HILLMAN AVENGER REVIEW

Hillman

Once upon a time, Hillman Avengers were everywhere. However, there was one particular Avenger you didn’t see everyday and that was Tiger – the loud and lairy performance version of the family car, tuned and tweaked so it could actually out-perform that perennial boy racers’ favourite, the Ford Escort Mexico.

Named to provoke rose-tinted memories of the very different Sunbeam Tiger from the previous decade, the car started out as just a publicity vehicle, but when it was noticed how much interest was aroused by it, the decision was taken to put it into limited production.

Nowadays, the Tiger is one of the holy grails of Rootes ownership, especially for those enthusiasts into the later models from the Hillman marque. Unfortunately though, survivors are few and far between, so one of the biggest challenges with buying a Tiger is likely to be actually finding one!

Hillman had offered a higher performance version of the Avenger – the twin-carburettor Avenger GT – from October 1970, but in March 1972, it all got very serious.

Around 200 four-door Avenger Supers were mechanically modified to give 92.5bhp and painted a flamboyant yellow – well, so Hillman called it, although it was more orange really – with black striping and a bonnet bulge. In October 1972, a MkII version replaced the original, this time based on the Avenger GL bodyshell and red was added to the colour list too.

Approximately 400 of these were built, bringing total production to somewhere between 600 and 700. The exact figure is lost in the depths of Rootes history. However, only 40 survivors are known by the club to exist now, with many literally thrashed to death.

VITAL STATISTICS

Hillman Avenger Tiger

Engine 1498cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power 92.5bhp@6100rpm

Torque 89.6lb ft@4500rpm

Top Speed 108mph

0-60mph 8.9sec

Fuel consumption 20mpg

Gearbox 4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

IS IT GENUINE?

That’s the big question. With ordinary Avengers going for around £1000 and the best Tigers worth ten times that, there’s a lot of lure for fakers. Tigers only came in Sundance Yellow and Wardance Red, the latter shade just on the MkII cars. MkIs had a bonnet bulge, the MkIIs didn’t, blessing their owners with that essential Seventies fashion accessory instead, the matt black bonnet. The contrasting black side stripes stayed on both versions.

Under the bonnet, look for twin-Weber 40DCOE carburettors, while the front brakes are discs – some lower-spec Avengers persisted with drums all around. MkI cars had single square headlamps up front, accompanying split quarter bumpers and four round auxiliary lamps while the MkII progressed to four round headlamps but lost the fog/spot lamps. You can tell one of the more numerous MkII cars by checking the VIN plate, on the top of the bonnet slam panel. The identity number should start with an R3, followed by 231, and the service code is K, denoting a twin-carb, high compression engine.

Check any paperwork carefully; be very suspicious of a Tiger that suddenly materialises with no supporting evidence of its past. It’s worth joining the Avenger and Sunbeam Owners’ Club – it’s the best way to hear of any Tigers coming up for sale.

BODYWORK

Rust is a major issue. Starting at the front, the wings go around the headlamps and towards the trailing edges. Wheelarches are also vulnerable. It’s under the bonnet though where a lot of checks need to be made, as these areas are difficult to repair – look at the box section between the front valance (which is prone to corrosion itself) and the panel beneath the radiator, as well as the join between the inner wing and the bulkhead. Pay special attention to the MacPherson strut tops, looking not just for corrosion but also signs of inferior repairs – such as amateurish plating – in the past. It’s likely to be hiding something horrible. The front of the chassis rail around the drag strut mounting, and the chassis leg near the engine crossmember mount, are also vulnerable.

Because Tigers are traditionally driven hard, screen pillars can flex and crack, which will allow water to work its way inside, with nasty consequences.

Sills are vital areas – around the jacking points, the bottom of the A-post, adjoining chassis rail and the inner sill (from inside the car). Where the B-post welds to the sill is also a grot spot as are all the jacking points.

Towards the rear, look for signs of trouble with the back wheelarches and the lower regions of the wings.

ENGINES

All Tigers came with the 1498cc engine – a simple and rugged motor. Be on the lookout for the usual signs of blue smoke from the exhaust or from under the oil filler cap, while bearing knock from deep down inside is a major concern too.

Mk II Tigers at least have an oil pressure gauge fitted; anything less than 25psi at warm idle denotes a worn engine requiring replacement or rebuilding soon. Choke cables on these twin carb engines can break – replacements aren’t easy to source.

TRANSMISSION

Like the engines, gearboxes are tough enough to survive a lot of misuse, but synchromesh will eventually wear out around second and expect a whining back axle on a high mileage car. A stiff pedal points to a stretched clutch cable, but replacement is pretty straight-forward at least.

SUSPENSION

Few issues affect the suspension thanks to the heavy duty dampers that were installed. However, steering racks can break loose, which will lead to vague steering, and bushes will wear out as they do any car. A Tiger will hug the ground more than a standard Avenger due to lowered front springs. MkI cars had Exacton alloy wheels, superseded by (cheaper) magnesium Minilites for the MkIIs.

INTERIOR

Original Tigers had strip speedometers, along with a pod-mounted tachometer on the dash top. For the advent of the MkII, a fully-equipped dashboard made an appearance, with round instruments. Bucket seats were another departure from the norm, on both cars.

Trim is rare, either new or secondhand, so find a car with the best interior you can. Switchgear is standard Avenger – good news for availability, bad news because it can be frail and breakable.

VERDICT

Well, who wants a fast Ford anyway? The Avenger Tiger does all the same tricks, and a few more of its own, as a Mexico, yet because it is so much rarer, it will turn heads a lot more. Arguably, you’ll have more fun owning it too, thanks to the knowledge that you’re in something rarer than a lot of Ferraris. And how often do you get to say that about something wearing a Hillman badge?

CLASSIC CAR REVIEWS - HILLMAN IMP

Hillman

Cute, sprightly and great fun to drive – can there possibly be a catch to owning a Hillman Imp?

The Hillman Imp quickly established itself as a firm rival to the Mini thanks to its revvy Coventry Climax-derived all-alloy engine, cute-as-a-button looks and clever marketing. This latter was particularly impressive, with Rootes Group indulging in such historic badge engineering as Singer (for the Chamois) and Sunbeam (for the Stiletto), as well as offering a rakish coupé and practical estate/van derivatives.

Alas, much of the good work was undone thanks to a combination of a farcical production set-up (engine castings made at the new Linwood factory in Scotland had to be sent to Ryton near Coventry for assembly, and then returned to Linwood for installation into the cars) and early poor reliability, but how do they stack up today?

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine 875/998cc, in-line 4cyl, overhead camshaft, single Solex/twin Stromberg carbs

Power 39bhp@5000rpm to 65bhp@6200rpm

Torque 52lb ft @ 2800rpm to 52lb ft @4300rpm

Top speed 75-90+mph

0-60mph 22.1-14sec

Economy 35-50mpg

Gearbox 4-speed all-synchri manual, rear-wheel drive

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Bodywork
Hit and miss anti-corrosion protection at the factory – especially on the earlier cars – means that Imps rust with the best of them. Among the worst culprits in this respect is the double-skinned front bootlid; seemingly minor corrosion along the leading edge of this panel can easily develop into terminal rot if not attended to in time, leaving direct replacement the only really viable option.
Just as obvious will be rotten lower door panels; if the drainage holes get even partially blocked with the usual road detritus, water can get trapped and instigate inexorable corrosion. Frilly lower wings are common for similar reasons, but don’t stop there be sure to remove the spare wheel; the well in which it nestles is notorious for allowing water in, and then slowly rotting away. Be vigilant for lousy welding along the sills, too, and while you’re scrabbling underneath the car take a torch and assess the state of the car’s underside. Don’t expect any car to be rust-free here, but impact damage, especially on any car that has been used in sprints or hill climbs, can be bad news.
Check also the metalwork where the suspension components attach to the car – any significant rot here can dangerously compromise the car’s handling, likewise indifferent welding. You can be sure the car will fail its next MoT, too.
Engine
Dark mutterings about chronic overheating problems have dogged the Imp for years, and while this reputation isn’t entirely underserved, there are precautions that diligent owners can (and do) take to ensure that the Coventry Climax-derived all-aluminium engine keeps its cool.
Chief among these is ensuring that the antifreeze is kept scrupulously topped up, and maintained at a strong enough mixture to prevent any corrosion from setting in. A careful owner will also have made sure that the coolant is fresh and to the recommended level, and sorted any head gasket-related issues before they deteriorate. Low coolant, weak anti-freeze and a head gasket that’s past its best are all sure-fire signs of a car that hasn’t been maintained properly.
Repeated overheating will also eventually have a detrimental effect on the engine block and head (they’re both aluminium, remember) – if the service history makes mention of a recent head or block skim (and this is reinforced by noticeable ‘pinking’ under load), then walk away. Later cars are less prone to overheating, but not immune – what can appear to be a reassuringly low water temperature gauge reading may, in fact, be down to the fact that an unscrupulous vendor has removed the thermostat, so be sure to check it.
Don’t be too put off minor oil leaks – all Imps seep oil to a degree, but major slicks should start alarm bells ringing.
Running Gear
The Imp is a match for the venerable Mini in many respects, and its gearshift quality is one such area. Anything other than slick, razor-sharp up- and down-shifts suggests problems, but since repair costs are often so low, they shouldn’t be a deal-breaker. A woolly shift action is usually as a result of something as simple as shot gearlever bushes, but crunchy shifts – especially in first and second gear – usually means either a re-build or direct replacement is necessary, and direct replacement is an engine-out job.
Suspect worn steering bushes or kingpins on a car whose helm feels overly heavy, and if aftermarket wheels are fitted, make sure they don’t foul the arches.
Interior
You’ll hunt in vain for new-old stock interior or exterior Imp trim these days, but parts back-up from the club is still impressive, with most things available. Hillclimbers tend to strip their cars of superfluous items to keep the weight down, so keep an eye on the small ads – it’s not entirely unheard of for complete interiors in particular to come up for sale from time to time.

OUR VERDICT
For reasons that remain unclear, the Hillman Imp has never really attained the superstar status enjoyed by the Mini, or the strong values maintained by the similar-sized (if somewhat rarer) Renault 8. The most likely reason for this is that reputation for engine overheating, but since most enthusiast-owned cars will have been rectified and properly maintained by now, this hardly seems a problem.
Factor in seating for four, cute good looks, a super-revvy engine, slick gearshift, direct steering and light weight, and the amount of car you get in return for a relatively lowly outlay can prove mighty tempting.

HILLMAN SUPER MINX REVIEW

Hillman

Often overlooked, the Super Minx range offers up something for everyone.

The driving position is surprisingly good, with a decent range of seat adjustment. The steering wheel is offset a little from the big pedal pads, but you soon became accustomed to this. The car is free from serious wind noise at high speed, and the ride on all but rough surfaces is good, with the high spring rates limiting bounce and pitch and a stiff front anti-roll bar limiting roll movement.

Handling is almost identical to the rest of the Hillman and small Humber group, and errs on the side of final understeer. While the effect of this is to make the car a little heavy to haul around short, tight corners, it makes it very safe and stable at sensible speeds. The steering is quite light and accurate, but does get a little spongy towards each extremity of lock. Despite the use of a live rear axle and conventional springing, it is difficult to induce axle tramp. The Mark II has slightly improved disc brakes, and stops well for a family car, with average pedal pressures and no sign of fade under normal use.

VITAL STATISTICS

1961 Hillman Super Minx

Engine 1592cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm) 62bhp@4800rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 84lb ft@2800rpm

Top speed 80mph

0-60mph 20sec

Consumption 25mpg

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

Super Minxes were poorly rustproofed when new, so most have required major repairs by now. Wheelarches often rot out, so check them carefully for filler. Wings themselves last well, but corrosion can often occur where the inner and outer panels meet. Front valances and the leading edge of the bonnet are other common rot spots.

Also examine each sill along its length, especially on convertibles – the structural strengthening that runs along the underside can rust badly, with uneven door gaps being a tell-tale sign that this has occurred. Spring hangers corrode along with the rear footwells, while you also need to examine the fuel tank. Chances are that the underside of the tank itself will have rusted, along with the panelling surrounding it – repair in this area is tricky, so be on your guard. Finally, always check the drainage holes aren’t blocked.

Check the underside of each door, as rust there is difficult to spot from the outside. Door skins can also rot badly, but the door frames themselves tend to be resilient. You also need to lift up the carpets and have a good look at the metal beneath, particularly in the front footwells – leaking windscreens mean water is often trapped there, with obvious and troublesome consequences.

ENGINE

Super Minxes used a 1592cc engine until 1965, when it was replaced with a 1725cc version of the same unit. The former is capable of over 100,000 miles between rebuilds, while the beefier latter can manage around double that figure. Whatever unit is under the bonnet, dip the clutch to see if the revs drop, betraying worn main bearings and tired rear crankshaft thrust washer. The only fix is a bottom end rebuild. Rattling from the front of the engine suggests a worn timing chain, while excessive tappet noise could be due to poor adjustment, though worn tappets and followers are more likely. The 1725cc unit has a cast-iron block and a head of either cast iron or alloy. It’s crucial that anti-freeze has been maintained at a ratio of 50:50 in order to prevent internal corrosion

RUNNING GEAR

Gearboxes offered for Super Minxes included a conventional manual or less common automatic. The former didn’t receive synchromesh on first gear until 1964. Overdrive was available as an option from the beginning of production, but few buyers specified it, and consequently it’s very desirable today. If overdrive is present, then make sure it functions smoothly – any problems are likely to be electrics-related, so check for a duff relay, solenoid or dodgy wiring connections. A Smiths Easidrive automatic gearbox was available until 1962, before being replaced by a Borg-Warner 35 unit, but you’re unlikely to find a car with the former today.

BRAKES

Steering is via a recirculating ball steering box, that needs to be examined for leaks and overtightening. Any tight spots as you turn the wheel are indicative of the latter. Unless they have been horrendously neglected however, the ‘boxes will rack up extensive mileages. All Super Minxes have front disc brakes, apart from very early cars up to October ’62.

INTERIOR

Damaged seats are a particular problem, usually only fixed by investing in a retrim. Look out for splits and tears, as well as stitching coming undone. Driver’s seat diaphragms suffer through years of use, as the rubber membrane sags and breaks. Repairs need to be effected with webbing, as originals are no longer available. when examining a prospective purchase. A large number of detail changes over the years make tracking down exterior trim difficult.

OUR VERDICT

Announced in October 1961, the Super Minx gave Rootes an expanded presence in the upper echelons of the family car market. It was bigger, heavier and accordingly more expensive than the mere Minx, so Rootes management decided to release it as a separate model, with ‘Super’ added to highlight its improvements. The body retained the family resemblance, but underneath the mechanicals were broadly the same. Alongside saloon and estate models, a fetching four-seater convertible was introduced in 1962.

The Super Minx engine originally had a cast-iron cylinder head, though on later cars this was replaced with an aluminium version. Suspension was independent at the front using coil springs with anti-roll bar and at the rear had leaf springs and a live axle. The Super Minx saloon and its Singer relatives were replaced by the Rootes ‘Arrow’ range when the Hillman Hunter and Singer Vogue were launched at the London Motor Show in October 1966.

It’s hard to see why Super Minxes still seem so underrated – they are eminently usable, practical and are more than capable of keeping up with modern traffic. Specialists are few and far between, but great club support should help point you in the right direction, so find a good one and you won’t regret it.

HILLMAN MINX REVIEW

Hillman

The last car to bear the Minx name has almost been forgotten, but that’s no reason not to hunt out a good one and wallow in a bit of late-’60s nostalgia

Your first impression as you settle behind the wheel will probably be of how airy and spacious the cabin feels. The windows are deep and give a good view out all round the car. Instruments are clear, although rather basic, and there are no surprises with the switchgear or controls.

The rugged and long-lasting engine isn’t particularly quiet and even revving it hard won’t deliver strong acceleration. However, once you’ve settled into the Minx’s rhythm, it can be quite relaxing to drive. The controls are light, the gearchange quite slick, and the brakes really very good. Overall, though, the car has that predictable if slightly stodgy feel that the average British buyer liked in the mid-1960s. Setting the world on fire hadn’t been part of the design brief.

VITAL STATISTICS

Hillman Minx

Engine 1496cc/4-cylinder/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm) 54bhp@4600rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 73lb ft@2500rpm

Top speed 83mph

0-60mph 15.5sec

Consumption 26mpg

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

Broadly speaking, mechanical faults on these cars are easy to fix, body problems can be expensive, and interior problems will be a real challenge. It’s vital to ensure that the interior is all in good condition.

Non-functioning instruments and switches may be obtainable from specialist breakers, but damaged door cards and seats are virtually irreplaceable items.

At the front of the car, check the front wings directly above the headlights, because this area is a known rust-trap that can get out of control in a hurry. The trailing edges of the front wings can often rust severely too, and corrosion may also affect the A-pillars and outer edges of the bulkhead. It’s advisable to check for problems here by opening the front doors and gently working them up and down to feel for weakness in the hinge mountings.

The front valance is often in a very poor state, as it gets bombarded by stones and road dirt, and owners tend to miss it when washing the cars. Behind the valance, a more serious problem can be rust in the mounting points for the suspension tie-bars. Open the bonnet to check the state of the inner wings and the chassis leg where the steering box is mounted. Oddly enough, the area around the top mountings for the MacPherson struts is not particularly rust-prone, although it is unlikely to be wholly sound.

In the middle of the car, check the bottoms of the doors, where blocked drain holes cause door bottoms to rot out from the inside. Take a good look at the inner and outer sills (which are structural), and at the outrigger sections of the "chassis". A notorious rot-spot is the floor pan underneath the pedals, where water can collect under the carpet if the windscreen seal is leaking. As such, the pungent smell of damp carpets is a bad sign on these cars.

ENGINE

Although the Rootes engines used in these cars were updated with five main bearings, the Minx versions retained the iron heads from the previous generation of engines. That can be a blessing in disguise since the new alloy heads tended to corrode and that led to overheating and warped heads when the waterways silted up. It’s quite possible that you will find a Minx that has been modified with an alloy head to get more power; if it has twin carburettors as well, then elements of the Holbay-tuned 1725cc engine may have been added.

RUNNING GEAR

The gearbox was designed for the previous generation of Rootes Group models, but the change action should still feel quite slick and positive. If it is vague and notchy – or worse, noisy – suspect excessive gearbox wear. As for the synchromesh, it tends to fail on second gear before any of the others. Back axles can whine a little, but are pretty tough and can easily last for 100,000 miles without needing a major overhaul.

BRAKES

Don’t expect too much from the suspension, but it should be reasonably firm and not at all soggy. If the car handles like an oil tanker, budget for a suspension overhaul. New dampers, lower swivels and track rod ends will usually do the trick.

OUR VERDICT

Ever since 1931, the Hillman Minx had stood for dependable family motoring, and the last of the breed was planned as a conventional, affordable saloon which would do the same.

For most of the 1960s the Minx and its derivatives were the greatest-volume seller in a competitive market. Success came in the form of the vast Rootes "Arrow" range, which kicked off with the Hillman Hunter in 1966. The Minx was introduced a year later and was a determinedly low-spec model, with smaller 1.5-litre engine. Bizarrely, the estate variant was never a Minx in Britain, but just a "Hillman estate car"!

The attraction of the "New Minx" was its size: "the world’s most trusted car goes excitingly big" claimed Rootes advertising at the time.

It really was quite spacious, too, although the idea of excitement was never in the designers’ minds. Minxes lasted to 1970, when their place in the Rootes range went to the Avenger. Today, a Minx is for nostalgia, and "my dad had one of those" is a great reason for owning this humble saloon.

There are so few Minxes left today that anyone who’s keen to get one will likely go after the first one that’s advertised. However, as finding parts can be tricky and prices are pretty low even for the best cars, don’t try to rescue a basket case. Buy the best you can find – it makes sense to buy a spares car, too.

The Minx was never intended to be anything other than an utterly conventional family saloon, so don’t expect amazing dynamics. On the other hand, owning and caring for one of these cars will give you a far better insight into 1960s/1970s motoring than any number of the classic "favourites" from the era. The Minx pottered about its business without occasioning comment. Sadly, you’ll probably have to spend a lot of your time today looking out for idiots who have no appreciation of the performance and handling limits of an older car.