Series III

JAGUAR E-TYPE V-12 SERIES III REVIEW

Dropping a V12 engine into the E-type helped it evolve from a pure sports car into a grand tourer. Here's how to ensure you buy a good one...

If you ask enthusiasts to pick their favourite breed of Jaguar E-type, chances are the Series 3 wouldn't be chosen by many. The E-type was very much a child of the 1960s, but the sleek and stylish star developed middle age spread for the Series 3, 10 years after its debut. Wheelarches flared, extra chrome was added, the almost delicate-looking front grille was enlarged to feature egg-crate slats, disc wheels replaced wires and only longer wheelbase 2+2 roadsters and coupes were available. The purity of the original was replaced by a fussiness that hinted at Jaguar doing all the nips and tucks it could to try to keep the car going until a successor could be found.

However, there was a big bonus with the S3 that you didn't get with any of its predecessors. And that was what was under its long, tapering bonnet. Jaguar had developed a rather glorious 5.3-litre V12 engine intended for the XJ12. But fitting it in the E-type first was a handy way of proving its reliability. With 272bhp on tap, it was a wonderful way of guiding the E-type through its twilight years. And although the V12-powered machines lacked the frantic charisma of the earlier six-cylinder cars, they now had a sophisticated refinement instead that made them excellent GT cruisers. Maybe an earlier E-type could run rings around them in a shorter cross-country blast, but when it came to charging across entire countries on motorways, an S3 was by far the superior choice.

The V12 model stayed in production for just three- and-a-half years until supplanted by the XJ-S. During that time, 14,983 examples were built, with most of the cars going to the United States. It was bedevilled by increasing legislation and a fuel crisis that suddenly made cars unable to haul their fuel consumption out of the teens very unattractive. The final 50 made were finished in black and sported a special numbered dashboard plaque bearing the signature of Sir William Lyons. By then, he'd retired as well... truly the end of two great Jaguar eras.


VITAL STATISTICS

JAGUAR E-TYPE SERIES 3

Engine                                    5343cc/V12/SOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  272bhp@5850rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 304lb ft@3600rpm

Top speed                                146mp

0-60mph                                  6.4sec

Consumption                            15mpg  


WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

It costs a lot to restore an E-type, so sometimes jobs can be skimped on or skipped completely. Thus checking everything is vital. As a barometer, look behind the fuel filler flap. If it's grotty on a car that has supposedly been sorted, then other areas may be dodgy too.

Check panel gaps all around - especially where the bonnet meets the bulkhead, the trickiest spot to align. Areas to check for corrosion include the bootlids on roadsters and the door bottoms on all types, due to blocked drainholes. Check in all the boot for collected water. The tubular frame in front of the bulkhead that supports the engine also rusts or cracks and is a mega job to rectify. Bonnet noses, sills, the rear wing edges and below the back bumper are also vulnerable. Underneath, examine the three strengthening ribs.

Look for pitting of Mazak items such as door handles. And thoroughly check the hood of a convertible for marks, splits and easy operation.

ENGINE

The V12 is a tough old thing and probably much less stressed now than when E-types were more enthusiastically driven. Look and listen for overheating and harshness; the block and heads may have been warped. Make sure the thermostatic cooling fan cuts in as it should. On the oil pressure gauge, check for 0lb or higher at 3500rpm. Oil leaks are quite common - if it's from the rear chrankshaft seal though, it's a very pricey job to put right.

A rattle from the front of the engine is likely to be a worn timing chain, especially if is happens when revving or the overrun. this can strike cars after every 35,000 miles or so.

Check all the hoses under the bonnet - there are a mind boggling 20 of them. And while you're at it, also look at the fuel lines, which go brittle as a result of heat. Carburettors can be difficult to tune properly, especially if their diaphragms have perished.

RUNNING GEAR

There's no greater sign that the S3 had metamorphosed into a GT than in the fact that most V12 E-types were fitted with an automatic Borg-Warner Model 12 three-speed automatic transmission. It's pretty tough but look out for jerkiness or slipping, pointing to a service or even a full overhaul being needed. The manual cars can be affected by weak synchromesh on second and third and be concerned if you have real difficulty selecting gears when the gearbox is cold.

On all types, be wary of vibrations, clonks and whining from the differentials and driveshaft during your test drive.

BRAKES

The steering - which is rack and pinion - should feel sharp. Significant play points to worn column universal joints. On the rear suspension, the lower hub pivots have to be greased. If it's been missed you may hear creaking - which means they're corroded and potentially on the way to seizing. If you can jack the car up, check for play at the wheels. The rear ones should have some - if not, then it suggests the bearings have been over-tightened and will wear out soon. There should be less play with the front wheels though. If there's quite a bit, it signals worn bearings or lower wishbone balljoints.

A car where it feels like the back wheels are also steering probbly has worn or broken axle cage mountings. Steel wheels were standard, but wire wheels may have been fitted. Check them for damaged spokes and worn splines.

Brakes can be affected by any leaking oil from the differential getting on the in-board rear ones. The differential needs to be taken out to sort this, which is very involved. Test the handbrake - its self-adusting mechanism needs to be greased and may seize if it isn't.

INTERIOR

Fortunately, the interior isn't something you need to worry about, because practically everything is available. But it just costs quite a bit. Don't under-estimate the price of putting right damaged leather.

Electrical issues are often down to poor earths or bittle wiring, although DIY fiddling can also cause trouble. However, heater motors can stop working - make sure you try it out when you take an S3 for a test drive.


OUR VERDICT

The last of the E-types isn’t everybody’s cup of tea, because it’s set up as a refined and fast grand tourer, not a sports car. Some people argue that the V12 is too refined for the car and seems much more at home in an XJ12 saloon. However, if you love the E-type shape but find the six-cylinder engines a bit too aggressively sporty, then the Series 3 is for you.

There are compromises in the soft-top, such as a foul between the headrests and the hood mechanism when the latter is raised. The long wheelbase also did nothing for the proportions that had worked so well on the earlier cars.

Buying cheaply is potentially risky because of the costs of top-quality repairs and restoration. On the other hand, would you want to drive a concours car every day? We reckon the sensible choice is a mid-priced car that’s been carefully checked by a reputable specialist.

The E-type was already 10 years old and firmly established as a legend when the final Series 3 models were launched in 1971. Powered by the brand new V12 engine that would later be fitted in the Jaguar saloons, both the roadster and fixed-head models were on the longer wheelbase introduced for the 2+2 models. So although they looked like the sports car we all knew and loved, they also had some distinctive differences.

One of those differences was the significantly softer suspension, which taken together with the extra length, made the Series 3s more like grand tourers than the earlier E-types had been. Yet despite this slightly more staid image, the astonishing V12 engine brought its own glamour. Although sales of these thirsty big cats slowed following the 1973 oil crisis, Jaguar kept turning them out until 1975, when the XJ-S took over. 

Altogether, there were 15,287 built, of which 7990 were roadsters and 7297 fixed-heads. The last 50 all carried a dashboard plaque bearing the signature of Jaguar’s founder, Sir William Lyons.

JAGUAR XJ6 SERIES III REVIEW

There's plenty of choice when it comes to the Series III, and here's how to pick the very best...

When introduced in 1979, the Jaguar XJ6 Series III was not immediately to everyone's liking. Despite an expensive redesign with its Pininfarina styled roof, and refreshed cabin, some Big Cat enthusiasts felt that it was taking liberties with the classic looks of one of their favourites. In fact, the Series III set out to rectify some of the deficiencies of the Series II, and was better equipped for everyday use, but you had to try one to find that out. In addition to new body panels, the new model had an increased amount of glass, and a much-needed additional 3in of headroom in the back - great if you're being chauffered! External differences included flush door handles, vertical grille bars, revised 'Gothic' rear lamp clusters, and impact bumpers with decorative chrone along their top edges. There were three engine options to choose from, 3.4- and 4.2-litre straight sixes and V12 5.3-litre. The 4.2 had the advantage of fuel injection, while the 3.4- and 4.2- litre cars both had the option of the LT77 five-speed manual gearbox.

 

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine: 4235cc/6-cyl/DOHC

Power: 205bhp@5000rpm

Torque: 236lb ft@3750rpm

Maximum speed: 130mph

0-60mph: 8.5sec

Fuel consumption: 16-20mpg

Transmission: RWD, five-speed manual/three-speed auto

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Rotten luck

While these cars are known for being well built, rot free they are not. One of the first areas where rust attacks the bodywork is beneath the rear valance where the exhausts emerge. Check the boot floor too. A really crucial area to inspect is where the rear suspension radius arms are mounted to the floorpan near the rear doors. Water can infiltrate the double-skinned rear valance and if the rubber is slack around the front and rear windscreens, it can get in and cause damage to the surrounding areas. If mudflaps are fitted, lift them to inspect the state of the wheelarches. Light corrosion shouldn't put you off, but extensive amounts of rust will inevitably result in big bills. Keep looking. 

Six of the best

Six-cylinder engines are tough and can rack up six-figure mileages easily with good maintenance. Head gaskets should be replaced at 100,000 miles so check if this has been done. While V12 engines are also generally robust, they are not cheap to fix so if you find a troublesome one, move on. They are less DIY-friendly than the 3.4- and 4.2-litre engines too. 

Cool running

If you are looking at a fuel injected car, make sure that you hear the engine running up from cold, building it up to correct temperature. If you arrive and the 'helpful' owner already has the engine running, ask him to turn it off and start again when it has cooled down.

Under pressure

Good oil pressure is essential and should be at least 40psi when you start up from cold and not fall below 20psi once it has warmed up. Gauges may not be reliable.

Top gear

Gearboxes - the Rover SD1-derived five-speed manual and a three-speed auto - can be troublesome. Other worthwhile checks are for worn brake discs, noisy timing chains and rear axles, plus fuel hoses on fuel injected cars. 

Heat treatment

Make sure the climate control equipment is working properly as this can be another area where you'd have to carefully evaluate the cost of work or replacement.

You wear it well

That 'gentleman's club' feel of the cab interior is wonderful and the leather seats and door trim generally wear well and respond to being looked after, which is good as they can be expensive to retrim. The cost of making a car like this look right can easily exceed that of mechanical considerations.

OUR VERDICT

After early doubts were allayed, the Series III established itself as one of the best Jaguars of all, with the injected 4.2-litre coming out as the pick of the crop. As the Series III was produced in large numbers, the survival rate has been good. If you are interested, don't leap at the first one you see but keep looking until you're sure you have the car you want. In its review of June 1980, Car and Driver magazine described the Series III sa being as 'slick as the inside of Faye Dunaway's dressing gown' - and you can't be fairer than that!