DAIMLER SOVEREIGN REVIEW

We look at what it takes to buy a great Series II Daimler Sovereign...

It is here more than anywhere else where you realise just why the Sovereign SII is so desirable. The cabin is British luxury at its very best, and you only need to spend a few minutes in the wood and leather-lined haven to feel completely relaxed. Few cars of this age can deliver such style and comfort, and things get even better on the move. Whether you choose six or 12-cylinder power, you’ll be treated to a smooth and wonderfully quiet power-plant with plenty of performance (just try to ignore those fuel bills), and it is even better teamed with the smooth-shifting auto ‘box. It may not be very sporting in the bends but the Daimler is all about relaxed cruising and it does have a truly superb ride. The light steering may be a bit lifeless but the powerful brakes inspire confidence.

The SII is more than capable of playing the role of long distance tourer and if it’s comfort you’re after, fully deserves a place on any buyer’s list. There may be a few issues to watch out for but a good example will be an absolute joy.

VITAL STATISTICS

Daimler Series II

Engine                                    4235cc/6-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  180bhp@4500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 232lb ft@3000rpm

Top speed                                117mph

0-60mph                                  10.6sec

Consumption                            17mpg 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Rot can hide just about everywhere, and you certainly need to examine the area around the headlights, the front and rear wings and wheel arches, the bottoms of the doors, and the sills. Pay particular attention to the front and rear screen surrounds as any corrosion here is bad news, while any signs of bubbling under the vinyl roof could easily be hiding a host of frighteningly expensive issues. Check the condition of exterior trim as the cost of replacement or re-chroming – particularly the lovely fluted grille – can add-up.

Get underneath for a good look around. Corrosion can affect the front and rear valances, the front cross member, and the floor pan and spare wheel well. Lift the carpets in the cabin and boot as well if possible. Be sure to check the twin 10-gallon fuel tanks, as these can rust from both inside and out and replacement is a labour intensive and costly job. 

ENGINE

Engines are fundamentally strong, but can be plagued by a number of issues. Chief among them is overheating, so a thorough check of the cooling system is recommended as remedying head gasket failure – particularly on V12 models – is a pricey job. Other problems include oil leaks from the rear crankshaft oil seal, rattly timing chains and worn tensioners, and low oil pressure due to internal wear (40-50psi of pressure when warm is a healthy sign). Excessive exhaust smoke should also ring alarm bells. Evidence of regular servicing by a recognised specialist will put your mind at rest. 

RUNNING GEAR

Transmissions were a choice of four-speed manual with overdrive or the Borg Warner 65 three-speed automatic. Both are generally trouble-free with any problems clearly apparent on the test drive. Later V12 models switched to the GM400 auto ‘box which is considered by specialists to be both smoother and stronger. Differential oil seals can leak and the unit itself can become noisy at high mileages, while clunking noises as you apply, or lift off the throttle point to probable worn propshaft or driveshaft joints.

BRAKES

The complex independent rear suspension has a number of bushes that can wear. Replacement costs aren’t excessive, but the hefty kerb weight will take its toll on springs and dampers so a noisy ride will mean work is needed. Watch for any signs of corrosion around the front suspension turrets and rear suspension mounting points as repairs here can be very costly. The brakes are well up to the performance of the big saloon, although the inboard rear brakes can seize on little-used cars and an overhaul is an awkward task. Leaks from the power steering hydraulics and faulty pumps are also fairly common, so take the time to check these carefully. 

INTERIOR

A Daimler SII with a tatty interior is likely to have a disastrous effect on your bank balance, so it really does pay to find one in tidy condition. A light refresh is one thing, but if areas such as the leather seats, door-cards, woodwork, or headlining are too far gone, then you are looking at a hugely costly professional re-trim. The cost of this alone could be more than the car is worth so you’ve been warned! Those BL electrics are likely to prove troublesome as well so it’s important to make sure everything is working. Air-conditioning systems can be fragile too, so ensure it blows cold and responds to the controls.

OUR VERDICT

The Daimler SII is a fine-looking classic and a very pleasant way to travel. Remember, though, that a restoration case could swallow huge amounts of cash, so look for a well-cared for one. There are plenty around so take your time.

There is something really special about a luxury British classic, and Daimler provided luxury like few other car makers. Based on the Series II Jaguar XJ and launched in 1973, the Daimler Sovereign version added some extra touches to make this lovely design even classier, and that alone makes it well worth considering. 

As well as that gorgeous shape, buying a Series II means you’ll be getting a car with a truly cossetting ride, while opting for V12 power means it’ll shift too. And there is a good choice of models including a superb-looking coupé and a long wheelbase variant that added four inches to the overall length.

The poor quality of British Leyland products at the time is almost legendary, so as you’d expect there are things to watch for if you’re to avoid bankrupting restoration costs.

However, there is a great owners’ club and a huge number of specialists to call upon for advice. Getting a good one and keeping it that way isn’t as hard, or as costly, as you might think. 

DAIMLER DOUBLE SIX REVIEW

The Daimler Double Six makes for effortless motoring. It's a Jag with extra jaaaaaaaaaaggggg. 

Introduced in September 1968, Jaguar/Daimler found new levels of style, performance and luxury for the executive market, continuing the tradition of 'Grace Space and Pace'. Initially using the 2.8 and 4.2-litre XK engines in 140bhp and 170bhp form, demand for more power was catered for in 1972 with the introduction of the fabulously smooth and quiet 5.3-litre V12 or 'Daimler Double-Six' engine in 254bhp form. Increased leg-room for the rear passengers was also catered for that year with the introduction of the long wheelbase version, which added another four inches to the car, soon to become standard shortly after production of the Series 2 commenced in 1973.

DAIMLER 250 V8 REVIEW

If you are searching for svelte V8 power in a luxurious bodyshell, the Daimler 250 V8 is the car for you. 

The Daimler 250 V8 and later V8-250 were the result of a lengthy plan to give Daimler a presence in the executive car sector as well as the luxury sector. The first attempt to bridge this gap was a joint venture with Vauxhall, which would have led to a restyled PA Cresta with a Daimler V8 and trim. The Jaguar buyout of 1960 put paid to this, and in 1962 the 2.5 V8 saloon was created. In 1967 the car was revised in line with changes made to the Jaguar range, gaining slimline bumpers and a new name; V8-250. The Turner engine gives the whole car a very different, more louche feel than the sporting Jaguars, and as such appealed to different customers when new and on the classic market.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine – 2548cc/V8/OHV

Power - 140bhp@5800rpm

Torque - 155lb/ft@3600rpm

Top Speed – 112mph

0-60mph – 10.8 seconds

Economy - 19mpg

Gearbox - 3 speed auto, optional 4 speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Bodywork

In the respect the Daimler V8 is no different to a MK2 – which means our old friend iron oxide comes out to play.  Check the Panhard rod mountings, rear leaf spring hangers, sills, under the rear seat and boot floor, wheel spats, wing-top sidelights at the front, and the lower edges of all panels. MK2s were known for rust, and whilst most left will be good it’s always wise to make certain you haven’t found a bad one. A lot of panels are available – but they’re costly. A complete front wing will cost a smidge over £2000. Key differences within the range were the bumpers – twin blade on the 2.5 V8, and single blade on the V8-250. This necessitates different valances – beware that they’re of different depths and not directly interchangeable. Rear valances are also different to the Jaguars; modified for the Daimler iant to accommodate twin exhausts. These are still available from SNG Barratt for both 2.5V8 and V8 250 models. Contrary to popular belief, chromed wire wheels were a factory option for the Daimler – don’t dismiss a car for wearing them. And don’t be worried by V8-250s with foglamps. Whilst they were deleted on the Jaguar 240 and Jaguar 340, the Daimler kept foglamps as standard equipment until the end of production.

Unlike the Jaguar iant, Daimlers had rimbellishers as standard fitment – any car with steel wheels should still have these. Many had opalescent paint as standard, so make sure it hasn’t been subject to any poor partial re-sprays; the colour difference will be clear if it has.

Engines

Whilst Jaguar gave thought to the concept of using the larger 4.5 V8 in the MKII shell, the sole engine option for production was Daimler’s small 2.5 V8, designed by Edward Turner of Triumph motorbike fame. Inspired in part by the contemporary Cadillac V8, he incorporated many of the design features seen in his motorbike engines; including hemispherical combustion chambers and pushrods, with an overhead valve layout. Developing 140bhp, this engine was also used in the Daimler SP250 sports car – and is the reason the Daimler is seen as a separate entity to the Jaguars. The Daimler engine is generally reliable, and should pose no major issues in service.

Running Gear

The Daimler V8’s running gear – with the obvious exception of the engine – is straight MK2. As such, companies such as SNG Barratt are able to supply most parts for the cars. A lot of it is cheaper than you’d think too - £4.86 for a fuel filter, and just under fourteen quid for an engine mounting. All pre-1967 cars and most post-1967 cars used the Borg-Warner Type 35 automatic gearbox, which can still be obtained new. A manual option was offered from 1967; an identical gearbox to that used on the 2.4 Jaguar MK2. As the engine was lighter than the XK, the front suspension needed slight modification to suit – beware anybody trying to pass off Jaguar items as the same.

Interior

The interior on these Daimlers is more or less straight MK2 – with a few differences. Firstly, the front seats – a split bench in the manner of the later 3.4S and 3.8S was the order of the day for Daimler, unlike the more rakish separate seats seen in the MK2 and 240/340. As a result of this, the picnic tables were lost – the centre console also disappeared, as did the heating ducts to the rear of the cabin. The final change was the badge on the steering wheel – Daimlers had a golden D in place of the Jaguar’s growling cat. As with all cars in this class, interior condition is key – a retrim will not come cheap. Buy the best you can – flaky lacquer and cracked leather do not a good Daimler make.

OUR VERDICT

It’s the forgotten MKII. Whilst prices for good Jags spiral ever higher, one can burble along in a Daimler V8 feeling just as pleased about life, but at a fraction of the cost. The ‘S’ Type, 420 and Sovereign may all be cheaper still, but most small Jag admirers find their beauty compromised by the extra inches to the rear and the restyled noses. The trim level is higher than the MK2, too – when the 240 and 340 received Ambla trim, the Daimler V8-250 was never subjected to such indignities. They might not be as sporting – but let’s be honest, few MK2s are ever really driven in anger any more. The only downside is the amount of time you’ll spend at shows correcting those who "like your MK2" – for you will find yourself doing so every time!

DAIMLER SP250 REVIEW

Better known for luxury saloons, Daimler could do sports cars as well - as the delicious Daimler Dart proves. 

The heart and soul of any Daimler SP250 is its glorious Edward Turner-designed 2.5-litre V8 engine. While 140bhp and 155lb ft of torque might not sound much today, you should remember that the car only weighs just over 1000kg. In June 1960, The Motor recorded a 0-60mph dash of just 8.9 seconds, a standing quarter-mile of 17 seconds and a top speed of more than 123mph.

It’s the sound it makes that puts the biggest smile on your face, though. For such a small capacity V8, it really does sound astonishing as it burbles liquidly through the wide-bore twin exhausts.

It’s probably fair to say that, as a pure sports car, the SP250 does leave something to be desired. The relatively simple chassis, allied to leaf-sprung rear suspension and heavy steering, can combine to rather distance the driver from what’s going on at the wheels. A more modern steering rack conversion is a sensible investment for the enthusiast driver and tightens everything up, although the ride can feel unsettled on poorly-metalled surfaces. On smoother roads, though, it’s a consummate cruiser.

VITAL STATISTICS

Daimler SP250

Engine                                    2548cc/8-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  140bhp@5800rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 155lb ft@ 3600rpm

Top speed                                123mph

0-60mph                                  8.9sec

Consumption                            23mpg 

Gearbox                                    4-spd manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Ignore any self-styled ‘experts’ who claim that the SP250’s glassfibre body is maintenance-free. Impact damage, be it from a wayward jack rattling around in the boot or the unwanted attentions of another car, can inflict grievous bodily harm on the bodywork. And if it’s not repaired properly, star cracks and crazing can cost big money to rectify.

Be especially vigilant when assessing a very early 1959 (‘A-Spec’ in Daimler-speak) car, as the TR3-alike chassis (which comprised a straight box-section frame and cruciform bracing) was prone to body flex that could apparently be severe enough under energetic cornering to actually cause one of the doors to burst open. Later ‘B-Spec’ cars, built by Jaguar from late 1960, sported additional chassis outriggers and extra bracing between in a bid to eliminate this problem.

ENGINE

The 2.5-litre V8 engine has an enviable reputation for longevity – it can easily stretch to well over 200,000 miles between rebuilds – but only if it has been maintained regularly and properly. Its Achilles’ Heel is the alloy cylinderhead, which doesn’t take kindly to low or over-diluted coolant to the extent that the heads can actually disintegrate, leading to chronic overheating and eventual warping. The biggest clue is the dreaded ‘mayonnaise’ lurking on the inside of the oil filler cap. Ensure, too, that the pipe connecting the two carburettors is a proper braided type – anything less substantial can actually cause an engine fire.

Some engines built were also prone to mains failure, more prevalent on tuned examples.

ELECTRICS

The top-model 300SE and 300SEL had air suspension, which was high-tech stuff for the early 1960s. The ride it gives is quite remarkable, but problems can be very expensive indeed to fix, and parts are not plentiful. Buy an air-sprung Fintail with your eyes wide open, and have the phone numbers of a specialist and your bank manager close at hand.

RUNNING GEAR

Looking deeper into a car, you need to check two important structural cross-members which can rot through and will be very expensive to repair. At the front, the critical one runs above the gearbox and below the bulkhead. At the rear, it’s the cross-member above the rear "axle". 

BRAKES

If we haven’t put you off already, there’s one more hidden area to examine for corrosion. This is the ledge on the bulkhead that supports the brake servo. Debris accumulates here and, especially if combined with leaking brake fluid, can cause the metal underneath to rot through.

INTERIOR

Don’t read too much into the assertion by some optimistic vendors that the SP250 is a two-plus-two. There is a rear bench seat, but it’s really only suitable for small children – adults will struggle to fit, and won’t want to stay back there for too long. Contemporary road tests often groused about the front seats, too, with the chief complaint being a perceived lack of under-thigh support. As always, try it before you buy it.

OUR VERDICT

Time really hasn’t been entirely fair to the Daimler SP250. It has a fabulous engine and later, Jaguar-built models were much better made than the very first examples. And yet talk inevitably returns to the challenging styling and the self-opening doors.

These are super-rare (fewer than 2700 were ever made) and properly quick classics that enjoy an enthusiastic and knowledgeable following, as well as comprehensive backing from marque specialists. The bodywork may not be as maintenance-free as some would have you believe, but they won’t rust and localised repairs are straightforward. Buy wisely, and you should have few problems.

Demand will always outstrip supply, of course, but £25,000-30,000 is still strong money for a quirky little British drop-top. 
We suggest that you buy now before values reach the stratosphere and beyond.

Even taking into account the three immutable SP250 truisms – that beauty is in the eye of the beholder; that the car is quite handsome from the rear; and that time has served to lessen the shock of the pouting, vaguely piscine snout – it’s still difficult to get past that opinion-polarising styling. Striking it most certainly is, but beautiful?

No matter. The real reason classic car enthusiasts continue to buy Daimler SP250s in sufficient numbers to keep prices of good ones surprisingly high is to enjoy high speed, wind-in-the-hair cruising allied to decent potential for backroad blasts.

Driving one today provides an experience that’s very much of its era, but surely that’s the whole point. If you want a car that changes direction like a startled hare, then buy a Mini Cooper, but if you want long-distance, high-speed cruising potential and a boot big enough to swallow two weeks’ worth of luggage, then the Dart makes a compelling case. If you don’t want to go down the more obvious Triumph TR/Morgan Plus 4/MGB route, it is, in many respects, the obvious choice. If you can afford one...

DAIMLER SP250 'DART' REVIEW

Better known for luxury saloons, Daimler could do sports cars as well.
 

Anyone with experience of Daimler’s usual luxury fare will probably be expecting a soft cruiser, but make no mistake the SP250 is a proper sports car. It’s helped in no small part by the V8 engine, which has a lovely burble at tickover put provides plenty of torquey performance on the open road. 

The cabin may be a bit cramped as a 2+2 but there is plenty of room for the driver and the controls falling nicely to hand. The GRP bodywork means it’s a surprisingly light car too, and the SP certainly feels at home on a twisting B-road. Completing the package are confidence-inspiring disc brakes and generally accurate – if a touch heavy – steering, though we’d probably opt for the rack-and-pinion conversion if it were our money.

VITAL STATISTICS

Daimler SP250 ‘Dart’

Engine                                    2548cc/V8/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  140bhp@5800rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 155lb ft@3600rpm

Top speed                                124mph

0-60mph                                  8.9sec

Consumption                            23mpg

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

The GRP body means no rust, but you need to check for the cracks and crazing that can afflict the material. Poorly repaired accident damage is expensive to put right so look for serious rippling in panels (particularly the inner wings), as well as the fit of the panels themselves. Stress cracks can develop around hinges, and the doors can be prone to dropping as the hinge wears. The bonnet is a problem area as it had a habit of coming open on the road, resulting in damage. The main cause is corrosion of the radiator supports (GRP-coated steel), which allows flexing causing the bonnet catch to release. A cheap secondary safety latch is the cure. A hardtop was optional so check its condition and mounting points – but don’t forget to check the soft top as well. 

Plenty of chrome and Mazak parts adorn the SP250 and missing or damaged bits will rack up hefty bills.  The imposing front grille isn’t available, bumpers are hugely expensive, and sorting a tatty windscreen surround can cost around £1000.   

The chassis is prone to rot and may well have been replaced by now. Problem areas include the main box sections, front cross-member, steering box mounts, front suspension turrets, and rear cross-member. Repairs aren’t too difficult but the body will need to come off if it’s too far gone. Check with a specialist before taking this route, though, as many repairs can be done with the body in-situ, despite what you may read elsewhere. Take a look at the fuel tank as this can corrode – access via the boot is tricky. Ultimately, unless you’re sure of any work that has been done, the best advice is to get the car on a ramp for a thorough inspection. ‘B-Spec’ cars from 1961 had a stronger chassis.

ENGINE

The V8 is capable of high mileages with proper care. Overheating is the issue most likely to cause harm, so a healthy cooling system is paramount. Correct coolant strength helps avoid internal corrosion of the alloy cylinder heads, and the warping and head gasket failure that ensues. Replacement heads aren’t available, so refurbishment or a unit from a V8 saloon is the only answer. Check carefully for a clogged radiator or any sign of water leaks, and keep a close eye on the temperature gauge on the test drive. Fitting an electric fan is a sensible – and popular – modification. Watch for oil leaks and excessive exhaust smoke; the latter is sometimes caused by valve guide problems (there were no stem oil seals fitted originally). Oil pressure of 40psi when warm and at least 20psi at idle is ideal. Listen for a cracked exhaust manifold as repairs are costly.

RUNNING GEAR

The four-speed manual gearbox can be a touch fragile. It lacked synchromesh on first gear so some noise is to be expected, but it shouldn’t be excessive.  A car with optional overdrive is a plus, although specialists can supply a conversion along with a re-built ’box for around £2500. The Borg Warner automatic was popular on police-spec cars, but oil leaks and hefty re-build costs mean the manual is the safer bet. The rear axle on early cars is also a weak spot – check for clunks on the move.

Unassisted Girling disc brakes are generally trouble-free (although handbrake linkages can seize), but a servo-conversion aids driveability. Tired springs and dampers aren’t difficult to sort, and worn or seized front trunnions/vertical links are usually caused by a lack of regular greasing. The links are notoriously expensive to replace – £1000 or more each side on an exchange basis – so get a specialist’s opinion if you suspect stiffness or excessive play. Play can also develop in the worm and peg steering box, and many owners have opted for a rack-and-pinion conversion which lessens steering effort. Budget around £2500 at a specialist including fitting.

INTERIOR

The 2+2 cabin used high quality materials that are expensive to replace. Complete decrepitude could see a restoration running into thousands, so budget accordingly. Brittle wiring and corroded connectors are common on cars of this age, so check thoroughly for any electrical malfunctions.    

OUR VERDICT

Despite having a straightforward mechanical layout, the SP250 is not an especially easy car to buy and there are a number of pitfalls that could land an unwary buyer with substantial restorations costs. Care is needed and we would certainly recommend getting a specialist to take a look at a prospective purchase. Find one that’s been pampered and you won’t be disappointed with what the SP250 has to offer.