HILLMAN AVENGER REVIEW

Hillman

Once upon a time, Hillman Avengers were everywhere. However, there was one particular Avenger you didn’t see everyday and that was Tiger – the loud and lairy performance version of the family car, tuned and tweaked so it could actually out-perform that perennial boy racers’ favourite, the Ford Escort Mexico.

Named to provoke rose-tinted memories of the very different Sunbeam Tiger from the previous decade, the car started out as just a publicity vehicle, but when it was noticed how much interest was aroused by it, the decision was taken to put it into limited production.

Nowadays, the Tiger is one of the holy grails of Rootes ownership, especially for those enthusiasts into the later models from the Hillman marque. Unfortunately though, survivors are few and far between, so one of the biggest challenges with buying a Tiger is likely to be actually finding one!

Hillman had offered a higher performance version of the Avenger – the twin-carburettor Avenger GT – from October 1970, but in March 1972, it all got very serious.

Around 200 four-door Avenger Supers were mechanically modified to give 92.5bhp and painted a flamboyant yellow – well, so Hillman called it, although it was more orange really – with black striping and a bonnet bulge. In October 1972, a MkII version replaced the original, this time based on the Avenger GL bodyshell and red was added to the colour list too.

Approximately 400 of these were built, bringing total production to somewhere between 600 and 700. The exact figure is lost in the depths of Rootes history. However, only 40 survivors are known by the club to exist now, with many literally thrashed to death.

VITAL STATISTICS

Hillman Avenger Tiger

Engine 1498cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power 92.5bhp@6100rpm

Torque 89.6lb ft@4500rpm

Top Speed 108mph

0-60mph 8.9sec

Fuel consumption 20mpg

Gearbox 4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

IS IT GENUINE?

That’s the big question. With ordinary Avengers going for around £1000 and the best Tigers worth ten times that, there’s a lot of lure for fakers. Tigers only came in Sundance Yellow and Wardance Red, the latter shade just on the MkII cars. MkIs had a bonnet bulge, the MkIIs didn’t, blessing their owners with that essential Seventies fashion accessory instead, the matt black bonnet. The contrasting black side stripes stayed on both versions.

Under the bonnet, look for twin-Weber 40DCOE carburettors, while the front brakes are discs – some lower-spec Avengers persisted with drums all around. MkI cars had single square headlamps up front, accompanying split quarter bumpers and four round auxiliary lamps while the MkII progressed to four round headlamps but lost the fog/spot lamps. You can tell one of the more numerous MkII cars by checking the VIN plate, on the top of the bonnet slam panel. The identity number should start with an R3, followed by 231, and the service code is K, denoting a twin-carb, high compression engine.

Check any paperwork carefully; be very suspicious of a Tiger that suddenly materialises with no supporting evidence of its past. It’s worth joining the Avenger and Sunbeam Owners’ Club – it’s the best way to hear of any Tigers coming up for sale.

BODYWORK

Rust is a major issue. Starting at the front, the wings go around the headlamps and towards the trailing edges. Wheelarches are also vulnerable. It’s under the bonnet though where a lot of checks need to be made, as these areas are difficult to repair – look at the box section between the front valance (which is prone to corrosion itself) and the panel beneath the radiator, as well as the join between the inner wing and the bulkhead. Pay special attention to the MacPherson strut tops, looking not just for corrosion but also signs of inferior repairs – such as amateurish plating – in the past. It’s likely to be hiding something horrible. The front of the chassis rail around the drag strut mounting, and the chassis leg near the engine crossmember mount, are also vulnerable.

Because Tigers are traditionally driven hard, screen pillars can flex and crack, which will allow water to work its way inside, with nasty consequences.

Sills are vital areas – around the jacking points, the bottom of the A-post, adjoining chassis rail and the inner sill (from inside the car). Where the B-post welds to the sill is also a grot spot as are all the jacking points.

Towards the rear, look for signs of trouble with the back wheelarches and the lower regions of the wings.

ENGINES

All Tigers came with the 1498cc engine – a simple and rugged motor. Be on the lookout for the usual signs of blue smoke from the exhaust or from under the oil filler cap, while bearing knock from deep down inside is a major concern too.

Mk II Tigers at least have an oil pressure gauge fitted; anything less than 25psi at warm idle denotes a worn engine requiring replacement or rebuilding soon. Choke cables on these twin carb engines can break – replacements aren’t easy to source.

TRANSMISSION

Like the engines, gearboxes are tough enough to survive a lot of misuse, but synchromesh will eventually wear out around second and expect a whining back axle on a high mileage car. A stiff pedal points to a stretched clutch cable, but replacement is pretty straight-forward at least.

SUSPENSION

Few issues affect the suspension thanks to the heavy duty dampers that were installed. However, steering racks can break loose, which will lead to vague steering, and bushes will wear out as they do any car. A Tiger will hug the ground more than a standard Avenger due to lowered front springs. MkI cars had Exacton alloy wheels, superseded by (cheaper) magnesium Minilites for the MkIIs.

INTERIOR

Original Tigers had strip speedometers, along with a pod-mounted tachometer on the dash top. For the advent of the MkII, a fully-equipped dashboard made an appearance, with round instruments. Bucket seats were another departure from the norm, on both cars.

Trim is rare, either new or secondhand, so find a car with the best interior you can. Switchgear is standard Avenger – good news for availability, bad news because it can be frail and breakable.

VERDICT

Well, who wants a fast Ford anyway? The Avenger Tiger does all the same tricks, and a few more of its own, as a Mexico, yet because it is so much rarer, it will turn heads a lot more. Arguably, you’ll have more fun owning it too, thanks to the knowledge that you’re in something rarer than a lot of Ferraris. And how often do you get to say that about something wearing a Hillman badge?

CLASSIC CAR REVIEWS - HILLMAN IMP

Hillman

Cute, sprightly and great fun to drive – can there possibly be a catch to owning a Hillman Imp?

The Hillman Imp quickly established itself as a firm rival to the Mini thanks to its revvy Coventry Climax-derived all-alloy engine, cute-as-a-button looks and clever marketing. This latter was particularly impressive, with Rootes Group indulging in such historic badge engineering as Singer (for the Chamois) and Sunbeam (for the Stiletto), as well as offering a rakish coupé and practical estate/van derivatives.

Alas, much of the good work was undone thanks to a combination of a farcical production set-up (engine castings made at the new Linwood factory in Scotland had to be sent to Ryton near Coventry for assembly, and then returned to Linwood for installation into the cars) and early poor reliability, but how do they stack up today?

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine 875/998cc, in-line 4cyl, overhead camshaft, single Solex/twin Stromberg carbs

Power 39bhp@5000rpm to 65bhp@6200rpm

Torque 52lb ft @ 2800rpm to 52lb ft @4300rpm

Top speed 75-90+mph

0-60mph 22.1-14sec

Economy 35-50mpg

Gearbox 4-speed all-synchri manual, rear-wheel drive

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Bodywork
Hit and miss anti-corrosion protection at the factory – especially on the earlier cars – means that Imps rust with the best of them. Among the worst culprits in this respect is the double-skinned front bootlid; seemingly minor corrosion along the leading edge of this panel can easily develop into terminal rot if not attended to in time, leaving direct replacement the only really viable option.
Just as obvious will be rotten lower door panels; if the drainage holes get even partially blocked with the usual road detritus, water can get trapped and instigate inexorable corrosion. Frilly lower wings are common for similar reasons, but don’t stop there be sure to remove the spare wheel; the well in which it nestles is notorious for allowing water in, and then slowly rotting away. Be vigilant for lousy welding along the sills, too, and while you’re scrabbling underneath the car take a torch and assess the state of the car’s underside. Don’t expect any car to be rust-free here, but impact damage, especially on any car that has been used in sprints or hill climbs, can be bad news.
Check also the metalwork where the suspension components attach to the car – any significant rot here can dangerously compromise the car’s handling, likewise indifferent welding. You can be sure the car will fail its next MoT, too.
Engine
Dark mutterings about chronic overheating problems have dogged the Imp for years, and while this reputation isn’t entirely underserved, there are precautions that diligent owners can (and do) take to ensure that the Coventry Climax-derived all-aluminium engine keeps its cool.
Chief among these is ensuring that the antifreeze is kept scrupulously topped up, and maintained at a strong enough mixture to prevent any corrosion from setting in. A careful owner will also have made sure that the coolant is fresh and to the recommended level, and sorted any head gasket-related issues before they deteriorate. Low coolant, weak anti-freeze and a head gasket that’s past its best are all sure-fire signs of a car that hasn’t been maintained properly.
Repeated overheating will also eventually have a detrimental effect on the engine block and head (they’re both aluminium, remember) – if the service history makes mention of a recent head or block skim (and this is reinforced by noticeable ‘pinking’ under load), then walk away. Later cars are less prone to overheating, but not immune – what can appear to be a reassuringly low water temperature gauge reading may, in fact, be down to the fact that an unscrupulous vendor has removed the thermostat, so be sure to check it.
Don’t be too put off minor oil leaks – all Imps seep oil to a degree, but major slicks should start alarm bells ringing.
Running Gear
The Imp is a match for the venerable Mini in many respects, and its gearshift quality is one such area. Anything other than slick, razor-sharp up- and down-shifts suggests problems, but since repair costs are often so low, they shouldn’t be a deal-breaker. A woolly shift action is usually as a result of something as simple as shot gearlever bushes, but crunchy shifts – especially in first and second gear – usually means either a re-build or direct replacement is necessary, and direct replacement is an engine-out job.
Suspect worn steering bushes or kingpins on a car whose helm feels overly heavy, and if aftermarket wheels are fitted, make sure they don’t foul the arches.
Interior
You’ll hunt in vain for new-old stock interior or exterior Imp trim these days, but parts back-up from the club is still impressive, with most things available. Hillclimbers tend to strip their cars of superfluous items to keep the weight down, so keep an eye on the small ads – it’s not entirely unheard of for complete interiors in particular to come up for sale from time to time.

OUR VERDICT
For reasons that remain unclear, the Hillman Imp has never really attained the superstar status enjoyed by the Mini, or the strong values maintained by the similar-sized (if somewhat rarer) Renault 8. The most likely reason for this is that reputation for engine overheating, but since most enthusiast-owned cars will have been rectified and properly maintained by now, this hardly seems a problem.
Factor in seating for four, cute good looks, a super-revvy engine, slick gearshift, direct steering and light weight, and the amount of car you get in return for a relatively lowly outlay can prove mighty tempting.

HILLMAN SUPER MINX REVIEW

Hillman

Often overlooked, the Super Minx range offers up something for everyone.

The driving position is surprisingly good, with a decent range of seat adjustment. The steering wheel is offset a little from the big pedal pads, but you soon became accustomed to this. The car is free from serious wind noise at high speed, and the ride on all but rough surfaces is good, with the high spring rates limiting bounce and pitch and a stiff front anti-roll bar limiting roll movement.

Handling is almost identical to the rest of the Hillman and small Humber group, and errs on the side of final understeer. While the effect of this is to make the car a little heavy to haul around short, tight corners, it makes it very safe and stable at sensible speeds. The steering is quite light and accurate, but does get a little spongy towards each extremity of lock. Despite the use of a live rear axle and conventional springing, it is difficult to induce axle tramp. The Mark II has slightly improved disc brakes, and stops well for a family car, with average pedal pressures and no sign of fade under normal use.

VITAL STATISTICS

1961 Hillman Super Minx

Engine 1592cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm) 62bhp@4800rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 84lb ft@2800rpm

Top speed 80mph

0-60mph 20sec

Consumption 25mpg

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

Super Minxes were poorly rustproofed when new, so most have required major repairs by now. Wheelarches often rot out, so check them carefully for filler. Wings themselves last well, but corrosion can often occur where the inner and outer panels meet. Front valances and the leading edge of the bonnet are other common rot spots.

Also examine each sill along its length, especially on convertibles – the structural strengthening that runs along the underside can rust badly, with uneven door gaps being a tell-tale sign that this has occurred. Spring hangers corrode along with the rear footwells, while you also need to examine the fuel tank. Chances are that the underside of the tank itself will have rusted, along with the panelling surrounding it – repair in this area is tricky, so be on your guard. Finally, always check the drainage holes aren’t blocked.

Check the underside of each door, as rust there is difficult to spot from the outside. Door skins can also rot badly, but the door frames themselves tend to be resilient. You also need to lift up the carpets and have a good look at the metal beneath, particularly in the front footwells – leaking windscreens mean water is often trapped there, with obvious and troublesome consequences.

ENGINE

Super Minxes used a 1592cc engine until 1965, when it was replaced with a 1725cc version of the same unit. The former is capable of over 100,000 miles between rebuilds, while the beefier latter can manage around double that figure. Whatever unit is under the bonnet, dip the clutch to see if the revs drop, betraying worn main bearings and tired rear crankshaft thrust washer. The only fix is a bottom end rebuild. Rattling from the front of the engine suggests a worn timing chain, while excessive tappet noise could be due to poor adjustment, though worn tappets and followers are more likely. The 1725cc unit has a cast-iron block and a head of either cast iron or alloy. It’s crucial that anti-freeze has been maintained at a ratio of 50:50 in order to prevent internal corrosion

RUNNING GEAR

Gearboxes offered for Super Minxes included a conventional manual or less common automatic. The former didn’t receive synchromesh on first gear until 1964. Overdrive was available as an option from the beginning of production, but few buyers specified it, and consequently it’s very desirable today. If overdrive is present, then make sure it functions smoothly – any problems are likely to be electrics-related, so check for a duff relay, solenoid or dodgy wiring connections. A Smiths Easidrive automatic gearbox was available until 1962, before being replaced by a Borg-Warner 35 unit, but you’re unlikely to find a car with the former today.

BRAKES

Steering is via a recirculating ball steering box, that needs to be examined for leaks and overtightening. Any tight spots as you turn the wheel are indicative of the latter. Unless they have been horrendously neglected however, the ‘boxes will rack up extensive mileages. All Super Minxes have front disc brakes, apart from very early cars up to October ’62.

INTERIOR

Damaged seats are a particular problem, usually only fixed by investing in a retrim. Look out for splits and tears, as well as stitching coming undone. Driver’s seat diaphragms suffer through years of use, as the rubber membrane sags and breaks. Repairs need to be effected with webbing, as originals are no longer available. when examining a prospective purchase. A large number of detail changes over the years make tracking down exterior trim difficult.

OUR VERDICT

Announced in October 1961, the Super Minx gave Rootes an expanded presence in the upper echelons of the family car market. It was bigger, heavier and accordingly more expensive than the mere Minx, so Rootes management decided to release it as a separate model, with ‘Super’ added to highlight its improvements. The body retained the family resemblance, but underneath the mechanicals were broadly the same. Alongside saloon and estate models, a fetching four-seater convertible was introduced in 1962.

The Super Minx engine originally had a cast-iron cylinder head, though on later cars this was replaced with an aluminium version. Suspension was independent at the front using coil springs with anti-roll bar and at the rear had leaf springs and a live axle. The Super Minx saloon and its Singer relatives were replaced by the Rootes ‘Arrow’ range when the Hillman Hunter and Singer Vogue were launched at the London Motor Show in October 1966.

It’s hard to see why Super Minxes still seem so underrated – they are eminently usable, practical and are more than capable of keeping up with modern traffic. Specialists are few and far between, but great club support should help point you in the right direction, so find a good one and you won’t regret it.

HILLMAN MINX REVIEW

Hillman

The last car to bear the Minx name has almost been forgotten, but that’s no reason not to hunt out a good one and wallow in a bit of late-’60s nostalgia

Your first impression as you settle behind the wheel will probably be of how airy and spacious the cabin feels. The windows are deep and give a good view out all round the car. Instruments are clear, although rather basic, and there are no surprises with the switchgear or controls.

The rugged and long-lasting engine isn’t particularly quiet and even revving it hard won’t deliver strong acceleration. However, once you’ve settled into the Minx’s rhythm, it can be quite relaxing to drive. The controls are light, the gearchange quite slick, and the brakes really very good. Overall, though, the car has that predictable if slightly stodgy feel that the average British buyer liked in the mid-1960s. Setting the world on fire hadn’t been part of the design brief.

VITAL STATISTICS

Hillman Minx

Engine 1496cc/4-cylinder/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm) 54bhp@4600rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 73lb ft@2500rpm

Top speed 83mph

0-60mph 15.5sec

Consumption 26mpg

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

Broadly speaking, mechanical faults on these cars are easy to fix, body problems can be expensive, and interior problems will be a real challenge. It’s vital to ensure that the interior is all in good condition.

Non-functioning instruments and switches may be obtainable from specialist breakers, but damaged door cards and seats are virtually irreplaceable items.

At the front of the car, check the front wings directly above the headlights, because this area is a known rust-trap that can get out of control in a hurry. The trailing edges of the front wings can often rust severely too, and corrosion may also affect the A-pillars and outer edges of the bulkhead. It’s advisable to check for problems here by opening the front doors and gently working them up and down to feel for weakness in the hinge mountings.

The front valance is often in a very poor state, as it gets bombarded by stones and road dirt, and owners tend to miss it when washing the cars. Behind the valance, a more serious problem can be rust in the mounting points for the suspension tie-bars. Open the bonnet to check the state of the inner wings and the chassis leg where the steering box is mounted. Oddly enough, the area around the top mountings for the MacPherson struts is not particularly rust-prone, although it is unlikely to be wholly sound.

In the middle of the car, check the bottoms of the doors, where blocked drain holes cause door bottoms to rot out from the inside. Take a good look at the inner and outer sills (which are structural), and at the outrigger sections of the "chassis". A notorious rot-spot is the floor pan underneath the pedals, where water can collect under the carpet if the windscreen seal is leaking. As such, the pungent smell of damp carpets is a bad sign on these cars.

ENGINE

Although the Rootes engines used in these cars were updated with five main bearings, the Minx versions retained the iron heads from the previous generation of engines. That can be a blessing in disguise since the new alloy heads tended to corrode and that led to overheating and warped heads when the waterways silted up. It’s quite possible that you will find a Minx that has been modified with an alloy head to get more power; if it has twin carburettors as well, then elements of the Holbay-tuned 1725cc engine may have been added.

RUNNING GEAR

The gearbox was designed for the previous generation of Rootes Group models, but the change action should still feel quite slick and positive. If it is vague and notchy – or worse, noisy – suspect excessive gearbox wear. As for the synchromesh, it tends to fail on second gear before any of the others. Back axles can whine a little, but are pretty tough and can easily last for 100,000 miles without needing a major overhaul.

BRAKES

Don’t expect too much from the suspension, but it should be reasonably firm and not at all soggy. If the car handles like an oil tanker, budget for a suspension overhaul. New dampers, lower swivels and track rod ends will usually do the trick.

OUR VERDICT

Ever since 1931, the Hillman Minx had stood for dependable family motoring, and the last of the breed was planned as a conventional, affordable saloon which would do the same.

For most of the 1960s the Minx and its derivatives were the greatest-volume seller in a competitive market. Success came in the form of the vast Rootes "Arrow" range, which kicked off with the Hillman Hunter in 1966. The Minx was introduced a year later and was a determinedly low-spec model, with smaller 1.5-litre engine. Bizarrely, the estate variant was never a Minx in Britain, but just a "Hillman estate car"!

The attraction of the "New Minx" was its size: "the world’s most trusted car goes excitingly big" claimed Rootes advertising at the time.

It really was quite spacious, too, although the idea of excitement was never in the designers’ minds. Minxes lasted to 1970, when their place in the Rootes range went to the Avenger. Today, a Minx is for nostalgia, and "my dad had one of those" is a great reason for owning this humble saloon.

There are so few Minxes left today that anyone who’s keen to get one will likely go after the first one that’s advertised. However, as finding parts can be tricky and prices are pretty low even for the best cars, don’t try to rescue a basket case. Buy the best you can find – it makes sense to buy a spares car, too.

The Minx was never intended to be anything other than an utterly conventional family saloon, so don’t expect amazing dynamics. On the other hand, owning and caring for one of these cars will give you a far better insight into 1960s/1970s motoring than any number of the classic "favourites" from the era. The Minx pottered about its business without occasioning comment. Sadly, you’ll probably have to spend a lot of your time today looking out for idiots who have no appreciation of the performance and handling limits of an older car.

HONDA BEAT REVIEW

Honda

The Honda Beat was one of several small sports cars conceived to take advantage of Japans tax-efficient K class. Powered by a diminutive 656cc three-cylinder motor, the mid-engined Honda Beat had a healthy 75bhp and weighed just 1,700lbs. With a top speed of 90mph, 60mph came up in just 9 seconds. Produced between 1991 and 1995, the Beat was never imported officially into the UK, the 100 or so examples believed to be here having been brought in privately.

HONDA CRX REVIEW

Honda

The CRX stands out from the 1980s crowd. We offer buying advice for these quirky Japanese hot hatchbacks...

The Honda CRX is proof that size isn’t everything. Offering go-kart thrills in a useable package, this is a true classic.

Think of a classic hot hatchback and GTi offerings from Peugeot and Volkswagen spring to mind. But there is one oft-overlooked machine that will change your outlook on performance cars the Honda CRX.

To view the CRX as a sporting derivative of the Honda Civic is to underestimate this diminutive Japanese offering. Front-wheel drive it may be, but Honda’s engineering prowess transformed the shopping trolley underpinnings. Lithe, nimble and coupled to a rev-happy 1488cc fuel-injected engine, the lightweight sport-hatch body meant the CRX was more than just a pretty face. Light weight ensured the little car could fly, putting 118mph within reach.

Reaching the UK in 1984, a 125bhp, 1590cc 4-cylinder engine quickly replaced the original. Competitively priced against the likes of the Fiat X1/9 and Ford Escort XR3i, the CRX was supplanted by a redesigned version in 1987.Provided you can find one, this tiny 2+2 is a genuine bargain. Offering frugal fuel consumption and Japanese reliability, the CRX could be one of the smartest car purchases you’ll ever make.

On paper, the CRX is nothing out of the ordinary. After all, front-wheel drive, a monocoque bodyshell and torsion bar front and semi-independent rear suspension (replaced by a fully independent system in 1987) are hardly the stuff of dreams. It’s the way the components are used that makes it remarkable.That chassis is taut and setup for high-speed cornering, the little engine is big hearted and hardrevving, and the 2+2 bodyshell positions it occupants close to the road, performance-car style. Thanks to Honda’s mechanical trickery (especially with post- 1990 VTEC valve gear), performance is electrifying.

Handling is inspired, being as lithe and as nimble as you’d expect from a car of such light weight. Tackling twists and turns is something the grippy CRX was designed to cope with. Servo-assisted brakes make light work of stopping, and the lack of power steering is barely noticeable. Within, the rear seats may be suitable only for children, but their folding nature helps to exploit the rear-hatch’s useful – if not brilliant – luggage space. Hip-hugging front seats match the car’s hard-cornering nature.

VITAL STATISTICS

HONDA CRX

Engine 1595cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm) 150bhp@7500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 106lb ft@6500rpm

Top speed 129mph

0-60mph 7.9sec

Consumption 34mpg

Gearbox 5-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

In common with many older Japanese vehicles, rust is a major consideration with the CRX. You should start your inspection with the floorpans, which typically corrode at the corners. Watch out for any hastily-welded repairs that may have been carried out here to nurse a car through an MoT. Ask if the owner has been diligent with rustproofing measures, as this can substantially lengthen the CRX’s lifespan.

Plastic bodykits were once popular with many owners, so if the car you’re inspecting has had additional panels fitted, check that this has been done well. Corrosion can set in beneath plastic trim, and can go unchecked until serious damage has been done. Plastic sill trims are notorious for this, so check very closely for indication of corrosion – bubbling around the trim edges or bleeding from underneath the panels are telltale signs. The front nose cone is plastic, rather than steel, in addition to the bumpers. As a result, impact damage is a problem in these areas.

ENGINE

Honda has long prided itself on reliability, and the CRX is no exception. All of the different capacity engines are long-lived, and should prove straightforward for the home mechanic to keep in good order. However, beware of examples which have led a hard life – excessive smoking could point to worn valve seats or bores. Ask if the cambelt has been changed every 60,000 miles or five years, and that the service schedule has been adhered to. Check that the gearchange is smooth and graunch-free – second gear sychromesh can weaken on high-mileage ‘boxes. Clutches can also wear out if abused – however, replacement of these shouldn’t be too expensive.

RUNNING GEAR

With the steering on full-lock, listen out for a clicking sound from the front wheels – this indicates that the CV joints are nearing the end of their lives. If the rubber boot has split, then this will have allowed the joint’s grease to spill out, which will lead to it wearing out. Fortunately, replacement CV joint kits are readily available.

Dampers should be in tip-top condition or else road-holding is likely to be impaired. Bes sure to watch out for

any buckling to the alloy wheels, which is usually as a result of kerbing.

INTERIOR

Outer panels are as vulnerable to the rust bug as the inner structure, so look out for bubbling or more obvious rust damage to the door bottoms, rear quarters and tailgate. On second-generation cars, the tailgate features a second glass panel positioned vertically, in addition to the slanted rear window. Check these glass pieces very carefully for damage and for signs of cracking.

Having once been the darling of boy racers, accident damage is a key concern with any survivor of the model. Look out for evidence of poor crash repairs, most notably any distortion and rippling of the inner body structure, including inner wings and floorpans. Overspray and excessive use of filler are also clues that all is not well. Honda’s build quality is still world-renowned, so the cars would not have had uneven panel gaps from new – if this is so, then further investigation is needed.

OUR VERDICT

Despite their rarity in the UK, the CRX is very affordable but that doesn’t mean that Honda’s pocket-rocket is a lesser car than its better-appreciated contemporaries. Offering a remarkably exciting driving experience, the tiny 1980s hatchback is a well-kept secret in the classic car world, marking the point that sophisticated, ultra-sharp Japanese technology started to dominate the automotive world.

Provided you can track down one which hasn’t been ravaged by three decades of rust, then you’re unlikely to stop grinning from the moment you slip behind the wheel. The CRX makes sense for the head, as well as the heart, with its meagre thirst for fuel and Honda reliability. Rarely does a car provide so much enjoyment, for such little outlay. When you get into a Fintail, you can’t fail to be impressed by how spacious it is, especially compared with modern cars. You sit high up on a fairly firm seat and the wheel in front of you with its chrome horn ring seems just huge. Then there’s that extraordinary vertical strip speedometer, a column change (in most cars) and an umbrella handbrake under the dash.

None of the engines is particularly quiet, a failing of most OHC designs of the time. Worn engines can be very noisy at the top end, though. The gears slot in nicely, although the intermediates don’t feel ideally spaced. Automatics work well enough but the changes can be a bit rough.

On the road, you’ll quickly adapt to the car’s natural rhythm. The suspension is very soft, and on later cars a Boge self-levelling strut at the rear was used to prevent tail-end droop when laden. All that of course makes for plenty of suspension wallow over bumps and plenty of cornering roll, but a Fintail soon begins to feel right, and after a while you’ll forget how old the car is and will settle down to enjoying the drive. That’s it – you’re hooked!

Think of a classic hot hatchback and GTi offerings from Peugeot and Volkswagen spring to mind. But there is one oft-overlooked machine that will change your outlook on performance cars: the Honda CRX. To view the CRX as a sporting derivative of the Civic is to underestimate this diminutive Japanese offering. Front-wheel drive it may be, but Honda’s engineering prowess transformed the shopping trolley underpinnings. Lithe, nimble and coupled to a rev-happy 1488cc fuel-injected engine, the lightweight sport-hatch body meant the CRX was more than just a pretty face. Light weight ensured the little car could fly, putting 118mph within reach.

Reaching the UK in 1984, a 125bhp, 1590cc 4-cylinder engine quickly replaced the original. Competitively priced against the likes of the Fiat X1/9 and Ford Escort XR3i, the CRX was supplanted by a redesigned version in 1987. Provided you can find one, this tiny 2+2 is a genuine bargain. Offering frugal fuel consumption and Japanese reliability, the CRX could be one of the smartest car purchases you’ll ever make.

HONDA NSX REVIEW

Honda

The road-car NSX gives race-bred performance. But has this cult supercar character enough to be a compelling classic?

Prodigious. That’s the level of ability of this supercar from Honda. You can trickle it around town forever, and it’ll never overheat or let you down. It’ll always start from cold, warm or hot. And the auto gearbox makes it completely useable, to the extent you’d lend it to your mum. And there’s the top problem for this nigh-perfect coupé. You’d lend it to your mum because, like any Honda, anyone could drive it.

But surely the character of a supercar should be that it requires some degree of skill to pilot? The notion of a supercar is that it makes greater requirements of that pilot, so they can fully appreciate – and then exploit – the performance advantage driving a supercar affords. Yet the NSX is the consummate sheep in wolf’s clothing.Styling is toned down, anyone can drive one, but only the truly committed will get close to appreciating the car’s serious virtue, so well does it hide it.

No matter. At 20-odd years old, this Japanese coupé can still cut it on the road, as a cognoscenti choice and now, as a serious classic alternative: and prices are still accessable.

VITAL STATISTICS

HONDA NSX

Engine 2977cc/V6/dohc-vvc

Power (bhp@rpm) 255bhp@6800rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 135lb/ft@3500rpm

Top speed 158mph

0-60mph 5.0sec

Consumption 22.7mpg

Gearbox 4-speed automatic

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

There’s little to check in the way of bodywork nasties on an NSX – it’s aluminium – save for the usual probems facing high powered supercars. The car should not be an accident-repaired example but a cherished, never been off the road one. Paying for an HPI check on something at 20 years old is an unusual thing to advise, but it’s peace of mind for a prospective buyer.

Also, check the door hinges for wear, especially on the driver’s door. Plus gas struts can weaken where they hold the lids up front and rear. A close examination of the forward facing sections of the panelwork may reveal stone chips – some owners have clear polymer self-adhesive film fitted to ‘protect the paint’ but it also works well to disguise higher mileage. Tell-tale dirt marks where it may have existed (rear arches, around lower front-end) should be microscopically examined. Windscreens can delaminate, and replacing one is an expensive task. Examine the bumpers for repaired scrapes.

ENGINE

The engine is a stunning gem. It is all alloy construction, yet has a bulletproof mien that allows owners to leave the cars for over a year, jump in them and take them on 200-mile journeys with no complaints. Coolant needs to be good quality and changed to maker’s spec, to avoid long-term particulate build-up in the alloy waterways. Also, check the car has a full service history with experienced Honda main-agents. There are few specialists around for these, and unusually, the maker’s garages seem to actually care and work diligently on these cars even as they age.

RUNNING GEAR

The tyres are known to wear fast, with barely 10,000 miles achieved between (expensive) re-rubbering at each corner. Then you’re facing the usual items that might cause problems on a 160mph car – brake discs and pads can need replacement, radiators begin to age and electrical connections can start to cause intermittent problems. Ensure your potential purchase has every item working before parting with any cash. Standard-fit in-car-entertainment was of good quality, but many cars are now fitted with aftermarket CD players, sometimes of dubious merit and quality. Try and refit the factory equipment to keep the car’s value higher.

OUR VERDICT

The NSX is rare – only 6000 per year were built. Buy one, and you’ll have a car that makes you feel truly special, but one that in these straightened financial times doesn’t make you look like you’re flaunting excess cash. As a mid-engined ownership proposition it is cheaper to run than Porsche or Ferrari contemporaries, and comes closer to making sense as a sole classic/everyday purchase than possibly any other 20-year old-car. It’s classless, can fit in at a track day or classic show. Plus you can fit loads of luggage in it. And that can’t be a bad thing.

HONDA S2000 REVIEW

Honda

The Honda S2000 may have ceased production a mere half-decade ago, but from the minute it was unveiled it was guaranteed to become collectible. A no-compromise roadster of the classic rear-wheel drive two-seater variety, the S2000 was intended to be launched for Honda's 50th birthday. But proving that compromise wasn't a word in the Honda dictionary, when company execs tested the prototype S2000 ad felt it needed further work, the project was delayed by a year.
As a result the S2000 was revealed in time for Honda's 51st birthday, and since then it's gone down a storm with press and owners alike. And why wouldn't it? The S2000 looks great, it goes like stink and it's fabulous to drive. Yet you can buy one from just £4000. Why wouldn't you?

VITAL STATISTICS

UK-spec

Engine 1997cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power 237bhp@8300rpm

Torque 153lb ft@7500rpm

Top speed 149mph

0-60mph 5.8sec

Economy 28mpg

Gearbox 6-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Thanks to the fitment of some plastic panels (such as the front and rear bumpers), an aluminium bonnet plus modern (but not generously applied) rustproofing, there should be no significant corrosion on any S2000 - especially if the owner has invested in some wax treatment. But accident damage is another matter, especially on older cars with their less well developed suspension.

Lift the bonnet and look at the inner wings, checking for signs of rippling or welding. Do the same with the boot floor; any poor crash repairs will be obvious in these areas.
Whilst rust anywhere is unlikely, it's still worth analysing the inner rear wheelarches and the leading edge of the sills. Stone chips that have been left to fester can result in corrosion, although it's unlikely to have amounted to much, yet.

Honda offered an optional aluminium hard top, which came as standard on GT-spec cars; there are also aftermarket hard tops available. A fitting kit is required to install a hard top, so any S2000 that hasn't previously featured one will need to have the necessary parts fitted. A used roof, stand, cover and fitting kit can be bought for around £1,000 from owners' forums; fitting details are online at tinyurl.com/75fzlj. Any car with a hard top would also come with a stand and cover, so check they're there. All S2000s are fitted with an electrically retractable soft top whether or not there's a hard top with the car. The soft top does a superb job of keeping the elements out, so if you're used to flappy useless hoods usually fitted to older classics, you're in for a pleasant shock. The soft top is easy to use, so while a hard top is nice for security (and added refinement), the lack of one shouldn't be a deal breaker. You need to check the soft top closely, along with its mechanism, so put it up and down a few times to ensure it works smoothly - be especially wary of cars that have had their hard tops fitted for months (or even years).
Check the hood material around the side windows, as it can wear - also ensure that the plastic window of a pre-MArch 2002 car isn't damaged. LAter cars got a glass rear window; a replacement plastic screen costs around £400, while converting to glass is closer to £1000.

ENGINES
The magnificent naturally-aspirated VTEC four-pot that powers all S2000s is nothing less than a masterpiece. It'll rev to 9000rpm and thanks to the fitment of variable valve timing it's worth venturing towards the red line on a regular basis, to savour the howl as well as the punch. All UK cars got a 1997cc unit, but US and Japanese cars were fitted with a 2157cc unit from 2003 and 2005 respectively.

Very complex, the VTEC engine is nonetheless generally reliable as long as it's properly maintained. That means regular servicing; the original schedule stipulated every 9000 miles or 12 months. Thanks to the fulfilment of a timing chain there's no cambelt to renew, but a healthy engine will get through up to a litre of oil very 1000 miles - and nothing less than fully synthetic will do. Such a high oil consumption has led to lots of engines being damaged through their bearing shells breaking up from a lack of lubrication, so listen for untoward noises at tickover. If a new engine is required, expect to pay £2000-£3000 for a decent used unit.

There are other things that can go wrong too, so on your test drive, check for any hesitation when pulling away. The most likely culprit will be a failed MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor on top of the inlet manifold - bit it could also be a dodgy lambda sensor. The MAP sensor can sometimes be cleaned up; if not, new ones cost around £40. Meanwhile, there are two lambda sensors which have to be replaced if they fail; new ones cost £170.

Naturally you should expect the engine to deliver smooth; linear power throughout the rev range, but if there's any misfiring it could be down to blocked or dirty injectors; a fuel additive may fix things, or new injectors are £70 apiece. Misfires could also be down to one or more faulty coil packs - there's one for each cylinder, and new ones cost £125 each.
Overheating shouldn't be an issue; if it is, expect major trouble ahead as the engine is all-alloy and doesn't respond well getting too hot. On cars built up to 2003 there shouldn't be any more than three bars showing on the digital temperature read out; later S2000s featured different instrumentation, and on these it's OK for up to seven bars to be showing.

TRANSMISSIONS
Power is transmitted to the rear wheels via a six-speed manual gearbox (there was no auto option) and a Torsen limited-slip diff. You're unlikely to encounter significant problems, aside from a worn-out clutch once 70,000 miles have been racked-up. New ones cost £430.

STEERING & SUSPENSION
Electric power steering was standard from the outset, but early cars were criticised for their lack of feel. Honda responded by fitting a less direct rack in 2004; combined with significant suspension changes, the difference in the driving experience is very noticeable. Whatever is fitted, expect it to be reliable.

More likely to be a problem is the imprecise handling because of split castor bushes and/or misaligned suspension. Repairs are complicated by the fact that the offset bolts through the Metalastik lower wishbone bushes tend to seize, and much cutting plus the wholesale replacement of the wishbones is the only solution.

As if this isn't enough, the radius arms incorporated into the rear suspension design are also fitted with offset bolts through their bushes, and these also seize - putting everything right with aftermarket parts can run to £1000 if it's been neglected. That's why it's worth looking in the service history for evidence of the suspension having been adjusted and greased regularly.

WHEELS & BRAKES
All S2000 were supplied with alloy wheels, initially 16 inches then from 2004 they were 17 inches across. Various designs were fitted; whatever is there it's worth checking for corrosion as many cars were afflicted with it. Some cars got replacement wheels under warranty; if you're a stickler for originality it's worth checking that the correct design is fitted.

With servo-assisted discs all round (ventilated at the front) and anti-lock tech as standard for all cars, the S2000's anchors aren't lacking. However, while the footbrake works superbly, the handbrake is notoriously poor, although it should be able to pass an MoT easily enough. Check that it'll hold the car on an incline; if it doesn't, it should be simply a matter of adjusting and lubricating it.

TRIM & ELECTRICS
Leather trim was standard from the outset, and thanks to the use of good-quality hide there shouldn't be any wear issues unless the car has been left in the sun and the trim has been allowed to dry out and crack up. The bolsters may be worn on high-mileage cars and the stitching could show some signs of wear, but the leather itself should be fine.

The quality of some of the interior plastics left a lot to be desired, especially some of the clips and fixings. The standard radio is poor, so lots of S2000s have an aftermarket unit fitted; whoever installed it will probably have damaged the radio surround as it's fragile.
Predictably, the S2000 features an ECU that manages key aspects of the car, not least of all the fuelling and ignition. By modern standards it's not all that complex and it's possible to buy a diagnostic tool for £40, or somebody on the club forum will probably lend one to you. With one of these you can diagnose faults and also see if there are any electrical or electronics issues in the car's history.

OUR VERDICT
Proving that Honda got the car right at the outset, there were only minor changes to the S2000's specification during its decade of production. However, they were useful changes; early cars were easy to get out of shape which is why the suspension was upgraded several times. By 2005 (for the 2006 model year) ESP was offered and from 2007 it was standard - and it's well worth having. As a result it's worth going for a later car if you can afford one, especially for track day work.

Significantly modified cars should generally be avoided, as reliability might be compromised. The standard car is so good there's really no need for upgrades.
Also be wary of personal imports, especially if they have no service history. Watch too for neglected cars - there's no shortage of tatty S2000s out there but there are lots of minters as well.

The key thing is not to rush into a purchase and buy a dog, only to find that the cost of bringing it up to standard is higher than buying a top example. That's advice that may be sound for any used car - but because the S2000 is such a recent classic, it's easy to assume you can disregard it. You can't...

HONDA INTEGRA TYPE R (1995-2001) REVIEW

Honda

The R stands for Racing, so from the outset Honda’s intentions were clear with its Integra Type R. But nobody expected this unassuming coupé to be this good...

It would now be hard to imagine Honda without its Type R division, but until the Integra Type R of 1997 we’d never heard of the Japanese marque’s sporting offshoot. The Japanese market had been able to enjoy a track-ready Integra for a full two years already and in 1992 there had been an NSX Type R for the home market, but for UK buyers this was their first chance to dip into the Type R brand.

It was worth the wait though, as the hotted-up coupé is regarded by many as the best front-wheel drive sportscar ever made. Yes – it really is that good to drive. When Russell Bulgin reviewed it for Car magazine he described how its ‘race car throttle sensitivity and rev lunacy’ combined with ‘fetishistic levels of steering and precision braking.’ He concluded the Type R was ‘as extreme a car as you can buy.’

It’s easy to see why the Integra is so highly regarded, because in typical Honda fashion there were no half measures. The bodyshell was strengthened with extra spot welds and strategically-placed thicker metal, but to offset any weight gain there was a thinner windscreen, lighter wheels plus less soundproofing. Naturally the 1.8-litre engine was also beefed up with high-compression pistons, polished intake ports and a revised VTEC system. The result was 187bhp, 131lb ft of torque and a red line set at a crazy 8700rpm.

Tipping the scales at just 1140kg the Integra Type R, internally codenamed DC2, could despatch the 0-60mph sprint in just 6.2 seconds before topping out at 145mph. But to focus on the stats is to do the Integra a major dis-service; it’s the way the car steers, handles, brakes and rides that makes it such a thriller. One of those rare cars that’s as much at home on the track as the public road, the Honda is good enough to make you revise your opinions if you’re a die-hard rear-wheel drive enthusiast – it really is that good.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine 1797cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power 187bhp@8000rpm

Torque 131lb ft@7300rpm

Maximum speed 137mph

0-60mph 6.2sec

Fuel consumption 28-35mpg

Transmission FWD, 5-speed man

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

SHELL SCRUTINY

All UK-market Integra Type Rs initially came in Championship White, although red and black followed in 1999. Many of the cars here weren’t originally sold in the UK; official cars have four circular headlamps while grey imports have rectangular lights, although conversions from UK to JDM (Japanese Domestic Market) are common. If buying an import check the service history, make sure the car is road legal in the UK and that it’s been properly undersealed. Corrosion is a big problem with UK cars; JDM Integras are undersealed, but not as extensively as UK examples. Whatever you’re buying check the rear wheelarches for rust, along with the spare wheel well and the boot, as water gets past the rear light seals.

Thanks to low values, many Integras have passed through the hands of owners with more driving enthusiasm than skill, so scrutinise all panel gaps which should be tight and even. Also check the boot floor and front inner wings for rippling; if you spot any, find another car. JDM cars are more likely to have been crashed than UK editions, and it’s impossible to ascertain their history.

ENGINE EXAM

Despite the stratospheric redline and high specific power output, the B18C twin-cam engine is incredibly reliable if looked after. That means oil changes every 6000 miles using a fully synthetic lubricant, and a fresh cambelt plus new spark plugs every five years or 60,000 miles. The coolant and fuel filters should also have been replaced within the last four years or 48,000 miles. Check that the official Honda air filter is still fitted; aftermarket ones tend to strangle the engine at high revs.

If there are rattles from underneath as the car is driven, the chances are it’s nothing more serious than a loose heatshield on the exhaust; it can be tightened up in minutes. Knocks as the engine is revved is probably because it’s making contact with the bodywork because of a failed rear engine mount, but it’s easily replaced.

TRANSMISSION TEST

The transmission is strong but it’ll take only so much abuse. All Type Rs came with a five-speed manual gearbox, a limited-slip diff and a hydraulic clutch; the slave cylinder for the latter is prone to leaks. A grinding noise when you dip the clutch suggests the release bearing has had it but the gearbox bearings could be tired; a gearbox rebuild costs £300-£500. Also check for crunching gear changes at high revs which means the synchromesh has had it.

KEEP US IN SUSPENSE

Few people buy one of these cars to potter about in, so the brakes and suspension have a hard time. While there are no inherent weaknesses, the suspension bushes (especially in the trailing arms) are likely to be tired so home in on them first – polyurethane replacements are available. Also, while the brakes are perfectly adequate even for fast road use, excursions onto the track will probably lead to them wearing out so feel for juddering under braking, betraying warped discs. Everything is available and there are plenty of upgrades available, and unless you get carried away parts costs are eminently reasonable. Also take a look at the gaiters on the steering rack; these split which is an automatic MoT failure – and splits won’t do the rack much good either.

ELECTRICKERY

As long as the electrical system hasn’t been butchered it should be reliable, largely because the Integra isn’t crammed with luxury equipment. It does have an electric aerial though, which can fail because of water getting into the mechanism causing it to seize. If the aerial is then activated there’s a good chance a fuse will blow, so if it won’t go up or down at all, that’s probably why. Also make sure that the red ignition key is available with the regular key. If you lose the regular ignition key and you don’t have this red alternative, you’ll have to stump up for a replacement from a Honda dealer and they’re expensive.

OUR VERDICT

You’ve got to have the driving experience high on your list of priorities to understand the Integra’s appeal, but if you want to savour every drive this is the car for you. Throw in incredible reliability plus a decent level of practicality and you’ll see this is no one-trick pony. Just don’t let anybody tell you the Honda isn’t a classic.

HUMBER HAWK (SERIES I-IVA) 1957-’67 REVIEW

Humber

With plenty of space and refinement, the Hawk offers something for everyone.

Rootes pulled off a nifty trick when it launched the new Hawk model in 1957. That curvy, chrome-laden body, complete with wraparound windscreen, had all the styling cues adopted ‘across the pond’ just a few years earlier, yet it was never viewed as a brash American wannabe in the way that many contemporary Vauxhalls and Fords were. Perhaps perceptions were swayed by the interior, resplendent with polished walnut and a neat array of conventional round instruments. Either way, the resulting package is extremely alluring, and has an appeal all of its own that still resonates today.

VITAL STATISTICS

Humber Hawk (Series IA-IVA)

Engine 2267cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm) 73bhp@4400rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 120lb ft@2300rpm

Top speed 84mph

0-60mph 20sec

Consumption 19mpg

Gearbox 4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

Sills comprise inner, centre and outer panels. All three corrode in unison, but a common bodge is to fit new outers over weakened inners, so be aware of this and check thoroughly. Windscreens tend to leak from the lower corners, causing rust in the A-posts. These are difficult areas to repair because several panels meet up behind them. Front footwells corrode from the bulkhead end backwards, so lift the carpets and have a good root around under there.

If you find underbody seal or new paint, then be particularly suspicious. Rear wheelarches rust, but repair panels are available. The outer edges of the boot floor are attacked from beneath by road spray from the rear wheels, meaning they often rust. Check the spare wheel while you’re there, too. The lower rear corners of the rear wings also suffer from spray damage.

ENGINE

The Hawk’s 2.3-litre engine was shared with the Sunbeam-Talbot 90 and lived on in the Commer van. It is a tough unit, the only significant design flaw being the four-bearing crankshaft that can snap due to over-advanced ignition timing. Oil pressure at tickover will be around 25psi on a healthy engine, but the reading at 50mph is a truer indication of bearing condition. It should be 40-50psi. If it’s more like 10psi, budget for new bearing shells and a crank regrind. Noisy tappets could be down to badly adjusted valve clearances, but a worn rocker shaft is more likely.

The Hawk’s manual gearbox began life in the Hillman Minx of 1936, and is a known weak point. There is no synchromesh on first gear, meaning it is prone to sheared teeth. Ensure it changes smoothly on a test drive, then, with the engine idling, listen carefully for noises from worn bearings that disappear when you depress the clutch.

RUNNING GEAR

An inch of free play at the steering wheel is usual, but be wary if there is more. There are more than 20 grease nipples on the front suspension alone – each needs a squirt every 1000 miles or so. If this hasn’t been done, be prepared for consequent wear.

When in good nick, the suspension gives a very smooth ride. Some wallow is to be expected, but don’t confuse this with worn out joints. Use a lever to test for play in the fulcrum pins.

INTERIOR

Have a good look at the walnut dash for cracks and signs of water or sunlight damage. Make sure the indicator and choke switches function, and examine the steering wheel for cracks. Decent replacements for any of these are scarce, so be wary. Don’t ignore the carpets, either – they’re made from high-quality stuff, and it can get surprisingly expensive to replace shoddy examples.

HUMBER SCEPTRE MK I-II REVIEW

Humber

Luxury saloons rarely offer greater value for money than the Humber Sceptre – especially when they make such superb everyday classics.

Some classics are criminally undervalued. Take the Humber Sceptre. So much more than a posh Super Minx, the smallest car in the Humber range was a cut above its proletarian brethren.
With its quad headlamps and uniquely raked roofline setting it apart from the Hillmans and Singers, the Sceptre straddled the chasm between family five-seater and upper-crust cruiser – a true gentleman’s express. Following on from the upgraded Mark IA (only current from 1964-65), Mark II Sceptres lost the impressive front-end styling, but gained the indestructible 1725cc engine.
For those who crave the quality and sheer elegance of the big Humber Hawks and Super Snipes, but can’t justify owning a leviathan-sized bruiser, the Sceptre makes a lot of sense. Big enough to cosset and cocoon its occupants, yet compact enough for city parking, it is still a very usable car.
However, values don’t seem to reflect the Sceptre’s versatility. Only the very best Sceptres reach the £4000 mark, while less than half that will secure a good, usable example. Sharing many parts with other Rootes products, and with the Post Vintage Humber Car Club dedicated to remanufacturing hard-to-find items, the Humber is certainly no harder to keep on the road than the majority of classics.

VITAL STATISTICS

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

1 Typically for most 1960s saloons, rust is a major concern. The sills are crucial for bodyshell strength, so inspect them carefully. Try to ascertain if cover sills have been fitted. Welded over the top of rotting originals, these allow corrosion to carry on its dirty work unnoticed.

2 There should be two jacking points located beneath each bumper at either end of the car. If these are absent or in poor condition, then expect the main chassis rails to which they attach to be in need of repair work. Rear spring hangers and chassis outriggers often suffer thanks to accumulated road muck, so check carefully.

3 Inspect the fuel tank well within the nearside rear quarter. If moisture collects here, the whole area can rapidly disappear. If the rubber drainage pipe from the fuel filler recess has split or is missing, then rainwater will be directly channelled into this problem area. Filler is a common bodge here.

4 Wheel arches are vulnerable to rust, with the arch lips often going frilly – check if everything is as it should be here. Again, see if filler is hiding any holed areas.

5 Front and rear valances can suffer, as do the door bottoms – any rippling here could indicate a poor skin repair. The small length where the scuttle and A-post join (only visible with the front door open) also rots out where leaves and debris collect. Finally, leaking front and rear screen seals can lead to the roof pillars corroding – a glass-out job to fix.

6 Brightwork should be inspected to ensure it is all present and correct – any missing pieces will be a headache to track down, as very few of these parts were shared with the Super Minx and Singer Vogue. The same goes for the interior trim – although made from hard-wearing vinyl, splits and tears will require repair. Also inspect the unique dashboard.

7 The 1592cc engine used in Mark I Sceptres is capable of more than 100,000 miles if regularly serviced. However, the 1725cc unit in the Mark II can take more than 150,000 miles in its stride, thanks in part to five main bearings (the smaller engine only having three). However, both engines can suffer from excessive crankshaft end float.

8 Mark I Sceptres were fitted with overdrive as standard – electrical problems such as a poor earth or failed relay could be behind this not functioning as it should. An automatic option, using a Borg Warner gearbox, was offered with the Mark II
– ensure that this works correctly.

9 Neglected steering boxes on high-mileage cars can wear out – oil leaks are easy to spot, but any tight spots spell replacement. Most brake parts are available new, although master cylinders are difficult to track down – fortunately, rebuild kits are available. Aside from occasional greasing, the suspension shouldn’t provide any problems.

AT THE WHEEL

The Sceptre is a particularly sturdy car. While lesser machines have a tendency to rattle and squeak along the road, the Humber feels solid as a rock. But this old-fashioned solidity comes at a price – weight. Those torquey engines are more than capable of dealing with this, but it puts the kibosh on lightning-fast acceleration, as well as frugality – don’t expect mpg to exceed the mid-20s.
The Sceptre is still reasonably keen to tackle corners so long as radial tyres are fitted, although dignified cruising is more its forté.

VERDICT

As an endearing mix of old-fashioned charm and 1960s glamour, the Sceptre is nigh-on unbeatable. No matter if you’re looking for an easy-to-live-with entry into the classic car world, or a comfortable saloon you can use every day, you could do far worse.
Although an increasingly large range of spares is on offer for these cars, there are still plenty of Humber-specific parts which could elude the home restorer. Provided a project car is largely complete, however, there’s no reason why all but the rustiest Sceptres
can’t be returned to their former glory.
Set your sights a little higher and the Humber becomes a bit of a bargain. At the moment, it seems that very little cash is needed to secure all but the best examples.

HYUNDAI COUPE REVIEW

Hyundai

Bored of the usual modern classic coupés? Try something Korean and you might just like it.

Successor to the Scoupe, the Coupe improved upon Hyundai’s first attempts at making a sports car by updating the formula with a new bulging body and free-revving, larger engines. Buoyed by its rallying successes with Alister McRae behind the wheel, the Coupe balanced looks and reliability to make a top-notch bargain coupé, undercutting many of its rivals.

VITAL STATISTICS

ENGINE 1975cc/4-cyl/DOHC

POWER 137bhp@6000rpm

TORQUE 133lb ft@4800rpm

MAXIMUM SPEED 125mph

0-60MPH 8.6sec

ECONOMY 27-32mpg

TRANSMISSION FWD, five-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

RUST

Rear arches can literally fall apart, as can the sub frames due to rust. Watch out for it around sunroof and the front edge of the roof around the screen too. The standard wheels can become porous and leak air so it's worth checking for badly repaired ones. Aftermarket alloys might not be to everyone’s taste, but there’s usually a reason why a Coupe will be sporting them. Sills are worth checking, especially where they join rear arches.

WHEEL BEARINGS

Front wheel bearings have a habit of wearing rapidly. Not tricky or expensive to repair, but definitely worth remembering on a test drive. Also up front, brakes can warp but once again, a fairly easy fix. Handbrakes are one of the biggest sources of MoT failures, their poor design means many of them seize, so make sure it works.

ENGINES

Both 1.6-litre and 2.0-litre engines are strong and long lived. Both can usually reach up to 175,000 miles with regular servicing, but they burn oil. Nothing to be concerned about, just remember to check the levels regularly. Gearboxes are strong too, as are clutches. A high biting point doesn’t necessarily mean a tired clutch – they all have that and it’s not something to worry about.

ELECTRICAL NIGHTMARES

Early Coupes are noted for their temperamental electrical systems. Faulty central locking is a common occurrence; so don’t be surprised if you look at one with the central locking not working at all. In many cases, It's simply a case of a replacing an actuator, bought cheaply online. Electric Windows are known to fail, and sometimes become loose in the frame too. Watch out for headlights not working – this is usually caused by the wiring corroding. Electric sunroofs are also prone to failures – replacing the motor usually fixes these issues.

INTERIOR

Interiors are generally hard wearing but are becoming harder to find spares for. Earlier dark interiors have weak leather on the seat bolsters, where as later models seem to have stood the test of time better.

SERVICE HISTORY

Although the Coupe is much loved now, and has several UK based owner’s clubs, at a time it was a bargain basement motor and may have suffered because of it. Check to see the car’s history, has it been maintained at Hyundai garages and specialists or is it missing a significant part of its service history?

OUR VERDICT

The Hyundai Coupe managed to be one of the first cars from Korea that people actually wanted to own, it helped forge the way for the brand to be taken seriously in the UK and its rock hard reliability and swooping curves made it a savvy second-hand purchase. 137bhp, 133lb ft of torque and 125mph is all very good, especially in a car that can be purchased for around £1000. It’s reliable and sporting enough to make it a good buy, and just left-field enough for it to be interesting too.

JAGUAR 420 REVIEW

Jaguar

Launched in 1966, the Jaguar 420 was the final incarnation of Jaguars amazingly successful medium-sized saloon line that had commenced way back in 1955 with the MkI. The newcomer was, in fact, a face-lifted S-Type, the latters Mk2-style front end having been replaced by one reminiscent of the MkX. A development of the hugely successful Mk2, the S-Type/420 differed mechanically by virtue of its independent rear suspension, the latter first seen in saloon form on the MkX. The 4.2-litre XK six-cylinder engine was standard on the 420, which incorporated other improvements such as alternator electrics, a limited-slip differential and dual-circuit brakes. Despite possessing superior handling and greater range than the Mk2, the S-Type and Jaguar 420 have lived in the shadow of their illustrious predecessor and tend to be undervalued even today.

JAGUAR C-TYPE REVIEW

Jaguar

Only 53 true C-type Jaguar chassis numbers were issued between 1951 and 1953, making this relatively sophisticated 'competition' version of the supremely successful production XK120, a rarer model today then its successor, the more flamboyant, more costly and complex D-type, introduced in 1954. The Jaguar C-type was built around a neat, simple and robust multi-tubular spaceframe type chassis, carrying independent front suspension and a live rear axle on torsion bar springs. Initially using drum brakes and special sand-cast twin side-draught SU carburrettors, the 200bhp Jaguar works C-types won the Le-Mans 24-hours endurance race in 1951 (Whitehead/Walker) and 1953 (Rolt/Hamilton). Had there been a World Sports Car Championship in 1951 - one was not instituted until two years later - Jaguar would have won it with their C-type exploits, beating Ferrari back into second place. Manufacture of a limited production run of C-types was planned during 1951, but merely to obtain supplies of sufficient high-grade steel tube for chassis frames caused immense problems in those austere times, due largely to a re-armament programme created by the tensions involving the Korean War. The first production C-type eventually emerged in May 1952, selling to Duncan Hamilton, his son owning the car to this day.

JAGUAR D-TYPE REVIEW

Jaguar

Like its predecessor, the C-Type, the D-type was essentially a factory-built race car, with many sold to privateer racers and road users. Production included 53 customer D-types, 18 factory team cars, and 16 XKSS models.

JAGUAR E-TYPE V-12 SERIES III REVIEW

Jaguar

Dropping a V12 engine into the E-type helped it evolve from a pure sports car into a grand tourer. Here's how to ensure you buy a good one...

If you ask enthusiasts to pick their favourite breed of Jaguar E-type, chances are the Series 3 wouldn't be chosen by many. The E-type was very much a child of the 1960s, but the sleek and stylish star developed middle age spread for the Series 3, 10 years after its debut. Wheelarches flared, extra chrome was added, the almost delicate-looking front grille was enlarged to feature egg-crate slats, disc wheels replaced wires and only longer wheelbase 2+2 roadsters and coupes were available. The purity of the original was replaced by a fussiness that hinted at Jaguar doing all the nips and tucks it could to try to keep the car going until a successor could be found.

However, there was a big bonus with the S3 that you didn't get with any of its predecessors. And that was what was under its long, tapering bonnet. Jaguar had developed a rather glorious 5.3-litre V12 engine intended for the XJ12. But fitting it in the E-type first was a handy way of proving its reliability. With 272bhp on tap, it was a wonderful way of guiding the E-type through its twilight years. And although the V12-powered machines lacked the frantic charisma of the earlier six-cylinder cars, they now had a sophisticated refinement instead that made them excellent GT cruisers. Maybe an earlier E-type could run rings around them in a shorter cross-country blast, but when it came to charging across entire countries on motorways, an S3 was by far the superior choice.

The V12 model stayed in production for just three- and-a-half years until supplanted by the XJ-S. During that time, 14,983 examples were built, with most of the cars going to the United States. It was bedevilled by increasing legislation and a fuel crisis that suddenly made cars unable to haul their fuel consumption out of the teens very unattractive. The final 50 made were finished in black and sported a special numbered dashboard plaque bearing the signature of Sir William Lyons. By then, he'd retired as well... truly the end of two great Jaguar eras.

VITAL STATISTICS

JAGUAR E-TYPE SERIES 3

Engine 5343cc/V12/SOHC

Power (bhp@rpm) 272bhp@5850rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 304lb ft@3600rpm

Top speed 146mp

0-60mph 6.4sec

Consumption 15mpg

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

It costs a lot to restore an E-type, so sometimes jobs can be skimped on or skipped completely. Thus checking everything is vital. As a barometer, look behind the fuel filler flap. If it's grotty on a car that has supposedly been sorted, then other areas may be dodgy too.

Check panel gaps all around - especially where the bonnet meets the bulkhead, the trickiest spot to align. Areas to check for corrosion include the bootlids on roadsters and the door bottoms on all types, due to blocked drainholes. Check in all the boot for collected water. The tubular frame in front of the bulkhead that supports the engine also rusts or cracks and is a mega job to rectify. Bonnet noses, sills, the rear wing edges and below the back bumper are also vulnerable. Underneath, examine the three strengthening ribs.

Look for pitting of Mazak items such as door handles. And thoroughly check the hood of a convertible for marks, splits and easy operation.

ENGINE

The V12 is a tough old thing and probably much less stressed now than when E-types were more enthusiastically driven. Look and listen for overheating and harshness; the block and heads may have been warped. Make sure the thermostatic cooling fan cuts in as it should. On the oil pressure gauge, check for 0lb or higher at 3500rpm. Oil leaks are quite common - if it's from the rear chrankshaft seal though, it's a very pricey job to put right.

A rattle from the front of the engine is likely to be a worn timing chain, especially if is happens when revving or the overrun. this can strike cars after every 35,000 miles or so.

Check all the hoses under the bonnet - there are a mind boggling 20 of them. And while you're at it, also look at the fuel lines, which go brittle as a result of heat. Carburettors can be difficult to tune properly, especially if their diaphragms have perished.

RUNNING GEAR

There's no greater sign that the S3 had metamorphosed into a GT than in the fact that most V12 E-types were fitted with an automatic Borg-Warner Model 12 three-speed automatic transmission. It's pretty tough but look out for jerkiness or slipping, pointing to a service or even a full overhaul being needed. The manual cars can be affected by weak synchromesh on second and third and be concerned if you have real difficulty selecting gears when the gearbox is cold.

On all types, be wary of vibrations, clonks and whining from the differentials and driveshaft during your test drive.

BRAKES

The steering - which is rack and pinion - should feel sharp. Significant play points to worn column universal joints. On the rear suspension, the lower hub pivots have to be greased. If it's been missed you may hear creaking - which means they're corroded and potentially on the way to seizing. If you can jack the car up, check for play at the wheels. The rear ones should have some - if not, then it suggests the bearings have been over-tightened and will wear out soon. There should be less play with the front wheels though. If there's quite a bit, it signals worn bearings or lower wishbone balljoints.

A car where it feels like the back wheels are also steering probbly has worn or broken axle cage mountings. Steel wheels were standard, but wire wheels may have been fitted. Check them for damaged spokes and worn splines.

Brakes can be affected by any leaking oil from the differential getting on the in-board rear ones. The differential needs to be taken out to sort this, which is very involved. Test the handbrake - its self-adusting mechanism needs to be greased and may seize if it isn't.

INTERIOR

Fortunately, the interior isn't something you need to worry about, because practically everything is available. But it just costs quite a bit. Don't under-estimate the price of putting right damaged leather.

Electrical issues are often down to poor earths or bittle wiring, although DIY fiddling can also cause trouble. However, heater motors can stop working - make sure you try it out when you take an S3 for a test drive.

OUR VERDICT

The last of the E-types isn’t everybody’s cup of tea, because it’s set up as a refined and fast grand tourer, not a sports car. Some people argue that the V12 is too refined for the car and seems much more at home in an XJ12 saloon. However, if you love the E-type shape but find the six-cylinder engines a bit too aggressively sporty, then the Series 3 is for you.

There are compromises in the soft-top, such as a foul between the headrests and the hood mechanism when the latter is raised. The long wheelbase also did nothing for the proportions that had worked so well on the earlier cars.

Buying cheaply is potentially risky because of the costs of top-quality repairs and restoration. On the other hand, would you want to drive a concours car every day? We reckon the sensible choice is a mid-priced car that’s been carefully checked by a reputable specialist.

The E-type was already 10 years old and firmly established as a legend when the final Series 3 models were launched in 1971. Powered by the brand new V12 engine that would later be fitted in the Jaguar saloons, both the roadster and fixed-head models were on the longer wheelbase introduced for the 2+2 models. So although they looked like the sports car we all knew and loved, they also had some distinctive differences.

One of those differences was the significantly softer suspension, which taken together with the extra length, made the Series 3s more like grand tourers than the earlier E-types had been. Yet despite this slightly more staid image, the astonishing V12 engine brought its own glamour. Although sales of these thirsty big cats slowed following the 1973 oil crisis, Jaguar kept turning them out until 1975, when the XJ-S took over.

Altogether, there were 15,287 built, of which 7990 were roadsters and 7297 fixed-heads. The last 50 all carried a dashboard plaque bearing the signature of Jaguar’s founder, Sir William Lyons.

JAGUAR MK V REVIEW

Jaguar

Jaguar Cars - as William Lyons SS company had been re-named in 1945 - commenced post-war production with a range of essentially pre-war designs. A considerable improvement on what had gone before, the MkV saloons cruciform-braced chassis featured torsion bar independent front suspension, designed pre-war by the companys Chief Engineer William Heynes, and all-round hydraulic brakes. Jaguars existing Standard-based, six-cylinder, overhead-valve engine was continued in both 2.5- and 3.5-litre forms in the Jaguar Mark V, whose bodywork likewise maintained the pre-war tradition, though with minor up-dating in the form of faired-in headlamps, deeper bumpers, and rear wheel spats. Like its immediate predecessor, the MkV was available in saloon or drophead coup versions and featured the kind of luxuriously appointed interior that had become a Jaguar hallmark. The announcement of Jaguars first new generation post-war saloon - the MkVII - at the 1950 Motor show signalled the end for the MkV, production ceasing in June 1951 after slightly fewer than 10,500 had been built.

JAGUAR MK X REVIEW

Jaguar

Jaguars have always been noted for style, comfort and luxury. We tell you why the MkX definitely fits the bill...

Despite a decent turn of speed in manual form, this isn’t a sporting Jaguar – it’s far too big for any B-road heroics. However, what it does provide in spades is superb comfort. A well-cared for example should start easily and run smoothly and quietly, with all the refinement you expect from the marque.

A neglected car will feel below par straightaway, and is probably best avoided unless you really are after a restoration project. On the road, that innate refinement shines through with a wonderfully cushioned ride and, while steering and brakes may not be the sharpest, they do contribute to a relaxed and stress-free driving experience.

A luxurious cabin adds to that sense of relaxation. It is both spacious and well-equipped and is a delightful place to spend time. The car is great for long journeys as a result of this comfort. Settling into the large leather seats and looking out over that vast bonnet is a fine experience, and there are few better saloon barges of the period if comfort is top of your agenda.

JAGUAR MK2 REVIEW

Jaguar

Stylish and capable, the Mk2 is, without doubt, one of Jaguar’s finest models. We explain how you need to buy carefully...

A well-sorted and cherished Mk2 is an enjoyable car to drive and the very essence of a British sporting saloon. From the luxurious interior to the taut and confidence-inspiring handling, you are unlikely to be disappointed behind the wheel of a good example.

There are some that find the 2.4-litre model a little underpowered, while others insist that the 3.4 is a touch sweeter than the 3.8. But whichever model you go for, you can be assured of an entertaining and enjoyable driving experience.

On the road, the Mk2 retains a wonderful sense of civility and composure and it really is a classic that feels perfectly capable of long distance journeys with little effort. But it isn’t only about comfort – this is a Jaguar with a real sporting edge and enthusiastic use allows you to revel in the roar from the straight six. Stirring stuff indeed.

Opt for an automatic model with power steering and it handles nicely around town as well.

VITAL STATISTICS

JAGUAR MK2

Engine 3781cc/6-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm) 220bhp@5500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 240lb ft@3000rpm

Top speed 125mph

0-60mph 8.5sec

Consumption 17mpg

Gearbox 4-spd manual/4-spd auto opt.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

The monocoque bodyshell is a complex potential rust trap, so proper checks are crucial. Key areas to look at are the floorpan, inner and outer sills, wheel arches, the bottom of the doors, and the wings. The latter are expensive to replace so don’t dismiss any early signs of rot. Pay close attention to the door alignment, which can reveal more serious problems with the shell. Spend plenty of time underneath the car, closely inspecting the box sections and legs of the chassis, the front crossmember (particularly the ‘crow’s feet’ at either end, which are connected to the front valance and cross member), the suspension mountings and jacking points, and also the spare wheel well.

ENGINE

The most popular power unit is the familiar 3.8-litre XK engine. Excessive smoke from the exhaust isn’t necessarily a sign of major problems as it can be caused by blockages in the filter and pipework of the breather system – check here first before assuming the worst. Leaks from the crankshaft’s rear oil seal are a common problem, while a rattle from the front of the engine could be a sign of impending timing chain replacement, which is a tricky and expensive job. That said, low oil pressure can affect the operation of the hydraulic tensioner, leading to poor adjustment; so ensure the oil pressure is healthy – around 50psi when cold, 40psi at normal operating temperature.

ELECTRICS

Secondhand parts can substantially reduce costs. A complete set of wood trim can be had for less than £2000, but could involve a lengthy search for the right parts. Check the electrics thoroughly

as well and ensure all the dials are working.
Many cars have been converted to an alternator set-up, so it’s worth checking for this to see if it has been done.

RUNNING GEAR

The Moss four-speed manual overdrive gearbox is a bit heavy and slow in operation but, apart from worn synchromesh, is otherwise reliable (the later full-synchro Jaguar ‘box is smoother). The overdrive unit itself is generally reliable and can be replaced without removing the gearbox. The Borg Warner Type 35 automatic lasts well with regular fluid changes. Replacing a worn clutch means the engine has to come out – not a cheap fix – so check it carefully on the test drive. A failed master or slave cylinder could be the cause of clutch problems, but you’ll want to be sure.

BRAKES

The suspension system on the Mk2 issimple. A knocking from the front of the car can indicate broken coil springs, while a change to coil springs at the rear is a practical upgrade, so see if this has been done on the car you are looking at. The ride should be comfortable but taut, so any sloppiness could mean that an overhaul is due. Replacing the springs, dampers and bushes isn’t particularly difficult, but the costs can soon mount.

Dunlop disc brakes were standard on the Mk2 and provide decent stopping power if everything is healthy. Brakes can seize on little-used examples, while a weak handbrake isn’t uncommon. A defective servo will be apparent on the test drive and a thorough check of brake lines for signs of corrosion is a sensible precaution. Replacement parts are reasonably priced, so a system in need of overhaul shouldn’t be a deal-breaker. Check for movement in the steering column as this is evidence that the bushes need replacing. The fitment of power steering (a period option) is a popular modification and worth seeking out. If wire wheels are fitted, check for wear in the spokes and splines, as professional refurbishment can be costly.

OUR VERDICT

The Jaguar Mk2 – seemingly the vehicle of choice for bank robbers and fictional TV detectives – has to be one of the most popular classics around. And for good reason. With a superb blend of performance, entertaining handling, and luxury, there’s always demand for the Mk2 among classic car enthusiasts.

There are pitfalls to watch for, so choosing carefully is key when it comes to this wonderful car. Do that and you will end up owning one that is perhaps the true embodiment of Sir William Lyons’ maxim of ‘grace, space, and pace’. You’ll be able to enjoy superb performance from the comfort of a luxurious cabin – few cars having the feelgood factor of a well-sorted Mk2.

There is a thriving owner’s club scene and plenty of specialists that can help keep your car in top-notch condition, while a plentiful parts supply is an added ownership bonus. Follow our advice and find a well-cared for example, and you’ll be ready to enjoy everything this fine British car has to offer.

Securing a tidy example is perfectly possible with a careful approach. We’d advise steering clear of any in need of major restoration – those examples are cheap for a reason – and instead focus on finding a solid, rot-free car.

  Jaguar

  MK2

JAGUAR S-TYPE REVIEW

Jaguar

The Jaguar S-type was launched in 1963 and was based on the styling of the Jaguar Mk2, which had been launched four years earlier. At first glance there is little to tell the two apart, but an expert eye will be drawn to the extended rear bodywork, thinner chrome bumpers and larger indicators. Though a different model, the S-type was essentially an updated version of the Mk2 that featured numerous improvements first seen in the Jaguar MkX. The S-type would fill a niche for consumers who wanted all the technological improvements that came with the larger MkX, but in a smaller package similar to the Mk2.
Among the technological improvements on offer was the independent rear suspension system that was first seen on the MkX, which offered far superior road holding to the live rear axle system used in the Mk2. Though the suspension had changed, the engines stayed the same as in the Mk2 and XK models that came before. Both 3.4-litre and 3.8-litre options were available, but extra weight meant that the performance figures were slightly worse than in the Mk2. Despite the on-paper figures, the S-type was hailed as being a much more capable car, particularly in adverse weather conditions.
The first and most significant wave of developments came only a year after the S-type entered production, in 1964. In line with changing technology, the crossply tyres were changed for radials, which gave the S-type even great roadholding, allowing spirited drivers to better exploit the advanced suspension setup. Also of huge importance was the scrapping of the controversial Moss gearbox, which lacked synchromesh on first gear and had a reputation for being very difficult to use. In its place was a Jaguar unit with synchromesh on all four gears, a unit that proved much more user friendly. An effective Laycock overdrive unit was also introduced.
While early cars are very desirable, the pick of the bunch is cars produced between 1964 and 1966. They benefit from the addition of the more usable and durable gearbox, and also have leather upholstery – which was changed to a cheaper vinyl late in the production run, from 1967 onwards. Luckily, these cars are also the most numerous, with the lion’s share of cars being built in 1965.
Despite the fact that the Jaguar S-type is widely regarded as the better car, values have always trailed behind the Mk2. While the car sold well in period and the technological improvements were well received, the love-it or hate-it styling did not age well. As a result, the S-type presents a fantastic way to get into a real classic Jaguar without breaking the bank.
Incredibly, prices for this wondrous saloon start from less than £10,000, topping out at around £25-30,000.
If you’ve got your heart set on a Jaguar Mk2 we would suggest you go for a quick spin in a S-type before you make up your mind. The improved mechanicals give the S-type much-improved handling – as long as you can get along with that big back end. Values are sure to rise.

VITAL STATISTICS
ENGINE 3781cc/6-cyl/DOHC
POWER 220bhp@5500rpm
TORQUE 240lb ft@3000rpm
TOP SPEED 121mph
0-60MPH 8.5secs
ECONOMY 22mpg
GEARBOX 4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK
Unsurprisingly, weakened bodyshells are the cause of most S-types being scrapped. The Mk1 (which evolved into the Mk2 then the S-type) was Jaguar’s first monocoque model, so its structure incorporates numerous rust traps – it doesn’t help that Jaguar applied virtually no rust prevention measures. Take on a baggy S-type and you’ll need lots of expertise – plus a well-equipped workshop – to revive it. Get it revived professionally and it’ll cost you far more (potentially £30,000+) than to just buy a decent example at the outset.
If there’s much visible corrosion, there’ll be lots more hidden, in the structure – an S-type that looks superficially good can be rotten underneath, so get the car on a ramp. Start with the two longitudinal chassis legs, which meet a crossmember beneath the nose. Although the structure is unitary, this integral chassis adds essential strength. Also focus on the area where the chassis legs join the crossmember and the adjacent crows’ feet, which tie the front wings to the crossmember. These are the supports for the front wings, along with the vertical radiator cowls. Expect rust here, allowing water into the chassis leg.
Corrosion then moves down to the jacking point below the A-post, so look for distortion of the metal and poor-quality plating. This area is often bodged, as it’s complicated. Check the base of each front wing, looking for cracking paint working downwards across the sill from the bottom front corner of the door aperture. This area is key, as proper restoration requires a jig for strengthening, and all rotten metal cut out.
The usual giveaway is uneven door shuts, the lower front corner sticking out while the window surround is in contact with the door jamb. Other rot spots include the rear anti-roll bar mountings, floorpans, wheelarches and the back of the sills along with the spare wheel well’s centre section and the fuel tanks (there are two). That’s not all, though; the outer panels also corrode spectacularly, especially the grille and headlight surrounds plus the area where the sill and front door meet along with the rear door/wheel spat junction. The trailing edge of the bootlid rusts, as do the door bottoms.

ENGINE
Offered in 3.4 or 3.8-litre forms (S-Type) or 4.2-litre (420), the XK engine needs regular maintenance if it isn’t to wear prematurely. Look for a service history, make sure the engine doesn’t sound hollow or rattly and ensure the oil is clean. Budget for a rebuild as soon as the engine shows signs of wear; delay things and the bills will quickly mount, especially if something breaks.
The XK powerplant features a cast-iron block and alloy cylinder head; because of the latter, anti-freeze levels must be maintained or internal corrosion is guaranteed. Even a well-maintained engine could need a fresh radiator every five to ten years; new ones are £500 exchange, with alloy versions available for much the same money. To check for engine wear, take a look at what oil pressure there is; a healthy unit will show 40psi at 2500rpm.
However, senders and gauges tend to under-read, so use a temporary gauge for an accurate picture. Some oil consumption is normal, but lots of smoke on the over-run or when the throttle is blipped means hardened valve stem seals or worn valve guides. Specialists charge £1500+ to fix things, but complications such as corrosion of the water ports could mean a significantly bigger bill. XK engines can be made oil-tight, but a bit of weeping is normal. However, if the car’s underside is coated in oil it’s probably because the rear crankshaft oil seal has failed, signalling it’s time for a complete rebuild. Specialists charge £4500+ or you could do the work yourself for £800+, but it requires a special tool plus knowledge to fit the oil seal.

TRANSMISSION
Until September 1965, manual-gearbox S-types had a four-speed Moss transmission without synchromesh on first. It’s a strong unit, but on hard-driven, abused or high-mileage cars you should expect some wear.
Parts for this gearbox are hard to find, so rebuilds are costly. Later S-types and all 420s came with an all-synchro box that’s also strong, but much harder to find on a used basis, so whatever is fitted, make sure it doesn’t jump out of gear and that you can select ratios easily.
Overdrive was optional for all S-type and 420 derivatives, but most cars came with it. A Laycock system, expect it to engage smoothly and swiftly; any issues are likely to be down to clogged filters or dodgy electrical connections. Rebuilt overdrives are available for around £350 on an exchange basis. A new clutch means removing the engine, and a three-piece kit is £200 or so. Most S-types and 420s have a Borg Warner automatic. A DG unit was fitted until June 1965; after that there was a Type 35 unit. Both are durable, but the latter is smoother. Rebuilds are rarely needed. Graham Whitehouse charges £2675 to overhaul the lot (including the torque converter) and another £860 to remove and refit everything. You can expect to pay anything from £250 for a usable second-hand auto box; the DG and Type 35 units are interchangeable.
Whitehouse also offers a conversion to a modern four-speed auto, but it’s complicated as it requires a new propshaft, drive plate, starter motor and more. For the parts alone it costs £6200; get the Whitehouse team to do all the work and you’ll have to cough up another £2800 if the car starts out as an auto. Convert from a manual and labour becomes £5000.

STEERING & SUSPENSION
Neither the S-type nor the 420 got power steering as standard, although it was a popular option – and something that’s necessary with the weight of that big straight-six in the nose. Earlier power steering featured a Burman recirculating ball system, which is low-geared, but reliable. Later, there was a higher ratio Adwest power steering system, giving a much better feel. One of the key characteristics that separated the S-type from the Mk2 was the fitment of independent suspension all round; it’s the same set-up as fitted to the Mk X and E-type models.
As such, it’s reliable but you still need to check for the usual potential issues such as tired dampers, worn bushes and sagging springs; everything is available and upgrades are easy.

WHEELS & BRAKES
Wire wheels are a popular fitment; if fitted, make sure the splines aren’t worn by getting somebody to sit on the car with their foot on the brake. Try to rock the car top and bottom; any detectable movement indicates worn splines. Also look for rusty or broken spokes; replacement 72-spoke wheels are £250 apiece (chrome) or £150 for painted items.
As with the Mk2, the S-type and 420 came with disc brakes all round, but even in good condition the system is only just up to the job, while the 420 benefited from having different front uprights and larger three-pot calipers. The problem is usually down to corroded pistons and cylinders. Everything is available and upgrades are straightforward, but parts costs are high although the system is relatively uncomplicated.

TRIM & ELECTRICS
A 1960s Jag interior is something to behold if in good nick. However, Jaguar didn’t use the best quality materials, so tired trim is common. You can buy some superb quality trim kits to make it all as good as new, but by the time you’ve replaced the carpets, seat covers, trim panels and headlining you could easily spend £4000 for the parts alone; get it all done by a specialist and that could add another £2000-£3000 to the bill.

OUR VERDICT
You don’t have to be on a budget to fancy an S-type or 420 over a Mk2, as these overlooked models are superior in ious ways. However, if buying a Mk2 is fraught with danger, trying to find a decent S-type or 420 is even more so, as decent examples are rare. Good survivors of either type aren’t common, which is why you absolutely must buy the best you can afford and the best you can find.