VOLKSWAGEN POLO G40 REVIEW

Brimming with poke and power, the G40 proved that Volkswagen's diminuitive Polo could fight it out with the hot-hatch greats...

The Polo had long been established as a sensible, reliable and well-made supermini before the G40 was introduced in 1991. The Polo range had received a facelift in 1990 – bringing its looks bang up to date. The G40 took this further, with BBS alloys and a wider body. It looked how hot hatches wanted to look in the 1990s – it was the aspirational Polo, a car people lusted after - and deservedly so. 116bhp powering a three-door body weighing just 830kg was always going to be fun, and the whine from the supercharger is as delightful as it is addictive. The sharp handling cemented its status is hot hatch royalty.

In the late 2000s, when the car was at its lowest price, many were modified and even some were scrapped. Now, an appreciating car, it’s the time to buy the little supercharged bundle of madness and use it how it was intended.

VITAL STATISTICS

ENGINE                      1272cc/4-cyl/SOHC

POWER                       116bhp@6000rpm

TORQUE                     111lb ft@3800rpm

MAXIMUM SPEED     121mph

0-60MPH                    9.0sec

ECONOMY                  31-35mpg

TRANSMISSION         FWD, five-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Super duper charger

A rebuild of the supercharger is recommended every 30-40,000 miles, which costs between £200- 400, worth baring in mind when buying one. Failed bearings are the biggest issue, worn oil seals will leave a lot of oil in the boost hoses (particularly the boost return, which comes out of the top of the throttle body), worn apex seals cause a slight loss of boost but can eventually come out of their grooves and cause a mess.

Supercharger whine

As rebuilds are a common affair, it's not unusual for the supercharger to be ported for better airflow while it's apart. None of that is problematic, but be wary if the pulley is smaller than 65mm. The supercharger tensions the alternator/charger belt, and it takes a lot of tension to avoid belt slip on a small pulley.

Only fuels and hoses

If the supercharger has been modified, fuel lines need changing accordingly. If it’s recently had a new line fitted, that’s good. If not, then renew it just to be safe – get the injectors checked. Some modified cars require super unleaded fuel – ask the previous owners about this.

Rust – where to look

Rust affects Polos in different ways. Earlier models are more prone to it, with pre-‘94 cars especially bad.  They often suffer from rotten battery trays; so don't be surprised if it's had a repair. There's a seam along both sills, which is frequently damaged by careless trolley jacking, so check that. Otherwise, the windscreen frame, bottoms of the wings and the panel behind the filler neck are susceptible too.

Gearbox vulnerability

G40 gearboxes are weak and most would have had a replacement at some point. There are plenty of cars with the five-speed gearbox from a 1.3 SPI Polo, which has similar ratios. The gearbox code is on the top of the bell housing, on the flat bit of metal next to the plastic bung for the clutch inspection hole. Originality isn’t everything with these cars, but the original ATV gearbox is more desirable – good ‘boxes start from £250.

Has it got the right bits?

The grille (G40) and tailgate (Polo_G40) badges are obsolete and trade for a lot of money, and there's a good market for the black Volkswagen roundels too. View it as desirable if they're all present and correct. The same is true for the gutter trims on each side of the roof. They're obsolete, and get brittle with age so are near impossible to remove neatly from a scrap car. The black roof lining is a nightmare to remove and replace, too, so check that's in good condition. The G40 is the only Polo to have a 160mph speedometer. If you're looking at a car with a 120mph speedometer, then it's worth questioning why.

Air filter nightmares

Foam air filters are a definite no-no on a G40. The foam can lose small pieces, which cause all sorts of damage to the supercharger. Cotton air filters are fine (drop-in, or bolt-on) and are quite common.

Accident damage

Check for twists as a sign of an accident on the chassis legs and look at the area directly under the expansion tank to see if it's cracked. Although this is more common on heavily modified cars, it has been known for standard ones to crack the chassis leg too.

OUR VERDICT

The Volkswagen Polo was a luxury good, an item of want rather than that of necessity. It’s possible the buying public of 1991 wasn’t ready for a supercharged Polo – VW only sold 616 in its first four years in the UK. It’s that rarity, teamed with the overall driving experience that makes it so alluring in 2015. Hot hatches are like fine wines – they get better with age. If you find a G40 that’s been well looked after, has had minor modifications made to it and it’s priced keenly, you’ll be on your way to owning a brilliant, rare and usable every day classic.

Volkswagen Polo

VOLKSWAGEN GOLF MK1 REVIEW

Introduced in 1974, the MK1's Golf combined sharp and refreshingly modern styling with peppy water-cooled engines. The range benefited from light weight and direct steering, combined with innovative suspension, resulting in masses of driving enjoyment regardless of the engine size. Buyers fell over themselves to get their hands on the newcomer, with over 2,000,000 Golfs finding homes in the first four years of production alone. In 1978 VW finally killed off Beetle production in Germany, safe in the knowledge that it had a winning replacement on its hands. 

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine                                    1588cc/4-cyl/SOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  110bhp@6100rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 103lb ft@5000rpm

Top speed                                110mph

0-60mph                                  9sec

Consumption                            27mpg

Gearbox                                    5-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
Mk1’s were never galvanised from new, so key areas to examine include the bottom of the A-pillar below the front windscreen and under windscreen rubbers. Rust here is bad news, as it’s usually structural and very difficult to repair to a decent standard. Sunroof cars need checking extra carefully, as rust there is tricky to fix.

Wheelarches are another problem area, particularly on GTI models – they are often hiding rust beneath their plastic arch spats. 

If rear arches are rusty then check if the crustiness has spread underneath the car, as it could affect the suspension mountings – another nasty job to rectify. Front arches are part of the wings and an easier fix however. The fuel filler pipe can also rot, so if the pipe itself is rusty, then walk away. When rust finds it way into the tank and on through the fuel lines then real problems occur, particularly on GTis, as the sensitive Bosch K-Jetronic fuel injection system will be irrevocably damaged by any debris that finds it way inside.

ENGINE

Engines are generally tough, but most Mk1s will have done well over 100,000 miles now, so tired units are common. The engine block is rarely a problem, with the exception of the piston rings – any serious wear is most likely to be in the head itself. If there is a puff of smoke on start up, then the valve stem oil seals most
likely need replacing, smoke on the overrun is symptomatic of worn valve guides, while a plume of smoke under acceleration indicates worn piston rings. The camshaft belt needs replacing every 70,000 miles. Check the belt’s idler pulley at the same time, as worn idlers can seize. 

Worn second gear synchromesh is a common weak point with gearboxes, revealing itself as a ‘crunch’ when changing up quickly from first to second, particularly when starting from cold. Sometimes first gear – plus fifth on five-speeders – can become difficult to engage. This is due to the alignment having shifted rather than the gearbox itself. A simple adjustment will often make a big difference. A sloppy gearshift can usually be revived with new bushes. Tired and worn engine mounts are common on these cars, so listen for any clunks when taking up drive. 

RUNNING GEAR

Mk1's brakes are notoriously unimpressive, but replacing the original solid discs with grooved items will help improve matters. The automatic adjusters on rear drums are close to useless and are best attended to by turning the mechanism via a wheel stud hole. Front suspension is adjustable for camber, so if the tyres are unevenly worn, then something could be amiss there. Tired dampers are best replaced with gas items, while new front strut top mounts are best sourced from VW themselves. 

NTERIOR

Upholstery and trim can be tricky to get hold of, so buy the best car you can in that regard. Many interior parts are no longer available from Volkswagen, so if you’re looking at a car that has issues interior-wise then you must factor this into your thinking. 

OUR VERDICT

If you’re after a stylish, sharp-suited little runabout to potentially use all year round, then look no further. Whatever model you go for, it will be more than capable of taking on daily driver duties and general domestic errands, but still provide lashings of fun when the working day is done – particularly the ubiquitous GTI models. The trick is getting hold of one that hasn’t rusted away completely.

ASTON MARTIN VIRAGE REVIEW

Searching for a prime slice of British Beef? The Aston Martin Virage should tick all the boxes... 

Time waits for no-one, not even much-loved British supercar manufacturers, and whatever the machismo appeal of Aston Martin’s V8 saloon and Volante convertible of the Seventies and Eighties, nobody could deny that the oft-cash-strapped marque was falling behind its rivals by keeping the Sixties shape in production. Imagine Ferrari still building the Daytona or Lamborghini its Espada as the Eighties drew to a close?

So, when better finances finally allowed Newport Pagnell the opportunity to think about replacement rather than just constant updating of the old V8, the long overdue result in 1988 was both radical and special. The Aston Martin Virage was a thorough reworking of the V8 engine with a bold and brutal new body on top, which drew much praise for its timeless looks and muscular appearance. Retaining much of the V8’s existing chassis but making the engine even more potent kept the traditional feel but added extra fury to what had gone before, reminding owners – both current and potential – that Aston Martin was still one of the world’s greatest supercar builders. What’s not to get excited about...? 

Shown at the 1988 Birmingham Motor Show in Coupe form, with first deliveries in 1990, the sensational new Aston Martin Virage re-stated its forerunner's muscular looks in the modern idiom, slightly narrower but with increased interior space. With 330bhp, a top speed approaching 160mph was possible and 60mph in under 7 seconds. By 1990 the Virage Volante was announced, with first deliveries in 1992/3. Meanwhile Aston Martin's Works Service had developed and produced a high performance version of the Virage Coupe equipped with a host of upgrades to improve the overall performance still further. The '6.3 litre package' consisted of an engine rebuilt to 6.3-litres with power rising to 465bhp and over 170mph (274kph). Front and rear suspension was uprated, with Racing Group 'C' AP anti-lock brakes, Goodyear 285/45/ZR18 tyres, and flared wide-arches to accommodate. The total package could cost in excess of £50,000. As Virage Volante production continued, some cars were specified from new with elements of the 6.3 package.

ASTON MARTIN DB2

The Aston Martin DB2/4 makes for classic car motoring even the gods would be proud of. Here's why you want one... 

The Aston Martin DB2/4 is an expensive car designed to cater for the connoisseur of sports cars who is not limited by financial considerations' so wrote the The Autocar, October 2, 1953. Widening the appeal of the DB2, the DB2/4 from October 1953 had four-seats for the sportscar enthusiast with family, created by adding two occasional folding rear seats and raising the roof line, the resulting flat deck and opening rear door creating possibly the earliest form of hatchback. Modifications to the rear of the chassis plus a reduction in fuel tank capacity from 19 to 17 gallons also contributed to the liberation of enough space for the extra seats. A one-piece windscreen replaced the split-screen and a full set of bumpers were also provided. Standard specification included the 125bhp 2.6-litre twin OHC 'W.O. Bentley' engine, but from 1954 the larger bore 3-litre 140bhp engine was installed, providing 118mph top speed and 60mph in around 11 seconds. The Aston Martin DB2/4 was one of the fastest cars then built in Great Britain - with 100mph in third gear and around 120mph maximum - with impeccable handling plus a level of comfort then rare in any high-performance car.

VOLVO 1800E REVIEW

Sporting attractive coupé bodywork with trademark sturdy mechanicals underneath, the Volvo 1800E changed the motoring public’s view of the Swedish marque

Volvo had always been known for a focus on safety rather than speed, so it came as a bit of a surprise when it unveiled the Volvo P1800 in 1960 at the Brussels Motor Show, a sleek and sporty car that would go on to become a star of the silver screen driven by Roger Moore in The Saint. The PV544 that preceded it did have sporting pretensions and was used extensively in rallying, but it didn’t have the same sex appeal as the lower and more attractive P1800. It did have a strong engine though, and it was this 1778cc B18 design that powered the P1800, followed by the 1986cc B20. It’s beginnings were not as smooth as its waist lines, as Volkswagen forbade coachbuilder Karmann from producing the P1800, for fear of Volvo’s car offering too much competition to its own products. A rocky period followed, but the Swedish firm eventually struck a deal with Jensen, who agreed to use its under-utilised production facilities at Linwood and West Bromwich to build 10,000 P1800s. In the end only 6000 cars were made by Jensen, with 4500 destined for the export market.

VITAL STATISTICS

Volvo 1800E

Engine                                    1986cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  130bhp@6000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 130lb ft@3500rpm

Top speed                                115mph

0-60mph                                  9sec

Consumption                            25mpg 

Gearbox                                    4-spd manual + Overdrive

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
A quick way to gauge the state of an 1800 is to check the sills. The correct Volvo curved sill assembly has two noticeable vertical grooves below the door. If they aren’t there, either the wrong sill has been fitted or, more ominously, the sill may be full of filler.

The front panels are prone to rusting along their trailing edge. The areas around the headlights also go, as do the front wings where they meet the sills and wheelarch lips. Inner wings can rot badly, so have a good look inside the wheelarch. Whatever rust is visible on the exterior, there’s likely to be much worse beneath the surface, so be vigilant. 

ENGINE

Both B18 and B20 engines were built to last, with some cars known to have racked up an astronomical 2 million miles. But there are still things to look out for. Open the bonnet and check the top of the block for any oil leaks. If the engine has been cleaned recently, check once again at the end of your test drive. Various gaskets and seals can go and can be a bit of a pain to replace. Check that the oil and coolant levels are as they should be, and that both are clean and fresh. A compression test will be the best guide to the engine’s health, but you should at least check the oil filler for mayonnaise if this is not possible. Start the engine from cold and allow it to get up to operating temperature. Get a friend to accelerate hard and check for smoke from the tail pipe. Blue smoke suggests internal wear and will necessitate a full rebuild – not a cheap undertaking. You should expect to see 40psi of oil pressure when the engine is running.
Finally, listen for any knocks or rattles from the engine. Any odd noises coming from the bottom end should be a serious cause for concern. Don’t be put off by a rough sounding idle though, these engines never ran like sewing machines.

RUNNING GEAR

All gearboxes fitted to the P1800 are bombproof, providing they’ve been kept well topped up with oil. However, this may not always be the case. Listen for any whining or graunching noises, both indicate a well-worn diff that is due a rebuild. Gears should slot in without much effort and shouldn’t pop out – walk away if they do. All UK models were fitted with overdrive as standard, so make sure this is working as advertised on your test drive. If it doesn’t work it is most likely a failed relay, but could be a trapped wire, which will be a nightmare to track down.
Wheels in post 1970 cars use an alloy hub and steel rim, which can separate with time. Make sure these have been replaced with later units, which are a direct swap. There were two types of rear axle available, EMV or Spicer – the Spicer unit is by far the better option. 

INTERIOR

It’s important you make sure the interior is in good condition as you can spend a small fortune bringing a P1800 interior back up to spec. Check the seats haven’t collapsed and are free from rips and tears. Don’t overlook anything – door cards and dash trim are expensive, and even a set of carpets will set you back somewhere in the region of £350. Electrics are fairly straightforward. Look for an aftermarket electric fan and check that it is in working order. If not, make doubly sure you check for headgasket damage. 

OUR VERDICT

The P1800 combines two of the most desirable traits in a classic car; good looks and reliability. A reputation for weapons-grade engines and gearboxes presents a classic that is there to be driven, and driven far. Sumptuous handling, comfortable interior and low running costs make for a world-beating grand tourer. The P1800 isn’t just a capable classic: it’s also a sound investment. Prices have been steadily rising, and fortunately, there are still decent cars within the reach of the average enthusiast. If you want one - buy now and improve over time, before you cant afford to.

Combining exotic looks and rarity, the 1800E doesn’t seem like an obvious daily-drive choice – but don’t let that put you off. If you can find one with a good body and invest in some decent rust-protection, then that scenario is perfectly feasible. Yes, the earlier Jensen-built P1800 is famed as Roger Moore’s transport in The Saint, but later models had a useful power hike thanks to modern fuel-injection. 

Introduced in 1970, the 1800E used the beefed-up B20E engine. With that Bosch D-Jetronic fuel injection system and revised camshaft working in glorious Scandinavian harmony, Volvo wrung 130bhp from its two-litre engine, without sacrificing fuel economy. Top speed was just shy of 120mph and acceleration from 0-60 took 9.5 seconds – impressive figures for the day. In addition, the 1800E introduced four-wheel disc brakes – previously the 1800 series had front discs and rear drums. 

Don’t be tempted by bodged cars, as they really are more trouble than they’re worth. But get it right and you won’t regret plumping for a classic Swede. Hooray for the Einspritzung!

VOLVO 240 REVIEW

When launched in 1974, the Volvo 200-series was the most startling adherent of the move towards providing good passive safety in all road cars. It was a heavily revised update of the 100-series and was available in four-cylinder 244/245 form, and six-cylinder V6 264/265 form, powered by an engine jointly-developed with Peugeot and Renault. The range lasted until 1993. With many solid examples left, it makes a sound everyday classic. Here's what to watch for.

VOLVO 850 REVIEW

Understated yet radical, the Volvo 850 provided buyers with a chance to drive 150mph, with their dog in the back. The big Swedish car maker made an absolute brute of a machine that came in both saloon and estate forms. Not only did the five-cylinder lump have a brilliant bark, it could back it up thanks to its racing pedigree. Tom Walkinshaw Racing infamously prepared an estate version for the 1944 BTCC season. 

VITAL STATISTICS

Volvo 850 T5

Engine           2319cc, 5-cyl, OHC

Power            225bhp @ 5200rpm

Torque          221lb.ft @ 2000rpm

Top speed   149mph

0-60mph        7.2sec

Economy      29mpg

Gearbox        5spd manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

Stone chips are a major concern, as it is wide and low, with hard suspension. The T5R had even lower suspension, and a front splitter to scrape along speed bumps. Generally the Swedish barge doesn’t suffer from rust, although one major rot point are the exhaust rear hangers, which are an easy fix. Estates are obviously very practical, which means some may have been used as a make-shift van. Check the roof linings to see if they’ve been abused. Tow bars are another tell-tale sign it might have been worked hard.

ENGINE AND GEARBOX

Turbos are a very prominent feature of the Volvo, and is an important part of what makes it so quick. It’s important that there’s no blue smoke when the turbo is on boost, as this can indicate a worn turbo, turbo oil seals or worn piston rings. The turbo should begin working at about 2500rpm and reach maximum boost at 3000rpm. The boost gauge (if it has one, non standard feature) should reach approximately three-quarters of the way. If it doesn’t, there could be a problem with the turbo. The Electronic Throttle Module failing is a common fault, and easily identifiable by a stuttering engine and a lack of power. One way to check this is to rev the car to about 4000rpm and take your foot off the accelerator; it should fall smoothly back to idle. Timing belts need changing every 5-8 years depending upon use, it’s well worth checking when this was last done.

RUNNING GEAR

The R suspension is lower than the stock T5 by about 30mm, which is important to remember for people with bad backs or people who like any sort of travel in their suspension. Some will be equipped with a self-leveling system for the rear suspension, most commonly found on estates. If it looks suspiciously low at the back then this may have failed. Suspension parts are often modified, so ask the owner about any they may have made. Brake components are also rife for change, with owners often upgrading to a 302mm disc to aid braking performance. Make sure if they’ve been upgraded in size, the hoses have been upgraded as well. These Volvos are notorious for their front tyre wear, mainly due to it being front-wheel-drive. Significantly more worn tyres at the front than rear can also be a sign of hoonery.

INTERIOR

Air conditioning units were known to fail within their first two to four years. If this is the case it requires taking the whole dash out, meaning costs of up to £1000 to put right. Heater matrixes have also been known to fail.

There was a recall on heated seats effecting 1996 models. Although it is most likely they have been replaced, it’s still important to ask. Some models came with electronically controlled seats which can fail over time. Expensive to put right, but can be used as a bargaining tool when trying to get money off.

ELECTRICS

T5s and T5Rs are usually specced to within an inch of their lives, meaning there are more electrical items, and more to go wrong. Most have climate control and CD multichangers, which add to the expense when they go wrong. It’s important to check that the warning lights are working, especially as the ABS light is known to fail, which can be a wider sign of ECU trouble.

VERDICT

Why do you want one? 

There’s something oddly irresistible about a large saloon or estate that will do 150mph. You don’t really need to transport a large quantity of flat pack furniture from IKEA, but you want to. With prices starting from £1600 for useable versions, it’s also a performance bargain, and the engines can easily get 200,000 miles plus if well maintained. If you’re after something left field, Swedish and fiery, you’ve found it. 

ALVIS TD21 Review

Looking for some plump classic car motoring? The Alvis TD21 is the classic for you... 

"Make way for the quality!" was a line many motorists would have heard emanating from the cockpit of an Alvis Three-Litre drophead during the last 1960s and early 1970s – shortly before being overtaken by a man with tin legs. Sir Douglas Bader loved his Alvis, which he would drive in a manner most befitting of a former fighter pilot. "Best car in the world" was another epithet applied to the car by another irritable, gritty, patriotic part of British culture; John LeCarre’s creation Jim Prideaux from Tinker, Tailor, Soldier, Spy.

Both are right, and both in their manner rather sum up the Alvis TD21. It has a ‘tally-ho’ spirit combined with restrained good taste and sheer Britishness; a cocktail found in no other car.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine – 2993cc, 6-cyl,

Power - 115bhp@00rpm

Torque - 152lb/ft@5200rpm

Top Speed – 105mph

0-60mph – 13.9seconds

Economy - 18mpg

Gearbox – 4/5 speed manual, 3 speed auto

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Bodywork

Most cars were coachbuilt by Rolls-Royce subsidiary Park Ward, with styling inspired by the TC108G. The roof, bonnet, and bootlid are aluminium, as are Series 2 doors. But that’s where the easy bit ends. Park-Ward bodied Alvises are no stranger to iron oxide, due to their manner of construction. In order to reduce weight the TD21 was produced from thin steel pressings, which were spot-welded together in order to achieve a strong yet light structure. This left water free to worm its way in and corrode ious sections from the inside out. Check the sills, the boot floor, the base of the roof, and the inside of the rear wings. The boot floor is connected to the rear wings by flanges which rust out, and the joint between the inner arches and the wings has been known to do the same. The roof may be floating in mid-air – two easy ways to check are to check the condition of the leather interior trim attached to the roof, and to get in the back, put your hands on the roof, and push up! The rear window also has a wooden frame attached to a crossmember below the parcel shelf – make sure there’s no rot here. 

There are 2 types, Series 1 and Series 2. Principal cosmetic difference is the nose; Series 2s had integral spotlamps, whereas the Series 1 made do with a pair of cooling ducts between the lamps and grille.

Engines

Due to an innate company desire to avoid waste, the first 25 TD21s actually had an engine carried over from the previous TC108G, rather than the design intended for the TD. These had a siamesed head, unless the ‘six port’ head of the engine intended for the car. The later engine has improved breathing, higher peak revs and a higher compression ratio, and is generally more desirable. These can be differentiated by the rocker cover and the angle of the induction/exhaust face. Grille slats can deform – this directs air away from the radiator and leads to overheating issues.

Running Gear

With the exception of the gearbox it’s all standard Alvis fare – the box being an Austin Healey derived unit with an Alvis-designed selector mechanism. The Healey ‘box isn’t up to the torque of the Alvis engine, and synchromesh on second is problematic. Many fit the later ZF five speed box, or a Getrag unit from a modern BMW. Best of the standard gearboxes is the 3 speed Borg-Warner automatic, for which parts are readily available and relatively inexpensive.

Interior

A full retrim will cost an arm and a leg – so make sure it either isn’t necessary or has been done properly in the past. The map pockets and door trim often get overlooked when the car has been retrimmed due to their complexity – a good trimmer should have done these when any work to the seats has been done. If they don’t match, it’s only a partial retrim – don’t let the seller con you. Cars may have been retrimmed with vinyl if working to a budget – check that the material isn’t cloth backed.

That lovely figured walnut won’t be cheap to replace either – make sure everything’s in good order. Same with the carpets – quality isn’t cheap, and only the best will do for an Alvis.

VERDICT

Nothing quite says "class" like an Alvis Three Litre. Unlike Jaguar, Daimler, Royce and Bentley, the image hasn’t been tainted by association with some shadier aspects of the company’s past or present output. They’re very much "old money", and conjure up a picture of this scepter’d isle which is forever golden – it’s the car oft-driven by retired servicemen in country villages, and perhaps sums up this portion of England better than any other metaphor. Get one bought and bask in all those admiring glances – you’ll never look back.

VOLVO AMAZON REVIEW

Hard wearing and reliable, we examine this Swedish workhorse with rally pedigree

The Amazon is a fantastically usable car that is a more accomplished drive than many other, much younger classics. Both B16 and B18 engines provide more than enough power for keeping up with modern traffic and sturdy head-wearing gearboxes make changing ratios a pleasure. 

Despite its relatively large size, the Amazon can be made to handle very well, as proven by its huge popularity as a classic rally car. Indeed, there are thousands of performance upgrades for motorsport applications, from improved suspension set-ups to engine components. 

Standard cars tend to suffer from body-roll through the bends, but this can easily be cured by a specialist and a flash of your credit card.

But this car’s real strength is its build quality, not just its handling characteristics. It may not set the world alight in standard guise, but you can rest safe in the knowledge that it won’t rust away overnight.

VITAL STATISTICS

Volvo Amazon

Engine                                    1778cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  86bhp@4800rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 107lb ft@3500rpm

Top speed                                96mph

0-60mph                                  14sec

Consumption                            24-29mpg 

Gearbox                                    4-spd manual/optional O/D

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

The Volvo Amazon is typical of Swedish build quality of the era: tough, rugged and built to last. Thick steel panels would be more at home on a battle tank, and copious rust proofing means that the bodywork is well protected. But as with all cars that have been around for 57 years, corrosion is sure to have taken its toll. Wheel arches will begin to rust around the edges, and the front of sills will be vulnerable where stone chips have damaged the paintwork. Make sure the sills are straight and true. Headlights and tail lamps are common water traps, so inspect closely where they meet the bodywork. Fortunately, replacement body panels are readily available.

Windscreen rubbers will eventually become brittle and perish, especially if the car has been left exposed to the elements. Have a poke around to make sure water hasn’t crept behind the seals, as rust can run amok and cause structural damage. It can be difficult to spot if only given a casual glance. Use a magnet to check for any shoddy repairs or lumps of filler, especially at the lower corners of the windscreen.

Brightwork abounds on the Amazon including door handles, bumpers, door mirrors and accent strips. By now it will likely be dull and weathered, and have lost most of its lustre. Check for pitting and corrosion, dented bumpers and shopping trolley collisions.

ENGINE

Volvo engines of the period have a reputation for being hardy, reliable and capable of withstanding a lot of punishment. Thankfully, this is true of the 1.8 and 2-litre, four-cylinder motors used in the Amazon. Both engines are tough and will reach moon-and-back mileages with just regular servicing. Check that all fluids are clean and fresh, and look for evidence of regular servicing in the history file. 

Fibre timing gear has been known to fail, and will be clear by a loud rattling noise coming from the front of the engine. Replacement steel units are available, but will be relatively expensive.

ELECTRICS

The top-model 300SE and 300SEL had air suspension, which was high-tech stuff for the early 1960s. The ride it gives is quite remarkable, but problems can be very expensive indeed to fix, and parts are not plentiful. Buy an air-sprung Fintail with your eyes wide open, and have the phone numbers of a specialist and your bank manager close at hand.

RUNNING GEAR

Gearboxes share the same reputation for reliability and toughness as engines. They are well-engineered and should provide a precise, smooth gear change. The brass selector at the top of the ’box can wear, making ratio changes much more vague, but this can easily be replaced. Be more critical if any grinding noises can be heard, if it jumps out of gear. Check the history file for signs of regular servicing. 

BRAKES

Suspension is simple and easy to work on, and fortunately, parts are readily available. Indeed, most components can still be bought new directly from Volvo. Steering can feel sloppy, but this shouldn’t be too big a problem. If the master cylinder is overfilled with hydraulic fluid it can degrade fibre joints in the steering column. Replacements are cheap and easy to fit, so are worth replacing regardless.  

INTERIOR

Interior seats and trim are utilitarian and hard wearing, so should have survived well. Red interiors are thought to be the most comfortable, but are prone to fading if exposed to sunlight for extended periods. Sunlight will also attack the dashboard covering, eventually causing it to crack and warp. Though replacements are available for left-hand drive cars, there is currently no provision for UK models.

OUR VERDICT

Many classic owners claim to use their cars on a daily basis, but the Amazon is one of the few classics that can really handle such regular use. Thick gauge steel and heavy duty panels allow the Amazon to stand up to the harshest of Swedish winters, and heavy-duty engines are renowned in the classic community for being able to cope with huge mileages.

For when things do go wrong, fantastic specialist support means you’ll never struggle to carry out repairs or improvements, and affordable and plentiful parts supplies will be a revelation to those with more obscure 

VOLVO 480 ES REVIEW

As a wedge-shaped, electronics-packed sports estate, the 480ES came right out of left-field for sensible Volvo during the 1980s.

Volvo in the 1980s wasn’t the world’s most exciting car company. The 480ES was intended to, well, not exactly change that, but at least inject a bit of fizz into a range that had rather lacked it since the demise of the 1800ES in 1973. Launched in 1985, the quirky streamlined wedge that was the 480ES looked completely different to anything else in the Swedish firm’s line-up (although as an estate, it did somewhat conform to the view many had of Volvo). The 1721cc engine was shared with the Renault 11 – then a collaborative partner with Volvo – and was tuned by Porsche, while Lotus tweaked the suspension. Inside was a gimmicky digital display, all the rage during the mid-1980s.  

In 1989, a turbocharged version joined the line-up, but only offered 120bhp to the standard variant’s 109bhp. This was followed in 1992 by an upgrade to two litres and a genuine all-Volvo engine to improve reliability. The 480ES was discontinued in 1995, but the 440 hatchback and 460 saloon offshoots continued through to 1997.     

VITAL STATISTICS

ENGINE                                  1721cc/4-cyl/OHC

POWER                                  109bhp@5800rpm

TORQUE                             103lb ft@4000rpm

MAXIMUM SPEED             12mph

0-60MPH                                10.3sec

FUEL CONSUMPTION      28.8mpg

TRANSMISSION                   FWD, five-spd manual/four-spd auto

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Body matters

Despite it being a Volvo, 480s can and do rust. Prime areas are the sills, rear wheelarches, roof edges around the windscreen and door bottoms. The area behind the bumper also likes to corrode. Look for straight panel gaps – uneven ones could be the result of previous accident damage. The biggest issue with the 480ES is that it is prone to leaks, usually around the rear lamps (which will allow water into the boot area), above the rear side windows, via the sunroof or the front bulkhead. Rear lamps often discolour and go brittle.

Chassis concerns

If you do suspect an accident (see above) then get underneath to look for any kinks or ripples. It’s also wise to check the sills and floorpan from beneath, as well as look for any impact damage – these are quite low-slung machines after all.

Engine issues

Both the 1.7-litre Renault and two-litre Volvo engines are resilient enough, although it’s the larger and later Volvo unit that is the toughest of the bunch. It was prone to using oil though. Usual checks apply: a full service history is always a bonus (especially as Volvo did a number of in-service improvements), listen for any deep rumbles from within, look for blue smoke on start-up and acceleration and check for signs of overheating which could signal head gasket issues – in which case oil will be getting into the water and vice versa. If you’re fortunate enough to find one of the rare Turbos, make sure the turbocharger is doing its stuff and boosting properly when you accelerate.       

Transmission trials

Clutch cable failure is a common malady – if the pedal grates or feels stiff when pushed, suspect this is about to occur. Gearboxes don’t often give many problems, but on high mileage examples, the synchromesh can start to feel weak.

Suspension stories

Steering should be very sharp (all examples had power steering as standard too) so any vagueness should sound alarm bells. It’s quite likely to be worn bushes, which will be backed up by any banging or crashing over bumps during your test drive.    

The inside story

The 480ES became quite notorious for poor electrics, so check everything inside works, especially the dash digital ‘infocentre’ as well as the windows. Make sure the pop-up headlamps rise and retract promptly and together. Wet carpets or a musty smell suggest leaks have struck. Air conditioning, if fitted, should blow cold if so set – often it doesn’t.

OUR VERDICT

Well, aside from the obvious – it’s got very cool pop-up headlamps – the main reason you want one is because it’s just not an obvious Volvo. It’s also been largely forgotten by many, yet has an enthusiastic following among enthusiasts in the know. Think of it as a more practical, more robust Triumph TR7 with gadgets, and you wouldn’t be too far from the truth. As a sports car – of sorts – it is surprisingly effective with handling that’s enjoyably great. And while the 480ES may not be quite as tough as its bigger, less racy siblings, it’s still instilled with Volvo’s traditional qualities of safety and solidity.

As production continued, the early faults were ironed out, so the later cars are the best of the bunch to go for. At the moment, they’re all still pretty cheap to snap up too.   

ALVIS SPEED 20 REVIEW

Through soundness of design and excellent workmanship, Alvis gained a consistently good competition career throughout the vintage period, no doubt helping sales along the way. The Alvis Speed 20 was introduced in 1932, one of the first cars to come with an all-synchromesh gearbox. Powered by a 2,511cc six cylinder ohv engine with triple S.U. carburrettors, the Speed 20 could easily reach 75mph, with about 90 miles an hour on hand if the going was right.

ALVIS 12/50 REVIEW

Hugely satisfying to drive, the Alvis 12/50 is generally regarded as one of the definitive vintage cars with an excellent balance of power, road holding and braking. The simplicity of its mechanical design and the strength of its chassis contribute to remarkable durability and reliability. Most bodies were coachbuilt by Cross and Ellis or Carbodies, other companies being used occasionally. The immortal 12/50 Alvis was produced from 1923 to 1933 with some 3616 examples produced, of which 446 are known to have survived.

ALVIS TA14 REVIEW

Introduced the 12/70 model in 1937, a nimble four-cylinder car of 1,842cc capacity and priced marginally more than the contemporary Rover, maintaining the slight extra edge over Rover in the prestige car stakes. When Coventry began the long process of recovering from hostilities, the old 12/70 was re-introduced, marginally modified and now designated the Alvis TA14 and forming the mainstay of early post-war production. With a top speed of around 75mph, the model was seen on occasion at post-war rallies where it never disgraced itself.

VOLVO 120-SERIES REVIEW

The Amazon may have forged Volvo’s robust reputation but care is still needed when buying one...

As far as most of the world is concerned, it all starts here. The Amazon – originally known as the Amason until German scooter manufacturer Kriedler claimed it as a trademark, then officially titled the 120-series – was the first Volvo to be widely exported beyond Scandinavian shores. Its destinations included the UK, where we first received the sturdy Swede in 1957. Engineered with a solidity that few other manufacturers could match, it set the blueprint for Volvo build quality and dependability. As a result, Britain – or at least a large part of its middle classes – fell in love with the marque and remained loyal throughout subsequent generations.

Amazons possess a surprising nimbleness despite their air of durability. Originally with 1583cc engines, they were upgraded to 1778cc in 1961, when front disc brakes were standardised on the twin-carb variants, then again to 1986cc (for two-door variants) in 1968. The 115bhp 123GT was the most exciting performer and designed to capitalise on Volvo’s rally successes. Production ended in 1970, by which time the new 140 was on the scene.

VITAL STATISTICS

ENGINE                      17786cc/4-cyl/OHV

POWER                      115bhp@6000rpm

TORQUE                    112lb ft@4000rpm

MAXIMUM SPEED    104mph

0-60MPH                    13.8sec

Fuel consumption     23-30mpg

TRANSMISSION       RWD, four-spd man + O/D

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Body beautiful

These cars resist rust well, but if the front or rear screens have leaked, it will cause big problems. This will affect the bulkheads and footwells; look from inside the engine bay and in the car itself. Other known grot spots are the double-skinned rear wheelarches and the rear inner panels. Look inside the boot for a rotten spare wheel well and check the edge of the bootlid too. On estates, scrutinise the split tailgate carefully. Front wings, around the wheelarches and headlamps, plus the lower edges of doors, can suffer from tinworm and, naturally, check all along the sills too. The bonnet edge and seams around the grille are also vulnerable. Front wings are still available, but pricey.   

Engine issues

Engines are tough, but the early 1580cc unit isn’t as strong as its successors because it has a three-bearing crank rather than the later five-bearing one. Regular oil changes are the secret to a long life, as is using the correct Volvo oil filter with a non-return valve. Listen for noisy bearings plus loud timing gear. Check the temperature; if it’s running cool, then it may be a failed thermostat, which will harm fuel economy. Needles in the original Stromberg carburettors can wear, so many owners upgrade to SUs instead. Warm oil pressure should be 40psi at idle, or 50-55psi on the move. 

Transmission revamp?

Most cars have a four-speed manual gearbox, but three-speeders and automatics are just as resilient. A manual car with overdrive is a wise choice. The rubber in the centre of the propshaft wears out in time; unfortunately, choosing which one of the three possible replacements is the right one to fit is a challenge.

What lies beneath?

Suspension bushes – and those for the wishbones in particular – wear out. Coil springs have a tendency to break too, towards their bottoms. Earlier cars have a rear radius arm that rusts badly, so get underneath and check it. On estates, the radius arms are heavy duty but can still fail. Brakes are generally trouble-free, although the diaphragm on 1.6 and 1.8 Girling servos can perish and allow brake fluid into the engine.

The inside story

Interiors are simple and hard wearing, though certain items of trim can be difficult or expensive to source. That includes exterior items too – especially the complex bumpers. Electrical problems are usually down to bad earths, corrosion or a blown 30amp fuse in the engine bay. Replacements are hard to come by.

OUR VERDICT

The Volvo Amazon manages to combine kudos and credibility with engineering integrity and ruggedness. These cars are among the most well-built of their era yet still retain a sporty character thanks to their rally adventures – something you can’t really say that about the boxier Volvos that followed.

With many European saloons and estates of the 1950s and 1960s, you need to constantly keep on top of issues such as rust and mechanics. That’s much less the case with the Amazon; you can use them every day, in all weathers, and they won’t protest too much. They also have typical Volvo practicality, seating five in comfort with room for all their paraphernalia in the capacious boot. The estates are even better at load lugging. Amazons are fun but tough.

VOLVO P1800 (1961-1973) REVIEW

Volvo had always been known for a focus on safety rather than speed, so it came as a bit of a surprise when it unveiled the sporty-looking P1800 at the Brussels Motor Show in 1960. Power came from a a 1778cc engine, followed by the 1986cc B20. The first batch of cars were built by Jensen in Britain, but only 6500 of the 10,000 originally contracted were made before production moved back to Sweden after a few years. 

ALFA ROMEO SPIDER DUETTO REVIEW

Chic and sleek, Italy’s best-loved boat-tail roadster, the Alfa Romeo Spider Duetto, catches our eye...

The Spider Duetto doesn’t only look fantastic, but it is well known for offering a brilliantly composed and involving driving experience. The 1570cc twin cam engine is rated as one of the best of the era, providing plenty of power in a high-revving package, all of which is only enhanced by the wonderfully sporty engine note, even on stock examples. From 1967, the engine was uprated to 1779cc, which provided an additional 11bhp. 

The fantastic engine is mated to a truly inspired chassis, which is one of the main reasons the car handles as well as it does. With minimal sympathetic suspension upgrades, the car drives as if it’s on rails, and is much more planted through the bends than period rivals such as the MGB roadster. 

VITAL STATISTICS

Alfa Romeo Spider Duetto

Engine                                    1570cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  107bhp@6000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 103lb ft@2800rpm

Top speed                                113mph

0-60mph                                  11.3sec

Consumption                            28mpg  

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Duettos are prone to rot because the bodywork was assembled before the primer was applied. Inner sills are particularly susceptible and, being structural, this is a serious problem. Get a potential purchase on a ramp and have a look from below. If there’s any sign of crustiness or sogginess, walk away. Don’t be put off by fresh underseal, as it may be covering up paper-thin metal. If new sills are required, the cost is huge: both wings have to be chopped when replacing the sills, adding to the cost.

Wheelarches are prone to corrosion, so feel all around the inner arches for signs of rust and don’t be afraid to poke and prod. Once again, be wary of fresh underseal. Make sure you inspect the boot floor for signs of corrosion; any rust bubbling through is likely to be worse underneath. When the car is on the ramp, check the front crossmember behind the radiator both for rust and signs of welding. It is a muck and water trap and will more than likely need repair if it hasn’t already been done.

ENGINE

All Duettos were fitted with Alfa’s four-pot twin cam with an all-alloy engine block, which is sweet-revving and smooth-running, but they’re fragile if not cared for. Oil should be changed every 3000 miles, so look for a frequent service history, and ensure good oil has been used. Overheating leads to head gasket failure, so check the coolant for oil and inspect the oil filler cap for mayonnaise while the engine is cool. Let the engine warm up, keeping an eye on the temperature gauge. After a decent test drive, check the oil filler cap for mayonnaise again.

Check the side of the engine block for any oil leaks or streaks down its flanks. If three lines of oil can be seen then the O-rings below the camshaft bearings are shot. Be wary if the block looks too clean andbe sure to check it again after you’ve been for a test drive. Inspect the air filter for signs of oil from the breather pipe – this is a good indication that the block will require a costly rebuild. If so, walk away.

RUNNING GEAR

Running gear is typical Italian build quality of the era: not great. Steering and suspension bushes are susceptible to wear, so will have been replaced in anything nicer than a project car. Check that high quality replacements were used, as inferior parts are common. If the rear wheels have too much play, it is likely to be the trunnion bushes – count on needing nylon replacements if this hasn’t already been done. Metalastik bushes in the suspension wishbones are a weakness, seizing up after water damage. This is a common fault and a big job to put right, so look for evidence of repair in the history file. 

INTERIOR

Inspect the front floorpan on both driver and passenger sides. Lift any carpet and rubber mats, and if there are any rust patches or holes, walk away. Inspect the seat runners, particularly where they bolt to the floor. Also check for signs of damp – a leaking hood is a death sentence for a Duetto, eating away at the sills and floorpan. Check below the bottom of the doors, pulling back any rubber trim as water can become trapped beneath the rubber. 

Original interiors are rare and expensive to re-upholster, so check their condition; if the interior is non-original this will affect resale value. Electrics are typically Italian so check that everything is in working order. Gremlins can be a pain to fix, especially if you’re paying an electrician their hourly rate.

OUR VERDICT

Perhaps one of the most instantly recognisable of the Alfa Romeos, the Spider Duetto is also one of the prettiest. It enjoys a fashionable reputation unlike any other model, and has been synonymous with sexy chic ever since it first rolled off the production line in 1966. 

As much a style icon as a sports car, you can’t really go wrong with a Duetto and they also make a brilliant investment, providing you get a good one. If you’re not an expert, then it’s best to take one with you when viewing. Cheap cars can be dressed up to look like superb examples, but will most likely hide serious bodywork and mechanical issues that will cost a fortune to put right. As long as you buy wisely you’re unlikely to lose money, and you’ll have an involving and exciting roadster to enjoy throughout the summer.

There’s very little that exemplifies continental chic more stylishly than a Series 1 Alfa Romeo Spider Duetto. Architect-turned-TV-presenter Francesco da Mostro and celebrity chef Antonio Carluccio have both driven the sleek Alfa drop-tops on telly recently while showcasing the delights of Italy. Nothing seems to encapsulate the beauty of Italy – its food, fashion and people – as this old Alfa ragtop. 

Early boat-tail Duettos are easily the most desirable of the four incarnations of the car, the model that represents Pininfarina’s design at its purest. Unlike later cars, the Spider Duetto is almost timeless – it tugs on the heartstrings and can turn even the most partisan classic enthusiast misty-eyed. It’s not without its problems, but all that is forgiven as you blast along the road on a summer’s evening, the engine singing and the wind in your hair. There are cheaper and more reliable alternatives, but for sheer pleasure of ownership, nothing else will even come close. 

WOLSELEY 1500 REVIEW

The Wolseley 1500 was the upmarket small family saloon of the late 1950s and early 1960s. It’s affordable, stylish and fun...

Wolseley continue to appeal thanks to their simple engineering, high gearing and a healthy spares back-up. They also have period charm, with two-tone interiors on early cars, and the illuminated Wolseley badge on the grille. 

The 1500 combined the Morris Minor’s floorpan and suspension with a more roomy body and the 1.5-litre B-series engine. There were MkI models from 1957 to 1960; MkIIs had concealed bonnet and boot hinges, and arrow-head side trim; while the 1961-1965 MkIII had larger side grilles and rear lamps, and single-tone upholstery on the interior. 

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine                                    1489cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  50bhp@4200rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 71lb ft@2600rpm

Top speed                                78mph

0-60mph                                  24.4sec

Consumption                            35mpg

Gearbox                                    4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

Look carefully for rust on inner and outer front wings, and lift the bonnet to check where they join. The front panel rusts, particularly where it joins the front wings. The bottoms of the rear wings also go, and blocked drain holes will rot the door bottoms. The rear door also goes around the wheelarch, and the wheelarch can be affected.

Underneath, check the sills and floorpan. Move on to the front chassis legs and the crossmember that supports the floor, particularly the mounting-points for the front suspension’s torsion bars. At the back of the car, it’s the rear spring mountings that are vulnerable. There’s very little that can’t be fixed, but major structural repairs are expensive.

ENGINE

The engine is simple and robust, and there are spares galore. A single SU carburettor simplifies tuning, but you usually have to fiddle with the choke while the engine warms up. The B-series may run-on even when in good condition; prolonged and persistent running-on needs proper investigation, though. Expect it to use quite a bit of oil, but really high oil consumption suggests problems. Noise from the valve gear means the clearances must be re-set – in some cases, worn shafts and bushes will have to be replaced first.

Some owners have sought better performance by uprating the engine to Riley One-Point-Five or MGA 1500 specification, which is relatively easy to achieve. Other cars have been converted with modern units such as the Marina’s 1.8-litre. In such cases, the issue is how well the conversion has been achieved. With the Marina engine fitted, uprated brakes are advisable.

RUNNING GEAR

Expect some whine from the gearbox and rear axle, though not too much, and enjoy the high-geared third. The steering should be light, direct and precise, so be wary if it feels heavy. The steering swivels and joints need greasing every 1000 miles, and wear quickly if this is not done. Dry swivel pin joints eventually seize, the pin can shear and the front wheel collapses.

The dampers are Armstrong lever-arm types, and don’t last very long. Some owners have converted to telescopics (which is quite involved), but experts say you’ll get a better result by fitting an aftermarket anti-roll bar kit – though you’ll still have to keep an eye on those dampers.

Brakes are Lockheed drums all round, and not directly interchangeable with the equivalent Riley’s bigger Girling drums. Plenty of roll on corners and axle hop over bumps are only to be expected.

  INTERIOR

The interior combines cost-saving with luxury touches, so the seats have only fore-and-aft adjustment, but wear leather upholstery (the Fleet model from 1959 had Vynide trim). On the 1957-1961 MkI and II cars, the leather is two-tone – there were several combinations, so finding good seats in the right colour from a scrapyard isn’t likely. All cars come with walnut dashboards, complete with large radio speaker in the centre, and with matching door cappings.

OUR VERDICT

If you’re looking for a loveable, affordable classic to enjoy rather than to impress the lads, a Wolseley 1500 would suit you very well. Maintenance isn’t expensive, and if you’ve bought a good one, you won’t have to spend your time scouring autojumbles and small ads for obscure parts. You’ll be able to keep a 1500 on the road easily, but if you’re missing interior trim or chromeware, you might spend a very long time hunting for replacements.

WOLSELEY 15/50 REVIEW

The Wolseley 15/50 came along in 1956 as a replacement for the 4/44, having finally graduated to a 1489cc B-series of its own. Apart from a few trifling differences in chrome trim, there were no other changes, unless you consider an extra fog lamp to be the dawn of a new age. Later cars have a BMC back axle and changed to front wheel cylinders matching those used on the Wolseley 1500. Production continued until 1958, when the 15/50 - and its MG ZB equivalent - was superceded by the 15/60 Farina-bodied family car.

WOLSELEY 4/44 REVIEW

The Wolseley 4/44 appeared at the 1952 Motor Show, complete with 1250cc Nuffield XP engine (XPAW to be precise), column gearchange, rack-and-pinion steering and independent front suspension. Production, however, didn't get underway until 1953, alongside the sportier MG Magnette iant boasting a BMC B-series engine.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine 1250cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power 46bhp@4800rpm

Torque 58lb ft@2400rpm

Top speed 72mph

0-60mph 33sec    

Gearbox 4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

This is the most important matter to consider with one of these cars. The bodyshells were very well built, but the rustproofing was lacking. Only the front doors, bootlid and inner sill/box section are common with the MG Magnette, though some repair panels can be adapted. Secondhand Wolseley wings are to put it mildly, thin on the ground, but with some work you should be able to adapt an MG one, should you be lucky enough to discover such a thing in some farmyard where you're in danger of having a hen sink its teeth into you.

Look for corrosion at the front valances, seam across the wings, tops of the inner wing, front floorpans, rear spring hangers and bootlid. Check the area around the A-posts and look at the splash panels at the rear of each front wheelarch. If there's rot here there's almost certainly been a riot going on inside the sills, and rust can spread into the floor. The inner sills form part of a box section, the good thing being that they are the same as on the MG, and available. The outer sills are unique to the Wolseley and perform less of a strengthening function than the inners.

Less important potential rot spots are the door bottoms and area around the front sidelamps. Also around the front and rear windscreens, where rot can often result from water seepage.

ENGINE

The XPAW engine in the 4/44 is scarcer than the ubiquitous B-series in the 15/50 but you should be able to get just about naything for both. The XPAW engines are rugged but they are prone to leaking oil from the timing cover/front sump joints.

Unless the bodywork is wonderful, a 4/44 with a tired engine is probably best avoided. These engines aren't pleasant when they are worn and parts for an overhaul can be expensive.

TRANSMISSION

The gearbox tends to be long lived and should only be exhibiting wear you can live with, such as worn synchromesh on second and wear to the baulk rings. A sloppy 4/44 gearchange may be due merely to worn linkages or even just the spring at the bottom of the gearchange shaft. 

BRAKES

The 4/44 had Lockheed 9in hydraulic brakes, and you shouldn't have much difficulty getting anything for those at a reasonable price. The master cylinder is a double unit for brake and clutch, but available from several specialists, a stark contrast to the situation a few years ago.

STEERING & SUSPENSION

The 4/44 has an excellent rack-and-pinion set-up, giving surprisingly good handling. Steering racks can go for huge mileages without problems. The front suspension is a coil spring system and semi-elliptic springs at the back, with telescopic dampers all round.

Rubber bushes can perish, but you can replace them. Kingpins wear, and this will happen quickly if they're not kept well-greased. Again, specialists can supply everything you need.

INTERIOR & ELECTRICS

The cars offer a real touch of luxury for their price, with leather seat facings and polished wood. Carpet seats are available from several specialists.

OUR VERDICT

It's great looking vehicle, the interior is the same as much more expensive and temperamental Wolseleys plus the cars are lucky in that the XPAW engine shares components with the MG T series.

Rot is a problem, so think about it before you take on a major project. Otherwise, these are reliable and charismatic cars ready to provide real enjoyment.

WOLSELEY 6/80 REVIEW

Forever associated with stiff upper lip postwar British police films, the Wolseley 6/80 really is well worth seeking out.

‘Long, low and graceful. It fits the Ritz entrance. Doormen stand slightly straighter when it glides up.’

So which car of the late 1940s inspired that bizarre piece of advertising copywriting? Cadillac, Rolls-Royce? No, the Wolseley 6/80.

Yes that very car which to some resembled a bloated Morris Minor with a traditional Wolseley grille stuck on the front when it was introduced alongside that very car at the 1948 Motor Show. The line-up also included a Morris Six, which shared the Wolseley’s larger bodyshell and six-cylinder 2215cc overhead cam engine, though with only one carb, but lacked the Wolseley’s refinements, and, dare we say, presence. The 4/50 was a four-cylinder version of the car but with a shorter bonnet and 1476cc four-cylinder version of the 6/80.

The big Wolseley won a massive fanbase among the police, where its relatively good handling and top speed were very useful. Rather than ‘standing straighter’, many an errant driver would cower into their seat at the sight of the big Wolseley looming up behind.

The car continued in production until 1954, when 25,281 had been produced.

VITAL STATISTICS

ENGINE 2215cc/6 cyl/OHC

POWER 72bhp@4600rpm

TORQUE 101lb ft@2200rpm

MAXIMUM SPEED 80 MPH

0-60MPH 24 sec

FUEL CONSUMPTION 20mph

TRANSMISSION RWD, four-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

ENGINE

Almost a work of art in itself, the cars’ overhead-cam unit is a joy to hear not that hard to work on.

There was one problem that probably led to the death of more of these vehicles than any other – the original valves were really not up to the job. In 1952 the engine was altered, with changes to the cylinder head and waterways, which is felt by those in the know not to have really helped.

There is an easy solution to the problem – to have hardened valves fitted. The Wolseley 6/80 and MO Club - which performs miracles in helping keep the cars on the road, now has stainless steel valves available and can provide a secondhand cylinder head and block. Pistons are shared with the Wolseley 4/44 and available from Shropshire-based FW Thornton.

BODYWORK

As the Nuffield Organisation’s first venture into monocoque construction these cars were extremely strong. The most significant rot area is the bottom of the A-post which is difficult to rectify.

The area where the sills meet the outer edges of the floor needs serious checking, as does the floor around the front mountings of the spring hangers.

Wings can corrode, particularly at the edge where repair sections. Body panels are in extremely short supply, and only available secondhand.

MIND YOUR TRUNNIONS

The torsion bar, twin telescopic damper (except for the lever arm variety on a few early cars) suspension is relatively straightforward. Currently unavailable are the lower suspension trunnions, which need careful greasing to live long term. You might be lucky with something secondhand. The cars have Lockheed brakes and most parts are available.

AUSTRALIA

As we’ve mentioned, many 6/80s went Down Under and the British Wolseley 6/80 and MO Club (which you MUST join) has a huge Aussie contingent, with which it works very closely in sourcing new and used components. Many a Wolseley bit has recrossed the seas!

OUR VERDICT

Even saying the name ‘Wolseley’ brings back a lost, respectable world of tea and a nice scone, and here is probably the greatest example of the marque. Beautifully built and appointed, the car cars are supremely imposing, sound magnificent – the overhead-cam engine was based on an Hispano-Suiza design. The sight through the split windscreen along the imposing bonnet is akin to rounding a corner and finding the Hanging Gardens of Babylon.

A 6/80 will give 80mph to the brave, or at least has little problems in modern traffic, and the torsion bar suspension provides half-reasonable handling for a car of this size and era.

No classic really has more presence the cars have excellent club support and their one-time Achilles heel, valve problems, have long been cured.

Sadly we can’t report a nationwide network of 6/80 specialists but the car does have fantastic club support. Buy one and join them!