VOLVO 850 REVIEW

Understated yet radical, the Volvo 850 provided buyers with a chance to drive 150mph, with their dog in the back. The big Swedish car maker made an absolute brute of a machine that came in both saloon and estate forms. Not only did the five-cylinder lump have a brilliant bark, it could back it up thanks to its racing pedigree. Tom Walkinshaw Racing infamously prepared an estate version for the 1944 BTCC season. 

VITAL STATISTICS

Volvo 850 T5

Engine           2319cc, 5-cyl, OHC

Power            225bhp @ 5200rpm

Torque          221lb.ft @ 2000rpm

Top speed   149mph

0-60mph        7.2sec

Economy      29mpg

Gearbox        5spd manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

Stone chips are a major concern, as it is wide and low, with hard suspension. The T5R had even lower suspension, and a front splitter to scrape along speed bumps. Generally the Swedish barge doesn’t suffer from rust, although one major rot point are the exhaust rear hangers, which are an easy fix. Estates are obviously very practical, which means some may have been used as a make-shift van. Check the roof linings to see if they’ve been abused. Tow bars are another tell-tale sign it might have been worked hard.

ENGINE AND GEARBOX

Turbos are a very prominent feature of the Volvo, and is an important part of what makes it so quick. It’s important that there’s no blue smoke when the turbo is on boost, as this can indicate a worn turbo, turbo oil seals or worn piston rings. The turbo should begin working at about 2500rpm and reach maximum boost at 3000rpm. The boost gauge (if it has one, non standard feature) should reach approximately three-quarters of the way. If it doesn’t, there could be a problem with the turbo. The Electronic Throttle Module failing is a common fault, and easily identifiable by a stuttering engine and a lack of power. One way to check this is to rev the car to about 4000rpm and take your foot off the accelerator; it should fall smoothly back to idle. Timing belts need changing every 5-8 years depending upon use, it’s well worth checking when this was last done.

RUNNING GEAR

The R suspension is lower than the stock T5 by about 30mm, which is important to remember for people with bad backs or people who like any sort of travel in their suspension. Some will be equipped with a self-leveling system for the rear suspension, most commonly found on estates. If it looks suspiciously low at the back then this may have failed. Suspension parts are often modified, so ask the owner about any they may have made. Brake components are also rife for change, with owners often upgrading to a 302mm disc to aid braking performance. Make sure if they’ve been upgraded in size, the hoses have been upgraded as well. These Volvos are notorious for their front tyre wear, mainly due to it being front-wheel-drive. Significantly more worn tyres at the front than rear can also be a sign of hoonery.

INTERIOR

Air conditioning units were known to fail within their first two to four years. If this is the case it requires taking the whole dash out, meaning costs of up to £1000 to put right. Heater matrixes have also been known to fail.

There was a recall on heated seats effecting 1996 models. Although it is most likely they have been replaced, it’s still important to ask. Some models came with electronically controlled seats which can fail over time. Expensive to put right, but can be used as a bargaining tool when trying to get money off.

ELECTRICS

T5s and T5Rs are usually specced to within an inch of their lives, meaning there are more electrical items, and more to go wrong. Most have climate control and CD multichangers, which add to the expense when they go wrong. It’s important to check that the warning lights are working, especially as the ABS light is known to fail, which can be a wider sign of ECU trouble.

VERDICT

Why do you want one? 

There’s something oddly irresistible about a large saloon or estate that will do 150mph. You don’t really need to transport a large quantity of flat pack furniture from IKEA, but you want to. With prices starting from £1600 for useable versions, it’s also a performance bargain, and the engines can easily get 200,000 miles plus if well maintained. If you’re after something left field, Swedish and fiery, you’ve found it. 

ALVIS TD21 Review

Looking for some plump classic car motoring? The Alvis TD21 is the classic for you... 

"Make way for the quality!" was a line many motorists would have heard emanating from the cockpit of an Alvis Three-Litre drophead during the last 1960s and early 1970s – shortly before being overtaken by a man with tin legs. Sir Douglas Bader loved his Alvis, which he would drive in a manner most befitting of a former fighter pilot. "Best car in the world" was another epithet applied to the car by another irritable, gritty, patriotic part of British culture; John LeCarre’s creation Jim Prideaux from Tinker, Tailor, Soldier, Spy.

Both are right, and both in their manner rather sum up the Alvis TD21. It has a ‘tally-ho’ spirit combined with restrained good taste and sheer Britishness; a cocktail found in no other car.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine – 2993cc, 6-cyl,

Power - 115bhp@00rpm

Torque - 152lb/ft@5200rpm

Top Speed – 105mph

0-60mph – 13.9seconds

Economy - 18mpg

Gearbox – 4/5 speed manual, 3 speed auto

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Bodywork

Most cars were coachbuilt by Rolls-Royce subsidiary Park Ward, with styling inspired by the TC108G. The roof, bonnet, and bootlid are aluminium, as are Series 2 doors. But that’s where the easy bit ends. Park-Ward bodied Alvises are no stranger to iron oxide, due to their manner of construction. In order to reduce weight the TD21 was produced from thin steel pressings, which were spot-welded together in order to achieve a strong yet light structure. This left water free to worm its way in and corrode ious sections from the inside out. Check the sills, the boot floor, the base of the roof, and the inside of the rear wings. The boot floor is connected to the rear wings by flanges which rust out, and the joint between the inner arches and the wings has been known to do the same. The roof may be floating in mid-air – two easy ways to check are to check the condition of the leather interior trim attached to the roof, and to get in the back, put your hands on the roof, and push up! The rear window also has a wooden frame attached to a crossmember below the parcel shelf – make sure there’s no rot here. 

There are 2 types, Series 1 and Series 2. Principal cosmetic difference is the nose; Series 2s had integral spotlamps, whereas the Series 1 made do with a pair of cooling ducts between the lamps and grille.

Engines

Due to an innate company desire to avoid waste, the first 25 TD21s actually had an engine carried over from the previous TC108G, rather than the design intended for the TD. These had a siamesed head, unless the ‘six port’ head of the engine intended for the car. The later engine has improved breathing, higher peak revs and a higher compression ratio, and is generally more desirable. These can be differentiated by the rocker cover and the angle of the induction/exhaust face. Grille slats can deform – this directs air away from the radiator and leads to overheating issues.

Running Gear

With the exception of the gearbox it’s all standard Alvis fare – the box being an Austin Healey derived unit with an Alvis-designed selector mechanism. The Healey ‘box isn’t up to the torque of the Alvis engine, and synchromesh on second is problematic. Many fit the later ZF five speed box, or a Getrag unit from a modern BMW. Best of the standard gearboxes is the 3 speed Borg-Warner automatic, for which parts are readily available and relatively inexpensive.

Interior

A full retrim will cost an arm and a leg – so make sure it either isn’t necessary or has been done properly in the past. The map pockets and door trim often get overlooked when the car has been retrimmed due to their complexity – a good trimmer should have done these when any work to the seats has been done. If they don’t match, it’s only a partial retrim – don’t let the seller con you. Cars may have been retrimmed with vinyl if working to a budget – check that the material isn’t cloth backed.

That lovely figured walnut won’t be cheap to replace either – make sure everything’s in good order. Same with the carpets – quality isn’t cheap, and only the best will do for an Alvis.

VERDICT

Nothing quite says "class" like an Alvis Three Litre. Unlike Jaguar, Daimler, Royce and Bentley, the image hasn’t been tainted by association with some shadier aspects of the company’s past or present output. They’re very much "old money", and conjure up a picture of this scepter’d isle which is forever golden – it’s the car oft-driven by retired servicemen in country villages, and perhaps sums up this portion of England better than any other metaphor. Get one bought and bask in all those admiring glances – you’ll never look back.

VOLVO AMAZON REVIEW

Hard wearing and reliable, we examine this Swedish workhorse with rally pedigree

The Amazon is a fantastically usable car that is a more accomplished drive than many other, much younger classics. Both B16 and B18 engines provide more than enough power for keeping up with modern traffic and sturdy head-wearing gearboxes make changing ratios a pleasure. 

Despite its relatively large size, the Amazon can be made to handle very well, as proven by its huge popularity as a classic rally car. Indeed, there are thousands of performance upgrades for motorsport applications, from improved suspension set-ups to engine components. 

Standard cars tend to suffer from body-roll through the bends, but this can easily be cured by a specialist and a flash of your credit card.

But this car’s real strength is its build quality, not just its handling characteristics. It may not set the world alight in standard guise, but you can rest safe in the knowledge that it won’t rust away overnight.

VITAL STATISTICS

Volvo Amazon

Engine                                    1778cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  86bhp@4800rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 107lb ft@3500rpm

Top speed                                96mph

0-60mph                                  14sec

Consumption                            24-29mpg 

Gearbox                                    4-spd manual/optional O/D

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

The Volvo Amazon is typical of Swedish build quality of the era: tough, rugged and built to last. Thick steel panels would be more at home on a battle tank, and copious rust proofing means that the bodywork is well protected. But as with all cars that have been around for 57 years, corrosion is sure to have taken its toll. Wheel arches will begin to rust around the edges, and the front of sills will be vulnerable where stone chips have damaged the paintwork. Make sure the sills are straight and true. Headlights and tail lamps are common water traps, so inspect closely where they meet the bodywork. Fortunately, replacement body panels are readily available.

Windscreen rubbers will eventually become brittle and perish, especially if the car has been left exposed to the elements. Have a poke around to make sure water hasn’t crept behind the seals, as rust can run amok and cause structural damage. It can be difficult to spot if only given a casual glance. Use a magnet to check for any shoddy repairs or lumps of filler, especially at the lower corners of the windscreen.

Brightwork abounds on the Amazon including door handles, bumpers, door mirrors and accent strips. By now it will likely be dull and weathered, and have lost most of its lustre. Check for pitting and corrosion, dented bumpers and shopping trolley collisions.

ENGINE

Volvo engines of the period have a reputation for being hardy, reliable and capable of withstanding a lot of punishment. Thankfully, this is true of the 1.8 and 2-litre, four-cylinder motors used in the Amazon. Both engines are tough and will reach moon-and-back mileages with just regular servicing. Check that all fluids are clean and fresh, and look for evidence of regular servicing in the history file. 

Fibre timing gear has been known to fail, and will be clear by a loud rattling noise coming from the front of the engine. Replacement steel units are available, but will be relatively expensive.

ELECTRICS

The top-model 300SE and 300SEL had air suspension, which was high-tech stuff for the early 1960s. The ride it gives is quite remarkable, but problems can be very expensive indeed to fix, and parts are not plentiful. Buy an air-sprung Fintail with your eyes wide open, and have the phone numbers of a specialist and your bank manager close at hand.

RUNNING GEAR

Gearboxes share the same reputation for reliability and toughness as engines. They are well-engineered and should provide a precise, smooth gear change. The brass selector at the top of the ’box can wear, making ratio changes much more vague, but this can easily be replaced. Be more critical if any grinding noises can be heard, if it jumps out of gear. Check the history file for signs of regular servicing. 

BRAKES

Suspension is simple and easy to work on, and fortunately, parts are readily available. Indeed, most components can still be bought new directly from Volvo. Steering can feel sloppy, but this shouldn’t be too big a problem. If the master cylinder is overfilled with hydraulic fluid it can degrade fibre joints in the steering column. Replacements are cheap and easy to fit, so are worth replacing regardless.  

INTERIOR

Interior seats and trim are utilitarian and hard wearing, so should have survived well. Red interiors are thought to be the most comfortable, but are prone to fading if exposed to sunlight for extended periods. Sunlight will also attack the dashboard covering, eventually causing it to crack and warp. Though replacements are available for left-hand drive cars, there is currently no provision for UK models.

OUR VERDICT

Many classic owners claim to use their cars on a daily basis, but the Amazon is one of the few classics that can really handle such regular use. Thick gauge steel and heavy duty panels allow the Amazon to stand up to the harshest of Swedish winters, and heavy-duty engines are renowned in the classic community for being able to cope with huge mileages.

For when things do go wrong, fantastic specialist support means you’ll never struggle to carry out repairs or improvements, and affordable and plentiful parts supplies will be a revelation to those with more obscure 

VOLVO 480 ES REVIEW

As a wedge-shaped, electronics-packed sports estate, the 480ES came right out of left-field for sensible Volvo during the 1980s.

Volvo in the 1980s wasn’t the world’s most exciting car company. The 480ES was intended to, well, not exactly change that, but at least inject a bit of fizz into a range that had rather lacked it since the demise of the 1800ES in 1973. Launched in 1985, the quirky streamlined wedge that was the 480ES looked completely different to anything else in the Swedish firm’s line-up (although as an estate, it did somewhat conform to the view many had of Volvo). The 1721cc engine was shared with the Renault 11 – then a collaborative partner with Volvo – and was tuned by Porsche, while Lotus tweaked the suspension. Inside was a gimmicky digital display, all the rage during the mid-1980s.  

In 1989, a turbocharged version joined the line-up, but only offered 120bhp to the standard variant’s 109bhp. This was followed in 1992 by an upgrade to two litres and a genuine all-Volvo engine to improve reliability. The 480ES was discontinued in 1995, but the 440 hatchback and 460 saloon offshoots continued through to 1997.     

VITAL STATISTICS

ENGINE                                  1721cc/4-cyl/OHC

POWER                                  109bhp@5800rpm

TORQUE                             103lb ft@4000rpm

MAXIMUM SPEED             12mph

0-60MPH                                10.3sec

FUEL CONSUMPTION      28.8mpg

TRANSMISSION                   FWD, five-spd manual/four-spd auto

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Body matters

Despite it being a Volvo, 480s can and do rust. Prime areas are the sills, rear wheelarches, roof edges around the windscreen and door bottoms. The area behind the bumper also likes to corrode. Look for straight panel gaps – uneven ones could be the result of previous accident damage. The biggest issue with the 480ES is that it is prone to leaks, usually around the rear lamps (which will allow water into the boot area), above the rear side windows, via the sunroof or the front bulkhead. Rear lamps often discolour and go brittle.

Chassis concerns

If you do suspect an accident (see above) then get underneath to look for any kinks or ripples. It’s also wise to check the sills and floorpan from beneath, as well as look for any impact damage – these are quite low-slung machines after all.

Engine issues

Both the 1.7-litre Renault and two-litre Volvo engines are resilient enough, although it’s the larger and later Volvo unit that is the toughest of the bunch. It was prone to using oil though. Usual checks apply: a full service history is always a bonus (especially as Volvo did a number of in-service improvements), listen for any deep rumbles from within, look for blue smoke on start-up and acceleration and check for signs of overheating which could signal head gasket issues – in which case oil will be getting into the water and vice versa. If you’re fortunate enough to find one of the rare Turbos, make sure the turbocharger is doing its stuff and boosting properly when you accelerate.       

Transmission trials

Clutch cable failure is a common malady – if the pedal grates or feels stiff when pushed, suspect this is about to occur. Gearboxes don’t often give many problems, but on high mileage examples, the synchromesh can start to feel weak.

Suspension stories

Steering should be very sharp (all examples had power steering as standard too) so any vagueness should sound alarm bells. It’s quite likely to be worn bushes, which will be backed up by any banging or crashing over bumps during your test drive.    

The inside story

The 480ES became quite notorious for poor electrics, so check everything inside works, especially the dash digital ‘infocentre’ as well as the windows. Make sure the pop-up headlamps rise and retract promptly and together. Wet carpets or a musty smell suggest leaks have struck. Air conditioning, if fitted, should blow cold if so set – often it doesn’t.

OUR VERDICT

Well, aside from the obvious – it’s got very cool pop-up headlamps – the main reason you want one is because it’s just not an obvious Volvo. It’s also been largely forgotten by many, yet has an enthusiastic following among enthusiasts in the know. Think of it as a more practical, more robust Triumph TR7 with gadgets, and you wouldn’t be too far from the truth. As a sports car – of sorts – it is surprisingly effective with handling that’s enjoyably great. And while the 480ES may not be quite as tough as its bigger, less racy siblings, it’s still instilled with Volvo’s traditional qualities of safety and solidity.

As production continued, the early faults were ironed out, so the later cars are the best of the bunch to go for. At the moment, they’re all still pretty cheap to snap up too.   

ALVIS SPEED 20 REVIEW

Through soundness of design and excellent workmanship, Alvis gained a consistently good competition career throughout the vintage period, no doubt helping sales along the way. The Alvis Speed 20 was introduced in 1932, one of the first cars to come with an all-synchromesh gearbox. Powered by a 2,511cc six cylinder ohv engine with triple S.U. carburrettors, the Speed 20 could easily reach 75mph, with about 90 miles an hour on hand if the going was right.

ALVIS 12/50 REVIEW

Hugely satisfying to drive, the Alvis 12/50 is generally regarded as one of the definitive vintage cars with an excellent balance of power, road holding and braking. The simplicity of its mechanical design and the strength of its chassis contribute to remarkable durability and reliability. Most bodies were coachbuilt by Cross and Ellis or Carbodies, other companies being used occasionally. The immortal 12/50 Alvis was produced from 1923 to 1933 with some 3616 examples produced, of which 446 are known to have survived.

ALVIS TA14 REVIEW

Introduced the 12/70 model in 1937, a nimble four-cylinder car of 1,842cc capacity and priced marginally more than the contemporary Rover, maintaining the slight extra edge over Rover in the prestige car stakes. When Coventry began the long process of recovering from hostilities, the old 12/70 was re-introduced, marginally modified and now designated the Alvis TA14 and forming the mainstay of early post-war production. With a top speed of around 75mph, the model was seen on occasion at post-war rallies where it never disgraced itself.

VOLVO 120-SERIES REVIEW

The Amazon may have forged Volvo’s robust reputation but care is still needed when buying one...

As far as most of the world is concerned, it all starts here. The Amazon – originally known as the Amason until German scooter manufacturer Kriedler claimed it as a trademark, then officially titled the 120-series – was the first Volvo to be widely exported beyond Scandinavian shores. Its destinations included the UK, where we first received the sturdy Swede in 1957. Engineered with a solidity that few other manufacturers could match, it set the blueprint for Volvo build quality and dependability. As a result, Britain – or at least a large part of its middle classes – fell in love with the marque and remained loyal throughout subsequent generations.

Amazons possess a surprising nimbleness despite their air of durability. Originally with 1583cc engines, they were upgraded to 1778cc in 1961, when front disc brakes were standardised on the twin-carb variants, then again to 1986cc (for two-door variants) in 1968. The 115bhp 123GT was the most exciting performer and designed to capitalise on Volvo’s rally successes. Production ended in 1970, by which time the new 140 was on the scene.

VITAL STATISTICS

ENGINE                      17786cc/4-cyl/OHV

POWER                      115bhp@6000rpm

TORQUE                    112lb ft@4000rpm

MAXIMUM SPEED    104mph

0-60MPH                    13.8sec

Fuel consumption     23-30mpg

TRANSMISSION       RWD, four-spd man + O/D

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Body beautiful

These cars resist rust well, but if the front or rear screens have leaked, it will cause big problems. This will affect the bulkheads and footwells; look from inside the engine bay and in the car itself. Other known grot spots are the double-skinned rear wheelarches and the rear inner panels. Look inside the boot for a rotten spare wheel well and check the edge of the bootlid too. On estates, scrutinise the split tailgate carefully. Front wings, around the wheelarches and headlamps, plus the lower edges of doors, can suffer from tinworm and, naturally, check all along the sills too. The bonnet edge and seams around the grille are also vulnerable. Front wings are still available, but pricey.   

Engine issues

Engines are tough, but the early 1580cc unit isn’t as strong as its successors because it has a three-bearing crank rather than the later five-bearing one. Regular oil changes are the secret to a long life, as is using the correct Volvo oil filter with a non-return valve. Listen for noisy bearings plus loud timing gear. Check the temperature; if it’s running cool, then it may be a failed thermostat, which will harm fuel economy. Needles in the original Stromberg carburettors can wear, so many owners upgrade to SUs instead. Warm oil pressure should be 40psi at idle, or 50-55psi on the move. 

Transmission revamp?

Most cars have a four-speed manual gearbox, but three-speeders and automatics are just as resilient. A manual car with overdrive is a wise choice. The rubber in the centre of the propshaft wears out in time; unfortunately, choosing which one of the three possible replacements is the right one to fit is a challenge.

What lies beneath?

Suspension bushes – and those for the wishbones in particular – wear out. Coil springs have a tendency to break too, towards their bottoms. Earlier cars have a rear radius arm that rusts badly, so get underneath and check it. On estates, the radius arms are heavy duty but can still fail. Brakes are generally trouble-free, although the diaphragm on 1.6 and 1.8 Girling servos can perish and allow brake fluid into the engine.

The inside story

Interiors are simple and hard wearing, though certain items of trim can be difficult or expensive to source. That includes exterior items too – especially the complex bumpers. Electrical problems are usually down to bad earths, corrosion or a blown 30amp fuse in the engine bay. Replacements are hard to come by.

OUR VERDICT

The Volvo Amazon manages to combine kudos and credibility with engineering integrity and ruggedness. These cars are among the most well-built of their era yet still retain a sporty character thanks to their rally adventures – something you can’t really say that about the boxier Volvos that followed.

With many European saloons and estates of the 1950s and 1960s, you need to constantly keep on top of issues such as rust and mechanics. That’s much less the case with the Amazon; you can use them every day, in all weathers, and they won’t protest too much. They also have typical Volvo practicality, seating five in comfort with room for all their paraphernalia in the capacious boot. The estates are even better at load lugging. Amazons are fun but tough.

VOLVO P1800 (1961-1973) REVIEW

Volvo had always been known for a focus on safety rather than speed, so it came as a bit of a surprise when it unveiled the sporty-looking P1800 at the Brussels Motor Show in 1960. Power came from a a 1778cc engine, followed by the 1986cc B20. The first batch of cars were built by Jensen in Britain, but only 6500 of the 10,000 originally contracted were made before production moved back to Sweden after a few years. 

ALFA ROMEO SPIDER DUETTO REVIEW

Chic and sleek, Italy’s best-loved boat-tail roadster, the Alfa Romeo Spider Duetto, catches our eye...

The Spider Duetto doesn’t only look fantastic, but it is well known for offering a brilliantly composed and involving driving experience. The 1570cc twin cam engine is rated as one of the best of the era, providing plenty of power in a high-revving package, all of which is only enhanced by the wonderfully sporty engine note, even on stock examples. From 1967, the engine was uprated to 1779cc, which provided an additional 11bhp. 

The fantastic engine is mated to a truly inspired chassis, which is one of the main reasons the car handles as well as it does. With minimal sympathetic suspension upgrades, the car drives as if it’s on rails, and is much more planted through the bends than period rivals such as the MGB roadster. 

VITAL STATISTICS

Alfa Romeo Spider Duetto

Engine                                    1570cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  107bhp@6000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 103lb ft@2800rpm

Top speed                                113mph

0-60mph                                  11.3sec

Consumption                            28mpg  

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Duettos are prone to rot because the bodywork was assembled before the primer was applied. Inner sills are particularly susceptible and, being structural, this is a serious problem. Get a potential purchase on a ramp and have a look from below. If there’s any sign of crustiness or sogginess, walk away. Don’t be put off by fresh underseal, as it may be covering up paper-thin metal. If new sills are required, the cost is huge: both wings have to be chopped when replacing the sills, adding to the cost.

Wheelarches are prone to corrosion, so feel all around the inner arches for signs of rust and don’t be afraid to poke and prod. Once again, be wary of fresh underseal. Make sure you inspect the boot floor for signs of corrosion; any rust bubbling through is likely to be worse underneath. When the car is on the ramp, check the front crossmember behind the radiator both for rust and signs of welding. It is a muck and water trap and will more than likely need repair if it hasn’t already been done.

ENGINE

All Duettos were fitted with Alfa’s four-pot twin cam with an all-alloy engine block, which is sweet-revving and smooth-running, but they’re fragile if not cared for. Oil should be changed every 3000 miles, so look for a frequent service history, and ensure good oil has been used. Overheating leads to head gasket failure, so check the coolant for oil and inspect the oil filler cap for mayonnaise while the engine is cool. Let the engine warm up, keeping an eye on the temperature gauge. After a decent test drive, check the oil filler cap for mayonnaise again.

Check the side of the engine block for any oil leaks or streaks down its flanks. If three lines of oil can be seen then the O-rings below the camshaft bearings are shot. Be wary if the block looks too clean andbe sure to check it again after you’ve been for a test drive. Inspect the air filter for signs of oil from the breather pipe – this is a good indication that the block will require a costly rebuild. If so, walk away.

RUNNING GEAR

Running gear is typical Italian build quality of the era: not great. Steering and suspension bushes are susceptible to wear, so will have been replaced in anything nicer than a project car. Check that high quality replacements were used, as inferior parts are common. If the rear wheels have too much play, it is likely to be the trunnion bushes – count on needing nylon replacements if this hasn’t already been done. Metalastik bushes in the suspension wishbones are a weakness, seizing up after water damage. This is a common fault and a big job to put right, so look for evidence of repair in the history file. 

INTERIOR

Inspect the front floorpan on both driver and passenger sides. Lift any carpet and rubber mats, and if there are any rust patches or holes, walk away. Inspect the seat runners, particularly where they bolt to the floor. Also check for signs of damp – a leaking hood is a death sentence for a Duetto, eating away at the sills and floorpan. Check below the bottom of the doors, pulling back any rubber trim as water can become trapped beneath the rubber. 

Original interiors are rare and expensive to re-upholster, so check their condition; if the interior is non-original this will affect resale value. Electrics are typically Italian so check that everything is in working order. Gremlins can be a pain to fix, especially if you’re paying an electrician their hourly rate.

OUR VERDICT

Perhaps one of the most instantly recognisable of the Alfa Romeos, the Spider Duetto is also one of the prettiest. It enjoys a fashionable reputation unlike any other model, and has been synonymous with sexy chic ever since it first rolled off the production line in 1966. 

As much a style icon as a sports car, you can’t really go wrong with a Duetto and they also make a brilliant investment, providing you get a good one. If you’re not an expert, then it’s best to take one with you when viewing. Cheap cars can be dressed up to look like superb examples, but will most likely hide serious bodywork and mechanical issues that will cost a fortune to put right. As long as you buy wisely you’re unlikely to lose money, and you’ll have an involving and exciting roadster to enjoy throughout the summer.

There’s very little that exemplifies continental chic more stylishly than a Series 1 Alfa Romeo Spider Duetto. Architect-turned-TV-presenter Francesco da Mostro and celebrity chef Antonio Carluccio have both driven the sleek Alfa drop-tops on telly recently while showcasing the delights of Italy. Nothing seems to encapsulate the beauty of Italy – its food, fashion and people – as this old Alfa ragtop. 

Early boat-tail Duettos are easily the most desirable of the four incarnations of the car, the model that represents Pininfarina’s design at its purest. Unlike later cars, the Spider Duetto is almost timeless – it tugs on the heartstrings and can turn even the most partisan classic enthusiast misty-eyed. It’s not without its problems, but all that is forgiven as you blast along the road on a summer’s evening, the engine singing and the wind in your hair. There are cheaper and more reliable alternatives, but for sheer pleasure of ownership, nothing else will even come close. 

WOLSELEY 1500 REVIEW

The Wolseley 1500 was the upmarket small family saloon of the late 1950s and early 1960s. It’s affordable, stylish and fun...

Wolseley continue to appeal thanks to their simple engineering, high gearing and a healthy spares back-up. They also have period charm, with two-tone interiors on early cars, and the illuminated Wolseley badge on the grille. 

The 1500 combined the Morris Minor’s floorpan and suspension with a more roomy body and the 1.5-litre B-series engine. There were MkI models from 1957 to 1960; MkIIs had concealed bonnet and boot hinges, and arrow-head side trim; while the 1961-1965 MkIII had larger side grilles and rear lamps, and single-tone upholstery on the interior. 

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine                                    1489cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  50bhp@4200rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 71lb ft@2600rpm

Top speed                                78mph

0-60mph                                  24.4sec

Consumption                            35mpg

Gearbox                                    4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

Look carefully for rust on inner and outer front wings, and lift the bonnet to check where they join. The front panel rusts, particularly where it joins the front wings. The bottoms of the rear wings also go, and blocked drain holes will rot the door bottoms. The rear door also goes around the wheelarch, and the wheelarch can be affected.

Underneath, check the sills and floorpan. Move on to the front chassis legs and the crossmember that supports the floor, particularly the mounting-points for the front suspension’s torsion bars. At the back of the car, it’s the rear spring mountings that are vulnerable. There’s very little that can’t be fixed, but major structural repairs are expensive.

ENGINE

The engine is simple and robust, and there are spares galore. A single SU carburettor simplifies tuning, but you usually have to fiddle with the choke while the engine warms up. The B-series may run-on even when in good condition; prolonged and persistent running-on needs proper investigation, though. Expect it to use quite a bit of oil, but really high oil consumption suggests problems. Noise from the valve gear means the clearances must be re-set – in some cases, worn shafts and bushes will have to be replaced first.

Some owners have sought better performance by uprating the engine to Riley One-Point-Five or MGA 1500 specification, which is relatively easy to achieve. Other cars have been converted with modern units such as the Marina’s 1.8-litre. In such cases, the issue is how well the conversion has been achieved. With the Marina engine fitted, uprated brakes are advisable.

RUNNING GEAR

Expect some whine from the gearbox and rear axle, though not too much, and enjoy the high-geared third. The steering should be light, direct and precise, so be wary if it feels heavy. The steering swivels and joints need greasing every 1000 miles, and wear quickly if this is not done. Dry swivel pin joints eventually seize, the pin can shear and the front wheel collapses.

The dampers are Armstrong lever-arm types, and don’t last very long. Some owners have converted to telescopics (which is quite involved), but experts say you’ll get a better result by fitting an aftermarket anti-roll bar kit – though you’ll still have to keep an eye on those dampers.

Brakes are Lockheed drums all round, and not directly interchangeable with the equivalent Riley’s bigger Girling drums. Plenty of roll on corners and axle hop over bumps are only to be expected.

  INTERIOR

The interior combines cost-saving with luxury touches, so the seats have only fore-and-aft adjustment, but wear leather upholstery (the Fleet model from 1959 had Vynide trim). On the 1957-1961 MkI and II cars, the leather is two-tone – there were several combinations, so finding good seats in the right colour from a scrapyard isn’t likely. All cars come with walnut dashboards, complete with large radio speaker in the centre, and with matching door cappings.

OUR VERDICT

If you’re looking for a loveable, affordable classic to enjoy rather than to impress the lads, a Wolseley 1500 would suit you very well. Maintenance isn’t expensive, and if you’ve bought a good one, you won’t have to spend your time scouring autojumbles and small ads for obscure parts. You’ll be able to keep a 1500 on the road easily, but if you’re missing interior trim or chromeware, you might spend a very long time hunting for replacements.

WOLSELEY 15/50 REVIEW

The Wolseley 15/50 came along in 1956 as a replacement for the 4/44, having finally graduated to a 1489cc B-series of its own. Apart from a few trifling differences in chrome trim, there were no other changes, unless you consider an extra fog lamp to be the dawn of a new age. Later cars have a BMC back axle and changed to front wheel cylinders matching those used on the Wolseley 1500. Production continued until 1958, when the 15/50 - and its MG ZB equivalent - was superceded by the 15/60 Farina-bodied family car.

WOLSELEY 4/44 REVIEW

The Wolseley 4/44 appeared at the 1952 Motor Show, complete with 1250cc Nuffield XP engine (XPAW to be precise), column gearchange, rack-and-pinion steering and independent front suspension. Production, however, didn't get underway until 1953, alongside the sportier MG Magnette iant boasting a BMC B-series engine.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine 1250cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power 46bhp@4800rpm

Torque 58lb ft@2400rpm

Top speed 72mph

0-60mph 33sec    

Gearbox 4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

This is the most important matter to consider with one of these cars. The bodyshells were very well built, but the rustproofing was lacking. Only the front doors, bootlid and inner sill/box section are common with the MG Magnette, though some repair panels can be adapted. Secondhand Wolseley wings are to put it mildly, thin on the ground, but with some work you should be able to adapt an MG one, should you be lucky enough to discover such a thing in some farmyard where you're in danger of having a hen sink its teeth into you.

Look for corrosion at the front valances, seam across the wings, tops of the inner wing, front floorpans, rear spring hangers and bootlid. Check the area around the A-posts and look at the splash panels at the rear of each front wheelarch. If there's rot here there's almost certainly been a riot going on inside the sills, and rust can spread into the floor. The inner sills form part of a box section, the good thing being that they are the same as on the MG, and available. The outer sills are unique to the Wolseley and perform less of a strengthening function than the inners.

Less important potential rot spots are the door bottoms and area around the front sidelamps. Also around the front and rear windscreens, where rot can often result from water seepage.

ENGINE

The XPAW engine in the 4/44 is scarcer than the ubiquitous B-series in the 15/50 but you should be able to get just about naything for both. The XPAW engines are rugged but they are prone to leaking oil from the timing cover/front sump joints.

Unless the bodywork is wonderful, a 4/44 with a tired engine is probably best avoided. These engines aren't pleasant when they are worn and parts for an overhaul can be expensive.

TRANSMISSION

The gearbox tends to be long lived and should only be exhibiting wear you can live with, such as worn synchromesh on second and wear to the baulk rings. A sloppy 4/44 gearchange may be due merely to worn linkages or even just the spring at the bottom of the gearchange shaft. 

BRAKES

The 4/44 had Lockheed 9in hydraulic brakes, and you shouldn't have much difficulty getting anything for those at a reasonable price. The master cylinder is a double unit for brake and clutch, but available from several specialists, a stark contrast to the situation a few years ago.

STEERING & SUSPENSION

The 4/44 has an excellent rack-and-pinion set-up, giving surprisingly good handling. Steering racks can go for huge mileages without problems. The front suspension is a coil spring system and semi-elliptic springs at the back, with telescopic dampers all round.

Rubber bushes can perish, but you can replace them. Kingpins wear, and this will happen quickly if they're not kept well-greased. Again, specialists can supply everything you need.

INTERIOR & ELECTRICS

The cars offer a real touch of luxury for their price, with leather seat facings and polished wood. Carpet seats are available from several specialists.

OUR VERDICT

It's great looking vehicle, the interior is the same as much more expensive and temperamental Wolseleys plus the cars are lucky in that the XPAW engine shares components with the MG T series.

Rot is a problem, so think about it before you take on a major project. Otherwise, these are reliable and charismatic cars ready to provide real enjoyment.

WOLSELEY 6/80 REVIEW

Forever associated with stiff upper lip postwar British police films, the Wolseley 6/80 really is well worth seeking out.

‘Long, low and graceful. It fits the Ritz entrance. Doormen stand slightly straighter when it glides up.’

So which car of the late 1940s inspired that bizarre piece of advertising copywriting? Cadillac, Rolls-Royce? No, the Wolseley 6/80.

Yes that very car which to some resembled a bloated Morris Minor with a traditional Wolseley grille stuck on the front when it was introduced alongside that very car at the 1948 Motor Show. The line-up also included a Morris Six, which shared the Wolseley’s larger bodyshell and six-cylinder 2215cc overhead cam engine, though with only one carb, but lacked the Wolseley’s refinements, and, dare we say, presence. The 4/50 was a four-cylinder version of the car but with a shorter bonnet and 1476cc four-cylinder version of the 6/80.

The big Wolseley won a massive fanbase among the police, where its relatively good handling and top speed were very useful. Rather than ‘standing straighter’, many an errant driver would cower into their seat at the sight of the big Wolseley looming up behind.

The car continued in production until 1954, when 25,281 had been produced.

VITAL STATISTICS

ENGINE 2215cc/6 cyl/OHC

POWER 72bhp@4600rpm

TORQUE 101lb ft@2200rpm

MAXIMUM SPEED 80 MPH

0-60MPH 24 sec

FUEL CONSUMPTION 20mph

TRANSMISSION RWD, four-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

ENGINE

Almost a work of art in itself, the cars’ overhead-cam unit is a joy to hear not that hard to work on.

There was one problem that probably led to the death of more of these vehicles than any other – the original valves were really not up to the job. In 1952 the engine was altered, with changes to the cylinder head and waterways, which is felt by those in the know not to have really helped.

There is an easy solution to the problem – to have hardened valves fitted. The Wolseley 6/80 and MO Club - which performs miracles in helping keep the cars on the road, now has stainless steel valves available and can provide a secondhand cylinder head and block. Pistons are shared with the Wolseley 4/44 and available from Shropshire-based FW Thornton.

BODYWORK

As the Nuffield Organisation’s first venture into monocoque construction these cars were extremely strong. The most significant rot area is the bottom of the A-post which is difficult to rectify.

The area where the sills meet the outer edges of the floor needs serious checking, as does the floor around the front mountings of the spring hangers.

Wings can corrode, particularly at the edge where repair sections. Body panels are in extremely short supply, and only available secondhand.

MIND YOUR TRUNNIONS

The torsion bar, twin telescopic damper (except for the lever arm variety on a few early cars) suspension is relatively straightforward. Currently unavailable are the lower suspension trunnions, which need careful greasing to live long term. You might be lucky with something secondhand. The cars have Lockheed brakes and most parts are available.

AUSTRALIA

As we’ve mentioned, many 6/80s went Down Under and the British Wolseley 6/80 and MO Club (which you MUST join) has a huge Aussie contingent, with which it works very closely in sourcing new and used components. Many a Wolseley bit has recrossed the seas!

OUR VERDICT

Even saying the name ‘Wolseley’ brings back a lost, respectable world of tea and a nice scone, and here is probably the greatest example of the marque. Beautifully built and appointed, the car cars are supremely imposing, sound magnificent – the overhead-cam engine was based on an Hispano-Suiza design. The sight through the split windscreen along the imposing bonnet is akin to rounding a corner and finding the Hanging Gardens of Babylon.

A 6/80 will give 80mph to the brave, or at least has little problems in modern traffic, and the torsion bar suspension provides half-reasonable handling for a car of this size and era.

No classic really has more presence the cars have excellent club support and their one-time Achilles heel, valve problems, have long been cured.

Sadly we can’t report a nationwide network of 6/80 specialists but the car does have fantastic club support. Buy one and join them!

ALFA ROMEO 155 REVIEWS

Is it time for the Alfa 155 to emerge from the shadows? Remember its Touring Car Championship heyday, then decide...
 

The 155 was the first Alfa built under Fiat ownership, and the first big Alfa with front-wheel drive, being based on the Tipo platform. IDEA did the wedge-shaped styling. Introduced in 1992, the 155 came initially with Alfa-designed engines; in the UK, we had 1.8 and 2.0 four-cylinder engines, plus a 2.5-litre V6.

From 1995, the Series II cars had wider front tracks, developed from and for racing, and front wing blisters to cover them. They also had two new four-cylinder engines, both with 16-valve Alfa heads and variable inlet cam timing on Fiat blocks.

Rather special were the Cloverleaf model (Lancia Integrale four-wheel drive system plus 190bhp turbocharged 16-valve 2.0-litre) and the 1994 homologation-special Silverstone edition, with adjustable rear spoiler and extendable front air splitter plus the 1.8-litre engine. 

VITAL STATISTICS

ALFA ROMEO 155 2.0 16-valve

Engine                                    1970cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  150bhp@6200rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 138lb ft@4000rpm

Top speed                                130mph

0-60mph                                  8.9sec 

Consumption                           34mpg

Gearbox                                    5-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Sadly, the 155 conforms to the Italian stereotype in that it rusts. It’s not as bad as earlier monocoque Alfas, but you should start by checking round the wheelarch lips, especially at the rear. Open the boot and look around – a damp smell means you should investigate carefully. Although these cars were all undersealed from new, the application seems to have been a bit half-hearted. You’d be wise to get a 155 up on a hoist and have a good poke around with a screwdriver underneath. 

Check the paint, too. A lot of 155s suffer from paint that fades, blisters or loses its lacquer. The cost of a respray will likely exceed the value of the car.

ENGINE

All the four-cylinders are Twin Spark types, and some noise from camshaft and tappets is common but not serious. Only purists will prefer the two-valve types to the later four-valvers, which are more driveable. The penalty is that the later engines have belt-driven camshafts, and the belts need to be changed every 36,000 miles or three years. You have to change the belt for the balancer shaft at the same time. With high mileages comes the need to change the pulleys, tensioners and variator (which alters the timing of the inlet camshaft). Crank position sensors can fail, leaving non-starters. You need to know the service history of these engines.

The V6 is a smaller-capacity derivative of the classic engine that powered the 164 saloons and GTV coupés, and makes glorious noises. Loud noises from the downpipes are unwelcome, though, as they are expensive to replace. Check carefully for overheating, as water pump impellers can crack, and early engines had strange sealing arrangements which give way. Again, these are belt-driven engines and changing the belts is a notoriously difficult job that’s best left to specialists. 

RUNNING GEAR

The gearchange should be slick and the clutch light. Beware of clutch troubles because the engine and gearbox have to come out together for major work. The steering on post-1995 cars (but not the V6) was changed for a faster rack, and this later one is a joy to use. Brakes are discs all round (ventilated at the front), and should need only very light pedal pressure. Enthusiastically-driven cars may well need new discs, so take a good look.

If the steering doesn’t feel right, or the car seems to wander, there will be problems in the front suspension. Bushes and ball-joints are best seen as consumables and aren’t particularly costly. Be prepared to change the front wishbones in their entirety, and listen for a knocking on corners which may indicate worn anti-roll bar bushes.

INTERIOR

The interior has a sporty ambience, with velour upholstery and it features wood on the Super models. Check that all the switches do what they should, because electrical problems (especially with relays) are common. If the car has a sunroof, check that it works properly.

OUR VERDICT

The Alfa 155 is one of those distinctive cars from the early 1990s that haven’t yet acquired classic status. They have gained a kind of cult status, though, and that’s a double-edged sword. Some are being properly looked after, while others are being run into the ground just because they are cheap and ‘different’. So you should bear all that in mind before jumping head-first into ownership. Buy one because you like the car, because you’d always wanted one when you were younger, or because you want distinctive everyday transport. Don’t expect to make money on it in the short term, but do enjoy it for what it is.

ALFA ROMEO ALFASUD REVIEW

Full of promise, the Alfasud showed what a hot hatch could be before it even gained a hatchback. If only it hadn’t rusted so badly.

The little Alfasud’s design set standards for small saloons despite the questionable build quality. Giugiaro’s fastback body was attractive, and came with four doors from the 1971 start or as a two-door TI with twin-carb engines from 1974. Hatchbacks were unforgivably late arrivals in 1981. By then, the car had been facelifted with plastic fairings. 

Engines were always flat-fours driving the front wheels, starting with 1186cc, then 1286cc, 1490cc and 1350cc. Production ended in 1983, giving way to the Alfa 33. 

VITAL STATISTICS

ALFA ROMEO ALFASUD 1.5 TI

Engine                                    1490cc/4-cyl/OHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  93bhp@5800rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 96lb ft@4000rpm

Top speed                                115mph

0-60mph                                  10.1sec 

Consumption                           30mpg

Gearbox                                    5-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

The Alfasud’s pretty little body was its undoing, especially on early cars. Corrosion protection improved from 1982, but before then was almost non-existent. 

Rust on the main panels will be obvious, as will rust on the sills, which are structural. Underneath, beware of newly-applied underseal!

Check the whole front panel, the inner wings, behind the headlights, and the front chassis ‘legs’. Front footwells rot out if the windscreen has leaked. The door bottoms rust through when their drain holes are blocked, and the panel below the side windows rots on two-door cars. 

At the rear, have a good look in the wells on either side of the boot floor, examine the area around the jacking points (just ahead of the wheelarches), and look at the under-bumper valance. Watch for rust breaking out behind the plastic body addenda on later cars; it’s hard to see in the early stages, but check you must!

ENGINE

The Alfasud engines were flat-fours with a single overhead camshaft, and a surprisingly "interesting" exhaust note which sounds very Italian! The TI models have twin carburettors and can be prone to rough idling. Early engines were smoother than the later, larger-capacity types.

Oil and cambelt changes (there are two belts) are absolutely critical to the long-term survival of an Alfasud engine, so when buying you need to see the service history or at least assess the likely diligence of the seller in attending to maintenance. Listen for a harsh rattle on start-up which indicates that the bearings are on the way out. The same noise at 3000rpm from a hot engine confirms the problem.

RUNNING GEAR

All the gearboxes are manuals, with four speeds on lesser models and five speeds on TIs and other later cars. They are fairly tough but become noisy as wear sets in, and may lose second-gear synchromesh. They are always noisy at idle. The change is sporty, with a short throw, and should be quite slick. Do make sure that there are no problems with the clutch, because a clutch change demands taking the engine out. 

The inboard front discs are not easy to work on; access is particularly restricted on the later twin-carburettor cars. That has inevitably led owners to leave pad changes to the very last minute, and so scored discs are a fairly common malady. So is oil on the discs, thrown out from engine or gearbox.  

INTERIOR

The dashboard is pretty uninspiring stuff, while the seats have very 1970s fabric upholstery although they are comfortable enough. Disappointingly, the rear backrest does not fold forwards on the 1980s hatchback models. The driving position is relatively inflexible, too; you’ll either fit or you won’t! 

Expect squeaks and rattles from the plastic trim.

OUR VERDICT

You’ll want an Alfasud because there is just so much about the design that is spot-on. It’s a practical little saloon with enough room for the kids or the in-laws, and it doesn’t advertise its fun quotient. 

Yet it delivers that fun by the bucket-load, thanks to a lovely rorty exhaust note, tight front-wheel drive handling, quick rack-and-pinion steering and rapid acceleration.

WOLSELEY HORNET (1930) REVIEW

The Wolseley Hornet was introduced in 1931 alongside the Viper series, whose price and body styles were a departure from the previous 12 and 16 hp models, proving to be an immediate and phenomenal successs.  The Hornet was fitted with a 12 hp six cylinder ohv engine, and made available as a fabric saloon, coachbuilt saloon, or a sports two-seater - all options with just two doors.  These were all considerably reduced in weight compared to previous models, with wire wheels replacing the previous models artillery wheel.  Lightweight pattern bumpers were also fitted, with the exception of the two seater sports being without bumpers.

In 1932 the Hornet range was extended to also include a 4 door light saloon, and a 2 door occasional four seater coupe.  The existing variants also continued: 2 door coachbuilt saloon, 2 door fabric saloon, semi-sports 2 seater, and 2 seater coupe.  Differences from the 1931 are minor, for instance the wheelnuts are now enclosed under a round steel chrome plated hubcap. 

For 1933 the range was reduced to a light 4 door saloon, occasional four coupe.  A new Hornet Special in chassis only form was introduced - bodywork being fitted by outside specialist coachbuilders.  The enamel grill badge was replaced with an illuminated Wolseley badge.  Trafficators were added to the front and rear above the number plate.

In 1934 the addition of a 'Free-wheel model' option on the 4-door saloon was added, and the trafficators relocated to the door pillars.

Initially in 1935 the options of Preselector 12/6 Saloon, or Occasional Four Coupe with a larger 14 hp engine were offered.

On 29th April 1935 the 'Series' models of Wolseley were introduced - replacing the former 'yearly' range of models.  This new Hornet being larger, and also distinguishable by the inclusion of easiclean wheels of the pressed steel type.

WOLSELEY HORNET (MINI) REVIEW

With longer, slightly finned rear wings and larger boot capacity, the Wolseley Hornet was billed as a more luxurious, upmarket version of the Mini. The Hornet also has a higher quality interior trim and more external chrome than the original mini. The Riley Elf was introduced as a sporty version.

In the original Wolseley Hornet sales brochure the car was described as a small car with a big inside, big enough for family motoring, big enough for long distance touring where comfort and luggage capacity are essentials.

The exceptional economy of B.M.C mini motoring and the altogether outstanding road performance that goes with it are now so well-known as to become significant of a new and refreshing way of motoring. Lively acceleration, excellent road holding and cornering characteristics, together with compact dimensions to facilitate manoeuvring and parking are features which have never before seen so effectively combined in a four seat saloon.

Over its 8 years, it had two minor facelifts, the first of which in 1963, saw the original Mini 850 engine replaced by the Cooper's 998cc. This gave added speed and better performance. The Mark III, launched in 1966, featured wind-up windows, and integral door hinges - features not seen on the Mini until 1969.

The car was killed off, in both guises, with the axing of all Riley Models in 1969, and was indirectly replaced by the Mini Clubman Models. In total 30,912 Riley Elfs were built. During the same period 28,455 Hornets built.

Alfa Romeo GTV/SPIDER 916 REVIEW

It may be one of the cheapest routes into classic Alfa ownership, but is the 916-series GTV a safe bet? We find out...

The coupé and Spider tend to appeal to different driving styles. The soft-top is arguably at its very best in V6 guise, the better to hear that amazing howl and tune out the inevitable scuttle shake and understeer-prone handling. As such, it works best as a quasi-grand tourer, and suits a more laid-back driving style.

Hardcore drivers, meanwhile, tend to gravitate to the 2.0-litre Twin Spark coupés – this is an engine that simply begs to be revved hard, and its lighter weight renders the front-drive handling less prone to pushing on ahead in the corners. Factor in the greater shell rigidity offered by the coupé body and an engine noise that’s almost – but not quite – a match for the V6, and it’s noticeably the better driver’s car.

It’s wise to try before you bu, though. The cabin might look amazing, – especially when swathed in ribbed Momo leather – but the driving position is still very Italian and doesn’t suit everyone, with taller drivers in particular often finding it difficult to get comfortable in the coupé.

VITAL STATISTICS

1997 ALFA ROMEO GTV 2.0 TWIN SPARK

Engine                                    1970cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  155bhp@6400rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 138lb ft@3500rpm

Top speed                                134mph

0-60mph                                  8.4sec

Consumption                            32mpg 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

For once, there should be no evidence of rust anywhere on any of these cars, since they were galvanised at the factory, and every panel forward of the scuttle beneath the windscreen is made from a special plastic composite. A damaged bonnet clamshell is bad news, since it is pricey to replace. Rot anywhere else on a 916 can only be as a result of badly-repaired accident damage, so walk away. Likewise if you find uneven panel gaps, panel bolts that have obviously been disturbed or overspray.

Look down both flanks and check for impact damage. GTVs left the factory with no bodyside protection mouldings and so are vulnerable to unwanted attentions of neighbouring parked cars. Dents in the characteristic bodyside slash are particularly tricky to repair, so adjust the asking price to suit. Fading paint – especially on red cars – and lifting lacquer are common. A localised re-spray is the only answer.

ENGINE

Low oil on the dipstick points to indifferent maintenance, which is bad news on the Twin Spark engine in particular since it is known to use oil and requires weekly inspection. A loud rattling on 2.0-litre cars from cold means the cam variator is not long for this world. Oil cooler pipes corrode on V6s and are difficult to replace – expensive, too, since the radiator usually needs replacing at the same time.

Ask for evidence of cambelt changes. Alfa Romeo dictates 72,000-mile intervals for both 2.0-litre and V6 cars, but the general consensus is that they should be replaced every 36,000 miles. A full service history is a must, too – many owners fail to twig that a Twin Spark engine has twice the number of spark plugs usually fitted to a ‘four’, which in turn bumps up servicing costs. Any corner-cutting here will do the engine no good. A car that feels down on power probably just needs a new air flow meter.

ELECTRICS

Only buy a car that’s missing its brown master ignition key if you are absolutely sure of its provenance (or the car is extremely cheap), since rectifying a problem as simple as a flat battery can soon lead to big bills without it. Make sure you have the security code for the stereo, too.

RUNNING GEAR

Running gear is pretty bullet-proof, so graunching gearshifts point to a neglected or routinely badly-driven car. Clutches that only bite at the very top of the pedal travel are overdue replacement and only keep going by dint of their self-adjusting design. An excessively heavy clutch pedal on a V6 is often evidence of a slipping friction plate.

Noticeable slop in the corners (especially if accompanied by an irritatingly loud squeak) is almost certainly doesn to worn suspension bushes. This is a particular problem on 2.0-litre cars since the rear bush contains a steel insert that, if left for long enough, will eat into the aluminium subframe.

BRAKES

Make sure that the three main self-diagnostic dashboard warning lights (for the engine management system, airbags and anti-lock braking system) go out shortly after you start the engine. If they remain on (or don’t come on at all), then either the dashboard lights have failed or (more likely) there’s bad news lurking within one or more of these systems.

INTERIOR

Interior trim is generally pretty durable, but the side bolster eventually wears on the driver’s seat, whether it’s vinyl or leather trim. Make sure everything – windows, mirrors, air conditioning, stereo, sunroof – operates as it should. Failure to work could be down to something as simple as a blown fuse, but could also be indicative of something more serious.

OUR VERDICT

As with most Alfas, you tend to buy a 916 more with your heart than your head. You certainly don’t buy one for practicality, since the cabin is essentially a two-seater (token rear seats aside) and the boot is capable of swallowing a folding toothbrush, but not much else. No, the 916 unashamedly plucks at your heart strings, with its slash-sided Pinifarina-designed flanks and potent, tuneful engines.

They’re temptingly priced, too – most of the best ones won’t set you back by much over £5000, good foot-soldiers command no more than a couple of grand and, for those in possession of brave pills, serviceable ones are readily available for under £1000.

All generate addictive, sonorous top-end power, but the Twin Spark models tend to be more popular since they’re generally acknowledged as the better handler and cost less to run.

Actually, who are we kidding? Hang the expense, get yourself a soulful V6, and move into a house built next to a nice, long tunnel!

A 916 GTV can be hugely rewarding, offering as it does a brilliant steer and blinding value for money. Buy carefully, though – they’re colour-sensitive, so cars painted anything other than Alfa Red, black or silver can be hard to sell on again. Likewise, Alfisti prefer a leather interior and Teledial alloy wheels above all else. The pick of the crop? Budget £3000 on an early (pre- facelift) solid red/black leather GTV coupé 2.0.

Alfa%20Romeo Spider

WOLSELEY LANDCRAB (1964-1975) REVIEW

‘Landcrab’ may not sound like much of a term of endearment, but there’s plenty to love about BMC’s under-rated family saloon, not least as it’s available at bargain prices

Wolseley Landcrab (1964-1975) Review

If the 1100 and 1300 took all the best bits of the Mini and added space with practicality, the 1800 and 2200 took the concept to its ultimate conclusion, with a seriously roomy cabin and comfort levels way beyond anything a Mini owner could ever imagine. But despite its great dynamics, comfort and space, the 1800 and later the 2200, together known as the Landcrab, never really captured buyers’ imaginations.  

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine                                    1798cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  86bhp@5300rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 101lb ft@3000rpm

Top speed                                93mph

0-60mph                                  16.3sec

Consumption                           27mpg

Gearbox                                   4-sp man/4-sp auto

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Most Landcrabs have been welded by now. Most rust-prone is the MkIII, with its thinner steel, but all can suffer rotten sills and jacking points; cover sills are common. Rusty floorpans are likely too, so lift the carpets to check from inside and get underneath too.

The rear wheelarches are double-skinned, making repairs trickier, but they’re fairly hardy. Doors can rust because of blocked drain holes, but Maxi items are a straight swap for MkII and MkIII Landcrabs. Also check the headlamp surrounds.

The rear of the front and rear wheelarches rot badly, as can the trailing edge of the bootlid and bonnets along the front edge.

ENGINE

The six-cylinder engines are less stressed than the B-series units, but also less durable; you’ll get 100,000 miles out of a 2.2-litre powerplant, but 150,000 from an 1800 unit. 

The B-series engine sounds tappety even when set up properly. At tickover expect 15-25psi oil pressure and 50-65psi at 3000rpm. Anything less means the crankshaft is worn – which means an engine rebuild – or the oil pump is on its way out.

Crankcase breather pipes get blocked, causing oil to be burned; the plastic oil filler cap is a consumable to be replaced every 12,000 miles. 

Oil consumption can also be through worn valve guides or stem seals, so check for smoke when you apply the throttle after the over-run. Oil leaks are common too, from the front and rear crankshaft seals, and the tappet chest side covers behind the exhaust manifold.

RUNNING GEAR

The 1800’s carbon clutch release bearing wears quickly; feel for a vibration through the clutch pedal. Autos are rare – the Borg-Warner Type T35 differs in detail from the standard unit but it’s possible to fit an Ambassador or Princess unit, with detail modifications.

The Hydrolastic suspension is reliable if the displacers are pumped up every five years or so. The problems don’t lie with the displacers – it’s the hoses which lead into them that give up.

Also check the rubber doughnut driveshaft coupling for cracks and splits, on manual 1.8-litre cars, which wears; the coupling between the steering column and rack can suffer the same ailment.

On cars with power-assisted steering, fluid may be leaking from the hose unions, reservoir or hydraulic ram. At worst you’ll have to fit a reconditioned steering rack, with a kit of seals available from the club for around £15 or a rebuilt unit weighing in at £100 or so.

The braking system is usually trouble-free, but the brake servo is expensive to replace at £225, so make sure it’s working okay. MkII and MkIII Landcrabs use an MGC unit.

INTERIOR

All MkIIIs suffer from poor quality carpets, but the Wolseley Six suffers especially from disintegrating brushed nylon seat trim and headlinings.

There’s good interchangeability with the electrical components, although the Wolseley had its own rear lights throughout production. MkI Austin and Morris cars had different rear lights and the MkII and MkIII cars had different units again. 

OUR VERDICT

The Landcrab has much to recommend it, with comfort and space especially prominent on the menu. With trim and panels hard to find you have to think twice about taking on a major restoration project, and with good examples worth relatively little you’re much better buying one that doesn’t need anything significant doing to it.