 2 needs to go in, but Dextron 4 is often used - which destroys the transmission. Decent used auto boxes start at £100.

STEERING AND SUSPENSION
Most BXs have had a suspension overhaul by now. A hard, bouncy ride betrays worn spheres; they're typically cheaper than a shock absorber and can be replaced in minutes. If the rear wheels lean in at the top and there's creaking or cracking, the rear arm bearings have worn. Budget £150 per side to get them fixed. Suspension struts rarely fail (but the rubber return pipes do), although they become stiff and sticky and can groan when raised to full height. They can be lubricated, but replacement is better, although new ones are pricey at £300 (if available at all). Reconditioned items are £150 apiece on an exchange basis. A BX will settle down to its bump stops over a few hours when switched off, as hydraulic pressure drops. When started it should raise itself back up to normal height within 5-10 seconds; any longer indicates a tired pump and/or accumulator sphere, as does stiff or sticky steering or the low pressure light coming on. Both are available and are easy to fit. Finally, check for hydraulic leaks, which are obvious as the LHM fluid is bright green. Later models had coated hydraulic pipes, but the earlier steel ones fatigue and corrode; if they fail there'll be no suspension, brakes or power steering. You have been warned!

WHEELS AND BRAKES
The braking system is largely conventional in its design, with no inherent weaknesses. Everything is available and nothing is costly. Handbrake cables can seize, but they're easily freed up. On cars with ABS, make sure the warning lamp illuminates then extinguishes when the engine is started; new sensors are extinct, so you'd have to remove the system to avoid and MoT failure, or find a decent used sensor.

TRIM AND ELECTRICS
There were two basic seat styles. The softer, more sculpted standard seat that's normally covered in a tweed or herringbone fabric can wear through, especially on the driver's side. A sportier design was fitted to the GTi 8v and TZD Turbo; these were fitted to most models evenutally. The 160bhp 16-valve models got bespoke front seats with lumbar support that are supremely comfortable and supportive, but as rare as the 16v itself. Electrics can also be temperamental. Fan motors pack in (usually because of a dodgy earth) while heater controls can seize. Forcing them breaks them; replacements are available, but fitment is fiddly as they're behind the dash. The spindle wears in the single front wiper. Decent used replacements are scarce, so it's best to fit new bushes.
 

VERDICT

Why do you want one? You don't want to follow the crowd, and while the contemporary alternatives are no longer mainstream, they still lack the left-field appeal of the Citroen. However, despite its reputation, the most unusual thing about the BX is its styling; the engineering itself is relatively conventional, aside from that hydropneumatic suspension. Speaking of which, it's one of the major attractions of the BX, not a reason to run away in terror. It's reliable and endows the Citroen with a balance of ride and handling that you just can't achieve with conventional steel springing.

If you're thinking of buying a left-field classic that's eminently usable and cheap to run, the BX fits the bill. But the survival rate is poor, which is why you're unlikely to see another at a show. Most of the cars left are Mk2s (introduced in 1986) and diesel-powered; find one with a good history and you've got an ultra-practical classic. Tattycars can be bought for just a few hundred quid, while even the best examples command little more than £2000. That's top value in any language.

MERCEDES-BENZ 300SL REVIEW

The 300SL Gullwing was born out of motorsport, and was first built in 1952 for sports car races. It was only made available as a road car when the motor racing had finished. Road car production began in 1954 and ended in 1957 with a total of only 1,402 Gullwings being made. The Gullwing has the unfamiliar door style chosen because this was the only door that would fit the new tubular chassis. 

The 201bhp Gullwing did offer some firsts in the way of technology, being the first 4 cycle gas injection car sold to the public. It also included a tubular space frame offering light weight and unrivalled strength. The car had an extremely low and aerodynamic body, thanks to mounting the engine at a 50 degree angle. All gears also featured synchromesh, which was unheard of at the time. One odd feature of the Gullwing Mercedes is the inclusion of a passenger horn button.

With the cars unusual Gullwing style doors and its racing heritage it was a recipe for money to be made. Daimler’s official importer to the USA, Max Hoffman suggested to Daimler-Benz that a road going version in America would be a commercial success. Although Daimler originally said no due to the fact that it would cost almost double the amount of a Jaguar, Hoffman pressed his point and eventually got his way.

Over 80% of the cars produced were sold, making it the first Mercedes to sell in bulk outside of its home market.

The 300SL was eligible for FIA’s international sports contests in Class 2 Grand Touring. The most famous win the 300SL achieved was a 1st and 2nd in the 1955 Mille Miglia courtesy of John Fitch and Oliver Gendebein respectively.

MERCEDES-BENZ 600 REVIEW

The Mercedes-Benz 600 is assembled on a separate line and primarily by hand. No car is made without a specific order. Accordingly it is possible to comply with additional requests, even those which are not contained in the list of special accessories. Mercedes top of the range model, the 1963 newcomer featured an overhead camshaft fuel injected 6.3-litre V8 self levelling air suspension with iable ride control two three-phase current generators limited slip differential twin-circuit hydraulic brake system twin brake calipers to front four-speed automatic transmission all round disc brakes adjustable steering wheel for rake power assisted steering push-button hydraulic opening and closing of front and rear door windows and central rear side windows, central locking, outside-air thermometer, and separate heating / ventilation systems for front and rear compartments. Built in saloon and 7/8-seater limousine forms with either a 10 6 or 12 10 wheelbase, the Saloon measured 18 2, and 20 6 in Pullman form. A highly respectable performer, it could reach 60mph in under 10 seconds and 125mph. 2,190 saloons and 487 Pullman limousines were built in all, production ceasing in 1981, this model having the largest unit-construction body ever built by Mercedes. Rarer still in six-door form.

CLASSIC CAR REVIEWS - MERCEDES-BENZ FINTAIL

The Hillman Avenger arrived on the UK market in 1970, production ending in 1981 with around 640,000 rolling off the Ryton and Linwood production lines.  Launched with a range of 1248 and 1498cc engines, a live rear axle, and a four-speed manual gearbox, the Avenger plugged a gap in Hillman’s range above the small Imp while providing a competitor to the popular Ford Cortina. Trim levels were initially DL, Super, and GL but regular updates followed including, in 1972, an estate variant and the (relatively) plush GLS trim.    

Careful design meant it was safer than most competitors and, while thoroughly conventional for the time, the Avenger nevertheless provided a decent drive. Roomy, decently equipped and with a good ride, it proved a capable family saloon. The same holds true today and if a Cortina is just a bit too common, then the Avenger is well worth a look. 

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VITAL STATISTICS

1970 Hillman Avenger 1250

Engine                                    1248cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  53bhp@5000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 66lb ft@3000rpm

Top speed                                81mph

0-60mph                                  16.8sec

Consumption                            28mpg

Gearbox                                    4-speed manual

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WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

In common with most cars of the period, rust was the Avenger’s main enemy. Sills, rear valances, and front inner wings are all at risk of the dreaded tin-worm, so a car that has already had these areas attended to is well worth seeking out. 
A lack of undersealing also meant that floorpans corroded quickly, and while replacement panels are available cheaply, labour costs can soon mount.  Checking a potential purchase carefully is time well spent. Lift up the carpets in both the front and rear of the cabin, and don’t forget to check the boot floor as well.

ENGINE

The four-cylinder OHV units were tried and tested and present no major problems.  Replacement parts, even for early units, are plentiful and relatively cheap and if well looked after, the engines are pretty much bullet-proof. Regular maintenance is the key though and is well within the scope of the DIY-er. Evidence of frequent servicing will provide peace of mind and while niggling oil leaks are not uncommon, these tend to be a result of neglect and are rarely serious. Some oil smoke from the exhaust is perhaps to be expected, though this shouldn’t be excessive and more often than not points to worn valve guides. A top end rebuild is a fairly straightforward task for home mechanics and shouldn’t deter you if the car is otherwise sound. 

RUNNING GEAR

Both manual and automatic gearboxes are largely trouble-free and any major problems will be apparent on a test drive. Manual’boxes can suffer from weak synchromesh, but ensuring the correct oil is being used will help minimise the problem – this should be engine oil and not specific gearbox oil as you might expect.  Reconditioned units are available and reasonably priced. The three-speed Borg Warner Type 35 automatic was never really troubled by the Avenger’s modest power and while gearchanges were never the smoothest, excessive thumping or a reluctance to change gear signal more major problems which can prove costly. 

A whining back axle is a common occurrence but doesn’t necessarily mean imminent failure, while half-shaft bearings have a tendency to leak oil. Suspension and brake systems shouldn’t give trouble with regular fettling, only sticking brake calipers proving a minor issue.

INTERIOR

Most interiors will have succumbed to general wear and tear by now. Dashboards can suffer from cracking and warpage, and water leaks from front and rear screens will rot the carpets. Replacement parts can be hard to source, so a really tired interior is best avoided. 

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OUR VERDICT

If you’re looking for something a little different to the mass ranks of Ford Cortinas and Morris Marinas, then you’ll certainly appreciate what the Avenger has to offer.  As a comfortable and reliable saloon it is hard to beat, and low running costs are the icing on the classic car cake. Fine ride and handling were lauded by the motoring press at launch and still feel a step above its competitors today.

CLASSIC CAR REVIEWS - MERCEDES-BENZ G-CLASS

The Mercedes-Benz G-Wagen was rattling the Soviet bear just prior to the end of the Cold War. And perhaps in its own small way it contributed to those astonishing scenes we saw in Germany in 1989 and in the USSR in 1991. Which makes the G a real piece of history, present when monumental events unfolded.
Development of the G occurred throughout the 1970s, in the wake of the German Army’s decision to use the lightweight VW Iltis as a stop-gap 4x4. Daimler-Benz teamed up with Steyr-Daimler-Puch, who made the Haflinger and Pinzgauer off-roaders, to develop the concept. From 1981, Geländewagen- Fahrzeug-Gesellschaft was bought out by Steyr, which built G-Wagens for Mercedes under license. Confused? Steyr was allowed to badge the trucks under its own maker’s name to sell them in Austria, Switzerland and the former Yugoslavia. Then Peugeot motored and badged versions were built for the French army after military trials showed they were the most suitable 4x4 available. But the French government refused to buy foreign vehicles, so the Peugeot hybrid project G was responsible for 12,000 ‘Peugeot P4’ models assembled by Panhard in France. The G-Wagen was a slow seller on the commercial market – too slow, utilitarian and expensive to compete with luxury high-end Range Rovers and trinket-laden Japanese 4x4s such as the Isuzu Trooper and Nissan Patrol. It was perceived to be worthy but lacking in charisma for the private buyer.
You may not think the point of a 'G' is to consider its road-driving habits. But the G-Wagen manages the tricky task of being a genuinely easy road-driving estate car, a formidable off-road go-anywhere 4x4, and often a true military collectors vehicle. So what greets the driver unfamiliar with G-lore? First off, check the polyurethance wheelarches, signifying a post-1985 facelift. Climb up into the seat of a 460 series G and, after sporty classics, it seems high off the deck. Settle into the generic 1980s Mercedes-Benz fabric seat. It’s spartan but comfy. Below the dashboard are two pedals and a footrest, while to the right are three levers handbrake, auto-shifter and behind the transfer box lock-up, this being the G-Wagen’s secret weapon in military use over other homegrown potential army vehicles.
The fuel-injected straight-six fires from a key start, and once you’ve snicked the gear lever back into D, the G heads off with a muted woofle from the tailpipe and a flick of torque from the twin-cam six. The ride is sharper than a monocoque car, damped by the extra weight a military-spec G carries in its sump guards and cupola. With three up – driver, navigator and the officer in the centrally mounted, higher positioned rear seat– all three serving soldiers strap in with multi-point harnesses. Then you can head off-road and the fun begins. With low-range engaged and diffs locked, you can power between trees on steep slopes. With low engaged, capable is an understatement! But it’s when the formidable powers of the G fail, and the 4x4 gets stuck, that the military version shows how adaptable it is. With the winch, you can tether the cable and power away from the steepest and slipperiest conditions, until all four wheels can grab some grip and pull through. It’s not the fastest thing on four wheels, nor does it deploy the sharpest handling or best brakes. But for a point-to-point crossing of any terrain, a G will give you almost as much capacity as a military vehicle fitted with tracks.

MERCEDES-BENZ R107 SL REVIEW

The R107 SL came to symbolise 1980s glamour. We find out if they’ve aged gracefully

The R107-series SL was unveiled in 1971, presenting luxury-hungry buyers with stylish interiors, bigger engines and sharper, more contemporary bodywork. Mercedes-Benz’s renowned build quality quickly becomes apparent from the moment you close the door with a satisfying clunk. The 107 chassis was also an incredibly long-lived member of the Mercedes-Benz family, remaining in production until 1989. After four decades, the R107 SL is still a fashionable and popular vehicle, so prices have remained strong. Find a good example and you should have a surefire investment in the long term. 

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VITAL STATISTICS

1985 Mercedes-Benz 300SL

Engine                                    2962cc/6-cyl/SOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  178bhp@5700rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 184lb ft@4400rpm

Top speed                                124mph

0-60mph                                   9.6sec

Consumption                             23mpg

Gearbox                                    5-speed manual

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WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Mercedes-Benz built these cars accurately, with very careful attention to how every item fitted in relation to another. Thus all external body sheet metal should fit precisely, with even gaps between any adjacent panels – the same goes for the bonnet and boot lid. Uneven gaps hint at removal, accident damage or worse. 

Check where the wings are bolted to the inner aprons. Mercedes-Benz painted the cars after the front wings and doors were already attached, so all the bolts should be body-coloured and bonded with paint to the panels. If not, then this is a sure sign that repairs have been undertaken.

Post-1986 cars were the best rustproofed SLs, while pre-1976 versions – built before wax injection was introduced – are the most likely to suffer. Check for rust in the sills, box sections, jacking points and floors. Front and rear valances and wheelarches are also problem areas. Be sure to assess the windscreen – it’s bonded in – as well as checking rubber window seals for perishing. All panels apart from the front wings are welded on, and most are available from Mercedes-Benz. You can get pattern equivalents, but they often need extra fettling before they will
fit satisfactorily. Accident damage is also a possibility, so carefully inspect the front chassis legs and inner panels to see if they’re rippled. 

ENGINE

Engines should be capable of racking up 300,000 miles, and oil changes every 6000 miles will help prolong an engine’s lifetime. Also check whether regular coolant changes have taken place – it is vital that proper antifreeze with the correct inhibitors has been used, in order to guard against internal corrosion. 

Blue smoke suggests worn valve stems, so changing them every 75,000 miles is recommended, along with the timing chain and tensioner. Keep an eye on the temperature gauge – if the radiator has become clogged up with silt then the V8s will run hot. Camshaft wear is another common issue on cars that haven’t been looked after properly, resulting in a clicking from the engine. If this has happened then the cam followers and possibly even the chain will have been affected, too. 

Automatic gearboxes are the most common choice. Earlier cars have a fluid flywheel that can become temperamental when engaging first gear; from 1975 onwards, a torque converter was used instead. With all ‘boxes, check for excessive noise or difficulties when engaging gears. A vibration from the transmission indicates worn propshaft couplings. Replacement exhausts can be expensive, so look for bodged ‘dual’ systems – if there is no balance pipe between the front downpipes on V8s it will run rougher. Mercedes-Benz used a different firing order to most American cars and the balance pipe helps tuning as well as smooth running. Stainless systems last for much longer, but due to the lighter gauge metal they are usually a bit louder, so consider this before you buy.

RUNNING GEAR

Loose handling is usually down to tired shock absorbers, although bushes also deteriorate noticeably, especially on high-mileage cars. Worn subframe mountings can also seriously affect handling, especially on the more powerful V8 models. Steering dampers also deteriorate, as do power steering boxes, most commonly after 90,000 miles have been racked up. Beware of fitting aftermarket alloy wheels – they may look good, but bigger-than-standard items can really affect the feel of an SL and how it drives.

INTERIOR

Four different trim options were offered over the years: leather, MB-tex, cloth or vinyl. Cloth is the least durable, followed by vinyl, leather and finally the über-resilient MB-tex. Seat covers in the latter are available quite reasonably, and even original pattern ones in leather are not too bad, so any typical tears or split seams in the driver’s seat need not be a
deal-breaker. The hood should be a good quality padded one; while there are cheap vinyl replacements around, they look just that – cheap. 

OUR VERDICT

If you’re after a stylish, sharp-suited roadster to potentially use all year round, then look
no further. The R107 SL was improved continuously throughout its 18-year lifespan, with the result that the later the car, the better it is – run-out models from 1989 are most buyer’s top choices. SLs are rarely cheap to buy and the repair bills can be eye-watering, but they do make up for this by remaining a solid investment. The golden rule is to buy the best car you can afford. Happily though, once you’ve found the right car for you, R107s can be enjoyed in much the same way as a modern Mercedes-Benz, with all the reliability you’d expect in that regard but with infinitely more character and personality.

Mercedes-Benz

MERCEDES-BENZ SEC REVIEW

You will feel like the chairman of the board with this Mercedes super coupé

These cars were in production from 1981-91, proving that there is little wrong with the design, luxury or longevity of the model. You’ll appreciate the SEC’s bias toward luxury and refinement and revel in the myriad details designed to make the driver’s life easier. 

And when we say luxury, take note; driving an SEC is about as relaxing as they come. Performance is more than adequate by anyone’s standards, especially given today’s speed-limited road environment. Suspension settings are biased toward comfort, with no real-world limit on handling prowess. 

Comfort and space are both superb, even in the back, and and even if you’re tall. And if you want to drive a car that shows taste, wealth and style, this C126 will fulfill every 1980s fantasy you can imagine. Just don’t buy a bad one and turn what can be among the best dreams imaginable into a nightmare. 

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VITAL STATISTICS

MERCEDES 500SEC 1981-85

Engine                                    4973cc/V8/OHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  245bhp@4750rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 286lb ft@3750rpm

Top speed                                140mph

0-60mph                                  7.9sec

Consumption                            17.5mpg  

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WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

All panels are C126-specific; no saloon skins here. Wheel trims and alloy wheels are carried over – and the style of the car is similar to the four-door variants. Ribbed rear lights were designed to discourage the accumulation of dirt, and shields ahead of the door handles helped stop them from leaving filthy deposits. The A-pillars were braced to the bulkhead by steel rods which ensured the car was solid enough to forego B-posts, as with every Mercedes coupé since the 1960s. The rear screen seal is a weak spot, causing rotten bulkheads by virtue of leaks – open the boot and look up under the back window. While there, check the condition of the rear screen itself. Replacements are available, but at a price. Rear arches and sills rot, so check for filler and fresh paint. The underseal can come away from corroding floorpans, accelerating corrosion beneath.

The bonnet, boot and rear bulkhead are made from aluminium skins wrapped over steel support frames. It is important to make sure there is no electrolytic corrosion present at the panel edges. 

ENGINE

Powered by a 5.0-litre variant of the Mercedes M117 V8, the 500SEC is clearly a potent machine. Fortunately, it’s also the most common. It is easy to maintain, reliable, and diagnosis of any issues is relatively straightforward. Spares are available from Mercedes-Benz, but don’t come cheap. If you’re running a C126 on a budget, we advise you find a Mercedes specialist. If the car has its original plastic radiator, chemicals used in some coolants can damage it – the upper hose neck can fail. Servicing should be done at 12,000‑mile intervals. 

ELECTRICS

C126s are packed full of toys – make sure they all work; the more broken gadgets, the costlier the car will be to put back to how it should be.  Dashboards are shared with the W126 saloons, though the rev counter replaced the analogue clock in saloon models (a digital clock should sit in the centre of the speedo). The electric seats are unique too, with the fronts featuring a pneumatic locking system to hold the squab up while the car is in motion. 

RUNNING GEAR

Gearboxes tend to be durable. Most cars are fitted with four-speed automatic transmission. Ensure transmission fluid is the correct red colour, there are no leaks and that there is no transmission slip or strange noises. 

BRAKES

Although SECs never got hydro-pneumatic suspension, the swinging-caliper brakes are unique to the car, but most other mechanical parts are shared with the rest of the W126 range. This means they’re both tough and easy to source. While the steering ratio was altered to give a more engaging feel, steering components are interchangeable.

INTERIOR

There’s not much wood inside, but there’s plenty of leather – check for nicks, tears, or other damage. Re-trims are not cheap. Many came with velour, which is less desirable but tougher.

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OUR VERDICT

These Mercedes represent astonishing value for the luxury and build quality they offer. They’re still at the bottom of their value curve, with some potential buyers put off by the cost of fuelling these beasts, and others unable to find examples in good enough condition to campaign as classics. 

Customers for new SECs would have included company directors, football managers and millionaires who were after something a little more subtle than the usual Rolls-Royce, but these days they’re seriously cheap. V8 engines have cachet, with the 500 and 560 models only one rung shy of the supercar elite, thanks to its speed and power. Buy one and it feels like you’re treating yourself. Being an old Merc, the sense of solidity is ever-apparent – you feel indestructible in one of these old barges. People say Mercs are competent but bland, but this large, two‑door coupé seems to confound this view. Does it have soul? Your decision. What is for certain, is that it’s one of the bargains of the century.

From the satisfying thunk of the door, to the thoughtful detailing, and quality of the trim and bodywork, you’ll love the SEC. Should you decide to buy one, you’ll probably find it more comfortable, reliable and spacious than your daily driver. Could it be all the car you’ll ever need? The classless lines and the fresh design – conforming to Mercedes ideals of creating shapes that are timeless and stylish while never conforming to the latest fashion – lift the SEC above the humdrum. 

A real plus point for this car is the build-quality. Durability is its middle name, while it delivers great comfort for any long-distance journey planned. The only difficulty it seems you’ll have is finding one of low enough mileage to warrant buying, and then refraining from adding to its total.

Mercedes-Benz