JAGUAR XJ6 SERIES III REVIEW

Jaguar

There's plenty of choice when it comes to the Series III, and here's how to pick the very best...

When introduced in 1979, the Jaguar XJ6 Series III was not immediately to everyone's liking. Despite an expensive redesign with its Pininfarina styled roof, and refreshed cabin, some Big Cat enthusiasts felt that it was taking liberties with the classic looks of one of their favourites. In fact, the Series III set out to rectify some of the deficiencies of the Series II, and was better equipped for everyday use, but you had to try one to find that out. In addition to new body panels, the new model had an increased amount of glass, and a much-needed additional 3in of headroom in the back - great if you're being chauffered! External differences included flush door handles, vertical grille bars, revised 'Gothic' rear lamp clusters, and impact bumpers with decorative chrone along their top edges. There were three engine options to choose from, 3.4- and 4.2-litre straight sixes and V12 5.3-litre. The 4.2 had the advantage of fuel injection, while the 3.4- and 4.2- litre cars both had the option of the LT77 five-speed manual gearbox.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine: 4235cc/6-cyl/DOHC

Power: 205bhp@5000rpm

Torque: 236lb ft@3750rpm

Maximum speed: 130mph

0-60mph: 8.5sec

Fuel consumption: 16-20mpg

Transmission: RWD, five-speed manual/three-speed auto

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Rotten luck

While these cars are known for being well built, rot free they are not. One of the first areas where rust attacks the bodywork is beneath the rear valance where the exhausts emerge. Check the boot floor too. A really crucial area to inspect is where the rear suspension radius arms are mounted to the floorpan near the rear doors. Water can infiltrate the double-skinned rear valance and if the rubber is slack around the front and rear windscreens, it can get in and cause damage to the surrounding areas. If mudflaps are fitted, lift them to inspect the state of the wheelarches. Light corrosion shouldn't put you off, but extensive amounts of rust will inevitably result in big bills. Keep looking.

Six of the best

Six-cylinder engines are tough and can rack up six-figure mileages easily with good maintenance. Head gaskets should be replaced at 100,000 miles so check if this has been done. While V12 engines are also generally robust, they are not cheap to fix so if you find a troublesome one, move on. They are less DIY-friendly than the 3.4- and 4.2-litre engines too.

Cool running

If you are looking at a fuel injected car, make sure that you hear the engine running up from cold, building it up to correct temperature. If you arrive and the 'helpful' owner already has the engine running, ask him to turn it off and start again when it has cooled down.

Under pressure

Good oil pressure is essential and should be at least 40psi when you start up from cold and not fall below 20psi once it has warmed up. Gauges may not be reliable.

Top gear

Gearboxes - the Rover SD1-derived five-speed manual and a three-speed auto - can be troublesome. Other worthwhile checks are for worn brake discs, noisy timing chains and rear axles, plus fuel hoses on fuel injected cars.

Heat treatment

Make sure the climate control equipment is working properly as this can be another area where you'd have to carefully evaluate the cost of work or replacement.

You wear it well

That 'gentleman's club' feel of the cab interior is wonderful and the leather seats and door trim generally wear well and respond to being looked after, which is good as they can be expensive to retrim. The cost of making a car like this look right can easily exceed that of mechanical considerations.

OUR VERDICT

After early doubts were allayed, the Series III established itself as one of the best Jaguars of all, with the injected 4.2-litre coming out as the pick of the crop. As the Series III was produced in large numbers, the survival rate has been good. If you are interested, don't leap at the first one you see but keep looking until you're sure you have the car you want. In its review of June 1980, Car and Driver magazine described the Series III sa being as 'slick as the inside of Faye Dunaway's dressing gown' - and you can't be fairer than that!

  Jaguar

  XJ6

JAGUAR XK140 REVIEW

Jaguar

The epitome of 1950s sophistication, we take a look at the XK140...

Jaguar was keen to build on the success of its revered XK120 and the job of replacing it fell to the XK140, launched in September 1954. While the beautifully flowing lines may have looked familiar, there were plenty of changes under the skin that brought useful improvements. Chief among these was moving the engine forward, which released a crucial few inches of extra legroom in the cabin. Mechanical changes included a more powerful engine, and an improved steering and suspension set-up for sharper handling.

VITAL STATISTICS

Jaguar XK140

Engine 3442cc/6-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm) 190bhp@5750rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 213lb ft@4000rpm

Top speed 127mph

0-60mph 11sec

Consumption 21mpg

Gearbox 4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

Rot is one of the biggest issues with any XK and this model is no exception. Specialists reckon that the lower six inches of bodywork is where most care is needed, and with the potential for huge restoration costs, it pays to be diligent. Problem areas include the headlamp surrounds and front wings, door bottoms, floorpan, boot floor and inner wings.

The sills, particularly around the B-post need checking, as does the A-Frame around the door hinges. The chassis should also come in for close inspection as rot can spread quickly through box sections and chassis rails, and you should also watch for any signs of twisting. Checking for an even gap where the front torsion bar springs run parallel to the chassis will give a good idea of any problems here. Getting a specialist to check over a potential purchase would be money very well spent.

ENGINE

The XK engine is well-proven and fundamentally strong with proper care. Oil leaks are common but rarely prove serious. A check for excessive blue smoke on the over-run will warn of major internal wear. Oil pressure below about 20psi at tickover is a bad sign. Overheating will blow the head gasket and is often caused by a silted-up radiator. Fitment of an electric fan is a popular modification – a healthy cooling system is a must with these engines. You can expect some noise from the tappets and timing chain, but an overhaul beckons if this is excessive. The 210bhp SE model is sought after and adds a useful extra dose of performance.

RUNNING GEAR

The Moss four-speed manual gearbox is a bit slow in operation but otherwise reliable, worn synchromesh being the most likely problem (some owners choose to upgrade to a later five-speed unit). A re-build isn’t cheap, so don’t ignore any issues here – ensure the optional overdrive works if fitted. A three-speed Borg Warner automatic was an option but isn’t hugely popular with buyers.

Changes over the XK120 included telescopic rather than lever arm dampers, and Alford & Adler rack-and-pinion steering instead of the vague recirculating ball arrangement. Neither should give particular trouble, though you need to watch for rot around the front anti-roll bar mountings and the rear spring hangers where they attach to the chassis. Modern poly-bushes in the suspension are a worthwhile upgrade for improved comfort and longevity, and it is worth ensuring that previous owners have kept up the greasing regime.

INTERIOR

Condition is everything when it comes to the cabin of an XK140 as a top quality refurbishment is eye-wateringly expensive. Perhaps more of an issue is aged wiring that not only causes electrical malfunctions but can pose a fire risk too. A complete re-wire is in the region of £2000-2500, but at the very least specialists recommend fitting a battery isolator switch to prevent serious trouble.

OUR VERDICT

Gorgeous to look at and thoroughly accomplished to drive, the XK140 is one of the finest British classics around – at a price! Depending on body style, the very best examples are now comfortably into six figures, which puts them out of reach for all but the well-heeled. Even restoration cases are heading for £30,000 or more. Not a cheap option, but a beautiful classic and a sound investment.

JAGUAR MK I REVIEW

Jaguar

Jaguar’s compact saloon brought prestige motoring to a new audience and it makes a great classic buy.

The steering is heavy yet easy to control via the large wheel but the gearbox needs careful negotiation. Automatics aren’t the smoothest but take some of the challenge out of driving. The ride is generally composed, though leaf-sprung rear can transmit the odd thump over bad ground. The 2.4-litre has the soundtrack if not the pace, but will be fine for most.

Those after more poke will need the extra grunt of the 3.4, but bear in mind the slim rubber before you emulate Sir Stirling and other famous racers. The driving experience is not too dissimilar to the Mk2, but the thick pillars and sumptuous nature somehow make the cars feel a bit more weighty and solid, even though it’s lighter. The drum brakes don’t offer the sharpest stopping experience, and even the discs need a good, hefty shove.

VITAL STATISTICS

Jaguar 3.4

Engine 3442cc/6-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm) 210bhp@5500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 216lb ft@3000rpm

Top speed 120mph

0-60mph 9.1sec

Consumption 16-20mpg

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

Rot in the rear wheelarches and spats is not uncommon and the area immediately behind the rear wheels can suffer badly, so get down on your knees to check thoroughly. The boot floor is well worth inspection, as are the inner wheelarches. Make sure all the brightwork is in good condition too as replacements are not always easy to source.

Check the rear spring hangers and listen out for excessive rear axle noise. They can be costly to rebuild. Some like to upgrade cars to wires, but it’s an involved business requiring many parts to be changed. Cars with wires fitted will command a premium, but they are time consuming to keep clean and can suffer from corrosion. Check all the spokes are firmly in place and not suffering from any visible damage. The 2.4 wears ordinary steel wheels, with the 3.4 having cut-down rear spats to clear the optional centre-lock wire wheels. The 3.4s from 1958-on may well have disc brakes.

Check around the wheelarch for rot and check for excessive play in the steering. The car should feel easy to direct on a test drive and shouldn’t wander. Worn bushes can cause front-end clonks.

Check for sill corrosion and the quality of any repairs. Replacement of a sill could easily cost £2000, or more once paint has been factored in. Open the doors and check the state of the sill tops – bodged repairs are tricky to do without it being obvious. You can inspect the sill end via the wheelarch – although it may not be so easy at the rear due to the spats. Front floorpans can also be a concern, especially if the windscreen seal has been leaking.

ENGINE

Tried and tested twin-cam XK engines provide the power for the MkI. Watch for excessive leaks from the rear crankshaft oil seal (an engine-out job to resolve), blue smoke from the exhaust and any knocking or grumbling from the bottom end. Timing chains can rattle and regular oil changes are essential. Keep an eye on the temperature gauge and check the radiator for cold spots after a run. An electric fan is a sensible upgrade, but not essential if the cooling system is healthy. If a fan is fitted, leave the car at idle and check that it kicks in as it should.

RUNNING GEAR

The MkI’s monocoque construction means restoration can be exceedingly complex and expensive. Start your hunt for rot with the nose – any signs of bubbling around the headlamps or horn-grilles hints at something far worse beneath the surface. The bottom few inches of the wings are particularly vulnerable. Also check the main chassis rails as they head rearwards and the front crossmember.

INTERIOR

Check the seats for damage, splits and sagging, and the wood dashboard for cracks or delamination. Restoring the veneer correctly can be very expensive. Make sure no one has attempted messy repairs. With the seller’s permission, lift out the rear seat base as it gives a good opportunity to check the channels that the rear leaf springs sit in. Even good cars can have issues here. The Moss manual gearbox can be a bit crunchy if you try and hurry it, so take your time. First gear will whine somewhat, but other gears should be relatively quiet. Overdrive is very desirable – make sure it works if fitted. Automatics are not the most refined of kit, but shouldn’t jolt too much or slip in gear.

OUR VERDICT

The MkI has been overlooked for decades, but rarity has driven values up. With 210bhp and a top speed of 120mph, the 3.4 certainly has a lot of performance to offer, but this is a car that is is about much more than sprint times. Most will find the gentle, refined ride quality of much more interest. It’s a great car for wafting around, and is a fantastic choice if you want to set yourself apart from the Mk2 crowd. You’ll struggle to find a bargain, however, and restoration costs can be eye-watering.

JAGUAR XK120 REVIEW

Jaguar

Once little more than a showcase for the XK engine, the stunning XK120 became a sales phenomenon.

The engine that spawned the car is a masterpiece in its own right, but its condition can make or break a purchase deal

As Ian Appleyard’s legendary rallying XK120, NUB 120, proved during the early 1950s, this car was practically born to excel at motorsport, so it’s hardly a surprise to learn how good they are to drive today.

That said, it’s quite a large car, so is hardly fly-nimble, and the relatively ordinary steering, suspension and brakes (and, on unmodified cars, occasionally obstructive Moss gearbox) combine to make the whole driving experience feel very much of an era. Purists may take a very dim view of running gear upgrades, but done sympathetically and using Jaguar parts, they can transform an XK120 into a genuinely enjoyable sports car.

Taller drivers are strongly advised to make sure they can fit behind the steering wheel – the original four-spoker certainly looks the part, but its sheer size does swallow quite a bit of interior space.

You’re guaranteed to forgive the XK120 anything once you get it onto a B-road and open the taps, though. 160bhp might sound meagre today, but back in 1950, it was considered ballistic, and it does emit a truly fabulous snarl when pushed.

VITAL STATISTICS

JAGUAR XK120

Engine 3442cc/6-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm) 160bhp@5000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 195 lb ft@ 2500rpm

Top speed 120mph

0-60mph 9.8sec

Consumption 19.8mpg

Gearbox 4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

XK120s can be separated out into two distinct variants: the early all-alloy/ash framed cars (the first 242 cars built up to early 1950, all of which were hand-built roadsters); and the later, cars, which retained aluminium doors and bootlid/bonnet panels, but employed pressed steel elsewhere. Given that XK120 production ended in 1954, you’ll be extremely lucky to find a good car that hasn’t been at least part-restored by now, so watch on early cars for rotten or fractured wood frames and evidence of potentially corrosive electrolytic reaction in any areas where steel and aluminium panels meet.

On balance, it’s often preferable to go for a solid car with tired mechanicals, rather than vice versa. Rebuilding the legendary XK engine is hardly cheap, but when you discover that a new door costs £1500, and a wing can set you back by over £2700, it’s clear that the cost of a full body restoration can spiral out of control, especially if it’s entrusted to a marque specialist. More than any other classic car, it’s strongly advisable to buy the very best example you can afford when hunting out an XK120.

Painstaking originality doesn’t have a huge impact on values (apart from within the rarefied circles of concours competition), although very early models with plain wheels and rear arch spats are generally preferred left as originally intended, rather than upgraded with basket wire wheels and removed spats. Returning modified cars back to original spec isn’t particularly difficult, although reversing other popular modifications (bonnet louvres, leather bonnet straps, etc.) can be trickier, and may involve a considerable outlay.

ENGINE

Since the XK120’s six-cylinder engine came into being before the car itself, this is clearly the heart of the matter. Broadly speaking, it’s a strong unit, although it does tend to use oil and isn’t immune to poor cooling. Persistent stalling can often be traced back to something simple, like a blocked petrol tank breather or incorrect valve clearances, while a rattling noise from the bottom of the engine suggests that the timing chain is on its last legs. Since replacement involves removal of the engine, this can be a deal-breaker.

RUNNING GEAR

All XK120s were factory-fitted with the (in)famous Moss gearbox, which was relatively unpopular when new, and doesn’t take kindly to rushed changes. Upgrading to a later, all-synchromesh gearbox is common; the XJ6’s overdrive transmission is a popular choice, although transplanting a Getrag five-speeder is a more straightforward swap, just so long as the ’box comes with an adaptor plate to allow it to marry up with the bellhousing. Budget on £3500 for a reconditioned unit.

Supermodel looks notwithstanding, the XK120’s steering and suspension setup is relatively ordinary, with a torsion bar and telescopic dampers up front, and a leaf-sprung live axle out back allied to lever arm dampers. Steering is recirculating ball. It’s not uncommon for XK120s to be uprated using later XK140 components (telescopic dampers, rack and pinion steering), while specialists can re-build and modify existing steering to eliminate an original design flaw that can cause premature wear.

Half shafts are a known weak point on XK120s, simply because they are so rarely properly maintained or, indeed, replaced. Given enough time and neglect, the oil seal will wear a deep groove in the shaft, which will eventually break it, with inevitable consequences. It’s a similar story with the front stub axle, although eventual failure here on cars with drum brakes can be more serious, as it frequently takes a wheel with it.

OUR VERDICT

Don’t even think about attempting to buy an XK120 on a shoestring budget – remember this was the Bugatti Veyron (albeit a very good value one) of its day, so running costs are likely to be similarly rarefied.

That’s not to say owning one is an impossible dream, however: be prepared to pay for the very best car your bank account can muster and make sure you have a contingency fund on standby for potentially strenuous repairs, and there should be no horror stories waiting for you in future years.

Choose wisely, and you’ll have a piece of genuine iconic motoring history parked in your garage. Every drive will be an exhilarating event, every fuel-stop will make you the centre of attention, and it’s probably about as close to depreciation-proof classic motoring as you’re ever likely to get.

A classic superstar if ever there was one.

The XK120 must surely rate among the most beautiful cars ever made. It’s not especially quick in standard tune, and an unmodified car can prove a challenging handful to the unfamiliar driver, but the sheer drama a sorted example evokes is addictive.

And drama is key to the XK120’s general appeal. Even today, an early roadster (which has a plainer interior and much simpler lightweight soft-top than the later DHC) stands out a mile from the crowd, the deceptive simplicity of its flowing lines bereft of the increasingly heavy-handed jewellery that befell the dynamically superior, but aesthetically fussier XK140 and XK150 DHCs in later years.

It’s also that rarest of classic cars – a true icon. Jaguar founder and design chief William Lyons only ever intended the car to be a short-lived rolling showcase for the new XK engine, so he was genuinely taken aback by the huge interest the car generated at its 1948 London Motor Show debut. Such was its success, in fact, that it took another icon to finally eclipse it – and that car (the E-Type) wasn’t launched until 1961.

JAGUAR XK150 REVIEW

Jaguar

E-type not exclusive enough? Then why not consider the XK150. We explain why they’re such a great choice.

With only its successor the E-type to challenge it, the Jaguar XK150 can lay claim to the title of the greatest post-war production sports car in the world. In their time, they were absolutely without parallel. They have incredible style, a terrific heritage and superb performance – even by the today’s standards. These fine examples of British engineering are also practical too, which is paramount for any old car that’s going to see regular use.

VITAL STATISTICS

1959 XK150 FHC

Engine 3781cc/6-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm) 220bhp@5500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 240lb ft3000rpm

Top speed 136mph

0-60mph 8sec

Consumption 17mpg

Gearbox 4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

Those long flowing wings and masses of compound curves are a double edged sword – gorgeous to look at, but murder when it comes to restoration. It’s rare to find an example that hasn’t had some form of resto’ work during its lifetime, so your first concern is what’s been done, and to what standard.

A good guide towards the quality of a restoration is to check the ‘waterline’ between front and rear wheels. The front wing, door and rear wing should follow a straight line, without unsightly bulges or dips. Examine the front wings for rust bubbles around the light units, or filler breaking out around the sidelights – they were leaded originally, so should blend seamlessly into the wing itself.

Doors are prone to dropping on their hinges, while the hinge box itself – concealed within the A-post, so not easy to check – is a common rot spot. There should be a ⅜in or so gap between the leading edge and the wing flank when the doors are open. If the doors touching the wing, then the wing may be poorly aligned.

ENGINE

The XK engine’s worst failing is probably its thirst for oil, with consumption of up to a pint every 200 miles being quite normal. Oil leaks are also par for the course – if the rear crank seal is dripping, the engine will have to come out to change it.

Listen for a noisy waterpump, as changing it is a tough job, as the radiator has to be removed to do it. Once warmed up, oil pressure should be around 40psi at 300rpm, dropping to 20psi at idle. Keep an eye on the temperature gauge too, as cooling was marginal even when new – an electric fan is considered a must these days.

RUNNING GEAR

Thanks to rack-and-pinion steering, an XK150 should steer precisely, but if there is any slop on the move, then check for tired or torn rubber rack mountings, as well as play in the bushes where the trackrods exit from the rack tube. The latter can be felt by grabbing each trackrod around its rubber gaiter and pulling it forwards and backwards. Worn front suspension bushes are another common issue, so check them for signs of perishing and oil contamination.

XK150s have disc brakes all round. Fit 16in wheels if possible, although some cars end up with 15in E-type rims, due to smaller tyres being cheaper – decide whether originality or practicality is of most importance to you.

INTERIOR

XK150s had simple leather covered facias as standard, while the seats were also trimmed in leather, but Vynide or Rexine substitutes were used on other panels. Trim kits are available for the keen DIY enthusiast, but variations between individual cars means they often need work to achieve a respectable fit.

Hoods can also be bothersome, due to the various frames and patterns used during production, so are best made to suit particular cars.

OUR VERDICT

Last of the legendary range of XK sports cars, the 150 remained true to the formula on which Jaguar built a dynasty. A 150S with 3.8-litre engine and triple-carb head effectively offered the same spec as an early E-type, but with the added bonus of that art deco style bodywork. Its character was more comfortable than ever though, seemingly content to fulfil the role of grand tourer – if long distance cruising with a generous dash of panache is your requirement, you won’t go far wrong with an XK150.

JAGUAR XJ6 SERIES 1 REVIEW

Jaguar

The XJ6 marked a new start for Jaguar and for years this landmark car has been in the doldrums. But word is now out; the earliest of the breed is a great car that’s becoming increasingly collectible.

Good enough to be crowned Car of the Year in 1969, the XJ6 marked the start of a new era for Jaguar when it arrived in October 1968 to replace the S-type, 420, 420G and 240/340. While this one-model policy could have decimated Jaguar’s sales, it did the opposite, the new car instantly making its predecessors look dated. While those previous cars from Jaguar were hardly lacking in luxury, refinement or comfort, this new model raised the bar to a level that most rivals never really matched.

Despite the XJ’s astonishing range and depth of talent, much was carried over from the old models, including the XK six-cylinder engines, rear suspension and transmissions. In 1969 a Daimler version was introduced, badged Sovereign and identical to the XJ6 in every way apart from the badging. The Series II replaced the Series I in 1974, after more than 98,000 examples had been produced.

Now, if you can find a good Series 1 you’ll be rewarded with one of the most relaxing driving experiences available anywhere. Nowhere is the old adage of Grace, Space and Pace more applicable than here; all three are offered in abundance. Prices have started to climb sharply for the few really good cars left, but it’s the usual story; digging deep for one of these (if you can find one) will invariably cost rather less in the long term than by buying a project and reviving it properly.

If buying a project the costs can quickly escalate; the bodywork is most costly to revive while the trim can also be alarmingly expensive to sort. But at least most minor mechanical maladies are relatively easy and cheap to fix, especially if you can do the work yourself. You’ll spend more restoring an XJ than an equivalent-condition E-Type, yet the finished item will be worth far less – which is one reason why most people take the E-Type route. Problem is, those aren’t much good for family motoring – whereas the XJ is more comfortable than anything else at just about any price.

VITAL STATISTICS

Jaguar XJ6 S1 (4.2-litre)

Engine 4235cc/6-cyl/DOHC

Power 173bhp@4750rpm

Torque 227lb ft@3000rpm

Top speed 124mph

0-50mph 8.8sec

Economy 15-19mpg

Gearbox 4-spd man/3-spd auto

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Spot the rot

Rotten and bodged cars are the norm, so analyse all of the bodywork meticulously. Key rot areas include the bottoms of the A, B and C-posts along with the sills, rear wheelarches and valances. Also scrutinise the spare wheel well, door bottoms, rear radius arm mounts and the arms themselves, the screen surrounds and the bonnet hinge mounting points. The bonnet can also corrode, as can the boot lid, wings around the headlights plus the various jacking points; check all these areas very carefully for filler. The radiator support frame also dissolves; if left to fester, rust then eats into the front chassis structure. Front subframes also rot badly; expect to pay around £2000 for a specialist to supply and fit a used subframe.

Make sure it’s been serviced

Offered in 2.8 and 4.2-litre guises, the XK engine needs regular maintenance or its life will be much reduced. Look for a service history, make sure the engine doesn’t sound hollow or rattly and ensure the oil is clean; walk away if it’s like tar. The key is to budget for a rebuild as soon as the engine is showing signs of wear; delay things and the bills will quickly mount, especially if something ends up breaking. The XK engine has a cast-iron block and alloy cylinder head. Because of the latter, anti-freeze levels must be maintained or internal corrosion is guaranteed. Even a well-maintained engine will need a fresh radiator every 5-10 years depending on use, so you may need to budget for this at £220 plus fitting.

Beware the oily underside

Look at how much oil is on the car’s underside, as the rear crankshaft oil seal can fail. Once this has happened the engine needs a complete rebuild; a specialist will charge £4000 for the privilege or you could do the work yourself for upwards of £600 – but it’s an involved job.

Sniff out transmission woes

Some XJ6s have a manual transmission, others feature a Borg Warner unit which can suffer from jerky changes, even in good condition. Inspect the fluid for colour, level and condition. If it’s black and smells foul, a £1000 rebuild is on the cards. The manual gearbox is strong and most such transmissions were supplied with overdrive. If this seems slow to engage it’s probably because the oil needs changing or has fallen below the ideal level; wear is unusual. Differentials are tough, but can leak oil all over the in-board rear brake discs; repairs are at least £1200. The seal often leaks because the brakes have overheated, so you might need to rebuild the brakes as well.

Bush craft

Tired suspension and rear subframe bushes are common, so check they’ve not split; worn front tyres point to perished bushes in the front suspension, which knocks the geometry out. There are a lot of bushes throughout the car, and if they all need renewing, the bill could be massive. Also analyse the dampers for leaks; replacements cost from £30 apiece. The handbrake is frequently poorly maintained; it has its own callipers and pads, which can seize up. Make sure the car can be held on a hill, using just the handbrake, as fixing this can be a pain.

A dash of comfort

Much of the XJ’s appeal lies in its cabin, which is as luxurious an interior as you’ll find. A tatty interior costs big money to fix, especially if the carpets and wood trim are tired; the potential for expenditure into the thousands shouldn’t be underestimated.

OUR VERDICT

Years of low values have led to many Series 1s being neglected or broken for parts, which is why you’ll have your work cut out finding a good one. But with few classics offering the same level of luxury and arguably none able to match the XJ6 for comfort, it’s worth taking your time to find something really good.

JAGUAR XK8 & XKR REVIEW

Jaguar

When brand new, Jaguar’s big cat cost £47,950. These days, even good examples cost peanuts. We assess the pros and cons of ownership.

The first thing you notice wonderful noise from the quad-cam 42 valve V8 engine. All 290bhp is put through the rear wheels, and the big engine makes it handle like a car should. Plenty of tail-out action is on the cards and the auto ‘box is a bit of a hindrance for this sort of driving, but comes into its own when you point it down a long, empty stretch of road.

The XK8 is a grand tourer like no other. Cruising is effortless, the cabin quiet and hugely luxurious, albeit not roomy. There is a noticeable lack of space in the cabin, in particular the rear seats, where there is no legroom at all if the person in the front is over 6ft. On the plus side this space seems to have been taken up by the cavernous boot

The real downside is the high fuel consumption. You may get 28mpg at a push, but more likely 19-20mpg. Despite the huge power output, the
XK8 is most comfortable in everyday driving. The ride is as smooth as any you’ll find, the drive as involving as you want it to be.

VITAL STATISTICS

JAGUAR XK8

Engine 3996cc/V8/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm) 290bhp@6100rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 290lb ft@4250rpm

Top speed 156mph

0-60mph 6.4sec

Consumption 21mpg

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

Rust can be a serious issue, as it’s not always visible. Front floor pans were poorly rust-proofed, so lift the carpets and check for any signs of rot. Do the same with the boot liner, but be sure to check thoroughly, lifting sound deadening as well. Pay attention to where the battery tray is welded to the floor. Check both front and rear arches, being sure to look behind the plastic liners, which can disguise serious rust. Rear wheelarch liners cover a shelf that can trap dirt and allow rot to set in. Be sure to poke and prod the front sill. Also give the rear bumper a push and pull; any movement indicates that the metal guides it is attached to are probably rusted through – a new bumper won’t fix the problem. Open the bonnet and check the bottom of the windscreen for signs of rust. Lift any plastic trim to see what’s beneath, and check drain holes are clear. Be wary of cars that have been left under trees, where leaves may block drain holes.

ENGINE

Nikasil was used by Jaguar as a cylinder lining in the mid-1990s. It has many desirable properties, but, unfortunately, disintegrates when it comes into contact with sulphur, an ingredient of petrol. If the engine is pre-2000 then it has Nikasil lined cylinders, and if there isn’t documentation to prove recall and repair, then walk away. It may be fine, but chances are the damage will already have been done. A lumpy idle is indicative of bore wear due to Nikasil degradation.

Post-2000 cars should be safe, as the sulphur content of UK petrol dropped dramatically and Nikasil was dropped in favour of steel. Jaguar dealers can test for premature engine wear in Nikasil engines. Pre-2000 replacement engines will have a small tag to the nearside of the engine block. If this is missing, it’s on its original engine.

Start the engine from cold and listen for rattling from the cam chain. Many early cars were fitted with defective tensioners, which may result in a loose cam chain over time. The loose chain may jump teeth, causing the car to run rough, or worse, completely self-destruct. Ensure there is evidence in the history file that the tensioner has been updated to a later version, and that the chain has been changed in higher mileage examples. Check the oil filler cap for mayonnaise, and the coolant reservoir for signs of oil. Both indicate a blown headgasket, which requires an engine re-build. Check for white smoke from the tailpipe when revved, which will suggest engine wear that also requires a re-build.

RUNNING GEAR

All-round build quality can be patchy, particularly the mechanics. The five-speed automatic gearbox is described as being ‘sealed for life’, making it hard to check the oil level or top it up. This can result in failure after just 10 years. Check the service history for evidence the gearbox oil has been changed in line with the mileage. Listen for unusual clunking or whining with each gear change, it may suggest the gearbox is on its way out. The XKR is fitted with a much more robust Mercedes-Benz gearbox, which is easier to service and less prone to failure.

Inspect the tyres all round, paying particular attention to the front pair. Any uneven wear may indicate failure of the wishbone bushes, which will cause steering problems. Steering should be crisp, precise and light; anything less and repairs may be on the cards. Wishbone bushes start to go at around 20,000 miles. Once again, make sure that there are records for replacement in the history file.

OUR VERDICT

Perhaps the best-looking Jaguar since the XJ220, the XK8 used tried and tested design cues that were first employed on the Aston Martin DB7.

Stunning looks combined with awesome performance from the 290bhp V8 engine make the XK8 an attractive proposition for long distance touring. If a 0-60 time of 6.4 seconds still isn’t quite fast enough for you, then there’s always the XKR, the XK8’s supercharged big brother, that puts out an incredible 390bhp.

Both cars have suffered massive depreciation over the years, largely a result of a reputation for poor build quality, huge maintenance costs, and a thirst that would impress George Best. Despite the shady reputation, both cars still look like a million dollars – there are few other ways to look quite so successful, or quite so savvy, for less than £4000. A bona fide modern classic, there is something about this big cat that exudes style and charisma as much today as it did on its release 16 years ago.

By now all of the common faults will have come to the fore, so it is fairly easy to find a brilliant example providing you take care. Buying with your head and not your heart is imperative. Do your research, go prepared with a checklist, and stick rigidly to it. Only consider buying a car with no faults, as even minor issues can be costly to put right. Most problems are beyond the realms of the casual mechanic, and though there are plenty of independent specialists, costs will be high.

Fortunately, there is no shortage of cars for sale. Prices are lower than ever, creating a buyer’s market. As long as you know what to look for you have every chance of getting a top class motor for bargain basement money. But remember: if it isn’t perfect, don’t buy it.

JAGUAR E-TYPE SERIES II REVIEW

Jaguar

Second series doesn’t necessarily mean second best, here’s how to find a good one...

The summer of love may have gone by the time the Series II appeared, but the love for the Jaguar E-type, then as now, knew no bounds.

Since the E-type made its sensational debut in 1961, some devotees were wary of subsequent developments but change it did. The XK6 4.2-litre engine pre-dated the arrival of the Series II, appearing in the two-seater Sports and coupes from 1964, and then the elongated 2+2s from 1966. The 4.2 is a smooth and powerful engine that offers refinements over the previous 3.8 including better low-end torque and mid-range pickup.

The Series II was announced at the Earl’s Court motor show in 1968 continuing the range of three different models at the same price but offered a revised look with some notable new features and options. For many Jag fans, it is the one to have while for others it is the one they can afford. As Series I prices continue to soar, so demand for Series II will rise – they’re not going to get any cheaper, so now’s the time to see what’s available.

VITAL STATISTICS

Jaguar E-Type Series II

Engine 4235cc/6-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm) 265bhp@5400rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 283lb ft@4000rpm

Top speed 136mph

0-60mph 7.4sec

Consumption 18mpg

Gearbox 4-spd manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

The condition of the bodywork – both structural and cosmetic - is a prime concern with any E-type, some would say it is more important than the mechanical condition. Because of the level of investment involved, a full inspection by a professional is recommended so that you can be sure that what you are paying for represents value for money. Restoration costs can soon exceed the car’s total value. The design, incorporating large monocoque box sections, was prone to rust as a result of internal condensation. If you make your own inspection, take a detailed look at the front chassis frame as a crack is a sure sign of internal rot breaking through. Check the outer sills to see that the drain holes do their job and have not been blocked by over enthusiastic use of underseal. Pay attention to panel fit and gaps as wings may not have been welded on correctly and it is not just a matter of readjustment to fix it.

ENGINE

The XK 4.2-litre straight six is generally strong and reliable but the block is susceptible to frost damage so look for cracks. Blocks can be metal-stitched at a cost. If tappet noise is excessive and continues for a long while after the engine has started the tappet guides may need replacing. Other things to look for include wear on the main shaft, worn gearboxes with synchromesh problems, and a tendency for the master brake cylinder to stick.

RUNNING GEAR

Steering column bushes and rack end bushes often wear out, likewise the ball joints. Many US cars had a factory power steering system fitted. In the cabin, original 16in driving wheels tended to constrict drivers and as a result, smaller aftermarket types have often been substituted. Original wooden steering wheels can delaminate and split.

Many Series II drivers prefer silver wire spoked wheels and chrome wheels were an optional extra but are often found on US cars. Rear wheel bearings and differentials can be tempermental and while parts are available and not too expensive, replacement can be involved and therefore costly. The Series II hubs are smooth and sturdier than their predecessors. Some cars will have been fitted with modern tyres and wider rims for improved handling – look for signs of rubbing at the rear bump stops. Make sure that the removal tool for the spinners is included with the car.

INTERIOR

Many E-types have been returned to the UK from the US and conversions from left-hand drive to right-hand drive can affect value. To meet their emission levels, the Americans got detuned engines with twin Zenith-Stromberg 175 CDSE carburettors while triple SU HD8s were retained in the UK. Retro fitting of SU carburettors is a good upgrade for a US market car.

OUR VERDICT

While purists may hanker for a Series I original, the Series II incorporated a number of significant improvements that resulted in a more mature and reliable car.

Because America represented a huge market for the E-type, several of the changes were in line with US legislation relating to emissions and safety. For example, the new fully reclining seats allowed for head restraints to be fitted, while rocker switches replaced the earlier toggle type, and a collapsible steering wheel was introduced. However, the most visible change was the loss of the distinctive glass headlight covers.

Engine cooling was improved with a larger air intake, plus a pair of electric cooling fans and a larger radiator. Braking was improved while air conditioning (left hand drive cars only) and power steering were optional extras, with an automatic gearbox being a factory fitted option for 2+2 owners.

For those who want a sorted E-type the Series II has got a lot going for it. A good example will certainly not be cheap, but you will not just be investing in one of the most desirable classic cars but also ensuring a lot of driving pleasure.

  Jaguar

  E-Type