VOLVO 1800E REVIEW

Sporting attractive coupé bodywork with trademark sturdy mechanicals underneath, the Volvo 1800E changed the motoring public’s view of the Swedish marque

Volvo had always been known for a focus on safety rather than speed, so it came as a bit of a surprise when it unveiled the Volvo P1800 in 1960 at the Brussels Motor Show, a sleek and sporty car that would go on to become a star of the silver screen driven by Roger Moore in The Saint. The PV544 that preceded it did have sporting pretensions and was used extensively in rallying, but it didn’t have the same sex appeal as the lower and more attractive P1800. It did have a strong engine though, and it was this 1778cc B18 design that powered the P1800, followed by the 1986cc B20. It’s beginnings were not as smooth as its waist lines, as Volkswagen forbade coachbuilder Karmann from producing the P1800, for fear of Volvo’s car offering too much competition to its own products. A rocky period followed, but the Swedish firm eventually struck a deal with Jensen, who agreed to use its under-utilised production facilities at Linwood and West Bromwich to build 10,000 P1800s. In the end only 6000 cars were made by Jensen, with 4500 destined for the export market.

VITAL STATISTICS

Volvo 1800E

Engine                                    1986cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  130bhp@6000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 130lb ft@3500rpm

Top speed                                115mph

0-60mph                                  9sec

Consumption                            25mpg 

Gearbox                                    4-spd manual + Overdrive

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
A quick way to gauge the state of an 1800 is to check the sills. The correct Volvo curved sill assembly has two noticeable vertical grooves below the door. If they aren’t there, either the wrong sill has been fitted or, more ominously, the sill may be full of filler.

The front panels are prone to rusting along their trailing edge. The areas around the headlights also go, as do the front wings where they meet the sills and wheelarch lips. Inner wings can rot badly, so have a good look inside the wheelarch. Whatever rust is visible on the exterior, there’s likely to be much worse beneath the surface, so be vigilant. 

ENGINE

Both B18 and B20 engines were built to last, with some cars known to have racked up an astronomical 2 million miles. But there are still things to look out for. Open the bonnet and check the top of the block for any oil leaks. If the engine has been cleaned recently, check once again at the end of your test drive. Various gaskets and seals can go and can be a bit of a pain to replace. Check that the oil and coolant levels are as they should be, and that both are clean and fresh. A compression test will be the best guide to the engine’s health, but you should at least check the oil filler for mayonnaise if this is not possible. Start the engine from cold and allow it to get up to operating temperature. Get a friend to accelerate hard and check for smoke from the tail pipe. Blue smoke suggests internal wear and will necessitate a full rebuild – not a cheap undertaking. You should expect to see 40psi of oil pressure when the engine is running.
Finally, listen for any knocks or rattles from the engine. Any odd noises coming from the bottom end should be a serious cause for concern. Don’t be put off by a rough sounding idle though, these engines never ran like sewing machines.

RUNNING GEAR

All gearboxes fitted to the P1800 are bombproof, providing they’ve been kept well topped up with oil. However, this may not always be the case. Listen for any whining or graunching noises, both indicate a well-worn diff that is due a rebuild. Gears should slot in without much effort and shouldn’t pop out – walk away if they do. All UK models were fitted with overdrive as standard, so make sure this is working as advertised on your test drive. If it doesn’t work it is most likely a failed relay, but could be a trapped wire, which will be a nightmare to track down.
Wheels in post 1970 cars use an alloy hub and steel rim, which can separate with time. Make sure these have been replaced with later units, which are a direct swap. There were two types of rear axle available, EMV or Spicer – the Spicer unit is by far the better option. 

INTERIOR

It’s important you make sure the interior is in good condition as you can spend a small fortune bringing a P1800 interior back up to spec. Check the seats haven’t collapsed and are free from rips and tears. Don’t overlook anything – door cards and dash trim are expensive, and even a set of carpets will set you back somewhere in the region of £350. Electrics are fairly straightforward. Look for an aftermarket electric fan and check that it is in working order. If not, make doubly sure you check for headgasket damage. 

OUR VERDICT

The P1800 combines two of the most desirable traits in a classic car; good looks and reliability. A reputation for weapons-grade engines and gearboxes presents a classic that is there to be driven, and driven far. Sumptuous handling, comfortable interior and low running costs make for a world-beating grand tourer. The P1800 isn’t just a capable classic: it’s also a sound investment. Prices have been steadily rising, and fortunately, there are still decent cars within the reach of the average enthusiast. If you want one - buy now and improve over time, before you cant afford to.

Combining exotic looks and rarity, the 1800E doesn’t seem like an obvious daily-drive choice – but don’t let that put you off. If you can find one with a good body and invest in some decent rust-protection, then that scenario is perfectly feasible. Yes, the earlier Jensen-built P1800 is famed as Roger Moore’s transport in The Saint, but later models had a useful power hike thanks to modern fuel-injection. 

Introduced in 1970, the 1800E used the beefed-up B20E engine. With that Bosch D-Jetronic fuel injection system and revised camshaft working in glorious Scandinavian harmony, Volvo wrung 130bhp from its two-litre engine, without sacrificing fuel economy. Top speed was just shy of 120mph and acceleration from 0-60 took 9.5 seconds – impressive figures for the day. In addition, the 1800E introduced four-wheel disc brakes – previously the 1800 series had front discs and rear drums. 

Don’t be tempted by bodged cars, as they really are more trouble than they’re worth. But get it right and you won’t regret plumping for a classic Swede. Hooray for the Einspritzung!

VOLVO 240 REVIEW

When launched in 1974, the Volvo 200-series was the most startling adherent of the move towards providing good passive safety in all road cars. It was a heavily revised update of the 100-series and was available in four-cylinder 244/245 form, and six-cylinder V6 264/265 form, powered by an engine jointly-developed with Peugeot and Renault. The range lasted until 1993. With many solid examples left, it makes a sound everyday classic. Here's what to watch for.

VOLVO 850 REVIEW

Understated yet radical, the Volvo 850 provided buyers with a chance to drive 150mph, with their dog in the back. The big Swedish car maker made an absolute brute of a machine that came in both saloon and estate forms. Not only did the five-cylinder lump have a brilliant bark, it could back it up thanks to its racing pedigree. Tom Walkinshaw Racing infamously prepared an estate version for the 1944 BTCC season. 

VITAL STATISTICS

Volvo 850 T5

Engine           2319cc, 5-cyl, OHC

Power            225bhp @ 5200rpm

Torque          221lb.ft @ 2000rpm

Top speed   149mph

0-60mph        7.2sec

Economy      29mpg

Gearbox        5spd manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

Stone chips are a major concern, as it is wide and low, with hard suspension. The T5R had even lower suspension, and a front splitter to scrape along speed bumps. Generally the Swedish barge doesn’t suffer from rust, although one major rot point are the exhaust rear hangers, which are an easy fix. Estates are obviously very practical, which means some may have been used as a make-shift van. Check the roof linings to see if they’ve been abused. Tow bars are another tell-tale sign it might have been worked hard.

ENGINE AND GEARBOX

Turbos are a very prominent feature of the Volvo, and is an important part of what makes it so quick. It’s important that there’s no blue smoke when the turbo is on boost, as this can indicate a worn turbo, turbo oil seals or worn piston rings. The turbo should begin working at about 2500rpm and reach maximum boost at 3000rpm. The boost gauge (if it has one, non standard feature) should reach approximately three-quarters of the way. If it doesn’t, there could be a problem with the turbo. The Electronic Throttle Module failing is a common fault, and easily identifiable by a stuttering engine and a lack of power. One way to check this is to rev the car to about 4000rpm and take your foot off the accelerator; it should fall smoothly back to idle. Timing belts need changing every 5-8 years depending upon use, it’s well worth checking when this was last done.

RUNNING GEAR

The R suspension is lower than the stock T5 by about 30mm, which is important to remember for people with bad backs or people who like any sort of travel in their suspension. Some will be equipped with a self-leveling system for the rear suspension, most commonly found on estates. If it looks suspiciously low at the back then this may have failed. Suspension parts are often modified, so ask the owner about any they may have made. Brake components are also rife for change, with owners often upgrading to a 302mm disc to aid braking performance. Make sure if they’ve been upgraded in size, the hoses have been upgraded as well. These Volvos are notorious for their front tyre wear, mainly due to it being front-wheel-drive. Significantly more worn tyres at the front than rear can also be a sign of hoonery.

INTERIOR

Air conditioning units were known to fail within their first two to four years. If this is the case it requires taking the whole dash out, meaning costs of up to £1000 to put right. Heater matrixes have also been known to fail.

There was a recall on heated seats effecting 1996 models. Although it is most likely they have been replaced, it’s still important to ask. Some models came with electronically controlled seats which can fail over time. Expensive to put right, but can be used as a bargaining tool when trying to get money off.

ELECTRICS

T5s and T5Rs are usually specced to within an inch of their lives, meaning there are more electrical items, and more to go wrong. Most have climate control and CD multichangers, which add to the expense when they go wrong. It’s important to check that the warning lights are working, especially as the ABS light is known to fail, which can be a wider sign of ECU trouble.

VERDICT

Why do you want one? 

There’s something oddly irresistible about a large saloon or estate that will do 150mph. You don’t really need to transport a large quantity of flat pack furniture from IKEA, but you want to. With prices starting from £1600 for useable versions, it’s also a performance bargain, and the engines can easily get 200,000 miles plus if well maintained. If you’re after something left field, Swedish and fiery, you’ve found it. 

VOLVO AMAZON REVIEW

Hard wearing and reliable, we examine this Swedish workhorse with rally pedigree

The Amazon is a fantastically usable car that is a more accomplished drive than many other, much younger classics. Both B16 and B18 engines provide more than enough power for keeping up with modern traffic and sturdy head-wearing gearboxes make changing ratios a pleasure. 

Despite its relatively large size, the Amazon can be made to handle very well, as proven by its huge popularity as a classic rally car. Indeed, there are thousands of performance upgrades for motorsport applications, from improved suspension set-ups to engine components. 

Standard cars tend to suffer from body-roll through the bends, but this can easily be cured by a specialist and a flash of your credit card.

But this car’s real strength is its build quality, not just its handling characteristics. It may not set the world alight in standard guise, but you can rest safe in the knowledge that it won’t rust away overnight.

VITAL STATISTICS

Volvo Amazon

Engine                                    1778cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  86bhp@4800rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 107lb ft@3500rpm

Top speed                                96mph

0-60mph                                  14sec

Consumption                            24-29mpg 

Gearbox                                    4-spd manual/optional O/D

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

The Volvo Amazon is typical of Swedish build quality of the era: tough, rugged and built to last. Thick steel panels would be more at home on a battle tank, and copious rust proofing means that the bodywork is well protected. But as with all cars that have been around for 57 years, corrosion is sure to have taken its toll. Wheel arches will begin to rust around the edges, and the front of sills will be vulnerable where stone chips have damaged the paintwork. Make sure the sills are straight and true. Headlights and tail lamps are common water traps, so inspect closely where they meet the bodywork. Fortunately, replacement body panels are readily available.

Windscreen rubbers will eventually become brittle and perish, especially if the car has been left exposed to the elements. Have a poke around to make sure water hasn’t crept behind the seals, as rust can run amok and cause structural damage. It can be difficult to spot if only given a casual glance. Use a magnet to check for any shoddy repairs or lumps of filler, especially at the lower corners of the windscreen.

Brightwork abounds on the Amazon including door handles, bumpers, door mirrors and accent strips. By now it will likely be dull and weathered, and have lost most of its lustre. Check for pitting and corrosion, dented bumpers and shopping trolley collisions.

ENGINE

Volvo engines of the period have a reputation for being hardy, reliable and capable of withstanding a lot of punishment. Thankfully, this is true of the 1.8 and 2-litre, four-cylinder motors used in the Amazon. Both engines are tough and will reach moon-and-back mileages with just regular servicing. Check that all fluids are clean and fresh, and look for evidence of regular servicing in the history file. 

Fibre timing gear has been known to fail, and will be clear by a loud rattling noise coming from the front of the engine. Replacement steel units are available, but will be relatively expensive.

ELECTRICS

The top-model 300SE and 300SEL had air suspension, which was high-tech stuff for the early 1960s. The ride it gives is quite remarkable, but problems can be very expensive indeed to fix, and parts are not plentiful. Buy an air-sprung Fintail with your eyes wide open, and have the phone numbers of a specialist and your bank manager close at hand.

RUNNING GEAR

Gearboxes share the same reputation for reliability and toughness as engines. They are well-engineered and should provide a precise, smooth gear change. The brass selector at the top of the ’box can wear, making ratio changes much more vague, but this can easily be replaced. Be more critical if any grinding noises can be heard, if it jumps out of gear. Check the history file for signs of regular servicing. 

BRAKES

Suspension is simple and easy to work on, and fortunately, parts are readily available. Indeed, most components can still be bought new directly from Volvo. Steering can feel sloppy, but this shouldn’t be too big a problem. If the master cylinder is overfilled with hydraulic fluid it can degrade fibre joints in the steering column. Replacements are cheap and easy to fit, so are worth replacing regardless.  

INTERIOR

Interior seats and trim are utilitarian and hard wearing, so should have survived well. Red interiors are thought to be the most comfortable, but are prone to fading if exposed to sunlight for extended periods. Sunlight will also attack the dashboard covering, eventually causing it to crack and warp. Though replacements are available for left-hand drive cars, there is currently no provision for UK models.

OUR VERDICT

Many classic owners claim to use their cars on a daily basis, but the Amazon is one of the few classics that can really handle such regular use. Thick gauge steel and heavy duty panels allow the Amazon to stand up to the harshest of Swedish winters, and heavy-duty engines are renowned in the classic community for being able to cope with huge mileages.

For when things do go wrong, fantastic specialist support means you’ll never struggle to carry out repairs or improvements, and affordable and plentiful parts supplies will be a revelation to those with more obscure 

VOLVO 480 ES REVIEW

As a wedge-shaped, electronics-packed sports estate, the 480ES came right out of left-field for sensible Volvo during the 1980s.

Volvo in the 1980s wasn’t the world’s most exciting car company. The 480ES was intended to, well, not exactly change that, but at least inject a bit of fizz into a range that had rather lacked it since the demise of the 1800ES in 1973. Launched in 1985, the quirky streamlined wedge that was the 480ES looked completely different to anything else in the Swedish firm’s line-up (although as an estate, it did somewhat conform to the view many had of Volvo). The 1721cc engine was shared with the Renault 11 – then a collaborative partner with Volvo – and was tuned by Porsche, while Lotus tweaked the suspension. Inside was a gimmicky digital display, all the rage during the mid-1980s.  

In 1989, a turbocharged version joined the line-up, but only offered 120bhp to the standard variant’s 109bhp. This was followed in 1992 by an upgrade to two litres and a genuine all-Volvo engine to improve reliability. The 480ES was discontinued in 1995, but the 440 hatchback and 460 saloon offshoots continued through to 1997.     

VITAL STATISTICS

ENGINE                                  1721cc/4-cyl/OHC

POWER                                  109bhp@5800rpm

TORQUE                             103lb ft@4000rpm

MAXIMUM SPEED             12mph

0-60MPH                                10.3sec

FUEL CONSUMPTION      28.8mpg

TRANSMISSION                   FWD, five-spd manual/four-spd auto

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Body matters

Despite it being a Volvo, 480s can and do rust. Prime areas are the sills, rear wheelarches, roof edges around the windscreen and door bottoms. The area behind the bumper also likes to corrode. Look for straight panel gaps – uneven ones could be the result of previous accident damage. The biggest issue with the 480ES is that it is prone to leaks, usually around the rear lamps (which will allow water into the boot area), above the rear side windows, via the sunroof or the front bulkhead. Rear lamps often discolour and go brittle.

Chassis concerns

If you do suspect an accident (see above) then get underneath to look for any kinks or ripples. It’s also wise to check the sills and floorpan from beneath, as well as look for any impact damage – these are quite low-slung machines after all.

Engine issues

Both the 1.7-litre Renault and two-litre Volvo engines are resilient enough, although it’s the larger and later Volvo unit that is the toughest of the bunch. It was prone to using oil though. Usual checks apply: a full service history is always a bonus (especially as Volvo did a number of in-service improvements), listen for any deep rumbles from within, look for blue smoke on start-up and acceleration and check for signs of overheating which could signal head gasket issues – in which case oil will be getting into the water and vice versa. If you’re fortunate enough to find one of the rare Turbos, make sure the turbocharger is doing its stuff and boosting properly when you accelerate.       

Transmission trials

Clutch cable failure is a common malady – if the pedal grates or feels stiff when pushed, suspect this is about to occur. Gearboxes don’t often give many problems, but on high mileage examples, the synchromesh can start to feel weak.

Suspension stories

Steering should be very sharp (all examples had power steering as standard too) so any vagueness should sound alarm bells. It’s quite likely to be worn bushes, which will be backed up by any banging or crashing over bumps during your test drive.    

The inside story

The 480ES became quite notorious for poor electrics, so check everything inside works, especially the dash digital ‘infocentre’ as well as the windows. Make sure the pop-up headlamps rise and retract promptly and together. Wet carpets or a musty smell suggest leaks have struck. Air conditioning, if fitted, should blow cold if so set – often it doesn’t.

OUR VERDICT

Well, aside from the obvious – it’s got very cool pop-up headlamps – the main reason you want one is because it’s just not an obvious Volvo. It’s also been largely forgotten by many, yet has an enthusiastic following among enthusiasts in the know. Think of it as a more practical, more robust Triumph TR7 with gadgets, and you wouldn’t be too far from the truth. As a sports car – of sorts – it is surprisingly effective with handling that’s enjoyably great. And while the 480ES may not be quite as tough as its bigger, less racy siblings, it’s still instilled with Volvo’s traditional qualities of safety and solidity.

As production continued, the early faults were ironed out, so the later cars are the best of the bunch to go for. At the moment, they’re all still pretty cheap to snap up too.   

VOLVO 120-SERIES REVIEW

The Amazon may have forged Volvo’s robust reputation but care is still needed when buying one...

As far as most of the world is concerned, it all starts here. The Amazon – originally known as the Amason until German scooter manufacturer Kriedler claimed it as a trademark, then officially titled the 120-series – was the first Volvo to be widely exported beyond Scandinavian shores. Its destinations included the UK, where we first received the sturdy Swede in 1957. Engineered with a solidity that few other manufacturers could match, it set the blueprint for Volvo build quality and dependability. As a result, Britain – or at least a large part of its middle classes – fell in love with the marque and remained loyal throughout subsequent generations.

Amazons possess a surprising nimbleness despite their air of durability. Originally with 1583cc engines, they were upgraded to 1778cc in 1961, when front disc brakes were standardised on the twin-carb variants, then again to 1986cc (for two-door variants) in 1968. The 115bhp 123GT was the most exciting performer and designed to capitalise on Volvo’s rally successes. Production ended in 1970, by which time the new 140 was on the scene.

VITAL STATISTICS

ENGINE                      17786cc/4-cyl/OHV

POWER                      115bhp@6000rpm

TORQUE                    112lb ft@4000rpm

MAXIMUM SPEED    104mph

0-60MPH                    13.8sec

Fuel consumption     23-30mpg

TRANSMISSION       RWD, four-spd man + O/D

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Body beautiful

These cars resist rust well, but if the front or rear screens have leaked, it will cause big problems. This will affect the bulkheads and footwells; look from inside the engine bay and in the car itself. Other known grot spots are the double-skinned rear wheelarches and the rear inner panels. Look inside the boot for a rotten spare wheel well and check the edge of the bootlid too. On estates, scrutinise the split tailgate carefully. Front wings, around the wheelarches and headlamps, plus the lower edges of doors, can suffer from tinworm and, naturally, check all along the sills too. The bonnet edge and seams around the grille are also vulnerable. Front wings are still available, but pricey.   

Engine issues

Engines are tough, but the early 1580cc unit isn’t as strong as its successors because it has a three-bearing crank rather than the later five-bearing one. Regular oil changes are the secret to a long life, as is using the correct Volvo oil filter with a non-return valve. Listen for noisy bearings plus loud timing gear. Check the temperature; if it’s running cool, then it may be a failed thermostat, which will harm fuel economy. Needles in the original Stromberg carburettors can wear, so many owners upgrade to SUs instead. Warm oil pressure should be 40psi at idle, or 50-55psi on the move. 

Transmission revamp?

Most cars have a four-speed manual gearbox, but three-speeders and automatics are just as resilient. A manual car with overdrive is a wise choice. The rubber in the centre of the propshaft wears out in time; unfortunately, choosing which one of the three possible replacements is the right one to fit is a challenge.

What lies beneath?

Suspension bushes – and those for the wishbones in particular – wear out. Coil springs have a tendency to break too, towards their bottoms. Earlier cars have a rear radius arm that rusts badly, so get underneath and check it. On estates, the radius arms are heavy duty but can still fail. Brakes are generally trouble-free, although the diaphragm on 1.6 and 1.8 Girling servos can perish and allow brake fluid into the engine.

The inside story

Interiors are simple and hard wearing, though certain items of trim can be difficult or expensive to source. That includes exterior items too – especially the complex bumpers. Electrical problems are usually down to bad earths, corrosion or a blown 30amp fuse in the engine bay. Replacements are hard to come by.

OUR VERDICT

The Volvo Amazon manages to combine kudos and credibility with engineering integrity and ruggedness. These cars are among the most well-built of their era yet still retain a sporty character thanks to their rally adventures – something you can’t really say that about the boxier Volvos that followed.

With many European saloons and estates of the 1950s and 1960s, you need to constantly keep on top of issues such as rust and mechanics. That’s much less the case with the Amazon; you can use them every day, in all weathers, and they won’t protest too much. They also have typical Volvo practicality, seating five in comfort with room for all their paraphernalia in the capacious boot. The estates are even better at load lugging. Amazons are fun but tough.

VOLVO P1800 (1961-1973) REVIEW

Volvo had always been known for a focus on safety rather than speed, so it came as a bit of a surprise when it unveiled the sporty-looking P1800 at the Brussels Motor Show in 1960. Power came from a a 1778cc engine, followed by the 1986cc B20. The first batch of cars were built by Jensen in Britain, but only 6500 of the 10,000 originally contracted were made before production moved back to Sweden after a few years.