BITTER SC REVIEW

It’s stylish, exclusive, reliable and well built – and fast too. In fact the Bitter SC makes a superb long-distance cruiser, but they’re none too plentiful.
 

The Germans have a reputation for fabulous engineering but combined with dowdy looks. So wouldn’t it be great if you could combine Teutonic running gear with a svelte suit? Well wouldn’t you know it – that’s exactly what Erich Bitter did when he came up with the SC (Senator Coupé) in 1979.

Blending stylish lines with Opel engineering, the Bitter SC came and went before most UK buyers even realised it existed, ensuring few were sold. The survival rate is high however, so while SCs are uncommon, they are around.

The SC coupé debuted in 1979, right-hand drive cars arriving in the UK in 1982. When the SC died in 1989, just 26 RHD cars had been sold, all two-door coupe and two of them with four-wheel drive.

Most of the 450 SCs built were coupés, but there were also five four-door saloons and 25 convertibles. None of these are in the UK though and they were all left-hand drive, so if you’re after an SC, the chances are you’ll have to settle for an LHD coupé brought over from mainland Europe.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine 2969cc 6-cylinder SOHC
Power 178bhp@5800rpm
Torque 179lb ft@5800rpm
Top Speed 134mph
0-60mph 8.8sec
Gearbox 5-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

The first 50 SCs, all LHD and built between late-1980 and early-1983, are the most rust-prone as they were made of recycled steel – most have now rotted away. Later cars were better-built; best of the lot are post-1983 cars, which were dipped for more thorough rustproofing. You’d be unlucky to find a rotten car, but there are quite a few trouble spots on an SC’s bodyshell.

Start with the top of each front suspension turret; proper repairs require the removal of the outer wing, and the suspension will collapse if it’s ignored. The front and rear screen surrounds also corrode, as their sealant dries out and cracks, allowing water in; the screens have to be removed altogether in some cases.

The rear wheelarches also rust, as does the lower edge of the bootlid, which rots from the inside out. The frames of the rear side windows often rust, as do the trailing edge of the front wings, the bottom edges of the doors and the leading as well as the trailing edges of the sills, all of which rust from the inside out. Finish off by checking the headlamp wells from behind by lifting the bonnet; they rot once their drain holes have blocked up.

Replacement panels are unavailable aside from the odd used item through the club; it’s the same for the exterior brightwork and rubbing strips, which are unique to the model. Windscreens are available but the rest of the SC’s glass is pretty much extinct, although the odd second-hand piece can be sourced occasionally.

ENGINE

All SCs have an Opel-sourced straight-six, displacing either 3.0- or 3.9-litres; the smaller engine is rare as the larger unit was offered from 1984, and most buyers specified it. Bitter used German tuning outfit Mantzel to create a 3.9-litre engine from a 3.0 unit; the cylinder head, pistons and crankshaft were all modified, but Mantzel is still in business and everything is still available if needed – but costly.

The straight-six is strong, but it tends to run hot, leading to the manifold gasket blowing – the manifold faces have also been known to warp. The heat given off by the engine can also lead to the fuel injection wiring melting, so make sure the engine runs smoothly.

TRANSMISSION

The transmission was taken from the Senator/Monza, so it’s tough. Most SCs have a three-speed automatic gearbox, although a few have a manual one. Of the manuals, most have the five-speed Getrag 265 ‘box of the later Senator/Monza, but a few feature the earlier four-speed unit. Early boxes can be swapped for later ones, although some jiggery pokery is required.

Propshafts, driveshafts and differentials are strong, with wear almost unknown. Incidentally, all SCs have a limited-slip diff, which should be filled with the correct LSD-friendly oil, even though the Bitter handbook states that standard EP80 lubricant can be used.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES

The SC’s suspension is also taken from the pre-1983 Monza/Senator, but it’s lowered and stiffened, with Bilstein gas dampers. Everything is available, so if you bounce each corner to see if it’s tired, and find it is, all is not lost.

Until August 1983 there were fixed callipers at the front, but later cars used a floating design. Both types are reliable though, and everything is available, although it’s getting ever harder to find.

INTERIOR

Most of the SC’s interior surfaces are covered in fine calf skin, which can split or tear, or crack if it’s been allowed to dry out – repairs are costly. The same goes for the woodwork, which can delaminate.

If the air-con system has its original R12 refrigerant, which is now illegal, it’ll cost £1000 plus to convert it to a modern refrigerant; if the system isn’t working at all, expect a similar-size bill to get it operational. Also ensure the heater works properly, as the matrix can fail and replacements are hard to find. Even worse, the dash has to come out to fit a new matrix, which is why the whole system is sometimes bypassed. Check there’s a pipe running from the front of the engine through the bulkhead – if it runs down to the back of the engine instead, the matrix has been bypassed.

ELECTRICS

The electrics are generally reliable, although the loom can fracture where it goes into the doors, for the windows, central locking and mirrors. The instruments and switchgear are all taken from the 1978-1981 Senator, aside from the electric mirror switch; that came from the 1983 Senator. Nothing is available new, although used bits crop up occasionally. The instruments carry the Bitter logo though, so you’ll need professional help to swap the faces over if you need to replace anything.

All lighting is available; early cars feature Fiat 126 sidelights and indicators (mounted in the bumpers) while the Ferrari Mondial supplied the later ones; they’re harder to find and much more costly. The rear lights are taken from the Lancia Monte Carlo, and they’re available but expensive.

VERDICT

Yes – if you can find one. The SC is utterly usable as it’s well screwed together and uses relatively modern engineering. However, while purchase costs are low and maintenance is straightforward, fuel costs can be high; in general use you can expect just 20mpg or so. Still, when you’ve got as much style as the SC can muster, you’ll be too busy soaking up the admiring glances to worry about the fuel bills.

TVR CHIMAERA REVIEW

The Chimaera was produced by TVR for nine years, between 1992 and 2003. Those who remember Greek myths and legends from school will be familiar with the cars name Chimaera was a creature composed of several different animal parts. The two seater was equipped with various sized engines throughout its production lifespan, ranging from a 4.0l V8 to a 5.0l V8.

It's an affordable route into TVR ownership, and you'll never tire of the looks or the exhaust note. Here's how to pick up some Blackpool thunder.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine 4495cc/V8/OHV

Power 285bhp @ 5500rpm

Torque 300lb ft @ 4250rpm

Top Speed 158mph

0-60mph 4.6sec

Consumption 20mpg

Gearbox 5-speed manual

Values £6000-22,000

IMPRESSIONS

The Chimaera is one smooth car. Free of door handles, fuel filler cap and even number plate lights, it has an unadorned beauty. Yet that chiselled snout hints at the menace that lurks below the sculpted bonnet while air vents allow a glimpse of the beast below.

Open the bonnet and the big V8 looks very snug in there.  The exhaust manifold sweeps forward into a huge downpipe that looks rather like an anaconda that's swallowed a small deer. Clearly, a lot of thought has gone into this installation.

Slip inside, and the work of Peter Wheeler, the man behind TVR in the Nineties and responsible for the Chimaera, becomes apparent. He was keen to move away from the parts-bin feel that typified earlier TVRs, and the bespoke switchgear is a clear indication of that. Ok, so the Vauxhall ignition barrel would be perfectly at home in a Mk2 Cavalier, but the column stalks, most of the switchgear and the gear knob are beautifully hewn out of aluminium. It's also very apparent that this is a quality place to sit, with lots of leather and visible stitching which is beautiful to behold. The seats are supremely comfortable too, a reminder that the Chimaera was meant to be a bit softer than the all-out Griffith sibling. All things are relative though – it’s a bit like saying that the Tiger is the least dangerous of the big cats.

If you're wondering what the control on the centre console does – the one that's not a gearshift or handbrake – it opens the doors, which use electric solenoids. All part of the drama and a reminder that this is definitely not the mainstream.

ON THE ROAD

The big V8 fires up seemingly with all the enthusiasm of a schoolboy with an early morning test. It's lumpy and sort of gurgles away up front sounding like an out of tune American pick-up. It's still very pleasant, but it doesn't really sound sporting, though the exhaust note has a thunderous beat to it.

Undaunted, I select first with the stubby shifter – which has a delightfully mechanical action – and ease up the clutch. Of course, there's oodles of torque, so barely any throttle is needed as I manoeuvre away. With the engine cold, I keep the changes coming and burble off down the road. This gives a chance to take in my surroundings. It's immediately apparent that the steering is geared to be very direct, but power assistance takes the effort out of it at low speeds. However, it takes a little getting used to, with the steering feeling a bit nervous as I get used to quickness of it.

Ride comfort is impressive, especially for a car that also feels so raw. Even Fenland roads cannot upset the composure, though really broken surfaces to cause the plastic panels to rattle slightly. However, comfort isn’t really what this car is about, so now the engine's nice and warm, let's see what she'll do.

At 50mph in fifth, a brutal application of throttle soon has speed picking up, but if anything, it feels a bit tame for something that's got as much power as this. A junction gives a chance to slot down to second and this time, it's a very different story. That V8, which had seemed so truculent and even, dare I say it, a bit lazy, screams like a startled mare and once 3000rpm is reached, the power comes thick and fast. Keep the pedal down and the exhaust goes from a burble to a full-blooded roar as the engine rapidly heads towards peak power at 5500rpm. The gate is short and I snick the lever to third for a brief burst before thing get a touch on the speedy side, so I slot into fifth. And smile a lot.

As the road twists and curves, the handling comes alive. The enormous tyres tame the power, and provide plenty of grip. The direct steering is perfectly weighted at speed and with practise, you can aim the nose with uncanny precision. Ease the power in for balance and once heading straight (and only when doing so) the right-pedal can be lowered once more and we're off to the next one.

The brakes need a good shove to give their best, but that feels right. They're certainly up to the task and give me the confidence that yes, I will be going at a sensible speed when I reach my turn-in point. It's all incredible exciting yet, when you decide to calm things down and head back to the main roads, the car changes character once more, and becomes relatively docile and gentle. However, if you keep pottering around a village for too long, the car develops a brooding impatience to get moving again, feeling distinctly lumpy if you bimble around for too long.

It certainly delivers an entertaining driving experience, and it's most odd to recall that production of the Chimaera only ended five years ago. It's even more incredible to realise that Chimaeras do not cost the earth to buy. The one I'm driving has a value of £11,995 – that's Merc SL or Triumph Stag money. The Chimaera has left me feeling utterly thrilled, demonstrating that the Great British sportscar traditions were alive well into the 21stCentury

OUR VERDICT

The Chimaera is great to drive, and shouldn't prove difficult to look after if you buy a sound example; and there's excellent club and specialist support. The addictive noise and performance is worth every penny in our book.

TVR Chimaera

BEDFORD CA DORMOBILE (1952-1969) REVIEW

The van that started the camper revolution, Bedford’s immortal CA still makes ideal holiday accommodation.

Few commercial vehicles can claim to have shaped social history like the Bedford CA. Following its 1952 launch, it kick-started the post-WW2 camper van revolution.

With modern full-width steel panels and a shortened nose, complemented by Vauxhall-derived mechanicals, the new Luton-built van was streets ahead of the ageing PC model it replaced.

Kent-based coachbuilders Martin Walter saw it as the natural choice for the multi-purpose Utilicon and Utilibrake conversions. Acting as van, estate car, minibus and overnight sleeper, this spawned the fully-equipped Dormobile. With everything the holidaymaker needed in one package, the leisure industry would never quite be the same again.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine                                    1594cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  59bhp@4000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 86lb ft@2000rpm

Top speed                                68mph

0-60mph                                  Approx 40sec (be brave)

Consumption                            24mpg  

Gearbox                                    4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Rust is often a major issue with the CA. Secondhand panels occasionally crop up, but be prepared to repair what you have. The step recesses behind the front and rear doors are the first places to inspect, followed by the door bottoms and the lower quarters of the body. Filler could be hiding some nasty surprises, so watch for bubbling paint. Sill structures are vulnerable, so they should be examined closely, as should chassis box sections.

Later Romany Deluxe Dormobiles had glassfibre trim panels fitted. The finned rear wing panels can cause trouble if moisture has been trapped between steel and glassfibre, allowing rot to remain unnoticed until it’s too late. Crusty rear wheelarches and rust stains bleeding from under trim are clues.

Not all Dormobiles were built with the famous elevating roof, although if this feature is present, then its condition is crucial. Replacement of the striped plastic material is possible, but it won’t be cheap. Check that the glassfibre roof panel is sealed correctly and that rainwater hasn’t been allowed ingress. If this has happened, inspect the floorpans and interior trim for signs of rot or damage.

ENGINE

Accessed by an external ‘bonnet’ hatch, and a removable panel between the front footwells, the CA was powered by all-iron engines of 1508cc and, later, 1594cc capacities. These powerplants work harder in the CA than in the Vauxhall Victor, but they are sturdy. As a result, check for the same maladies as other British four-cylinder units.

Blue oil smoke is a clear indicator of worn valve guides or bore wear, the latter being an engine-out job. White smoke from the exhaust points to head gasket failure, as does traces of ‘mayonnaise’ in the oil, or lubricant and coolant being mixed.

RUNNING GEAR

Despite its cutting-edge design, the CA was initially only available with a ‘three-on-the-tree’ column gear-change. This was later upgraded to four speeds. Check if the synchromesh on second and third gears (and fourth on later units) still provides crunch-free changes.

Look for leaks from the oil seals – if lubricant levels have run low then the transmission is likely to be noisy. Expect some noise from units with high mileage, but particularly vocal gearboxes will require rebuilding or replacement. The same goes for rear axles, which can suffer from low oil levels.

The all-round drum brake system should be capable of slowing the CA from speed without
too much fuss. Check the van pulls up squarely
– leaking or sticking wheel cylinders could be behind pulling to either side.

INTERIOR

With more fittings than most classics, including domestic fixtures alien to the average saloon, there’s plenty to inspect. External brightwork varied from model to model, but missing parts will be extremely difficult to replace.

Inside, check that the Dormobile folding seats are in operating condition, and that soft furnishings such as seat covers and curtains aren’t damaged. If the melamine-covered wooden cupboards require repair, then imagination will be required. Ensure that sinks and gas hobs are present and correct.

OUR VERDICT

The Bedford CA Dormobile is more than just a classic vehicle – it is also a people-mover, load-lugger, spare bedroom, style icon and holiday choice. 

Regardless if nostalgia or camping practicality is your motivation, the CA is
as practical and as entertaining as it was in the 1950s. All you need to see the world is
a sense of adventure and a CA.

TVR GRIFFITH REVIEW

This roadster looks great, sounds even better, and the sledgehammer performance is hard to resist.

If you’re not instantly smitten by the looks, then you almost certainly will be by the driving experience. Dominated by the bellowing V8 engines, the noise and performance are seriously addictive and it takes only a matter of yards to realise why the Griffith is so popular. Unashamedly macho in design and execution, lack of traction control or ABS means a degree of caution is needed in slippery conditions. 
The well-judged suspension set-up and strong brakes inspire confidence though and there’s real enjoyment to be had on the right road. The Griffith’s cabin is a fine place to spend time, and there is plenty of equipment too. A sound driving position with plenty of adjustment and supportive seats make for a fine long-distance companion, so this really is a performance car to use every day.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine                                    4988cc/V8/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  340bhp@5500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 350lb ft@4000rpm

Top speed                                167mph

0-60mph                                  4.1sec

Consumption                            20mpg 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
There are no particular issues with the high quality GRP bodywork, although the low-slung nose is susceptible to stone-chips and it’s worth checking for cracks or minor damage that can be tricky to repair. A surfeit of power, no electronic driver aids, and popularity as a track day tool mean accident damage is a real possibility, so iffy panel alignment should ring alarm bells. Impacts won’t do much for chassis alignment either so get a professional inspection if you’re unsure. Make sure the lift-out targa panel and rear screen are undamaged as neither are a cheap fix, while some exterior parts (the Cavalier GSi-sourced smoked tail lights for instance) are hard to find. 

Checking the state of the chassis is absolutely vital on a Griffith. The steel spaceframe was powder-coated to (unsuccessfully) prevent corrosion, and the safest approach is to assume it will be rotten. Outriggers are usually first to go, and while repairs may be possible without removing the body, a £2000 bill from a specialist beckons. The chassis tubes are visible in the wheelarches at the end of the sill and if the coating has chipped away and rust is visible here, assume the worst and get the car on a ramp. However, removing the body is often the only way of being certain.

ENGINE

The Rover-derived V8s were 4.0, 4.3, and 5.0-litre units (with a tiny number of 4.5s built), all with Lucas engine management. Don’t worry too much about oil leaks – the sump joint and rocker cover are the likely culprits and easy to sort – but failed camshafts were a known weakness so check for evidence of replacement. Leaking radiators can cause overheating so keep an eye on the dials during the test drive – fitting an uprated aluminium item is a worthwhile modification. Cracked exhaust manifolds aren’t unheard of either.

RUNNING GEAR

Gearboxes were either the LT-77 Rover unit (early models) or the Borg Warner T5 (500 and all models from 1994). Both are strong with the T5 considered almost indestructible in normal use, although a graunch when selecting reverse is normal on these – selecting a forward gear first avoids the problem. Clutches last well considering the performance – usually 30,000 miles or so – while a slight whine from the limited slip differential isn’t a worry. The GKN unit in early cars was swapped for a Salisbury from 1994.

BRAKES

The brakes are more than up to handling the performance but watch for juddery warped discs. Uneven tyre wear or knocking over bumps is likely to mean suspension bushes and ball-joints in need of attention, and make sure you examine the chassis where the wishbones attach, as it’s a common rot-spot. Power steering was a desirable option when new, though bear in mind new powered racks aren’t available. 

INTERIOR

Top-quality cabin materials mean you’ll be facing a substantial four-figure bill for a complete re-trim, so make sure the wood and leather are undamaged and there is no evidence of water leaks. Substantial heat-soak means air-conditioning is desirable so make sure it blows cold and check all the electrics work as intended. Any signs of bodged wiring on a Griff’ should have you running a mile.

OUR VERDICT

For sheer looks and drama, a well-sorted Griffith is a car many of us would find hard to resist. Admittedly, the shouty attitude won’t suit everyone and it isn’t a car for shrinking violets, but if it’s performance you want and a car that turns every journey into an occasion, then this TVR is for you. We’d take the full-fat 500.

BALLOT 2LTS REVIEW

A former marine engineer, Ernest Ballot originally founded his company in 1910 in Paris to manufacture internal combustion engines for cars and stationary use.

By 1919 Ballot was producing complete chassis with exotic twin-cam multi-valve cylinder heads designed for racing. As well as entering the French, Italian, and Spanish Grand Prix, entries to the Targa Florio and Indianapolis 500 were also made, winning several events with spectacular performances. However, these machines were expensive and had a limited market, and from 1921 a 93mph 2LS road car was developed with twin-cams and 4 valves per cylinder. By 1923 the 2LT single cam was available to the British market, numbering about 1500 examples.

TVR TASMIN REVIEW

Stylish and eye-catching partnered with brute power, the TVR 'Wedge' range was an enduring success. Developed with input from Lotus designers Oliver Winterbottom and Ian Jones, the Tasmin FHC Series 1 was officially launched at the NEC Motor Show in October 1980 as a two-seater coupé. 

Initially powered by the 2792cc fuel injected Ford V6 'Cologne' 160bhp power plant and a non-overdrive four speed manual gearbox, with the option of an automatic being offered as from October 1980. The Tasmin was the first TVR to have this as an option.

The range expanded with a 2+2 and convertible in 1981. The Plus 2 was short lived, but when it was dropped, the larger body, without the rear seats, was used for the coupé. A five-speed gearbox was introduced in 1983.

Sales of the Tasmin were slow, in part due to the steep increase in price from the outgoing Taimars. TVR production reached a low of 121 in 1982. TVR briefly trialled an "entry level" priced version, the Tasmin 200, powered by the Ford 1993cc four cylinder Pinto engine. They didn’t prove popular and production was halted after a short time. Only 16 Tasmin 200 coupes and 45 convertibles were made in total.

There swiftly followed a short lived experiment with turbo charging the Tasmin, in an attempt to increase the performance of the V6 cars, which never really made it into production and only a few examples of the Tasmin Turbo were ever produced. 

In 1984 the Tasmin name was dropped and the car was rebadged TVR 280i, although early 350i's were also referred to as the "Tasmin 350i".

The Tasmin brought two ‘firsts’ to the motoring world. It was the first production car in the world to have both a bonded windscreen and also to incorporate the aerial in the rear screen heater element.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine Ford V6 'Cologne'

Power 145bhp

Torque 150lb ft

Top speed 134mph

0-60mph 9.7sec

Economy 22mpg

Gearbox Five-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Engine

The engines on the 200, 280i and 350i are pretty much standard Ford and Rover units. Parts for the engines themselves are relatively common although be aware that not all components are standard Ford items as TVR has been known to modify certain components.

Chassis

The chassis comprises of a steel tubular pipework that has been powder coated for extra corrosion resistance. Over the years the protective surface is compromised and water gets in and starts to lift the protective coating. Before you know it the chassis has started to rot. Check this out thoroughly.

Bodywork & Trim

Bodypanels, doors, light pods, bumpers, spoilers etc are now getting scarce, especially as the factory now no longer stocks such items. Although there are a few specialist fibreglass repair companies offering a full repair service full panel replacements will be difficult to source.

Interior trim can also be expensive to have repaired or replaced. The wood vaneer and leather seats and upholstery are a prime example of such items. If you can, when looking to purchase a car, try to get one with the trim in relatively good condition. The interiors on these cars can deteriorate quickly if not looked after.

The hood and door/window seals can be replaced but again, bank on an outlay of quite a few hundred pounds unless you are talented or brave enough to do the work yourself.

Electrics

Issues with electrical items not working can be down to simply a wire off or a corroded fuse terminal to a failed or seized component. Some of the motors for instance such as the light pod lift, window lift, wing mirror positioning, heater fan and windscreen wiper motors can be very expensive to replace and difficult to source. Check these all work prior to negotiating a potential purchase.

Brakes & Transmission

The brakes have never been a strong point of the Wedge series cars so bear this in mind when stamping on them on a test drive. Also listen out for noises and 'clonks' from the transmission and suspension. This could be a sign of worn UJ's, failing steering racks or worn suspension bushes and springs etc.

OUR VERDICT

Riding around on a tidal wave of V8 noise with the roof down simply does not get any better. Go for it, stand out from the crowd and get yourself a TVR Wedge.

AUSTIN-HEALEY SPRITE REVIEW

Proving that less is more, the original Austin-Healey Sprite arguably started the trend for low-budget sports cars. We look into buying one today...
 

The original ‘Frogeye’ Sprite was a cheap and cheerful mass-produced sporting convertible that was also tremendous fun. Cheeky looks - the headlamps were initially planned to be retractable, until BMC realised that this innovative feature would put the price up – covered up the fact that underneath the skin it was mainly a blend of Austin A35 and Morris Minor. However, the humble ingredients were still capable of providing entertaining levels of performance. The 948 cc OHV engine (coded 9CC) was upgraded with twin 1.25 inch SU carburettors, giving 43bhp. The BMC Competition Department entered Austin-Healey Sprites in major international races and rallies, their first major success coming when John Sprinzel and Willy Cave won their class on the 1958 Alpine Rally. Prices today are out of all proportion to the Sprite’s budget origins, but they remain popular with sports car enthusiasts.

Despite the diminutive proportions of the Frogeye, even tall or bulky drivers can get comfortable behind the wheel pretty easily. Given that it weighs little more than half a ton, it is amazingly agile and this leads to the feeling the car is quicker than you’d expect. The 948cc engine revs freely up to about 400rpm, but begins to feel a little strained after that. The steering is light and impressively responsive too, while the non-servo-assisted brakes are positive and the gearchange is reasonably precise. The bodyshell is surprisingly rigid and the ride, although a little on the frim side, is not too jarringly firm. It gives both driver and passenger intimate knowledge of every surface irregularity along the way. At the same time however, there is a feeling of manoeuvrability control. Eventually the bumps fade away, to be replaced by a fiendish desire to slice around everything else blocking your way. 

VITAL STATISTICS

1958 Austin-Healey Sprite

Engine                                    948cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  45bhp@5500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 52lb ft@3000rpm

Top speed                                80mph

0-60mph                                  20.9sec

Consumption                            34mpg 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

The Frogeye was one of the first sports cars to sport monococque construction, so clearly any major body rot is not just going to be unsightly – potentially, it can be a complete deal-breaker.

As such, as well as all the usual places – arches, bonnet lip, etc. – check all the reinforcing box sections around the bulkheads, sills and jacking points – if there’s more frilly ferrous oxide here than metal, then only truly dedicated DIY restorers should proceed.

Close inspection of the enormous one-piece front is a must, too the entire front end – bonnet, wings and front panel – lifts in one piece to afford access to the engine, so it’s regularly put under a lot of structural stress. Ensure the rear hinges and surrounding metalwork are sound.

ENGINE

One of the major parameters for the Frogeye was always affordability – both for the buyer and for the manufacturer. To wit, the engine that nestles beneath that grinning front is a derivation of BMC’s venerable 948cc engine, which also did sterling service in the Austin A35 and Morris Minor.

And that’s good news, because engines don’t come much simpler than this. Performance was racked up to a dizzying 43bhp by the addition of twin SU carbs, although it’s not unheard of for Frogeyes to end up with a tuned Mini engine of some description – the 1275cc is the most popular – under the bonnet. This isn’t a problem in itself, although anything other than complete adherence to originality can have a detrimental effect on values.

Being of such simple design, major problems on well-maintained cars are rare, although the causes of any of the usual warning signs – blue smoke on the overrun, uneven idling, persistent cutting out, reluctance to run smoothly when hot – are usually very easy to trace.

ELECTRICS

The top-model 300SE and 300SEL had air suspension, which was high-tech stuff for the early 1960s. The ride it gives is quite remarkable, but problems can be very expensive indeed to fix, and parts are not plentiful. Buy an air-sprung Fintail with your eyes wide open, and have the phone numbers of a specialist and your bank manager close at hand.

RUNNING GEAR

The Frogeye’s steering and suspension were also lifted from the Morris Minor. Quarter elliptic rear springs and lever arm dampers don’t sound terribly exciting, but the addition of an upper radius arm above the rear axle virtually eliminated axle tramp. Anything other than ultra-alert handling, then, suggests that something is amiss.

Leaf spring breakage is common, as is rust both where the radius arms attach and around the spring location boxes on the rear bulkhead. Up front, worn damper bearings and kingpin bushes (these latter as a result of indifferent greasing) should always start alarm bells ringing.

Elsewhere, the differential is prone to oil leaks and halfshafts have a habit of breaking. The rack-and pinion steering is reassuringly robust, though, with split gaiters the only known recurring problem.

BRAKES

If we haven’t put you off already, there’s one more hidden area to examine for corrosion. This is the ledge on the bulkhead that supports the brake servo. Debris accumulates here and, especially if combined with leaking brake fluid, can cause the metal underneath to rot through.

INTERIOR

There’s not a great deal to the Frogeye’s interior, and while wear and tear to seats, carpets, etc. is inevitable, excellent aftermarket parts back-up means replacements – while hardly cheap – are reasonably plentiful.

Expect most of the wear to centre on the area behind the seats exterior appearances notwithstanding, the Frogeye isn’t actually fitted with an opening bootlid, so luggage must be hauled in and out via the open area immediately behind the seats. Inevitably, then, wear and tear is accelerated here, although the fact that full replacement carpet sets are readily available for less than £120 means this isn’t a huge problem. Elsewhere, wavering speedometer needles are common, but not the end of the world, although replacing a failed water temperature gauge can get expensive as the dial is combined with the oil pressure gauge, thereby effectively doubling the re-wiring job.

OUR VERDICT

There isn’t much that isn’t available new for the Austin-Healey Sprite. That said, if work is required, then restoration costs can quickly mount up. The simple construction of the car allows for a thorough inspection to be made of a prospective purchase before you actually part with your hard earned cash, so there is no reason for you to get your fingers burned.

Running costs are also very low – the road tax is free and insurance should be cheap too. Whatever you buy – and as long as you don’t pay over the odds – you’ll be having a whale of a time from the first moment you drive it. There’s not much that can touch the Frogeye for simplicity, even after more than half a century has passed since it first saw the light of day. So what are you waiting for?

TVR TUSCAN REVIEW

TVR’s long overdue replacement for the historically rather parts-bin Grantura finally broke cover in 1967, and instantly caused quite a stir. Previous models had never packed anything more powerful than a Coventry Climax, Ford Kent or BMC B-Series four-cylinder engine, but opening the bonnet of the first of the TVR Tuscans revealed a 4.7-litre V8 that packed 195bhp (over 270bhp on some US-market cars) and could push the little car all the way to 155mph.

Later models made do with a ‘mere’ V6 that mustered 136bhp and could top 125mph, but the car proved too much of a handful for buyers, and the Vixen that replaced it reverted to four-cylinder power.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine 2994cc/6-cyl/OHV

Power 134bhp@4750rpm

Torque 173lb/ft@3000rpm

Top speed 125mph               

0-60mph 8.3sec

Economy N/A

Gearbox 4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

The Tuscan uses a GRP body that is obviously impervious to rust, but crazing or cracking in the gelcoat is a sure sign of previous accident damage that hasn’t been repaired properly – quite a common problem on these often tricky handling little cars, and especially the V8. The tubular steel chassis can rot with the best of them, though, so make sure you take a peek underneath.

Build quality was never a strong point on these cars, and while most survivors are likely have been subjected to a proper restoration by now, check for mile-wide panel gaps and missing trim. This latter isn’t quite so much of a problem, as many trim items are shared with other, more mainstream cars – rear lights are shared with the Mk2 Ford Cortina, for example.

ENGINE

Tuscan power may have come courtesy of some seriously potent engines, but both the V6 and V8 are extremely tough units that can withstand big mileages with proper maintenance.

The 4.7-litre (289ci) Windsor V8 is closely related to the engine used in early Mustangs, and is as bullet-proof as any other small-block V8. The V6, meanwhile, is Ford’s familiar and easy to work on 3.0-litre Essex, as seen in both the Zodiac and Capri, among many other models. Both engines have plenty of tuning potential and huge parts back-up.

Common faults on maltreated cars include worn valve guides and/or piston rings (look out for oily exhaust smoke). Poor or erratic idling is often as a result of a damaged distributor or damaged contact breaker points, while excessive under-bonnet heat can cause fuel vaporisation, making an aftermarket electric fan a wise investment.

RUNNING GEAR

One area where the V6 and V8 cars do differ noticeably is in terms of their brakes. Where the V6 used front discs and rear drums, the V8’s greater power warranted better stopping power in the guise of all-round disc brakes.

Make sure the suspension is up to scratch, too: even the rare longer wheelbase models can oversteer seemingly at will in unpractised hands, so tired dampers and worn track-rod ends will simply make matters worse. Get any prospective purchase up onto a lift and have a good poke around. Better still, get a marque expert to do it for you.

Gearboxes have proved strong over the years, although any car that has seen hillclimb or trackday use may well be suffering from weakened synchromesh by now, with the upshift into second particularly prone to related crunching.

INTERIOR

This is where you need to be particularly vigilant when assessing a prospective purchase, as TVR trim build quality has never entirely inspired confidence.

One of the biggest issues concerns cab ventilation, which can be average to poor on both models, but particularly problematic on the V8s, which generate an enormous amount of heat. It was a problem when the cars were new, and short of expensive and/or Heath Robinson attempts to remedy the situation by previous owners, you’ll probably just have to put up with it.

Similarly, these cars are very popular with the motorsport fraternity, so cars in wholly original condition aren’t always easy to find, especially given the cars’ general rarity. If a car has spent time on-track, then bucket seats, re-trimmed dashboards, different steering wheels and so on may compromise an already cosy cockpit, especially on non-long-wheelbase cars, so do make sure you fit inside!

OUR VERDICT

This era of Tuscan was still under the remit of TVR legend, Martin Lilley, so they’re considered among the very best of the breed by marque aficionados. They’re also very rare (just 174 models in total sold between 1967 and 1971), extremely pretty and pack a ferocious punch when you put your foot down. The thunderous V8s in particular are almost absurdly fast, although the V6s aren’t that far behind. Take care with that oversteer-prone handling, though!

AUSTIN-HEALEY 3000 REVIEW

With a lusty, six-cylinder soundtrack, the Austin-Healey 3000 is one of the most evocative British classics around.

When the Austin-Healey 3000 was launched, externally at least it was unchanged from the outgoing 100-6. The major changes were mechanical, with the C-series engine growing in size to 2912cc. The 3000 MkII arrived in March 1961, with some detail changes and boasting a three-carburettor set-up, while the MkIII followed in March 1964. The last of the Big Healeys was built in 1967, but all variants remain popular today.

VITAL STATISTICS

1959 Austin-Healey 3000 MkI

Engine                                    2912cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  124bhp@4600rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 162lb ft@2700rpm

Top speed                                114mph

0-60mph                                  11.4sec

Consumption                            24mpg

Gearbox                                    4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Examine bodywork very carefully – it consists of many overlapping compound curves and that celebrated swage line takes a skilled body man hours to get right. Any misalignment where it crosses from door skin to wing will be obvious – experienced Healey restorers usually repair a door rather than re-skin it, in order to preserve the swage.

Also thoroughly assess the front metalwork around the grille and bonnet for any damage. This ‘shroud’ is made from sections of alloy that are butt-welded and planished together, meaning it is very easily damaged, not to mention a prime candidate for being bodged back together with filler.

Chassis rails should appear straight when viewed along their length from the front of the car – any rippling or waviness suggests past accident damage. If the damage is severe enough, a replacement chassis may be required, so be wary. Chassis outriggers often suffer with corrosion. They support long sills, creating a perimeter chassis that is equally susceptible to rust, as is the entire bottom half of the bodywork.

ENGINE

Big Healey engines are modified Austin saloon units, meaning they’re solid lumps that last forever when properly maintained. Bored out to 2912cc for the 3000, the C-series exhibits typically 1950s characteristics – high oil consumption of up to a pint per 250 miles is common. Numerous minor oil leaks are also par for the course, but easily lived with until re-build time comes around. You’re ideally looking for oil pressure of 50psi when out on the open road, falling to 10-15psi at a hot idle. 

RUNNING GEAR

Steering boxes can wear badly, leading to poor steering performance – a re-build will usually improve things immeasurably. If the steering feels vague when on the move, try jacking the front of the car up and rocking each wheel top and bottom. The problem could be down to worn kingpins, which need greasing at every service. Suspension is also derived from contemporary Austin saloons, with double wishbones, coil springs and anti-roll bar up front, a live axle suspended on leaf springs out back, with a Panhard rod to keep side sway in check. The system was modified for the 3000 MkIII Phase II, replacing the Panhard rod with twin radius arms. The bushes in these can produce creaking noises, so keep an ear out on the test drive. 

INTERIOR

Today most owners favour all leather if a re-trim is required. If the interior is scruffy, it is possible to buy trim sets and seat covers, but if you bite the bullet and get your wallet out, you’ll see better results by farming the job out to a trim shop.

Hoods were originally made from Everflex vinyl, but some cars have now been fitted with mohair or double-duck instead.

OUR VERDICT

In common with many classics of the same era, you buy an Austin-Healey 3000 on its specification. Make sure it has the right parts for its age, as many have been messed around with over the years. Also, many 3000s have been re-imported to the UK, so be sure that any modifications have been carried out well – particularly right-hand drive conversions. With A-H specialists throughout the country, there’s no shortage of help – the only thing holding you back will be the size of your wallet.

AUSTIN-HEALEY 100/4 REVIEW

In the shadow of its younger brothers for many years, we reckon it’s time the 100/4 and its derivatives stepped into the light...

The first of the big Healeys was launched in 1952 at the London Motor Show after being developed by Donald Healey, who based his car on the Austin A90 Atlantic. Luckily for Healey, the new sports car impressed the Austin hierarchy, which immediately began building the car at Longbridge, alongside the A90. 

It used the same 2660cc four-cylinder engine as the Atlantic, but its svelte, aerodynamic shape allowed it to achieve 100mph – hence the ‘100’ moniker. 100M and 100S (above) versions are most desired, and 14,634 examples were built, before being replaced by the 100/6 in 1956.     

VITAL STATISTICS

Austin Healey 100/4

Engine                                    2660cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  90bhp@4000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 144lb ft@2000rpm

Top speed                                109mph

0-60mph                                  11.1sec

Consumption                           30mpg

Gearbox                                   4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

It is much more cost effective to repair or replace worn mechanicals than it is to correct poor bodywork, so it pays to buy the best example you can afford. 

It is also a good idea to consult a specialist before making a purchase, as the bodywork of the 100/4 is notoriously complex and known for hiding rot well. Being a soft top, the first thing you should check for is water ingress – make sure the carpets are dry and not discoloured. Inspect the foot wells, checking for any signs of rust, damp or shoddy repairs. Make sure you also check where the footwell meets the sills, before getting under the car to double-check the outer sills. Any signs of crustiness here should be taken as a warning sign – the inner sill is likely to be in much worse condition. Be suspicious of freshly applied underseal – it can be used to hide rot.

While checking the sills, take a look at the condition of the doors – they can be prone to rusting along the bottom. Even minor rust here can be a very expensive fix. Moving under the car again, make sure the front chassis rails are in good condition, especially where they meet the shroud. The boot floor can also be a weak point, so remember to lift the carpet and take a good look. 

ENGINE

Early BN1 models were fitted with exactly the same 2660cc four-cylinder engine as the Austin A90, mated to a three-speed manual gearbox. 100M models came on stream in 1955 and employed a cold air box, high-lift camshaft and higher compression ratio.  

Overall, these engines are incredibly tough and are capable of covering huge mileages, but a rebuild will be required eventually. Water has a habit of seeping between the head and block, so check the oil filler for signs of mayonnaise. Ideally, you’ll want this problem to have been addressed already – check for evidence in the service file. Ensure you check the oil level as well, as these engines are notoriously thirsty, sometimes using as much as one pint in only 250 miles. Listen for any knocks or clanging noises – it should run quietly and smoothly. Water channels in the engine are also prone to silting, and the same goes for the radiator. Fitting an electric fan can disguise overheating problems – best to look for prior proof of an engine strip to sort the problem.  

RUNNING GEAR

The 1950s steering box can be labour intensive to keep in fine form; quizzing the owner can often tell you more about how it has been cared for than a history file ever will.

It needs to be regularly topped up, and any vagueness can mean that an expensive rebuild is required. Don’t expect modern handling, though. 

On the test drive, pay particular attention to how the car rides. Sagging springs can make the car very low at the rear, while bushes and dampers tend to wear out quickly. If the ride is crashy or sloppy, you may need to budget for replacements. Polybushes are more expensive than you might think and can be tricky to fit.  

INTERIOR

All original seats will be leather, but most will have been retrimmed at this stage. Originality is prized, providing the condition matches. Leather can dry out easily, so look for signs that it has been fed and treated well over the years. Any damp seeping in through the roof can play havoc here, so again it is vital to check that the hood is sound. The seats can be uncomfortable, despite the Healey’s reputation for long distance touring. 

There isn’t too much to worry about on the electrics side of things – just check everything works. 

OUR VERDICT

An early Austin-Healey makes fantastic financial sense, with values sure to rise as the years roll by. When economists talk about classic cars being better than money in the bank people immediately think ‘E-type’ – but should consider a 100/4. Investment aside, a big Healey is a beautiful car with rock solid mechanicals that is endowed with beauty and proportions that are the envy of other classic cars. It’s the sort of car that your other half will fall in love with. 

AUSTIN-HEALEY FROGEYE SPRITE REVIEW

The car that went on to spawn generations of MG Midgets is now one of the most valuable examples of the breed. We assess one as a classic buy today...

It’s a little-known fact that the singlemost striking element of the Austin-Healey Sprite Mk1 – which gave the car its nick-name, in fact – was never intended to be there. Where the production car’s bulging headlights garnered it the world-famous ‘Frogeye’ moniker, BMC actually wanted the sort of flip-up headlights that would eventually appear on the Porsche 928. Budget constraints, however, saw them consigned to the cutting floor – and a legend was born.

VITAL STATISTICS

AUSTIN-HEALEY ‘FROGEYE’ SPRITE MK1

Engine                                     948cc/4-cyl/OHV 

Power (bhp@rpm)                   43bhp@4750rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                  52lb/ft@3300rpm

Top speed                                 83mph

0-60mph                                   21sec

Consumption                            43mpg

Gearbox                                    4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

The Frogeye was one of the first sports cars to sport monococque construction, so clearly any major body rot is not just going to be unsightly – potentially, it can be a complete deal-breaker.

As such, as well as all the usual places – arches, bonnet lip, etc. – check all the reinforcing box sections around the bulkheads, sills and jacking points – if there’s more frilly ferrous oxide here than metal, then only truly dedicated DIY restorers should proceed.

Close inspection of the enormous one-piece front is a must, too: the entire front end – bonnet, wings and front panel – lifts in one piece to afford access to the engine, so it’s regularly put under a lot of structural stress. Ensure the rear hinges and surrounding metalwork are sound. 

ENGINE

One of the major parameters for the Frogeye was always affordability – both for the buyer and for the manufacturer. To wit, the engine that nestles beneath that grinning front is a derivation of BMC’s venerable 948cc engine, which also did sterling service in the Austin A35 and Morris Minor.

And that’s good news, because engines don’t come much simpler than this. Performance was racked up to a dizzying 43bhp by the addition of twin SU carbs, although it’s not unheard of for Frogeyes to end up with a tuned Mini engine of some description – the 1275cc is the most popular – under the bonnet. This isn’t a problem in itself, although anything other than complete adherence to originality can have a detrimental effect on values.

Being of such simple design, major problems on well-maintained cars are rare, although the causes of any of the usual warning signs – blue smoke on the overrun, uneven idling, persistent cutting out, reluctance to run smoothly when hot – are usually very easy to trace.

RUNNING GEAR

The Frogeye’s steering and suspension were also lifted from the Morris Minor. Quarter elliptic rear springs and lever arm dampers don’t sound terribly exciting, but the addition of an upper radius arm above the rear axle virtually eliminated axle tramp. Anything other than ultra-alert handling, then, suggests that something is amiss.

Leaf spring breakage is common, as is rust both where the radius arms attach and around the spring location boxes on the rear bulkhead. Up front, worn damper bearings and kingpin bushes (these latter as a result of indifferent greasing) should always start alarm bells ringing.

Elsewhere, the differential is prone to oil leaks and halfshafts have a habit of breaking. The rack-and-pinion steering is reassuringly robust, though, with split gaiters the only known recurring problem.

INTERIOR

There’s not a great deal to the Frogeye’s interior, and while wear and tear to seats, carpets, etc. is inevitable, excellent aftermarket parts back-up means replacements – while hardly cheap – are reasonably plentiful.

Expect most of the wear to centre on the area behind the seats: exterior appearances notwithstanding, the Frogeye isn’t actually fitted with an opening bootlid, so luggage must be hauled in and out via the open area immediately behind the seats. Inevitably, then, wear and tear is accelerated here, although the fact that full replacement carpet sets are readily available for less than £120 means this isn’t a huge problem.

Elsewhere, wavering speedometer needles are common, but not the end of the world, although replacing a failed water temperature gauge can get expensive as the dial is combined with the oil pressure gauge, thereby effectively doubling the re-wiring job.

OUR VERDICT

Not for rarity, that’s for sure – only the run-out 1500 shifted more examples than the Frogeye. No, you buy a Frogeye for its laugh-out-loud handling and cheeky looks.

The former is dependant on the suspension and monococque being in good order, but the latter comes part of the package, irrespective of condition – those lights and that cheeky grille grin are near-impossible to resist.

AUDI TT REVIEW

Sporty, well-built and practical, the Audi TT MkI is now a great buy. 
 

It may be just 17 years since the first Audi TTs arrived, but the car's classic status was assured from the day it was unveiled as a concept at the 1995 Frankfurt motor show. Distinctive styling combines with hatchback practicality and excellent build quality to make it one of the most useable sportscars ever built. Throw in low purchase prices and you begin to question just how much you want that '60s roadster that'll cost you just as much to buy and run. 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Bodywork

With a fully galvanised bodyshell and excellent rustproofing, and TT that's showing signs of corrosion has been crashed then poorly repaired. If you're thinking of buying a crunched TT, all panels are available - and they're not as costly as you might think. However, repairing rear-end damage isn't easy because of the contours, but many of the front-end panels (such as the slam panel and wings) bolt on, so they're surprisingly easy to replace. Repairing the sills can be tricky though, as they're bonded and screwed.

Engines

The turbocharged 1.8-litre four-cylinder engine that powers most TTs is good for 200,000 miles is properly maintained, which means fresh oil is needed at least every 10,000 miles or 12 months. Many TTs come with variable servicing which allows up to two years or 19,000 miles between servicing - but even fully synthetic oil can be frazzled long before this, which is why that interim oil change is essential.

It's also worth replacing the timing belt, tensioners and water pump on four-cylinder cars every 60,000 miles or four years, even though Audi specified an 80,000-mile schedule. The belts tend to snap at 65-80,000 miles, often after the belt-driven water pump has seized. The results is an engine beyond economical repair, with replacement used powerplants typically around £2500 fitted. Expect to pay around £400 for the belt, tensioners and water pump to be renewed, if done by an independent specialist. If you're quoted closer to £300, it's probably to replace the belt only - which can be a false economy.

The 1.8T engine can also suffer from failure of the air mass sensors; expect to pay a specialist around £200 to fix this.
When the TT was new, the 1.8T engine famously went through a period of the coil packs failing, leading to cars off the road because of replacement shortages. While spares are now plentiful, the problem persists, so check for misfiring. New coil packs cost around £30 apiece.

The 3.2 V6 doesn't have belt-driven camshafts, but from as little as 40,000 miles the timing chain can start to rattle due to stretching or worn tensioners. Hooking up the ECU to a diagnostics machine will give the game away. Repairs mean removing the engine, costing anywhere between £1500 and £2200 depending on which parts are replaced. Because both the chain and tensioners are weak spots, it's best to replace everything while the engine is apart - which is when that £2200 bill becomes a reality.

Transmissions

Early TTs came with five or six-speed manual gearboxes only, then later came the option of Audi's brilliant dual-clutch transmission dubbed DSG (Direct Shift Gearbox). Manual boxes are incredibly strong, while clutches will last anywhere between 50,000 and 100,000 miles depending on driving style.
The DSG boxes aren't always so durable though, so look for a permanently lit or flashing red gear indicator on the dash - quizzing the ECU will also throw up a fault code. While the transmission itself usually lasts pretty well, the Mechatronic control unit tends to fail eventually, leading to jerky gearchanges, a reluctance to engage gear or an intermittent lack of drive. Repaired Mechatronic units are available from the TT shop, for around £1200. New items are £1800, or £2200 fitted.
Most TTs feature Audi's brilliant quattro four-wheel drive transmission, although some low-powered Roadsters came with a front-wheel drive option. Europe got a 148bhp FWD coupe too, but not the UK.
Contrary to popular belief, the TT's quattro drivetrain doesn't provide permanent four-wheel drive. An array of sensors feed the Haldex control unit, which activates a clutch to send power to the rear wheels when necessary. This control unit can fail, so no power is fed to the rear wheels; if this happens, the car's ECU will result in a fault code. Also, the Haldex unit in the quattro drivetrain needs an oil change every 20,000 miles. Expect to pay £70 to get this done, while every 40,000 miles you'll pay around £120 for an oil and filter change.  
 

Steering and suspension

The TT isn't a light car, which takes its toll on the suspension. It's likely that the bushes will have seen better days, especially on hard-driven cars. Usually only one or two will need to be replaced though; expect a bill of £100-200 to get the work done. Rear springs and shock absorbers can also prove weak, the latter being prone to breaking. New springs cost £80 each, while shock absorbers are £174 per pair. While you're underneath, also check the anti-roll bar links, which can corrode then break. Replacement links are £25 each, and new rubber mounts cost just £2.50 apiece.

Wheels and brakes

All TTs sit on alloy wheels, aftermarket ones are popular but quality can be variable. Make sure that whatever is fitted is made to a decent standard, as cheap rims can suffer from buckling and cracks. Check for corrosion and kerbing as original factory wheels can cost up to £500 each.
You may find the TT underbraked, even though it features ventilated discs all round (non-quattro cars got solid rear discs). Fitting harder pads at the front is a good start for £100 or so. But if you want some really reassuring anchors, fit a Brembo braking system in the nose for £1200. You could convert to V6 stoppers for half of this, but even though the discs are larger they're not as efficient.

Trim and electrics  

If you're buying a Roadster, check the hood, as a replacement costs £1000 just for the outer fabric. If the whole thing needs replacing (which is unlikely,as they're very well-made) the final bill including the frame and labour could add up to £5000 - although a bill of closer to £1800 is more likely. the TT Shop hasn't had to replace one yet, but if there's damage, it'll cost plenty to fix. Incidentally, the heated glass rear window is integral with the hood. If it's damaged, the whole lot has to be renewed.
Check every single electrical item from lighting to stereo, especially on an earlier car. Glitches are common and cures can be hard to effect. The TT 180 and TT 150 didn't get xenon lights as standard. They're worth having as they're much brighter than the halogen units, but if they fail, replacement costs are high. If you don't know what's fitted, the xenon lights come with washer nozzles in the bumper. 
 

OUR VERDICT

Collectors are already emerging for the TT. Pick of the bunch is the quattro Sport which came in Coupe form only and features an uprated (237bhp) 1.8T engine, Recaro seats and sportier suspension. It's also 75kg lighter. If you want some fun on the cheap, any manual 1.8T variant will suffice; the 3.2 V6 is thirstier, generally less reliable and more costly to maintain.
Why do you want one? Firstly, there's that amazing styling. Barely changed from the concept that sired it, the TT still looks futuristic two decades after it was first seen as a design study, but this Bauhaus-inspired machine is one of the most usable two-seaters around. The coupe is more spacious than you'd expect, and all models are solidly built and good at staving off corrosion.
DIY maintenance isn't always easy, but there are plenty of independent specialists who can keep a TT going, so running costs needn't be exorbitant - certainly a lot less than most other sports cars. 

Audi TT

AUDI 80 REVIEW

The key to the success of the second generation (B2) Audi 80 lay in its ability to comfortably swallow up a small family and their associated paraphernalia. Happily, it could do this while still offering reasonable performance and good economy, soon earning a good name for itself both at home and abroad.

Although Audi tried hard to distance the 80 from the reworked Volkswagen Passat, they nonetheless shared a large amount of components, but that was no bad thing – the new 80 was a thoroughly decent car.

Following the pattern laid down by the first generation 80, the range comprised of two and four door saloon versions as well as an optional coupe, with Audi deciding against offering an estate. The 1978 line-up used a 1588cc four-cylinder, overhead-camshaft powerplant borrowed from Volkswagen that was available in three stages of tune, with the range topping fuel-injection model boasting 110bhp. Trim levels came in three different types initially, with the bottom of the range LS and mid-level GLS nestling just below the marquee-spec GLE.

Over the course of its production life, the 80 was also fitted with enlarged 1781cc engines (as used in the VW Golf GTI, but mounted longitudinally), before reaching it’s zenith with the 2.2 litre, 5-cylinder lump as seen in the coupe variant, a development of which also propelled the awesome quattro rally car.  A 1.6 turbo-diesel was also available, though it wasn’t hugely popular due to its inherent sluggishness, the net result of which is that oil-burning examples are somewhat scarce today. The 80 was an unprecedented success for Audi, proving a mainstay of the companies production up until 1995, by then in fourth generation (B4) guise. Even today’s A4 is a progression in a long line that began with the 80.

VITAL STATISTICS

AUDI 80 B2 (1978-1986)

Engine 1994cc 5-cylinder SOHC
Power 115bhp @ 5400rpm
Torque 122lb/ft @ 5400
Top Speed 114mph
0-60mph 9.7sec
Gearbox 4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

Even though Audi only began galvanising the 80 when B3 production began, the pre-86 models still have an excellent reputation for keeping corrosion at bay. The key here is how well a car has been looked after; bear in mind that even the youngest examples are 23 years old, so if they have been neglected then they will rust just as freely as most other cars from the era. Particular areas to examine closely include the door bottoms, front wings, rear arches and around the headlamps and windscreen, as well as the edges of both bonnet, bottom of the A pillar, scuttle panel, boot floor and boot-lid. It’s also worth popping the bonnet and checking the state of the front suspension strut towers, which are not easy to replace if particularly crusty. As the front wings are bolt-on items, it’s imperative that you take time to have a good luck at where they meet the inner wheel-arches, especially around the bolt holes themselves.

The sills on 80s were given a comprehensive anti-corrosion treatment at the factory, which you should be able to feel as a very rough finish under the paintwork. Beware though of cars that have been glossed over prior to selling on – certainly you want to give both the inner and outer sills a thorough inspection regardless of their outward appearance. Watch for stiff/awkward door handles; these were not made from the best material in the world and can break easily. Replacement parts can be obtained either from Poland via eBay, or specialists like GSF.

ENGINE

Given that the 80 emanated from the giant Volkswagen/Audi stable, there are no real horror stories relating to these tough old units. Whatever the displacement, they are strong and reliable, providing they have been properly maintained. After 100,000 miles the valve stem oil seals and valve guides can deteriorate; blue exhaust smoke is a reliable tell-tale that this has occurred so watch carefully when inspecting a prospective purchase. Excessive oil consumption is also a sign that the engine may be due for some top end work. If high-mileage examples are suffering from low compression and lumpy tickover, then the exhaust valves are likely to have begun to burn out. Another thing to check is the cam-belt. They need changing every 60,000 miles too, so has it been done recently?

Good maintenance is also the key to the 80’s fuel system: The Bosch fuel injection should remain free of concern as long as it’s filters are changed regularly as part of routine servicing. Only if the car is presenting a high-speed misfire should you have to worry about forking out for a replacement control unit. Carburettor-fed cars may suffer from problems with their auto-choke, which can stick on, but this is relatively easily rectified. The Pierburg 2E2 Carburettor can be a pain to set up, and many examples have been converted to Weber carburettor.

TRANSMISSION

Gearboxes are robust, coming in both four and five-speed varieties, although the synchromesh on the latter is weaker.  Worn shaft bearings can result in an annoying transmission whine, but this is not a sign that the final drive has broken up. You should check for leaks around the driveshaft seals, as well as ensuring the front driveshaft gaiters are free from stone damage. If they haven’t been renewed for a while they may have become brittle, allowing lubricant to escape. Finally, if the clutch itself feels stiff when you activate it, that is not necessarily a reason to worry – this is a trait common to older Audis and doesn’t mean the clutch is faulty.

SUSPENSION & BRAKES

Suspension is typical Audi, with struts and coil springs at the front and dead axle at the rear, located by trailing arms and Panhard rods. Front top mounts can be prone to wearing out, along with front wishbone bushes- particularly on the larger engine cars. These are a relatively straight forward DIY job with the necessary tools, and specialists can provide these parts for around £8 each (top mounts) and £4 each (wishbone bushes – 2 per side). Check the rear brakes are working as expected – drum brakes on the rear use a load compensating valve located close to the offside rear wheel. Replacement of the brake lines can prove tricky when trying to fit the pipes into this.

INTERIOR

Higher-spec models came with a raft of extras such as a sunroof, electric windows and central locking, the condition of which is worth taking into account before buying. Replacement electrical parts are available but can be expensive if they are only available from Audi themselves. Interior trim is difficult to obtain, and seat bolsters (particularly drivers side) can sag or wear through. If anything is required then sourcing a donor vehicle would be your best bet though. Thankfully little goes wrong with these old 80s however, so you shouldn’t necessarily let a few niggles be a deal-breaker.

VERDICT

The answer to your question would seem to be in the affirmative. If you can look past the slightly staid exterior, the 80 is actually quite an appealing prospect. If you compare it to an equivalent BMW 3 Series then it just makes so much sense, offering as it does the same Germanic virtues as its Bavarian rival, but costing a whole lot less due to it’s somewhat dour image. Maintenance and repair falls into the relatively simple bracket, most mechanical parts are readily available and there are ious clubs just waiting for you to join. Most of all, they’re actually getting quite rare in B2 guise, so if you’re looking to drive something a little bit different then the Audi 80 could well be the car for you.

AUDI 100 COUPÉ REVIEW

The Audi 100 Coupé makes for a hugely underrated gem. Here's why...

When was the last time you saw a C1-series Audi 100 Coupé S? Not recently, we’d bet. Less than 3200 made it onto the UK market and, of those, fewer than 50 are thought to have survived. In terms of rarity, this is up there with the Iso Grifo and Aston Martin DBS it so closely resembles.

It matches the Grifo and DBS in terms of lounge-lizard looks, too. Back in 1973, when the car in our photos was first registered, it was considered to be little more than an overpriced Volkswagen lookalike, but today the car has matured into a svelte, hunkered-down GT that carries with it more than a whiff of 1960s Mustang. Simply put, it’s absolutely stunning, especially with our test example’s vivid metallic blue paint and delicate chrome. 

Enough gawping. We need to go for a drive. Grasp the substantial chrome door handle, thumb the equally jumbo-sized push-button beneath and haul open the large, heavy door before stepping down into a world of 1970s Teutonic splendour.

Sink into the vast blue driver’s seat and pause awhile to drink in the details the almost comically huge steering wheel, the wood trim that calls to mind the teak you used to get on ’70s music centres, the Size 10 organ pedal throttle, and the quartet of green-on-black dials garnished with bright orange needles. Push the ignition key into the slot to the left of the steering column and the 1.9-litre fourcylinder engine coughs into life before settling into a slightly offbeat thrum that carries a vague timbre of the quattro’s trademark fivecylinder burble that would follow years later.

Then you go to snap your seatbelt into place, and puzzle over the apparently broken set-up missing its metal buckle. The penny drops…the Germans did things differently back then. Instead of a buckle, you loop the belt into a snap-jaw mechanism bolted to the floor. Well, it’s better than nothing…    The gearshift is one of few chinks in the 100’s armour – the throw is very long and rather vague, and each gear hits home with an indistinct slush rather than a rifle-bolt click – but the 1.9-litre ‘four’ is a little honey that punches well above its weight.

The long-winded gearbox takes the sporting edge off the car, but the engine delivers a hardedged engine note as the revs rise, and there’s an impressive amount of feedback through that Ark Royal tiller of a steering wheel.

Handling is on the soft side, but there is an almost boundless supply of grip. The rearwheel drive chassis feels surprisingly lively, given that it’s a simple live axle; no doubt the rear end becomes quite entertaining in the wet.
As a consummate cruiser, however, the Audi impresses, despite its lack of a fifth gear. While 118lb ft of torque doesn’t sound like much, it comes on song at a relatively lowly 3500rpm, meaning motorway overtakes rarely require a drop down into a lower gear. 

Audi 100 Trivia

• Just over 30,600 100 Coupés were sold during the C1’s production cycle. Its UK price at launch was a whopping £2418.
• All 100 Coupés were fitted with an advanced (for the time) brake stabilisation system that claimed to eliminate skids and unruly pulling to one side.
• There is a UK club dedicated specifically to the Audi 100 Coupé S.
• It is generally agreed that cars built up to 1973 used a higher grade of steel than those built from 1974 onwards.
• The 1.9-litre engine in well-maintained cars routinely covers more than 100,000 miles without a rebuild, with 150,000-milers by no means unheard of.

AUDI COUPÉ REVIEW

Launched in 1981, and closely related to the groundbreaking Quattro, here’s a sporting choice that’s still temptingly cheap.

The Audi Coupé was a welcome new addition to the UK new car price lists in March 1981. Its slightly upscale price of £7475 might have put it in direct competition with more powerful rivals, such as the 3.0-litre Ford Capri and BMW 323i – but with its Quattro-esque styling, and all the kudos that came with it, and the whiff of imported exclusivity that was still attached to Audi in the early 1980s, here was a car that offered a unique set of qualities in the coupé battlefield.

Heart of the Coupé’s appeal was its off-beat, non-turbo five-cylinder engine, which originally was available in 1921cc carburetted form, developing 115bhp. You either loved its warbling soundtrack or you were disturbed by it.

The range was quickly developed in two directions – in 1983, a more potent 2.2-litre 136bhp five-pot was introduced, and the following year, arrival of the facelifted model was marked by the addition of an 1.8-litre entry level. Improvements included new bumpers, and a softer, more aerodynamic grille to complement its new higher quality dashboard and switchgear.

Also new in ‘84 was arrival of the four-wheel drive Quattro version – and that proved highly popular in the UK, despite its high price. The Coupé remained on sale until 1988, by which time an impressive 174,687 had been built.

VITAL STATISTICS

(GT5E)

Engine     2226cc/5-cyl/OHC

Power      136bhp@5700rpm

Torque     137lb ft@3500rpm

Maximum speed 120mph

0-60mph9.1sec

Fuel consumption   26-34mpg

Transmission        FWD, five-spd manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Four cylinders good

The 8V 112bhp 1.8-litre Audi Coupé’s engine was donated from the Volkswagen Golf GTI, and is, therefore, a well known quantity. It’s strong and well respected, and as long as the cambelt is changed every four years or 40,000 miles, and the oil changes have been religiously adhered to on at least an annual basis, don’t be afraid of odometer readings of more than 150,000.

Five cylinders better

Like the four-cylinder version, the top of the range Coupés prove strong and reliable over huge mileages. They are sensitive to regular oil changes, and if the hydraulic tappets are noisy, that’s a sign it’s been less than rigorously maintained.  

Cooling critical

The five-cylinder Coupé has quite a small side-mounted radiator, and cooling capacity can be marginal. Make sure there are no signs of previous overheating, and that the fan cuts in at temperature. Also, it’s advised to do a full coolant change at least once every two years, as the waterways can clog up. Also water pumps aren’t that long-lived – five years on average. 

Corrosion is a killer

Unlike later galvanised Audis, the Coupé can rot like an Alfasud on a trip to Blackpool. Vulnerable areas are the boot floor, thanks to a leaking bootlid, the windscreen surround, and there can be issues with the front strut tops, too. Later models have plastic sill extensions, so check closely for hidden grot behind them. 

Quattro maladies

The four-wheel drive system deserves a buying guide all to itself, and although it’s rugged and long-lived, it’s not infallable. Watch out for whining differentials, and driveline clonks – these are easy tell-tales that all is not well. Walk away if there’s uneven tyre wear, or mismatched brands are fitted.

Don’t get caught short

The main concern with these cars is that so many parts are simply no longer available. So don’t shrug off a cracked headlamp or bumper, because you’ll be searching hard for a replacement. The same is true inside – and although most switchgear and fittings are reliable, they are nigh-on irreplaceable. Seat trim is the same – it wears out on the bolsters and you can’t replace it. 

OUR VERDICT

Forgetting the whole ‘Fire up the Quattro’ phenomenom, which is ancient history now, here’s a car that combines fabulous oh-so 1980s styling, rugged mechanicals, charismatic power units, the option of four-wheel drive, and a surprising amount of interior room.

If you’re expecting sports car thrills, then be prepared to be slightly disappointed. The Coupé’s steering is a little on the remote side, and the handling feels a bit saloon-like (unsurprising, considering it’s so closely related to the 80). And even in the most powerful 2.2-litre fuel injected form, none of them is particularly quick – instead you could be generous and say ‘brisk’. 

Prices of good Coupés are picking up after too many years in secondhand-land, but they are still good value compared with the more exotic (in classic terms) Ford Capri or Volkswagen Scirocco. And as for ownership, it could be argued that the more mature Audi trumps both of those alternatives.

Our pick of the range would definitely be a pre-facelift 2.2-litre GT 5E, although the later interior is a far nicer place to sit. But any one will give you many years of classic enjoyment.

TVR TUSCAN V6 REVIEW

The first TVR to bear the Tuscan name may be as pretty as it is rare, but it packs a serious punch. We consider what to look for when buying one of these powerful sports cars today

Parts-bin trim includes tail lights from a Mk II Ford Cortina

The long overdue replacement for the Grantura caused quite a stir. Previous models had never packed anything more powerful than a Coventry Climax, Ford or BMC four-cylinder engine. So finding a 195bhp 4.7-litre V8 (more than 270bhp on some US-market cars) that could push the little car all the way to 155mph and, on later models, a 136bhp V6 that could top 125mph, proved too much of a handful for some buyers, and the Vixen that replaced it reverted to four-cylinder power. 

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine                                    2994cc/6-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  134bhp@4750rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 173lb ft@3000rpm

Top speed                                125mph

0-60mph                                   8.3sec

Consumption                           N/A

Gearbox                                    4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

The Tuscan uses a GRP body that is obviously impervious to rust, but crazing or cracking in the gelcoat is a sure sign of previous accident damage that hasn’t been repaired properly – quite a common problem on these often tricky- to-handle little cars, and especially the V8. The tubular steel chassis can rot with the best of them, though, so make sure you take a peek underneath.

Build quality was never a strong point with these cars, and while most survivors are likely have been subjected to a proper restoration by now, check for mile-wide panel gaps and missing trim. This latter model isn’t quite so much of a problem, as many of the trim items are shared with other, more mainstream cars – rear lights are shared with the Mk II Ford Cortina, for example.

ENGINE

Tuscan power came courtesy of some seriously potent engines, and both the V6 and V8 are extremely tough units that can withstand huge mileages with proper maintenance.

The 4.7-litre (289ci) Windsor V8 is closely related to the engine used in early Mustangs, and is as bulletproof as any other small-block V8. The V6, meanwhile, is Ford’s familiar and easy to work on 3.0-litre Essex, as seen in both the Zodiac and Capri among many other models. Both engines have plenty of tuning potential and huge parts back-up.

Common faults on maltreated cars include worn valve guides and/or piston rings (look out for oily exhaust smoke). Poor or erratic idling is often as a result of a damaged distributor or contact breaker points, while excessive under-bonnet heat can cause fuel vaporisation, making an aftermarket electric fan
a wise investment.

RUNNING GEAR

One area where the V6 and V8 cars do differ noticeably is in terms of their brakes. Where the V6 used front discs and rear drums, the V8’s greater power warranted better stopping power in the guise of all-round disc brakes.

Make sure that the suspension is up to scratch, too – even the rare longer wheelbase models can oversteer seemingly at will in unpractised hands, so tired dampers and worn track-rod ends will simply make matters worse. Get any prospective purchase up onto a lift and have a good poke around. Better still, get a marque expert to do it for you.

Gearboxes have proved strong over the years, although any car that has seen hillclimb or track day use may well be suffering from weakened synchromesh by now, with the upshift into second particularly prone to related crunching.

INTERIOR

This is where you need to be particularly vigilant when assessing a prospective purchase, as the TVR trim build quality has never entirely inspired confidence.

One of the biggest issues concerns cabin ventilation, which can be average-to-poor on both models, but particularly problematic on the V8s, which generate an enormous amount of heat. It was a problem when the cars were new, and short of expensive and/or Heath Robinson-ish attempts to remedy the situation by previous owners, you’ll probably just have to put up with it.

These cars are very popular with the motor sport fraternity, so cars in wholly original condition aren’t always easy to find, especially given their general rarity. If a car has spent time on-track, then bucket seats, re-trimmed dashboards, different steering wheels and similar modifications may compromise
a cosy cockpit, so do make sure you fit inside!

OUR VERDICT

This era of Tuscan was still under the remit of TVR legend Martin Lilley, so they’re considered among the best of the breed by marque aficionados. They’re also very pretty, very rare (just 174 models were sold from 1967-1971) and pack a ferocious punch. The thunderous V8s, in particular, are almost absurdly fast, if prone to snap oversteer.

VAUXHALL 14/40 REVIEW

The new 14/40 2.3-litre 'M' Type of 1922 was introduced alongside the 4-litre 'D' Type touring car and the 4 1/2-litre E-Type 30/98. In its initial form, the 14/40 was essentially a modern design with detachable cylinder head, three-speed in-unit gearbox, single plate clutch and both pairs of brakes on the rear wheels only. Vauxhalls were intended to be enjoyed by owners who simply enjoyed serious motoring in well-engineered and capable cars.

VAUXHALL 30/98 REVIEW

After the first World War when the Vauxhall 30/98 resumed production, there simply was nothing else on the road that was faster in 1920. Initially introduced as the E-type with a side-valve 4,500cc engine and just rear wheel brakes, the later OE type had a 4.25-litre engine, the swift introduction of front wheel brakes soon afterwards contributing more worthwhile braking capacity to console the faster driver. The king of all sporting vintage cars and fairly described as a gentleman's fast touring car, a total of 111 of the Vauxhall chassis were produced in 1924, the most for any year the model was produced. Paradoxically however, three out of every five produced were sold in Australia.

VAUXHALL 23/60 REVIEW

Synonymous with high quality touring cars and the finest sporting cars, Vauxhall was on a par with Bentley and Sunbeam. In 1922 a new detachable cylinder head was introduced with dramatic improvements for the new OD and OE models, including pushrod overhead valves. The 23/60 is a delightful and practical tourer, of impeccable Edwardian ancestry, surviving in production until 1926 when the Luton company was taken over by General Motors. The Kington tourer body was offered on both the D and OD models, a style not dissimilar to the Velox 30/98 body, but more spacious, at 10' 10'' wheelbase, to the 30/98's 9' 9 1/2'', with 65mph from the 4-litre engine which developed a respectable 60bhp at a leisurely 2000rpm.