ALFA ROMEO 164 REVIEW

The 164 has three siblings in the form of the Fiat Croma, Saab 9000 and Lancia Thema. In truth, the development was not as shared as it might be, and the Alfa boasts the most redefined body – courtesy of Pininfarina. It was the first successful big Alfa, and with good reason. The front-wheel drive chassis was sublime, it was filled with toys that actually worked and you could feel that typical Alfa Romeo passion every time you climbed aboard.
Depreciation was tragic. The secondhand market was not convinced about the car’s abilities and that image remains. Ignore the naysayers though – this is one of the most underrated cars of all time. Engine choices are a perky twin-spark four-cylinder or the glorious V6 in different tunes – the 230bhp Cloverleaf 24v being the most potent and desirable.

VITAL STATISTICS

Alfa Romeo 164 V6 Cloverleaf 24v

Engine                                    2959cc/6-cyl/QOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  230bhp@6300rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 207lb ft@5000rpm

Top speed                                152mph

0-60mph                                   7.7sec

Consumption                             20-25mpg

Gearbox                                     5-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

A large proportion of the 164 was galvanised, so typical Italian-esque rust was virtually banished. The key rot area is the rear wheelarches – easily visible when you open the rear door. Corrosion here can spread to the sills and restoration costs can quickly add up. Underneath, check the front subframe – it can be very costly to repair. The rear crossmember can suffer too, though replacement is not tricky. The front fog lights are vulnerable to cracking, and mirror mounts lose their paint due to electrolytic reaction.

ENGINE

All engines are tough and reliable if looked after, so service history is essential if the price is high. The Twin Spark has a timing chain which can rattle, but replacement is simple. The timing belt replacement on the V6 is not so easy due to limited access and special tools needed. It needs changing every 30,000 miles. Ask when it was last done and budget on a specialist charging at least £400. The fuel injection systems are generally reliable, but make sure the engine is cold before starting it up – the vendor may be trying to mask a cold start issue if the engine feels warm. The radiator can fall apart, and check that the cooling fan cuts in. When air-con is fitted, the slow speed fan can fail. Cook one of these engines and the head gaskets are fairly certain to blow.

The manual gearbox is generally reliable, but the clutch can feel heavy. They were like that from new. The automatic transmission is by German manufacturer, ZF and generally fault-free. Watch for slipping in gear or thumping changes. Note that the auto model has a very poor turning.

RUNNING GEAR

Worn bushes and springs will create a dreadful ride and sloppy handling. Watch for a front end that seems too low and any knocking on the move. Brakes are merely adequate, and little-used examples can suffer from binding calipers. Feel the wheels after a test drive to see if one feels hotter than the others. Any juddering through the pedal suggests warped discs. 

The Cloverleaf has adaptive damping. When it fails, it defaults to Sport mode, giving an overly firm ride but still displaying ‘Normal’ on the display. It’s tricky and expensive to put right.

INTERIOR

Make sure everything works, including the electric release for the boot. The heater controls feature electrically driven cogs, which can fail. Door window motors can slow down with age and where fitted, electric seat motors can seize through lack of use. A gentle tap will probably get them working again.

OUR VERDICT

These cars are well overdue a stronger following, so offer superb value. Avoid rough old dogs, though there are few of these remaining. The Twin Spark offers relatively low running costs and a lot of fun, but it’s the spine-tingling V6 that rightly gets most attention. Even in 12v form, it’s an absolute joy with strong performance and a delicious soundtrack. It’s such a good engine and sadly, many a 164 has died as an engine donor. Buy a good 164 and you’ll have found a great way to start every petrol-head’s dream – Alfa Romeo ownership.

ALFA ROMEO GTV REVIEW

You can’t claim to be a true petrolhead until you’ve owned an Alfa Romeo, so why not make it a really good one? We show you how to avoid the pitfalls of Italian exotica on a budget...

Classic Alfa Romeo Alfetta GTV

The driving position is typically Italian, which means your legs will feel cramped, and your arms outstretched. You’ll either like this or you won’t, but do persist. Whether the sparky Twin Cam or the glorious V6, the driving experience itself needs to
be savoured. 

Performance is strong, but it’s in the corners that the GTV really attracted plaudits in its day. Nicely weighted, accurate steering and perfect weight balance mean it has a grace lacking in many rivals. A Porsche 944 gets close, but can’t match the GTV6’s intoxicating six-cylinder howl. As long as you’re sensible, the Alfa will edge towards understeer if you really get a shift on, but clumsy driving can upset the back-end in the damp. A De Dion back end ensures things don’t get skittish if the road surface is less than perfect either. It is a true driver’s car.

VITAL STATISTICS

Alfa Romeo GTV 6 2.5

Engine                                    2493cc/V6/OHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  160bhp@5800rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 157lb ft@4000rpm

Top speed                                133mph

0-60mph                                  8.2sec

Consumption                            25mpg 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Spot a GTV6 by the bonnet bulge. All UK GTV6s used fuel injection, which tends to be reliable. Timing belt changes are required ideally every four years or 36,000 miles. A good independant will charge around £300, with dealers charging much more. The V6 is very robust and will easily sail past 150,000 miles with sympathetic maintenance. The original timing belt tensioner can leak oil, but a mechanical replacement from the 155 can be used. Head gaskets can fail, but later gaskets are a better design. Check the state of the coolant. If it’s fresh but the expansion tank looks filthy, the head gasket may be suspect. The twin-cam engine is a bit more fragile and a rebuild may be needed around 100,000 miles. The top timing chain needs replacing every 50,000 miles and all engines can smoke when worn. The V6 can be easily tuned, and 3.0-litre replacements from the 75 are much sought after and shouldn’t harm the value too much.

Check for corrosion under the scuttle panel. It can get very expensive to sort properly as the dashboard, heater, wiring loom and windscreen need removing. Corrosion also strikes around the front suspension turrets, the bottom of the front wings behind the front wheels and the sills. If there is any sign of bubbling above the sill trim of a later GTV, there’s likely to be much worse beneath.

Examine the jacking points carefully, especially just below the leading corner of the front door. Inside, if there’s a bulge in the floor where your heel rests, it suggests the floor is rotten. Lift the carpets in both footwells to check for any grot or signs of damp caused by water ingress, and have a good look underneath as well. Be aware that copious amounts of underseal can be used to disguise problems, so give it a good poke with a screw driver. 

Get underneath and check around the spare wheel well – and the battery well on a GTV6. They are spot welded to the main chassis rails, so rot in either can quickly become structural. Rot can be tricky to spot and may get missed on an MoT. It’s worth checking this area very carefully as muck gets thrown up by the rear wheels.

ELECTRICS

Electrics can live up to the Alfa reputation for unreliability, though usually only because of dirty connections. Make sure everything works but note that oil gauges can be erratic. A new sender usually does the trick. If a car has been standing electric window switches can stop working.

RUNNING GEAR

A car with worn suspension will not handle well and will feel vague and clumsy. Everything is available, but once you start replacing worn bushes and get the geometry checked, it can get expensive. A lot of people upgrade the brakes, but this often requires larger, aftermarket wheels. The inboard rear calipers are prone to seizing, especially in little-used cars. Worse, they can also leak fluid, causing the pedal to need pumping to give any stopping power. Pay around £126 for a reconditioned caliper. A soft clonk from the rear when you come off the throttle is probably worn gearbox mountings. Watch for failed synchromesh – a gearbox rebuild will be in the region of £1700

INTERIOR

Interior trim can be very hard to find, and earlier cloth disintegrated in sunlight. Leather upgrades are popular and hard wearing, as are later Recaro interiors, which command a premium. Black trim can fade to a sort of greenish colour if left exposed to sunlight and the elements for any length of time.

OUR VERDICT

This really is motoring for the heart, but it’s essential that you don’t go blindly into GT or GTV ownership, or your joy could be short lived. A shiny car isn’t necessarily a sound one. Always go for bodywork ahead of mechanical woes. Fixing the running gear can be costly, but is rarely enough to write a car off in economic terms. A thorough bodywork restoration on the other hand can very easily outweigh the value of the car. Keeping a GTV on the road needn’t be a bind, though parts support is not without problems. Club support is also excellent.

ALFA ROMEO 2000 GTV REVIEW

Alfa Romeo got it spot on with the 2000 GTV, matching its jewel-like twin-cam four-cylinder to a beautiful coupé body designed for Bertone by Giorgetto Giugiaro. It was, of course, only a 2+2, but then, who wanted passengers to talk to in a car that was so involving to drive? 

These cars started with smaller-capacity engines and a GT designation, the final 2.0-litre engine being introduced in 1971 and the GTV designation having been introduced in 1965. The extra ‘V’ stood for Veloce – Alfa built 37,459 of these cars in the five years before production ended in 1976.
 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

Sadly, these cars were built in the period when the Alfa Romeo name was closely associated with rust, so you need to have a very close look at any example you’re tempted to buy. Poor repairs are perhaps the biggest problem – you can fix something when you know the extent of the rust, but when you can’t see what’s been hidden, you might be buying trouble.
Start by looking at the sills. Bodged repairs often show up as poor alignment between sills and door bottoms. Then move on to the inner wings; beware of underseal that’s been used to hide dodgy areas.
Have a good look at the front cross-member, and check the transverse members at the back of the engine bay. It’s also worth examining (and gently pressing) the metalwork under the rear screen and under the side windows. It can be tricky and expensive to repair these areas if they’ve rotted.

ENGINE

The good news is that these engines are really strong and long-lived. There’s good parts availability, too, if you do come across problems.
Both the block and head are alloy, and they like regular maintenance. Oil levels can be critical, and the sump holds more than you’d expect. Alfa always insisted that the engine should be thoroughly warmed up before driving to allow the oil to circulate. Lack of maintenance, or of general care, leads to cracked and corroded blocks.
Check for traces of oil on the block. If it’s generally dripping down from under the head, 
the problem could be worn O-rings under the camshaft bearings. If it’s only at the rear and on the exhaust side, suspect a failed head gasket, which is not uncommon on these engines. The head can be removed leaving all the valve gear left in place, which is a bonus.

RUNNING GEAR

The five-speed gearbox is a delight to use, but you should check that the synchromesh is sound on all gears. The first signs of trouble are often worn synchro on second gear. Re-builds can be expensive, so you might be better off going for a reconditioned gearbox. 
As these cars were meant to be driven vigorously, it’s no surprise that suspension problems do arise. If the back end wiggles, then the trailing-arm bushes are probably shot. If there are knocking noises at the front, it will be the bushes again. Experts recommend that all the bushes are renewed every 30,000 miles, so ask when those on "your" car were last replaced.
Ride height is critical to correct handling, and the cars should sit level or with a slight tail-down attitude. It’s also worth knowing that some aftermarket replacement rear coil springs can be too long, and when fitted,leave the car with a jacked-up back end and an oversteer problem.

Interior

Despite the general air of quality about the interiors of these cars, they do suffer quite badly from wear – especially after use by an unsympathetic owner. A badly worn interior may also be an indication that all is not going to be well elsewhere. Most cars will be showing some wear on items such as seat bolsters by now.
However, the good news is that no 2000 GTV interior needs to look scruffy for want of parts. You can get pretty much everything you need – seat covers, door cards, side trim panels, gearknobs and wood trim kits – from Alfaholics, and at very reasonable prices. Even a split dashboard top need not be a deterrent if the rest of the car is sound; you can get a good-as-new replacement.

OUR VERDICT
The real appeal of these Italian coupés lies in their combination of classic good looks and genuine driving pleasure. Admire one from the kerbside, take it out on the road, listen to the engine note rise and fall, and enjoy that slick gearchange. Alfas typically made the most of their relatively small engines, whose size was dictated by Italian tax laws, and these cars were giant-killers in their day.
You should also buy one because it’s affordable and can be maintained on a relatively modest budget. An Alfa 2000 GTV really works out as very good value indeed at today’s prices. Just don’t, whatever you do, buy a rough one!

ALFA ROMEO MONTREAL REVIEW

Anyone familiar with 1970s Italian cars will feel right at home in the cabin of an Alfa-Romeo Montreal.
 

The low seating position feels snug with a transmission tunnel that places the gearlever perfectly to hand, and the deeply-dished wood-rim steering wheel is a joy to look at and to hold. On the road the Montreal experience is dominated by the race-bred V8 and although it’s not as quick as you might expect, performance is ample and backed by a fabulous soundtrack. Some road testers of the time reckoned the handling was a touch soft, but it’s the engine that’s the star here.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

1.  Major restoration is going to be a costly exercise, so checking the condition of the bodywork is the first thing with a Montreal. Plenty have been restored, but check all the panels for corrosion, particularly around the air vents aft of the doors. They can trap water and rust can spread to the wings below, as well as on into the sills and the floor. Check the luggage area for any signs of damp too as the hatch seals can leak. Bear in mind too that replacement panels are getting scarce, so it may take a determined hunt to unearth new/old stock or secondhand parts.  

2.  Exterior trim such as chromework and plastic parts are also tricky to source, as are light units. The headlamp covers are vacuum operated, so check they are working correctly as repairs can be fiddly.

3.  Despite its racing heritage, the dry-sump V8 engine is considered pretty bullet-proof – but only with meticulous maintenance. Most problems are caused by lack of use, so regular exercise and expert fettling are the keys to longevity. Most parts are available, but a full rebuild will run into several thousand pounds so get a professional inspection if you’re not sure. The water pump is often cited as being a weak point, but it’s no more of a problem than any engine of this age.   

4.  Another regular talking point is the unusual Spica fuel injection system, but again it isn’t the problem that many would have you believe. Internal seals and the thermostatic actuators that control the fuel/air mixture according to temperature can fail but often the trouble is caused by lack of expertise. Once sorted and set-up correctly (the owners club recommends a specialist in the US) it’s a good system and there is little need to convert to carburettors as some have done.

5.  The ZF gearbox is generally robust which is just as well as overhaul or replacement is pricey. A bit of noise at idle is normal with these ‘boxes but watch for an excessively notchy gearchange that could signal more serious problems. The ZF limited-slip differential should be trouble-free as well, but any issues here or with the clutch will be costly.

6.  The 105-Series Alfas donated much of the steering, brake, and suspension hardware so there is little to worry about here, and finding parts is no problem. Lack of steering sharpness is usually caused by worn linkages, and while suspension upgrades are popular as owners seek a sportier edge to the handling, a standard set-up in
good order suits the Montreal’s relaxed nature. 
The all-round disc brakes are more than up to the job and overhauling them is a straightforward task.

7.  Specialist trimmers can restore a tired cabin, but costs will soon add up so avoid anything too neglected. Sourcing some trim parts and switches can be tricky too, so finding one that’s essentially complete is the best bet. And despite the reputation for electrical niggles that plagued many an Italian car of the period, the Montreal fares well in this respect. Check the electric windows work, as these are a known weak point. Air-conditioning was optional on early cars, standard from 1972.

OUR VERDICT

It’s hard to understand why the Montreal is so underrated. It looks terrific and the V8 is a peach. The potential for high restoration costs makes careful buying a must but there is a wealth of knowledge available. If you fancy a classic Italian coupé as glamorous as a Miura but with a far cheaper entry ticket price, we heartily recommend the Montreal.

ALFA ROMEO 105-SERIES GIULIA REVIEW

The thought of a British car maker producing a twin-cam sporting saloon in the early 60s, with all-round disc brakes, independent suspension up front and a five-speed gearbox would have been laughable. 

They may have wanted to do it, but Britain’s conservative automotive industry would never have produced such a thing. Not Alfa Romeo though, which needed to come up with something radical to dig itself out of a financial black hole.

That car was the Giulia 105-Series, offered in saloon and coupé forms, and launched in June
1962 to widespread critical acclaim. The 1570cc four-pot provided superb performance too, with 103mph on offer at a time when most family saloons ran out of puff at 90. It was partly down to the superb aerodynamics – with a CD of just 0.34, the car is astonishingly refined at high speed. From 1964, the Giulia could be had with the 1290cc Giulietta engine. Spot one by its single headlamps. They’re still nippy motors as even the small engine still boasts twin overhead camshafts and up to 82bhp. 

While the Giulia coupés have long been sought after, increasing values are pushing them out of reach. The saloon may be more of a challenge aesthetically, but with such a great driving experience on offer, it’s no wonder that prices of these more practical classics are now on the up – which is why you need to buy sooner rather than later.
 

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine 1570cc/4-cyl/DOHC
Power 92bhp @ 600rpm
Torque 108lb ft @ 3700rpm
Top Speed 107mph
0-60mph 13sec
Economy 26mpg
Gearbox 5-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

This is the Achilles’ heel of the Giulia. Unsurprisingly, replacement panels are all but extinct, with nothing even being reproduced. The whole bodyshell is potentially one large weak spot, but focus on the bottom six inches of the car most closely – the sills, inner wings and front crossmember all need particular attention. Because of the scarcity of fresh panels, you also need to be on the lookout for bodged repairs all over. 
A and B-posts rot, while the boot floor (including the spare wheel well) is likely to have been patched by now. The floorpans, bulkhead and wheelarches are all likely to have seen better days, so be on the lookout for filler that’s been liberally applied.
Exterior brightwork can also be a headache. You’ll struggle to find replacement bits on a used basis, with anything new having disappeared years ago.

ENGINE

Various twin-cam fours were fitted to the Giulia – there were 1300, 1600, 1750 and 2000 options. All are tough, but noisy tappets and timing chains are common. Head gasket failure is the most likely malady, so look for oil trickling down either side of the block along with signs of the coolant and lubricant mixing, given away by white emulsion on the underside of the oil filler cap.

TRANSMISSION

All Giulias came with a five-speed manual gearbox, which is reasonably tough, but second-gear synchro can prove weak if the gearchange has been rushed before the ‘box has properly warmed up. 
Another weak spot is the gear selector fork, which bends, leading to jumping out of gear when reverse is selected. Damage can be caused after just 50,000 miles. Rebuilt ‘boxes cost around £600.

SUSPENSION & BRAKES

Worn suspension components can all be replaced – hard-driven cars are likely to need an overhaul. Rear-wheel steering is common, from tired trailing arm bushes, while knocks from the front betray worn bushes. They’re all easily renewed though.
The biggest braking problems come from cars that haven’t been used for years, with seized cylinders, calipers and servos being potentially costly to revive or replace. The servos of later cars can fail, and when they do there’ll be clouds of white smoke from the exhaust, which is the brake fluid being drawn into the engine and burned.

INTERIOR & ELECTRICS

The original interior trim was reasonably tough, but by now it’ll have seen better days. Luckily most items are being reproduced and are not particularly expensive, although it’s the usual story – if it all needs replacing, the costs will add up. A new headlining is £112, a full set of seat covers is £250+, while a carpet set is £135 or more. Even the boot carpet sets are available for £85.
The electrics are more reliable than Alfa’s reputation might have you believe. The most common issues centre on the fuel tank earthing poorly, leading to erratic fuel gauge readings, as well as the column stalks not working properly – although these
can be rebuilt by specialists.

VERDICT

With great club and specialist support, a driving experience to savour and steadily rising values, the Giulia makes sense on so many levels. However, while mechanical parts availability is very good, the same isn’t true when it comes to replacement panels. You also need to garage your Giulia, or at least keep it under cover, if it isn’t to rapidly deteriorate. But if you look after it, you’ll be rewarded with a dream drive every trip plus the pleasure of owning a steadily appreciating classic. But be warned: unless you can find a good one, you’ll be bankrupted.

ALFA ROMEO 156 GTA REVIEW

Charismatic and hair-raisingly quick, the 156 GTA offers plenty of performance for the money. Here's what to look for if you're looking to buy..

The 156’s curvaceous lines, appetite for a good corner and the weight of expectation brought by wearing an Alfa Romeo badge meant it was only a matter of time before press-on drivers were treated to a proper sporting derivative.

Launched at the Frankfurt Motor Show in 2001 and introduced here in May 2002, the GTA dropped the manufacturer’s sonorous 3.2-litre V6 behind the 156’s V-shaped grille, deploying 247bhp to the front wheels. Developed alongside the smaller 147 GTA – with which it shared its engine – the 156 GTA represents value for money, considering they weighed in at a hefty £27k when they were new.

It may have had a wider track, lower ride height and revised steering geometry than the rest of the range, but it’s still a driver’s car dominated by the nose-heavy – but wonderfully melodic – powerplant.

Sadly, its production stint was short-lived – both it and the 147 GTA were canned in 2005 when the 3.2-litre V6 was unable to meet emissions regulations.

VITAL STATISTICS

ENGINE                      3179cc/V6/DOHC

POWER                       247bhp@6200rpm

TORQUE                     221lb ft@4800rpm

MAXIMUM SPEED        155mph

0-60MPH                    6.3sec

FUEL CONSUMPTION  23-30mpg

TRANSMISSION         FWD, 6-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Check the water pump

The V6’s coolant is circulated by a plastic impellor, which is known to split and then fail altogether with age. Replacing it is a tricky – and expensive – job that requires removing the cambelt, tensioner and idler pulleys, so check through the history to see if a previous owner has replaced it. Switching the GTA’s plastic part with the metal one from the GTV is a common swap.

Has the cambelt been changed?

It’s recommended the belt is checked at 36,000 miles and replaced completely at 72,000 miles, but as it’s not an easy part to access some owners hold out for longer. It’s a similar story with oil filters – it’s awkward but not impossible to get at, but make sure previous owners haven’t neglected changing it.

Try that clutch

Clutches tend to last at least 70,000 miles, but replacing them is a fiddly job that involves taking out the front suspension and subframe to get access. A car that’s had the work done is a plus, but if you can’t find proof then check for a heavy pedal feel or a biting point that’s very high up. A worn clutch slave cylinder will also manifest itself through pedal feel, but it’s a cheaper and easier fix.

Is it a track day car?

The GTA’s rampant performance and affordability mean there are plenty that have been thrashed at track days. On cars made before November 2003 – which are fitted with 305mm front brake discs – brake juddering will often indicate whether the car’s had a hard life. It’s also worth listening for creaks or knocks from the front suspension, which is usually a anti-roll bar sliding around due to worn bushes.

Has the bonnet been fixed?

Both the 156 and its 147 sibling were issued with safety recalls due to failing bonnet catches, which can cause the bonnet to fly open at speed. Check the car’s history to see whether a dealer’s looked at your car in the past – early ones had a plastic catch, and while the later metal items are better it didn’t completely eradicate the problem, so make sure the bonnet closes properly and that it’s been greased regularly. In very rare incidents, the roof may have been damaged as a result of an errant bonnet – check for signs of rust around the top of the windscreen.

OUR VERDICT

Unlike its primarily German opposition – and mass-market rivals like Ford’s Mondeo ST220 and Vauxhall’s Vectra GSI – the 156 GTA majors on charisma. You’d never tire of listening to the noise the 3.2-litre V6 makes or the trouble Alfa goes to with the visual details, like the chromed inlet manifolds, the 17-inch teledial alloy wheels and the individual dashboard pods for the instruments.

It’s a charismatic sports saloon that rewards a fastidious owner – there is no point in skimping crucial servicing because some of the parts are tricky to reach. It’s also in the price doldrums at the moment, so now’s the time to buy one before prices start going up.

Alfa%20Romeo 156

ALFA ROMEO 156 REVIEW

As beautiful as its 155 predecessor was plain, the 156 marked a turning point in Alfa Romeo’s fortunes. We consider how best to buy one of these appreciating new-wave classics...

Alfa Romeo began something of a renaissance in 1997. After years in the doldrums with the likes of the Six, 75, 33 and the awful Arna, the company positively blew the car industry’s collective socks off when it whipped the covers off the new 156.

As visually arresting inside as it was out, the car went on to achieve worldwide sales in excess of 680,000. More importantly, it re-established Alfa Romeo as a brand to be trusted. Its 159 successor may have looked more imposing, but it lost the earlier car’s delicacy. 

VITAL STATISTICS

ALFA ROMEO 156 2.0 TWIN SPARK

Engine                                    1970cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  155bhp@6400rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 138lb ft@3500rpm

Top speed                                129mph

0-60mph                                   8.3sec

Consumption                           36mpg

Gearbox                                    5-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Walk away from any 156 that displays even minute evidence of body rot, as all models were galvanised at the factory. Crusty 156s, therefore, have almost certainly sustained heavy accident damage at some point and then been poorly repaired using cheap pattern parts.

It’s worth looking underneath, too. Veloce models, in particular, have slightly lowered suspension which brings the underside into sharp contact with the road on even moderate dips
– make sure yours isn’t scuffed and dented.

Finally, those stunning lines are thanks in no small part to gently curved doors that are completely bereft of protective strips, meaning car-park dents are commonplace. Don’t expect miracles, but repeatedly nerfed doors will prove costly to repair.

ENGINE

Alfa Romeo offered buyers a wide variety of engines, ranging from a 1.6-litre Twin Spark, all the way up to the glorious V6 petrol. None is be particularly troublesome if they’re serviced and maintained properly, although Twin Sparks do appear to use a little more oil than is usual.

Check the car’s history for evidence of cambelt changes. Initially, the factory recommended that this be done every 72,000 miles, but this was later revised down to every 36,000 miles. Like many other cars from the period, this job inevitably disturbs the water pump, so it’s advisable to have it changed for a stronger one with a metal impeller at the same time.

In terms of performance, the V6 is the one to have if money is no object. But the pick of the range is definitely the powerful and sonorous 2.0-litre Twin Spark. Of the lesser engined cars, the 1.6-litre is
much nicer to drive than the slightly strangled-feeling (and sounding) 1.8-litre.

RUNNING GEAR

The trick with buying an early 156 is to keep it simple. Manual gearboxes and clutches, while hardly bulletproof, are nevertheless impressively strong, with sympathetically-driven cars routinely managing 100,000 miles between clutch changes. Front-wheel drive chassis are similarly not prone to catastrophic failure, although the heavy-engined V6 can feel nose-heavy and understeery.

Super-cheap 2.0-litre 156s are almost always Selespeeds, whose sequential paddle-shift gearboxes were endlessly problematic when new and are prohibitively expensive to repair now. It’s a similar story with the rather less common Q System auto offered as an option on the V6, and while the super-rare Q4 four-wheel drives don’t have quite the same reputation, repair costs are pretty much guaranteed
to be very high if something goes wrong.

INTERIOR

The 156 may have been built to a much higher standard than previous models, but they’re as prone to trim and electrical gremlins as any Italian car. To be fair, these are usually minor irritants rather than full-blown disasters, so don’t be too surprised to find that poor radio reception on very early cars improves markedly if the heated rear screen is switched on, the fusebox cover to the right of the steering wheel routinely drops open or the vent panel on top of the dashboard rattles when it’s cold. The air conditioning system often produces a less than icy blast even on its coldest setting, too. More seriously, it’s imperative that the warning lights on the dashboard go out shortly after start-up – stubbornly glowing engine management, airbag or ABS warning lights can signify big bills looming under the bonnet.

OUR VERDICT

Body and mechanical condition is key to early 156s – find a good 1.6, 2.0 or V6 manual in a desirable colour(ideally on teledial alloy wheels), and you’ll bag a stylish and reliable youngtimer with strong performance and handling. Honest cars should be resistant to rust, and owner’s club and parts specialist backing is strong.

AEC ROUTEMASTER REVIEW

Would you like your own bus, mainly an AEC Routemaster? Why just go for an ordinary classic when with just a little bit of stupidity you can have a huge vehicle that truly deserves the much hackneyed term ‘British icon’?

 AEC Routemaster buses left normal passenger service in 2005 and are now seen across the world as much admired symbols of Britain.

The first Routemaster, RM1, was built in 1954, followed by three other prototypes, though the type didn’t enter service en masse until 1959, when London Transport had embarked on a trolleybus replacement programme.

A highly-talented team designed the AEC Routemaster along aircraft lines, with a rot-free, light alloy body that was built in sections. The bus was consciously designed down to the last detail, from a cubby hole below the staircase for the conductor to snuggle into when the bus was full to thin yellow stripes on the seat moquette to make it look less faded.
It may have looked like a traditional bus, but the Routemaster came with power steering, automatic transmission heaters and coil springs all round – features not seen in most cars during the 1950s.

London Transport took 2760 open rear platform Routemasters between 1954 and 1967. Bus versions were in 27ft 5in long RM form and 30ft RML specification, seating 64 and 72 people respectively. The RML is instantly recognisable from the side due to the additional small centre window.

Delivered in smaller numbers for Green Line coach routes were 68 members of the RMC class, deliveries beginning in 1962, and in 1965 the longer RCL iants. Both boasted air suspension rather than coil springs, platform doors, neon lights, and sloping twin headlamps. One Routemaster, registered 254 CLT, was built with a front entrance and demonstrated to provincial operators but sold soon afterwards to Northern General, which bought 50 similar buses new. British European Airways also took 50 front entrance Routemasters.

The RML fleet survived almost intact in London service into the 21st century, though almost all were considerably refurbished in the Nineties, with new engines, seat moquette, electrics and interior lighting.

Many shorter Routemasters received some or all of this treatment. In 2001 the most extensive refurbishment of all began when some 40 short length Routemasters, many bought back from service elsewhere and preservation, were extensively rebuilt by Marshall of Cambridge.

This included new Cummins engines and Allison gearboxes, the same spec as modern Dennis Dart single deckers, earning them the nickname ‘Dartmasters’. The work, which also included new windows, cost some £40-50,000 per bus.
 

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine 9.6 litre AEC AV590 or 9.8 litre Leyland 0.680
Power 115bhp@1800rpm
Torque 430lb ft@1000rpm
Top speed 45mph
0-60mph Not today thanks
Fuel consumption 10-12mpg
Gearbox 4-speed semi or fully automatic
Suspension Coil springs, Panhard rod
Height 14ft 4.5in
Width 8ft 0in

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

Corrosion of the alloy body is virtually unknown, apart from the strengthening on the underneath. The A and B frames which support the engine and suspension can corrode or crack, but are repairable. The crossmember on which the Panhard rod is mounted can also corrode. Aluminium body panels are easy to replace.

ENGINES

Routemasters were delivered new with the extremely well proven 9.6-litre AEC or 9.8-litre Leyland engines; the RCL and RMA had 11.3-litre AEC units.
AEC engines can clock up enormous mileages, but spares such as pistons are getting difficult to get, though we’ve heard of Caterpillar components being adapted. Wet liner AEC units in particular benefit from regular coolant replacement.
Several makes of replacement engine were adapted during overhaul, the vast majority being the Cummins C-series, which proved reliable in London service and have good spares availability. Other buses had Iveco or Scania power units. Start up smoke should disappear after a while. Excessive smoke and or lack of power may be down to worn or cracked injectors rather than wear. An out of adjustment fuel pump or timing could be another problem.

TRANSMISSION

All Routemasters were fitted with an AEC gearbox when new, which proved to be a wonderfully long-lived unit, lasting until the end of normal Routemaster use. It can be operated in fully
or semi-automatic form. Firms such as Imperial Engineering should be able to help with parts and overhaul. Slipping gears can be caused by a lack of oil, or faulty piston seals. The air compressor activating the ‘box can leak oil and the EP valve, which lets air into the unit, may stick. ‘Dartmaster’ Routemaster rebuilds used a current Allison unit, for which spares are no problem.
Differentials can become fragile with excessive mileages and universal joints can wear.

SUSPENSION & BRAKES

Routemasters had coil springs all round, which can crack but replacements are available, as is the case with the airbags used in coach versions.  Shock absorbers are long lasting.
The brakes, a power hydraulic system, are a relatively complex part of the bus. They operate via a pump and two accumulators. The accumulators need recharging with compressed air regularly, which normally means a trip to a specialist and a £50 bill, though some now use nitrogen. Brake shoes can seize on buses left standing.

INTERIOR & ELECTRICS

The vast majority of surviving Routemasters have had some interior refurbishment, whether the original seat moquette being changed or an extensive refit. Firms like the BusWorks at Blackpool will quote for a retrim. Only coach versions were fitted with neon lighting from new, but refurbished Routemasters have had their tungsten bulbs converted to neon, better heating and changes to the electrical system. The buses originally had ious microswitches which can suffer, particularly if the bus is left standing.

VERDICT

Storage is obviously a problem, but The British Bus Preservation Group does its best to help via its national storage scheme.

Maintenance-wise, there are some fantastic specialists out there and a lot of other helpful owners.

You can expect around 10mpg from a Routemaster, insurance should be around the same as you’d pay on a classic car and yes, you benefit from free road tax. Components are extremely long-lasting and a bus that’s battled through London streets for 50 years should be more than capable, if not neglected, of running you and your entire collection of friends to rallies, events and the pub for many years to come.

Volkswagen campervan

AC COBRA REVIEW

What can we tell you about the AC Cobra that you don't already know? It's faster to 60mph than a politician claiming their expenses, smoother than an Oliver Reed pick-up line and cooler than a frozen Roger Moore. Want one? No wonder... 

Carroll Shelby, the Texan racing driver, came up with an unlikely alliance beween AC Cars and the Ford Motor Company, the AC Ace providing the simple twin-tube chassis frame - supplied with four-wheel disc brakes for the Southern Roadcraft Cobra, into which Ford inserted their small-block V8. Production ran to just 1,029 cars between 1962 and 1968, starting again in 1980 with the MkIV when Autokraft acquired the AC brand. 

AC ACE REVIEW

The AC Ace not only set the path for the iconic AC Cobra to follow, but proved us Brits still ruled the automotive wave with prowess. 

AC's long-lived 1991cc ohc 6-cylinder engine, designed by John Weller and launched in 1922, powered the first British car to win the 'Monte Carlo' in 1926, and powered AC's models through to the 1960s AC Ace and Aceca. Concentrating on sporting cars aimed at the discerning enthusiast after the Hurlock brothers bought AC in 1930, the chassis became underslung with cross bracing in 1934, gaining a synchromesh gearbox in 1935 although pre-select was optional from 1934. Less than 600 post-1933 standard 16hp cars are thought to have been built, production ceasing in 1939.
 

AC 3000 REVIEW

The AC 3000 offers mid-engined V6 glory with a rarity factor to punt any Lamborghini into everyday classic status. Should you find a good one, you won't regret ownership. 

The AC 3000 ME mid-engined coupe appeared after a lengthy gestation in 1979, powered by Ford's 3.0-litre 'Essex' V6 from the Ford Capri and Granada. Mounted transversely amidships, transmission was via AC's own five-speed synchromesh gearbox, which sometimes proved troublesome in service. Eighty-two 125mph 138bhp two-seater cars were constructed at AC's Thames Ditton works, with manufacture transfered to AC (Scotland) Limited in 1984 – another 30 cars ended up being produced, out of a run of around 100.

AC 428 REVIEW

The AC 428 makes for rare, iconic and glorious motoring. If you can find one we would heartily recommend it. 

Italian styling combined with massive American V8 horsepower was well established by the late 1960s, no doubt influencing AC Cars' decision to re-configure its fire-breathing Cobra sports car as a luxury GT. A Cobra MkIII coil-suspended chassis was extended by 6'' in the wheelbase and dispatched to Italy to be clothed in elegant coachwork by Pietro Frua, the result looking not unlike the Maserati Mistral from the same studio. A two-seater convertible was completed for the 1965 London Motor Show, while the 1966 Geneva Show saw the launch of the Fastback coupe. The 7-litre Ford engine produced 345bhp - all the performance customers desired - this stupendous engine propelling this 140+mph car to 60 in less than 6-seconds, and 100mph in a staggering 14.5 seconds. Hindered by the 428's similarly staggering price, more than the contemporary Aston Martin DB6, production never attained Cobra levels, just 51 coupes and 29 convertibles between 1966 and 1973.

AUSTIN MINI COOPER REVIEW

The Austin Mini Cooper is, without doubt, the car that defined the 1960s'. We don't have to tell you why you want one, but if you need to persuade your partner CCFS are here to help...

They say you should never meet your heroes, and certainly the Austin Mini Cooper – or any Mini, for that matter – tends to make a less-than perfect first impression to anyone unfamiliar with the hugely popular marque.

Design and engineering genius, Alec Issigonis, may have succeeded in coming up with a car that could seat four adults despite measuring just over 10ft, stem to stern, but the result is a driving position that, to put it politely, is rather bus-like.

That said, there’s an undoubted charm to the Cooper’s trademark spartan cabin. The glasshouse is pleasingly deep and the curved dashboard, complete with its trio of clear dials, adds to the feeling of spaciousness up front. The seats are genuinely comfortable, too, and the simple, rubber-gaited gear lever falls naturally to your hand.
Twist the key in the dinky little ignition slot beneath the enormous speedometer, and the 55bhp 998cc engine coughs briskly into life.

An all-synchromesh gearbox was only introduced in September 1968, so a rudimentary grasp of the art of double-declutching is required to avoid crunched changes into first on earlier cars, but such is the revvy nature of the 55bhp engine that this is hardly a chore.

The transmission whine in first gear is unmistakable, and the shifter snicks smoothly from gear to gear.

You can’t help but grin at the purposeful snuffles from the twin SU carbs and the jaunty manner in which the Hydrolastic suspension (which replaced the earlier cars’ all-independent rubber cones in late 1964) bounces over uneven road surfaces. It feels mighty perky, too indeed, it can hit 60mph from rest in less than 17 seconds and maxes out at a (presumably rather noisy) 90mph.

Outright performance isn’t what the Cooper is all about though people adore these cars for their other-wordly handling. Coopers have been compared, rather unimaginatively, to go-karts ad nauseum, but there really is no better epithet. Throw it into a corner, and there’s precious little body roll, allied to a touch of early-warning understeer, but it always feels very much like it was born to drift.
It changes direction like a fly, the steering and suspension not so much communicating with you, as bellowing through a bullhorn. You might not be terribly comfy behind the wheel, but by God, you’re having fun.
For once, here is a car whose oft-repeated reputation certainly doesn’t flatter to deceive.

History
The Mini was never all that powerful (exactly how Issigonis wanted to keep it), so it fell to sheer serendipity for the giant-killing Montewinner to emerge from the shadows.
John Cooper was already a master of Grand Prix and Formula Junior racing, and following a long drive of a standard car, he approached BMC’s Managing Director, George Harriman, with a do-or-die deal sanction the build run of 1000 Cooper-modified cars (to homologate them for entry into Group 2 racing), and he’d do the hard work of modifying the cars in return for a small royalty and the privilege of having his name on each completed car.

The rest, as they say, is history. A 997cc engine was employed for the ‘new’ car, complete with twin semi-downdraught 1.25in SU carburetors, a re-profiled camshaft and a higher compression ratio.
The results were startling power was up from the standard car’s 34bhp to a whopping 55bhp, and with stopping power to match, all wrapped up in a car whose handling was already legendary, a true world icon was born, almost overnight.
Modifications were soon announced, however the 997cc engine was replaced by a slightly torquier 998cc mill in 1964, and shortly thereafter the original rubber cone suspension was binned in favour of the now-legendary Hydrolastic system. Around this time, too, radial tyres were made standard in place of the old crossplies.
The story didn’t end there, however. A more potent Cooper ‘S’ was introduced in the same year as the ‘standard’ Cooper, sporting a 1071cc engine that upped power to a dizzying 70bhp and brought with it bigger-still servoassisted disc brakes and a top speed of 95mph; zero to 60mph was achieved in 13 seconds.
The prize for the greatest number of Cooper S models built, however, goes to the car that would take Cooper production all the way through to 1971. Capacity was boosted to 1275cc, power spiked at 76bhp. The results spoke for themselves indeed, had it not been for an outrageously blatant show of partisanship on the part of the French judges during the 1966 event, the Cooper would have blitzed the Monte Carlo rally throughout the 1960s. Pat Moss secured the ladies award in the 1962 event, paving the way for outright wins for Paddy Hopkirk (1964), Timo Mäkinen (1965) and Rauno Aaltonen (1967).

Mini-Cooper Trivia

• The 1963-1969 Austin Mini-Cooper was the greatest seller, shifting over 76,000 examples. The original model sold around 25,000 cars in three years, with the short-lived 1963-1964 Cooper S finding just over 4000 owners. The 1964-1965 970cc Cooper S is the rarest, with fewer than 1000 units sold. The later Cooper S shifted over 40,400 units.
• The Cooper S engine is most readily identified by an extra stud and bolt at each end of the cylinder head.
• If your Cooper sports a curious-looking box beneath the centre of the dashboard, then it has a super-rare early recirculating type heater.
• The trademark little tail-light units (left) were finally replaced by much larger duo-tone lights with the introduction of the MkII Cooper, although the bumper overriders were retained.
• The Cooper was a big seller overseas, too international models included the Italian Innocenti and Spanish Authi, although complete knock-down kits were exported as far afield as Chile, Rhodesia, South Africa and Australia.
   

AUSTIN PRINCESS REVIEW

This classic Austin Princess 'wedge' hasn’t had the best image, but should you ignore the naysayers and buy one?

There are plenty of people that will turn their nose up when the Austin Princess is mentioned, and they might even resort to jokes about 1970s sitcom characters, but that would be to do this underrated slice of wedgery a disservice.  In fact, give one a try and you’ll soon discover why they have such a dedicated following, not least because of the spacious and airy cabin that makes it such a useful daily driver.  Passengers are exceptionally well catered for with plenty of head and elbow room, and the seats are comfortable too, so long-distance journeys are no bother.  And if it wasn’t for the fact that Austin chose to equip the sharply-styled model with a bootlid with a rather shallow opening, rather than a hatchback – an issue corrected with the follow-up Ambassador – the Princess would have scored maximum points for practicality as well.  As it is, if you opt for one with the wood-trimmed interior there’s an extra helping of luxury that certainly makes it feel a cut above contemporary offerings when it comes to interior ambience. 

But what’s it like on the road?  Well, pretty good actually especially when fitted with the smooth, six-cylinder E-Series engine  - combined with the 3-speed automatic transmission it makes for particularly relaxing progress, although it’s not great for economy where you’ll struggle to achieve mid-20s mpg.  The four-cylinder units are better in this respect, and are still quite sprightly with the 95bhp, 2.0-litre model capable of 60mph in a respectable 13 seconds or so.  The only downside is the manual transmission which was never especially slick and can suffer from an obstructive first gear making progress in traffic a bit of a pain. They all stop well though, thanks to powerful four-piston brake calipers on the front and only the non-assisted steering can let the down side, proving overly heavy when parking.  Power steering is definitely worth having.  But what all Princess models offer is a great ride thanks to the use of Hydragas suspension, and while sharp ruts can intrude, there’s little body roll to contend with. 

VITAL STATISTICS

Austin Princess 2000

Engine           1994cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power            95bhp@4900rpm

Torque          113lb ft@3400

Top speed    101mph

0-60mph        13.1secs

Economy      30mpg

Gearbox        4-speed manual 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

It’ll come as no surprise that corrosion can attack the Princess with some enthusiasm, and there are various spots to examine.  Start by examining the valance behind the front number plate, and the bottom of the wings, and ensure the A-pillars are free of bubbling.  The rear of the sills where they meet the wheel-arches also need checking along with the door bottoms – the rear doors seem worse affected for some reason – and check the extremities of the boot lid, particularly the reverse of the lower edge.  Bear in mind that all panels are rare, especially doors, boot lids, and front wings which almost impossible to find, so grab good ones while you can.

The floorpan doesn’t seem to suffer from serious rust but is worth checking just in case, particularly around the front foot-wells as a leaking screen can soak the carpets.  Indeed, the windscreen is another rare part along with the rubbers so check the condition of the glass carefully.  A vinyl roof could be hiding rot so watch for tell-tale bubbling beneath, and check the condition of exterior trim and fittings as both these and chromework are getting increasingly hard to source. 

ENGINE

Depending on age and model the Princess was fitted ‘B’, ‘E’, or O-Series engines and there’s a decent parts supply.  A re-build is a DIY task too, but it pays to watch for the usual signs of neglect including excessive oil leakage from perished gaskets, exhaust smoke, and signs of overheating.  Rattling valvegear is easy to sort but remember that 0-Series units require regular cambelt replacement, so check when this was last done.  Poor running will likely be ignition or fuel systems past their best, but they aren’t costly or difficult to overhaul.  Most will run on unleaded without problem too, but it’s an added bonus if the cylinder head has already been converted.

GEARBOX

It’s common to find a manual gearbox suffering from an obstructive first gear, and if it’s particularly troublesome it could be the clutch master or slave cylinder on its way out, and again parts can be scarce.  A slight whine from the ‘box is normal too but it shouldn’t be excessive.  The 3-speed automatic was a Borg Warner 35 unit, and a popular choice instead of the notchy manual, and while never silky smooth it pays to check that gear changes aren’t too lumpy, and that the fluid doesn’t look like tar.

BRAKES

The brakes should be trouble-free, although it’s worth checking the pipework for corrosion.  Leaking rear wheel cylinders are cheap and easy to replace, and new front calipers are available or they can be overhauled with a repair kit.  The manual steering shouldn’t give much bother, although it was heavy, and seizing balljoints will make this worse.  Many preferred the power-assisted option but it’s prone to leaks so check around the pipe unions, pump, and the steering rack itself.  Alloy wheels were fitted to some variants, and you’ll struggle to find replacements – budget around £70 per wheel for refurbishment if they’re not too far gone.

SUSPENSION

The Hydragas suspension system isn’t fundamentally troublesome but the pipework will need checking and it’s very hard to source replacement displacer units.  Check the ride height carefully, and while a re-gas may be all that’s required don’t assume that’s the case whatever the vendor might say.  It’ll be pointless if the displacer diaphragm has failed, but the clubs can usually advise on the best way to find a replacement.

INTERIOR

Once again it’s the rarity of parts that affects the cabin, with door panels and seats especially scarce.  Check condition carefully then, looking for damaged trim and sagging seat bases and headlining.  Watch for cracks in the dashboard plastics or wood veneer, and lift the front carpets if possible as perished screen rubbers leads to water ingress.  Lastly, age may have taken its toll on wiring and connectors so ensure all the electrics function correctly. 

OUR VERDICT

With low prices and distinctive styling the Princess is an attractive proposition, while the spacious and comfortable cabin is a further plus.  But corrosion and the scarcity of many parts means a modicum of caution is needed.  We’d certainly be tempted by this useable British classic, and buying one now means you’ll get to enjoy the 40thbirthday celebrations.