ROLLS-ROYCE PHANTOM III REVIEW

Having manufactured V12 aero engines, the choice of a V12 for the Phantom III from 1936 was entirely logical, Cadillac and Hispano Suiza joining this trend. Such was the smoothness, around 1960 Bill Boddy, Motor Sport's editor, rated the 7.3 litre Phantom III as the 'most impressive' of the thirty or so cars he drove in the previous year. The Phantom III with 142'' chassis, good for 85mph, represents an important milestone in Rolls-Royce history, being the first model to be equipped with independent front suspension. Of the 727 chassis made, around 300 still exist today.

 

ROLLS-ROYCE PHANTOM V REVIEW

Rolls-Royce's new limousine model, the long-wheelbase Rolls-Royce Phantom V effectively replaced both the royalty / heads of state-only Phantom IV and the Silver Wraith. The latter's relatively short wheelbase had made it all but impossible for coachbuilders to provide adequate boot space in a comfortable seven-seater, a shortcoming addressed by the new Phantom V. Built on a much modified and strengthened Silver Cloud chassis, enjoying the same 12' 1'' wheelbase as the Phantom IV, the new Phantom measured 19' 10'', some 11'' longer than the Phantom IV, enabling coachbuilders to combine the desirable qualities of spacious interior accommodation with generous boot space and graceful lines. A lower final drive ratio ensured that the new car would match its stablemates for acceleration, with over 100mph still possible.Rolls-Royce's in-house coachbuilder Mulliner Park Ward produced a preferred seven-passenger limousine coachwork for the Phantom V, the usual upholstery to front being in leather, also listed as an option to rear, along with West of England Cloth. A cocktail cabinet was standard while all-round electric windows and separate air conditioning to front and rear were among preferred options.

ROLLS-ROYCE PHANTOM VI REVIEW

Rolls-Royce Phantom VI Seven Passenger Limousine Coachwork by Mulliner, Park Ward Introduced at the 1968 Motor Show and listed as the world's most expensive car, the mighty Phantom VI was an exclusive cost-no-object car for a limited and discriminating clientele, indeed a Phantom VI was the motor industry's Silver Jubilee gift to Her Majesty the Queen in 1977. A logical development of the Phantom V which it supplanted, the Phantom VI retained the superlative MP-W bodywork, while replacing the old 6,230cc Silver Cloud III engine of its predecessor with the more powerful 6,750cc Silver Shadow V8. This unit was upgraded with full factory-fitted air-conditioning, with separate units in the scuttle and boot, serving front and rear compartments respectively, the air inlet grille on the scuttle being the principle external difference between the two Phantoms, along with new rear light clusters. Rolls-Royce Phantom VI bodies were coachbuilt in the Park Ward tradition with hand beaten aluminium panels using wooden panel bucks and rollers, pinned and clinched to a galvanised steel and alloy frame.

ROLLS-ROYCE SILVER GHOST REVIEW

Produced from 1907 to 1925, the Rolls-Royce Silver Ghost is one of the most instantly recognisable cars ever manufactured. Powered by a 7428cc, six cylinder, 40/50hp engine it had a four speed gearbox with overdrive. An unconventional flexible radiator mounting, a Royce designed carburettor and attractive construction and machining are prominent in this car. The car got its name because of the silver paint and silver-plated bright work which along with the mechanicals make it so iconic. 

Autocar noted that the car gave the impression ‘of being wafted through the landscape.’ 

This car was not just known for being quiet though, it was also very reliable. Royal Automobile Club founder Claude Johnson successfully travelled 2,000 miles between London and Glasgow without incident. After the drive, the RAC assessed the car to measure the wear. The cost of the replacement parts added up to less than £3. The Times described it as ‘the best car in the world’. 

Lawrence of Arabia was a famous fan of the Silver Ghost declaring that ‘a Rolls in the desert is above rubies.’

He used a fleet of armoured Rolls-Royce Silver Ghosts in operations against Turkish forces and in one day managed to destroy two enemy command posts, blowing up a bridge and ripping up many miles of railway line. The Silver Ghost also featured in many more conflicts including both World Wars. 

It was used in WW1 and WW2 to great success thanks to Winston Churchill. He was a big admirer of these ‘land ships’ and insisted that Silver Ghosts were modified to incorporate armour and made ready for war. 

ROLLS-ROYCE SILVER CLOUD REVIEW

For sheer, imposing elegance, a Roll-Royce Silver Cloud (or equivalent Bentley) takes some beating. But it also takes some buying too.

For many enthusiasts, the Silver Cloud represents the end of an era – the last of the ‘mainstream’ traditionally-styled Rolls-Royces constructed on a separate chassis. The following Silver Shadow may be the most accessible of the marque – practically a Rolls-Royce for the people – but the Cloud and its almost identical Bentley S counterpart retain an exclusivity and dignity that links the type more with what came before than what succeeded it. This is despite it adopting the V8 engine that would go on to power future generations of Rolls-Royces through to 1998 and is still used by Bentleys today.

In looks, the Silver Cloud’s flowing lines and palatial presence are distinctively old school. Launched in 1955, it was somewhat old-fashioned even for the mid-1950s, when many manufacturers were turning to monocoque construction. But Rolls-Royce went with what it knew best and retained a separate chassis. This meant that the standard pressed steel body could be used or a number of coachbuilt creations bolted on instead.

The first cars had 4.9-litre six-cylinder engines, but in 1959, Rolls-Royce’s all-aluminium 6.25-litre V8 unit was dropped in, creating the smoothly magnificent Cloud II. The real revelation of the new engine was not its power but how quiet it was – V8s are generally quite raucous by nature, but when enveloped in the Cloud’s expansive body, occupants could still hear the clock ticking at 60mph, a characteristic the company enthusiastically trumped about what it still called ‘The best car in the world’.

A hint of radical changes just around the corner was revealed with the Cloud III of 1962, with its double headlamp units. These caused quite some controversy at a time when the 1960s had yet to completely start swinging, yet were undoubtedly more effective than the single lamps they replaced. They also managed to subtly update the looks without the need for major body surgery. 

And that’s how the Cloud and S stayed up until the end of production in 1965, when the Shadow came along and completely changed the game. In doing so, it guaranteed the Cloud a selectness that has only grown stronger over five decades.  


VITAL STATISTICS

ENGINE                                 6230cc/V8/OHV
POWER                                  Adequate
TORQUE                                Adequate
MAXIMUM SPEED                   116mph
0-60MPH                               11.5sec
FUEL CONSUMPTION              12mpg
TRANSMISSION                     4-spd auto
HEIGHT                                 1631mm (63.5in)
WIDTH                                  1880mm (74in)
LENGTH                                 5339mm (210.2in)
WHEELBASE                           3124mm (123in)
WEIGHT                                 2078.4kg (4578lb)


WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODY SPOTTING

First things first – are you looking at what you think you’re looking at? Rolls-Royce bonnets have a flat front edge, Bentleys a curved one. If the radiator grille and the bonnet don’t match up, expect identity theft. Doors, bonnets and bootlids are aluminium, so don’t corrode except for any areas where steel meets the metal. Elsewhere, rust can attack the complicated four-section sills, especially towards the rear, front wing edges adjacent to the doors, wing stay, wheelarch lips (all four), around the headlamps and front sidelights, and the body mounts. The lower rear wings are also vulnerable. Leaking battery acid can attack around the offside bumper mounting point and chomp into the chassis.

The chrome radiator vents will suffer if they get chipped by stones, and the hubcaps are vulnerable to rust…which is a shame, as they cost over £250 each to replace.

 

POWER HOUSE

Two engines types were fitted – a six-cylinder unit and a V8. The V8 is packed into the engine bay, meaning it’s trickier to work on – for example, changing the spark plugs involves removing a wheel, then a panel to get at them. That takes three hours – something to consider before buying.

If an engine (whether six or eight) has been conscientiously serviced – every 6000 miles – it’s capable of upwards of 200,000 miles. Check the oil pressure – 25lb (or in the white band on the gauge) when warm is a healthy sign. Hydraulic tappets on the V8 engines can be noisy when cold, but so should quieten down when warm.

Expect some blue smoke from the exhaust, but it shouldn’t be excessive. You should also expect some black stuff to be weeping from the rocker cover gaskets, the front and rear crankshaft seals and cylinder liner seals, but again, not too much. Basically, these engines aren’t that oil-tight but you shouldn’t have to top up the oil more than a pint every 500 miles.

Look for signs of head gasket issues such as water in the oil and vice versa and, on your test drive, make sure the big engine doesn’t run too hot.    

 

TRANSMISSION VAMP
The General Motors-sourced four-speed automatic transmissions last well, but the smoothness of the changes can suffer with age, leading to notchiness. Make sure that that kickdown works properly too and listen for any noisiness from the differential, which will start to protest with age. When starting the car from cold, make sure there’s no slippage, otherwise reconditioning may be called for, which will run into the thousands.   

 

KEEP US IN SUSPENSE
Drum brakes are fitted all around, which work well enough at speed but not at low velocities, due to the way the gearbox-driven servo operates. You can see the condition of the brake fluid in the glass reservoirs in the engine bay – if black, it means the car hasn’t been looked after religiously. If the brakes still feel ineffective at speed, then it could be because there are leaks from the seals. From 1957 onwards, cars got twin brake master cylinders, which means a bit more peace of mind. A strange groaning noise just before the car stops suggests wrong brake linings have been fitted.   

Power steering is desirable, as these are heavy machines on radial tyres. However, do look for leaks, especially from the hydraulic ram under the front bumper.  

If an example has tired suspension, it will sag, usually towards the front. This means that new springs will be required. The suspension needs regular lubrication, and if skipped, will start to wear quickly. Areas that will soon suffer are the front wishbone kingpins at the front and suspension pivot (fulcrum) components. Also feel for sloppy handling when on the move.   

 

THE INSIDE STORY

Electrics are usually pretty sound, but run through everything inside, especially the electric windows, as the motors are difficult to source. Often dodgy contacts are the main issues. Also try out the complicated heating and ventilation system, as putting it right is quite a pain if the matrix is blocked.

Obviously, these cars offer the highest levels of luxury inside, so don’t underestimate how much a tired wood and leather will cost to rectify – at least £10,000 for a professional job. Which is why you come across so many that are quite worn.  


OUR VERDICT

Don’t go into Silver Cloud ownership expecting an easy ride – at least not financially. These are expensive cars to buy and maintain, and if you shirk on the tasks, you’ll soon find your Cloud evaporating around you. However, if you’re prepared to spend the money the cars demand, then few vehicles give you such an enormous sense of prosperous well-being to drive. And they won’t be in the Shadow of anything…

ROLLS-ROYCE SILVER SHADOW REVIEW


The Silver Shadow is the epitome of luxury motoring, but buy carefully

The Rolls-Royce name always stood for unbeatable comfort and luxury, and the Silver Shadow delivers these attributes in spades. Settle into the gentleman’s club interior and there is a huge feel-good factor, and as you gaze down the bonnet to the iconic ‘Spirit of Ecstasy’ it’s hard not to feel a sense of real pride. Driving a Rolls has that effect somehow. 

On the road, the ride is a touch wallowy – Shadow II models handled more adeptly – but it doesn’t matter as you soon settle down to a sedate pace, gently guiding the delicately-rimmed wheel with your fingertips. There is enough poke if you want it though, a prod of the throttle causing the nose to rise majestically as the old girl gathers up her skirts, but frankly a scary thirst for fuel soon puts paid to those antics. Far better instead to relax, and enjoy the wonderful surroundings.


VITAL STATISTICS

Rolls-Royce Silver Shadow II

 

Engine                                    6750cc/V8/OHV

 

Power (bhp@rpm)                  200bhp

 

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 250lb ft

 

Top speed                                115mph

 

0-60mph                                  10.9sec

 

Consumption                            14mpg 


WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Terrifying restoration and repair costs makes sound bodywork a priority with the Silver Shadow. Well documented rot spots include the front wings, the rear wheel arches, the inner rear wings below the bumper, and the front/rear valances. You should also check for signs of reaction where the aluminium panels meet the steel monocoque, and look out for damp carpets – the floorpan is notoriously rust-prone. When you realise that complete sill replacement can attract a £3500 bill (for each side!), the need to be careful becomes clear. Many cars came with an ‘Everflex’ vinyl roof so ensure this isn’t peeling or bubbling – a possible sign of corrosion underneath.

 

ENGINE

Models up to 1970 used a 6.2-litre V8, but it’s the later 6.75-litre unit that’s most familiar. It’s an engine that can cover big miles with proper care, but there are some issues to be aware of. A lack of regular oil changes will sludge-up the hydraulic tappets and can contribute to cam-follower wear, and you need to watch for any signs of oil leaks or head gasket failure. Cracked exhaust manifolds are costly to put right, but perhaps most important is the need for correct levels of anti-freeze to be maintained. Combining with a build-up of sediment, lack of maintenance here can lead to serious problems with the cylinder liners. Evidence of ‘piston knock’ should ring alarm bells.

 

RUNNING GEAR

Early cars used a four-speed automatic gearbox, but the later GM three-speed unit is better and more reliable. The electric selector mechanism can play up with age though. You should also check for oil leaks and whining from the differential, and for knocks from worn universal joints. Check the ground for oil after your test drive.

The complex suspension system needs the same fastidious maintenance as the rest of the car. Leaks from corroded pipework and perished seals will require a costly overhaul, and the fluid needs regular changes too. Front ball joints can wear and need specialist knowledge to check properly, and it’s worth checking for signs of worn subframe bushes or corrosion around suspension mounting points. Signs of uneven tyre wear will need further investigation.

 

BRAKES

The braking system must be in tip-top condition if a £5000 overhaul bill is to be avoided. Seized brake calipers and corroded metal brake pipes over the rear subframe are known problems, while the flexible hoses need renewing periodically. There are mroe than 10 of them so ask when it was last done. Brake fluid leaks are a worry too, though a small weep from the distribution valves beneath the driver’s seat area is to be expected. Brake work can require the use of expensive specialist tools, so be wary of cars that haven’t received regular attention here. Make sure the brake warning lights on the dashboard illuminate correctly. Be aware, left hand wheels used left-hand threaded wheel nuts!

 


INTERIOR

The cabin uses only the best materials, so it’s vital to check for signs of wear or damage. Restoring or replacing the leather or the matched wood veneers is a job for the experts, and is expensive. Mustiness signals water ingress, and don’t be satisfied until you’ve checked that all the electrical items are present and correct – getting failed electric windows or seats working again will cost plenty. Inoperative air-conditioning is another wallet-buster so make sure it blows cold with no signs of water in the cabin from a leaking heater matrix. 


OUR VERDICT

There is huge pleasure to be had from owning a Rolls-Royce, and the Silver Shadow is no exception – the quality and luxury on offer are very beguiling. But never, ever be tempted to buy a cheap car that’s been run on a shoestring as bankruptcy is almost sure to follow. A sound, cherished car is definitely the way to go. We advise getting a specialist inspection.

BMW 628CSI REVIEW

In a nutshell? The BMW 628CSI belongs in your classic car garage... 

 

Karmann-styled like the preceding BMW 3.0CS/CSi/CSL, the new 600-series coupes debuted in 1976, featuring all-independent suspension, four-wheel disc brakes and power steering as standard. Automatic, and in 2.8-litre 184 bhp form, 60mph came up in just 8.5 seconds with 130mph top speed.

 

ROLLS-ROYCE SILVER SPIRIT REVIEW

Best suited to caring car owners

The Silver Spirit was available from 1980 to 1998, always with a 6.75-litre Rolls-Royce V8engine. There were multiple changes of spec in those 18 years, especially to engine power and suspension, but a late Spirit is recognisably the same car as an early one. As with all Rolls-Royce cars, these models offer a very special motoring experience as long as they have been properly maintained.

That experience is about wafting and gliding. It is not about powering through corners, although a Spirit offers surprisingly good dynamics when hustled along. Most important is to understand the car’s character before buying one, and to appreciate it as a work of automotive craftsmanship rather than just a lot of metal for your money. 


VITAL STATISTICS

ROLLS-ROYCE SILVER SPIRIT, 1988

 

Engine                                    6750cc/V8-cyl/OHV

 

Power (bhp@rpm)                  238bhp@4000rpm

 

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 Not quoted

 

Top speed                                115mph

 

0-60mph                                  10.3 sec

 

Economy                                   14mpg

 

Gearbox                                    3-speed automatic


WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Despite top build quality, Silver Spirits do corrode. On the outside, any problems with the wheelarches (both front and rear) or the lower trailing edges of the front wings should be apparent. Repair panels are available, but it takes a skilled specialist to insert them seamlessly and match the paint. Look carefully at the sills and round the front bulkhead, too. Two-tones were available but not common.

Inside the car, lift up the front carpets and check the floorpans. Blocked aircon drain tubes and leaking windscreens seals are quite common, and water can sit under the carpets. Eventually, the floorpans rot. You can often smell impending trouble when you get down to carpet level!

Check the front spoiler for kerbing damage. Replacements for later cars are expensive. Underneath, check that the underseal is intact, and double-check places where it is not. Examine the mounting areas for the rear springs and rear suspension arms – and don’t be surprised to find corrosion under the boot floor.

ENGINE

The Rolls-Royce V8 was new in 1959 and therefore more than 20 years old when it reached the Spirit. It is an under-stressed engine, which means that major components go on almost indefinitely, but it is not bullet-proof.

Check the service history. Who has done the work, and how regularly? Regular maintenance is essential, and belts, hoses and fluids must all be changed at intervals to ensure tip-top running. A rough-sounding engine in a Spirit is a definite no-no: knocks suggest piston wear from corroded liners. Leaks can be bad news, although oil leaks from the sump area may be innocuous. Blowing exhaust manifolds will prove expensive. Overheating might not be serious, but finding out the cause could be costly. 

DIY maintenance is only for the skilled, whether it’s a carburettor engine (to mid-1986) or an injected one (Bosch K-Jetronic from 1987 MY).

RUNNING GEAR

Both the three-speed (to 1990) and later four-speed automatics are strong and generally trouble-free gearboxes. Changes should be barely perceptible. Listen for a whining back axle, which suggests a lack of maintenance.

The hydraulic self-levelling suspension is a complex. Don’t buy a car with suspension problems, because the cost of sorting it out will make your eyes water. Don’t try to work on it yourself; the high fluid pressures involved can cause injuries. Even the metal suspension parts need proper maintenance, and don’t imagine that changing a coil spring is a DIY job. To find out what you can and can’t do safely, join the RREC – the club runs maintenance weekends to show owners how to do the DIY-possible jobs on their cars.

Expect brake troubles on a car which has not been used for some time. These will range from rusty discs to dodgy hydraulics.

 

INTERIOR

Don’t lose your heart to a gorgeous-smelling, well-preserved cabin when the rest of the car is below par. Check for matching over-rugs as well as carpets, and be wary of any damp smells. 

Check that all the instruments and warning lights work. On 1990 and later cars with Active Ride, the suspension warning light may not go out; you can often clear the ‘fault’ and extinguish the light, but there can be more worrying underlying causes. Does the aircon work properly – without leaks? What about the electric windows, especially on a car that has been standing?

Replacing damaged leather to OE standards will be very expensive indeed. Then, how did it get torn? Was a previous owner unlucky or simply careless? As for damaged wood trim, don’t even go there. Veneers were matched to individual cars.


OUR VERDICT

You’ll buy one of these old-style luxury saloons because there is no experience like driving an elderly Rolls-Royce. You’ll appreciate the utter serenity that comes with it, although it isn’t entirely without stress, unfortunately, as your wallet will notice. Fuel bills are high, and repairs cost what these cars’ original owners could comfortably afford. Roadholding and handling are adequate, but spirited driving will make you understand why the much quicker Bentley Turbo R needed a major suspension and brake revamp.

BMW M5 E34 REVIEW

If you’re a fan of discreet performance, few cars are up to the job as well as this beautifully built muscle car – a true gamechanger...

 

Today, the BMW M5 is an all-time great and still very much on the up – but in 2004, it was still possible to pick up a usable example for £2000. How far it had come from when it was new, when CAR magazine pitched a BMW E34 M5 against a Ferarri Testarossa in 1990. Then, it was moved to write: ‘The BMW is more practical, more comfortable, handles better, and is faster on the majority of public roads.’ When Georg Kacher drove a BMW E34 M5 3.8 for the same publication in 1992, he wrote: ‘The M5 is as much fun to drive as a proper sports car, and makes distances shrink like a time-lapse machine.’

The E34 M5 was the last of the six-cylinder M5s, and to connoisseurs, it’s arguably the best of these amazing super-saloons. It was the E34’s predecessor, the E28, which had created the template for the modern-day performance carry-all. Both cars were powered by engines based on the same straight-six seen in the M1; in the E34 it displaced 3535cc and there was 315bhp and 266lb ft of torque on tap, enabling the M5 to get to 0-60mph in 6.3 seconds.

The car seemed pretty much perfect, but BMW made things even better with the 3.8-litre M5 in 1992. This featured a 3795cc engine with an upgraded engine management system, plus revised Boge suspension (dubbed Adaptive M Technic) From September 1992 there was improved safety and security, then the final flourish came in May 1994 with a six-speed gearbox. 

 

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine   3795cc/6-cyl/DOHC

Power    340bhp@6900rpm

Torque   295lb ft@4750rpm

Maximum speed    155mph (limited)

0-60mph  5.4sec

Fuel Consumption   22-30mpg

Transmission  Five/six-speed manual

Height   4ft 7in (1.39m)

Width     5ft 9in (1.75m)

Length   15ft 6in (4.72m)

Wheelbase   9ft 1in (2.76m)

Weight3682lb (1679kg)

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Bodywork

Look for rust at the base of the windscreen, in the rear wheelarches and along the edges of the bootlid. The plastic sill skirt covers can hide rusty inner and outer sill panels, jacking points plus the bottom of the front wings and A-posts. Also check the petrol flap aperture. Poorly repaired crash damage is common too; it’s easy to get an M5 out of shape on slippery roads.

Engine

 

That straight-six will clock up 200,000 miles if looked after. If the original coolant hoses are still fitted, it’s worth renewing them as a matter of course. Other cooling issues that can arise include leaky water pumps plus failed thermostats and viscous couplings. The 3.8-litre engine can suffer pistonor conrod failure on a poorly maintained car. 

Transmission

It’s pretty much unknown for a rear axle to fail, but check for leaks, with all cars getting a limited-slip diff as standard. The clutch should feel really light. If it doesn’t, get it changed. Both five- and six-speed gearboxes are strong, but listen for clattery bearings when the car is idling, with your foot off the clutch pedal. If a rebuild is needed it’ll set you back around £1200.Replacing oils seals costs around £200.

Exhaust

This isn’t made of stainless steel but it is reasonably long-lived. Because it’s double-skinned it can look tired on the outside but still be in good condition; the key is to listen for noisy baffles, which indicate a new set of pipes will be needed soon. Replacements are costly at £1200 – also make sure that the catalytic converter isn’t damaged by putting the car through an MoT.

Dampers

Listen for pattering over bumps, which indicates worn dampers; front replacements cost around £180 per corner for 3.6-litre cars, with the self-levelling rears pitched at about £600 per side. The 3.8 has Electronic Damping Control (EDC) for which some parts are now unavailable; they were last listed at £1000 per corner, so check for leaks and corroded pipes. Swapping the SLS or EDC suspension for conventional Bilstein dampers is common, which in improves the handling, especially on 3.6-litre cars.

Bushes and joints

Wear on the inner edges of the front tyres indicates worn ball joints. If the centre section of the rear tyres has worn, the rear subframe bushes probably need to be replaced; they typically last around 100,000 miles. Replacement wishbones cost £250 per side while rear suspension bushes are £78 per side (both are plus fitting). Vague steering might be worn track rod ends wear too (a pair of new ones costs around £250) or a tired steering box. The latter can be adjusted but the box is unique to the M5 so one from a lesser 5-series will have a different ratio.

Interior

Some M5s came with cloth interior trim while others got leather. Extended leather was a less common but much more expensive option which meant pretty much everything was covered with nappa hide except for the headlining. Whatever is fitted it should last well; there was a choice of light or dark grey, with the former getting grubby rather easily. 

Electrics

All M5s got air-con so check it works as it should because compressors and condensers fail and if everything needs doing the bill can easily add up to £1000. Most front seats have electric adjustment; check everything works properly. If there are electrical faults, first check the wiring loom where it passes through the boot hinge. Chafing here can lead to exposed wires then an array of weird electrical issues.

OUR VERDICT

The M5 is still a performance car bargain. No other car offers this level of grunt, usability, build quality and dynamic prowess for the money. Shame they don’t cost the same now as they did back in 2004!

BMW M3 (E30) REVIEW

Highly sought after, the M3 is a motorsport legend but you need to buy the best.

 

With modern hot hatchbacks producing in excess of 300bhp, two thirds of that isn’t really enough is it? 

Well, that’s where you’d be wrong as the original M3 was one of the finest sports saloons of its day, and feels just as wonderful now.  While BMW have become synonymous with silky straight-six engines, the 2.3-litre, 4-cylinder unit beneath the M3’s bonnet was a cracker producing 200bhp in original, non-catalysed form.  That power arrived at a fizzing 6750rpm, and getting there was to experience a mechanical symphony that sets the hairs on the back of your neck standing.  And thanks to a light weight by today’s standards it still feels quick with the 0-60mph benchmark dispatched in less than seven seconds. 

Driving through a motorsport-inspired dog-leg gearbox, it was also very easy to live with and a well-sorted example feels as happy pottering to the supermarket as it does lapping Silverstone.  But despite the every-day docility, using it that way would be to miss out on one of this car’s finest attributes.  Unencumbered by electronic safety nets, the purity of the driving experience is nothing short of breathtaking.  It steers with amazing precision, the nose tucking into the apex of a corner with just a flick of the meatily-weighted steering and ensconced in the supportive Recaro seat there’s a feeling of superb balance and adjustability.  Powerful E30 variants could be tricky to say the least, especially in poor weather, but the M3 is a world away from the tail-happy six-cylinder cars.  Thank the heavily-revised but still supple suspension for that, but it’s a revelation all the same.  Such delicacy is certainly a far cry from today’s stiffly-suspended performance cars that are tuned for setting records around the Nurburgring. 

The M3 is no less fine inside, where it boasts BMW’s legendary clarity and ergonomics.  There were a few sporting touches, but otherwise it was standard E30 and none the worse for that.  With a spot-on driving position and driver-focused dashboard layout it all feels as special now as it did almost thirty years ago.  As a sports saloon, it’s simply epic.        

 

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine           2302cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power            195bhp@6750rpm

Torque          169lb ft@4750rpm

Top speed     143mph

0-60mph       6.7secs

Economy       28mpg

Gearbox         5-speed manual

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Put it to the panel

Only the bonnet, roof, and doors were shared with the regular E30 so it’s important to ensure that M3-specific panels are undamaged.  The lighter, stiffer shell can be prone to stress cracks if it’s been pounded over circuit kerbs or been upgraded with stiffer suspension so get it on a ramp to check.  And make sure you examine the suspension turrets, front chassis legs, and boot floor for evidence of cracks or accident damage.

 

Spot that rot

Rust resistance isn’t an E30 strong point and hidden corrosion is becoming an issue on the M3.  It can affect the jacking points and inner wings, and you must get a good look behind the sill covers as they can hide serious rot.  Rust can also attack the wings and rear wheel arches, the battery box, the areas surrounding the bonded screens, and in the boot around the lights.  And pay special attention to the scuttle; repairing it isn’t especially difficult or costly, but while the panel itself is cheap it contains the chassis number so has to be specially ordered from BMW and it can take time.  Many examples had a sunroof fitted and serious corrosion here will be expensive to remedy if the sunroof cassette needs to be removed: examine the metalwork and runners thoroughly.

 

Watch for leaks

The cooling system is an Achilles’ Heel, so check the radiator condition and operation of the fan thermostat.  Evidence of previous overheating should be treated with caution as it could have harmed the head gasket.  Oil leaks from around the sump aren’t uncommon, while a loud rattle on start-up indicates a worn timing chain or tensioner.  Opinions differ here, with some specialists recommending the renewal of all parts at around 100,000 miles as a precaution, but it shouldn’t be necessary on a well-maintained example.  A complete engine re-build costs five figures so excessive exhaust smoke and low oil pressure is bad news, and watch for rough running caused by induction air leaks, or faulty Bosch Motronic engine management. 

 

Show me the light

Skipped servicing and clocking are further concerns, so check the service lights on the dashboard are working and pay very close attention to the history.  Transmission-wise, the dog-leg Getrag gearbox is a weak point, so check for whining bearings or noisy synchromesh.  You’ll need to allow around £2000 for a specialist re-build.  Hard use can lead to a noisy limited-slip differential, and while failure is rare, a replacement is expensive.  Oil leaks from the ‘box and diff aren’t uncommon either.

 

Suspension surveillance

The standard suspension rarely gives major problems, so just watch for broken springs, tired dampers, and rattling anti-roll bar links.  As upgraded cars are returned to original specification, sourcing some parts such as springs can be tricky so check availability before undertaking work.  It’s also worth checking the condition of the rear subframe bushes, and the subframes themselves as cracks can appear in hard-used examples.  The brakes are more than up to the task, though, so just ensure that the ABS is operating correctly as it’s a pricey fix.  And check the condition of the BBS wheels as finding new ones isn’t easy.

 

The inside story

The interior is effectively standard E30, so watch for shabbiness and signs of water ingress via the bulkhead grommets and sunroof drains.  Seat frames can crack, while threadbare seat bolsters will need the services of a professional trimmer.  Some trim parts are getting hard to source, too, so ensure the dashboard, door cards, and switchgear are undamaged.  Failure of the instrument’s printed circuit board (PCB) is a common E30 issue, and costs around £700 to put right; ensure that dials and warning lights are all working.  Indeed, check all electrical items as remedying problems can be frustrating and costly.

 

Drop top checks

If you’re considering one of the rare convertibles check the operation of the electric hood and ensure that damp hasn’t been getting in.  And all M3s were left-hand drive, and while conversions were carried out a specialist check is highly recommended.

 

OUR VERDICT

Owning and driving an M3 is a wonderful experience, but buying one is not without pitfalls.  Prices weren’t always so strong, so abused and badly modified examples are out there and need avoiding like the proverbial plague.  Get it right, though, and the peerless handling of this exquisite sports saloon will entertain like nothing else.  It’s special indeed.

ROLLS-ROYCE SILVER SPIRIT

Becoming a Rolls-Royce Silver Spirit owner has never been so affordable.

WHY YOU WANT ONE

If the cachet of Rolls-Royce ownership and all the style and elegance it represents has always appealed, but you’ve never quite been able to justify the bank loan to afford one, then the Silver Spirit is the answer. Older Silver Shadow prices are now beginning to firm up, which means that the less desirable 1980s and 1990s Silver Spirits are currently more affordable than ever.
The boxy bodywork is pure 1980s and the styling is much more contemporary than any Roller that came before it. That will no doubt be a turnoff for some, but while the blunt looks and vast proportions now show their age, there’s no denying that the Silver Spirit has a certain period charm. Factor in the powerful V8 engine and the sublime ride quality, courtesy of self-levelling suspension, and the appeal starts to broaden. Being a Roller, it’s also decked out with more high quality leather and wood than you can possibly imagine.
So if you’re after all-out luxury or are planning on setting up a wedding car business on a budget then few cars can top it at this price.

AT THE WHEEL

The appeal of a dirty great 6.75-litre V8 is hard to ignore. Granted, a Rolls-Royce isn’t a car which one should drive furiously, but the acceleration is delivered in a conservative and smooth manner. It’s a behemoth of a lump and drinks like a fish, but all the time emits a soft, easy-on-the-ear V8 burble.
The ride, on sorted cars with the Auto Ride electronic suspension systems, is one of the best around. It’s relaxed and wallowy, but both front and rear passengers could never complain about being uncomfortable. Press on and later cars fitted with the aforementioned suspension set-up will hunker down a little and adopt a slightly sportier stance. The light action of the skinny steering wheel complements the car’s ambience well.
Exact characteristics of the Silver Spirit will y depending on the age and exact model you drive. Later models gained more power courtesy of tweaked cylinderheads and a new intake manifold, among other changes. Then there’s the rare and extremely fast Flying Spur with its brutally powerful turbocharged engine.


VITAL STATISTICS

1992 Rolls-Royce Silver Spirit II 
Engine 6750cc/V8/OHV
Power 215bhp@4,200rpm
Torque 325lb ft@1450rpm
Top Speed 127mph
0-60mph 10.0sec
Economy 12-15mpg
Gearbox 4-speed manual


WHAT TO LOOK FOR

1. Steer clear of pre-1984 cars as they can be a lot of trouble. Much of the bodywork was poorly designed and didn’t fit properly. The door and window frames of the first cars to leave the factory had a terrible fit and finish, which let a lot of wind into the cabin. These early cars were recalled for modifications and the door seals were redesigned.

2. Fuel injection was made standard in 1987, so it’s worth buying a car that has it fitted. The carburettor engines are simpler, but the fuel economy benefits that come with fuel-injected engines are worth it.

3. Corrosion can be a serious problem on cars built before 1992. It occurs in obvious places such as the wheelarches and the sills. The bottom four to six inches of the body are the worst areas for rot, as are the rear arches and the panel behind them.

4. Interiors are well-built and generally hard-wearing, but pay particular attention to lighter shades of leather. Magnolia and other pale hides will show wear more than darker equivalents, particularly on the driver’s seat. Cars that have been used for wedding transport may be more worn than usual on the back seats.

5. Carefully inspect the front and rear screen before you open the doors, then have a look at them from inside the car. If you can see any mist then there’s probably damp beneath the carpets that’s been caused by water ingress. It’s also worth getting down on your hands and knees and patting the interior floor for any more signs of damp.

6. V8 engines like the Roller’s can guzzle oil, so check the level, which will also be an indicator of whether the car has been well maintained. For the truest reading, do it after the engine has reached peak operating temperature and then been allowed to cool down. 

7. An advanced Auto Ride electronic suspension system was introduced in 1990. This automatically adjusts the suspension settings to firmer or softer depending on how hard the car is being driven at the time. Be aware that it can go wrong and lead to an irregular, lumpy ride, which should become obvious on a test drive. Repairs are eye-wateringly expensive – dampers alone cost around £800 each. 

8. A recall was issued in December 1995 for ious Rolls-Royce models that were manufactured with incorrect oil in their braking systems. The cars in question were built between June and October 1995, and while the majority will have been corrected, it’s worth thumbing through the service history to find out whether they were. 

9. Later cars are generally much more reliable than early examples, but cars built between 1995 and 1998 are prone to head gasket problems. This is easily spotted by removing the engine oil filler cap and inspecting the bottom of it. If you see a pale, gloopy residue then the head is on its way out. Oil that smells of rotten eggs is another indicator.

10. When it’s working properly, the ride is one of the highlights of the Silver Spirit. However, the rear suspension gas springs can lose their pressure and become hard, which will be noticeable on a test drive, particularly from the back. If you can, go for a ride in the back of the car as part of your inspection/test drive, as any faults with the suspension system should become obvious. 


VERDICT

With the Silver Spirit, there’s no question that later cars are the better bet, so it’s a case of finding as recent a model as possible that suits your budget. Cheap cars may look attractive from the outset – and you can pick up a useable example for as little as a few thousand pounds – but it’s worth remembering that parts and repairs are seriously pricey, so spending more in the first place is advisable.
Apart from the affordability, the beauty of the Silver Spirit is that there’s probably a Rolls-Royce specialist somewhere near you and it’s young enough for parts to be easy to obtain. Big space, big comfort and a very big engine mean you’ll be the most cosseted commuter around if you use yours every day. But be quick prices of good, last-of-the-line cars are now on the increase. Becoming a Rolls-Royce owner has never been so affordable.

BMW 6-SERIES (E24) REVIEW

This big coupé has style, but what’s it like under the skin?

 

 

The shark-nosed 6-Series looks good from the outside, but it’s pretty impressive inside too. The cabin is truly luxurious, the dashboard is well-stocked with instruments, and build quality is superb. There’s a sportingly low-slung driving position and ergonomics are first-rate, all the controls falling perfectly to hand. If you’re in the mood to relax, the ‘6’ can play the comfortable and refined grand tourer and it’ll cover miles with ease. But a prod of the organ-type throttle pedal will unleash impressive performance. The M635 is a bona fide supercar, too, though care is needed in the wet as tail-slides are never far away.

VITAL STATISTICS

BMW 6-Series (E24)

Engine                                    3453cc/6-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  286bhp@6500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 251lb ft @4500

Top speed                                156mph

0-60mph                                  6.1sec

Consumption                           18mpg

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Rust is a big enemy of the 6-Series, and signs of corrosion in the usual spots – rear arches, sills, and door bottoms – are likely to be the tip of the iceberg. The same applies to the front wings, which need particular scrutiny around the indicators and the lower rear section ahead of the sill, while inner wing seams can rot around the battery tray. With the wings alone costing £600 each, replacing both is a costly exercise and removal may be the only way of gauging the full extent of any problem.

Leaky rear light seals allow rust to develop in the boot, while water collecting around the rear spoiler and then dripping inside isn’t uncommon. Blocked drain holes can lead to corrosion around the sunroof opening and it pays to check for rot around the fuel tank and filler neck too. Get a good look underneath as corroded jacking points are a known issue – if these and the sills are bad, they can take the floor with them.

 

ENGINE

All models (bar the M635CSi) got a single cam ‘M30’ engine in various capacities. They’ll cover big miles before major attention is required but need looking after. Camshaft and rocker wear is caused by a clogged oil spray bar in the head, starving the cams of oil; ticking from cold is the giveaway. A perfect cooling system is vital, as overheating will quickly warp the alloy head, so check for a blocked radiator and ragged hoses and ensure the viscous-coupled fan kicks-in promptly.  

The M635 engine (dubbed ‘M88’) was was a wet-sump derivative of the straight-six used in the M1 supercar and was a DOHC unit with 24 valves. A rebuild isn’t cheap, so fastidious maintenance is the key, with a history that includes cam chain replacement. BMW fitted a single row chain rather than the duplex arrangement on other models and it’s prone to breakage. It must be changed at 100,000 miles without fail.

 

RUNNING GEAR

Gearboxes were fouror five-speed manual or three- or four-speed auto, depending on age and model. All are generally tough, but make sure you try the later four-speed auto in all of its selectable drive modes. The manual-only M635 got a dog-leg Getrag unit which is hugely expensive to replace, so be wary of obstructive or crunchy gearshifts. 

 

BRAKES

It’s a heavy car, so check the brakes and suspension for wear and tear. Early high-pressure braking system cars used ATF rather than brake fluid, shared with the power steering. Annual fluid changes are recommended while a hard pedal or lack of response points to the accumulator (or ‘brake bomb’ as it was known) failing. Later cars reverted to normal brake fluid. The steering box mount can crack where it attaches to the chassis crossmember, so ask the vendor about any remedial work, and watch for corrosion at the rear subframe mounts. The Michelin ‘TRX’ tyres fitted to most models are an unusual metric size and therefore tricky to find and costly to buy. Aftermarket Alpina replacements are popular. The correct type point to a careful owner. Cracked exhaust manifolds, leaks from fuel injector pipes and rough running caused by engine management issues need watching for.


INTERIOR

Plenty of equipment and high-quality materials featured in the 6-Series, so check condition carefully. The genuine leather trim is expensive and you’ll need to ensure all the electrical toys are functioning properly. Electric seat motors can give up the ghost, while slow electric windows are often caused by hard grease from lack of use. 

 

OUR VERDICT

The 6-Series is a car that delivers looks and quality in spades, and that makes it seriously appealing in our eyes.Rot is a real concern though and it won’t necessarily be cheap to run, so you’ll want to find one that’s been pampered. But with this much style and performance on offer, it’ll be worth the effort.

ROSENGART TWO-SEATER SPORTS TOURER REVIEW

Lucien Rosengart was a top engineer and good publicist, making automotive nuts and screws initially and very successfully manufacturing a patent shell fuse during WWI. Subsequently assisting Citroen through a financial crisis, he was rewarded with a seat on their Board. By 1928 Rosengart decided to make his own car, ex-Citroen engineer, Jules Salomon, advising him to make an Austin 7 sized car. Rosengart chose a manufacturing licence from Austin, this model having its own chassis, providing a 7' 3'' wheelbase, their own half-elliptic six-stud rear axle and body - the engine, gearbox and front axle being of Austin design. Herbert Austin had an eye for business worldwide, and took a seat on the Rosengart Board, manufacture taking place in Neuilly-sur-Seine, Paris.

ROVER 10HP REVIEW

Satisfying a demand for luxurious and well-made cars that were a cut above the rest just pre-war, the new Rover 10HP was brought into line stylewise with the rest of the Rover range, the bodies being produced for Rover by Pressed Steel. Synchromesh was introduced on third and fourth gears on this 1389cc 4-cylinder overhead valve car, with built-in jacks, automatic chassis lubrication and switchable free-wheel hubs.

ROVER 200 COUPE/CABRIOLET REVIEW

Rover introduced the ‘Tomcat’ in October 1992 in 109bhp 1.6, 136bhp 2.0 or 198bhp 2.0 turbo forms. Unsurprisingly, the latter is the most collectible – in reality, the normally aspirated cars aren’t that sought after, as they’re a bit weedy, although they’re cheaper to run. However, the Rover Coupé’s chassis struggles to rein in the power of the turbocharged 2.0-litre, which is why a decent compromise is the 1.8 VVC-engined car that arrived in March 1996. With 143bhp it’s decently quick but it doesn’t shred its tyres every time you try to overtake someone.
All cars were facelifted in November 1993, with the addition of a grille and side impact bars – at the same time all cars gained airbags and seat belt pre-tensioners. These facelifted cars are by far the most common, simply because they represent the biggest part of Coupé production.


VITAL STATISTICS

Engine 1994cc/4-cyl/DOHC
Power 197bhp@6100rpm
Torque 171lb ft@2100rpm
Top Speed 146mph
0-60mph 7.1sec
Gearbox 5-speed manual


WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

Corrosion and crash damage can be a problem – even cherished cars can have rust in the sills, door bottoms, wheelarches and the leading edge of the windscreen, plus the rear wings.
If the bumpers are misaligned, the car has probably been pranged. To check the bodyshell’s integrity, look at the boot floor from underneath, the rear light surrounds from inside the boot and the rearmost pillars. If any of these are out of shape, walk away.
Watch for leaks into the cabin, as all Coupés came with removable roof panels as standard. The seals around their handles aren’t always that effective, but some silicone sealant normally does the trick.
Finally, check the boot isn’t full of water. Spare wheel wells get waterlogged through rear light seals failing, boot vents leaking or water getting past the fixing holes for the rear window trim.

ENGINES

The Coupé featured three different four-cylinder engines; the Honda D-Series in 1.6-litre SOHC form (a DOHC version of this was offered in other European markets), the Rover K-Series in 1.6 or 1.8 VVC guises, or the Rover T-Series in 2.0-litre form, either naturally aspirated or turbocharged.
The D-Series powerplant is tough, but the head gasket can blow, so check for mayonnaise on the underside of the oil filler cap. As long as the oil is changed every 4000 miles, these engines last 150,000 miles or more, although distributor caps can crack, so listen for misfiring.
Offered in 1.6 or 1.8 VVC forms, the K-Series engine’s faults are well known, the key one being a tendency to blow head gaskets. Look for evidence of problems as a wrecked engine can render a Coupé worthless.
The K-Series engine also needs a replacement cambelt every 60,000 miles or five years. This engine’s tappets are hydraulic, so if they’re rattly after the initial start up, it may be the head needs a rebuild at £500+.
The fruitiest engine is the T-Series, in normally aspirated or turbocharged guises. Often thrashed, these engines are tough enough if the oil and filter have been changed every 6000 miles. Listen for top-end rattling, suggesting a head rebuild is due – although it could just be that the exhaust manifold gasket needs replacing. When this is done, you must use a genuine fire ring gasket (ie a metal one, not just a foil-wrapped card item), or it won’t last long.

TRANSMISSION

Start the engine and let it tick over in neutral. Press the clutch; if things get noisy, the clutch release bearing needs replacing. A new one is £30. If things get noisier as you release the clutch pedal, the gearbox bearings are badly worn – a decent used unit costs £50-300. 
On the move, the gear change should be light and precise, although the clutch can be heavy. Any rumbling or whining means a gearbox rebuild is on the cards. If the gears are hard to find, the linkage needs adjusting, but new replacements aren’t available.
Turbo Coupés had a limited-slip diff as standard, but these could be damaged by worn bearings. These have a rather feeble plastic cage, but stronger metal-caged bearings are available. The gearbox identification sticker should start K7BX, K7BSUT or K4BX, but it’s possible to rebuild an LSD with non-LSD parts; don’t assume the car is as it was built.

STEERING, SUSPENSION & BRAKES

All Coupés have power-assisted steering, so check the fluid is up to the mark, as leaks are common. Pumps can also prove short-lived, so listen for whining as you turn between locks; replacements are £250-500.
The main issue with the Coupé’s suspension and braking system is that of wear. Sagging springs, worn trailing arm bushes and tired dampers are common. Brakes are especially prone to wear, so feel for juddering through the brake pedal as you slow down, signifying warped discs.
You should also feel for vibration under acceleration, suggesting that the lower ball joints, wheel bearings or track rod ends are past their best. It might also mean that the wheels need balancing; if that’s the case, make sure none of them have been kerbed heavily, throwing the tracking out.
Most enthusiast-owned Coupés have uprated brakes and suspension; the former because the standard anchors are marginal, the latter for less maintenance. The easiest suspension upgrade entails fitting polyurethane bushes, as the rubber items fitted on the production line tend to perish and split, especially the rear lower arm bushes, which generally only last 30,000-40,000 miles.

INTERIOR AND ELECTRICS

Half or full-leather trim is common, but the cloth otherwise fitted is durable, although the driver’s seat bolsters tend to wear. New parts aren’t available, but you might find some decent used trim – don’t count on it though.
Many Coupés have had their interiors butchered to fit aftermarket stereos and security systems. Clearly there are potential issues with the quality of any work undertaken; if the rear trim panels are loose they’ve been removed and their retaining clips haven’t been renewed. Because they’re not reusable, they have to be replaced each time – but they’re available and very cheap, so it isn’t the end of the world.
The electrical system is usually reasonably reliable, but the door-operated light switches fail along with the number plate light – the latter, usually because the wiring stress-cracks where it goes into the boot lid.


VERDICT

The Coupé makes a great usable classic buy, as long as you can find a good one. These cars are firmly in banger terroritory, which is why many have been snapped up merely as cheap transport. There are plenty of well cared for examples out there too though; buy a low-mileage high-spec Turbo while you can, and you’re guaranteed a sure-fire investment that’s also going to provide plenty of fun every time you take it out of the garage. There’s already a huge club scene too.

BMW 5-SERIES E28 REVIEW

A stylish, practical cruiser that's getting increasingly rare...

 

The BMW E28 5 Series entered production in 1981 and continued for a further six years until December 1987, during which time over 720,000 cars were built. The entry level 518 was the only car in the range to feature a carburettored engine, and only then until 1984, whereas the rest sported both Motronic and Jetronic fuel injected units. The E28 replaced the aging E12, which had been in service since 1972 and had begun to look dated. Unlike its more basic predecessor, the E28 featured all mod cons including power windows, power seats and even a trip computer. As well as the range of standard cars, hot versions were added in the form of M5 and M535i.  

VITAL STATISTICS

E28 520i 1981

Engine                                    1991cc/DOHC/Inline 6

Power (bhp@rpm)                  123bhp@5800rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 125ft lb@4000rpm

Top speed                                115mph

0-60mph                                  9.7sec

Consumption                            23mpg

Gearbox                                    5-speed manual

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

The most important issue affecting the E28 is rust. After spending more than 20 years exposed to the British weather, many cars will now be suffering the effect of tinworm. The low value of many cars means it isn’t cost effective to continue to repair bodywork, so owners tend to adopt a ‘run it til it pops’ mentality. With this in mind, get the cleanest car you find. 

Use a magnet to check for filler behind the front and rear arches and sills. If you don’t have a magnet, use your eye – unless professionally done you should be able to spot bodged touch-ups. Sunroofs are prone to rust as water collects in the recesses, so give this area close scrutiny. Doors will also rust given time, so open them and closely inspect the bottom edge. 

Anywhere there are drainage holes there may be rust, and there’s no substitute for getting close and taking your time – you don’t want to be surprised when you get home. Open the boot and lift the rear carpet; pay particular attention to the rear shock mounts as these have a tendency to fail. Also, remove the spare tyre and check the floor beneath. Check the windscreen window seals for signs of cracking or shrinking, as well as rear light seals; if these leak, water will pour directly into the boot.  

 

ENGINE

 

Engines fitted to the E28 were mostly carried over from the E12, so it should be seen as more of a facelift than complete redesign. The M20 engine was fitted to the 520i and 525i, with the M30 being used for the 528i, 535i and M535i. Both variants are legendary in the motoring world as being almost indestructible, providing they are well cared for. All engines will require valve adjustments every 15,000 miles, but this can be done with little trouble by the home mechanic. Check the engine oil level to make sure it’s not too low. Be wary if the oil is either too dirty or too clean, both are signs that poor maintenance is being disguised. 

Start the engine from cold and allow it to warm up, check that the temperature levels-off nicely and that no blue smoke is emitted from the exhaust pipe. Injectors can be noisy on startup; this is normal. 20w/50 oil should be used, nothing thinner. Timing belts should be replaced every five years or 60,000 miles, so make sure this is done. If the water pump has never been replaced, budget for the work and get it done immediately. 

If you’re looking at an M5 then a different set of rules apply. The M5 uses the M88/3 engine, which is an altogether more complex beast than the M30 with much lower tolerances than the smaller engines. Pay to get the car properly inspected by a BMW independent specialist. Any problems with the M88/3 engine will be astronomical to repair, and most problems will be immediately apparent to a specialist.

 

RUNNING GEAR

As with the rest of the car the running gear is fairly solid, but it will be wearing out by now. It’s important that you take the car for a test drive through a variety of driving conditions so any problems become apparent. CV joints are a weak point but are cheap enough to replace, a good DIY job if you have the know-how. Rear subframe mounts will probably need replacing as well, but this is a garage job. Gearboxes have a reputation for durability, but parts to repair them are getting increasingly scarce.

Early cars use the ZF 3HP22 automatic gearbox, which is bombproof. Manual transmissions are as hard wearing as engines, so should be able to achieve the same astronomical mileages.  


INTERIOR

E28 electrics are more reliable than their contemporaries, but by now will be starting to suffer. If the power windows don’t work the first place to look is the switches. Muck and grime build up and interfere with the contacts, so this can often be sorted with 20 minutes. ECUs can fail if soldering breaks down, which is a garage job. On the other hand, power seats are known to fail and are a DIY job.

 Interiors are of high quality and are hard wearing, but in high mileage cars will be on the way out. Don’t be put off by grubby seats; it’s amazing what a bit of leather cleaner can do. As always, the M5 is a different story. M5 leather interiors are rare and pricey. The seat frames also have a tendency to crack, while with textile seats make sure there is no significant wear to the bolsters. Check that the dashboard isn’t cracked, as a replacement will be hard to find and costly to fit.

 

OUR VERDICT

They’re cheap to buy and almost as cheap to maintain if you’re on a budget. Clean low spec examples are still easy to find, and most have been cosseted by elderly owners. Low mileage mint cars come up with surprising regularity, but most are snapped-up quickly by dealers looking to charge silly sums. It pays to buy the best example you can afford, as it’s easy to sink a small fortune into correcting bodywork. They’re becoming increasingly rare in scrap yards. You can’t go far wrong with any but make sure you pay for a proper inspection if you’re looking at an M5.

And don’t forget that all parts are available through BMW Park Lane Classic as well as through specialists. 

CLASSIC CAR REVIEWS - ROVER MINI COOPER

There are lots of Mini Coopers out there and a mind boggling selection of late Rover Mini models bearing the Cooper name. 

The final 10 years of Mini production had more development cash spent than the previous two decades. Changes in bodyshell allowed Rover and then BMW to keep the car compliant with the latest legislation changes, and offer a little bit more in the way of luxury appointments. Here is a selection of some of the later Rover Mini-Coopers.


RSP Rover Mini Cooper
June-October 1990
UK market ‘RSP’ Coopers were only built between June-October 1990 and used the MkVI bodyshell with revised engine mounting. You can spot them apart from mainstream Coopers because they have no ‘Mini Cooper’ badge on the boot, but a circular ‘Cooper’ decal. The ‘John Cooper’ signature was featured on the bonnet, reversed out of the white stripes. Two-tone paint was standard, but the door mirrors and wheel arches are colour coded to the body. A glass sunroof was a standard fitment and tinted glass was always fitted. Inside the seats have black leather facings with
black ‘lightning’ fabric inserts, and a Cooper logo sewn into the seat uprights. Burgundy red carpets are fitted, along with the triple instrument pack in front of the driver with a 110mph speedo.


Mainstream Rover Mini Cooper
June 1990- September 1991
These more mainstream models ran longer than the RSP Cooper special edition, starting at the same June 1990 date but on the Longbridge lines until September 1991. You can spot a mainstream Cooper by it having no bonnet decals (as standard, remember, many were fitted aftermarket). The door mirrors are colour coded to the roof rather than the body, and the wheel arch extensions are black self-coloured plastic. No driving lights were fitted as standard, whereas RSP Coopers had a pair, and the eagleeyed will observe that mainstream Coopers were only ever fitted with sealed-beam headlamps. Glass is non-tinted and no sunroof was fitted.
Inside, the seats have black vinyl facings with ‘Crayons’ cloth, and the carpets are black. The steering wheel is bound in black leather. 
The engine is the same as the RSP, but has no oil cooler and the electric fan is bolted onto the inner wing, with its wiring harness incorporated into the rest of the loom, unlike the RSP which features a separate harness for the fan. The air intake motif featured the Mini Cooper bonnet badge logo embossed on it, which the RSP does not.


Rover Mini Cooper 1.3i 
from September 1991
The big news for 1991 was the introduction of fuel injection. The 1275 A+ motor was a derivative of the MG Metro unit with ‘SPI’ in Rover parlance, or single point injection with a closedloop 3-way cat. Ignition was electronic, and the car had an oil cooler and twin electric cooling fans. Basically it looked the same as the mainstream Cooper, except it placed the winged chromed Mini Cooper badge on the bootlid and had a chrome 1.3i badge also on the boot. Inside was the same as the RSP Cooper, except the Lightning seat fabric extended to the edge of the chairs, and an R652 stereo radio/cassette player was fitted.


Rover Mini Cooper Si 
from 1995
With the resurgence of the Mini name, and an increased interest on the part of new owner of the brand, BMW in ensuring a healthy future for its still-secret MINI, the new-for-96 Si featured the first sight of the latest bodyshell for the original Mini, the Mk VII. The options list expanded, and the full-width dashboard gained potentially a walnut-style dashboard and cream faced instruments.

ROVER P4 REVIEW

There’s something wonderfully ‘right’ about a good P4. There’s a crisp, ‘engineered’ feel that works well with all the wood and leather, while clambering aboard is an experience, with those suicide rear doors adding excitement for passengers.

The six-cylinder models get all of the glory, but there’s not a lot wrong with the four-cylinder engines – both of which saw use in Land Rovers. While no racing machine, a P4 is easily capable of holding its own on a motorway. The high seating position and enormous steering wheel combine to make you feel king of the road, while the delicious, exposed gear linkage is sheer delight to use. The later servo-assisted brakes give a lot more stopping power, though they still need a fairly good shove.

The handling was never anything to get too excited about, but then this isn’t a car to push hard. If you insist, the nose will soon push wide and unsettling bodyroll sets ins. That said, avoid over-harsh cornering efforts and the P4 can barrel along a twisty B-road at a fair speed. The steering is direct and should feel very accurate, just don’t expect to hurtle around roundabouts like a Mini.

Better to think back to times gone by, when rushing around simply wasn’t the done thing. Settle back for the cruise and the comfort and refinement will take your mind away from such worries as time. Noise levels are surprisingly low, with a delicious first-gear whine from the transmission just adding to the joy of it all.

The 75, 90, 95, 100 and 110 are all six-cylinder powered, with power ranging from 72 to 123bhp. The 60 and 80 are the four-cylinder options, and while they’re down on power, they feel a touch lighter in the steering to compensate.


VITAL STATISTICS

Rover 100

 

Engine                                    2625cc/6-cyl/OHV/Bosch injection

 

Power (bhp@rpm)                  104bhp@4750rpm

 

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 138lb ft@1500rpm

 

Top speed                                95mph

 

0-60mph                                  18sec

 

Consumption                            20mpg 

 

Gearbox                                    4-spd manual overdrive 


WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Bodywork checks are absolutely key, as restoration can quickly get prohibitively expensive. Repair sections are available for the indicator area, and around the headlamps. Glassfibre wings are available, but purists aren’t keen. Check all the brightwork carefully as some of it is Mazak, which pits badly with age.

Sills are a common rot spot and it can spread into the floors. Doors are usually aluminium, though they were steel on later cars. Both can oxidise. A-posts can corrode, and the door will then drop as it is opened. Rot is also possible at the base of the front wing. Interiors are plush and very expensive to overhaul. Water ingress is an issue, thanks to tired window seals. If it has leaked in, it often pools in the passenger footwell. Well-cared for leather should be soft and pliable to the touch. 

Corrosion can strike the chassis, especially where it rises up above the rear axle. It’s very difficult to check with the car at ground level, so you either need to remove the rear wheels, or talk a garage into letting you borrow their hoist. Repairs are possible, but need to be done well to prevent further trouble. Rot affects the rear wings, especially the lower edges and across the rear valance. Open the boot and check again for water ingress and crunchiness. Be very wary if the boot will not stay open. It is cantilevered, but the mounts can suffer from rot. 

 

ENGINE

Various engines were fitted, with six-cylinders most popular. Rebuild parts can be very expensive, even for the four-cylinder engine. If regular oil changes are not adhered to, camshaft wear can occur and replacement is the only cure. If clouds of blue smoke appear after a long period idling, head work will be needed. Low oil pressure suggests a general overhaul is needed and may cause blue smoke to appear continuously. Exhaust manifolds can crack, so listen out for a chuffing noise. Overheating can be an issue with a neglected engine too, as ancient coolant can silt up the radiator and/or block.

 

RUNNING GEAR

The gearbox is generally robust, but removing it is a pain as the interior needs to be stripped to allow access. Watch for failing synchromesh, especially on second – thought this gear was only so equipped from 1952. First gear has no synchromesh and will always whine. If overdrive was fitted, the quirky freewheel was not. The overdrive won’t engage below 50mph and should, in theory, kick-down from overdrive if the throttle is floored. The two-pedal Roverdrive can be troublesome if parts are needed, though it’s quite reliable. Only 3540 were made with this ’box.

 

BRAKES

Many P4s have now escaped the need for an MoT (cars built after 1960 still need one), so be vigilant. Rot can strike around the steering box idler mountings, as well as the front outriggers. Wear in the suspension top bush will cause uneven tyre wear and clonks, while kingpins can naturally wear – these should be lubricated with heavy oil, not grease. The steering should not be vague. Radial tyres can make the steering exceedingly heavy, but offer benefits once under way, though supply is tricky at the moment. 

Rear axles are very hardy and rarely give trouble. Do make sure the handbrake works though. The mechanism often seizes up and people assume they were always rubbish. They weren’t. Incidentally, check the condition of the hubcaps. Replacements are not cheap. The rear leaf springs can sag with age. Retempering or replacement are the only cure. The nose-high stance isn’t helped by front springs actually getting harder with age. Have a quick glance at the brake back plates if you can. If the outer driveshaft seals have worn, the brakes can get contaminated.


OUR VERDICT

There is a surprisingly wide variety in the P4 range. The six-cylinder 100 is most abundant, and remains a great buy. Don’t rule out an 80 though. Engine spares certainly aren’t an issue, thanks to the use in Land Rovers until the 1980s. Whichever you opt for, the P4 remains a wonderful driver’s classic.

BMW E34 5-SERIES REVIEW

Quick, solid and reliable, BMW’s E34 5 Series was a stunning statement of the German car maker’s abilities. It’s a vehicle that was coveted worldwide during the 1990s...
 

BMW’s third generation 5 Series was the E34, in production from 1988 to 1995. Though earlier BMWs suffered from dubious reliability, this one was a cracker. It was also a very neat design, which worked superbly as either a saloon or ‘Touring’ estate.

There was no shortage of options for this model, which opened with the four-cylinder 518i (it means 1.8-litre injection), went on through small-block sixes (520i and 525i) to big-block sixes (530i, 535i), all the way up to V8s (later 530i, 540i). There were also some
damn good six-cylinder turbodiesels (525td and intercooled 525tds).

These were practical everyday saloons that were also entertaining to drive in bigger-engined form. Buy one now and marvel at what BMW achieved.  

VITAL STATISTICS

BMW 535i

Engine                                    3430cc/6-cyl/SOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  211bhp@5700rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 220lb ft@4000rpm

Top speed                                139mph

0-60mph                                  7.9sec

Consumption                            23mpg

Gearbox                                    4-speed automatic

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

There’s not much that goes wrong with an E34’s bodywork, although you will probably find stonechips around the nose. If they have already rusted, the car hasn’t been looked
after carefully. Blocked drain holes allow water to collect in the door bottoms, and eventually this becomes a problem.

Otherwise, rust is practically non-existent. If you do find some, suspect an accident repair done on the cheap. There are plenty of E34s around, so avoid any seriously rusty examples, except maybe as a source of spares.

Peculiar to Britain were the 525i Sport models, with an M Technic bodykit of sills, spoilers and aprons (along with lowered suspension, sports seats, and other extras). These were attractively priced, and were often bought by people who wanted a bigger-engined E34 but couldn’t afford it. Lots of them were used very hard, so take appropriate caution when viewing one.

ENGINE

Engines were always BMW’s great strength, but we’d recommend a six or a V8. Interesting cars start with the 525i and upwards. All engines (even the diesels) are astonishingly smooth and refined when in tip-top condition. Look out, though: the rip-roaring 535i attracted the drive-it-into-the-ground brigade and many have been thrashed. Head gaskets and water pumps are weaknesses on these big sixes, so check the service history and look for overheating and roughness.

The early small sixes (520i and 525i) had belt-driven camshafts, and the belts need changing about every 30,000 miles. Like the bigger sixes, these cars are also prone to water pump problems, so check the service history. Later four-valve cars have chain-driven camshafts.

In Britain, the early V8s got a bad reputation when the high sulphur content of our petrol wore the Nikasil bore linings prematurely. BMW changed a lot of engines under warranty, and later V8s have Alusil linings which don’t suffer the same way. Bore wear isn’t a particular problem today.

RUNNING GEAR

Typically, a bigger-engined E34 will have a four-speed ZF automatic with lock-up top gear (which reduces slip and fuel wastage). These transmissions have an excellent reputation, but when worn will slip on upchanges. Later variants had improved internals to deal with this weakness, and exchange gearboxes are readily available from specialists – mostly re-built with the improved components. The V8s have five-speed overdrive autos, which are fairly bullet-proof.

Check the brake discs for any signs of wear or scoring, especially on the bigger-engined cars, which tended to get used harder. The front suspension deserves very close examination. Worn ball-joints cause the steering to feel sloppy, but imprecise steering feel may also result from worn bushes; front-end shimmy under braking will confirm that’s the problem. Note that the later bushes are longer-lived than the originals, with which they are fully interchangeable. Bushes can wear at the back end, too, and you’ll know it’s time for replacements if you can hear a knocking noise on either acceleration or deceleration. 

Rare and complex – but highly desirable – is the 525iX model, with rear-biased, computer-controlled four-wheel drive. Check that it all works properly.


INTERIOR

You won’t get many creaks and rattles from the dash of an E34. However, there’s
a lot of sophisticated equipment – automatic temperature regulation, the Electronic Check Control malfunction warning system, and Service Indicator lights – and it’s not completely bulletproof. The Service Indicator lights can play up, and if the diagnosis is a dead circuit board, owners tend to go for the cheap option of disconnection. So check that the lights do function.

Seats and carpets are remarkably hard-wearing, so any evidence of problems here should sound alarm bells. Is the mileage really as low as the odometer suggests?

Many E34s had a sliding sunroof, and the operating mechanism can jam or break. Check that the central locking works correctly, especially on post-1991 models where the actuator can fail.

One final word of warning: there’s not as much room in the back of an E34 as you might imagine. As always, try before you buy.

OUR VERDICT

The E34 5 series helped raise the game in the medium-saloon market and made BMW a serious threat to former acknowledged leader Mercedes-Benz. With good looks, four- (or five-) door practicality, excellent dynamics and superb engines (even the 1.8-litre four isn't bad), these are simply marvellous cars which you can still use every day, as well as pamper like classics. As for parts and maintenance, you won't have any worries - although you might find ownership costs of the bigger-engined models a bit of a choker.

ROVER P5B REVIEW

A quintessentially British luxury saloon, the Rover P5B is well worth a closer look.

The P5B is all about one thing and that’s comfort. It starts with a luxurious and well-appointed cabin that is a fine place to while away the miles; this is a car that can cover long distances without putting any strain on the driver or passengers. Settled into the comfy leather chairs and with a light grip on the thin-rimmed wheel, you’re all ready to enjoy everything the stylish Rover has to offer. Finger-light steering and a cosseting ride make covering big miles a relaxing affair, and while B-road heroics are strictly off the menu, this is exactly what you’d expect from this fine British car. The P5B is no sluggard, though, despite a hefty kerb weight – the smooth, torquey V8 engine is more than capable of providing a decent turn of pace, although making the most of that performance will come at the expense of eye-watering fuel consumption. Stopping is no problem either, as the brakes respond strongly to the lightest of pedal pressure, and are more inspiring than the slightly lacklustre steering. A wonderful way to travel, though.


VITAL STATISTICS

Rover P5B

 

Engine                                    3528cc/V8/OHV

 

Power (bhp@rpm)                  160bhp@5200rpm

 

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 226lb ft@3000rpm

 

Top speed                                110mph

 

0-60mph                                  10.7sec

 

Consumption                            17.2mpg 

 

Gearbox                                    4-spd manual/4-spd auto opt.


WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

The Rover V8 is a tough unit and easily capable of 150,000 miles or more. Regular changes of oil and antifreeze are the key, but also check for signs of overheating that could lead to head gasket failure. Radiators will fur-up and leak over time, so a bill for a replacement is a good sign. Oil leaks from the engine block and gearbox can be a niggle but are often caused by blockeded breathers, so check there first. Early cars were fitted with a low-volume oil pump, so fitting one from the Rover SD1 engine is a useful mod. Ticking from the camshafts and hydraulic tappets when the engine is warm mean a top-end re-build is probably overdue. Listen for leaks from the exhaust manifold as securing nuts can work loose. Auto chokes can give trouble so manual conversions are common. Listen for pinking as these engines should run on Five Star petrol.

The complex three-piece sills can rot badly (particularly around the jacking points) so it pays to dig deeper even if things appear fine, and you should also check the front and rear inner wings and the boot floor. Pay close attention to wheelarches, door bottoms and the rear valance, as well as the door pillars. The base of the D-pillar can rot where it meets the rear wheelarch, so check around the end of the sill/kickplate with the door open. Inspect for even panel gaps and ensure the doors don’t sag when open. Bubbling under the front and rear screen rubbers is bad news as rot is costly to repair.

 

RUNNING GEAR

An automatic gearbox was standard on the P5B – Borg Warner DG on early models, BW 35 later on – and both are reliable as long as they aren’t abused. Blackened or burnt-smelling fluid suggests potential problems. Rear axles are considered bombproof, so any issues will be apparent on a test drive, as will a vibration caused by a worn propshaft centre bearing – the latter is a cheap fix, though.

The rest of the running gear is fairly straightforward and unlikely to cause problems if well maintained. Look out for worn shock absorbers and sagging rear leaf springs, along with any rot around the mountings for the front torsion bar springs. Little-used examples could be in need of a brake overhaul so check for corroded brake pipes or seized handbrake mechanisms. The power steering system is prone to leaks from seals or the steering box; some owners fit an uprated box that is available from specialists. The Rostyle wheels are specific to the P5B so ensure these are still fitted – they can be refurbished at a reasonable cost if need be.

 

BRAKES

If we haven’t put you off already, there’s one more hidden area to examine for corrosion. This is the ledge on the bulkhead that supports the brake servo. Debris accumulates here and, especially if combined with leaking brake fluid, can cause the metal underneath to rot through. 


INTERIOR

The cabin of a P5B needs to be in good condition if an expensive resto is to be avoided. Rover used high quality leather, carpets and wood veneers so check for wear and tear or any water damage. Also check that the instruments are working correctly – the window winders on coupés are a notorious weak point.


OUR VERDICT

This is old-school British luxury as its very best, and should feature on the list of any buyer looking for a comfortable and stylish classic. Whether you pick the saloon or the coupé, the lovely interior and woofling V8 engine are the stars here, but as with any car of this age you do need to buy carefully. Condition is everything with the P5B and returning a restoration case to its former glory can easily soak up huge amounts of cash, so enlisting the help of a specialist to help you find the right car is a sensible move.