SUNBEAM RAPIER REVIEW

You’d be forgiven for thinking this be-finned Sunbeam looks like a shrunken Studebaker. Indeed it shares some resemblance to the US firm’s 1953 range, thanks to both being styled by designer Raymond Loewy. Thanks to its generous helpings of fins and chrome, it’s a glamorous classic with room for four, and if you buy carefully, it shouldn’t cost a fortune to run either. 

VITAL STATISTICS

Sunbeam Rapier Series IIIA

Engine                                    1592cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  80bhp@5100rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 88lb ft@3800rpm

Top speed                                90mph

0-60mph                                  19.3sec

Consumption                           29mpg

Gearbox                                    4-spd manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Like many of the Rootes Group’s offerings from this era, rust is a major Rapier bug-bear. It didn’t come with inner wheel arches so the area behind the wheels should be one of your first places to check. Ideally, a well looked after car will have been treated with oil here by its previous owners. Mechanical parts are cheap and plentiful. But with body and trim items the challenge is finding the right ones for a given car, as the chrome in particular changed as the range evolved. The SIII also had a bigger windscreen than its predecessors.

ENGINE

The Rapier received a series of engines throughout its life, ranging from 1390cc-1725cc. They’re durable, but engines after the Series IIIA used alloy rather than steel heads, and are more likely to suffer head gasket problems. The Series IIIA had a larger engine than previous models, and the additional torque helped give it durability. Poor hot starting/stalling could be down to a poor quality NOS rotor arm, while high ethanol content in modern petrol can strip the paint from inside the fuel tank and allow it to contaminate the fuel pump and lines.

ELECTRICS

The only real issue concerns the dynamo fitted to the earlier models, which often needs replacing, especially on cars fitted with better headlights.

RUNNING GEAR

A worn or damaged synchro hub or baulk ring will result in an unpleasantly crunchy gearbox, while oil will seep from the seal-less timing cover if it isn’t fitted dead-centre on the pulley shaft.

The good news is that many of the Rapier’s mechanical components are shared with its siblings from across the Rootes Group – the Sunbeam Alpine and Hillman Minx, in particular – which helps keep prices of spares down. Suspension, steering and braking systems were gradually improved as the Rapier evolved, but they are generally free of any particularly problems if they’ve been looked after. Push down firmly on all four corners of the car and listen for any unusual creaking or clunking noises, which may indicate worn suspension components. Failed overdrives (they were standard fitment) can usually be sorted by replacing the operating switch or its wiring, or the solenoid on the side of the overdrive unit itself.

INTERIOR

On convertibles, check the hood for scratches or tears, and look for evidence of water ingress. Parts for the Rapier’s interior can prove tricky to track down if they’re missing or damaged, so it’s worth joining the owners club. The design (and therefore part number) for the control knob on the demister levers, for instance, changed eight times throughout the Rapier’s life!

OUR VERDICT

If you fancy something with a bit of 1950s glitz but find the fuel bills associated with American classics hard to stomach then the Rapier stacks up as more than just a stylish alternative. Not only does it look the part, but it’s practical enough to use as a family-friendly classic. True, it’s rarer and less obvious than Triumph’s rival Herald. Best advice is to join the club and make use of friendships there to give support and help you avoid any major headaches.

SUNBEAM TIGER REVIEW

The Rootes wannabe-Cobra is still within the bounds of affordability, but don't be complacent

The Alpine was already a fine sports car, but it was always crying out for a little more power. The Tiger blessed it with rather more speed – 60mph now coming up in less than 10 seconds compared to 14 for the quickest Alpine. Of course, it’s not just about the power – that lazy Ford V8 provides the perfect, burbling sound-track. 

The steering is sweeter than an Alpine too, thanks to the rack-and-pinion steering, though behind the wheel, you’re always aware of the standard brakes. It’s easy to see why some go for upgrades, especially if you like pushing on. As a tourer, the Tiger works very nicely. It’ll potter along majestically at motorway speeds and if the wind gets too much, the soft-top is one of the best out there. One thing’s for sure, you stop querying the vast value difference over Alpines once that engine starts pulling.

VITAL STATISTICS

Sunbeam Tiger MkI

Engine                                    4260cc/8-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  164bhp@4400rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 258lb ft@2200rpm

Top speed                                118mph

0-60mph                                  9.5sec

Consumption                            18mpg 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Corrosion can strike around the windscreen frame, so gently check it isn’t prone to movement. Check the roof for condition – it’s a really snug soft-top which should be a tight fit, with no air or water leaks. A handful of Tigers were built to GT spec which, like the equivalent Alpine, means you only got a hardtop with no soft-top fitted.

ENGINE

Identity is everything and we really must recommend that you contact the Sunbeam Tiger Owners’ Club for expert advice. ID plates are one thing, but the club holds the original Jensen ledgers, which show numbers for engines and gearboxes. Top money is only paid for highly original, genuine Tigers. The market is rightly very wary of cars where the ID is suspicious – quite a few Alpines have been converted. You don’t want to pay ‘genuine’ money for a car that isn’t the real thing.

RUNNING GEAR

On a Mk1, check that the correct 260 cubic inch V8 is installed. Some are tempted to drop in the larger 289 unit of the MkII, for which there are many more tuning parts available. It was a powerplant fitted to a great many cars. Does the engine number match the V5? The unit itself is very robust, with few foibles if cared for. It does generate a lot of heat though, so keep an eye on the temperature gauge. Make sure the Ford four-speed gearbox changes nicely. Some fit five-speed units. The inner wings were modified by Jensen to allow fitment of the V8 and a steering rack is fitted as there was no room for the box of the Alpine. That rack is unique to the Tiger, so make sure it is free of play. 

The rear axle has some serious power to contend with. It’s a Salisbury unit, so it should be up to the job. The downside is that they can be ferociously expensive to overhaul. They tend to howl very noticeably when they’re getting tired, 

so tune out that V8 for a moment. A Panhard
rod helps with rear axle location, so check its mountings for rot. Tired rear springs will leave
the back end sagging, so have a glance at the
ride height.

The exhaust system is simple enough that while original parts are no longer available, there’s not usually a problem getting a system made up to suit. Make sure it isn’t striking the underside.

BRAKES

Incredibly, the brakes are stock Alpine, so don’t be surprised if modifications to boost stopping power have occurred. Some are now fitting Peugeot 406 calipers. While in this area, check for corrosion around the suspension mounting points, and the front wings. A complete wing will set you back £585. Panels are getting hard to find, even though most of it is stock Alpine. Watch for rot sneaking from the wheelarch into the sill. Underneath, there’s an X-frame welded to the body to create a monocoque. Rot in the frame or surroundings can be very tricky to eradicate.

INTERIOR

Finding trim is difficult, whether that’s inside or out. Check the interior carefully for water ingress and condition. Behind the front seats, check the floor thoroughly as the rear suspension mounts are located here. 

OUR VERDICT

Sadly, the market seems to be cottoning on to the Tiger, and values have been rising. That’s not surprising when you see what AC Cobras are starting to make – the Cobra started with the same engine as the Tiger. So, they’re not cheap but they really do deliver. 

SUNBEAM TALBOT 90 MKIII REVIEW

Prices are rising for these saloons, so now is the perfect time to take a look

The Ryton-built Sunbeam Talbot 90 range was launched in 1948 and evolved into the MkIII version by 1956 when production ended. Changes included enlarged air intakes on each side of the front grille, and three ‘porthole’ vents at the rear of the front wings. Independent front suspension was also added as was a larger, more powerful engine that was based on a Humber unit – both of which vastly improved the handling and driveability of the 90. The Talbot name was dropped for this version too. 

VITAL STATISTICS

Sunbeam 90 MkIII

Engine                                    2267cc/4-cylinder/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  80bhp@4400rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 121lb ft@2400rpm

Top speed                                93mph

0-60mph                                  17.4sec

Consumption                            23mpg

Gearbox                                    4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

Rust is something of a problem with the 90. It can strike in all the expected places including the front wings, particularly around the headlamps, front cooling vents, and at the rear where they meet the doors. Pay close attention to the sills, bottoms of the doors, the inner and outer skin of the rear wheel arches, and the lower edge of the boot lid. Other trouble spots include the spare wheel well, and the point where the rear wing and boot floor meet – the felt pads applied to the inside of the panels soak up moisture.  

ENGINE

The Humber-based unit is well-proven and durable with regular maintenance, and came with a cylinder head and alloy con-rods that were unique to the 90. Oil leaks from the sump and rear main crankshaft seal can be an annoyance but are easily cured, while a healthy cooling system is vital for longevity. Silting-up of the engine block and radiator can cause hot running so watch for signs of overheating on the test drive. Replacing the radiator with an uprated unit from the Alpine is a popular and worthwhile modification. 

RUNNING GEAR

The 90 was fitted with a four-speed manual ‘box and column shift as standard, with overdrive an optional extra (worth having for the improved cruising ability). Apart from worn synchromesh and shift linkages there is little to worry about here, though it’s worth mentioning that a conversion to a floor-mounted shift was a popular modification. A dealership in Leicester offered these in period, the fitting of a Hillman Hunter gearbox being a more recent solution – expect to pay somewhere over £2000 for this to be done. It’s not unheard of for cracks to appear in the rear axle carrier around the differential, which is bad news as parts are hard to obtain, so don’t ignore any problems here. Other issues to watch for include play in the steering box, worn front wishbone mounts and kingpins, leaking dampers; and sagging rear leaf springs. The drum brakes are more than up to the task of slowing the heavy Sunbeam as long as they have been set-up properly, so the attention of a specialist is often all that’s needed to improve braking performance.  

INTERIOR

Check leather seats, carpets, and door trims carefully and adjust the asking price accordingly if they are particularly tatty. Old wiring can present a risk on any classic of this age, more so if previous owners have been tempted to uprate lighting. One area worth checking closely is the sliding sunroof that was fitted as standard to the 90 range. Make sure there are no signs of water leaks.

OUR VERDICT

If you’re after a spacious, comfortable classic then the Sunbeam 90 makes a lot of sense. Solid build quality and good driving manners make it very usable on a daily basis as well as ideal for long-distance touring. So all told a good all-rounder which is what many of us want from our classic car. The 90 is decent value at the moment too, and although prices are slowly rising for the best examples, a well-cared for car shouldn’t break the bank to run.

SUZUKI CAPPUCCINO REVIEW

If you want economy motoring but don’t want to have to cut back on the fun factor, the Cappuccino is the car for you. Offering plenty of fun per pound, you don’t need more than four grand to snap up something nice, and despite a tiny three-cylinder engine up front, there’s more performance on offer than you’d ever imagine. You’re also onto a winner when it comes to running costs, because 45mpg is no problem and as long as you look after one, a Cappuccino is reliable, so you don’t need many new bits to keep one going.
Despite those compact dimensions, you’ll also find plenty of room inside the snug cabin, as long as you’re not well over six feet tall. The Cappuccino is brilliantly adaptable, as it converts between fully open and fully closed with the minimum of fuss. You can also go for a half-way option, by leaving the sliding rear window in place. However, if you’ve got luggage to carry, that might be all you can manage as the boot is tiny. But there are plenty of people in the Cappuccino club who use their cars every day – and love every minute of doing so.
Only 1110 examples of the UK-spec Cappuccino were sold in the UK between 1993 and 1995; 80 per cent were painted red and the rest were silver. UK sales ended in 1995, but Japanese buyers then got a revised Cappuccino. It had a different engine, optional three-speed automatic transmission, power steering plus ABS, driver’s airbag and LSD.
Total Cappuccino production was 28,010; lots of cars now in the UK were originally sold in Japan – including some examples of the highly desirable post-1995 model. While these later cars are unusual over here, they’re well worth seeking out.

VITAL STATISTICS

Suzuki Cappuccino

Engine 657cc/3-cyl/DOHC

Power 63bhp@6500rpm

Torque 63ft lb@4000rpm

Top speed 93mph

0-60mph 11sec

Gearbox 5-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

These cars weren’t particularly well rust-proofed as Japan doesn’t use salt on its roads. Even official UK type-approved cars didn’t get much rust protection – the floorpans were pretty much untreated despite a six-year anti-corrosion warranty. As a result, the floorpans, sills and wheelarches (inner and outer) all corrode, along with the headlight supports and inner wings. Indeed there can be corrosion all around the engine bay, so lift the bonnet and check.

The roof panels, boot lid and bonnet are all aluminium, which is great for reducing weight, but not so good when it comes to dent resistance. Bearing in mind the high replacement cost, check them closely.

If you can find a car that‘s been Waxoyled from new, you’re in luck – even better if it’s been retreated every few years. However, even rusty cars can be revived as everything is available apart from floorpans – but reviving a Cappuccino professionally costs at least £5000.

Engines It might be a spiritual successor to the Spridget, but the Cappuccino is a lot more complex. Along with a turbocharger and intercooler there’smulti-point fuel injection and a pair of overhead camshafts acting on a quartet of valves for each cylinder. Crucially, even though the Cappuccino features a 657cc engine, you can expect the triple to last well over 100,000 miles if looked after.

Buying a car with history is desirable as the engine needs its oil changed every 6000 miles. Although there’s a turbocharger, it’s usually very reliable, but if it fails you’re looking at £695 for a replacement plus a couple of hours to fit it – assume a total bill of around £900 from a specialist such as Cappuccino Sport. Check for white smoke and untoward noises – you should be able to hear it working, but it shouldn’t be particularly loud. More likely is a cracked cast-iron exhaust manifold; they fatigue with the constant heating and cooling. Various replacements are available from £120; tubular stainless steel items are popular at around £600.

If the car has had its restrictor removed, or if it’s had its brain remapped (chipped), the chances are the car has seen some hard use. The ECU is located in the passenger side footwell; any aftermarket ECU cover will be obvious, although most owners own up, as they see these things as a selling point.

Cambelts need changing every 60,000 miles – on any high-mileage car it’s worth replacing it as a matter of course.

TRANSMISSION

Second gear synchro usually wears out within 60,000 miles, so try to beat it on the test drive. If all doesn’t seem well, haggle hard on price, as although the part needed is only £50, the labour rates to fit it will soon push up the cost to £400. The rest of the transmission is strong, but clutches can prove weak on hard-driven cars, so check for any slipping as you accelerate through the gears.

SUSPENSION & BRAKES

There’s nothing to worry about with a Cappuccino’s suspension, except for the possibility of tired dampers. It’s the same with the brakes; with discs at each corner and a kerb weight of just 725kg, the system doesn’t have to work too hard.

INTERIOR

The trim may look like it’s leather, but it isn’t. It is hard-wearing though, so any car that’s looking tatty is neglected.

The ious roof and door seals perish, leading to water leaks into the cabin. Sets of new seals are available for £239 per set, and they’re easy enough to fit; the biggest problem is reviving an interior that’s got damp.

It’s easy enough to pick up a set of overmats for the footwells; at £46 per set, they’re worth it in order to protect the factory-fitted trim.

VERDICT

Despite the tiny numbers associated with the Cappuccino, it’s a surprisingly useable car. You don’t need any special tools to service a Cappuccino, although any owner should join the Suzuki Cappuccino Owners’ Register for Enthusiasts (SCORE), which has a deal with ious Suzuki dealers around the country, allowing you to get discounted servicing.

If there’s a downside to Cappuccino ownership, it’s high parts prices; consumables are cheap enough, but replacement headlights are £375 for example. That’s why you must make sure any Cappuccino you’re thinking of buying is in good condition, or priced to sell. Get a good one and you won’t believe just how much fun such a small car can be.

TALBOT SUNBEAM LOTUS REVIEW

The Talbot Sunbeam-Lotus was introduced to a shocked market in the summer of 1979. With an up-gunned 2.2-litre version of the twin-cam motor that had been used in the Jensen-Healey sports car, it offered 155bhp in road trim, while competition cars pumped out 230bhp. 
The Sunbeam-Lotus production process was an interesting one, and it is obvious why only so few were made. Each car started life at Linwood as a 1.6GLS, but received stiffer springing and damping, along with a larger anti-roll bar, stiffer suspension mounts and tougher gearbox casings at the factory. The cars were then shipped to Lotus at Hethel in Norfolk, for the installation of the engine and ZF gearbox, before being taken to the Stoke works in Coventry for final pre-delivery inspections. The production process may have been convoluted, but the end result was a stunning road car. By the time production was halted in 1981, Lotus claimed to have built 2298 examples, although Talbot said an extra 10 were produced, probably due to pre-production and works rally car builds completed by the factory.
 

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine 2170cc/4-cyl/DOHC
Power 150bhp @ 5750rpm
Torque 150lb ft @ 4500rpm
Top Speed 121mph
0-60mph 7.4sec
Economy 19mpg
Gearbox 5-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

Bonnets rot out at their front edges, as do the headlamp boxes attached to the inner wings. There is also a mud-trap just above and behind the indicator unit. Front wheelarch lips can rust away, but inner wings should be your biggest concern – strut tops corrode, as can the lower inner wings, so check them carefully. Original panels are difficult to source, and while repro panels are available, they’re not cheap, so do bear this in mind. Another common rot spot is the front of the footwell, where it meets the bulkhead/inner wing joint. Mud gets lodged inside the back of the wing and the screen rubbers often leak – a nasty combination that can lead to horrible levels of rust. Also check carefully along all the sills and door bottoms. Finally, make sure you examine the rear arches, rear valance and boot floor, where the underfelt acts like a sponge.

Hard-driven cars with major engine upgrades have been known to suffer from cracks in the front chassis members, just to the rear of the ARB mounts. Such cracks are a serious problem, so make sure you check them scrupulously and don’t miss them, especially if they’re hidden by underseal. Welding plates over the cracks can solve the problem, but the whole crossmember may need replacing – either way, a whole lot of dismantling will be required.

ENGINE

General maintenance is surprisingly straightforward, with decent parts availability and no special tools required. Be aware that the Lotus engine is fragile if not serviced properly – its essential that both the oil and filter are replaced every 5000 miles, with top-notch oil used – fully synthetic is fine. The cambelt and tensioner must also be replaced at least every 25,000 miles or two years. When viewing a car, ask whether the previous owner has kept on top of this. Stick to these rules and the powerplant is easily capable of achieving more than 100,000 miles. Even better, it will happily run on Super Unleaded, too – some enthusiastic owners also add an octane booster to spice things up even further.

Be wary of regular Talbot Sunbeams being passed off as the real thing. Check everything against the V5C if you’re concerned about authenticity – the VIN plate can be found in front of the radiator and the engine number is stamped between the starter motor and the cam housing. A Lotus shell has a larger transmission tunnel for the ZF gearbox – though not the same as an automatic gearbox tunnel – plus folded-back wheelarch lips to accommodate the large alloys and the modification of the inner rear panel to allow the spare to fit.

RUNNING GEAR

The ZF gearbox is a tough old unit, but make sure that it is still fitted to the car – the casing is highly sought-after by Escort rally car builders. When cold, it can be tricky finding second gear; however, when warm, changes should be smooth. If the car has been used for competition in the past, check the tubes where they meet the differential housing for twists, looking for looseness or general play. Fitting a limited-slip diff is another popular modification, particularly with competition in mind, so find out what has been fitted when viewing a prospective purchase

INTERIOR

Interior-wise, the original Series 1 pale grey Sharktooth material is harder-wearing than the S2 striped Piccadilly material. Regardless of this, both are difficult to find these days. For moulded components such as the rear wheelarch covers, however, the reverse is true – S2 items in black are hardier than grey S1 versions.

VERDICT

If you’re after a hot hatch, but fancy something more exclusive than a Golf GTI or 205GTI, the Talbot Sunbeam-Lotus fits the bill perfectly. In an era when everyone else was plumping for modern front-wheel drive set-ups, Talbot was busy doing the right thing and sending it to the back. Remember, Lotus probably knew more about how to set up a car in 1979 than most people do now, so the Sunbeam-Lotus is an extremely sweet little package, as well as being hugely rewarding to drive. It even has an impressive competition pedigree, too. A regular on the world rally stage between 1979 and 1982, it won the Lombard RAC Rally in 1980 and took the World Rally Championship the following year. With that heritage, combined with the fantastic sound it makes when you open it up, the Sunbeam-Lotus is seriously enticing.

BOND BUG REVIEW

It might look like a cross between Thunderbird 4 and a space hopper, but if you want a classic to bring a smile to your face, then look no further than the Bond Bug.

Just one look at a Bond Bug is enough to know that it’s a child of the 1970s. The bug was the result of an unlikely tie-up between Reliant and Czech designer, Tom Karen. Reliant had just bought the Bond name, but weren’t quite sure what to do with it. Enter the Bug – Karen’s wacky design was the kind of car you tended to see in concept form at a motor show, but Reliant must have been feeling adventurous, since they put it into full production.

Despite its obvious deficiency in the wheel department, the threewheeler cost more than a Mini or Hillman Imp when new. Stop at a shop, and by the time you’ve climbed out, it’s as though all the children in the world have come out to see you. Draw up outside any pub or club you can think of, and there won’t be another car with a bigger crowd around it.

It’s easy to see the Bug’s appeal today too. Classic car buyers care less about the practicalities – the emphasis is on fun, an area in which the little Bond excels. And if you’re in the market for a car that looks like a wedge of Red Leicester on wheels, then your search is definitely over.

At the wheel

Open the canopy and the entire top of the car swings up and forward, aircraft-style. The cockpit is roomy, but very snug. There are no concessions to glamour everything is ergonomic, functional, a little austere, even. The seats look like astronauts’ couches and you sit almost full length – the classic, straight-arm position of the racing driver – a position that’s surprisingly comfortable once you’re used to it.

Between your knees is the 12-inch steering wheel. The controls are orthodox, though, with everything where you expect it to be. The steering response may be more immediate than you’re used to, but you have far more sense of control than you do with a conventional car. Partly, this is because of the exceptional response of three-wheel suspension, which makes for sure, safe handling, with or without a passenger. But there is another very important reason the Bug’s wedge shape. It cuts through the air rather like the bow of a ship slicing cleanly through the water. This means the Bug has a very low drag coefficient, good stability in high winds and excellent ‘anti-lift’ characteristics.

Our verdict

The Bug does not claim to be a sports car; there are plenty of those around if that’s what floats your boat. No, the Bug is something else – a fun car. If most of your driving is workaday A-to-B, the Bug could be exactly what you need. It is cheap to run, quick to get in and out of, and highly manoeuvrable. It has a surprisingly useable boot, and can top 200 miles on a single tank of fuel. Reliant sourced its parts from all over the place too the headlights were donated by the Austin Allegro; the Mini provided the drum brakes; and the bootlock’s usual home is on the glovebox of a Triumph Dolomite. Also, it is remarkably easy to park. You can drive the centre wheel right up to the kerb, and you don’t have to leave room at the sides for the doors to open. It is, in fact, an excellent little runabout.

BOND EQUIPE REVIEW

If you want a British coupé that’s brimming with character, then the Bond Equipe could be for you...

The Bond Equipe coupé was launched in 1963. Known as the GT2+2, it utilised the robust and adaptable chassis from the Triumph Herald clothed in a mixture of steel and glassfibre panels and was initially fitted with the 1147cc engine from the Spitfire, while later versions gained higher-capacity Spitfire engines.

VITAL STATISTICS

Bond Equipe GT2+2

Engine                                    1147cc/4-cylinder/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  63bhp@5750rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 67lb ft@3500rpm

Top speed                                90mph

0-60mph                                  17.6sec

Consumption                            30mpg

Gearbox                                    4-spd manual
 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

The mix of steel and GRP used in the Equipe means careful checks are needed. Rot in that Herald chassis is a concern so you’ll need to check areas such as the outriggers and chassis rails as well as the bulkhead, scuttle panel, sills, floorpan, doors, rear wheel arches, and windscreen frame. Apart from the doors, the majority of the upper panels are GRP. Quality varied between cars when new so watch for cracks and crazing that indicate damage, and pay particular attention to the large front-hinged bonnet and the hinges themselves. 

A good look at the body mounting points is advisable too – a car that feels baggy or rattly on the test drive could have problems here. Check the boot area, too as there should be wooden panels covering both the spare wheel well and sides. These are often rotten, damaged, or completely missing.

ENGINE

The Triumph engines are well-proven and are neither costly nor difficult to overhaul in the main. Oil leaks, excessively smoky exhausts, and general neglect are the main problems, though early Spitfire units suffered from wear in the crankshaft thrust washers. Fore/aft movement of the crank pulley when the engine is off and the clutch is depressed means trouble and failure will damage the block, effectively destroying the engine. Cooling systems need to be up to scratch so watch for signs of overheating although flushing the system and fitting a new radiator will usually cure any problems. Otherwise, proof of regular servicing will provide peace of mind. Interestingly the Stromberg carburettors of the 2.0-litre Vitesse engine were normally of American specification, and adjustment screws can be sealed due to emissions regulations – worth bearing in mind if the car runs poorly.

RUNNING GEAR

Worn synchro on second gear and rattling layshaft bearings (the noise should disappear when the clutch is pressed) are the main issues, while a sloppy gear linkage is easily sorted.  Mk II models used ‘Rotoflex’ rubber couplings for the driveshafts – vibration from the rear of the car meaning replacement is imminent. The disc/drum brakes are trouble-free and cheaply overhauled while the suspension should be reliable with regular fettling. The rack and pinion steering should feel sharp, so anything else points to perished rack mounts or a worn column universal joint. 

INTERIOR

Improving a tired interior isn’t difficult, but its worth nothing that many may have been modified over the years. The ‘ambla’ vinyl fitted to some models is difficult to find, and you should check convertibles for signs of water ingress. Most important is the Les Leston wooden wheel that some cars were fitted with, they are getting very valuable, so take this into account when negotiating.

OUR VERDICT

With style and rarity in its favour, not to mention terrific value, it isn’t hard to see why the Bond Equipe holds such appeal. The mix of steel and GRP construction can make major restoration a costly affair, but find a good one and the Triumph underpinnings mean day-to-day running costs are very wallet-friendly. The helpful and enthusiastic owners club offers a wealth of knowledge and advice too.

BENTLEY TURBO R REVIEW

Boasting an enormous price tag when new – comfortably in excess of £100,000 in 1990 – the Bentley Turbo R is now the luxury bargain of the 21st Century. The best thing is that Turbo Rs make absolute sense as a driving machine too. A generous prod on the accelerator elicits a rush of energy that launches you past lesser vehicles. If you’re in a post-1990 model complete with clever active suspension, you’ll enjoy total composure in the corners, too. Tempted?

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Bodywork

The first Turbo Rs are now 25 years old, so despite excellent build quality when new, they will rust if neglected. Rear wheelarches are particularly prone to corrosion if the car hasn’t been cared for. Make sure you examine up inside the arch, as well as down at either end of the sill. Water gets in at both ends, but especially the front. The rear valance can also corrode, and it is well hidden behind the rear bumper, so be thorough with your examination. Under the car, front outriggers can rot on higher mileage cars, while the rear spring pans should also be checked closely.

Engine

Pre-1987 carburettor-fed examples are less popular because the complex Solex four-choke unit has a poor reputation for reliability. They can also suffer from hot-starting issues, unknown on fuel-injected models. Either motor should cruise beyond 200,000 miles without requiring major attention, provided that proper service intervals
have been respected.
Poor starting, pinking, uneven idling or lack of responsiveness could be anything from a leaking inlet manifold to an engine management fault, the latter more common on post-1994 cars. Take a test drive and keep a close eye on the temperature gauge – steer clear of anything that overheats. Cooling leaks can quickly become serious, so check carefully for drips or weeping hoses anywhere in the system. Minor oil leaks are par for the course on a 50-year-old engine design, but liberal coatings of oil on the underside should find you walking away. Leaking turbo oil feed pipes are another bad sign
– a loss of oil feed will cause the turbo to fail, with potentially catastrophic results, so be on your guard.

Running Gear

Two sturdy GM automatic gearboxes were used through the production span of the Turbo R. The three-speeder used until 1992 is simpler, but the later four-speeder gives better flexibility, acceleration and economy. Both should find all their gears without hesitation. Transmission fluid should always look pink and clean. You might hear a whine from the differential on high-mileage cars, suggesting a hard life. They will go on like this for a while, but clunks or rumbles are a definite no-no.
Suspension-wise, both standard (pre-1990) and active suspension should provide excellent ride quality. A well looked after car shouldn’t feel loose or sloppy, even over a poor surface. When they need replacing, the active dampers are very expensive, so haggle accordingly if this is required. Power steering is standard on all models. Leaks can occur from the pump, the rack and the connecting hoses. 

Interior and Electrics

It is unlikely you will find a car where the cabin has been mistreated, but look out for dirty leather, worn carpets and pedal rubbers, and untidy boot linings. All of these symptoms point to a car that hasn’t been treated with sufficient respect. Veneer door cappings and dash sections can fade due to sunlight, so avoid cracked or peeling varnish. Ensure exterior chrome isn’t pitted – the hefty, impact-absorbing bumpers should also be straight and free from scratches.

OUR VERDICT

Turbo Rs are complex machines, so seek expert advice both before and after you buy. Buying one privately can be worth the saving over a specialist dealer’s price, but you will be glad of a reputable trader’s guarantee should things go wrong. Rough examples can have a thirst for cash that’s bigger than their thirst for fuel. Get a good one, however, and it can be astonishing value for money. But be careful – once you’ve acquired a taste for the high life, you may find it hard to settle for anything less.

BENTLEY 3 1/2 LITRE DERBY REVIEW

It looks classic, it drives well and you look like Cruella DeVille. What's not to like? 

The Bentley sporting tradition was maintained following the acquisition of the financially troubled company by Rolls-Royce Motors Ltd in 1931. It was 1933 before the ''Silent Sportscar'' was announced, developed from the experimental Rolls-Royce 18hp Peregrine chassis and an all-new six-cylinder overhead valve 3,669cc engine for the Bentley 3 1/2-litre. The new cars had a top speed of 90mph, but now with a silence, directly attributable to Rolls-Royce engineering.

TOYOTA MR2 REVIEW

Squeezing a remarkable amount of driving enjoyment from the bare minimum of component parts, the MR2 can rightly take its place in the sports car hall of fame. Toyota’s engineers were certainly onto a good thing when they readied the baby coupé for its 1984 launch; a mid-engined layout, small but zippy 16-valve powerplant, razor-sharp handling and up-to-the-minute styling.
Others, such as the Fiat X1/9, had already explored this layout, but the MR2’s great strength was adding Toyota’s legendary reliability into the mix. When the first examples started to appear on British roads, they boasted a five-speed gearbox and a gusty 1.6 litres, although overseas markets also received a supercharged version. The more rounded Mk2 version took up the MR2 baton in 1989.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

Although better protected at the factory than many modern classics, rust can still strike with the MR2. Start your inspection checking for evidence of cabin leaks. Whether the car you’re looking at has a T-bar and removable roof panels, or simply a sunroof, water ingress from either will result in damp carpets; check the floor pans for signs of the resultant rust damage. Windscreen pillars can corrode from beneath the bonded-in windscreen.
Inspect the bottom of the rear quarter panels, particularly where they adjoin the B-post. Although most of this area is covered by plastic trim, be on the lookout for bubbling paint around the trim edges; a tell-tale of hidden corrosion. The same can be said for the plastic sill trims, fitted to all but the earliest Mk1s.  

ENGINE & GEAROX

Toyota’s engines are famed for their toughness and reliability, and the MR2’s powerplant is no different. UK-spec cars were fitted with a revvy 16-valve, 1587cc, four-cylinder lump. Mileages well in excess of 150,000 miles can easily be achieved, although a lack of correct maintenance won’t have done the engine any favours.
Ask the vendor how often the car has been serviced, and also ensure that the cambelt has been renewed every 60,000 miles. Failure to do so could have expensive consequences. Look out for signs of moisture in the cooling system, indicating a blown head gasket. With an alloy cylinder head, the correct level of anti-freeze must be maintained. 

RUNNING GEAR

With a tough five-speed gearbox handling the engine’s power, the transmission is as reliable as the engine. On your test drive, watch out for a heavily worn ‘box that jumps out of fifth gear under hard acceleration. Repair is possible, but it may make more sense simply to exchange the entire unit.
Warped disc brakes on early, pre-1985 cars are common, so feel for judder when braking. Later cars were fitted with beefier items at the factory, so are less susceptible. Listen out for knocking while on the move, which could be caused by tired anti-roll bar drop links, or worn-out steering rack or tie-rod end bushes. Bounce each corner of the car in turn; if the car takes time to settle, a damper could be at fault.

INTERIOR & ELECTRONICS

Hard-wearing plastics give little cause for concern, while later leather items can be repaired or re-trimmed, at a price. The controls can give a clue to the car’s true mileage; do a well-worn steering wheel and pedals back up the odometer reading? 
Test the electrical functions, as non-functioning electric windows are costly to put right. Also check the operation of the central locking button.

OUR VERDICT

If ever there was a car that proved that you don’t need a colossal power output and a huge price tag to make a good driver’s car, then the MR2 is it. Absurdly low values mean that, if you choose sensibly, you can track down a driving machine that you will not only enjoy, but will last for an awfully long time. That mid-engined, rear-wheel drive, two-seater layout endows the MR2 with surprising poise, yet its light weight and diminutive size results in a modest thirst.

BENTLEY 4 1/4 LITRE DERBY REVIEW

Is there anything quite as gracious as the Bentley 4 1/4 Derby? 

By the end of the 1930s the Derby Bentley, introduced towards the beginning of that decade following the firms take-over by Rolls-Royce, had undergone a number of significant developments, not the least of which was an increase in bore size in 1936 that upped the capacity to 4,257cc, a move that coincided with the adoption of superior Halls Metal bearings. 

This new engine was shared with the equivalent Rolls-Royce - the 25/30hp - and as had been the case with the preceding 3.5-Litre model, enjoyed a superior specification in Bentley form, boasting twin SU carburettors, raised compression ratio and a more sporting camshaft.

Thus the new 4-Litre model offered more power than before while retaining the well-proven chassis with its faultless gear-change and servo-assisted brakes. The Derby Bentley 4 1/4 was, of course, an exclusively coachbuilt automobile. Of the 2,442 manufactured, almost 50 percent were bodied by Park Ward.

BENTLEY 4 1/2 LITRE SUPERCHARGED REVIEW

Birkin, Rubin, Chassagne, Benjafield, Ramponi, Harcourt-Wood and Kensington-Moir were just some of the legendary names associated with the fabulous supercharged Birkin Team Cars.

Birkins wealth was derived from the Nottingham lace industry and it was his influence and determination that resulted in the supercharged Bentleys, despite W.O. Bentleys personal resistance to the fitting of the blower. Birkins enthusiasm and drive for achieving higher speeds was supported by the forceful Woolf Barnato and the Hon.

Dorothy Pagets money. Although 50 supercharged cars were built there were just five proper Birkin Blowers. These thundering cars raced at such glamorous venues as Le Mans and Brooklands and in the French and Irish Grand Prix and the Ulster Tourist Trophy.

The Birkin cars looked fabulous, sounded breathtaking at full song and their racing achievements were limited only by a design that was perhaps two or three years out of date. Nevertheless the legend of the Birkin Blowers and the people and events linked with that glamorous motor racing epoch live on.

TOYOTA MR2 MKIII REVIEW

How to choose a cracking example of this last-generation mid-engine roadster.

Since its launch in 1984, the ‘Mid-ship Runabout 2’ has impressed buyers with a blend of sharp styling and even sharper dynamics.  The first two generations were available only as coupes, although many were fitted with a lift-out T-bar roof, but for the third and final ‘W30’ model Toyota went the whole hog and produced the car solely as a drop-top roadster.  On sale from 2000-2006 it certainly proved a hit with those after good looks and agile handling without breaking the bank, and the same remains true today.  Much of the enjoyment to be had comes courtesy of the delightfully free-revving 1.8-litre twin-cam motor, and while 140bhp might not sound like much nowadays it’s enough to get the lightweight two-seater to 60mph in less than eight seconds.  And while you have to work the engine to get the best out of it, that’s certainly no hardship as it spins to the 6400rpm power peak with real gusto.  A slick-shifting manual gearbox helps to get the best out of it, too, and while there’s the option of a sequential transmission there’s far more fun to be had by swapping ratios yourself.  Wringing the motor out will also introduce you to another facet of the MR2, and that’s the fine handling.  Again, the modest weight pays dividends as it changes direction with real poise and agility, and thanks to the standard limited-slip differential grip is limpet like in the dry.  Slippery conditions are another matter though, and while it’s not especially tricky the combination of short-ish wheelbase, mid-engine layout, and 55 per cent rearward weight bias demands a degree of respect. The accurate and feelsome steering is the icing on the cake, though, when it comes to a twisty B-road.  Things are pretty pleasant on the inside, too, with a snug but comfortable cabin and all the kit you’re likely to need although trim is on the plasticky side.  And while some people complain of limited luggage space, it’s no worse than similar cars in reality.  And you can always pack light to enjoy everything this cracking roadster has to offer. 

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine           1794cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power            140bhp@6400rpm

Torque          127lb ft@4400rpm

Top speed    130mph

0-60mph        7.9secs

Economy      38mpg

Gearbox        5/6-speed manual/Sequential Manual Transmission

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Bodywork

The majority of the steel panels are bolted on, which makes replacement easier, but it’s well worth checking for any evidence of previous accident damage.  A combination of lively performance and rearward weight bias could have led to some exiting the road backwards so check the history and examine the panel gaps and paintwork for any sign of mismatches.  Parts prices are reasonable, though.

Corrosion doesn’t appear to be a major issue, but with the earliest now fifteen years old a thorough check of the panels makes sense.  Some owners have complained of rot affecting the rear sub-frame and cross-member, and it can be hidden out of sight, so get a specialist to check if you’re unsure.  The same goes for the sills, and you should also check for any signs of interior damp that could have allowed rust to develop: the hood drain holes in the side vents can become blocked allowing water to flow into the cabin.

Engine

The 1ZZ-FED engine is a cracker, but not without issues in pre-facelift cars built before late 2002.  The main one is the potential for the brittle innards of the ‘pre-cat’ – the catalytic convertor located after the exhaust manifold but ahead of the main cat – to break up, with bits ingested into the engine via the EGR system with disastrous consequences.  The cylinder bores get scored leading to high oil consumption and excessive smoke, so ask the vendor whether the engine has been changed or the cats removed.  Not all were affected by any means, but it’s worth checking the history.  Failed oxygen sensors can be common too: three are fitted and it’s often sensible to replace them all at the same time.  OEM items are pricey but best according to specialists.

It’s also worth checking for loose and rattling exhaust heat shields and evidence of oil leaks from around the timing chain tensioner which can be tricky to cure.  The chain itself should be trouble-free as long as oil changes haven’t been neglected.  A fat sheaf of bills gives peace of mind and a well maintained example will cover big mileages without trouble.  Also, these engines respond well to tuning so make sure you’re aware of any work that might have been done here.  The MR2 is well served by specialists and parts suppliers so keeping one in good mechanical fettle will be no problem.

Interior

The cabin is well screwed together, so only abused cars should be showing any significant signs of wear and tear.  Check everything works, though, including the air-conditioning which was standard on factory hard top models.  That top is quite desirable and can be retro-fitted, although a kit is required costing a couple of hundred pounds. Check it hasn’t been damaged by clumsy handling or storage, though.  The convertible hood is a quality item that just need checking for rips and abrasion, but it’s worth noting that if the glass rear window is damaged the whole hood will need replacing.

Transmission

The manual gearboxes are robust unless abused - a six-speed item was standard from late-2002 - but it’s worth ensuring the clutch is healthy as replacement is quite involved.  The facelift also brought the option of the clutch-less Sequential Manual Transmission: it works well on the road but the Bosch electronics can play up and repairs can be costly, so manual is probably best.  A limited-slip differential was standard on all UK cars, and rarely gives trouble.

Suspension and steering

Suspension and steering components can suffer corrosion so examine them carefully, and if the handling isn’t pin-sharp then suspect suspension bushes in need of replacement.  The electric power steering pump isn’t immune from problems either, so be wary of notchiness or uneven assistance at the wheel.  Brakes are trouble-free and just need checking for wear or illumination of the ABS warning light, but the MR2 is tyre-sensitive so look for good quality items that match all round.  The alloy wheels can be prone to corrosion but aren’t expensive to refurbish.

OUR VERDICT

Boasting compact dimensions, sparkling performance, and terrific handling there’s very little not to like about this last generation of MR2.  A cared-for example will be reliable and inexpensive to run, and we’d advise going for a post-facelift example as it benefits from some useful upgrades.  Either way, though, you won’t be disappointed with what this terrific roadster has to offer.

BENTLEY MARK VI REVIEW

If you had a Bentley Mark VI that meant one thing: you had class. 

The MkVI Bentley arrived in May 1946, Rolls-Royce branching out by introducing standard bodywork but retaining the tradition of a separate chassis for their immediate post war models.

The standard steel bodywork was available at first only on the MkVI Bentley, with the equivalent Rolls-Royce Silver Dawn arriving in 1949, coachbuilt examples of course available for those that could afford the expense so soon after hostilities had ceased.

Few coachbuilders were able to significantly enhance the balanced lines of the standard coachwork however. Notable features were independent front suspension and hydraulic front brakes, while a new 4,257cc six-cylinder engine featured inlet over exhaust valve gear and manual transmission.

TOYOTA CELICA GT4 REVIEW

The ST2015 is brilliant, and it's something of a bargain. Check out our buyers guide to find out what you should be looking out for...

The Toyota Cecila GT4 is a bit of a hidden gem these days. Built to tear up stages in the World Rally Championship and introduced as an ST165 version in 1986, it offered all-wheel drive and a turbocharged engine before the likes of Subaru and Mitsubishi got in on the act.

However, by the ST205's launch in 1995, WRC competition was fierce. In fact, it was so desperate that Toyota's rally team was caught competing with an out-of-spec air restrictor, ending its works career with just one win to its name. That's a shame, because as the first car to use anti-lag to keep the turbo spinning off-throttle, it paved the way for many famous rallying machines.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine: 1998cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power: 239bhp@6000rpm

Torque: 223lb ft@4000rpm 

Maximum speed: 152mph

0-60mph: 6.3sec

Fuel consumption: 28-35mpg

Transmission: 4WD, five-spd manual 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Suspension

One of the most expensive things to fix on a GT4 is that clever 'Superstrut' front suspension. The main bit known to fail is called the 'figure eight' camber control link, which joins the damper to the lower front suspension arm. Check for forward and backward movement of the wheel with the car stationary to indicate wear on this part, but also listen for knocking from the front over bumps and under braking. Worn parts are usually replaced as a job lot (upper and lower arms plus figure eight), and it's this plus labour time which pushes the cost up so high. There should be no knocking from the rear of the car either, and if there is, it's likely to be the rear differential mount.

Engine

Make sure it isn't pumping blue smoke out of the exhaust, which could indicate turbo selas (or worse), or white smoke which might mean coolant is finding its way into the cylinders. Both could mean expensive repairs, and could be as a result of poor modifications earlier in the car's life. A damp passenger footwell indicates an expensive heater matrix repair bill impending. Ensure the clutch has been replaced or is in good condition, because replacement is an engine-out job and a day's work in professional mechanical labour.

Bodywork

An all-wheel drive car is fantastic for the winter but in the GT4's case beware of rust - UK-supplied cars suffer from corrosion caused by the salt our gritting lorries spread. If you're looking at an import, check it's been undersealed to prevent expensive repairs. You can tell by looking under the sills and wheel arches for rough-looking black paint.

OUR VERDICT

The Toyota Celica GT4 ST205 is an accessible and reliable performance car that's as proficient in mid-winter as it is on a trackday. Finding a cared-for example should leave you with relatively low service and maintenance costs too, and sniffing out a WRC example gets you into a genuine piece of rallying history.

As you might expect for a car built for the worst that snow, forest and gravel stages can throw at it, handling was very important to Toyota. The GT4 featured a sophisticated 'Superstrut' front suspension system which was also well ahead of its time, the car turning in eagerly with responsive steering. It bit hard, too, a permanent 50/50 torque-split all-wheel drive system meaning prodigius traction on the exit of corners.

The clever money is on a WRC version - if you can find one - which was built specifically for rally homologation and thus featured interesting add-ons: an anti-lag valve and facilities for water injection, just like the proper rally cars.

But even a 'normal' GT4 is a fantastic performer. The turbocharged third-generation 3S-GTE engine is a particular highlight, using oil-squirters under the pistons and a charge-cooler in place of an air-toair intercooler for reliability. This lump was also found in the import-onyly MR2 Turbo, but earned notoriety when used in motorsport applications, including Group C sportscar racing.

Toyota Celica

TOYOTA MR2 MKI (1984-1989) REVIEW

Combining minimalist sports car thrills with Japanese reliability, Toyota’s MR2 offers a lot of bang for your buck

Squeezing a remarkable amount of driving enjoyment from the bare minimum of component parts, the MR2 can rightly take its place in the sports car hall of fame. Toyota's engineers were certainly onto a good thing when they readied the baby coupé for its 1984 launch; a mid-engined layout, small but zippy 16-valve powerplant, razor-sharp handling and up-to-the-minute styling.

Others, such as the Fiat X1/9, had already explored this layout, but the MR2’s great strength was adding Toyota’s legendary reliability into the mix. When the first examples started to appear on British roads, they boasted a five-speed gearbox and a gusty 1.6 litres, although overseas markets also received a supercharged version. The more rounded Mk2 version took up the MR2 baton in 1989. 

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine                                    1587cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  122bhp@6600rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 105lb ft@5200rpm

Top speed                                118mph

0-60mph                                  7.7sec

Consumption                            29mpg

Gearbox                                    5-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Although better protected at the factory than many modern classics, rust can still strike with the MR2. Start your inspection checking for evidence of cabin leaks. Whether the car you’re looking at has a T-bar and removable roof panels, or simply a sunroof, water ingress from either will result in damp carpets; check the floor pans for signs of the resultant rust damage. Windscreen pillars can corrode from beneath the bonded-in windscreen.

Inspect the bottom of the rear quarter panels, particularly where they adjoin the B-post. Although most of this area is covered by plastic trim, be on the lookout for bubbling paint around the trim edges; a tell-tale of hidden corrosion. The same can be said for the plastic sill trims, fitted to all but the earliest Mk1s.  

ENGINE

Toyota’s engines are famed for their toughness and reliability, and the MR2’s powerplant is no different. UK-spec cars were fitted with a revvy 16-valve, 1587cc, four-cylinder lump. Mileages well in excess of 150,000 miles can easily be achieved, although a lack of correct maintenance won’t have done the engine any favours.

Ask the vendor how often the car has been serviced, and also ensure that the cambelt has been renewed every 60,000 miles. Failure to do so could have expensive consequences. Look out for signs of moisture in the cooling system, indicating a blown head gasket. With an alloy cylinder head, the correct level of anti-freeze must be maintained. 

RUNNING GEAR

With a tough five-speed gearbox handling the engine’s power, the transmission is as reliable as the engine. On your test drive, watch out for a heavily worn ‘box that jumps out of fifth gear under hard acceleration. Repair is possible, but it may make more sense simply to exchange the entire unit.

Warped disc brakes on early, pre-1985 cars are common, so feel for judder when braking. Later cars were fitted with beefier items at the factory, so are less susceptible. Listen out for knocking while on the move, which could be caused by tired anti-roll bar drop links, or worn-out steering rack or tie-rod end bushes. Bounce each corner of the car in turn; if the car takes time to settle, a damper could be at fault.

INTERIOR

Hard-wearing plastics give little cause for concern, while later leather items can be repaired or re-trimmed, at a price. The controls can give a clue to the car’s true mileage; do a well-worn steering wheel and pedals back up the odometer reading? 

Test the electrical functions, as non-functioning electric windows are costly to put right. Also check the operation of the central locking button.

OUR VERDICT

If ever there was a car that proved that you don’t need a colossal power output and a huge price tag to make a good driver’s car, then the MR2 is it. Absurdly low values mean that, if you choose sensibly, you can track down a driving machine that you will not only enjoy, but will last for an awfully long time. That mid-engined, rear-wheel drive, two-seater layout endows the MR2 with surprising poise, yet its light weight and diminutive size results in a modest thirst.

TRIUMPH ACCLAIM REVIEW

The Triumph acclaim was an emergency measure for British Leyland. Michael Edwardes expected to make the company viable during the 1980s, but the new models he needed were some years away. So a deal with Honda in Japan saw a modified version of that company’s Ballade saloon being made in Britain between 1981 and 1984, and badged as a Triumph.
Triumph purists snorted in disgust at this Cowley-built saviour, but this was the most reliable car BL had at the time. It had great appeal to older owners and became the second best-selling Triumph of all time (No.1 was the Herald 1200). Sports saloon it was not, but it was strangely satisfying to drive.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Bodywork
The biggest structural problem is likely to be rust in the sills and around the rear suspension mountings. Sills were integral with the body’s monoside, and so do not exist as separate panels. Replacement will involve folding one up from sheet metal. The rear suspension problem may well be terminal on cars worth so little because of the cost of repairs.
Almost every Acclaim will have a rusty front valance, which doesn’t affect its roadworthiness but always looks a mess. Look for rust in front wings around wheelarches (new front wings can still be found) and in the same place on rear wheelarches (you’ll have to cut it out and weld new metal in).
Rust can also break out under the trim strips on the bonnet and boot. If drain holes become blocked, the closing panel at the rear of the boot will succumb, too. Top-model CD iants have chrome on bumpers, which suffers like all chrome.
Remember, though, replacement panels are virtually non-existent.

Engine
The Honda engine doesn’t give much trouble. The cambelt needs to be changed every 45,000 miles, and you’d be wise to change it as soon as you buy a car. Only after 130,000-150,000 miles does oil consumption go up noticeably, but few Acclaims have done such high mileages.
Listen for a top-end clacking noise, which is evidence of a worn camshaft. The twin Keihin carburettors may cause rough running, but the cause is often no more than a blocked idler jet. A common problem seems to be failure of the vacuum advance-and-retard mechanism on the distributor, but owners have found a way round that. You simply block off the vacuum pipe and retard the ignition a little.
The radiator fan is electric and the Acclaim isn’t particularly known for overheating. Even so, you’d be wise to make sure that the fan does work.

Running gear
Once again, most of the running-gear is long-lived, with typical Japanese standards of reliability. You get a rod-operated fivespeed manual gearbox which feels quite positive or, on HLS and CD models, a Triomatic semi-automatic. Though sold as a three-speed, it was actually a twospeed with lock-up top known as O/D. Identical to the Hondamatic, it will be no stranger to your local auto trans specialist.
The Acclaim is a light car with front-wheel drive, and hard acceleration from rest can result in torque steer. It’s a characteristic rather than a defect. More worrying is clutch judder, which can have a iety of causes. A common one is failure of the top bush on the engine torque rod, and that’s easily fixed.
Not quite running-gear is a problem with the wiper shafts, which can seize. When they do, they often pull out of line sideways, cutting into the metal of the bulkhead. Making good there can be difficult. As for replacement, some owners have adapted Ford Fiesta parts to fit. 

Interior
Interiors are rather dull and plasticky, but nevertheless durable. Front carpets are likely to be the biggest issue, as they wear over time. Wet carpets should alert you to a leaky windscreen.
Most Acclaims have cloth upholstery, and that can fade if the car is kept outside in the sun. The good news is that seat covers can be removed, so a replacement set sourced from a scrap vehicle will be a viable solution. On models with the CD trim level, the upholstery is velour. It’s very 1980s but surprisingly luxurious and well worth having. CD models also have electric windows (operated from a truly horrible add-on master control panel), so it’s advisable to make sure they work properly.
While checking inside the car, examine the hardboard panels that form the boot floor. They are not very robust, and often split.

OUR VERDICT

An Acclaim can make a great starter classic, easing you into ownership of an older car for very low cost. It will be reliable enough to keep you on the road, but when things go wrong you’ll quickly learn the joys of visiting all your local scrapyards for parts.
Fellow owners will be the best guide you’ll ever have to what classic car clubs are all about.

TRIUMPH DOLOMITE REVIEW

A great sporty starter classic for surprisingly little outlay

Designed to give British buyers an alternative to sporty continental competition such as BMW’s 2002, the Dolomite replaced both the front-wheel drive 1300 and the rear-drive 1500, sticking to the latter’s layout and sharpening up the chic Michelotti styling.

Inside it offers a more comfortable twist on the compact sports saloon formula – instead of the 2002’s sturdy but dour sea of black trimmings, the Dolomite sports an airy interior brightened up by the wood door cappings and the sporty three-spoke steering wheel.

Fire it up and you’re greeted with a pleasant rasp from the exhaust, and the traditional front engine, rear-drive set up offers pleasingly neutral handling which shouldn’t get you into trouble unless you really push it.

The most sought after Dolomite of all is the 127bhp Sprint model – the first British four cylinder production car to offer sixteen valves and alloy wheels as standard to its go-faster buyers.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine                                    1998cc/4-cyl/SOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  127bhp@4650rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 111lb ft@5200rpm

Top speed                                116mph

0-60mph                                  9.1sec

Consumption                            25mpg 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

There are plenty of spots for rot to take hold on a Dolomite so double check the wings, the boot floor, the sills and the rear arches for any tell-tale signs, and be prepared to haggle accordingly, depending on what you find. The good news, however, is that replacement parts are easily available, meaning that it isn’t the end of the world if there are any panels which need replacing.

The vinyl roof is one of the visual tricks Triumph employed to give the Dolomite its sporty looks, but it can also cover up corrosion. It should be completely smooth throughout, and any bubbles or dips could indicate that rust has taken hold on the metal beneath.

ENGINE

The Dolomite’s ‘Slant Four’ unit – essentially, a four-cylinder engine with the cylinders tilted at a 15-degree angle – is tried and tested Triumph technology, and a car that’s been looked after shouldn’t give you any major problems. There are two basic variants in the Dolomite range – the standard version, available in 1300cc, 1500cc and 1850cc varieties and notably used by Saab in its 99 model, and the racier 1998cc version developed for the Sprint, which uses a 16 valve cylinder head in a bid to extract extra power. Make sure to check that there’s evidence of the engine being looked after, with, for instance, a history to show it’s been serviced regularly.

RUNNING GEAR

If your Dolomite’s been fitted with the optional overdrive system, take the car for a run and make sure it’s working correctly – problems are usually related to either the relay, the wiring or there not being enough gearbox oil. Be more worried, however, if the gearbox is crunching or jumping back into neutral, which could indicate it needs a rebuild. 

Dolomites should prove a sharp steer – if yours isn’t, chances are it’s down to perished bushes in the rack mounts, which are inexpensive to replace. It’s worth double checking both the front and rear suspension bushes for corrosion, both of which will show up in off-kilter handling but can be easily replaced by parts from a wealth of Triumph specialists. 

INTERIOR

Rot is the Dolomite’s enemy, and if corrosion’s taken hold it may well lead to damp in the interior, particularly in the driver and passenger footwells. Make sure you lift up the footwell carpets to check for any signs of leaks or corrosion, and check the trim for any signs of water ingress.

The interior trim including those fetching wood door cappings, are generally hard wearing, but it’s well worth checking inside the car carefully for any signs of scratches, tears or marks, as interior trim and parts in good condition is usually trickier to find than many of the mechanical components. Common faults include discoloured headlining caused by exposure to sunlight – replacements can take a while to track down, while the lacquer on the woodern door cappings is prone to flaking off.

OUR VERDICT

The Triumph Dolomite offers plenty of style, charm and character and is also great value, making it a superb starter classic.

Dolomite owners are also well catered for in terms of parts and there’s a wealth of knowledge available from the various Triumph clubs, meaning there’s help at hand to deal with any mechanical maladies or bodywork issues.

BENTLEY S1 REVIEW

Often overlooked, the Bentley S1 makes for perfect classic car motoring. 

The new S-type Bentley and Rolls-Royce Silver Cloud from 1955 were powered by the company's 4.9-litre smooth six-cylinder unit, the Bentley with twin SU carburrettors. Coil and wishbone independent front suspension was new, and with four-speed automatic transmission, the Bentley S1 was able to convey its occupants in an ambience of leather seats and walnut veneer to speeds approaching 100mph.

BENTLEY 3-LITRE REVIEW

Fit enough for John Steed, fast enough for the gentleman racer and utterly amazing in almost every way - this is the Bentley 3-Litre... 

W. O. Bentley proudly displayed his new 3-litre Bentley at the 1919 Olympia Motor Exhibition a four cylinder car which had first turned heads when fired up in the garage of a mews off Baker Street, London, just weeks earlier.

Deliveries did not begin until 1921, the 9 9 short chassis accounting for 194 of the 1619 built. The engine was a robust overhead camshaft unit with four valves per cylinder which proved extremely reliable, and indeed the 3-litre remained in production almost throughout the entire lifetime of the company, the last car delivered in 1929.

In mildly developed form, this was the model which was to become a legend in motor racing history and which, with its leather strapped bonnet, classical radiator and British Racing Green livery became the archetypal vintage sports car.