JAGUAR XJ6 SERIES 1 REVIEW

The XJ6 marked a new start for Jaguar and for years this landmark car has been in the doldrums. But word is now out; the earliest of the breed is a great car that’s becoming increasingly collectible.

Good enough to be crowned Car of the Year in 1969, the XJ6 marked the start of a new era for Jaguar when it arrived in October 1968 to replace the S-type, 420, 420G and 240/340. While this one-model policy could have decimated Jaguar’s sales, it did the opposite, the new car instantly making its predecessors look dated. While those previous cars from Jaguar were hardly lacking in luxury, refinement or comfort, this new model raised the bar to a level that most rivals never really matched.

Despite the XJ’s astonishing range and depth of talent, much was carried over from the old models, including the XK six-cylinder engines, rear suspension and transmissions. In 1969 a Daimler version was introduced, badged Sovereign and identical to the XJ6 in every way apart from the badging. The Series II replaced the Series I in 1974, after more than 98,000 examples had been produced.

Now, if you can find a good Series 1 you’ll be rewarded with one of the most relaxing driving experiences available anywhere. Nowhere is the old adage of Grace, Space and Pace more applicable than here; all three are offered in abundance. Prices have started to climb sharply for the few really good cars left, but it’s the usual story; digging deep for one of these (if you can find one) will invariably cost rather less in the long term than by buying a project and reviving it properly.

If buying a project the costs can quickly escalate; the bodywork is most costly to revive while the trim can also be alarmingly expensive to sort. But at least most minor mechanical maladies are relatively easy and cheap to fix, especially if you can do the work yourself. You’ll spend more restoring an XJ than an equivalent-condition E-Type, yet the finished item will be worth far less – which is one reason why most people take the E-Type route. Problem is, those aren’t much good for family motoring – whereas the XJ is more comfortable than anything else at just about any price.

 

VITAL STATISTICS

Jaguar XJ6 S1 (4.2-litre)

Engine           4235cc/6-cyl/DOHC

Power          173bhp@4750rpm

Torque          227lb ft@3000rpm

Top speed     124mph

0-50mph       8.8sec

Economy       15-19mpg

Gearbox         4-spd man/3-spd auto

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Spot the rot

Rotten and bodged cars are the norm, so analyse all of the bodywork meticulously. Key rot areas include the bottoms of the A, B and C-posts along with the sills, rear wheelarches and valances. Also scrutinise the spare wheel well, door bottoms, rear radius arm mounts and the arms themselves, the screen surrounds and the bonnet hinge mounting points. The bonnet can also corrode, as can the boot lid, wings around the headlights plus the various jacking points; check all these areas very carefully for filler. The radiator support frame also dissolves; if left to fester, rust then eats into the front chassis structure. Front subframes also rot badly; expect to pay around £2000 for a specialist to supply and fit a used subframe.

 

Make sure it’s been serviced

Offered in 2.8 and 4.2-litre guises, the XK engine needs regular maintenance or its life will be much reduced. Look for a service history, make sure the engine doesn’t sound hollow or rattly and ensure the oil is clean; walk away if it’s like tar. The key is to budget for a rebuild as soon as the engine is showing signs of wear; delay things and the bills will quickly mount, especially if something ends up breaking. The XK engine has a cast-iron block and alloy cylinder head. Because of the latter, anti-freeze levels must be maintained or internal corrosion is guaranteed. Even a well-maintained engine will need a fresh radiator every 5-10 years depending on use, so you may need to budget for this at £220 plus fitting.

 

Beware the oily underside

Look at how much oil is on the car’s underside, as the rear crankshaft oil seal can fail. Once this has happened the engine needs a complete rebuild; a specialist will charge £4000 for the privilege or you could do the work yourself for upwards of £600 – but it’s an involved job.

 

Sniff out transmission woes

Some XJ6s have a manual transmission, others feature a Borg Warner unit which can suffer from jerky changes, even in good condition. Inspect the fluid for colour, level and condition. If it’s black and smells foul, a £1000 rebuild is on the cards. The manual gearbox is strong and most such transmissions were supplied with overdrive. If this seems slow to engage it’s probably because the oil needs changing or has fallen below the ideal level; wear is unusual. Differentials are tough, but can leak oil all over the in-board rear brake discs; repairs are at least £1200. The seal often leaks because the brakes have overheated, so you might need to rebuild the brakes as well.

 

Bush craft

Tired suspension and rear subframe bushes are common, so check they’ve not split; worn front tyres point to perished bushes in the front suspension, which knocks the geometry out. There are a lot of bushes throughout the car, and if they all need renewing, the bill could be massive. Also analyse the dampers for leaks; replacements cost from £30 apiece. The handbrake is frequently poorly maintained; it has its own callipers and pads, which can seize up. Make sure the car can be held on a hill, using just the handbrake, as fixing this can be a pain.

 

A dash of comfort

Much of the XJ’s appeal lies in its cabin, which is as luxurious an interior as you’ll find. A tatty interior costs big money to fix, especially if the carpets and wood trim are tired; the potential for expenditure into the thousands shouldn’t be underestimated.

 

OUR VERDICT

Years of low values have led to many Series 1s being neglected or broken for parts, which is why you’ll have your work cut out finding a good one. But with few classics offering the same level of luxury and arguably none able to match the XJ6 for comfort, it’s worth taking your time to find something really good.

JAGUAR XK8 & XKR REVIEW

When brand new, Jaguar’s big cat cost £47,950. These days, even good examples cost peanuts. We assess the pros and cons of ownership.

The first thing you notice wonderful noise from the quad-cam 42 valve V8 engine. All 290bhp is put through the rear wheels, and the big engine makes it handle like a car should. Plenty of tail-out action is on the cards and the auto ‘box is a bit of a hindrance for this sort of driving, but comes into its own when you point it down a long, empty stretch of road. 

The XK8 is a grand tourer like no other. Cruising is effortless, the cabin quiet and hugely luxurious, albeit not roomy. There is a noticeable lack of space in the cabin, in particular the rear seats, where there is no legroom at all if the person in the front is over 6ft. On the plus side this space seems to have been taken up by the cavernous boot 

The real downside is the high fuel consumption. You may get 28mpg at a push, but more likely 19-20mpg. Despite the huge power output, the
XK8 is most comfortable in everyday driving. The ride is as smooth as any you’ll find, the drive as involving as you want it to be.


VITAL STATISTICS

JAGUAR XK8

Engine                                    3996cc/V8/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  290bhp@6100rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 290lb ft@4250rpm

Top speed                                156mph      

0-60mph                                   6.4sec

Consumption                           21mpg


WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Rust can be a serious issue, as it’s not always visible. Front floor pans were poorly rust-proofed, so lift the carpets and check for any signs of rot. Do the same with the boot liner, but be sure to check thoroughly, lifting sound deadening as well. Pay attention to where the battery tray is welded to the floor. Check both front and rear arches, being sure to look behind the plastic liners, which can disguise serious rust. Rear wheelarch liners cover a shelf that can trap dirt and allow rot to set in. Be sure to poke and prod the front sill. Also give the rear bumper a push and pull; any movement indicates that the metal guides it is attached to are probably rusted through – a new bumper won’t fix the problem. Open the bonnet and check the bottom of the windscreen for signs of rust. Lift any plastic trim to see what’s beneath, and check drain holes are clear. Be wary of cars that have been left under trees, where leaves may block drain holes. 

ENGINE

Nikasil was used by Jaguar as a cylinder lining in the mid-1990s. It has many desirable properties, but, unfortunately, disintegrates when it comes into contact with sulphur, an ingredient of petrol. If the engine is pre-2000 then it has Nikasil lined cylinders, and if there isn’t documentation to prove recall and repair, then walk away. It may be fine, but chances are the damage will already have been done. A lumpy idle is indicative of bore wear due to Nikasil degradation. 

Post-2000 cars should be safe, as the sulphur content of UK petrol dropped dramatically and Nikasil was dropped in favour of steel. Jaguar dealers can test for premature engine wear in Nikasil engines. Pre-2000 replacement engines will have a small tag to the nearside of the engine block. If this is missing, it’s on its original engine. 

Start the engine from cold and listen for rattling from the cam chain. Many early cars were fitted with defective tensioners, which may result in a loose cam chain over time. The loose chain may jump teeth, causing the car to run rough, or worse, completely self-destruct. Ensure there is evidence in the history file that the tensioner has been updated to a later version, and that the chain has been changed in higher mileage examples. Check the oil filler cap for mayonnaise, and the coolant reservoir for signs of oil. Both indicate a blown headgasket, which requires an engine re-build. Check for white smoke from the tailpipe when revved, which will suggest engine wear that also requires a re-build. 

RUNNING GEAR

All-round build quality can be patchy, particularly the mechanics. The five-speed automatic gearbox is described as being ‘sealed for life’, making it hard to check the oil level or top it up. This can result in failure after just 10 years. Check the service history for evidence the gearbox oil has been changed in line with the mileage. Listen for unusual clunking or whining with each gear change, it may suggest the gearbox is on its way out. The XKR is fitted with a much more robust Mercedes-Benz gearbox, which is easier to service and less prone to failure.

Inspect the tyres all round, paying particular attention to the front pair. Any uneven wear may indicate failure of the wishbone bushes, which will cause steering problems. Steering should be crisp, precise and light; anything less and repairs may be on the cards. Wishbone bushes start to go at around 20,000 miles. Once again, make sure that there are records for replacement in the history file. 


OUR VERDICT

Perhaps the best-looking Jaguar since the XJ220, the XK8 used tried and tested design cues that were first employed on the Aston Martin DB7. 

Stunning looks combined with awesome performance from the 290bhp V8 engine make the XK8 an attractive proposition for long distance touring. If a 0-60 time of 6.4 seconds still isn’t quite fast enough for you, then there’s always the XKR, the XK8’s supercharged big brother, that puts out an incredible 390bhp. 

Both cars have suffered massive depreciation over the years, largely a result of a reputation for poor build quality, huge maintenance costs, and a thirst that would impress George Best. Despite the shady reputation, both cars still look like a million dollars – there are few other ways to look quite so successful, or quite so savvy, for less than £4000. A bona fide modern classic, there is something about this big cat that exudes style and charisma as much today as it did on its release 16 years ago.  

By now all of the common faults will have come to the fore, so it is fairly easy to find a brilliant example providing you take care. Buying with your head and not your heart is imperative. Do your research, go prepared with a checklist, and stick rigidly to it. Only consider buying a car with no faults, as even minor issues can be costly to put right. Most problems are beyond the realms of the casual mechanic, and though there are plenty of independent specialists, costs will be high. 

Fortunately, there is no shortage of cars for sale. Prices are lower than ever, creating a buyer’s market. As long as you know what to look for you have every chance of getting a top class motor for bargain basement money. But remember: if it isn’t perfect, don’t buy it.

JENSEN 541 REVIEW

The Jensen 541 was stylish and innovative. We uncover the appeal of this delightful British classic.

The first thing to strike you when you settle behind the 541’s wheel is the simplicity of the interior.  There are enough dials to keep you informed but everything is easily visible and switches are within easy reach. It’s comfortable too, and many owners are happy to cover substantial mileages without complaint.  The fact that it is hard wearing is an added bonus.

A properly sorted example should start easily and settle to a steady tickover, so be wary of a rough-running car. Out on the road, the torquey Austin lump makes for relaxed progress but the 541 was pretty rapid for its time, with a top speed of over 120mph in higher states of tune helped by the smooth bodywork.

You won’t keep up with a modern car on a twisty road but the Jensen is safe and surefooted, while those standard disc brakes inspire confidence. The simple and proven mechanicals mean the 541 may not have been at the cutting edge of technology but if you are looking for a British GT that can act as a sports car when required, it’s well worth considering.


VITAL STATISTICS

1954 JENSEN 541

Engine                                    3993cc/6-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  130bhp@3700rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 209lb ft@2200rpm

Top speed                                116mph

0-60mph                                  10.6sec

Consumption                            21mpg 


WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

The body is mostly GRP, but while rust isn’t an issue, it does need checking for signs of stress cracks, crazing, and bodged repairs. The door skins are aluminium and need checking for signs of bimetallic corrosion where they meet the steel door skin. Another area worth checking is the pivoting flap that acts as the radiator grille. This is a simple cable-operated affair controlled by a lever in the cabin, but you’ll want to ensure it moves freely since it manages engine cooling. 

Rot can set-in around the boot-mounted battery tray, and around the shackles for the rear leaf springs. Check the chassis tubes beneath the sills, and take a good look at the marine ply/aluminium sandwich floorpan which can harbour rot. It pays to spend plenty of time checking the chassis of a potential purchase though should it be too far gone, new chassis are available. That said, you’ll need to budget around £8000, so negotiate the asking price accordingly.

 

ENGINE

 

The 4.0-litre straight six Austin engine started out as a truck engine and is generally bullet-proof given proper maintenance. In fact, comfortably over 100,000 miles is often possible before major work is needed so quiz the previous owner about their maintenance regime. Cooling systems can weaken and blow the head gasket – check for oil or water leaks, or any signs that the two fluids are mixing. Oil leaks are an occasional problem but rarely serious. Standard ‘DS5’ engines had three SU carburettors, the ‘DS7’ unit fitted to ‘R’ models just two, though there is little to choose between them for longevity.

 

RUNNING GEAR

Manual gearboxes are either a four-speed Austin unit with overdrive, or a four-speed Moss. Each is fairly slow, but robust – any whines or rumbles means problems. The rarer GM automatic is tough, but will cost £2000 to recondition. Clutches and rear axles shouldn’t give any problems, but replacements are easy to source.

The front suspension uses lever-arm dampers and is derived from the Austin Cambridge, so parts availability is good. Likewise the rear leaf springs. There are plenty of greasing points that need regular attention so ensure this has been done. Stiffness in the steering (early cars used a cam and roller set-up, ‘R’ models rack and pinion) could mean the king pins haven’t received the required 1000-mile lubrication.

 

BRAKES

The 541 was the first British four-seater to use Dunlop disc brakes all round, and apart from a tendency among sparingly-used cars for the pistons to seize, shouldn’t give any trouble. Unusually, vacuum pressure for the Lockheed servo system was stored inside the left-hand chassis tube, so weak brakes could be a sign that rotten chassis tubing is allowing air to escape.  A ‘Coopercraft’ brake upgrade is a popular addition and further improves efficiency; consider it a bonus if this has already been done on a given car. 


INTERIOR

Interiors are simple, robust and trimmed in vinyl, leather, or a combination of the two.  There is little to watch for apart from normal wear and tear, but avoid any that are very tatty or incomplete. Items such as replacement switches are hard to come by and will mean a likely extensive and time-consuming hunt for second-hand parts. It will be cheaper in the long-run to find one in good condition to begin with than to restore a tired example


OUR VERDICT

When you consider the ingredients – a great British marque, a stylish yet robust four-seater sports car and a dash of innovation – it is hard to see why you wouldn’t want a Jensen 541.

With an incredibly thick GRP body, simple steel tube chassis and proven mechanicals, the 541 is a reliable and comfortable classic car. Resisting the temptation to make a complex car with specialist underpinnings, Jensen created a car that, almost 50 years on, still doesn’t break the bank.

Like any British classic of the period, there are things to consider before taking the plunge, but there are fewer pitfalls than you might expect of a car of this vintage.  Which makes it a very tempting ownership proposition. The thriving JensenOwners Club and plenty of specialist support available seals the deal as far as the lovely 541 is concerned.  If it is a Jensen you want but are put off by the complexity and thirst of the Interceptor, the quintessentially British 541 is well worth a closer look.

A 541, well-sorted, makes a glamourous and reliable car. There are areas that need careful checking, but while a substantial restoration isn’t too scary a prospect, you shouldn’t spend too much on an example that needs fettling. Buy the best you can find and enjoy that film-star feeling.

JENSEN CV8 REVIEW

Launched in 1962, the C-V8 was a ‘shock and awe’ makeover of the 541, featuring more than 300bhp of American muscle and slightly gaudy looks. A beefier chassis for 1963’s MkII boasted Selectaride dampers, while equal-sized headlamps and a walnut dashboard identify the MkIII of 1965/6. Only 499 C-V8s were built and values have struggled until recently.

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

Glassfibre bodywork should be reassuring, but be very wary. Underneath the rust-free outer skin there’s a beefy tubular chassis and
a lot of steel beneath the scuttle. The sills, hidden behind the glassfibre, are prone to corrosion too. Repairs are best done with the body removed. The floor is steel, so it’s very important to check it thoroughly, including both front and rear footwells. Watch out for cracks, starbursts and any clumsily applied filler trying to mask an issue. Glassfibre isn’t too bad to work with if you know what you are doing. Door skins are aluminium, so check for paint peeling and oxidisation. Stainless steel bumpers are available for the MkI and MkII, but not for the MkIII currently. Trim is hard to find.

ENGINE & GEARBOX

The tough Chrysler V8 should be OK, but rebuilds can get expensive and questionable modifications are a worry. None of them is in the first flush of youth, so watch for blue exhaust smoke, tappety top ends and bottom-end knocks. They can run hot, and watch for bowed and leaking thermostat housings. Don’t be surprised if an electric fan has been installed, though it shouldn’t try to run all the time. These days, original numbers are desirable. Check Richard Calver’s book Jensen: the chassis data to see what each car should have. Listen out for exhaust leaks, especially manifolds. Chrysler’s Torqueflite transmission should be smooth and jolt-free. A handful of MkIII manuals were built, but some manual conversions have since taken place. Listen out for excessive rear axle noise – they give fair warning that a rebuild is due. 

RUNNING GEAR

The Dunlop disc brakes have a lot of performance to rein in, so make sure that they’re up to the job. Pulling to one side could indicate a seized caliper, but rebuild parts are readily available. Power steering was never fitted from new, but many have been retrofitted more recently. Wheels can shatter, so keep an eye for stress cracks, and get them crack-tested between tyre changes. 

INTERIOR AND ELECTRICS

If you need to overhaul it, refurbing the plush interior can rapidly overtake how much it costs to fuel it and can also be a tricky space in which to work. Water ingress needs to be watched for as it’ll soon rot stitching, carpets and floors if not kept at bay. Electrics tend to be reliable, so a quick operational check is all that’s required. Electrics suffer less than most GRP cars’ poor earthing. MkI has a handle on the bonnet, and MkIII can be easily identified by its equal-sized headlamps. The remainder with unequal lamps and a flap on the bonnet are MkIIs.

 

OUR VERDICT
If you are a fan of raw power, the unfussy manner in which this beefy V8 propels you down the road will have you handing over the readies in no time. Yes, it’s rather thirsty, but try finding a 1960s sports car that isn’t. A healthy C-V8 beats the performance levels of an E-type, seats four comfortably, and is far more exclusive!

JENSEN INTERCEPTOR FF 4-WHEEL DRIVE REVIEW

Launched in London at the 1966 Motor Show, the Jensen Interceptor marked a significant change in styling from previous models, with coachwork designed by Vignale in Italy. Continuing to be hand-built, the bodywork was now in steel, with a large parallel-tube chassis, using a live leaf-sprung rear axle and Panhard rod, all-round disc brakes and independent wishbone and coil sprung front suspension. This high performance coupe had around 280bhp (DIN) on tap from Chrysler's 6276cc V8, with their Torqueflite automatic transmission as standard equipment for the Interceptor model. Any sixties car achieving 100mph in under 20 seconds was regarded as a performance car, The Motor recording the Interceptor's top speed at 140mph, with 100mph coming up in just 19 seconds. The prestigious 'FF' was nearly 50% more expensive than the standard Jensen Interceptor, and is identified by the twin side grilles on the front wings. Available only with automatic transmission, the 'FF' featured the 'Ferguson Formula' four wheel drive system, and included the revolutionary Dunlop 'Maxeret' anti-skid braking system, which combined to produce a supercar over ten years ahead of its time.

JENSEN INTERCEPTOR REVIEW

Quality. Class. Style. We discover the advantages of bagging the desirable and glamorous hand-made Jensen Interceptor...

Sit at the wheel of a MkI and you can’t help but be struck by how Italian the interior of the Interceptor is. There is a jet-set feel to the whole thing thanks to the toggle switches and rows of dials and circular air vents. In fact, it feels more like an aircraft than a car.

As beautiful as it is the MkI’s interior is also hard wearing thanks to the vinyl covering the GRP dashboard and transmission tunnel. MkIIs and IIIs changed to a less glamorous moulding, though it is apparently safer. 

An Interceptor should bark into life, from cold, after a twist of the key and one prod of the throttle. If it doesn’t start easily, leave that car alone. Once moving you’ll be blown away by the addictive noise and colossal ability of this mid-1960s GT: imagine a 0-60 time of 6-7 seconds in a car from the late 1960s or early 1970s, when most traffic couldn’t crack the ton. These Jensens are just getting into their stride at the legal limit, so you have to watch your driving licence as well as the fuel gauge. 


VITAL STATISTICS

JENSEN INTERCEPTOR - MKII

Engine                                    6286cc/v8/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  325bhp@4600rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 425lb ft@2800rpm

Top speed                                137mph

0-60mph                                  6.4sec

Consumption                            13mpg


WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Rust can be a major issue. It is at its most virulent around the edges of the front wings, sills, on the wheels and around the side vents behind the front wheels. Also carefully check the inner rear and front wings. Bonnets can go along their edges and doors are vulnerable all along the bottom of the frame. If there is fresh paintwork carefully inspect the quality of metalwork repairs or ask to see a photographic record of the resto work.

ENGINE

The Interceptor’s Chrysler engine produces extremely high temperatures which can be made worse by poor engine-bay ventilation. This excess heat can perish tubes and pipes. Pay particularly careful attention to electrical wiring which tends to suffer the most in the Interceptor’s inhospitable engine bay. Standard fans are just about up to the cooling job, but only if they are in good nick. 

Be on the lookout for signs of general engine wear, and check the condition of the oil feed pipes between the engine and the filter which may have been strained by engine movement. On start-up listen for rattling bearings and hydraulic lifter noise which could indicate that the engine is in need of some attention.

RUNNING GEAR

The Chrysler Torqueflite automatic gearbox was effortless and highly rated in its day. It’s also tough so even now it isn’t the cause of too many Interceptorissues. That said it is still worth checking as a rebuild will set you back about £1200. 

Oil leaks are fairly common and shouldn’t be a major issue if addressed. General maintenance consists of changing the oil and filter, plus adjusting the clutch bands. If this has been done regularly the gearbox should run smoothly and remain trouble-free. 

If the car has been used sparingly condensation can form in the gearbox which causes brake bands to separate from backings and will eventually lead to loss of drive when the car is pressed. Check the colour of the gear oil – it should be clear red, not pink or burned dark. Check the stall speed as part of your buying inspection – the engine should sit at 1800-2000rpm.

 

BRAKES

Disc corrosion is a problem with cars that don’t see much use – check for dark spots on the surface of the discs which are a sign that brake efficiency is on the wane. Twin-master cylinders can sometimes have fluid-balance problems and you’ll want to make sure the fluid’s been changed regularly.

The weight of the V8 engine can causefront suspension wear. Bushes, springs and pivots can deteriorate and rear springs can sag, but the suspension is easy to work on, save for the weight of the hefty components. Parts can be sourced new, or used through members of the Jensen Owners Club.


INTERIOR

A tatty Interceptor interior won’t be cheap to refurbish. The seats wear well, but should they need remedial work a high quality repair job could set you back £1000, while a complete new interior could cost up to £5000. Carpets are relatively cheap. 


OUR VERDICT

Who wouldn’t want a Jensen Interceptor? It’s the best-value glam GT car, it’s hand built and it’s rare. Your friends and family will love its exclusivity and the Jensen Owners Club is one of the friendliest around. Better still the power steering and auto gearbox make an Interceptor usable as a daily driver. 

The engineering is simple which means only the most complicated jobs need placing with a specialist. It’s also worth considering how, if you’d bought one five years ago, you’d stand to have turned a profit during your ownership, helping offset the thirst for fuel. And it’s that fuel consumption question that might stop you owning an Interceptor. 

The flipside? Shattering performance, although the choice between a Sunday drive in the Jensen, or using a more frugal car and actually having money left for a good lunch is a tough one. 

Most telling? In period, the Jensen workers knew they were making a more stylish competitor car to compete against the Rolls-Royce Silver Shadow.

The Interceptor is a luxury powerhouse that is quiet and comfortable in normal driving conditions. Combine this with classic styling and an elegant interior and the Interceptor is a great buy. As ever the real trick is to find a good one.

Beware cheap bargain-basement Interceptors that need work. A restoration will likely cost you more money than simply buying a good one in the first place.

If you plan on using this comfortable cruiser to cover any sort of serious mileage the fuel costs will be astronomical. Use a nice one sparingly and you’ll have a genuine handmade classic with star appeal and the potential of rewarding diligent ownership with continually rising values.

JENSEN-HEALEY REVIEW

It has good looks and strong performance but what is it like to buy?

The first thing you notice as you slide behind the wheel is the space and comfort on offer in the Healey’s cabin. For a car whose cabin is often referred to as austere, the dash is acutally well-stocked with dials and all the minor controls are within easy reach. The driving position is sound, too, with a good relationship between the major controls. 

On the move, the punchy Lotus-developed twin cam engine musters considerable performance; you’re unlikely to find yourself wanting for pace. It’s no shrinking violet, either – this car is properly loud when you put the hammer down – and the gearchange is beautifully snick-snick.

The handling – immediate and nippy – is not unlike that of an MGB. Firmer, perhaps, and the car feels bigger around you, but there’s no doubt that this is a sports car, not least when you discover just how low down in the car you really sit.

The intake rasp from the twin-carb ‘four’ adds to the character when you give the engine a few revs, something you’ll be more than happy to do given its characterful nature. 

The unassisted steering lightens up nicely once you’re rolling, the brakes are more than up to the performance, and the ride is such that it’s as able a grand tourer as it is a feisty B-road blaster. It’s rigid and rattle-free – or at least should be – so keep that in mind when assessing a prospective purchase.

And of course, the Jensen-Healey is all about the fresh-air, hood-down experience. The packaway hood is slightly more complex to take down than some (but it’s no worse than an early MGB Roadster) and while the engine likes to remind you what’s going on when you’re pressing on, flicking in the overdrive soon quietens things down. In fact, the cabin is a suprisingly quiet, buffetting-free place to be, roof-down.

Thank Donald Healey; this is a proper British sports car offering plenty of creature comforts for longer drives, but lots of character and engaging performance when you’re in the mood.


VITAL STATISTICS

1974 JENSEN-HEALEY

Engine                                    1973cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  144bhp@6500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 134lb ft@5000rpm

Top speed                                119mph

0-60mph                                  7.8sec

Consumption                            23mpg

Gearbox                                    4/5-spd manual


WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

You need to be vigilant when inspecting a Healey, as rot can strike just about anywhere within the steel monocoque. At particular risk are the sills, which rot from the inside out and replacing them requires removal of both front and rear wings, so it won’t be a cheap job. The wings themselves rot too, so check at the bottom where they meet the sill, the mounting points and around the headlamps at the front, and check the rear wings from inside the boot as rust often starts here. 

The usual problem areas such as doors, wheel arches, and bonnet/boot lid will also need careful examination – as will the floors – and pay special attention to the front chassis legs. These can be tricky to repair and the engine and gearbox may need to come out if things are particularly bad. Eradicating all traces of corrosion from a Healey will be time-consuming and expensive while some panels – such as replacement bonnets – are getting hard to find.

ENGINE

The Lotus-derived twin cam engine might be characterful, but Mark 1 models gained a reputation for trouble. Oil leaks were a particular issue (cam cover leaks are almost impossible to cure, even now) and Mark 2 models from 1973 got a stiffer block casting to alleviate the problem. Neglecting the all-alloy unit will cause the most problems so look for a detailed maintenance record, and be alert for any signs of overheating or coolant loss. Regular cambelt changes are absolutely critical too.

Twin Dellorto carburettors take care of the fuelling and throttle response should be excellent, so check for any flat spots or hesitation during the road-test. The carbs could be in need of a re-build or just need setting up properly, neither of which are especially costly. Rumbling from the bottom end of the engine signifies an imminent rebuild – and bigger bills – and you can expect 80-100,00 miles from a well-maintained engine before an overhaul is needed.

RUNNING GEAR

The four-speed manual gearbox (a Sunbeam unit, also used in the Rapier) fitted to earlier cars was considered a bit weak for the power on offer, so check for excessive noise and jumping out of gear. A stronger Getrag five-speeder was offered towards the end of 1974 (and not as part of the 1973 update, as many think). Mark 2 models could be four- or five-speed, although only around 180 right-hand cars were equipped with the latter. The Salisbury rear axle is strong, but expect a bit of noise – though it rarely leads to failure – while driveline vibrations are likely to be caused by nothing more sinister than worn propshaft joints.

BRAKES

Vauxhall Viva HC steering and suspension components are used and neither should prove troublesome if regularly fettled. General wear such as tired bushes and worn dampers are issues and watch for corroded rear lower trailing arms. Many parts are available for overhaul. The disc/drum brake set-up is reliable, but it’s worth checking for seized adjusters at the rear on little-used examples. Examine the alloy wheels for signs of damage or excessive corrosion as well – budget upwards of £70 per corner for quality refurbishment.


INTERIOR

Some interior trim parts are getting scarce, and while re-trimmers can sort tired seats or carpets, it’s worth avoiding anything too decrepit. Watch for signs of water leaks that might have allowed rust to take hold, and check the condition of the hood, as a good quality replacement is likely to be pricey.


OUR VERDICT

In a word: Cool. In two words: Sub Zero. In three words: You need one. 

The Jensen-Healey may be a rare beast, but just like the best steaks, rare is the way you want a sports car. 

JOWETT JAVELIN REVIEW

The Javelin – built from 1947 to 1953 – is an ideal candidate if you’re looking for an elegant classic that stands out from the crowd.

Open the rear-hinged door, slide onto the bench seat, and you’re faced with a large metal-spoked steering wheel and simple dash. And simplicity is a watchword for the lovely Javelin – there’s nothing complicated in the cabin and all the controls fall easily to hand, which means you can just enjoy the driving experience. It really is enjoyable, too: the flat-four thrums away steadily, the gearlever snicks easily into place, and ample performance is on tap. The Javelin rides and handles tidily thanks to a long wheelbase and torsion bar springing, while accurate steering and easily-modulated brakes make this a delightful car to punt down your favourite B-roads. Space may be quite tight for larger drivers, but at least your passengers will be comfortable, and if you’re looking for an interesting daily driver that’s more than capable of tackling lengthy excursions this fine saloon could be the perfect classic for you. Buy now before the market wakes up to its charms.


VITAL STATISTICS

Jowett Javelin

Engine                                    1486cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  50bhp@4500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 77lb ft@2600rpm

Top speed                                78mph

0-60mph                                  22.2sec

Consumption                            32mpg 


WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Not surprisingly for a car of this age, rust can be a major problem, so examine the steel bodywork carefully. Areas particularly at risk include the leading and trailing edges of the front and rear wings, around the headlamps, the sills, the door bottoms (caused by blocked drain holes) and the boot floor. Also check the door pillars thoroughly. Any bubbling needs further investigation, but the good news is that many panels are available from the owners’ club. Exterior trim is available too, but check it’s complete and in good condition – particularly the grille, which has a hinged top half giving access to the fluid filler pipes.

Take a good look underneath – although built from good quality steel, the separate chassis is susceptible to corrosion. Check the outriggers, jacking points and chassis extensions beneath the boot, and pay particular attention to the mounting points for the front and rear torsion bars and the rear axle link arms. Cracks can also form around the mounting points for the front torsion bars and around the bracket at the rear of the steering box – the latter is very hard to spot unless the car is on a ramp. Lift the base of the rear seat and check the suspension mountings and floor – repairs here are tricky and can incur hefty labour costs. The club can supply repair sections, so it’s not a major problem as long as the rot hasn’t spread too far.

ENGINE

The flat-four engine was innovative for 1947 and early cars suffered broken crankshafts and blown cylinder head gaskets, though these should have been sorted out many years ago. The motor is buried deep inside the engine bay, so checking for oil leaks is tricky but worth doing. The top-mounted radiator makes checking the cooling system easy; it needs the correct concentration of antifreeze to avoid crankcase corrosion, so ensure it’s not plain water. Check for excessive oil smoke from the exhaust, caused by splits or failed seals in a metal vacuum pipe that balances the carburettors – it passes through the crankcase and oil can be drawn in and burnt. Overall reliability should be good as long as the car has been well maintained, so quiz the owner about the maintenance regime. If the engine has been rebuilt ensure it was done by a reputable specialist – assembly calls for experience, and poorly fitted cylinder liners will cause a host of problems.

ELECTRICS

The top-model 300SE and 300SEL had air suspension, which was high-tech stuff for the early 1960s. The ride it gives is quite remarkable, but problems can be very expensive indeed to fix, and parts are not plentiful. Buy an air-sprung Fintail with your eyes wide open, and have the phone numbers of a specialist and your bank manager close at hand.

RUNNING GEAR

Problems afflicted the Jowett-made four-speed manual gearbox that replaced the Meadows ’box of early Javelins, but any problems should have been sorted out by now. The column change should be slick in operation – investigate further if it’s not, though all parts are available if it needs to be reconditioned. Also listen out on your test drive for clunks from worn propshaft joints. The Salisbury rear axle is considered bulletproof. 

BRAKES

Early models had hydraulic front brakes and mechanically operated rears, with hydraulics all-round from 1950. Neither set-up is prone to problems as long it’s been maintained properly, and an overhaul is an inexpensive DIY job. The steering rarely gives problems, so it’s just a case of checking for excessive play during the test drive; the same applies to the suspension. A host of greasing points need regular attention, so examine them for evidence of recent lubrication. Worn joints and bushes are likely to be the extent of any issues (rust in spring mounts aside). The club can supply everything you need for an overhaul, so don’t worry if things feel a little tired.


INTERIOR

Interior trim and fittings in need of renovation are easy to spot. De Luxe models came with a wooden dash and leather seats – bear in mind the cost if they need extensive refurbishment. This needn’t be a deal-breaker, though, as parts aren’t as rare as you might fear. Chromed parts can also be difficult to come by, so ensure that they are all present and correct. Tarnished chrome can be repaired with relative ease, but heavily pitted and damaged components may be beyond repair. 


OUR VERDICT

The Javelin was an interesting and innovative car when it was new, and more than 60 years later it’s a fascinating slice of British motoring history. Solid construction and reliable running gear make it a tempting choice for newcomers and experienced classic owners alike. The owners’ club has worked hard to secure an impressive parts supply, with plenty of components being re-manufactured, so keeping one on the road is relatively straightforward.

JOWETT JUPITER REVIEW

The two-seater Jowett Jupiter was designed for two conflicting requirements. It was intended as a comfortable well-appointed touring car as well a car to go racing. Its big bore tubular chassis was designed by Professor Eberan-Eberhorst while at ERA; he was also responsible for the DB3 chassis. With rack and pinion steering and using the same suspension as the Javelin, and with the engine developed to over 60bhp, the Jupiter emerged as a lively comfortable car with advanced handling for its day. It had many successes in production car events including three Le Mans wins and the outright win of the 1951 Lisbon International Rally. The Jowett Jupiter chassis is made from a low-rusting steel with the eye-catching all-enveloping bodywork aluminium, and as the car was hand-made it has become a favourite for restorers; the survival rate is over 50% of the 901 cars built between 1950 and 1954. There are also some interesting examples with bodywork by coachbuilders such as Abbott, Beutler and Farina.

LAGONDA 2-LITRE SPEED MODEL REVIEW

Unusual for an English company, Lagonda was founded by an American, Wilbur Gunn, beginning in Staines as the manufacturer of the Tri-car. From 1907 until the 1920s light cars being the theme, their 11.9hp offered competition for a while to the 11.9hp Morris Cowley. While Morris concentrated on mass production, Lagonda decided to produce top quality cars for the discerning. From the mid 1920s the firm concentrated on sports cars and tourers in the main. A new engine designer, Arthur Davidson, was brought in from Lea Francis when he introduced the 14/60 in 1926, the new 2-litre 4-cylinder sporting engine featuring twin, high mounted camshafts operating inclined valves in hemispherical combustion chambers. Power output of this advanced new design was a respectable 60bhp. This engine was to propel Lagonda production into the 1930s, the Speed Model from 1927 featuring improvements to the chassis, camshaft, con-rods, lubrication and brakes. For the 1929 season a new Low Chassis Lagonda 2-litre Speed Model was introduced, featuring revisions to the frames front end and a higher compression engine fitted with twin carburetors. In 1930 a supercharged version was introduced, the Powerplus blower mounted vertically and in front of the engine, feeding a Cozette carburetor, a stronger crankshaft and a 3-litre axle. 80mph plus was capable under normal aspiration, 90mph with the optional supercharger, and an acceptable 18mpg feeding from a 20 gallon fuel tank. Long distance trials and rallies were of immediate appeal to owners, this model being considered as one of the most usable and enjoyable vintage and PVT sports cars around, its supreme versatility proven time and time again on road, rally and race track events, Lagonda firmly establishing itself at Brooklands, and later of course at Le Mans.

LAGONDA LG45 DROPHEAD REVIEW

Lagonda's striking new model range for 1936 was unveiled late in September 1935, designated the Lagonda LG45, an abbreviation of the new company name of L.G. Motors and 4.5 litres. Offered in three body styles or as a bare chassis for those requiring bespoke coachwork, the car was based on the 10' 9'' wheelbase ZM type chassis, the LG45 representing the best of both the Rapide and M45A models, and featured softer and longer road springs damped by Luvax linked hydraulic shock absorbers, the trend for more comfort which the company now followed. The radiator was similar to that used on the Rapide, and the Girling braking system was retained. The engine was further refined and quietened, a Meadows gearbox employed, but it now incorporated a Lagonda-designed and manufactured synchromesh on third and top gears. The result was a car which, after being overseen by the talented and brilliant designer Frank Feeley, combined luxury with sports performance in exactly the way that customers had come to expect. Model range revisions were reflected by 'Sanction' numbers, the Sanction One of 1935/6 having the same engine as the M45R, but with a lower compression ratio of 6.8 : 1, while the Sanction Two of 1936 introduced twin Scintilla Vertex magnetos. The later Sanction Three of 1936/7 used an improved cross-flow inlet manifold, cast intregally into the cylinder head, onto which the carburetors were now bolted directly. The Sanction Three also featured a lightened flywheel, allowing 4,000rpm, and a stabilising bar linking the spindles of the rear shock absorbers so as to prevent any oscillation at the back. The Sanction Four was similar in many ways to Sanction Three, fitted to the new LG6, producing about 130 bhp.

LAGONDA M45 REVIEW

1933 Lagonda M45 The big and powerful 4 -litre Lagonda M45 is rightly regarded as one of the most desirable post-vintage thoroughbred cars. It was introduced by the Staines-based company in 1933, using the famous 6-cylinder 4,453cc overhead valve engine by Henry Meadows, which itself dates back to 1928. The M45 was well received as an elegant, sporting quality car, and was endowed with considerable performance by the standards of the day. It proved an instant success, and was almost as fast in closed-body form as it was with open coachwork. Upon its introduction it was the largest-engined British sporting car available, and very few competitors could even approach the performance its big 6-cylinder engine offered. The M45 model was based on the 10ft 9ins wheelbase chassis of the preceding 3-litre ZM model, reworked to accept the 4 -litre Meadows engine and its associated Meadows T8 gearbox. The long stroke engine had bore and stroke dimensions of 88.5mm x 120.65mm to displace 4,453cc, producing around 108bhp at a lazy 3,100rpm. Launched at the 1933 Motor Show, the 4 litre Lagonda M45 was the first model from the Staines sports car company to use the straight six Meadows engine, which gave the new car near 100 mph performance, allied to remarkable stamina, a prototype being driven in the 1500 miles from Dieppe to Brindisi, beating the express train by a massive 14 hours. The M45 offered performance to match the new Bentley 3 litre, at virtually half the cost, and it quickly became the fashionable model to have, notable owners being world land and sea speed record holder Sir Malcolm Campbell, and, on the publication of The Saint in 1935, Leslie Charteris in New York, in celebration of his 25th novel. A full team of specially prepared short-wheelbase M45s were built and raced in the 1934 RAC Tourist Trophy at Ards in Ulster, finishing 4th, 5th and 8th despite the handicap system favouring smaller cars, amongst only 17 finishers from a field of 40 starters. These TT cars were then re-prepared at Fox and Nicholl, locally in Tolworth, to compete in the 1935 Le Mans 24 hour race. It was Hawkers test pilot, John Hindmarsh, and Luis Fontes, a 21-year old Anglo-Portuguese, who excelled, winning this classic endurance race outright. Exclusive, just 410 M45s were completed in the 1933-35 period, most of them carrying Lagondas own coachwork. The M45 was regarded very much within its period as a fast and rugged gentlemans sporting car, quickly finding favour amongst the wealthy sporting fraternity. 

LAMBORGHINI COUNTACH REVIEW

Introduced in 1974, the Lamborghini Countach wowed the world with its unconventional looks, which were startling when compared with more conservative sports cars of the day. The Countach was the first supercar to pioneer the wedge shape – a design that would heavily influence car design in the next two decades. It was also a mid-engined design, carrying the torch first lit by the Lamborghini Miura in 1966, but the cabin was moved much further forward to accommodate the large engine. Again, this was a groundbreaking design feature that is still seen in the top supercars of today.

While most subsequent Lamborghinis have been named after bulls or bullfighting, Countach is actually an exclamation in the local Piedmontese people, usually uttered by a man upon seeing an especially beautiful woman. And it was beautiful. Styled by Marcello Gandini of Bertone (at that time an inexperienced designer), the Countach was the result of his imagination run wild. Not inhibited by such trifling matters as ergonomics, he let loose all his design flair to create one of the most striking cars ever produced. Low, wide and angular, the Countach was designed to take the breath away. But it wasn’t a user friendly car. The scissor doors, though hugely impressive, couldn’t be opened far enough to get out if there wasn’t enough clearance. Reversing the big supercar was also a chore – thanks to its crazy body you can hardly see out of the rear window.

Styling was only half the story though. Beneath that angular, lairy bodywork lay the beating heart of a monster – a 3929cc twelve-cylinder engine producing over 370bhp.

The first incarnation of the Countach, the LP400, was released in 1974 and in total only 158 cars were produced. The styling was even more aggressive than Gandini’s ignition designs, though some of these modifications were practical in nature – large air scoops had to be added all over the car to help cool the big V12. At this they were only partially successful – driving a Countach is a warm experience due to the heat from the engine soaking into the cabin.

The first styling changes came in 1978 with the launch of the LP400S, the most notable addition being the large glassfibre flared wheel arches. Many purists claim that the LP400 is the most attractive due to the lack of these features.

In 1982 the LP500S was launched. The bodywork remained the same, but the engine was swapped for a more powerful 4.8-litre engine. This would be the most numerous model to date, with 323 cars produced.

The 5000QV arrived in 1985, so named for its four-valves per cylinder arrangement, or quattrovalvole in Italian. The existing 4.8-litre engine was bored and stroked, giving a final displacement of 5.2-litres. Six Weber carburettors fed the new motor, allowing a maximum power output of 414bhp. The carbs were now placed directly above the engine, completely eliminating rear visibility.

From 1988 to 1990 the final edition 25th Anniversary model was produced, which featured much changed (and largely unpopular) bodywork. 658 of these cars were produced.


VITAL STATISTICS

ENGINE 3929cc/12-cyl/DOHC

POWER 370bhp@8000rpm

TORQUE 266lb ft@5000rpm

TOP SPEED 164mph

0-60MPH 5.9secs

ECONOMY 17mpg

GEARBOX 5-speed manual

LAMBORGHINI DIABLO REVIEW

Why would you want a Diablo? It's obvious: styling like no other, that legendary Lamborghini badge and a gargantuan V12 connected to an open-gate manual gearbox; road presence still beyond that of most cars; doors that open scissor-style; engine noise from an orchestra beyond the clouds; a 200mph-plus top speed; values on a steady upward slope... Need I go on?
The question of whether it's right for you is more difficult to answer, not just because of the significant initial outlay to acquire one, and potentially, more alarming sums to keep one running sweetly, but also because Diablos require a skilled hand at the wheel along with a willingness to be the centre of attention wherever you go.
'There's a very good reason why a lot of early Lamborghinis are low-mileage,' says Neil Singh of Buckinghamshire High Performance. 'For a start they're not the most comfortable of cars; and where do you park it? They're also very wide and rear visibility is not good. And then there are the running costs...'
The Diablo was in production for 11 years, and over that time morphed from being the ultimate car made by cottage industry Lamborghini to a more polished product of the Volkswagen-Audi Group (VAG). So there's a wide range of models, although given how few were originally sold - and the fact that some have been shipped abroad - even finding one can be difficult.
'They can deteriorate quickly if they're left unmaintained,' says Neil. In fact, if there's one common theme from talking to Diablo specialists and owners, it's that these wonderful cars demand that any maintenance jobs that arise - whether routine or unexpected - are dealt with.
Owner Phil James sums is up perfectly. 'You've got to be prepared to do whatever it needs, whenever it needs it, and not worry about how much it will cost. If you can't afford that, don't buy one.'

VITAL STATISTICS
Engine 5707cc-5992cc, 48v, DOHC, V12
Power and torque 492-567bhp, 428-465lb ft
Top speed 202-210mph
0-60mph 3.9sec
Gearbox 5-speed manual, RWD and 4WD
 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR


PAPERWORK
It's easy to be seduced by a Diablo, but it's crucial to keep a level head when buying one. And the most crucial thing of all is to conduct a thorough examination of all paperwork.
'Try to find one that's been to a reputable specialist,' is Neil's advice. 'Don't just be satisfied by service stamps in the book - you've got to look beyond the stamps and into the paperwork to see if the right jobs have been done at the right time. And don't worry too much about which model - always try to buy the very best car you can afford, but be prepared to accept a few niggles and constant fettling.'
A Diablo should have been treated to the best over the years, and you'll want to see lots of evidence that it has enjoyed a money-no-object lifestyle. A big-ticket failure such as a worn-out clutch in inevitable at some point in Diablo ownership; but if there's no proof of a recent change, budget accordingly and ask more searching questions.
Given the potential for financial carnage, it makes sense to invest in a pre-purchase inspection. BHP charges from £300 to carry out this which, given the thousands of pounds you could potentially save, seems like a no-brainer. Amazingly, many go into the purchase blind.


ENGINE
The crowning glory of the Diablo is the scintillating, naturally aspirated V12 powerhouse located just aft of your shoulder blades. A development of the original, 3.5-litre V12 first seen in the 350GT of '64, by the era of the Diablo it had grown into a 5.7-litre, 48-valve monster, producing 492bhp and 428lb ft of torque. Outputs then grew progressively, culminating in the 567bhp 6.0-litre GT of 1999.
The good old V12 is a tough unit if looked after, so maintenance is the key to avoiding big bills in the long term. Neil concurs. 'Any issues here [with the engine] and this is where the money will mount up. They do burn oil, and it varies from car to car, so check it out thoroughly. If the engine required a rebuild, you're looking at £14,500-£24,000.' Gulp.
You'll also want to check the servicing paperwork with forensic precision to see evidence of the valve clearances being set at the major service: it sometimes gets skipped. The big service is £1980 but to do the shims costs £270, with the shims themselves costing from £3-£20 each.


CLUTCH AND DRIVETRAIN
The Diablo's clutch is perhaps its single greatest weakness. Wear depends on how the car is driven as much as mileage: not riding the clutch while driving in town is a very good idea. The complete clutch kit is £2142 (you can change just the plate at £468 but it depends on wear and is not really advisable), with BHP charging £2700 for fitting. If a Diablo's clutch slips on a test-drive, you take it seriously.
Gearbox problems are rare, but a rebuild will be £4800 so check carefully for worn synchromesh. Abuse a 4WD VT - full-on standing starts, trackday heroics and suchlike - and the next items to wear will be the front driveshafts. The front differential can get noisy, but some VT owners remove the front driveshafts altogether to make their cars rear-wheel drive. Remember that four-wheel-drive cars rely on correct, matching tyres for the system to function properly.


CORROSION
While a serious engine fault is the headline fear of Diablo ownership, the hidden menace is corrosion. Diablos are made up from a relatively crude steel frame and box-section chassis, and exposure to the UK climate in particular can rot them alarmingly.
It can be very hard to spot the onset of rust if it's within the car, but there should be some telltale signs if you take a close look underneath: that's why a pre-purchase inspection is so important. If you do end up with a rotten car, BHP charges from £480 for labour in sorting surface corrosion, with materials on top, but a complete chassis restoration starts at £6000 and can be a lot more. Then there are body panels to think of, and while these are easier to sort out they can still suffer corrosion - particularly the doors.
Paint quality from new wasn't great, but remember that if it does need painting there's an awful lot of surface area to cover. Obviously, that means you'll need an awful lot of paint: BHP reckons on £420 per panel for a good-quality repaint.


SUSPENSION
Unsuprisingly, given the forces involved in keeping this supercar on the straight and narrow, the Diablo's suspension does wear out. And parts prices aren't cheap. Bushes perish, wishbones can corrode and dampers leak, although BHP is sometimes able to rebuild the latter if they're not too far gone. A repair costs £720 per damper, but replacements are £1920 and ideally you would replace them in pairs. You'll also need to factor in labour at £450 (for changing all four) and a subsequent alignment check at £300. Some later Diablos have electronically controlled variable dampers with different settings - but if the actuators fail inside they're fit only for the bin.
Some cars have a lifting kit on the front suspension to clear speed bumps, but the system can leak - and given that it uses the power steering fluid it needs fixing quickly.


ELECTRICS
The Diablo is the sort of car where an engine light appearing on the dash every time you drive it is nothing remarkable. They can suffer from a whole gamut of electrical niggles, and are prone to tripping sensors on the engines.
Any coil pack failure on later cars will mean buying all 12 from Lamborghini or finding singular Audi A8 items - they're exactly the same part.

LAMBORGHINI ESPADA REVIEW

Ferruccio Lamborghini's desire to include a four-seater GT came about in the Spring of 1968 when the Espada was exhibited at the Geneva Salon. A very distinctive design from the Bertone studio, it was far out in appearance yet eminently practical. With 150mph performance from the 3.9-litre V12 engine, five speed gearbox, chassis-mounted rear final drive and coil spring all-independent suspension, 1217 examples were built over the ten-year period from 1968 to 1978. Initially producing 325bhp, by the time the third series was introduced in 1972, output had risen to 365bhp. One of the most admired and commercially successful Lamborghinis, it was the adverse circumstances affecting the factory by 1978 that were the real reason why theLamborghini Espada ceased production, the new Countach produced in-house. While Bertone continued to build the Espada, some suppliers were said to be demanding cash on delivery at that time! Rare in right hand drive form.

LAMBORGHINI JALPA REVIEW

Italian supercars are known for two things. The first is dramatic styling, something the Lamborghini Jalpa (pronounced 'Yal-pa' or 'Hal-pa', depending on which specialist you speak to) has sewn-up. The second is the engine. While the V8 is of fairly small capacity there is no ignoring its presence - it dominates the driving experience. Its output of 255bhp was enough to shove the Jalpa to 60mph in 7.3 seconds, and allow it to comfortably crack 150mph. It produces peak power at 7000rpm but the engine is still flexible at lower speeds, and is happy to spin to its howling 7500rpm redline at a prod of the throttle.

All of this vivid performance and aural excitement is accompanied by the clacking of the gearlever through its open gate - the gearshift is of the racing iety with first gear on a dog-leg - although you'll probably find the clutch rather heavy in traffic. Not that urban motoring is this car's natural habitat, as it is far more at home on flowing roads where you can really make the most of that singing engine. There, you'll also benefit from precise steering free from the heaviness that afflicts it as parking speed, and powerful brakes that have no trouble in hauling the car down from big speeds.

Climb inside and you'll find a functional-looking leather-lined cabin that looks particularly luxurious in the black fascia/cream trim combination that was so popular at the time. It's logically laid out too, the instruments and switches arranged in a series of pods that make up the dashboard. That said, don't be surprised to find some slightly wonky gaps as build quality wasn't one of the Jalpa's strongest suits. It proves comfortable for the most part though, although wheelarch intrusion means the footwell is cramped, the pedals no doubt designed for smaller feet clad in stylish Italian loafers.


VITAL STATISTICS

Engine 3458cc/V8/DOHC
 

Power 255bhp@7000rpm

Torque 231lb ft@3500rpm

Top Speed 161mph

0-60mph 7.3sec

Economy 18mpg

Gearbox Five-speed manual


WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

Corrosion isn't the dominant factor you might expect, although a 1980s Italian supercar constructed from steel clearly presents seom risk - little was galvanised to prevent corrosion in those days. So, examine every panel to ensure rust isn't nibbling at their edges, door bottoms and wings being particularly vulnerable. Also check the floor area ahead of the rear subframe and the bottom corners of the wings where they neet the wheelarches - this latter area is known for trapping muck and moisture. The floor of the front luggage compartment can dissolve too, so remove the spare wheel to be sure, and lift the interior carpets if that's possible. expert body repairs are expensive so ensure that any previous work hasn't been done poorly on the cheap.

All external fixtures and fittings need checking, as parts prices are crippling. Replacement bumpers are hundreds of punds, while a new windscreen will set you back more than £2000 before fitting, so damage to these parts and items such as mirros and lights will rack up big bills. Make sure the pop-up headlamps are working too - they can fail.

ENGINE
 

The Lamborghini's V8 engine needs fastidious maintenance - a complete overhaul will cost you a five-figure sum. The all-alloy construction requires a cooling system that's in peak condition, so watch for signs of overheating and murky coolant, signifying internal corrosion and silting. Likewise the lubrication system, so ask for proof that regular oil changes have been carried out. Oil leaks often originate frm the crankshaft oil seal, the timing chain cover and oil return pipes between the cylinder head and block. Be wary of anything exhibiting signs of head gasket problems, and ask whether the exhaust valves have been changed; the original sodium-filled valves were prone to breaking and specialists recommend a change to solid valves. Listen for excessive clatter from the timing chains and camshafts and check that pipes and hoses haven't perished in the high under-bonnet temperatures.

The Jalpa uses four twin-choke Weber carburettors and, excessive thirst for fuel aside, they shouldn't give trouble. Air leaks or wear can cause poor running but a re-build isn't too difficult, although expertise is needed to set-up and synchronise them correctly. Likewise, the ignition system is fairly reliable if maintained properly, although it's susceptible to damp.

TRANSMISSION


The transmission is generally strong, but excessive noise or a reluctance to engage gears will likely mean a costly re-build. The clutch lasts fairly well in normal use, but parts alone can exceed £1600 and replacement is an engine-out job. A tired or leaking slave cylinder is probably responsible for failure to disengage properly.

SUSPENSION

Worn suspension bushes will seriouslty affect the handling, while the front MacPherson struts can suffer from play in the top bearing. The braking system uses mostly ATE parts common to BMWs of the period, so refurbishment isn't too costly, although check for rear calipers that have seized through lack of use. Depending on age, single or dual brake boosters are fitted and they can be problematic; ensure stopping ability is up to scratch. Check the Campagnolo alloy wheels - corrosion can set in and you'll be looking at professional restoration.

INTERIOR & TRIM

Interior quality was always patchy. Water ingress from failed targa roof seals will cause damage and play havoc with the electrics. The Jalpa can suffer from niggling faults caused by corrosion in the fusebox and iffy wiring/relay connections. The air-conditioning was never terribly effective and some owners may have ignored a defunct system due to the cost of getting it going again.


VERDICT

The allure of Italian supercars is obvious, but often accompanied by ferocious running costs. Running a Jalpa on a shoestring isn't a realistic proposition and is the root cause of most problems. By all means enjoy everything it has to offer, but spend as much as you can afford and get any potential purchase inspected by a specialist.

LAMBORGHINI MIURA REVIEW

The single most iconic supercar of the 1960s. Having bought Ferrari cars as soon as he could afford them, Ferruccio Lamborghini set his mind on proving that he could make a better car. His bold challenge began in 1964 with the 350GT, but it was the arrival of the Miura - arguably the founder of the modern mid-engined supercar class still current today - that established Lamborghini cars. The Lamborghini Miura was first displayed as a rolling chassis at the 1965 Turin Motor Show, the first completed car ready for unveiling to a stunned press and public at the 1966 Geneva Salon. Designed by Gianpaolo Dallara as the fastest and most stylish car available, the Miura carried its transversely mounted engine amidships in a box-section platform chassis, with stunning coupe coachwork by Bertone's Marcello Gandini. Like the contemporary 400GT, the Miura used a 3,929cc version of Lamborghini's Giotto Bizzarrini-designed four-cam V12. With 350bhp at 7000rpm available via six Webers and four-valves per cylinder, the Miura was capable of shattering performance with a top speed of nearly 288kph / 180mph being claimed. A five-speed gearbox with synchromesh and limited slip differential, suspension was independent front and rear by double wishbones and vertical coil springs, with roll bars front and rear.

The first Miura, the P400, was a far greater success than was anticipated. The maximum production figure of 20 was exceeded five times over in its first year; Lamborghini buyers were falling over themselves to snap one up.

However, despite popularity and the cutting-edge technology it employed, the Miura still had plenty of room for improvement. Contemporary road-testers couldn’t achieve anything like the claimed 180mph top speed, and high-speed stability was questionable.

In 1969, the P400S was launched, refining the original concept. Larger inlet ports upped engine power from 350bhp to 370bhp, while better tyres and suspension tweaks improved handling. Inside, electric windows, radios and air conditioning attempted to civilise the beast.

Lamborghini still wasn’t happy, launching the improved Miura SV two years later. On paper, not much had changed – 0-60mph was still achieved in less than six seconds, with power creeping up to 385bhp. This was to be the greatest incarnation of the production Miura.

A whole host of facelift changes played with the original Bertone lines; gone were the controversial ‘eyelashes’ on the pop-up headlights, while new lamps all round complimented a redesigned grille. Look a little closer and some bigger changes had taken place.

Located in the engine’s sump, the gearbox and final drive shared their oil with the mighty V12. This arrangement, although fine with the BMC Mini, asked rather a lot of the lubricant. As a result, the SV featured separate engine and transmission sumps. Putting the power down onto the road were now nine-inch wide rear wheels, in place of the precious seven-inch items.

150 SVs were built (against 474 P400 examples and 140 of the P400S), but by the early ’70s, the new Countach meant the Miura was old news.

WHY YOU WANT ONE

Why would you not want a Miura? Not even the stoniest of hearts could fail to be melted by the stunning Bertone shape, or the raucous exhaust note. As a work of art, the Miura is a masterpiece. As a car, the Miura is exactly how you’d expect a ’60s single-minded supercar to be. On the one hand, it offers a driving experience so raw and exciting as to be unreal. On the other, there are plenty of other machines that are easier to live with. Driving pleasure is the only thing that matters when you’re behind the wheel of the Lamborghini – worries such as fuel economy and ease of parking are for other drivers.

As Road & Track magazine reported in 1968, the Miura is "a road car designed to transport two people from A to B as fast as possible, with some degree of comfort." If you need to cover a great distance quickly and in style, then the mid-engined Lamborghini makes sense. Technology may have progressed in the five decades since its launch, but it’s not hard to see why Miura values are so high. If you are one of the select few who can afford such a machine, you won’t be disappointed.

AT THE WHEEL

There’s a sense of theatre about the Miura, apparent from the moment you open its door. The door handles are built into the side air intake grilles, requiring a press of a chromed button to swing open the swooping panel. Lower yourself into the leathery embrace of the driver’s seat, and you find yourself cocooned in the hand-built cockpit. Two dials with drooping eye-lids peer at you from beyond the steering wheel, while switches and instruments are scattered between the dashboard and the roof-mounted console. Then it’s time to start the engine.

As 12 cylinders rumble into life, it’s clear that the Miura is designed with one purpose in mind – to go fast. Very fast. Depress the heavy clutch, snick the heavy gearlever through the exposed metal gate, and set off. Low speeds are not the Lamborghini’s forté, with both ride and engine uneasy as they crawl along. Pick up the pace, accompanied by a glorious howl from the twin exhausts, and suddenly it’s a different car; poised, agile and furiously quick. It may not be an easy car to drive, but the Miura is one you would forgive any flaw.


VITAL STATISTICS

LAMBORGHINI MUIRA SV

Engine 3929cc/V12/DOHC

Power 385bhp@7350rpm

Torque 330lb ft@5000rpm

Top Speed 172mph

0-60 mph 5.5sec

Economy 13.9mpg

Gearbox 5-spd manual


WHAT TO LOOK FOR

1The steel spaceframe chassis was never rust-proofed from the factory, so trapped water can spell disaster. Floorpans can rot, as can the rear bulkhead behind the seats. This takes most of the stresses from the engine, so needs to be in excellent order. 

2The front undertray is vulnerable from low-speed kerb impacts. Inspect this area closely for any damage, and signs that filler has been used to disguise it. Doors can sag and window glass can drop into the door when winding mechanisms fail. Windscreens can delaminate, due to the stresses that the frame is placed under. Due to dramatic value increases, make sure you’re looking at a Miura that has been restored properly.

3Oil leaks can be a particular headache with the Miura’s V12 powerplant. If the engine is allowed to fall out of tune, this will cause a number of problems, including poor running and reluctant starting. The best way to ensure a Miura is kept in tip-top condition is to drive it regularly and to fix any problems as and when they arise. This requires either specialist knowledge, or deep pockets. Not a DIY favourite.

4Ensure that all the electrics are in good working order – typically for most Italian cars, this is not always the case. Check the electric windows on the P400S and SV. If the original brake discs are still fitted, they could be warped – juddering under braking and excessive pedal travel suggests this. Tyres need to be in excellent condition, as Miura high-speed stability depends upon them.


VERDICT

‘Pretty car,’ said the Mafia boss in The Italian Job. True, he was casting his eye over an Aston Martin at the time, but he could just have easily been referring to the Miura that was destroyed at the beginning of the film.

To many Brits, this was their first glimpse of Lamborghini’s raging bull. And what a machine. Everybody should experience a Miura once, although of course most never will.

Our pick of the range is the last-of-the-line Miura SV, which benefitted from a whole host improvements that the cars picked up during their lifetime. That isn’t to say the P400 and P400S are lesser machines, though. As a car to own before you leave this world, Muiras are unbeatable.

CLASSIC CAR REVIEWS - LAMBORGHINI URRACO

Ferruccio Lamborghini adopted the charging bull as his emblem with the introduction of his first production car, the V-12 350GT, which debuted at the 1964 Geneva Motor Show. This was a bold challenge for Ferrari, but it was the arrival of the Muira in 1965 which saw Lamborghini, the self-made tractor tycoon, really set the pace with the introduction of the 'supercar' class, redefining the shape and transverse engine specification which a supercar had to have. Continuing this theme, the Lamborghini Urraco is the only V8-engined Lamborghini, all other models being in V12 form, and was in production from 1972 until 1976 in 2,463cc form, during which time the next Lamborghini sensation, the Countach introduced, in 1974.

1989 LANCIA DELTA INTEGRALE 16V REVIEW

The Lancia Delta Integrale has a sporting pedigree that its rivals could only dream of.
Launched in 1979, the original Lancia Delta marked the beginning of a change in fortunes for the Turin marque. On the face of it, you’d have been forgiven for dismissing the new model as nothing more than a run-of-the-mill family hatchback. It was so much more than that, though. The Delta was a generational quantum leap, both in its overall design and in its technical and aesthetic qualities.
Legendary designer Giorgetto Giugaro turned out a modern take on two-box design thinking, with a strongly geometrical shape in which trapezium forms figured heavily. This concept proved hugely advantageous in terms of compactness and habitability, offering impressive amounts of interior space in what wasn’t a particularly big car. With modern mechanicals, a classic front-drive/transverse engine set-up and all-round independent suspension, the Delta made a name for itself from the outset – so much so that it was crowned European Car of the Year in 1980.
Things got a whole lot more interesting in 1982, when a four-wheel drive prototype was exhibited at that year’s Turin Motor Show, followed by a limited run of 200 Delta S4 models in 1985. In 1986, the Delta HF 4WD production model hit the showrooms, proving an instant hit with performance-hungry buyers. Powered by a supercharged version of the 2-litre engine employed in the Lancia Thema, it pumped out 165bhp. With that kind of potential on tap, it was only a matter of time before the all-wheel drive Delta, or ‘integrali’, was to be used as a competition tool and, in 1987, the car began its period of dominance on the world rally scene.
It ran away with the World Constructors Championship six years in a row between 1987 and 1992, racking up 46 outright victories, before bowing out after the 1992 Rally Sanremo.
Unveiled in 1989, the Delta Integrale 16v was ‘just’ another step up the evolutionary ladder, boasting 200bhp against the previous peak of 185bhp. More than two decades later, its reputation as a legendary driving machine is assured. Time to find out why it’s so good.
Climbing inside the Delta, its potential to scare the pants off you isn’t immediately apparent.
For instance, the light and airy cabin is almost family-friendly in appearance. Even the optional Recaro seats don’t give things away. They are extremely comfortable, with an impressive range of adjustment, meaning you’re able to settle on just the right driving position.
But once you have settled behind the height adjustable steering wheel, your eyes are immediately drawn to the impressive array of analogue instruments in front of you, aggressive with black quadrants and yellow figures, with more than a whiff of the aeronautical about them. This is a car that suggests speed. After firing up the beast, the exhaust note isn’t particularly invasive, but don’t let that lull you into a false sense of security. This definitely isn’t the school run machine it first appears.
The Delta engine’s exuberant power output means that even without particularly remarkable aerodynamics, a top speed in excess of 130mph is achievable, though not on the public highway of course. The 2-litre turbo lump offers great hunks of torque as low down as 2000rpm, with plenty of positive response even when the turbo hasn’t fully spooled up, which doesn’t take long. Plant your foot in second gear, wait half a second, then bang! You’re instantly pinned back into your seat, an intuitive sensation that only increases as you find your way up through the close ratio gearbox, with genuinely thrilling performance all the way up to the redline.
Impressive as the Delta’s mechanicals are, the quality of its chassis is what really makes you sit up and take notice. The ride is necessarily firm, but not uncomfortably so, while the steering is never less than precise and offers exceptional control over wheel reaction. The presence of a Torsen self-locking differential means the rear wheels can fully exploit the share of torque they receive from the central torque-splitting differential, while the torque destined for the front wheels allows for spine-tingling acceleration without excessive oversteer.
The Delta has margins of control that result in an awe-inspiring driving experience, in a way that make it easily accessible to almost any motorist. This alone probably goes towards explaining its continued reputation amongst marque aficionados – it really is a thoroughbred racer which can just as easily be used on a daily basis.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR


BODYWORK & CHASSIS
Despite Lancia's unenviable reputation for corrosion, the Delta was never too badly afflicted by rust, while the Integrale's many add-on trim bits seemed to help prevent, rather than cause decay. There are a few vulnerable areas, notably the screen surround, trailing edges of the sills, front scuttle and bottom edges of the doors, tailgates, and the rear edge of the roof, where water can sometimes get trapped in the door shut. Also, check the door shuts for cracks in the body, especially on tuned, stiffened cars.  


SUSPENSION & BRAKES
Handling is key with an Integrale, and keeping one sweet can sometimes be a challenge. Front suspension bushes tend to last about 40,000-50,000 miles, while those on the rear trailing arms wear out sooner - bank on replacement every 30,000 miles, or less due to age. On Evo and Evo II models the front anti-roll bar drop-links wear quickly - cover a high mileage and this will be an annual job as you'll hear them knocking against the floorpan. Front brake pads are extremely prone to wear, especially if driven hard. Expect to replace the, every 15,000 miles or so. The rear pads will last a bit longer, but if you're covering a decent mileage and enjoying the car, chances are you're looking at a complete brake overhaul every two years.


TRANSMISSION
With the 4WD system, the condition of an Integrale's clutch and gearbox is critical. They eat clutch cables, but a heavy clutch, judder as it's released or slipping under power are all signs that the clutch is on its way out. Unless you're brave or foolhardy, you're looking at around £750 to get it fixed by a specialist - something to factor into the price bargaining if a car you're looking at is otherwise in good fettle. The 4WD system means the odd clunk from the transmission shouldn't be too much of a worry when changing gear, but any constant chafing or grinding noise spells more serious deterioration of the gearbox.


ENGINE
Turbo life is approximately 80-90,000 miles, though there are many cars that are still running round on the original ones with a higher mileage on the clock. Such cars will probably be down on power, as blade wear on the turbine can render the turbo very inefficient resulting in reduced power and increased fuel consumption. Fitting a replacement isn't as scary as it sounds and can be instantly gratifying in terms of the reward it brings.
Like most European cars of the era, regular cambelt changes are absolutely critical - in the Delta it's needed every 24,000 miles on 16v models or 36,000 on 8-valvers. Even by the standards of the day, that's a pretty short interval, but it's also one not to be ignored as a replacement belt is significantly cheaper than an engine rebuild. If you cover a low annual mileage, once every five years minimum should be sufficient. Integrale 16Vs are especially sensitive to oil level - let it get too low and the big end bearing will seize, snapping the crankshaft in the process.


INTERIOR & TRIM
Interior parts are extremely difficult to get hold of these days, as there are practically no ordinary Deltas left and very few Integrales at breakers yards - the good ones are all in preservation and most of the hard-driven and fragile ones have been broken and pillaged already. Wear to seat trim, which is fairly common, will need the attention of a specialist trimmer. Other bits of damaged, loose or distorted trim may be hard to replace without lengthy club and auction site searches.
 

OUR VERDICT
Integrales are not for the faint-hearted. LHD only, flaky electronics and high running costs are all part of the experience, but live with those and you'd be hard pushed to find a car with the same level of grip and power delivery. An instant classic at launch, even more so now.
 
VITAL STATISTICS
Engine 1995cc/4-cyl/DOHC turbo
Power 212bhp@5750rpm
Torque 232lb ft@2500rpm
Top speed 137mph
0-60mph 5.4sec
Economy 25mpg
Gearbox 5-speed manual

LANCIA APRILIA REVIEW

Vincenzo Lancia's final great masterpiece was the Lancia Aprilia which went into production early in 1937, a new compact car, seating five in comfort and combining speed with economy. The aerodynamic saloon was of unitary construction with minimal (for the period) drag factor, sliding pillar front suspension, trailing arm rear suspension incorporating a transverse leaf spring, and powered by a forward mounted 1,352cc V4 engine. The all-new engine featured hemispherical combustion chambers, aluminium cylinder block and Duralumin conrods and developed some 47.8bhp. Designer Falchetto was responsible for the styling, with considerable influence from Pininfarina at Corso Trapani.