The Honda Beat was one of several small sports cars conceived to take advantage of Japans tax-efficient K class. Powered by a diminutive 656cc three-cylinder motor, the mid-engined Honda Beat had a healthy 75bhp and weighed just 1,700lbs. With a top speed of 90mph, 60mph came up in just 9 seconds. Produced between 1991 and 1995, the Beat was never imported officially into the UK, the 100 or so examples believed to be here having been brought in privately.
HONDA CRX REVIEW
The CRX stands out from the 1980s crowd. We offer buying advice for these quirky Japanese hot hatchbacks...
The Honda CRX is proof that size isn’t everything. Offering go-kart thrills in a useable package, this is a true classic.
Think of a classic hot hatchback and GTi offerings from Peugeot and Volkswagen spring to mind. But there is one oft-overlooked machine that will change your outlook on performance cars the Honda CRX.
To view the CRX as a sporting derivative of the Honda Civic is to underestimate this diminutive Japanese offering. Front-wheel drive it may be, but Honda’s engineering prowess transformed the shopping trolley underpinnings. Lithe, nimble and coupled to a rev-happy 1488cc fuel-injected engine, the lightweight sport-hatch body meant the CRX was more than just a pretty face. Light weight ensured the little car could fly, putting 118mph within reach.
Reaching the UK in 1984, a 125bhp, 1590cc 4-cylinder engine quickly replaced the original. Competitively priced against the likes of the Fiat X1/9 and Ford Escort XR3i, the CRX was supplanted by a redesigned version in 1987.Provided you can find one, this tiny 2+2 is a genuine bargain. Offering frugal fuel consumption and Japanese reliability, the CRX could be one of the smartest car purchases you’ll ever make.
On paper, the CRX is nothing out of the ordinary. After all, front-wheel drive, a monocoque bodyshell and torsion bar front and semi-independent rear suspension (replaced by a fully independent system in 1987) are hardly the stuff of dreams. It’s the way the components are used that makes it remarkable.That chassis is taut and setup for high-speed cornering, the little engine is big hearted and hardrevving, and the 2+2 bodyshell positions it occupants close to the road, performance-car style. Thanks to Honda’s mechanical trickery (especially with post- 1990 VTEC valve gear), performance is electrifying.
Handling is inspired, being as lithe and as nimble as you’d expect from a car of such light weight. Tackling twists and turns is something the grippy CRX was designed to cope with. Servo-assisted brakes make light work of stopping, and the lack of power steering is barely noticeable. Within, the rear seats may be suitable only for children, but their folding nature helps to exploit the rear-hatch’s useful – if not brilliant – luggage space. Hip-hugging front seats match the car’s hard-cornering nature.
VITAL STATISTICS
HONDA CRX
Engine 1595cc/4-cyl/DOHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 150bhp@7500rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 106lb ft@6500rpm
Top speed 129mph
0-60mph 7.9sec
Consumption 34mpg
Gearbox 5-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
In common with many older Japanese vehicles, rust is a major consideration with the CRX. You should start your inspection with the floorpans, which typically corrode at the corners. Watch out for any hastily-welded repairs that may have been carried out here to nurse a car through an MoT. Ask if the owner has been diligent with rustproofing measures, as this can substantially lengthen the CRX’s lifespan.
Plastic bodykits were once popular with many owners, so if the car you’re inspecting has had additional panels fitted, check that this has been done well. Corrosion can set in beneath plastic trim, and can go unchecked until serious damage has been done. Plastic sill trims are notorious for this, so check very closely for indication of corrosion – bubbling around the trim edges or bleeding from underneath the panels are telltale signs. The front nose cone is plastic, rather than steel, in addition to the bumpers. As a result, impact damage is a problem in these areas.
ENGINE
Honda has long prided itself on reliability, and the CRX is no exception. All of the different capacity engines are long-lived, and should prove straightforward for the home mechanic to keep in good order. However, beware of examples which have led a hard life – excessive smoking could point to worn valve seats or bores. Ask if the cambelt has been changed every 60,000 miles or five years, and that the service schedule has been adhered to. Check that the gearchange is smooth and graunch-free – second gear sychromesh can weaken on high-mileage ‘boxes. Clutches can also wear out if abused – however, replacement of these shouldn’t be too expensive.
RUNNING GEAR
With the steering on full-lock, listen out for a clicking sound from the front wheels – this indicates that the CV joints are nearing the end of their lives. If the rubber boot has split, then this will have allowed the joint’s grease to spill out, which will lead to it wearing out. Fortunately, replacement CV joint kits are readily available.
Dampers should be in tip-top condition or else road-holding is likely to be impaired. Bes sure to watch out for
any buckling to the alloy wheels, which is usually as a result of kerbing.
INTERIOR
Outer panels are as vulnerable to the rust bug as the inner structure, so look out for bubbling or more obvious rust damage to the door bottoms, rear quarters and tailgate. On second-generation cars, the tailgate features a second glass panel positioned vertically, in addition to the slanted rear window. Check these glass pieces very carefully for damage and for signs of cracking.
Having once been the darling of boy racers, accident damage is a key concern with any survivor of the model. Look out for evidence of poor crash repairs, most notably any distortion and rippling of the inner body structure, including inner wings and floorpans. Overspray and excessive use of filler are also clues that all is not well. Honda’s build quality is still world-renowned, so the cars would not have had uneven panel gaps from new – if this is so, then further investigation is needed.
OUR VERDICT
Despite their rarity in the UK, the CRX is very affordable but that doesn’t mean that Honda’s pocket-rocket is a lesser car than its better-appreciated contemporaries. Offering a remarkably exciting driving experience, the tiny 1980s hatchback is a well-kept secret in the classic car world, marking the point that sophisticated, ultra-sharp Japanese technology started to dominate the automotive world.
Provided you can track down one which hasn’t been ravaged by three decades of rust, then you’re unlikely to stop grinning from the moment you slip behind the wheel. The CRX makes sense for the head, as well as the heart, with its meagre thirst for fuel and Honda reliability. Rarely does a car provide so much enjoyment, for such little outlay. When you get into a Fintail, you can’t fail to be impressed by how spacious it is, especially compared with modern cars. You sit high up on a fairly firm seat and the wheel in front of you with its chrome horn ring seems just huge. Then there’s that extraordinary vertical strip speedometer, a column change (in most cars) and an umbrella handbrake under the dash.
None of the engines is particularly quiet, a failing of most OHC designs of the time. Worn engines can be very noisy at the top end, though. The gears slot in nicely, although the intermediates don’t feel ideally spaced. Automatics work well enough but the changes can be a bit rough.
On the road, you’ll quickly adapt to the car’s natural rhythm. The suspension is very soft, and on later cars a Boge self-levelling strut at the rear was used to prevent tail-end droop when laden. All that of course makes for plenty of suspension wallow over bumps and plenty of cornering roll, but a Fintail soon begins to feel right, and after a while you’ll forget how old the car is and will settle down to enjoying the drive. That’s it – you’re hooked!
Think of a classic hot hatchback and GTi offerings from Peugeot and Volkswagen spring to mind. But there is one oft-overlooked machine that will change your outlook on performance cars: the Honda CRX. To view the CRX as a sporting derivative of the Civic is to underestimate this diminutive Japanese offering. Front-wheel drive it may be, but Honda’s engineering prowess transformed the shopping trolley underpinnings. Lithe, nimble and coupled to a rev-happy 1488cc fuel-injected engine, the lightweight sport-hatch body meant the CRX was more than just a pretty face. Light weight ensured the little car could fly, putting 118mph within reach.
Reaching the UK in 1984, a 125bhp, 1590cc 4-cylinder engine quickly replaced the original. Competitively priced against the likes of the Fiat X1/9 and Ford Escort XR3i, the CRX was supplanted by a redesigned version in 1987. Provided you can find one, this tiny 2+2 is a genuine bargain. Offering frugal fuel consumption and Japanese reliability, the CRX could be one of the smartest car purchases you’ll ever make.
HONDA NSX REVIEW
The road-car NSX gives race-bred performance. But has this cult supercar character enough to be a compelling classic?
Prodigious. That’s the level of ability of this supercar from Honda. You can trickle it around town forever, and it’ll never overheat or let you down. It’ll always start from cold, warm or hot. And the auto gearbox makes it completely useable, to the extent you’d lend it to your mum. And there’s the top problem for this nigh-perfect coupé. You’d lend it to your mum because, like any Honda, anyone could drive it.
But surely the character of a supercar should be that it requires some degree of skill to pilot? The notion of a supercar is that it makes greater requirements of that pilot, so they can fully appreciate – and then exploit – the performance advantage driving a supercar affords. Yet the NSX is the consummate sheep in wolf’s clothing.Styling is toned down, anyone can drive one, but only the truly committed will get close to appreciating the car’s serious virtue, so well does it hide it.
No matter. At 20-odd years old, this Japanese coupé can still cut it on the road, as a cognoscenti choice and now, as a serious classic alternative: and prices are still accessable.
VITAL STATISTICS
HONDA NSX
Engine 2977cc/V6/dohc-vvc
Power (bhp@rpm) 255bhp@6800rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 135lb/ft@3500rpm
Top speed 158mph
0-60mph 5.0sec
Consumption 22.7mpg
Gearbox 4-speed automatic
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
There’s little to check in the way of bodywork nasties on an NSX – it’s aluminium – save for the usual probems facing high powered supercars. The car should not be an accident-repaired example but a cherished, never been off the road one. Paying for an HPI check on something at 20 years old is an unusual thing to advise, but it’s peace of mind for a prospective buyer.
Also, check the door hinges for wear, especially on the driver’s door. Plus gas struts can weaken where they hold the lids up front and rear. A close examination of the forward facing sections of the panelwork may reveal stone chips – some owners have clear polymer self-adhesive film fitted to ‘protect the paint’ but it also works well to disguise higher mileage. Tell-tale dirt marks where it may have existed (rear arches, around lower front-end) should be microscopically examined. Windscreens can delaminate, and replacing one is an expensive task. Examine the bumpers for repaired scrapes.
ENGINE
The engine is a stunning gem. It is all alloy construction, yet has a bulletproof mien that allows owners to leave the cars for over a year, jump in them and take them on 200-mile journeys with no complaints. Coolant needs to be good quality and changed to maker’s spec, to avoid long-term particulate build-up in the alloy waterways. Also, check the car has a full service history with experienced Honda main-agents. There are few specialists around for these, and unusually, the maker’s garages seem to actually care and work diligently on these cars even as they age.
RUNNING GEAR
The tyres are known to wear fast, with barely 10,000 miles achieved between (expensive) re-rubbering at each corner. Then you’re facing the usual items that might cause problems on a 160mph car – brake discs and pads can need replacement, radiators begin to age and electrical connections can start to cause intermittent problems. Ensure your potential purchase has every item working before parting with any cash. Standard-fit in-car-entertainment was of good quality, but many cars are now fitted with aftermarket CD players, sometimes of dubious merit and quality. Try and refit the factory equipment to keep the car’s value higher.
OUR VERDICT
The NSX is rare – only 6000 per year were built. Buy one, and you’ll have a car that makes you feel truly special, but one that in these straightened financial times doesn’t make you look like you’re flaunting excess cash. As a mid-engined ownership proposition it is cheaper to run than Porsche or Ferrari contemporaries, and comes closer to making sense as a sole classic/everyday purchase than possibly any other 20-year old-car. It’s classless, can fit in at a track day or classic show. Plus you can fit loads of luggage in it. And that can’t be a bad thing.
HONDA S2000 REVIEW
The Honda S2000 may have ceased production a mere half-decade ago, but from the minute it was unveiled it was guaranteed to become collectible. A no-compromise roadster of the classic rear-wheel drive two-seater variety, the S2000 was intended to be launched for Honda's 50th birthday. But proving that compromise wasn't a word in the Honda dictionary, when company execs tested the prototype S2000 ad felt it needed further work, the project was delayed by a year.
As a result the S2000 was revealed in time for Honda's 51st birthday, and since then it's gone down a storm with press and owners alike. And why wouldn't it? The S2000 looks great, it goes like stink and it's fabulous to drive. Yet you can buy one from just £4000. Why wouldn't you?
VITAL STATISTICS
UK-spec
Engine 1997cc/4-cyl/DOHC
Power 237bhp@8300rpm
Torque 153lb ft@7500rpm
Top speed 149mph
0-60mph 5.8sec
Economy 28mpg
Gearbox 6-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
Thanks to the fitment of some plastic panels (such as the front and rear bumpers), an aluminium bonnet plus modern (but not generously applied) rustproofing, there should be no significant corrosion on any S2000 - especially if the owner has invested in some wax treatment. But accident damage is another matter, especially on older cars with their less well developed suspension.
Lift the bonnet and look at the inner wings, checking for signs of rippling or welding. Do the same with the boot floor; any poor crash repairs will be obvious in these areas.
Whilst rust anywhere is unlikely, it's still worth analysing the inner rear wheelarches and the leading edge of the sills. Stone chips that have been left to fester can result in corrosion, although it's unlikely to have amounted to much, yet.
Honda offered an optional aluminium hard top, which came as standard on GT-spec cars; there are also aftermarket hard tops available. A fitting kit is required to install a hard top, so any S2000 that hasn't previously featured one will need to have the necessary parts fitted. A used roof, stand, cover and fitting kit can be bought for around £1,000 from owners' forums; fitting details are online at tinyurl.com/75fzlj. Any car with a hard top would also come with a stand and cover, so check they're there. All S2000s are fitted with an electrically retractable soft top whether or not there's a hard top with the car. The soft top does a superb job of keeping the elements out, so if you're used to flappy useless hoods usually fitted to older classics, you're in for a pleasant shock. The soft top is easy to use, so while a hard top is nice for security (and added refinement), the lack of one shouldn't be a deal breaker. You need to check the soft top closely, along with its mechanism, so put it up and down a few times to ensure it works smoothly - be especially wary of cars that have had their hard tops fitted for months (or even years).
Check the hood material around the side windows, as it can wear - also ensure that the plastic window of a pre-MArch 2002 car isn't damaged. LAter cars got a glass rear window; a replacement plastic screen costs around £400, while converting to glass is closer to £1000.
ENGINES
The magnificent naturally-aspirated VTEC four-pot that powers all S2000s is nothing less than a masterpiece. It'll rev to 9000rpm and thanks to the fitment of variable valve timing it's worth venturing towards the red line on a regular basis, to savour the howl as well as the punch. All UK cars got a 1997cc unit, but US and Japanese cars were fitted with a 2157cc unit from 2003 and 2005 respectively.
Very complex, the VTEC engine is nonetheless generally reliable as long as it's properly maintained. That means regular servicing; the original schedule stipulated every 9000 miles or 12 months. Thanks to the fulfilment of a timing chain there's no cambelt to renew, but a healthy engine will get through up to a litre of oil very 1000 miles - and nothing less than fully synthetic will do. Such a high oil consumption has led to lots of engines being damaged through their bearing shells breaking up from a lack of lubrication, so listen for untoward noises at tickover. If a new engine is required, expect to pay £2000-£3000 for a decent used unit.
There are other things that can go wrong too, so on your test drive, check for any hesitation when pulling away. The most likely culprit will be a failed MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor on top of the inlet manifold - bit it could also be a dodgy lambda sensor. The MAP sensor can sometimes be cleaned up; if not, new ones cost around £40. Meanwhile, there are two lambda sensors which have to be replaced if they fail; new ones cost £170.
Naturally you should expect the engine to deliver smooth; linear power throughout the rev range, but if there's any misfiring it could be down to blocked or dirty injectors; a fuel additive may fix things, or new injectors are £70 apiece. Misfires could also be down to one or more faulty coil packs - there's one for each cylinder, and new ones cost £125 each.
Overheating shouldn't be an issue; if it is, expect major trouble ahead as the engine is all-alloy and doesn't respond well getting too hot. On cars built up to 2003 there shouldn't be any more than three bars showing on the digital temperature read out; later S2000s featured different instrumentation, and on these it's OK for up to seven bars to be showing.
TRANSMISSIONS
Power is transmitted to the rear wheels via a six-speed manual gearbox (there was no auto option) and a Torsen limited-slip diff. You're unlikely to encounter significant problems, aside from a worn-out clutch once 70,000 miles have been racked-up. New ones cost £430.
STEERING & SUSPENSION
Electric power steering was standard from the outset, but early cars were criticised for their lack of feel. Honda responded by fitting a less direct rack in 2004; combined with significant suspension changes, the difference in the driving experience is very noticeable. Whatever is fitted, expect it to be reliable.
More likely to be a problem is the imprecise handling because of split castor bushes and/or misaligned suspension. Repairs are complicated by the fact that the offset bolts through the Metalastik lower wishbone bushes tend to seize, and much cutting plus the wholesale replacement of the wishbones is the only solution.
As if this isn't enough, the radius arms incorporated into the rear suspension design are also fitted with offset bolts through their bushes, and these also seize - putting everything right with aftermarket parts can run to £1000 if it's been neglected. That's why it's worth looking in the service history for evidence of the suspension having been adjusted and greased regularly.
WHEELS & BRAKES
All S2000 were supplied with alloy wheels, initially 16 inches then from 2004 they were 17 inches across. Various designs were fitted; whatever is there it's worth checking for corrosion as many cars were afflicted with it. Some cars got replacement wheels under warranty; if you're a stickler for originality it's worth checking that the correct design is fitted.
With servo-assisted discs all round (ventilated at the front) and anti-lock tech as standard for all cars, the S2000's anchors aren't lacking. However, while the footbrake works superbly, the handbrake is notoriously poor, although it should be able to pass an MoT easily enough. Check that it'll hold the car on an incline; if it doesn't, it should be simply a matter of adjusting and lubricating it.
TRIM & ELECTRICS
Leather trim was standard from the outset, and thanks to the use of good-quality hide there shouldn't be any wear issues unless the car has been left in the sun and the trim has been allowed to dry out and crack up. The bolsters may be worn on high-mileage cars and the stitching could show some signs of wear, but the leather itself should be fine.
The quality of some of the interior plastics left a lot to be desired, especially some of the clips and fixings. The standard radio is poor, so lots of S2000s have an aftermarket unit fitted; whoever installed it will probably have damaged the radio surround as it's fragile.
Predictably, the S2000 features an ECU that manages key aspects of the car, not least of all the fuelling and ignition. By modern standards it's not all that complex and it's possible to buy a diagnostic tool for £40, or somebody on the club forum will probably lend one to you. With one of these you can diagnose faults and also see if there are any electrical or electronics issues in the car's history.
OUR VERDICT
Proving that Honda got the car right at the outset, there were only minor changes to the S2000's specification during its decade of production. However, they were useful changes; early cars were easy to get out of shape which is why the suspension was upgraded several times. By 2005 (for the 2006 model year) ESP was offered and from 2007 it was standard - and it's well worth having. As a result it's worth going for a later car if you can afford one, especially for track day work.
Significantly modified cars should generally be avoided, as reliability might be compromised. The standard car is so good there's really no need for upgrades.
Also be wary of personal imports, especially if they have no service history. Watch too for neglected cars - there's no shortage of tatty S2000s out there but there are lots of minters as well.
The key thing is not to rush into a purchase and buy a dog, only to find that the cost of bringing it up to standard is higher than buying a top example. That's advice that may be sound for any used car - but because the S2000 is such a recent classic, it's easy to assume you can disregard it. You can't...
HONDA INTEGRA TYPE R (1995-2001) REVIEW
The R stands for Racing, so from the outset Honda’s intentions were clear with its Integra Type R. But nobody expected this unassuming coupé to be this good...
It would now be hard to imagine Honda without its Type R division, but until the Integra Type R of 1997 we’d never heard of the Japanese marque’s sporting offshoot. The Japanese market had been able to enjoy a track-ready Integra for a full two years already and in 1992 there had been an NSX Type R for the home market, but for UK buyers this was their first chance to dip into the Type R brand.
It was worth the wait though, as the hotted-up coupé is regarded by many as the best front-wheel drive sportscar ever made. Yes – it really is that good to drive. When Russell Bulgin reviewed it for Car magazine he described how its ‘race car throttle sensitivity and rev lunacy’ combined with ‘fetishistic levels of steering and precision braking.’ He concluded the Type R was ‘as extreme a car as you can buy.’
It’s easy to see why the Integra is so highly regarded, because in typical Honda fashion there were no half measures. The bodyshell was strengthened with extra spot welds and strategically-placed thicker metal, but to offset any weight gain there was a thinner windscreen, lighter wheels plus less soundproofing. Naturally the 1.8-litre engine was also beefed up with high-compression pistons, polished intake ports and a revised VTEC system. The result was 187bhp, 131lb ft of torque and a red line set at a crazy 8700rpm.
Tipping the scales at just 1140kg the Integra Type R, internally codenamed DC2, could despatch the 0-60mph sprint in just 6.2 seconds before topping out at 145mph. But to focus on the stats is to do the Integra a major dis-service; it’s the way the car steers, handles, brakes and rides that makes it such a thriller. One of those rare cars that’s as much at home on the track as the public road, the Honda is good enough to make you revise your opinions if you’re a die-hard rear-wheel drive enthusiast – it really is that good.
VITAL STATISTICS
Engine 1797cc/4-cyl/DOHC
Power 187bhp@8000rpm
Torque 131lb ft@7300rpm
Maximum speed 137mph
0-60mph 6.2sec
Fuel consumption 28-35mpg
Transmission FWD, 5-speed man
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
SHELL SCRUTINY
All UK-market Integra Type Rs initially came in Championship White, although red and black followed in 1999. Many of the cars here weren’t originally sold in the UK; official cars have four circular headlamps while grey imports have rectangular lights, although conversions from UK to JDM (Japanese Domestic Market) are common. If buying an import check the service history, make sure the car is road legal in the UK and that it’s been properly undersealed. Corrosion is a big problem with UK cars; JDM Integras are undersealed, but not as extensively as UK examples. Whatever you’re buying check the rear wheelarches for rust, along with the spare wheel well and the boot, as water gets past the rear light seals.
Thanks to low values, many Integras have passed through the hands of owners with more driving enthusiasm than skill, so scrutinise all panel gaps which should be tight and even. Also check the boot floor and front inner wings for rippling; if you spot any, find another car. JDM cars are more likely to have been crashed than UK editions, and it’s impossible to ascertain their history.
ENGINE EXAM
Despite the stratospheric redline and high specific power output, the B18C twin-cam engine is incredibly reliable if looked after. That means oil changes every 6000 miles using a fully synthetic lubricant, and a fresh cambelt plus new spark plugs every five years or 60,000 miles. The coolant and fuel filters should also have been replaced within the last four years or 48,000 miles. Check that the official Honda air filter is still fitted; aftermarket ones tend to strangle the engine at high revs.
If there are rattles from underneath as the car is driven, the chances are it’s nothing more serious than a loose heatshield on the exhaust; it can be tightened up in minutes. Knocks as the engine is revved is probably because it’s making contact with the bodywork because of a failed rear engine mount, but it’s easily replaced.
TRANSMISSION TEST
The transmission is strong but it’ll take only so much abuse. All Type Rs came with a five-speed manual gearbox, a limited-slip diff and a hydraulic clutch; the slave cylinder for the latter is prone to leaks. A grinding noise when you dip the clutch suggests the release bearing has had it but the gearbox bearings could be tired; a gearbox rebuild costs £300-£500. Also check for crunching gear changes at high revs which means the synchromesh has had it.
KEEP US IN SUSPENSE
Few people buy one of these cars to potter about in, so the brakes and suspension have a hard time. While there are no inherent weaknesses, the suspension bushes (especially in the trailing arms) are likely to be tired so home in on them first – polyurethane replacements are available. Also, while the brakes are perfectly adequate even for fast road use, excursions onto the track will probably lead to them wearing out so feel for juddering under braking, betraying warped discs. Everything is available and there are plenty of upgrades available, and unless you get carried away parts costs are eminently reasonable. Also take a look at the gaiters on the steering rack; these split which is an automatic MoT failure – and splits won’t do the rack much good either.
ELECTRICKERY
As long as the electrical system hasn’t been butchered it should be reliable, largely because the Integra isn’t crammed with luxury equipment. It does have an electric aerial though, which can fail because of water getting into the mechanism causing it to seize. If the aerial is then activated there’s a good chance a fuse will blow, so if it won’t go up or down at all, that’s probably why. Also make sure that the red ignition key is available with the regular key. If you lose the regular ignition key and you don’t have this red alternative, you’ll have to stump up for a replacement from a Honda dealer and they’re expensive.
OUR VERDICT
You’ve got to have the driving experience high on your list of priorities to understand the Integra’s appeal, but if you want to savour every drive this is the car for you. Throw in incredible reliability plus a decent level of practicality and you’ll see this is no one-trick pony. Just don’t let anybody tell you the Honda isn’t a classic.