Fancy a classic Lotus wedge? Chris Randall helps you choose the best...
Lotus founder Colin Chapman could never be accused of lacking ambition. In 1970, he outlined plans for a new range of cars, which would ultimately evolve into the production in 1974 of the Lotus Elite Type 75 (to distinguish it from the earlier Elite Type 14) and the fastback Eclat a year later. Both models suffered from high prices compared with their opposition, so final production numbers were somewhat below Chapman’s expectations, but today these stylish cars are available for very tempting prices.
Owning a Lotus has always been about the driving experience and with the marque a byword for superb handling, these front-engine models don’t disappoint. As long as the suspension is in good fettle, an Elite or Eclat offers tenacious grip allied to a well-controlled ride, making them a fine choice for covering long distances in comfort. Accurate and responsive steering and feelsome brakes add to the enjoyment, and allow you to make the most of the performance on offer.
The 2.0-litre engine boasted a useful 155bhp and 135lb ft of torque, resulting in a car capable of cracking the 0-60mph sprint in just eight seconds before topping out at 125mph. The engine needs revving to get the best out of it, though, with maximum power not arriving until you’re past 6000rpm, so the extra torque of the later 2.2-litre unit makes for less frenetic progress.
As well as looking great - thanks to the pen of talented designer, Oliver Winterbottom - the Elite is also practical with its 2+2 seating layout and glass hatchback; the Eclat made do with a smaller and less useful boot opening. Space in the back is a bit tight and adults probably wouldn’t have wanted to spend much time there despite what period adverts would have had you believe, but things are much better up front. Sitting close to the floor in comfortably reclined and bolstered seats, and faced by an imposing dashboard, the view out through the steeply raked windscreen to the low, low nose is pure sports car.
It’s just how a Lotus should be.
VITAL STATISTICS
Engine 1973cc/4-cyl/DOHC
Power 155bhp@6600rpm
Torque 135lb ft@5000rpm
Top speed 125mph
0-60mph 8.1secs
Economy 22mpg
Gearbox 5-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
1. The Elite was the first model to use the innovative VARI (Vacuum Assisted Resin Injection) process for the GRP bodywork, and quality was high so it lasts well. Even so, check the condition carefully looking for cracks and accident damage and signs of star crazing as repairs will likely need professional attention. And bear in mind that a top-notch respray won’t be cheap due to the preparation required.
2. The chassis on the other hand needs closer examination as rot is common, and can cost a fortune to put right. They were un-galvanized prior to May 1980 so check carefully, focusing on the areas around the engine and steering rack mounts, the front cross-member, and the differential. The rear cross-member is another rot-spot, not helped by the sound proofing material above it which absorbs moisture allowing it to corrode away unseen. You’re looking at body removal if it’s bad, and while a new chassis can be had for around £2000 the labour cost is substantial. And check the condition of the windscreen as leaks are common due to failed bonding; the anodized exterior trims are easily damaged during removal which is the only cure.
3. Both 2.0- and 2.2-litre (from 1980) engines are more reliable than you might think, but proper care is the key to longevity. The former can suffer from cracked exhaust manifolds, while all engines need checking for oil leaks as perished seals and gaskets can make curing them a depressingly common occurrence. Radiators and water pumps can be a weak spot as well and ignoring coolant loss risks head gasket failure. And regular cambelt changes are crucial, especially on early engines that used a square-toothed belt that can jump on starting the engine. You’ll find Dellorto carbs on most engines, and fuel can leak from split diaphragms with an obvious risk of fire. A full engine re-build isn’t cheap either, so be wary of mechanical basket cases.
4. The early Austin Maxi-derived gearbox was a bit weak for the job and parts are getting rare, although the later Getrag item was better. Check for the usual signs of weak synchromesh and obstructive shifts. More troublesome is the cable-operated clutch; the cable runs round a pulley which can seize, causing the cable to snap. A hydraulic set up can be retro-fitted, at a cost. Otherwise, it’s a case of checking for clunking UJs, whines and oil leaks from the differential that can contaminate the inboard rear brakes, and noisy rear wheel bearings (they are Maxi items) which are a common issue.
5. Worn wishbone and anti-roll bar bushes are the usual extent of suspension problems, although a complete overhaul can get pricey. However, a support pin for the rear wishbones, located at the differential, can shear and worn front trunnions are common. Check for corrosion of suspension parts and around the mountings, too. Steering-wise, look for PAS fluid leaks from the pump and rack while stiffness can be a sign that the steering column UJ is seizing. The main problem with the brakes is the inboard rear drums which are a pain to service and often get overlooked, so ensure they are operating okay.
6. Trim materials weren’t especially robust, and the pale fabrics are easily soiled, so don’t be surprised if the cabin is a bit tatty. And while most parts are available, bear in mind that refurbishment is a pricey business. It’s not unusual to find water damage either; condensation will damage the roof lining, causing it to sag, and will also play havoc with the electrics so check everything works. And the wiper mechanism can be troublesome, and a proper fix can require dashboard removal leading to some being bodged. Lastly, check the pop-up headlamps are working properly; they used a vacuum system and sorting problems with the solenoids and pipework can be a frustrating business.
OUR VERDICT
The combination of sharp looks and impressive dynamics are very tempting but care is needed as the Elite/Eclat can hide the sort of problems that risk laying waste to both bank account and sanity. A good one, on the other hand, will be a very special experience indeed, so get specialist advice before taking the plunge.
Prices for the Elite and Eclat are pretty similar, with the former edging it perhaps, but it mainly comes down to preference. That and condition, which is the most important thing when considering either model. Interest and values were low at one time but that’s beginning to change as the Lotus wedge models become more sought after, but while cheap examples are out there a full restoration will never make financial sense. Think very carefully before taking on a project.