Like its predecessor, the C-Type, the D-type was essentially a factory-built race car, with many sold to privateer racers and road users. Production included 53 customer D-types, 18 factory team cars, and 16 XKSS models.
JAGUAR E-TYPE V-12 SERIES III REVIEW
Dropping a V12 engine into the E-type helped it evolve from a pure sports car into a grand tourer. Here's how to ensure you buy a good one...
If you ask enthusiasts to pick their favourite breed of Jaguar E-type, chances are the Series 3 wouldn't be chosen by many. The E-type was very much a child of the 1960s, but the sleek and stylish star developed middle age spread for the Series 3, 10 years after its debut. Wheelarches flared, extra chrome was added, the almost delicate-looking front grille was enlarged to feature egg-crate slats, disc wheels replaced wires and only longer wheelbase 2+2 roadsters and coupes were available. The purity of the original was replaced by a fussiness that hinted at Jaguar doing all the nips and tucks it could to try to keep the car going until a successor could be found.
However, there was a big bonus with the S3 that you didn't get with any of its predecessors. And that was what was under its long, tapering bonnet. Jaguar had developed a rather glorious 5.3-litre V12 engine intended for the XJ12. But fitting it in the E-type first was a handy way of proving its reliability. With 272bhp on tap, it was a wonderful way of guiding the E-type through its twilight years. And although the V12-powered machines lacked the frantic charisma of the earlier six-cylinder cars, they now had a sophisticated refinement instead that made them excellent GT cruisers. Maybe an earlier E-type could run rings around them in a shorter cross-country blast, but when it came to charging across entire countries on motorways, an S3 was by far the superior choice.
The V12 model stayed in production for just three- and-a-half years until supplanted by the XJ-S. During that time, 14,983 examples were built, with most of the cars going to the United States. It was bedevilled by increasing legislation and a fuel crisis that suddenly made cars unable to haul their fuel consumption out of the teens very unattractive. The final 50 made were finished in black and sported a special numbered dashboard plaque bearing the signature of Sir William Lyons. By then, he'd retired as well... truly the end of two great Jaguar eras.
VITAL STATISTICS
JAGUAR E-TYPE SERIES 3
Engine 5343cc/V12/SOHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 272bhp@5850rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 304lb ft@3600rpm
Top speed 146mp
0-60mph 6.4sec
Consumption 15mpg
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
It costs a lot to restore an E-type, so sometimes jobs can be skimped on or skipped completely. Thus checking everything is vital. As a barometer, look behind the fuel filler flap. If it's grotty on a car that has supposedly been sorted, then other areas may be dodgy too.
Check panel gaps all around - especially where the bonnet meets the bulkhead, the trickiest spot to align. Areas to check for corrosion include the bootlids on roadsters and the door bottoms on all types, due to blocked drainholes. Check in all the boot for collected water. The tubular frame in front of the bulkhead that supports the engine also rusts or cracks and is a mega job to rectify. Bonnet noses, sills, the rear wing edges and below the back bumper are also vulnerable. Underneath, examine the three strengthening ribs.
Look for pitting of Mazak items such as door handles. And thoroughly check the hood of a convertible for marks, splits and easy operation.
ENGINE
The V12 is a tough old thing and probably much less stressed now than when E-types were more enthusiastically driven. Look and listen for overheating and harshness; the block and heads may have been warped. Make sure the thermostatic cooling fan cuts in as it should. On the oil pressure gauge, check for 0lb or higher at 3500rpm. Oil leaks are quite common - if it's from the rear chrankshaft seal though, it's a very pricey job to put right.
A rattle from the front of the engine is likely to be a worn timing chain, especially if is happens when revving or the overrun. this can strike cars after every 35,000 miles or so.
Check all the hoses under the bonnet - there are a mind boggling 20 of them. And while you're at it, also look at the fuel lines, which go brittle as a result of heat. Carburettors can be difficult to tune properly, especially if their diaphragms have perished.
RUNNING GEAR
There's no greater sign that the S3 had metamorphosed into a GT than in the fact that most V12 E-types were fitted with an automatic Borg-Warner Model 12 three-speed automatic transmission. It's pretty tough but look out for jerkiness or slipping, pointing to a service or even a full overhaul being needed. The manual cars can be affected by weak synchromesh on second and third and be concerned if you have real difficulty selecting gears when the gearbox is cold.
On all types, be wary of vibrations, clonks and whining from the differentials and driveshaft during your test drive.
BRAKES
The steering - which is rack and pinion - should feel sharp. Significant play points to worn column universal joints. On the rear suspension, the lower hub pivots have to be greased. If it's been missed you may hear creaking - which means they're corroded and potentially on the way to seizing. If you can jack the car up, check for play at the wheels. The rear ones should have some - if not, then it suggests the bearings have been over-tightened and will wear out soon. There should be less play with the front wheels though. If there's quite a bit, it signals worn bearings or lower wishbone balljoints.
A car where it feels like the back wheels are also steering probbly has worn or broken axle cage mountings. Steel wheels were standard, but wire wheels may have been fitted. Check them for damaged spokes and worn splines.
Brakes can be affected by any leaking oil from the differential getting on the in-board rear ones. The differential needs to be taken out to sort this, which is very involved. Test the handbrake - its self-adusting mechanism needs to be greased and may seize if it isn't.
INTERIOR
Fortunately, the interior isn't something you need to worry about, because practically everything is available. But it just costs quite a bit. Don't under-estimate the price of putting right damaged leather.
Electrical issues are often down to poor earths or bittle wiring, although DIY fiddling can also cause trouble. However, heater motors can stop working - make sure you try it out when you take an S3 for a test drive.
OUR VERDICT
The last of the E-types isn’t everybody’s cup of tea, because it’s set up as a refined and fast grand tourer, not a sports car. Some people argue that the V12 is too refined for the car and seems much more at home in an XJ12 saloon. However, if you love the E-type shape but find the six-cylinder engines a bit too aggressively sporty, then the Series 3 is for you.
There are compromises in the soft-top, such as a foul between the headrests and the hood mechanism when the latter is raised. The long wheelbase also did nothing for the proportions that had worked so well on the earlier cars.
Buying cheaply is potentially risky because of the costs of top-quality repairs and restoration. On the other hand, would you want to drive a concours car every day? We reckon the sensible choice is a mid-priced car that’s been carefully checked by a reputable specialist.
The E-type was already 10 years old and firmly established as a legend when the final Series 3 models were launched in 1971. Powered by the brand new V12 engine that would later be fitted in the Jaguar saloons, both the roadster and fixed-head models were on the longer wheelbase introduced for the 2+2 models. So although they looked like the sports car we all knew and loved, they also had some distinctive differences.
One of those differences was the significantly softer suspension, which taken together with the extra length, made the Series 3s more like grand tourers than the earlier E-types had been. Yet despite this slightly more staid image, the astonishing V12 engine brought its own glamour. Although sales of these thirsty big cats slowed following the 1973 oil crisis, Jaguar kept turning them out until 1975, when the XJ-S took over.
Altogether, there were 15,287 built, of which 7990 were roadsters and 7297 fixed-heads. The last 50 all carried a dashboard plaque bearing the signature of Jaguar’s founder, Sir William Lyons.
JAGUAR MK V REVIEW
Jaguar Mk V
Jaguar Cars - as William Lyons SS company had been re-named in 1945 - commenced post-war production with a range of essentially pre-war designs. A considerable improvement on what had gone before, the MkV saloons cruciform-braced chassis featured torsion bar independent front suspension, designed pre-war by the companys Chief Engineer William Heynes, and all-round hydraulic brakes. Jaguars existing Standard-based, six-cylinder, overhead-valve engine was continued in both 2.5- and 3.5-litre forms in the Jaguar Mark V, whose bodywork likewise maintained the pre-war tradition, though with minor up-dating in the form of faired-in headlamps, deeper bumpers, and rear wheel spats. Like its immediate predecessor, the MkV was available in saloon or drophead coup versions and featured the kind of luxuriously appointed interior that had become a Jaguar hallmark. The announcement of Jaguars first new generation post-war saloon - the MkVII - at the 1950 Motor show signalled the end for the MkV, production ceasing in June 1951 after slightly fewer than 10,500 had been built.
JAGUAR MK X REVIEW
Jaguars have always been noted for style, comfort and luxury. We tell you why the MkX definitely fits the bill...
Jaguar Mk X
Despite a decent turn of speed in manual form, this isn’t a sporting Jaguar – it’s far too big for any B-road heroics. However, what it does provide in spades is superb comfort. A well-cared for example should start easily and run smoothly and quietly, with all the refinement you expect from the marque.
A neglected car will feel below par straightaway, and is probably best avoided unless you really are after a restoration project. On the road, that innate refinement shines through with a wonderfully cushioned ride and, while steering and brakes may not be the sharpest, they do contribute to a relaxed and stress-free driving experience.
A luxurious cabin adds to that sense of relaxation. It is both spacious and well-equipped and is a delightful place to spend time. The car is great for long journeys as a result of this comfort. Settling into the large leather seats and looking out over that vast bonnet is a fine experience, and there are few better saloon barges of the period if comfort is top of your agenda.
JAGUAR MK2 REVIEW
Stylish and capable, the Mk2 is, without doubt, one of Jaguar’s finest models. We explain how you need to buy carefully...
Classic Jaguar Mk2 Review
A well-sorted and cherished Mk2 is an enjoyable car to drive and the very essence of a British sporting saloon. From the luxurious interior to the taut and confidence-inspiring handling, you are unlikely to be disappointed behind the wheel of a good example.
There are some that find the 2.4-litre model a little underpowered, while others insist that the 3.4 is a touch sweeter than the 3.8. But whichever model you go for, you can be assured of an entertaining and enjoyable driving experience.
On the road, the Mk2 retains a wonderful sense of civility and composure and it really is a classic that feels perfectly capable of long distance journeys with little effort. But it isn’t only about comfort – this is a Jaguar with a real sporting edge and enthusiastic use allows you to revel in the roar from the straight six. Stirring stuff indeed.
Opt for an automatic model with power steering and it handles nicely around town as well.
VITAL STATISTICS
JAGUAR MK2
Engine 3781cc/6-cyl/DOHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 220bhp@5500rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 240lb ft@3000rpm
Top speed 125mph
0-60mph 8.5sec
Consumption 17mpg
Gearbox 4-spd manual/4-spd auto opt.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
The monocoque bodyshell is a complex potential rust trap, so proper checks are crucial. Key areas to look at are the floorpan, inner and outer sills, wheel arches, the bottom of the doors, and the wings. The latter are expensive to replace so don’t dismiss any early signs of rot. Pay close attention to the door alignment, which can reveal more serious problems with the shell. Spend plenty of time underneath the car, closely inspecting the box sections and legs of the chassis, the front crossmember (particularly the ‘crow’s feet’ at either end, which are connected to the front valance and cross member), the suspension mountings and jacking points, and also the spare wheel well.
ENGINE
The most popular power unit is the familiar 3.8-litre XK engine. Excessive smoke from the exhaust isn’t necessarily a sign of major problems as it can be caused by blockages in the filter and pipework of the breather system – check here first before assuming the worst. Leaks from the crankshaft’s rear oil seal are a common problem, while a rattle from the front of the engine could be a sign of impending timing chain replacement, which is a tricky and expensive job. That said, low oil pressure can affect the operation of the hydraulic tensioner, leading to poor adjustment; so ensure the oil pressure is healthy – around 50psi when cold, 40psi at normal operating temperature.
ELECTRICS
Secondhand parts can substantially reduce costs. A complete set of wood trim can be had for less than £2000, but could involve a lengthy search for the right parts. Check the electrics thoroughly
as well and ensure all the dials are working.
Many cars have been converted to an alternator set-up, so it’s worth checking for this to see if it has been done.
RUNNING GEAR
The Moss four-speed manual overdrive gearbox is a bit heavy and slow in operation but, apart from worn synchromesh, is otherwise reliable (the later full-synchro Jaguar ‘box is smoother). The overdrive unit itself is generally reliable and can be replaced without removing the gearbox. The Borg Warner Type 35 automatic lasts well with regular fluid changes. Replacing a worn clutch means the engine has to come out – not a cheap fix – so check it carefully on the test drive. A failed master or slave cylinder could be the cause of clutch problems, but you’ll want to be sure.
BRAKES
The suspension system on the Mk2 issimple. A knocking from the front of the car can indicate broken coil springs, while a change to coil springs at the rear is a practical upgrade, so see if this has been done on the car you are looking at. The ride should be comfortable but taut, so any sloppiness could mean that an overhaul is due. Replacing the springs, dampers and bushes isn’t particularly difficult, but the costs can soon mount.
Dunlop disc brakes were standard on the Mk2 and provide decent stopping power if everything is healthy. Brakes can seize on little-used examples, while a weak handbrake isn’t uncommon. A defective servo will be apparent on the test drive and a thorough check of brake lines for signs of corrosion is a sensible precaution. Replacement parts are reasonably priced, so a system in need of overhaul shouldn’t be a deal-breaker. Check for movement in the steering column as this is evidence that the bushes need replacing. The fitment of power steering (a period option) is a popular modification and worth seeking out. If wire wheels are fitted, check for wear in the spokes and splines, as professional refurbishment can be costly.
OUR VERDICT
The Jaguar Mk2 – seemingly the vehicle of choice for bank robbers and fictional TV detectives – has to be one of the most popular classics around. And for good reason. With a superb blend of performance, entertaining handling, and luxury, there’s always demand for the Mk2 among classic car enthusiasts.
There are pitfalls to watch for, so choosing carefully is key when it comes to this wonderful car. Do that and you will end up owning one that is perhaps the true embodiment of Sir William Lyons’ maxim of ‘grace, space, and pace’. You’ll be able to enjoy superb performance from the comfort of a luxurious cabin – few cars having the feelgood factor of a well-sorted Mk2.
There is a thriving owner’s club scene and plenty of specialists that can help keep your car in top-notch condition, while a plentiful parts supply is an added ownership bonus. Follow our advice and find a well-cared for example, and you’ll be ready to enjoy everything this fine British car has to offer.
Securing a tidy example is perfectly possible with a careful approach. We’d advise steering clear of any in need of major restoration – those examples are cheap for a reason – and instead focus on finding a solid, rot-free car.
JAGUAR S-TYPE REVIEW
The Jaguar S-type was launched in 1963 and was based on the styling of the Jaguar Mk2, which had been launched four years earlier. At first glance there is little to tell the two apart, but an expert eye will be drawn to the extended rear bodywork, thinner chrome bumpers and larger indicators. Though a different model, the S-type was essentially an updated version of the Mk2 that featured numerous improvements first seen in the Jaguar MkX. The S-type would fill a niche for consumers who wanted all the technological improvements that came with the larger MkX, but in a smaller package similar to the Mk2.
Among the technological improvements on offer was the independent rear suspension system that was first seen on the MkX, which offered far superior road holding to the live rear axle system used in the Mk2. Though the suspension had changed, the engines stayed the same as in the Mk2 and XK models that came before. Both 3.4-litre and 3.8-litre options were available, but extra weight meant that the performance figures were slightly worse than in the Mk2. Despite the on-paper figures, the S-type was hailed as being a much more capable car, particularly in adverse weather conditions.
The first and most significant wave of developments came only a year after the S-type entered production, in 1964. In line with changing technology, the crossply tyres were changed for radials, which gave the S-type even great roadholding, allowing spirited drivers to better exploit the advanced suspension setup. Also of huge importance was the scrapping of the controversial Moss gearbox, which lacked synchromesh on first gear and had a reputation for being very difficult to use. In its place was a Jaguar unit with synchromesh on all four gears, a unit that proved much more user friendly. An effective Laycock overdrive unit was also introduced.
While early cars are very desirable, the pick of the bunch is cars produced between 1964 and 1966. They benefit from the addition of the more usable and durable gearbox, and also have leather upholstery – which was changed to a cheaper vinyl late in the production run, from 1967 onwards. Luckily, these cars are also the most numerous, with the lion’s share of cars being built in 1965.
Despite the fact that the Jaguar S-type is widely regarded as the better car, values have always trailed behind the Mk2. While the car sold well in period and the technological improvements were well received, the love-it or hate-it styling did not age well. As a result, the S-type presents a fantastic way to get into a real classic Jaguar without breaking the bank.
Incredibly, prices for this wondrous saloon start from less than £10,000, topping out at around £25-30,000.
If you’ve got your heart set on a Jaguar Mk2 we would suggest you go for a quick spin in a S-type before you make up your mind. The improved mechanicals give the S-type much-improved handling – as long as you can get along with that big back end. Values are sure to rise.
VITAL STATISTICS
ENGINE 3781cc/6-cyl/DOHC
POWER 220bhp@5500rpm
TORQUE 240lb ft@3000rpm
TOP SPEED 121mph
0-60MPH 8.5secs
ECONOMY 22mpg
GEARBOX 4-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK
Unsurprisingly, weakened bodyshells are the cause of most S-types being scrapped. The Mk1 (which evolved into the Mk2 then the S-type) was Jaguar’s first monocoque model, so its structure incorporates numerous rust traps – it doesn’t help that Jaguar applied virtually no rust prevention measures. Take on a baggy S-type and you’ll need lots of expertise – plus a well-equipped workshop – to revive it. Get it revived professionally and it’ll cost you far more (potentially £30,000+) than to just buy a decent example at the outset.
If there’s much visible corrosion, there’ll be lots more hidden, in the structure – an S-type that looks superficially good can be rotten underneath, so get the car on a ramp. Start with the two longitudinal chassis legs, which meet a crossmember beneath the nose. Although the structure is unitary, this integral chassis adds essential strength. Also focus on the area where the chassis legs join the crossmember and the adjacent crows’ feet, which tie the front wings to the crossmember. These are the supports for the front wings, along with the vertical radiator cowls. Expect rust here, allowing water into the chassis leg.
Corrosion then moves down to the jacking point below the A-post, so look for distortion of the metal and poor-quality plating. This area is often bodged, as it’s complicated. Check the base of each front wing, looking for cracking paint working downwards across the sill from the bottom front corner of the door aperture. This area is key, as proper restoration requires a jig for strengthening, and all rotten metal cut out.
The usual giveaway is uneven door shuts, the lower front corner sticking out while the window surround is in contact with the door jamb. Other rot spots include the rear anti-roll bar mountings, floorpans, wheelarches and the back of the sills along with the spare wheel well’s centre section and the fuel tanks (there are two). That’s not all, though; the outer panels also corrode spectacularly, especially the grille and headlight surrounds plus the area where the sill and front door meet along with the rear door/wheel spat junction. The trailing edge of the bootlid rusts, as do the door bottoms.
ENGINE
Offered in 3.4 or 3.8-litre forms (S-Type) or 4.2-litre (420), the XK engine needs regular maintenance if it isn’t to wear prematurely. Look for a service history, make sure the engine doesn’t sound hollow or rattly and ensure the oil is clean. Budget for a rebuild as soon as the engine shows signs of wear; delay things and the bills will quickly mount, especially if something breaks.
The XK powerplant features a cast-iron block and alloy cylinder head; because of the latter, anti-freeze levels must be maintained or internal corrosion is guaranteed. Even a well-maintained engine could need a fresh radiator every five to ten years; new ones are £500 exchange, with alloy versions available for much the same money. To check for engine wear, take a look at what oil pressure there is; a healthy unit will show 40psi at 2500rpm.
However, senders and gauges tend to under-read, so use a temporary gauge for an accurate picture. Some oil consumption is normal, but lots of smoke on the over-run or when the throttle is blipped means hardened valve stem seals or worn valve guides. Specialists charge £1500+ to fix things, but complications such as corrosion of the water ports could mean a significantly bigger bill. XK engines can be made oil-tight, but a bit of weeping is normal. However, if the car’s underside is coated in oil it’s probably because the rear crankshaft oil seal has failed, signalling it’s time for a complete rebuild. Specialists charge £4500+ or you could do the work yourself for £800+, but it requires a special tool plus knowledge to fit the oil seal.
TRANSMISSION
Until September 1965, manual-gearbox S-types had a four-speed Moss transmission without synchromesh on first. It’s a strong unit, but on hard-driven, abused or high-mileage cars you should expect some wear.
Parts for this gearbox are hard to find, so rebuilds are costly. Later S-types and all 420s came with an all-synchro box that’s also strong, but much harder to find on a used basis, so whatever is fitted, make sure it doesn’t jump out of gear and that you can select ratios easily.
Overdrive was optional for all S-type and 420 derivatives, but most cars came with it. A Laycock system, expect it to engage smoothly and swiftly; any issues are likely to be down to clogged filters or dodgy electrical connections. Rebuilt overdrives are available for around £350 on an exchange basis. A new clutch means removing the engine, and a three-piece kit is £200 or so. Most S-types and 420s have a Borg Warner automatic. A DG unit was fitted until June 1965; after that there was a Type 35 unit. Both are durable, but the latter is smoother. Rebuilds are rarely needed. Graham Whitehouse charges £2675 to overhaul the lot (including the torque converter) and another £860 to remove and refit everything. You can expect to pay anything from £250 for a usable second-hand auto box; the DG and Type 35 units are interchangeable.
Whitehouse also offers a conversion to a modern four-speed auto, but it’s complicated as it requires a new propshaft, drive plate, starter motor and more. For the parts alone it costs £6200; get the Whitehouse team to do all the work and you’ll have to cough up another £2800 if the car starts out as an auto. Convert from a manual and labour becomes £5000.
STEERING & SUSPENSION
Neither the S-type nor the 420 got power steering as standard, although it was a popular option – and something that’s necessary with the weight of that big straight-six in the nose. Earlier power steering featured a Burman recirculating ball system, which is low-geared, but reliable. Later, there was a higher ratio Adwest power steering system, giving a much better feel. One of the key characteristics that separated the S-type from the Mk2 was the fitment of independent suspension all round; it’s the same set-up as fitted to the Mk X and E-type models.
As such, it’s reliable but you still need to check for the usual potential issues such as tired dampers, worn bushes and sagging springs; everything is available and upgrades are easy.
WHEELS & BRAKES
Wire wheels are a popular fitment; if fitted, make sure the splines aren’t worn by getting somebody to sit on the car with their foot on the brake. Try to rock the car top and bottom; any detectable movement indicates worn splines. Also look for rusty or broken spokes; replacement 72-spoke wheels are £250 apiece (chrome) or £150 for painted items.
As with the Mk2, the S-type and 420 came with disc brakes all round, but even in good condition the system is only just up to the job, while the 420 benefited from having different front uprights and larger three-pot calipers. The problem is usually down to corroded pistons and cylinders. Everything is available and upgrades are straightforward, but parts costs are high although the system is relatively uncomplicated.
TRIM & ELECTRICS
A 1960s Jag interior is something to behold if in good nick. However, Jaguar didn’t use the best quality materials, so tired trim is common. You can buy some superb quality trim kits to make it all as good as new, but by the time you’ve replaced the carpets, seat covers, trim panels and headlining you could easily spend £4000 for the parts alone; get it all done by a specialist and that could add another £2000-£3000 to the bill.
OUR VERDICT
You don’t have to be on a budget to fancy an S-type or 420 over a Mk2, as these overlooked models are superior in ious ways. However, if buying a Mk2 is fraught with danger, trying to find a decent S-type or 420 is even more so, as decent examples are rare. Good survivors of either type aren’t common, which is why you absolutely must buy the best you can afford and the best you can find.
JAGUAR SS1 REVIEW
William Lyons' Swallow Sidecar Coachbuilding Company had produced some very stylish sporting bodies on ious proprietary chassis before introducing their rakish Jaguar SS1 in 1931.
Initially installed with the 2,054cc six-cylinder Standard 16 engine, in October 1933 this power unit was enlarged to 2,664cc.
The SS90 two-seat sports appeared in March 1935 when the new chief engineer William Heynes and consultant Harry Weslake designed an ohv head for the 2.7-litre Standard engine, which with twin carburrettors boosted power from 84 to 104bhp.
In 1936 the new Jaguar SS100 sports two-seater was introduced with this power unit and in 1938 the model was offered with a further developed 3 1/2-litre engine which produced 125bhp, at last making the SS100 truly capable of just over 100mph. Of the 314 examples built, many had successes in rallying, with class wins in the 1937 and 1938 RAC Rallies, and a Coupe des Alpes win in the 1948 Alpine by Ian Appleyard in the only post war example. To many people the archetypal sportscar of the late 1930s is summed up to perfection by the SS100. Its lengthy bonnet, slab tank tail, louvred bonnet, folding screen, flowing wings, sculpted doors, and fine performance all added up to an amazing car for £395 with 2 1/2-litres, and only £445 3 1/2-litre form. With excellent brakes, steering and geabox, the 3 1/2-litre propelled the SS100 to 60mph in under 11 seconds. With this formula the model should have been a vast success, but a combination of four factors including the perceived relative youth of the company against more established marques, the intervention of the war, the price - which many believed was too low, since the car attracted a rather flashy image, and lastly SS were still buying in engines rather than producing the whole car themselves. Just 198 2 1/2-litre and 116 3 1/2-litre examples were sold, but in later years these rare cars have come to be appreciated for the sensational features the model has, indeed the looks of the SS100 have been much copied by ious replica car manufacturers who have based their cars on more modern Jaguar components.
JAGUAR XJ6 REVIEW
Classic Jaguar XJ6 Review
When Jaguar swept aside its entire range of saloons in the late-1960s and replaced them with just one model (the XJ6), not even the famously money-conscious marque could have envisaged that the basic design would endure for 41 years. The mould set under William Lyons in 1968 wouldn’t be broken until 2009, when the completely re-shaped XJ model came along. However, the Jaguar XJ6 didn’t make it through to middle age without a few nips and tucks along the way.
The original Series I cars were made until 1973, when the demands of safety, environmental issues and British Leyland penny-pinching dictated a metamorphosis into the Series II. It was, in many ways, something of a disappointment after some of the great Jaguars of the past, so when the time came for a further revamp, Jaguar decided not to take any chances and brought in a foreign designer for the first time in its history.
The Series III, launched in 1978, still kept the familiar handsome XJ6 shape, but the hand of Pininfarina was in the finer details. The roofline was raised, the glasshouse deepened, bumpers went from pure chrome to chrome-topped black rubber, the trim was improved and flush-mounted door handles were fitted. All these factors made the car look sleeker and even better proportioned than before. The exterior was matched by a re-worked interior that dispensed with the slightly cheap and tacky look of the SIIs.
At launch, there were three Jaguar variants (3.4- and 4.2-litre XJ6 and 5.3-litre XJ12), alongside four Daimlers (Sovereign 4.2, Double Six, Vanden Plas 4.2 and Vanden Plas 5.3. Prices ranged from £11,189 to £20,277, and that was before customers started ticking option boxes such as air conditioning (£988), or an electric sunroof (£461).
Pininfarina’s flourishes so revived interest in the XJ range that major modifications through the SIII’s life were confined largely to correcting teething troubles all the way to its end in 1992.
VITAL STATISTICS
Engine 4235cc/6-cyl/DOHC
Power 205bhp @ 5000rpm
Torque 236lb ft @ 3700rpm
Top Speed 127mph
0-60mph 10sec
Economy 16.8mpg
Gearbox 3-speed automatic
It takes a special kind of car design to actually suit ‘Portland Beige’ paint (actually a sort of pale yellow) and a vivid tan leather interior, but somehow this Jaguar XJ6 SIII manages to look terrific even with this combo.
It feels it, too – this car may have been manufactured during the latter BL years, but the doors still open and close with a bank vault ‘thud’, the walnut veneers glow and the leather smells heavenly. Rubber bumpers or not, this feels every inch a proper Jaguar.
It certainly goes like a proper Jaguar, but only if you have a little insider knowledge. In truth (and new Bosch L-Jetronic fuel injection notwithstanding), performance can feel a little underwhelming if you simply leave the transmission in ‘D’; it might pack a 205bhp punch, but this is a 1760kg car after all. An abruptly heavy right boot will instigate kickdown, but even then, acceleration feels more relentless than startling.
The trick is to hold the car in first gear all the way to the redline and then drop it back into ‘D’; Autocar shaved nearly a second off the 0-60mph sprint and a whopping 1.6 seconds from rest to 110mph using this apparently Jaguar-recommended method during its 1979 road test of an early SIII.
In truth, though, unless you’re Edward Woodward’s 1980s TV hero, Robert McCall, chasing down another bad guy in The Equalizer (he drove a black XJ6 SIII), this seems like overkill. There’s plenty of power to make overtaking a breeze, but this is a relaxed high-speed cruiser, not a wham-bam sprinter.
That said, the SIII lost none of its predecessors’ appetite for blasting along challenging B-roads. Jaguar wound down the level of steering power-assistance for the new car, prompting Autocar to describe its combination of ride, handling and roadholding as ‘superb’. The same is true today. The car belies its considerable heft with a level of deftness in the bends that beggars belief, considering how effortlessly it smothers poorly-metalled road surfaces.
Expert’s view
"A good XJ6 will be a reliable and comfortable car, but like everything it has its weak points. Rust is the main culprit, so check around the front and rear windows, rear valance and boot floor, and the sills. Lift the carpet to check the floor for signs of rust. Front chassis legs and cross member can corrode and will be expensive to fix."
"Mechanicals are usually solid, but check for a leaky or noisy diff and a noisy cylinder head. Pulling under braking can be due to seized calipers. A full service at a decent garage should cost no more than £300, so not as expensive as you might think. An entry-level car with an MoT can be had for £1200, but a good car with full history will cost upwards of £5000. They are now becoming relatively scarce and are still proving to be a reasonably priced British classic."
- Thomas Barclay, Jaguar Specialist
Thomas Barclay has worked on Jaguars for many years and is also heavily involved in historic racing.
JAGUAR XJR REVIEW
Classic Jaguar XJR Review
Apart from the Jaguar XJR manual being a rarity, the X306 range is notable in its own right, being only the second Jaguar to use anything other than a normally-aspirated engine (the first was the turbocharged XJ220) and the first to use a supercharger. The X300 shape also marked a return to the traditional fluted bonnet/twin headlight design that had been an XJ6 trademark for so long, before the introduction of the flatter, squarer-rigged XJ40 in 1989.
Despite appearances, however, the X300 wasn’t an entirely new car. A brand-new car, codenamed XJ90, had been planned originally, but the recession of 1991 put paid to that idea.
Former Jaguar technical director Jim Randle is on record as saying that Jaguar’s eventual compromise was to take the central portion of the XJ40 and add the front and rear sections of the stillborn XJ90 to make the X300. The result was mighty impressive computer-aided design (a first for the Jaguar marque) makes the common styling ground between the two cars very difficult to spot.
‘X300’ is an umbrella name for the earliest of these 3.2-litre and 4.0-litre cars. ‘X305’ was the codename used for the 6.0-litre V12 cars from the same period, the last of which – a black XJ12 – rolled off the production line in April 1997, and is now part of the Jaguar Heritage museum collection. Meanwhile, the supercharged models, went by the X306 moniker.
By 1997, further revisions had given rise to the visually similar (from the outside at least) V8-engined X308, which saw this supposed interim model through to 2003, when the all-new aluminium-bodied X350 was finally launched. The X308 was much praised at its launch, but its reputation was later marred when it emerged that the Nikasil engine bore linings that Jaguar (and, indeed, BMW) had used on all X308s built before August 2000 would break down rapidly when exposed to the high sulphur petrol that was prevalent at the time. As a result, many engines had to be replaced under warranty.
However, the X306 has no such problems as Nikasil was never used in their engine construction, although owners are now discovering that even well-maintained cars are prone to wheelarch corrosion.
You can have an X306 (the correct model designation for supercharged X300s) in some lairy paint schemes (metallic turquoise, anyone?) and rolling on monster wheels, but the star of our feature is as subdued as they come.
Don’t be fooled, though, because the way this machine responds to a determined prod on the throttle is anything but subtle. Fully 322bhp and 378lb ft of torque from the 4.0-litre straight six engine combine to overwhelm the car’s considerable 1875kg kerbweight (these were the days before big Jags used lightweight all-aluminium bodies, remember) and catapult it from rest to 60mph in six seconds flat before eventually hitting the electronic buffers at a governed 155mph.
The secret of this seriously prodigious get-up-and-go, of course, is the Roots-type supercharger – specifically an intercooled Eaton M90 closely related to the bulletproof blower used on i6 Aston Martin DB7s, among others. Later XJRs relied on a V8 configuration, but the AJ16 six-cylinder engine (itself a development of the AJ6 engines used in the outgoing XJ40) is arguably the sweeter of the two and turbine-smooth when wound up. Handling, as you might expect, errs on the firm side, but not at the expense of Jaguar’s legendary ride quality.
The XJR’s interior is typical of the marque, with plenty of wood, leather and chrome in evidence, and a snug, low-slung driving position that affords a clear view of the sextet of main dials. And for once, the 160mph speedometer doesn’t flatter to deceive.
Only the minor controls for the speed control (Jag-speak for cruise control), which are hidden behind the wiper stalk, feel anything other than intuitive in use. However, as a handsome – in an endearingly low-key sort of a way – and potent executive saloon, few other cars from the period offer so much for so little outlay.
JAGUAR XK120 FHC REVIEW
One of the rarest of all the Jaguar XK 120 series body styles, it was not until March 1951 that Jaguar introduced the glorious fixed head coupe version of its XK 120 roadster which itself appeared at the 1948 Motor Show. Powered by Jaguar's famous 3.4-litre twin overhead camshaft six-cylinder XK engine, there were echoes of the contemporary MkVII saloon in the skillfully contoured lines to the roof, doors and deeper V-windscreen of the Coupe. The fixed head's interior also followed that of the Mk VII, including a walnut veneer dashboard and door cappings, refinements that the open car had not enjoyed. A glovebox, transparent tinted sun visors and two interior lights all contributed to an air of opulence that was absent from the roadster. Wind-up windows and footwell ventilators were also introduced. On its announcement, the fixed head sold for £1,088, some £90 more than the roadster which had a top speed of 120mph, the Coupe capable of slightly more, but just as docile and flexible.
As Ian Appleyard’s legendary rallying XK120, NUB 120, proved during the early 1950s, this car was practically born to excel at motorsport, so it’s hardly a surprise to learn how good they are to drive today.
That said, it’s quite a large car, so is hardly fly-nimble, and the relatively ordinary steering, suspension and brakes (and, on unmodified cars, occasionally obstructive Moss gearbox) combine to make the whole driving experience feel very much of an era. Purists may take a very dim view of running gear upgrades, but done sympathetically and using Jaguar parts, they can transform an XK120 into a genuinely enjoyable sports car.
Taller drivers are strongly advised to make sure they can fit behind the steering wheel – the original four-spoker certainly looks the part, but its sheer size does swallow quite a bit of interior space.
You’re guaranteed to forgive the XK120 anything once you get it onto a B-road and open the taps, though. 160bhp might sound meagre today, but back in 1950, it was considered ballistic, and it does emit a truly fabulous snarl when pushed.
VITAL STATISTICS
JAGUAR XK120
Engine 3442cc/6-cyl/DOHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 160bhp@5000rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 195 lb ft@ 2500rpm
Top speed 120mph
0-60mph 9.8sec
Consumption 19.8mpg
Gearbox 4-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
XK120s can be separated out into two distinct variants: the early all-alloy/ash framed cars (the first 242 cars built up to early 1950, all of which were hand-built roadsters); and the later, cars, which retained aluminium doors and bootlid/bonnet panels, but employed pressed steel elsewhere. Given that XK120 production ended in 1954, you’ll be extremely lucky to find a good car that hasn’t been at least part-restored by now, so watch on early cars for rotten or fractured wood frames and evidence of potentially corrosive electrolytic reaction in any areas where steel and aluminium panels meet.
On balance, it’s often preferable to go for a solid car with tired mechanicals, rather than vice versa. Rebuilding the legendary XK engine is hardly cheap, but when you discover that a new door costs £1500, and a wing can set you back by over £2700, it’s clear that the cost of a full body restoration can spiral out of control, especially if it’s entrusted to a marque specialist. More than any other classic car, it’s strongly advisable to buy the very best example you can afford when hunting out an XK120.
Painstaking originality doesn’t have a huge impact on values (apart from within the rarefied circles of concours competition), although very early models with plain wheels and rear arch spats are generally preferred left as originally intended, rather than upgraded with basket wire wheels and removed spats. Returning modified cars back to original spec isn’t particularly difficult, although reversing other popular modifications (bonnet louvres, leather bonnet straps, etc.) can be trickier, and may involve a considerable outlay.
ENGINE
Since the XK120’s six-cylinder engine came into being before the car itself, this is clearly the heart of the matter. Broadly speaking, it’s a strong unit, although it does tend to use oil and isn’t immune to poor cooling. Persistent stalling can often be traced back to something simple, like a blocked petrol tank breather or incorrect valve clearances, while a rattling noise from the bottom of the engine suggests that the timing chain is on its last legs. Since replacement involves removal of the engine, this can be a deal-breaker.
ELECTRICS
Supermodel looks notwithstanding, the XK120’s steering and suspension setup is relatively ordinary, with a torsion bar and telescopic dampers up front, and a leaf-sprung live axle out back allied to lever arm dampers. Steering is recirculating ball. It’s not uncommon for XK120s to be uprated using later XK140 components (telescopic dampers, rack and pinion steering), while specialists can re-build and modify existing steering to eliminate an original design flaw that can cause premature wear.
RUNNING GEAR
All XK120s were factory-fitted with the (in)famous Moss gearbox, which was relatively unpopular when new, and doesn’t take kindly to rushed changes. Upgrading to a later, all-synchromesh gearbox is common; the XJ6’s overdrive transmission is a popular choice, although transplanting a Getrag five-speeder is a more straightforward swap, just so long as the ’box comes with an adaptor plate to allow it to marry up with the bellhousing. Budget on £3500 for a reconditioned unit.
BRAKES
Half shafts are a known weak point on XK120s, simply because they are so rarely properly maintained or, indeed, replaced. Given enough time and neglect, the oil seal will wear a deep groove in the shaft, which will eventually break it, with inevitable consequences. It’s a similar story with the front stub axle, although eventual failure here on cars with drum brakes can be more serious, as it frequently takes a wheel with it.
OUR VERDICT
The XK120 must surely rate among the most beautiful cars ever made. It’s not especially quick in standard tune, and an unmodified car can prove a challenging handful to the unfamiliar driver, but the sheer drama a sorted example evokes is addictive.
And drama is key to the XK120’s general appeal. Even today, an early roadster (which has a plainer interior and much simpler lightweight soft-top than the later DHC) stands out a mile from the crowd, the deceptive simplicity of its flowing lines bereft of the increasingly heavy-handed jewellery that befell the dynamically superior, but aesthetically fussier XK140 and XK150 DHCs in later years.
It’s also that rarest of classic cars – a true icon. Jaguar founder and design chief William Lyons only ever intended the car to be a short-lived rolling showcase for the new XK engine, so he was genuinely taken aback by the huge interest the car generated at its 1948 London Motor Show debut. Such was its success, in fact, that it took another icon to finally eclipse it – and that car (the E-Type) wasn’t launched until 1961.
Don’t even think about attempting to buy an XK120 on a shoestring budget – remember this was the Bugatti Veyron (albeit a very good value one) of its day, so running costs are likely to be similarly rarefied.
That’s not to say owning one is an impossible dream, however: be prepared to pay for the very best car your bank account can muster and make sure you have a contingency fund on standby for potentially strenuous repairs, and there should be no horror stories waiting for you in future years.
Choose wisely, and you’ll have a piece of genuine iconic motoring history parked in your garage. Every drive will be an exhilarating event, every fuel-stop will make you the centre of attention, and it’s probably about as close to depreciation-proof classic motoring as you’re ever likely to get.
A classic superstar if ever there was one.
JAGUAR XK8 REVIEW
When brand new, Jaguar’s big cat cost £47,950. These days, even good examples cost peanuts. We assess the pros and cons of ownership...
Classic Jaguar XK8 Review
The first thing you notice wonderful noise from the quad-cam 42 valve V8 engine. All 290bhp is put through the rear wheels, and the big engine makes it handle like a car should. Plenty of tail-out action is on the cards and the auto ‘box is a bit of a hindrance for this sort of driving, but comes into its own when you point it down a long, empty stretch of road.
The XK8 is a grand tourer like no other. Cruising is effortless, the cabin quiet and hugely luxurious, albeit not roomy. There is a noticeable lack of space in the cabin, in particular the rear seats, where there is no legroom at all if the person in the front is over 6ft. On the plus side this space seems to have been taken up by the cavernous boot
The real downside is the high fuel consumption. You may get 28mpg at a push, but more likely 19-20mpg. Despite the huge power output, the
XK8 is most comfortable in everyday driving. The ride is as smooth as any you’ll find, the drive as involving as you want it to be.
VITAL STATISTICS
JAGUAR XK8
Engine 3996cc/V8/DOHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 290bhp@6100rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 290lb ft@4250rpm
Top speed 156mph
0-60mph 6.4sec
Consumption 21mpg
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
Nikasil was used by Jaguar as a cylinder lining in the mid-1990s. It has many desirable properties, but, unfortunately, disintegrates when it comes into contact with sulphur, an ingredient of petrol. If the engine is pre-2000 then it has Nikasil lined cylinders, and if there isn’t documentation to prove recall and repair, then walk away. It may be fine, but chances are the damage will already have been done. A lumpy idle is indicative of bore wear due to Nikasil degradation.
Post-2000 cars should be safe, as the sulphur content of UK petrol dropped dramatically and Nikasil was dropped in favour of steel. Jaguar dealers can test for premature engine wear in Nikasil engines. Pre-2000 replacement engines will have a small tag to the nearside of the engine block. If this is missing, it’s on its original engine.
Rust can be a serious issue, as it’s not always visible. Front floor pans were poorly rust-proofed, so lift the carpets and check for any signs of rot. Do the same with the boot liner, but be sure to check thoroughly, lifting sound deadening as well. Pay attention to where the battery tray is welded to the floor. Check both front and rear arches, being sure to look behind the plastic liners, which can disguise serious rust. Rear wheelarch liners cover a shelf that can trap dirt and allow rot to set in. Be sure to poke and prod the front sill. Also give the rear bumper a push and pull; any movement indicates that the metal guides it is attached to are probably rusted through – a new bumper won’t fix the problem. Open the bonnet and check the bottom of the windscreen for signs of rust. Lift any plastic trim to see what’s beneath, and check drain holes are clear. Be wary of cars that have been left under trees, where leaves may block drain holes.
ENGINE
Start the engine from cold and listen for rattling from the cam chain. Many early cars were fitted with defective tensioners, which may result in a loose cam chain over time. The loose chain may jump teeth, causing the car to run rough, or worse, completely self-destruct. Ensure there is evidence in the history file that the tensioner has been updated to a later version, and that the chain has been changed in higher mileage examples. Check the oil filler cap for mayonnaise, and the coolant reservoir for signs of oil. Both indicate a blown headgasket, which requires an engine re-build. Check for white smoke from the tailpipe when revved, which will suggest engine wear that also requires a re-build.
RUNNING GEAR
All-round build quality can be patchy, particularly the mechanics. The five-speed automatic gearbox is described as being ‘sealed for life’, making it hard to check the oil level or top it up. This can result in failure after just 10 years. Check the service history for evidence the gearbox oil has been changed in line with the mileage. Listen for unusual clunking or whining with each gear change, it may suggest the gearbox is on its way out. The XKR is fitted with a much more robust Mercedes-Benz gearbox, which is easier to service and less prone to failure.
BRAKES
Inspect the tyres all round, paying particular attention to the front pair. Any uneven wear may indicate failure of the wishbone bushes, which will cause steering problems. Steering should be crisp, precise and light; anything less and repairs may be on the cards. Wishbone bushes start to go at around 20,000 miles. Once again, make sure that there are records for replacement in the history file.
OUR VERDICT
By now all of the common faults will have come to the fore, so it is fairly easy to find a brilliant example providing you take care. Buying with your head and not your heart is imperative. Do your research, go prepared with a checklist, and stick rigidly to it. Only consider buying a car with no faults, as even minor issues can be costly to put right. Most problems are beyond the realms of the casual mechanic, and though there are plenty of independent specialists, costs will be high.
Fortunately, there is no shortage of cars for sale. Prices are lower than ever, creating a buyer’s market. As long as you know what to look for you have every chance of getting a top class motor for bargain basement money. But remember: if it isn’t perfect, don’t buy it.
Perhaps the best-looking Jaguar since the XJ220, the XK8 used tried and tested design cues that were first employed on the Aston Martin DB7.
Stunning looks combined with awesome performance from the 290bhp V8 engine make the XK8 an attractive proposition for long distance touring. If a 0-60 time of 6.4 seconds still isn’t quite fast enough for you, then there’s always the XKR, the XK8’s supercharged big brother, that puts out an incredible 390bhp.
Both cars have suffered massive depreciation over the years, largely a result of a reputation for poor build quality, huge maintenance costs, and a thirst that would impress George Best. Despite the shady reputation, both cars still look like a million dollars – there are few other ways to look quite so successful, or quite so savvy, for less than £4000. A bona fide modern classic, there is something about this big cat that exudes style and charisma as much today as it did on its release 16 years ago.
JAGUAR S-TYPE R REVIEW
Jaguar's supercharged S-Type offers M5-rivalling performance for less money, making it a scorching family-friendly bargain.
Jaguar's riposte to the E39-generation BMW M5 was to fit an Eaton supercharger to the rather underrated S-Type. The result was a four-door executive saloon that just happened to serve up 400bhp and the ability to blast your way to 155mph in leather-lined luxury.
While it's the Munich-crafted super-caloon that's more in demand 13 years later, the S-Type R offers similar performance for a smaller outlay, making it a family-friendly saloon with sure-fire future classic credentials.
All are fitted with the blown, 4.2-litre version of Jaguar's AJV8 engine and a six-speed ZF autobox, with the only major update coming in 2004 when some of its busier lines were tidied up as part of a facelift for the entire S-Type range.
Today, the R represents one of the best value routes into performance Jaguar ownership, with prices hitting the bottom of their depreciation curve. It's also the rarest, best-equipped and fastest of the modern S-Types, so now is definitely the time to buy one.
VITAL STATISTICS
Engine 4196cc/V8/DOHC
Power 400bhp@6100rpm
Torque 408lb ft@3500rpm
Maximum speed 155mph
0-60mph 5.3 sec
Fuel consumption 20-27mpg
Transmission RWD, six-speed auto
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
Pipe down!
A common S-Type R niggle is the water pipe beneath the supercharger failing. The component itself only costs about £20, but relacing it involves lifting out the supercharger to gain access, so labour costs quickly stack up. Check carefully to see if there are tell-tale antifreeze stains around the pipe, and haggle accordingly if you know if needs replacing.
Suspension
The rear suspension arm bushes are prone to wearing out - particularly if the car's been used hard throughout its life - so check them carefully for signs of perishing or flexing. The good news is that you can buy the bushes independently of the arm itself, which keeps costs down.
Get into gear
The six-speed ZF autobox should be as silky smooth as you'd expect a Jaguar to be. On a good example, the shifts will feel seamless - walk away from anything that isn't. Earlier models suffered from a jerky shift due to an electrical glitch, but this fauly should have been ironed out years ago during ECU upgrades. Any problems later in life caused by hard us will be trickier to sort, particularly as the unit is sealed for life.
Don't mix up the coolant
The cooling system is generally reliable, but watch out for cars that have been given the wrong type of coolant. Jaguar specified a red coolant that's not meant to be mixed with regular antifreeze. Blend the two and a thick sludge forms, which eventually leads to overheating - take the radiator cap off and make sure there isn't any.
Check the sills
Jaguar's ability to keep rust at bay has improved markedly, but the S-Type R isn't immune, and pre-facelift cars are particularly susceptible. The key place to check is around each sill - it's covered by a panel which over time can trap water, so look for any signs of rust or discolouration. Poorly-repaired bodywork is a magnet for rust too, so keep an eye open for clues that the S-Type you're looking at might have been repaired on too tight a budget.
The inside story
The R's leather-lined cabin tends to be generally free form niggles, but watch out for heaters and air conditioning systems playing up - though faults here will most likely be down to easily replaceable valves. A more qorrying sign is an S-Type interior that's ageing prematurely, with wear visible on the driver's seat leather and the steering wheel, which can indicate the car's been clocked.
OUR VERDICT
The S-Type offers M5-baiting performance for less cash and it's still at the bottom of its depreciation curve.
Its looks may be love-it-or-loathe-it, but once you're inside, the supercharged V8 offers up effortless performance and more practicality than the XKR and XKJ models of the same era.
Earlier cars in particular have a few glitches to look for, but choose carefully and you can get one of Jaguar's supersaloon greats before the classic world cottons on and starts to push up prices.
JAGUAR E-TYPE V12 REVIEW
We take a look at the most affordable of the E-types...
When the Jaguar E-type first broke cover in 1961 it was universally accepted as the most exciting and beautiful, yet attainable, sports car that had been ever been built.
As time went on though, the E-type strayed from the design purity which the original Series 1 was famed for. Some changes improved the car, namely the move away from the tough-to-use Moss gearbox, but others were much less welcome. The Series 3 E-type became the least popular iteration due in part to the thirsty 5.3-litre engine, which upset the cars handling, but also its extended 2+2 floorpan that many believe spoiled the attractive proportions of the earlier cars. It’s because of this that the V12 E-type is the most affordable of the range, and can provide a bargain route into E-type ownership.
VITAL STATISTICS
Jaguar E-Type V12
Engine 5344cc/12-cyl/SOHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 272bhp@5850rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 304lb ft@3600rpm
Top speed 146mph
0-60mph 6.4sec
Consumption 14mpg
Gearbox 4-spd manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
Rust will be your chief concern when looking at a car of this age. However, the value of the cars is now so high that the majority have been restored. So your main worry should be the quality of that restoration. Panel fit will be the first giveaway of a poor job, so make sure gaps are equal and even over the entirety of the car. Check for rippling in the bodywork and any signs of excess filler use – a magnet wrapped in a soft cloth is a useful tool to have to hand. The history file shouldback up work that has been done.
If it’s at the lower end of the market then you should be wary of rust. The base of B-pillars is a common rot spot and sills can be vulnerable too. If you can, get the car up on ramps to inspect the underside, paying particular attention to the anti-roll bar mountings. Also check the rear wheel arches – these panels are double skinned and moisture can creep in along the leading edge.
ENGINE
The big V12 engine is less desirable than 3.8- or 4.2-litre variants due to extra weight upsetting the E-type’s handling, but also because it has a prodigious thirst. All told though, the 5.3-litre engine is a great piece of engineering that is capable of lasting much longer than its smaller relations.
Despite its ability to cover big miles, its aluminium heads are vulnerable to overheating, as are delicate internal components. An electric fan is a good sign, but it can be used to hide overheating problems. Fire the car up and let it idle for 15 minutes, keeping a close eye on the gauges. Thenwatch for ignition amplifier troubles on hot re-starts.
Both automatic and manual gearboxes are reliable and pleasant to use, but many owners choose to upgrade to Borg Warner units. This shouldn’t affect value unless the car is to concours standard, and is generally accepted within the Jaguar community. It is still wise to check for any unusual noises, worn synchromesh and any signs of jumping out of gear.
RUNNING GEAR
The oily bits of the V12 E-type are quite rugged, but can be vulnerable to road salt and grime on examples that are less well cared for. Even if the bodywork looks good, make sure you get under the car to inspect the suspension to check for signs of corrosion – the rear radius arm is a common rot spot.
Make sure that the brakes are strong and pull evenly. As inboard units they can be a real pig to fix yourself, and will cost a fortune if you have to outsource to a specialist. Check for any leaks, as the differential will have to be removed for access.
If chrome wire wheels are fitted, make sure that they are in good condition. Tap the spokes and check for a ringing noise. Look too for signs of regular cleaning. Refurbishment or replacement is very expensive, so take this into account if you find any flaking chrome or snapped and bent spokes.
Be aware that many E-types have been repatriated from the Unites States and converted to right-hand drive – their values will be less than original UK cars. The chassis number will provide a clue. If it begins in 1 or 5, it is right-hand drive, if it begins with 2 or 7 then it was originally a left-hand drive example.
INTERIOR
Electrics are relatively simple, so shouldn’t pose any issues in restored cars. A project is a different matter – brittle wiring can cause havoc, with the only real option being a new wiring loom. This is an expensive undertaking and will need to be taken to a specialist.
OUR VERDICT
The range is fairly rare in this country, although it has a huge following in Europe where the cars are more plentiful. A black one is the ultimate baddies’ car from Cold War thrillers, and your perception of the range might be coloured just as much by this as by the fact that thousands of them served as taxis all over the world.
But the Fintails were much more than all those things, because the range also embraced high-spec, high-tech six-cylinders at the top end. These aren’t for the weak of wallet if they need work, but they are rewarding to own and to drive, and you can guarantee that you won’t often see another one at a classic car event.
All the cars are built like the proverbial tank, all of them offer plenty of room for family transport to and from events, and basic running costs are reasonably affordable too. Just don’t expect to find very many spares at autojumbles in the UK. Your starting-point for spares should be one of the used parts specialists; some of them have New Old Stock parts too, so you might just get lucky.
There aren’t enough roadworthy Fintails about for you to be too picky when you go looking. Basically, if it’s a good sound car and you can afford it, we’d recommend you go for it. Otherwise, you might hold out for a more desirable specification for a very long time.
In an ideal world, you’d probably go for a manual-transmission 220 or 220S, with carburettor six-cylinder engine and a reasonably comfortable specification – though don’t forget Mercedes charged extra for just about everything in the 1960s, so equipment levels can be surprisingly spartan.
A Fintail Mercedes isn’t quite as easy to live with as more popular and numerous British-made classics, but in some ways it’s more rewarding because of its relative rarity. As they say of so many things, the highs are higher but the lows are lower!
JAGUAR XJ SERIES II REVIEW
There is plenty of luxury on offer with a Series 2...
Jaguar XJ Series II
With the styling of the Series 1 widely admired, Jaguar weren’t about to mess with such a successful recipe. The Series 2 of 1973 was a case of gentle evolution then, distinguished by a shallower grille and higher-set front bumper to satisfy US safety regulations. Engines were largely unchanged, although a 3.4-litre XK unit replaced the 2.8 version in 1975; the XJ-SC coupé arrived the same year.
VITAL STATISTICS
Jaguar XJ Series 2 V12
Engine 5343cc/V12/Single cam
Power (bhp@rpm) 265bhp@6000rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 301lb ft@3500rpm
Top speed 142mph
0-60mph 8.3sec
Consumption 12.4mpg
Gearbox 3-spd auto
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
Rot in panels will be obvious but bubbling in the screen surrounds or beneath a vinyl roof spell trouble. It’s particularly important to check the valances and spare wheel well, the front crossmember beneath the radiator, and the subframe mounting points. You really need to get the car on a ramp for complete peace of mind.
ENGINE
Oil leaks are common along with worn timing chains and tensioners, and you want to see over 40psi of oil pressure when warm. All engines need a cooling system in tip-top condition – lack of use and incorrect anti-freeze levels can cause the engine block to silt-up, with overheating and head gasket failure almost guaranteed to follow. Don’t ignore a car that starts or runs poorly as carburettor or injection system woes can be labour-intensive to fix, while the Lucas ignition wasn’t a paragon of reliability either. A smoky exhaust should ring very loud alarm bells, especially if there’s a V12 badge on the back, while a strong smell of fuel points to problems with the twin fuel tanks or pipework, both of which can corrode with obvious consequences.
RUNNING GEAR
Power steering hydraulics can get leaky, a noisy system could mean a pump on its way out, while perished steering rack bushes will cause vague handling. Lack of use can cause the inboard rear brakes to seize, so make sure they feel healthy on the test drive and that the handbrake holds and releases okay. The ride should be quiet and cosseting so anything less probably means an overhaul is on the cards. There are plenty of bushes to replace – particularly at the rear – so labour costs can mount.
INTERIOR
Watch for damaged door cards too, while replacing a sagging headlining is a task best left to the experts. Never exactly robust in the electrical department, brittle wiring and corroded connectors will wreak havoc so make sure everything is working.
OUR VERDICT
What draws many people to the XJ is the elegant and beautifully proportioned styling,
and it’s a shape you’ll never tire of admiring. It’s also well appointed, very comfortable, and has
a superb ride. Old-school British luxury then,
but there are prices to pay in terms of build quality and reliability and you could never justify the cost of a full restoration. Find one that’s been cared for though and it’s a wonderful way to travel.
A Fintail Mercedes isn’t quite as easy to live with as more popular and numerous British-made classics, but in some ways it’s more rewarding because of its relative rarity. As they say of so many things, the highs are higher but the lows are lower!
JAGUAR XJ40 REVIEW
Could buying an XJ40 be the cheapest route into Jaguar ownership today? Check out our buyers guide...
Driving a good XJ40 today is still an experience. If you can find a decent one it should provide the legendary Jaguar mix of a smooth and cosseting ride, with excellent progressive handling when pressed into action. The XJ40 is a real Jaguar – smooth,
powerful, comfortable and made to cruise effortlessly with speed and comfort. The ‘40 is obviously not a sports or performance car as such – it’s a large and heavy barge, so there are certain limits to the acceleration and handling capabilities.
It is however a surprisingly powerful, large engined car with much better handling than you might expect. In many ways it’s a more refined British equivalent of an American muscle car. But there’s a great deal more to the XJ40 than comfort. The steering is tight and delivers plenty of feel and the manual gearchange is chunky and precise. When the driver starts to crack on, its low-roll handling and sublimely controllable rear end make this a surprisingly capable driver’s car for one so large.
VITAL STATISTICS
1986 Jaguar XJ40 3.6
Engine 3590cc/6-cyl/DOHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 221bhp@5000rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 248lb ft@4000rpm
Top speed 136mph
0-60mph 7.4sec
Consumption 25mpg
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
It is vital to check a prospective purchase over properly as the build quality often left a lot to be desired. However, quality control did improve in later cars. Check all the lower extremities – door skins will happily corrode away from their frames, so examine the door bottoms for damage. Bonnets corrode along their leading edge. Bootlids and wheelarches are other rot spots, along with the sills. Watch out for seized boot locks. Check the exterior button works! Rear window pillars can fill with water and rust from the inside out, so check the crude joint – covered by trim – at the base of the rear window pillars.
With all XJs it’s important to have a good look at the structure underneath. The XJ40 can rot its front subframe, and, being foam-filled, cannot be simply welded for repair. Front wings are bolt-on, but unlike earlier Series XJs, they give few rot problems. Boot seals often give way causing structural problems at the rear, and the front inner wings can also succumb to rust. If you find one with badly rotted inner wings, it’s time to walk away.
ENGINE
The entry-level engine option was the 2.9-litre version, later replaced by the 3.2-litre. The bigger 3.6-litre originally offered was also superseded by a 4.0-litre version. The 6.0-litre V12 variant finally arrived in 1993. Head gasket problems aren’t uncommon, especially if the car has been neglected, so check for white residue in the oil filler cap and coolant. Both warn of potential problems, but can also be signs that a car may have done lots of short journeys and rarely been fully warmed up, itself not a good sign. Excessive steam from the exhaust even when fully warmed through is another tell tale. Timing chains can suffer with broken tensioners, and a poorly maintained example can easily cost hundreds of pounds to get right again. These cars carry a lot of sound-deadening in the engine bay, so fire up the engine with the bonnet up to listen for any nasty knocks or bangs. As long as regular service intervals have been maintained and a good quality oil used, then the units tend to last well.
RUNNING GEAR
XJ40s were available with both manual and automatic boxes and both survive well if looked after, as long as the transmission fluid is replaced regularly. The fluid is cooled by a heat exchanger on the nearside of the radiator. This has been known to crack, causing fluid to leak into the coolant, so check for this. Reconditioned boxes are available should the worst happen.
Front and rear suspension rely on the compliance of a great number of rubber bushes – these start to break up after 50,000 miles or so and need to be replaced. This can be done at home if you’re handy with the spanners. Some models, such as the Sport and XJR come with firmer suspension and tyre/wheel combinations, so any failing components will be further highlighted. Check speed rating of tyres, particularly on XJR models. Alloy wheels can succumb to corrosion quite easily and let down the appearance of an otherwise presentable car – reconditioning is possible, but keeping an eye out for a replacement set could be a cheaper option.
INTERIOR
Exterior trim lasts reasonably well, although bumpers and other stainless parts can be costly to replace if damaged. Door handles on early cars have been known to break under heavy use. Some bargain basement XJ40s were ordered with cloth trim, but this is not a popular option today and you’re better off holding out for leather versions. Leather seats last well, but driver’s side bolsters can wear badly. If electrically operated, check they still function properly fore and aft. Check wood for any signs of delamination of the lacquer and ensure all the electrics and remote control fobs work.
OUR VERDICT
The XJ40 was Jaguar’s first tentative step into a new world of modernity and electronics. The result was a car every bit a match for the contemporary BMW or Mercedes-Benz. The six-cylinder XJ40 was a mixture of old-school styling and cutting edge dynamics. Though the early 3.6-litre cars were riddled with electrical niggles that ended up frustrating their owners, as the model aged, Jaguar got on top of the problems and in the later years produced a very fine car indeed. Following Ford’s takeover, the improved 4.0-litre cars appeared in 1990, conventional instrumentation, uprated electrics and a much torquier engine making them easier to drive. But mud sticks and although most difficulties have been retrospectively sorted, values are seriously affected. The end result is that you can find XJ40s surprisingly cheaply today. What’s not to love about a bargain Jag?
JAGUAR XJ6 SERIES III REVIEW
There's plenty of choice when it comes to the Series III, and here's how to pick the very best...
When introduced in 1979, the Jaguar XJ6 Series III was not immediately to everyone's liking. Despite an expensive redesign with its Pininfarina styled roof, and refreshed cabin, some Big Cat enthusiasts felt that it was taking liberties with the classic looks of one of their favourites. In fact, the Series III set out to rectify some of the deficiencies of the Series II, and was better equipped for everyday use, but you had to try one to find that out. In addition to new body panels, the new model had an increased amount of glass, and a much-needed additional 3in of headroom in the back - great if you're being chauffered! External differences included flush door handles, vertical grille bars, revised 'Gothic' rear lamp clusters, and impact bumpers with decorative chrone along their top edges. There were three engine options to choose from, 3.4- and 4.2-litre straight sixes and V12 5.3-litre. The 4.2 had the advantage of fuel injection, while the 3.4- and 4.2- litre cars both had the option of the LT77 five-speed manual gearbox.
VITAL STATISTICS
Engine: 4235cc/6-cyl/DOHC
Power: 205bhp@5000rpm
Torque: 236lb ft@3750rpm
Maximum speed: 130mph
0-60mph: 8.5sec
Fuel consumption: 16-20mpg
Transmission: RWD, five-speed manual/three-speed auto
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
Rotten luck
While these cars are known for being well built, rot free they are not. One of the first areas where rust attacks the bodywork is beneath the rear valance where the exhausts emerge. Check the boot floor too. A really crucial area to inspect is where the rear suspension radius arms are mounted to the floorpan near the rear doors. Water can infiltrate the double-skinned rear valance and if the rubber is slack around the front and rear windscreens, it can get in and cause damage to the surrounding areas. If mudflaps are fitted, lift them to inspect the state of the wheelarches. Light corrosion shouldn't put you off, but extensive amounts of rust will inevitably result in big bills. Keep looking.
Six of the best
Six-cylinder engines are tough and can rack up six-figure mileages easily with good maintenance. Head gaskets should be replaced at 100,000 miles so check if this has been done. While V12 engines are also generally robust, they are not cheap to fix so if you find a troublesome one, move on. They are less DIY-friendly than the 3.4- and 4.2-litre engines too.
Cool running
If you are looking at a fuel injected car, make sure that you hear the engine running up from cold, building it up to correct temperature. If you arrive and the 'helpful' owner already has the engine running, ask him to turn it off and start again when it has cooled down.
Under pressure
Good oil pressure is essential and should be at least 40psi when you start up from cold and not fall below 20psi once it has warmed up. Gauges may not be reliable.
Top gear
Gearboxes - the Rover SD1-derived five-speed manual and a three-speed auto - can be troublesome. Other worthwhile checks are for worn brake discs, noisy timing chains and rear axles, plus fuel hoses on fuel injected cars.
Heat treatment
Make sure the climate control equipment is working properly as this can be another area where you'd have to carefully evaluate the cost of work or replacement.
You wear it well
That 'gentleman's club' feel of the cab interior is wonderful and the leather seats and door trim generally wear well and respond to being looked after, which is good as they can be expensive to retrim. The cost of making a car like this look right can easily exceed that of mechanical considerations.
OUR VERDICT
After early doubts were allayed, the Series III established itself as one of the best Jaguars of all, with the injected 4.2-litre coming out as the pick of the crop. As the Series III was produced in large numbers, the survival rate has been good. If you are interested, don't leap at the first one you see but keep looking until you're sure you have the car you want. In its review of June 1980, Car and Driver magazine described the Series III sa being as 'slick as the inside of Faye Dunaway's dressing gown' - and you can't be fairer than that!
JAGUAR XK140 REVIEW
The epitome of 1950s sophistication, we take a look at the XK140...
Jaguar was keen to build on the success of its revered XK120 and the job of replacing it fell to the XK140, launched in September 1954. While the beautifully flowing lines may have looked familiar, there were plenty of changes under the skin that brought useful improvements. Chief among these was moving the engine forward, which released a crucial few inches of extra legroom in the cabin. Mechanical changes included a more powerful engine, and an improved steering and suspension set-up for sharper handling.
VITAL STATISTICS
Jaguar XK140
Engine 3442cc/6-cyl/DOHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 190bhp@5750rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 213lb ft@4000rpm
Top speed 127mph
0-60mph 11sec
Consumption 21mpg
Gearbox 4-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
Rot is one of the biggest issues with any XK and this model is no exception. Specialists reckon that the lower six inches of bodywork is where most care is needed, and with the potential for huge restoration costs, it pays to be diligent. Problem areas include the headlamp surrounds and front wings, door bottoms, floorpan, boot floor and inner wings.
The sills, particularly around the B-post need checking, as does the A-Frame around the door hinges. The chassis should also come in for close inspection as rot can spread quickly through box sections and chassis rails, and you should also watch for any signs of twisting. Checking for an even gap where the front torsion bar springs run parallel to the chassis will give a good idea of any problems here. Getting a specialist to check over a potential purchase would be money very well spent.
ENGINE
The XK engine is well-proven and fundamentally strong with proper care. Oil leaks are common but rarely prove serious. A check for excessive blue smoke on the over-run will warn of major internal wear. Oil pressure below about 20psi at tickover is a bad sign. Overheating will blow the head gasket and is often caused by a silted-up radiator. Fitment of an electric fan is a popular modification – a healthy cooling system is a must with these engines. You can expect some noise from the tappets and timing chain, but an overhaul beckons if this is excessive. The 210bhp SE model is sought after and adds a useful extra dose of performance.
RUNNING GEAR
The Moss four-speed manual gearbox is a bit slow in operation but otherwise reliable, worn synchromesh being the most likely problem (some owners choose to upgrade to a later five-speed unit). A re-build isn’t cheap, so don’t ignore any issues here – ensure the optional overdrive works if fitted. A three-speed Borg Warner automatic was an option but isn’t hugely popular with buyers.
Changes over the XK120 included telescopic rather than lever arm dampers, and Alford & Adler rack-and-pinion steering instead of the vague recirculating ball arrangement. Neither should give particular trouble, though you need to watch for rot around the front anti-roll bar mountings and the rear spring hangers where they attach to the chassis. Modern poly-bushes in the suspension are a worthwhile upgrade for improved comfort and longevity, and it is worth ensuring that previous owners have kept up the greasing regime.
INTERIOR
Condition is everything when it comes to the cabin of an XK140 as a top quality refurbishment is eye-wateringly expensive. Perhaps more of an issue is aged wiring that not only causes electrical malfunctions but can pose a fire risk too. A complete re-wire is in the region of £2000-2500, but at the very least specialists recommend fitting a battery isolator switch to prevent serious trouble.
OUR VERDICT
Gorgeous to look at and thoroughly accomplished to drive, the XK140 is one of the finest British classics around – at a price! Depending on body style, the very best examples are now comfortably into six figures, which puts them out of reach for all but the well-heeled. Even restoration cases are heading for £30,000 or more. Not a cheap option, but a beautiful classic and a sound investment.
JAGUAR MK I REVIEW
Jaguar’s compact saloon brought prestige motoring to a new audience and it makes a great classic buy.
Jaguar Mk I Review
The steering is heavy yet easy to control via the large wheel but the gearbox needs careful negotiation. Automatics aren’t the smoothest but take some of the challenge out of driving. The ride is generally composed, though leaf-sprung rear can transmit the odd thump over bad ground. The 2.4-litre has the soundtrack if not the pace, but will be fine for most.
Those after more poke will need the extra grunt of the 3.4, but bear in mind the slim rubber before you emulate Sir Stirling and other famous racers. The driving experience is not too dissimilar to the Mk2, but the thick pillars and sumptuous nature somehow make the cars feel a bit more weighty and solid, even though it’s lighter. The drum brakes don’t offer the sharpest stopping experience, and even the discs need a good, hefty shove.
VITAL STATISTICS
Jaguar 3.4
Engine 3442cc/6-cyl/DOHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 210bhp@5500rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 216lb ft@3000rpm
Top speed 120mph
0-60mph 9.1sec
Consumption 16-20mpg
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
Rot in the rear wheelarches and spats is not uncommon and the area immediately behind the rear wheels can suffer badly, so get down on your knees to check thoroughly. The boot floor is well worth inspection, as are the inner wheelarches. Make sure all the brightwork is in good condition too as replacements are not always easy to source.
Check the rear spring hangers and listen out for excessive rear axle noise. They can be costly to rebuild. Some like to upgrade cars to wires, but it’s an involved business requiring many parts to be changed. Cars with wires fitted will command a premium, but they are time consuming to keep clean and can suffer from corrosion. Check all the spokes are firmly in place and not suffering from any visible damage. The 2.4 wears ordinary steel wheels, with the 3.4 having cut-down rear spats to clear the optional centre-lock wire wheels. The 3.4s from 1958-on may well have disc brakes.
Check around the wheelarch for rot and check for excessive play in the steering. The car should feel easy to direct on a test drive and shouldn’t wander. Worn bushes can cause front-end clonks.
Check for sill corrosion and the quality of any repairs. Replacement of a sill could easily cost £2000, or more once paint has been factored in. Open the doors and check the state of the sill tops – bodged repairs are tricky to do without it being obvious. You can inspect the sill end via the wheelarch – although it may not be so easy at the rear due to the spats. Front floorpans can also be a concern, especially if the windscreen seal has been leaking.
ENGINE
Tried and tested twin-cam XK engines provide the power for the MkI. Watch for excessive leaks from the rear crankshaft oil seal (an engine-out job to resolve), blue smoke from the exhaust and any knocking or grumbling from the bottom end. Timing chains can rattle and regular oil changes are essential. Keep an eye on the temperature gauge and check the radiator for cold spots after a run. An electric fan is a sensible upgrade, but not essential if the cooling system is healthy. If a fan is fitted, leave the car at idle and check that it kicks in as it should.
RUNNING GEAR
The MkI’s monocoque construction means restoration can be exceedingly complex and expensive. Start your hunt for rot with the nose – any signs of bubbling around the headlamps or horn-grilles hints at something far worse beneath the surface. The bottom few inches of the wings are particularly vulnerable. Also check the main chassis rails as they head rearwards and the front crossmember.
INTERIOR
Check the seats for damage, splits and sagging, and the wood dashboard for cracks or delamination. Restoring the veneer correctly can be very expensive. Make sure no one has attempted messy repairs. With the seller’s permission, lift out the rear seat base as it gives a good opportunity to check the channels that the rear leaf springs sit in. Even good cars can have issues here. The Moss manual gearbox can be a bit crunchy if you try and hurry it, so take your time. First gear will whine somewhat, but other gears should be relatively quiet. Overdrive is very desirable – make sure it works if fitted. Automatics are not the most refined of kit, but shouldn’t jolt too much or slip in gear.
OUR VERDICT
The MkI has been overlooked for decades, but rarity has driven values up. With 210bhp and a top speed of 120mph, the 3.4 certainly has a lot of performance to offer, but this is a car that is is about much more than sprint times. Most will find the gentle, refined ride quality of much more interest. It’s a great car for wafting around, and is a fantastic choice if you want to set yourself apart from the Mk2 crowd. You’ll struggle to find a bargain, however, and restoration costs can be eye-watering.
JAGUAR XK120 REVIEW
Once little more than a showcase for the XK engine, the stunning XK120 became a sales phenomenon.
The engine that spawned the car is a masterpiece in its own right, but its condition can make or break a purchase deal
As Ian Appleyard’s legendary rallying XK120, NUB 120, proved during the early 1950s, this car was practically born to excel at motorsport, so it’s hardly a surprise to learn how good they are to drive today.
That said, it’s quite a large car, so is hardly fly-nimble, and the relatively ordinary steering, suspension and brakes (and, on unmodified cars, occasionally obstructive Moss gearbox) combine to make the whole driving experience feel very much of an era. Purists may take a very dim view of running gear upgrades, but done sympathetically and using Jaguar parts, they can transform an XK120 into a genuinely enjoyable sports car.
Taller drivers are strongly advised to make sure they can fit behind the steering wheel – the original four-spoker certainly looks the part, but its sheer size does swallow quite a bit of interior space.
You’re guaranteed to forgive the XK120 anything once you get it onto a B-road and open the taps, though. 160bhp might sound meagre today, but back in 1950, it was considered ballistic, and it does emit a truly fabulous snarl when pushed.
VITAL STATISTICS
JAGUAR XK120
Engine 3442cc/6-cyl/DOHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 160bhp@5000rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 195 lb ft@ 2500rpm
Top speed 120mph
0-60mph 9.8sec
Consumption 19.8mpg
Gearbox 4-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
XK120s can be separated out into two distinct variants: the early all-alloy/ash framed cars (the first 242 cars built up to early 1950, all of which were hand-built roadsters); and the later, cars, which retained aluminium doors and bootlid/bonnet panels, but employed pressed steel elsewhere. Given that XK120 production ended in 1954, you’ll be extremely lucky to find a good car that hasn’t been at least part-restored by now, so watch on early cars for rotten or fractured wood frames and evidence of potentially corrosive electrolytic reaction in any areas where steel and aluminium panels meet.
On balance, it’s often preferable to go for a solid car with tired mechanicals, rather than vice versa. Rebuilding the legendary XK engine is hardly cheap, but when you discover that a new door costs £1500, and a wing can set you back by over £2700, it’s clear that the cost of a full body restoration can spiral out of control, especially if it’s entrusted to a marque specialist. More than any other classic car, it’s strongly advisable to buy the very best example you can afford when hunting out an XK120.
Painstaking originality doesn’t have a huge impact on values (apart from within the rarefied circles of concours competition), although very early models with plain wheels and rear arch spats are generally preferred left as originally intended, rather than upgraded with basket wire wheels and removed spats. Returning modified cars back to original spec isn’t particularly difficult, although reversing other popular modifications (bonnet louvres, leather bonnet straps, etc.) can be trickier, and may involve a considerable outlay.
ENGINE
Since the XK120’s six-cylinder engine came into being before the car itself, this is clearly the heart of the matter. Broadly speaking, it’s a strong unit, although it does tend to use oil and isn’t immune to poor cooling. Persistent stalling can often be traced back to something simple, like a blocked petrol tank breather or incorrect valve clearances, while a rattling noise from the bottom of the engine suggests that the timing chain is on its last legs. Since replacement involves removal of the engine, this can be a deal-breaker.
RUNNING GEAR
All XK120s were factory-fitted with the (in)famous Moss gearbox, which was relatively unpopular when new, and doesn’t take kindly to rushed changes. Upgrading to a later, all-synchromesh gearbox is common; the XJ6’s overdrive transmission is a popular choice, although transplanting a Getrag five-speeder is a more straightforward swap, just so long as the ’box comes with an adaptor plate to allow it to marry up with the bellhousing. Budget on £3500 for a reconditioned unit.
Supermodel looks notwithstanding, the XK120’s steering and suspension setup is relatively ordinary, with a torsion bar and telescopic dampers up front, and a leaf-sprung live axle out back allied to lever arm dampers. Steering is recirculating ball. It’s not uncommon for XK120s to be uprated using later XK140 components (telescopic dampers, rack and pinion steering), while specialists can re-build and modify existing steering to eliminate an original design flaw that can cause premature wear.
Half shafts are a known weak point on XK120s, simply because they are so rarely properly maintained or, indeed, replaced. Given enough time and neglect, the oil seal will wear a deep groove in the shaft, which will eventually break it, with inevitable consequences. It’s a similar story with the front stub axle, although eventual failure here on cars with drum brakes can be more serious, as it frequently takes a wheel with it.
OUR VERDICT
Don’t even think about attempting to buy an XK120 on a shoestring budget – remember this was the Bugatti Veyron (albeit a very good value one) of its day, so running costs are likely to be similarly rarefied.
That’s not to say owning one is an impossible dream, however: be prepared to pay for the very best car your bank account can muster and make sure you have a contingency fund on standby for potentially strenuous repairs, and there should be no horror stories waiting for you in future years.
Choose wisely, and you’ll have a piece of genuine iconic motoring history parked in your garage. Every drive will be an exhilarating event, every fuel-stop will make you the centre of attention, and it’s probably about as close to depreciation-proof classic motoring as you’re ever likely to get.
A classic superstar if ever there was one.
The XK120 must surely rate among the most beautiful cars ever made. It’s not especially quick in standard tune, and an unmodified car can prove a challenging handful to the unfamiliar driver, but the sheer drama a sorted example evokes is addictive.
And drama is key to the XK120’s general appeal. Even today, an early roadster (which has a plainer interior and much simpler lightweight soft-top than the later DHC) stands out a mile from the crowd, the deceptive simplicity of its flowing lines bereft of the increasingly heavy-handed jewellery that befell the dynamically superior, but aesthetically fussier XK140 and XK150 DHCs in later years.
It’s also that rarest of classic cars – a true icon. Jaguar founder and design chief William Lyons only ever intended the car to be a short-lived rolling showcase for the new XK engine, so he was genuinely taken aback by the huge interest the car generated at its 1948 London Motor Show debut. Such was its success, in fact, that it took another icon to finally eclipse it – and that car (the E-Type) wasn’t launched until 1961.
JAGUAR XK150 REVIEW
E-type not exclusive enough? Then why not consider the XK150. We explain why they’re such a great choice.
With only its successor the E-type to challenge it, the Jaguar XK150 can lay claim to the title of the greatest post-war production sports car in the world. In their time, they were absolutely without parallel. They have incredible style, a terrific heritage and superb performance – even by the today’s standards. These fine examples of British engineering are also practical too, which is paramount for any old car that’s going to see regular use.
VITAL STATISTICS
1959 XK150 FHC
Engine 3781cc/6-cyl/DOHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 220bhp@5500rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 240lb ft3000rpm
Top speed 136mph
0-60mph 8sec
Consumption 17mpg
Gearbox 4-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
Those long flowing wings and masses of compound curves are a double edged sword – gorgeous to look at, but murder when it comes to restoration. It’s rare to find an example that hasn’t had some form of resto’ work during its lifetime, so your first concern is what’s been done, and to what standard.
A good guide towards the quality of a restoration is to check the ‘waterline’ between front and rear wheels. The front wing, door and rear wing should follow a straight line, without unsightly bulges or dips. Examine the front wings for rust bubbles around the light units, or filler breaking out around the sidelights – they were leaded originally, so should blend seamlessly into the wing itself.
Doors are prone to dropping on their hinges, while the hinge box itself – concealed within the A-post, so not easy to check – is a common rot spot. There should be a ⅜in or so gap between the leading edge and the wing flank when the doors are open. If the doors touching the wing, then the wing may be poorly aligned.
ENGINE
The XK engine’s worst failing is probably its thirst for oil, with consumption of up to a pint every 200 miles being quite normal. Oil leaks are also par for the course – if the rear crank seal is dripping, the engine will have to come out to change it.
Listen for a noisy waterpump, as changing it is a tough job, as the radiator has to be removed to do it. Once warmed up, oil pressure should be around 40psi at 300rpm, dropping to 20psi at idle. Keep an eye on the temperature gauge too, as cooling was marginal even when new – an electric fan is considered a must these days.
RUNNING GEAR
Thanks to rack-and-pinion steering, an XK150 should steer precisely, but if there is any slop on the move, then check for tired or torn rubber rack mountings, as well as play in the bushes where the trackrods exit from the rack tube. The latter can be felt by grabbing each trackrod around its rubber gaiter and pulling it forwards and backwards. Worn front suspension bushes are another common issue, so check them for signs of perishing and oil contamination.
XK150s have disc brakes all round. Fit 16in wheels if possible, although some cars end up with 15in E-type rims, due to smaller tyres being cheaper – decide whether originality or practicality is of most importance to you.
INTERIOR
XK150s had simple leather covered facias as standard, while the seats were also trimmed in leather, but Vynide or Rexine substitutes were used on other panels. Trim kits are available for the keen DIY enthusiast, but variations between individual cars means they often need work to achieve a respectable fit.
Hoods can also be bothersome, due to the various frames and patterns used during production, so are best made to suit particular cars.
OUR VERDICT
Last of the legendary range of XK sports cars, the 150 remained true to the formula on which Jaguar built a dynasty. A 150S with 3.8-litre engine and triple-carb head effectively offered the same spec as an early E-type, but with the added bonus of that art deco style bodywork. Its character was more comfortable than ever though, seemingly content to fulfil the role of grand tourer – if long distance cruising with a generous dash of panache is your requirement, you won’t go far wrong with an XK150.