A best seller makes sense as a family-friendly classic...
The Mini’s bigger brother, codenamed ADO16 during its development, was available as an Austin, Morris, MG, Wolseley, Riley and Vanden Plas, although the basic front-wheel drive package remained largely the same throughout. Both 1.1- and 1.3-litre A-Series engines were offered, and the range as a whole quickly became the nation’s best-selling car.
The Austin Twelve was designated The Salesmans Joy, and a most ready seller, nearly 70,000 being sold up to 1930.
Launched in late 1921, the Twelve owed its success to Austins superior build quality and the soundness of basic design, the model becoming a by-word for indestructibility. The Twelve engine was a five-bearing magneto ignition side-valve four, displacing 1,861cc from 1927 for which the factory claimed 27bhp at just 2,000rpm, sufficient for 40-45mph cruising, at which speed the Twelve returned around 26mpg.
Effective four-wheel brakes meant that the Twelve coped with sudden emergencies better than many of its contemporary rivals. Enduringly popular and a very attractive model, the Twelve remains a favourite with Austin enthusiasts.
They're probably the closest things to teddy bears on wheels, but buy a bad A30/A35 and it could be more of a gremlin...
After many decades in the doldrums these tiny saloons are finally beginning to be more widely appreciated for the brilliant concept that they were - helped no doubt by the sight of their giant-killing attempts in historic saloon racing.
Modern small cars are finally giving more than 50mpg, but 50 to 60 years ago, both the Austin A30 and the A35 could easily return 50mpg up hill and down dale, and if you really tried more than 60mpg was possible. Its secret was low weight and a small engine with a tiny Zenith 26 carburettor.
They were revolutionary when new - monocoque construction, brand-new overhead valve engine, tiny 13in wheels (even the Morris Minor had 14in), good handling aided by a rear anti-roll bar, four-speed three-synchro gearbox and four doors in such a compact package. Including the very popular vans, well over half a million were built.
Original 803cc cars are fine on level ground but struggle a bit on hills - there's a big gap between third gear and top so you have to slog up at 30mph in top. A35s had more power and a higher third gear, so are much more usable. Many have been fitted with larger, later engines - and providing the conversion has been carried out well, with the right gearbox, they should easily keep up with modern traffic.
VITAL STATISTICS
1951-68
Engine 803/848/948/1098cc ohv four-cylinder with single SU carb
Power and Torque A30: 28bhp @ 4800rpm; 40lb ft @2 400rpm. A35: 34bhp @ 4750rpm; 50lb ft @ 2000rpm
Transmission Four-speed three-synchro manual, rear-wheel drive
Top speed 64-72mph
0-60mph 42.3/30.1 sec
Economy 40-50mpg
WHAT TO LOOK OUT FOR
Rot
This is the biggest enemy. Vans are worst, especially the last ones, which were made from thinner-gauge steel and had waistline trims under which rust begins. The rear spring hangers are trickiest to repair, especially the rearmost ones where the bumper mountings and rear wing corners also meet. Ideally you need a jig to ensure alignment is correct when welding in new panels. The front hangers of the rear springs are rot-prone too. Be wary of any car where the doors are drooping. It could be something as simple as worn hinges, but it could also point to rot in the A-posts, which is difficult to repair.
Although original Austin panels are now rare, quite a few handy repair ones are available, and the club also stocks a great deal of bits that might be needed.
Sill box section
Behind the lower corner of the front wing the sill box section continues forwards, stepped in and protected by a rubber seal between wing and sill. The rubber perishes and lets in water and mud, which then rots right through the sill box section, the wing and the bottom door hinge area - open the door to check this area for rot and filler. Repair is complex, usually necessitating removing the wing, door and adjacent interior trim.
Rust
Other areas where rust is found include the box section supporting the radiator and tying the front end together, sills, floors, bottoms of doors (especially rear doors and their shut faces on four-door cars), front valances, bootlids and rear wings above the wheelarches.
Interior trim
Interior trim is not available in kits, so unless you're very hands-on, retrimming is a bespoke job for a professional retrimmer. The original Rexine leathercloth is usually replaced with vinyl; leather was a rare option, almost never seen today. The headlining is woolcloth and difficult to clean and even more diffcult to replace if very grimy. They must be stretched and stitched to the frame, which is then clipped in place.
Any electrical problems are usually down to corroded earths, looms going hard or bad DIY fitment of accessories - look for the trademark bullet connectors. Otherwise the car's wiring system is extremely simple. Mazak interior trim items tend to get pitted.
Engine
The engines are shared with Morris Minors (and in the case of the 948, with A40 Farinas and early Sprites/Midgets), so most parts are readily available and fairly cheap.
The 803 is costliest to rebuild and is also weaker, relying on bypass oil filtration and small bearings. It needs frequent oil and filter changes and is often worn out by 50,000 miles - once the crank is worn beyond limits, you'll struggle to find another. The 948 engine is strongest, the 1098 being quicker to knock out its big ends. Upgrading a car with a more powerful A-series is common and not that frowned upon by enthusiasts.
On all the engines, blue exhaust smoke on start-up and on the overrun signals oil bein gburnt, probably due to worn piston rings and bores. An uneven idle speed could be down to carburettor issues but may also point to burnt valves. Valve gear and timing chain rattle is common, but should be able to be adjusted if it is too loud. Oil leaks are almost inevitable, but there shouldn't be a slick underneath.
Unleaded conversion has not yet been done on most cars, as many years running on leaded and gentle use means valve seat recession is slow. When required, converted cylinder heads are readily available.
Gearbox
Gearboxes are generally long-lived, with weak synchromesh on second usually the first sign of age. The A30 gearbox is shorter with a long 'wand' gearlever and parts are harder to find; 948 gearboxes were much stronger. The A35s, with its remote stick, has more pleasant gearchanges than the A30.
Converting A30s to a later gearbox is possible but involved, requiring an enlarged gearbox tunnel, shorter propshaft and either a repositioned gearlever or adapting the later gearbox to the wand type. Alternatively, A35 gear clusters can be fitted to the A30 gearbox. Ribbed-case gearboxes from 1098 BMC cars are strongest and a straight swap for A35s. If reconditioning is needed, you get what you pay for - some in the past were of very dubious quality.
Disappearing synchromesh is likely on the high mileage cars, with second likely to be the first casualty. A noisy gearbox suggests the bearings are wearing out. Propshaft universal and halfshafts are also prone to wearing out eventually, but replacement isn't that costly or difficult. Clutches should see about 100,000 miles of use before they need replacing, while rear diffs should be double that unless they've been allowed to run low on oil - which does happen, as they are prone to leaking. A whining means this has probably happened.
Hydro-mechanical brakes
Hydro-mechanical brakes (mechanical rear operated by a single hydraulic cylinder in the middle) can be a weakness and must be set up properly to work efficiently.
The front cylinders are prone to seize from water ingress and lack of use; new-old-stock cylinder supply is running out, soBull Motif hopes to be making new ones soon. At the back, oil leaks from the back axle into the brakes can be fiddly to cure - look behind the wheels for tell-tale dampness.
Steering
The steering is unique to the car and, although robust, the box and the six balljoints wear. The idler is more likely to seize than to wear significantly - check it if the stering is heavy. Check the steering box for leaks and wear; there are three variants. Shock absorbers wear and reconditioned ones are of poor quality.
Front suspension
Leaks from the steering box will lead to wear here. One way that people try to tackle is it overtightening, which will help in the short term but will eventually accelerate the wear and result in tight steering. Make sure the steering centres after a corner.
Front suspension needs frequent lubrication to 12 grease nipples to keep it supple and unworn - if they aren't, they will rapidly deteriorate and sloppy handling will be the result. If you suspect this, jack the car up and try to rock each wheel top to bottom while somebody presses the brake. Check for wear in the kingpins (which Bull Motif can replace with a complete unit that avoids the need for honing).
Wishbone bushes also wear out and aren't easily replaced - most people just change the wishbones as a whole. Lever arm dampers are fitted all around but lose their efficiency, especially if leakages have occurred. Front coil springs and rear leaf springs can also crack and sag - you should be able to see the top of each tyre under its wheelarch. Rear shackle pin asssemblies also need greasing every 1000 miles, otherwise handling will be badly affected.
Non-servo assisted drum brakes are quite straightforward, but handbrakes often lose their effectiveness due to linkage wear and amateurish adjustment.
OUR VERDICT
They're not fast (not in standard form at least, though they are very easily tuned), but they are fun and are very easy to own and drive.
The A30/35 Owners' Club does an excellent job of co-ordinating spares supply and assisting owners. Many parts were shared with Minors and much of the running gear was carried forward into the Sprite and Midget range, and the A-series engine that started life in the A30 in 1951 was in use in Minis until 2000, so most service parts are very cheap.
The A30 and A35 are the kind of cars that bring out the affection in everybody. Assuming you keep on top of the body care and lubricate the suspension every 1000 miles, they're very simple to look after, cost peanuts to run and are eminently usable and entertaining vehilces to own. Assuming you don't mind taking the pace of life just a little slower...
For a spacious British classic consider the Austin A55...
The first thing to strike you getting into an A55 is the sense of spaciousness – one of the key selling points when it was new. The thin pillars provide great visibility and enhance its ease of use on today’s roads. A large, well-shaped boot means four-up touring is well within the scope of this comfortable classic. But it’s behind the lovely thin-rimmed wheel where the big Austin proves most enjoyable, the well-weighted steering and comfortable ride making light work of long journeys.
For a car of this size, the 1.5-litre B-Series engine provides ample performance, and while acceleration is hardly electric, as you might expect, it doesn’t leave you struggling to keep up with the flow of traffic either. Response from the SU carburettor-fed unit should be smooth and linear on a well-tuned example and while cabin noise increases noticeably once over 50mph, the engine rarely feels particularly strained. Despite a fairly hefty kerb weight, a well-sorted A55 handles well, further adding to its long-distance touring credentials.
VITAL STATISTICS
AUSTIN A55 FARINA
Engine 1489cc/4-cyl/OHV
Power (bhp@rpm) 52bhp@4350rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 82lb ft@2100rpm
Top speed 78mph
0-60mph 23.6sec
Consumption 28mpg
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
There are some well-known rot spots that need careful checking if extensive refurbishment is to be avoided. Key areas are the inner and outer sills, rear wheel arches, the headlight surrounds, and the back of the front wings where they meet the sills. Be sure to check the boot floor and rear bulkhead along with the A-posts, but to be honest all of the panels are at risk on the A55, so it pays not to rush any checks here. The good news is that just about all panels are available from clubs or specialists.
Take a good look at the chrome too – there is plenty of it on an A55 and replacement and refurbishment costs will soon mount. Some trim parts were also cast in Mazak zinc alloy and these can be difficult to find now, as well as tricky to restore, so worth bearing in mind if parts are missing or in poor condition.
Although the A55 uses a monocoque bodyshell, there are still a number of ‘chassis’ rails and box sections that need careful examination. The point where rail and outrigger meet below the front footwells
is a known rust spot – many have had a triangular repair made here and while not original, is much stronger. The box-section crossmember behind the front valance often succumbs to rust and can be a tricky repair, although the iron crossmember that supports the engine is often protected by leaking oil! Cracks can appear where the steering box mounts to the chassis so it’s worth checking for this.
ENGINE
The 1489cc engine is often considered among the best of the B-Series units and is capable of racking-up substantial mileages if well-maintained. Oil leaks are the bane of many an owner’s life, the crankshaft oil seals being a particular weak point. Watch too for water leaks. Worn pistons or cylinder bores will lead to plenty of blue smoke from the exhaust, and while an engine re-build is a realistic DIY task, oil pressure of 50-60psi when warm will provide some reassurance that things are healthy. Excessive noise from the top of the engine indicates valve-gear or timing chain wear. Corroded radiators, water leaks, and subsequent head gasket failure are also common problems to look out for.
RUNNING GEAR
The four-speed manual gearbox (which lacks synchro on first gear) is a strong unit and rarely gives trouble – a test drive will reveal any issues. Interestingly, while the majority of cars had a floor-change, a column-change arrangement was optional, although it appears that few cars were built in this spec. A whining rear axle will also be obvious on the move but rarely leads to complete failure.
The suspension set-up is thoroughly conventional, with coil springs and wishbones up front and a live axle and semi-elliptic leaf springs aft. Oil leaks from the Armstrong lever arm dampers are worth watching for as are sagging rear leaf springs, but neither are costly to replace. A check for rot around front suspension mountings and rear spring hangers is advised, though. The cam and lever steering will get excessively sloppy over time. However, rebuilding or replacing the steering box and
steering joints is a cost-effective way to bring a tired example up to scratch. Brakes are drums all round, originally with Girling hydraulics, and while they can be tricky to set up properly, seized or leaking wheel cylinders on little-used cars is the most likely issue to
come across.
INTERIOR
Leather trim was standard on the A55 and, while tidying a scruffy cabin is a relatively straightforward task, some parts are getting scarce and the cost of a major refurbishment needs to be factored into the asking price. Reproduction carpets are easily available, but leather will be expensive as more than two hides were used to make the upholstery. Watch too for leaks from front or rear screen seals that may have damaged trim or allowed rust to take hold. If you can find an example fitted with options such as a radio and electric clock,
so much the better, but all cars came with three ashtrays as standard, which may, or may not, be handy!
OUR VERDICT
If comfort, space, and ease of use rank high on your list of priorities for a classic car, then you’re likely to enjoy what the A55 has to offer. The car represents the most pure Farina styling of the range. Good parts availability and simple, robust engineering only add to the appeal.
There is no ignoring the fact that rot can be a major factor with these cars but many have already been restored, so find a good one and we’re pretty sure you won’t be disappointed. And with plenty of chrome and optional two-tone paintwork, you’ll get a welcome dash of style too. Don’t hammer them down the motorway, but cruise at 60mph and they’re fine.
Considered to be a poor-man’s Bentley when it was new, we discover the Sheerline’s charms...
The big Austin is all about space and luxury and they are the first things to hit you when you step aboard. Acres of fine leather and beautifully polished wood provide a great ambience, and while the square-faced instruments mightn’t be everyone’s cup of tea, there is no doubting the craftsmanship involved.
Underway, the torquey straight six is refined and performance is more than adequate given the hefty kerb-weight, while the long wheelbase provides a supremely comfortable ride – you can certainly see why the Sheerline was compared to Bentleys of the day. As you might expect from something so large, this is a car that is all about wafting its occupants around in comfort so handling dynamics don’t really enter the equation. That said the independent front suspension and leaf-sprung live axle cope admirably with the bulk if you decide to press on and the drum brakes are more than up to the job. Frankly though you wouldn’t want to push things – instead sit back and enjoy the luxury on offer knowing you’re behind the wheel of one Britain’s finest post-WW2 models.
VITAL STATISTICS
Austin A12/5 Sheerline
Engine 3995cc/6-cyl/OHV
Power (bhp@rpm) 130bhp@3700rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 150lb ft@2000rpm
Top speed 81mph
0-60mph 19.4sec
Consumption 13mpg
Gearbox 4-spd manual/4-spd auto opt.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
Major restoration of such a large car can be an expensive prospect, so careful checks of the bodywork and separate chassis are needed. The steel chassis is considered bulletproof but easy to repair if necessary, while the rear edge of the front wings, the lid of the spare wheel compartment, and the boot lid corners are potential rot spots. Beneath the steel skin of the doors is a wooden frame which can rot away, so any doubts over their integrity should ring alarm bells. Bear in mind too that replacement panels are almost impossible to source, so it’ll be a case of repairing what’s there or letting-in fresh metal. Interestingly Sheerlines were fitted with a ‘Jackall’ internal jacking system, operated by a hydraulic pump that allowed all four wheels to be lifted at once. It is worth checking to see if this is still operational.
While on the exterior, take a good look at the chrome-work and light fittings. The latter are hard to find now so may have been replaced with non-original parts, while the huge Lucas P100 headlamps can cost a few hundred pounds each to replace. Items such as door locks and handles are equally rare so take the time to ensure everything is present and correct. It’s worth checking the operation of the sliding steel sunroof as a re-build is labour intensive, and ensure that leaking seals haven’t caused water damage inside.
ENGINE
The 4.0-litre engine is derived from the Austin K-Series truck and is strong and reliable with proper care, and the simple construction means a re-build is fairly straightforward. If there’s a weakness it’s the cooling system, considered to be the result of squeezing a big engine into a poorly-ventilated engine bay. Overheating will likely result in a blown head gasket so it check for any evidence of this. Recent radiator refurbishment or replacement is good news as is the fitting of a modern electric fan which pretty much cures the problem. Engines can suffer from fuel vapourisation, cured by insulating the pipes around the carburettor.
ELECTRICS
A thorough check of the electrical system is recommended too. The braided wiring may have started to deteriorate – always a risk with old cars – while items such as control boxes and instruments are very hard to find now which means re-building original components.
RUNNING GEAR
The four-speed manual gearbox is also lorry-based with all the strength that implies. It’s generally trouble-free although problems selecting gears are likely to be caused by wear in the column change linkage. It’s an easy fix though. Wear in the propshaft joints or an especially noisy differential will be apparent on the test drive.
The running gear is robust, but there are a few things worth checking for. The hefty kerb weight puts a strain on the lever-arm dampers and rear leaf springs so check these aren’t leaking or sagging respectively while joints and bushes may be ready for an overhaul, the track rod ends particularly. The steering’s cam gear can’t be adjusted so a re-build will be needed if it’s worn. The non-servo hydraulic drum brakes are up to the task but look for signs of leaking wheel cylinders – original-spec replacements are costly but specialists can re-sleeve them instead. The handbrake was poor even when new so ensure it holds the car on a slope.
INTERIOR
The cabin of a Sheerline was an object lesson in the use of high quality materials, with features such as Wilton carpets and a wool cloth headlining adding to the luxury feel. That means a decrepit interior will be seriously costly to restore, most likely needing professional attention, so don’t ignore trim in poor condition. Take a good look at the horn rim on the Bakelite steering wheel – the original Mazak part is almost impossible to find and may have been replaced with a stainless steel item. Lastly, check for evidence of water leaks from the rear screen – an issue even when new which may have damaged the trim, or worse allowed rust to take hold.
OUR VERDICT
The Sheerline is a fine blend of simplicity, reliability, and comfort and those attributes alone would be enough to swing it for most buyers. It enjoys a degree of exclusivity compared to other luxury cars of the day, which is an added attraction – you’re unlikely to be disappointed if you were to choose one of these over a Bentley. Finding a good one is the key though as the quality of its construction (not to mention its sheer size) means major restoration work will sap funds depressingly quickly. There are probably few finer ways to travel though.
Practicality meets affordability with the Farina range...
In 1958 the British Motor Corporation enrolled the help of Italian designer Battista Farina to revamp its range of saloon cars, including the Oxford V, which arrived in 1959. The car was joined in the ‘Farina’ lineup by the Wolseley 15/60, Riley 4/68, Austin A55 Cambridge and the MG Magnette, which came on stream between 1958 and 1959.
VITAL STATISTICS
Austin A55 CAMBRIDGE
Engine 1489cc/4-cyl/OHV
Power (bhp@rpm) 55bhp@4400rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 81lb ft@2000rpm
Top speed 78mph
0-60mph 25.4sec
Consumption 29mpg
Gearbox 4-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
As with most cars of this era, rust is the main issue. Mechanical components can be replaced with ease, but a rotten body will be considerably more difficult – and therefore expensive – to put right. Wheel arches and sills are the first place to check as they’re usually the first areas to rot. Ensure you feel right up inside the bodywork for any crustiness. Surface rust isn’t the end of the world, but keep an eye out for rotten, soft patches. Wings can rot by headlamps and at the lower rear - check for GRP replacements and negotiate the price you’re about to pay accordingly if it bothers you.
Rust isn’t just a cosmetic issue with these cars – it could be terminal. Give A-posts a thorough inspection, and also pay close attention to chassis rails and outriggers. Any rust here could be a death sentence for the car. It’s best to get the vehicle on ramps for this check, and to employ the services of a garage if you’re unsure what to look for. If you don’t have access to a garage lift, sagging doors can indicate A-post trouble and is not to be ignored. Open each door then gently lift to check for this.
ENGINE
In 1959 all the BMC Farinas were fitted with the tried and tested 1.5-litre B-series engine mated to a four-speed manual gearbox, both of which were well known for being built to last. These four-cylinder engines have been known to last as long as 150,000 miles and are tougher than their 6-cylinder C-Series counterparts, which came in later.
Don’t be overly concerned by minor oil leaks. Checking the driveway or garage floor will be a good indicator. Some smoke is to be expected on startup and should be of little concern, but a whisper-quiet engine suggests over-tight tappets, which will burn out with time.
Four-speed manual gearboxes are strong, but are well known for a weak synchromesh on second gear. It’s worth checking this on your test drive – if its fine you can assume the ‘box is in good condition. Clutches can last nearly as long as the engine, so if it needs to be replaced its likely a one-time job.
RUNNING GEAR
While the majority of components are quite rugged, the BMC Farinas Achilles’ heel was steering and suspension. While the steering is never going to be pin-sharp, excessive vagueness can be a real problem. Some adjustment of the steering box is possible, but if the problem remains its likely caused by worn cross member mounting bushes. Replacing these items is a major undertaking and will cost a small fortune.
Early cars have a number of grease nipples, which need attention every few thousand miles – quiz the seller to check they haven’t been neglected. For this reason, avoid cars that have sat for any length of time on a dealer’s forecourt.
Press gently on each corner of the car to assess the state of the suspension – any creaking or groaning is likely to be a costly fix, so factor this into the negotiations. Check that the car sits evenly on its springs – rear leafs lose their tension over time and can cause the rear end to sag. While the parts aren’t expensive, it is a home-fix for the more confident amateur mechanic.
INTERIOR
The electrical systems on cars of this period are simple and straightforward, but it pays to check that everything is working as it should. Pay particular attention to switches and heater controls, but also check exterior lighting.
Interiors are still available, but will be secondhand.
OUR VERDICT
The BMC Farina range models are well built, tough and reliable classics when properly maintained. A conservative image has led to values remaining low, but this won’t continue. As fewer cars survive each passing year the price of these attractive saloons is sure to rise.
Tips on how to find an Allegro you can depend on...
In 1973 British Leyland unleashed the Austin Allegro on to a world that probably wasn’t quite ready for it. Replacing the much-loved but aged 1100/1300 was never going to be easy, but the roly-poly styling and an attempt to reinvent the (steering) wheel with its rectangular Quartic helm meant it had an uphill struggle from the get-go. Unfortunately, as British Leyland’s woes worsened and the Allegro became the pin-up for its problems, fewer and fewer customers decided to indulge.
VITAL STATISTICS
Austin Allegro 1300 Super
Engine 1275cc/4-cyl/OHV
Power (bhp@rpm) 59bhp@5300rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 68.5lb ft@3000rpm
Top speed 84mph
0-60mph 18.4sec
Consumption 31mpg
Gearbox 4-spd manual/4-spd auto opt.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
Front valances rust – an MoT failure – as does the metal behind the fog lamps/dummy grilles. Corrosion can also strike around the sidelights/indicators and in both front wheelarches. Front wings deteriorate by their bottom corners, and look for rust under the windscreen. In the engine bay, look for bubbling paint due to fluid spills from the brake and clutch reservoirs. Wet carpets indicate water can’t drain from the bulkhead air intake grille. Series 2-on cars had plastic sill covers, which can mask rust underneath. Door bottoms will start to disappear if their drain holes are blocked. Look for bad corrosion at the bottom of the rear arches, which can spread to the rear subframe mountings.
ENGINE
There are two engine types: A-series 1000s, 1100s and 1300s, and E-series 1500s and 1750s. A-series engines are tough and simple, and parts are plentiful. Excessive blue smoke from the exhaust during starting and on the overrun points to significant wear. Fumes from under the filler cap are also a concern. In 1982 stronger, smoother A-plus engines were fitted. The E-series engine is the weaker of the two units and parts are less plentiful.
Head gasket issues can also strike, and noisy timing chains are trickier to replace. Identify worn crankshaft bearings as a growl from the bottom end.
RUNNING GEAR
A-series cars have four-speed gearboxes, which suffer few troubles. E-series have five-speeders that are usually quite baulky in use and top gear can be very difficult to find. Auto boxes go on for ages, but stretched selector cables will cause issues and are not easy to source for 1500 and 1750 models. Check the car is sitting level all around – if not, the worst case scenario is failed displacer units, though they’re still available. On your test drive listen for clicking noises from the wheels at full lock, pointing to a worn CV joint.
INTERIOR
Basic Allegros had vinyl upholstery, which is more resilient than the brushed nylon of Series 3 and velour of HLS types. Dashboards and trim often rattle, sag or come loose. Vanden Plas models had wood and leather to worry about, which will obviously cost more to put right if shabby. Electrical issues are usually down to bad earths or corroded connections, especially around the underbonnet fuse box.
OUR VERDICT
There’s been a growing appreciation in recent years for these characterful, practical classics. Custodianship of an Allegro is often a quite hilarious experience and you’ll never be far from a good joke or two. Best of all, these Austins are cheap and cheerful to buy, run and maintain, and there are still plenty to go around. Forget your prejudices and try one – you may just find yourself growing to adore it.
It was well-named for its space, but has the Maxi shaken off its reputation for poor build?
The Maxi should be more highly regarded. It was Sir Alec Issigonis’s final design and the last car developed by the British Motor Corporation – although its launch timing also made it the first flowering from the new British Leyland morass. But lack of glamour – much more a workhorse rather than a charismatic machine – and poor build quality destroyed its reputation. Those that have survived are generally the good ones now.
VITAL STATISTICS
Engine 1748cc/4-cyl/OHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 95bhp@5350rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 107lb ft@3500rpm
Top speed 101mph
0-60mph 13.2sec
Consumption 25mpg
Gearbox 5-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
Being a British Leyland product of the 1970s, rust is unlikely to be that far away. Around the headlamps and sidelights are obvious areas to check, where muck gets trapped. Front wings go frilly around their rear edges and bottoms, plus where they mate with the front panel. A support bracket halfway up behind the wing also harbours rust, which will ultimately break through.
Look for bulkhead corrosion due to spilled clutch fluid and leaves in the intake grille. Sills should also be scrutinised, from both outside and inside. You’ll need to lift the carpets to do so, which is a good point to check the rest of the floorpan. Door bottoms evaporate because of blocked drain holes.
Wheelarches often breed rust, and don’t forget the load area. When water gets in, it will collect in nooks and ultimately wreak havoc. Try to get underneath to check out the valance, floorpan, front subframe and mountings, suspension arm mountings and the suspension turrets themselves.
ENGINE
The 1485cc and 1748cc E-series engines are resilient enough, so just investigate for signs of old-age wear, such as blue smoke and excessive noise, like a noisy timing chain (meaning parting the engine from the gearbox to rectify) and bottom end rumbles denoting worn crankshaft bearings. Expect any example to drink oil. Single carburettor cars suffer from vapour lock, making them difficult to re-start when warm, and heat also causes the fuel lines in the engine bay to go brittle. Keep an eye out for the mayonnaise under filler cap indications of head gasket failure.
The five-speed gearboxes are weak. The first 1.5-litre cars had cable-operated ones, which stretched. From 1970, rod ‘boxes were adopted, but they’re pretty poor, too – worn synchromesh, jumping out of gear, and leaking oil. Automatic transmissions can suffer from stretched selector cables.
RUNNING GEAR
Hydrolastic suspension was used up until the 1977 adoption of Hydragas. With both, look for tilting or collapse. Often a pump-up at a garage will rectify things, although it might be that a pipe or hose has given way. Uneven tyre wear signals worn suspension mounting bushes. Brakes (disc at the front, drum at the rear) present few problems, save for seizing on little-used examples.
INTERIOR
BL/BMC parts bin raiding means a lot of components are shared with sibling cars and thus it’s still pretty common to find good items secondhand. Cloth seats can go saggy and tear, and keep in mind the dashboard on all but the earliest cars was wood, so may crack or peel. Electrics are basic, with most issues down to DIY meddling or bad connections.
OUR VERDICT
All the cars are built like the proverbial tank, all of them offer plenty of room for family transport to and from events, and basic running costs are reasonably affordable too. Just don’t expect to find very many spares at autojumbles in the UK. Your starting-point for spares should be one of the used parts specialists; some of them have New Old Stock parts too, so you might just get lucky.
Think Pinifarina, and you tend to think of a long line of jaw-dropping stunners such as the Lancia Flaminia, Ferrari 288GTO and Fiat Dino. And yet this respected design house has long dabbled in much more workaday machinery, although few have taken the designer’s name. The stylish and practical little Austin A40 is one such, however, and its beauty is more than skin deep: legendary rally driver, Pat Moss, drove one to tenth place on the 1959 Monte Carlo rally.
It may have been styled by a distinguished design house, but the A40 Farina still has feet of clay – or more acccurately body panels of steel – and rots in all the usual places with the best of them.
These cars suffer at the front more than most, so check the panel beneath the radiator grille aperture for hidden corrosion (this area tends to rust from the inside out), and also the areas immediately surrounding the headlights. This latter in particular can be hidden successfully by sufficient filler and a cheap blow-over re-spray, so be vigilant.
Out back, the lower edge of the double-skinned bootlid can trap water with predictable consequences, likewise the boot floor. The rear spring hangers are also prone to extensive – and expensive – corrosion.
Body panels are surprisingly scarce, given that more than 364,000 Farinas rolled off the production line (NOS front wings are particularly hard to come by, and the fit of some pattern parts can be truly appalling), so always source the soundest car you can afford.
VITAL STATISTICS
AUSTIN A40 MK1
Engine 948cc/4-cyl/OHV
Power (bhp@rpm) 34bhp@4750rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 50lb/ft@2000rpm
Top speed 72mph
0-60mph 31.2sec
Consumption 37.7mpg
Gearbox 4-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
It may have been styled by a distinguished design house, but the A40 Farina still has feet of clay – or more acccurately body panels of steel – and rots in all the usual places with the best of them.
These cars suffer at the front more than most, so check the panel beneath the radiator grille aperture for hidden corrosion (this area tends to rust from the inside out), and also the areas immediately surrounding the headlights. This latter in particular can be hidden successfully by sufficient filler and a cheap blow-over re-spray, so be vigilant.
Out back, the lower edge of the double-skinned bootlid can trap water with predictable consequences, likewise the boot floor. The rear spring hangers are also prone to extensive – and expensive – corrosion.
Body panels are surprisingly scarce, given that more than 364,000 Farinas rolled off the production line (NOS front wings are particularly hard to come by, and the fit of some pattern parts can be truly appalling), so always source the soundest car you can afford.
ENGINE
It’s mostly good news, here, since the 948cc and 1098cc engines are shared with various other BMC cars, including the Morris Minor and Austin A35. They might not be particularly powerful, but they’re as tough as they come and can be tuned to within an inch of their lives. Mk1s and early Mk2s are often uprated using either the marginally more powerful (37bhp plays 34bhp) later 1098cc engine, or more powerful-still units from the loosely related MG Midget, too.
These engines thrive on regular maintenance, so evidence of 3000-mile oil changes, lubrication (rear spring shackles, brake balance lever, etc) and a new-looking fuel pump filter (which can last up to 6000 miles between cleans) are all good news.
Elsewhere, things to bear in mind on the Mk1 include checking the mechanical fuel pump pipe line unions for cracks and damage and the Zenith carb for evidence of silting up. The Mk2’s SU carb needs less maintenance, although rough running can often be cured by removing the suction chamber and suction disc assembly and cleaning them out thoroughly.
A persistently glowing oil pressure warning light can be caused by something as simple as an old oil filter requiring replacement, but could be as a result of either a worn oil pump or – more seriously – worn engine bearings.
RUNNING GEAR
Again, simplicity is the key here, and the A40’s oily bits are provenly tough. Worn halfshafts will eventually break if they’re not renewed, but if you’re planning to replace them with examples off a donor car, make sure you replace them like-for-like – ie, a donor left-hand halfshaft should always go onto the left side of the recipient car.
The differential is similarly hard-wearing. They’re often quite noisy, but will carry on in this vein for hundreds of miles before they finally expire.
The clutch requires very little regular maintenance and should last for years as long as the slave cylinder pivot is kept oiled every 3000 miles or so. That said, a slipping clutch is usually as a result of worn thrust springs or a seized piston within the clutch slave cylinder, while a juddering clutch can usually be traced back to a pressure plate being misaligned with the flywheel or loose propshaft bolts.
INTERIOR
The A40’s cabin is a simple and hard-wearing as the rest of the car, which is extremely good news since NOS replacement trim components are virtually impossible to source now, and used items come up for sale on the specialist forums and at specialist dealers only very occasionally. There’s a modicum of common componentry between the A40 and some of its sister models, but on the whole it really does pay to keep your eyes peeled for any donor cars or parts that turn up on the web.
OUR VERDICT
Amazingly, rarity is one of the big attractions of prospective A40 Farina ownership these days – parts, be they body panels, interior/exterior trim or brightwork, are getting increasingly difficult to find, and the cars themselves come up for sale surprisingly rarely. Find a good one, and chances are you’ll have to organise orderly queues of people keen to have a look at it.
Rarity aside, however, these are corking little classics in their own right: they’re not especially quick, but they’re spacious, mechanically straightforward and handle and ride beautifully.
As the icing on the cake, we can think of few other classics that manage to be quite so practical, yet so compact overall.
Austin’s early post-war cars once seemed to be everywhere, but you’ll have to look long and hard if you want one now...
The 1945-1947 Austin Ten-Four was a revived pre-war design that lasted only until Longbridge had the replacement A40 Somerset ready. Introduced in 1939, its semi-integral construction was a step forward, but its side-valve engine dated back to 1932. The attractive saloon body was designed by Dick Burzi and during the war, the armed services took saloon, van and pick-up ("Tilly", or utility) models. The Ten-Four was a strong seller, too: 55,521 were built.
VITAL STATISTICS
Engine 1125cc/4-cyl/side-valve
Power (bhp@rpm) 32bhp@4000rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) Not quoted
Top speed 62mph
0-60mph 40 sec+
Consumption 35mpg
Gearbox 4-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
In most respects, this will be your primary concern on one of these Austins. Parts are simply not available off the shelf, and you’ll be very lucky to find a scrapper that has any useable body parts on it. Most cars that have got to the scrap stage are likely to be in a state of near-collapse.
Watch out for problems with the sliding sunroof. It can leak, and owners on a budget tend to seal the roof up without attempting a proper repair. Collapse most often results from rot in the body pillars, which will give way eventually under the weight of the doors – especially if a car has been in long-term storage with the doors left open.
Look for rot around the edges of all panels, including the boot, doors, bonnet and wings. Some body sections are shared with the 8hp, 12hp and 16hp models, but remember that the larger-capacity cars also have some larger body dimensions.
ENGINE
The side-valve engine is as simple as they come, and shares the basics of its design with pre-war Austin Tens. Engine spares are therefore less of a problem than spares for other areas of the car. Even so, you’d be wise to develop strong links with specialist suppliers and fellow owners, and to keep a close and regular eye on what’s available on the web. Items do turn up out of nowhere, but then it’s a case of first come, first served. Bear in mind that the related wartime "Tilly" engine was an 11hp unit with a larger bore, so don’t be misled into buying the wrong parts for your engine!
RUNNING GEAR
The mechanical components are tough and simple. The four-speed gearbox has no synchromesh on bottom gear and doesn’t like to be rushed, and the brakes are Girling mechanical items which gave adequate stopping power for the mid-1940s. Springs are semi-elliptics all round.
The chassis sidemembers are welded to that floorpan to create a platform-like structure which is torsionally quite stiff. But do check for problems in the floorpan. Once it’s been weakened by rust, the ‘chassis’ can start to twist and if the body pillars have been weakened, then the whole body structure is in danger of collapse.
INTERIOR
The Ten-Four’s interior reflected Britain’s love of understatement at the time. There’s not a lot to the dashboard, but everything is well-made and placed just so. The seats were upholstered in leather (yes, even at this budget level), so bear this in mind when assessing a car with a tatty interior, since they will be expensive to re-cover.
If there are problems with the instruments or switches, specialists can usually help, but don’t expect to find any seats or trim panels for sale. These are items that you’ll have to get made specially. If you’re not sure what interior items should look like, look at some good original-condition cars, take plenty of photographs, and
then show your trimmer what you’re looking for.
OUR VERDICT
You’ll buy an Austin Ten-Four of this vintage mainly for nostalgic reasons. The cars didn’t represent any great leap forward in engineering or styling terms, and were always intended as Austin’s bread-and-butter product. However, they have always been rather attractive cars that recall a lost age of motoring, and they will always attract interest at shows and events. These cars are enjoyable, family-friendly classics, but you’ll need to accept that hunting for spare parts will likely be a permanent occupation, so make sure you have somewhere in your garage or loft to keep them all!
Want an interesting daily? We make the case for a Maestro...
Launched in 1983, the Austin Maestro replaced the Allegro and the Maxi in one fell swoop. A wide variety of options were available, from thrifty diesels to the plush Vanden Plas. A choice of two hatchbacks (metal and plastic bumper) in varying trim levels meant that there was a Maestro for everyone, and their simplicity makes them excellent classics for daily use. The van makes an interesting classic commercial, too.
VITAL STATISTICS
Engine 1275cc/4-cyl/OHV
Power (bhp@rpm) 68bhp@5800rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 75lb ft@3500rpm
Top speed 95mph
0-60mph 12.8sec
Consumption 36.3mpg
Gearbox 4/5-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
The primary concern of any would-be Maestro owner is bodywork, so buy the best body you can. Particular areas of concern are the wheelarches and sills – check the joint between the sill and the rear arch as major corrosion here will not be an easy fix. A-pillars rot at the roof join, and any rust around the windscreen should be closely watched and treated as soon as possible; treating it at an advanced stage means removing the bonded screen. Fuel filler pockets can rot out, but GRP and carbon fibre replacements are available from the MG ‘M’ Group. Watch the front valances on metal-bumper cars and vans as they attract stone chips and the inevitable blobs of rust. Both the front and rear valances on plastic bumper cars can rust – they weren’t painted at the factory and the first sign for many owners is the loss of the boot floor! Less serious is tailgate corrosion – while they go underneath the rear window and along the bottom edge, the tailgate can be replaced easily should a spare be found. Metal bumpers in good condition are scarce, so try and find a car with good ones
and ensure you keep the back face clean and rustproofed. The majority of cars will have minor blistering on the door bottoms – keep a close eye on this, but it isn’t a serious issue. Be aware that wings for the metal and plastic bumper models are different, as are the valances and other panels.
ENGINE
There were three engine options in varying states of tune. The 1.3 A-series is a common fitment to cars and vans, and is well catered for by Mini specialists. The 1.6 R-series is a development of the E-series as found in the Maxi and Allegro – no nasties here, and there’s no need to worry about cam belt changes as it has a chain. The R-series was refined into the S-series in 1984, and the cam chain was replaced by a belt, along with more extensive reworking. Don’t allow emulsification in the oil filler pipe on S-series cars to alarm you – it’s not a sign of head gasket failure but a design flaw in the routing of the filler pipe. Diesels used a development of the O-series known as the MDi or Perkins Prima, which has many fans due to its economy and torque characteristics.
RUNNING GEAR
Most Maestros have a VW gearbox which can be notchy in use, and the linkages are prone to popping off the box when worn. It’s a simple fix, though, and can be remedied in seconds; some owners cable-tie the linkages to prevent re-occurrences. Diesels (and MGs) use the Honda-designed PG1 gearbox from the Montego. Linkages are also a weak point and a vague gear change indicates worn PG1 linkages. Front wheel bearings wear quickly and are not the simplest of fixes – also take care to examine the steering components carefully on cars with PAS fitted.
INTERIOR
As befits a small family car of the 1980s there were myriad specifications, trim materials and colours. While it is too tempting to choose the model with the brownest interior, this trim is prone to disintegration and many cars have had trim panels replaced with grey items due to the scarcity of good brown parts. Grey, blue and cream trim items do not have this issue, with grey being the easiest to source replacement parts. Model specific items such as seats can be hard to find, so try to find as good an interior as you can. ‘L’ spec cars with Moonstripe Tweed seats are prone to water staining, but all materials used for Maestros are hard wearing and comfortable. The late Vanden Plas models featured walnut and leather – a stark contrast to early Base models which lacked even a glovebox, or the commodious vans with their vinyl seats! Early dashboards can rattle, whereas the later one-piece dash from the Montego is prone to cracking and lifting above the instrument binnacle. Toys such as central locking and electric windows can prove erratic, but they are simple to fix.
OUR VERDICT
Maestros are excellent family cars and are well up to daily use. They’re modern enough to be low maintenance, yet simple enough to be fixed on a driveway. With slim pillars for good visibility, space to fit a tumble drier in the back, short overhangs and room for four six-footers, they’re a sensible classic that’s cheap to buy and run. Vans have all the attributes of a hatch but with a much bigger load bay.
An interesting and likeable British supermini...
The Austin Mini Metro was launched in 1980 amid much patriotic fanfare, and in its 17-year production run – including later Metro and Rover 100 models – over two million cars emerged from Longbridge. With the proven A-Series engine and trim levels ranging from 1.0 Standard (later ‘City’) to 1.3 HLS, the Metro was a solid competitor to the likes of the Mark 1 Fiesta and Renault 5. Plush ‘Vanden Plas’ trim arrived in 1982 with optional leather upholstery and wood trim, the same year also seeing the launch of sporting MG variants. The economy-oriented HLE model never met the 80mpg claims, and typical BL quality issues affected early cars, but improvements meant the Metro evolved into a capable car.
While not as groundbreaking as the original Mini, the Metro was spacious and economical. It was quite advanced for its time, too (options included Dunlop’s innovative Denovo run-flat tyres). And with decent performance, a smooth ride, and nippy handling, it can still entertain today.
VITAL STATISTICS
Austin Mini Metro 1.0, 1981
Engine 998cc/4-cyl/OHV
Power (bhp@rpm) 44bhp@5250rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 52lb ft@3000rpm
Top speed 87mph
0-60mph 18.9sec
Consumption 42mpg
Gearbox 4-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
Patchy BL build quality meant that most cars succumbed to rust, and there are some specific places to investigate. The bottom of the doors, the sills, and the front valance below the bumper were common problem areas. A good look underneath is advisable, too, as the floorpan in the front footwells was susceptible to rotting out, as were the mounting points for the rear subframe. However, remaining examples are likely to have been repaired, and replacement panels are easily available if further work is necessary. Faded paintwork and damaged exterior trim are other things to look for.
ENGINE
The venerable A-series engine means there is little to worry about here. A complete re-build or replacement is within the scope of the DIY mechanic, and there are a huge number of Mini specialists to call upon for parts or advice. There are some well-known weak points to watch out for, including oil leaks and worn timing chains. Blown head gaskets, failed water pumps, and leaking core plugs aren’t uncommon, but regular maintenance should prevent many of these problems occurring. However, the ease with which these engines can be maintained is one of the plus points of Metro ownership. Everything is easily accessible and service items are cheap so there is little excuse for a previous owner not to have kept things in tip-top condition.
RUNNING GEAR
Simple four-speed transmissions make for an easy ownership proposition. Manual ‘boxes can suffer from selection problems due to a faulty reverse-gear bush, while worn synchromesh may affect hard-used cars – a reconditioned unit is a cost‑effective cure. The popular automatics are largely trouble-free. Like the Mini, the transmission was mounted in the sump and shared the engine’s oil supply, so regular oil and filter changes will help to prolong gearbox life. Steering and braking systems were conventional and only regular maintenance is needed. The suspension is a little more tricky, employing the clever ‘Hydragas’ system at each corner. While this gave an excellent ride, repairs are difficult as replacement units aren’t available new. Specialist equipment is required to recharge the units, and while this may fix a car that appears to sag, be wary if problems continue. Corroded suspension pipework is common, but replacement pipes are easy to fit.
INTERIOR
Simple four-speed transmissions make for an easy ownership proposition. Manual ‘boxes can suffer from selection problems due to a faulty reverse-gear bush, while worn synchromesh may affect hard-used cars – a reconditioned unit is a cost‑effective cure. The popular automatics are largely trouble-free. Like the Mini, the transmission was mounted in the sump and shared the engine’s oil supply, so regular oil and filter changes will help to prolong gearbox life. Steering and braking systems were conventional and only regular maintenance is needed. The suspension is a little more tricky, employing the clever ‘Hydragas’ system at each corner. While this gave an excellent ride, repairs are difficult as replacement units aren’t available new. Specialist equipment is required to recharge the units, and while this may fix a car that appears to sag, be wary if problems continue. Corroded suspension pipework is common, but replacement pipes are easy to fit.
OUR VERDICT
Despite coming from a British Leyland that was not at its best, the Metro was actually a fine small car. It outperformed its competitors with a superb combination of comfort, versatility, and excellent handling and roadholding. Suspension issues aside, simple mechanicals make the Metro an attractive proposition for the classic enthusiast while a wide network of parts suppliers and specialists guarantee low running costs too. Find a nice, rust-free example and you’ll certainly enjoy what this British small car has to offer.
When was the last time you saw a C1-series Audi 100 Coupé S? Not recently, we’d bet. Less than 3200 made it onto the UK market and, of those, fewer than 50 are thought to have survived. In terms of rarity, this is up there with the Iso Grifo and Aston Martin DBS it so closely resembles.
It matches the Grifo and DBS in terms of lounge-lizard looks, too. Back in 1973, when the car in our photos was first registered, it was considered to be little more than an overpriced Volkswagen lookalike, but today the car has matured into a svelte, hunkered-down GT that carries with it more than a whiff of 1960s Mustang. Simply put, it’s absolutely stunning, especially with our test example’s vivid metallic blue paint and delicate chrome.
Enough gawping. We need to go for a drive. Grasp the substantial chrome door handle, thumb the equally jumbo-sized push-button beneath and haul open the large, heavy door before stepping down into a world of 1970s Teutonic splendour.
Sink into the vast blue driver’s seat and pause awhile to drink in the details the almost comically huge steering wheel, the wood trim that calls to mind the teak you used to get on ’70s music centres, the Size 10 organ pedal throttle, and the quartet of green-on-black dials garnished with bright orange needles. Push the ignition key into the slot to the left of the steering column and the 1.9-litre fourcylinder engine coughs into life before settling into a slightly offbeat thrum that carries a vague timbre of the quattro’s trademark fivecylinder burble that would follow years later.
Then you go to snap your seatbelt into place, and puzzle over the apparently broken set-up missing its metal buckle. The penny drops…the Germans did things differently back then. Instead of a buckle, you loop the belt into a snap-jaw mechanism bolted to the floor. Well, it’s better than nothing…
The gearshift is one of few chinks in the 100’s armour – the throw is very long and rather vague, and each gear hits home with an indistinct slush rather than a rifle-bolt click – but the 1.9-litre ‘four’ is a little honey that punches well above its weight.
The long-winded gearbox takes the sporting edge off the car, but the engine delivers a hardedged engine note as the revs rise, and there’s an impressive amount of feedback through that Ark Royal tiller of a steering wheel.
Handling is on the soft side, but there is an almost boundless supply of grip. The rearwheel drive chassis feels surprisingly lively, given that it’s a simple live axle; no doubt the rear end becomes quite entertaining in the wet.
As a consummate cruiser, however, the Audi impresses, despite its lack of a fifth gear. While 118lb ft of torque doesn’t sound like much, it comes on song at a relatively lowly 3500rpm, meaning motorway overtakes rarely require a drop down into a lower gear.
Audi 100 Trivia
By 1993 the Porsche 911 formula was well and truly tried and tested, so it came as no surprise that the brand new 911 993 looked very much like its predecessors. Though most elements were the same (rear-wheel drive, rear-mounted air-cooled flat six), there was also a great deal that was different. The bodywork was completely changed for a start. Though it looked like the 964 from a distance, trained eyes are drawn to the much fatter rear wheel arches, teardrop mirrors and the retractable rear wing, penned by Englishman Toni Hatter. The bumpers were also smoothed off, as was the style at the time. Despite the subtle external changes, the roof panels and doors were kept the same, showing the close similarity with earlier models.
The styling changes weren’t all for show though. The wider rear arches, aggressively cool as they were, were actually a requirement due to the new all-alloy subframe, complete with alloy suspension arms. This modification helped to increase high-speed stability, and the new suspension did much to address the 911’s tendency for oversteer – a well-noted problem on previous iterations of the model.
The changes went deeper still, with the 993 being the first production Porsche to be fitted with a 6-speed manual gearbox. A Tiptronic option was also available, the slick 4-speed transmission capable of smooth and quick shifts – definitely worth considering if you do a lot of driving in the city. Changes were also made to the optional 4-wheel drive system that was available with the 964. The new system did away with one of the three differentials, replacing it with a viscous coupling system that reduced weight and improved handling characteristics.
While the 911’s trademark flat-six engine stayed at the same capacity at the 964, its 3.6-litres now translated to 272bhp, largely due to an improved management system and better exhaust. However, the cream of the crop was the RS version. As with previous iterations, the engine was bored-out over the capacity of the standard model, this time to 3.8-litre. This was enough for Porsche to tease out 300bhp.
The most powerful production 911 of this era, however, was again the 911 Turbo, only this time it put out over 400bhp. Not only did it offer staggering performance, it was the first production Porsche to feature a twin-turbocharged engine, and was also the first 911 Turbo to be fitted with permanent four-wheel drive.
The 993 was a special car not only for its looks and performance, but for what it represented the end of an era. The 993 was to be the last air-cooled Porsche to ever be made, bringing to a close a chapter of motoring that is looked back on with great fondness for sports car fans. As the last ‘true’ 911, the 993 is valued strongly, with the Turbo version being top of the pile. A decent example will set you back upwards of £30,000, with the sky being the limit for especially low mileage examples. Though reliable, we would advise you to get a specialist to check over any potential purchase. Engine rebuild costs can be hugely expensive.
ENGINE 3600cc/6-cyl/DOHC
POWER 281bhp@6100rpm
TORQUE 252lb ft@5250rpm
TOP SPEED 171mph
0-60MPH 5.4secs
ECONOMY 24mpg
GEARBOX 6-speed manual
It's the brilliance of the steering that really defines this car. It didn't promise much initially, feeling distant and unresponsive at the off. But up the ante, and really drive this 993-generation Porsche 911, it wakes up, and you begin to feel at one with the car as it settles into its comfort zone. But then the 911 is a car of contrasts - and has been in each successive generation.
These mixed messages start with the interior. It's easy to be less than impressed at first acquaintance. The Spartan dashboard comprises an oval bank of instruments, a radio (in front of the passenger) and that's about it. The pedals feel offset towards the centre of the car - much like the steering wheel, and once you've adopted the necessary seating position, you wrestle with the vast turning circle, rubbery steering and those broad hips, which make placing it tough in tight spaces.
On the plus side, it's beautifully-trimmed, and while headroom is at a premium, there's plenty of wiggle-room for your elbows and ample legroom for the driver. But 911 veterans know that the urban grind is not for these cars; teh opne, winding A-road, is its natural hunting ground.
Point it at a flowing ribbon of tarmac, squeeze the throttle, and that rasping flat-six begins to sing. It's then you find that controls have been set-up prefectly for the driver in a hurry - almost as if Porsche had applied more than 30 yearsof development to get you down this road as quickly as possible.
It's not quite perfect, though. The floor-hinged throttle is lower than the brake, making heel-and-toe shifts near-impossible, save under hard braking. Otherwise it gels supremely well.
As familiarity mounts, you learn to confidently place it, inch-perfect, on the road. The lack of headroom feeling like a race helmet rather than a roof.
The oft-debated position of the engine, isn't as mad as some would have you believe. Having all that weight at the back means the nose is lighter, more delicate and easier to point. Treat it with respect and factor in some common sense, and the 993 is far from being a widow-maker.
Once you master the correct technique, and get the most from the 993, it comes together and truly begins to make sense. Any reservations simply melt away. And you begin to see the 911's seemingly glacial evolution for what it is: not a result of a lack of imagination, but a classic sports car that has undergone relentless improvements over the decades.
The 993 is, in short, the pinnacle of Porsche's air-cooled development. It's exciting, visceral and an all-time classic. In a very real sense, it could well be the greatest Porsche 911 of the lotCopy the
The original Porsche 911 was first shown to the world in 1963 and marveled crowds with its sleek aerodynamic shape and rear-engined rear-wheel drive layout, similar to the much less sporty Porsche 356, which ended production in the same year. The earliest versions were fitted with a 2-litre 128bhp boxer engine, but by 1966 (a year after the 911 landed on US shores) customers were calling for more power.
Porsche answered with the introduction of the Porsche 911S model, which featured a 158bhp flat-six engine married to stylish Fuchs alloys. By 1967 the range was expanded to include a Targa model, which offered open top 911 driving for the first time. Rather than being a full convertible, the Targa was fitted with a hefty roll bar, a design addition that was kept largely due to oppressive US safety regulations.
The Neunelfer (as it became known in Germany) proved to be a huge sales success for Porsche, but it wasn’t until 1973 that the greatest 911 of them all came on the scene – the 911 Carrera RS, or Rennsport (race sport). It was the first time that the Carrera name had been used since the 356 went out of production, and was chosen to commemorate Porsche class victories in the Carrera Panamericana races, held in Mexico in the 1950s. Built to homologate the model for competition, the 911 RS utilised a 2.7-litre flat-six engine that was capable of producing 210bhp, with a Sport Lightweight version weighing a paltry 975kg thanks to thinner glass and steel over the standard Touring model. Overall, 1580 were made, smashing the 500-unit requirement to homologate the model for participation in the FIA Group 4 class.
A year later in 1974 Porsche introduced the 911 Carrera RS 3.0, a larger capacity fuel-injected model that upped power to around 230bhp, though still sharing a similar chassis to the 2.7 RS. Once again, the lightest materials were used, enabling the German firm to reduce the car’s shipping weight to only 900kg. The RS 3.0 proved to be a very capable sports car and scored a number of important victories on the racetrack throughout the 1970s. This model also formed the basis for the 911 RSR Turbo, which represented one of Porsche’s first forays into turbocharging – a route that would bring the tremendous success in future years, forming the basis of later performance 911 models.
As a general rule of thumb, the earlier the 911, the more collectable it will be – though the 2.7 RS model is the daddy of them all, with the prototype selling for $480,000 in 2008.
The main danger when buying one of these excellent sports cars is fakes – or ‘evocations’ as they’ve become known in the market place. Though practically indistinguishable from the real deal, these cars are worth considerably less and can be picked up for around £25,000.
Our advice? Invest in a lower powered 911T and watch its value slowly rise in line with the halo models. They’re still a barrel of laughs and will become much more valuable in years to come as the market becomes saturated with replica RS’.
VITAL STATISTICS
ENGINE 1991cc/6-cyl/SOHC
POWER 130bhp@6100rpm
TORQUE 128lb ft@4200rpm
TOP SPEED 131mph
0-60MPH 8.3secs
ECONOMY 27mpg
GEARBOX 5-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK
Don’t let talk of galvanised bodies distract you. These 911s can – and do – rust. Accident damage is also an issue as not everyone respected the handling quite as much as they should. Be very wary of any suspect panel gaps and check for repairs that aren’t up to scratch. A blow-over can quickly make even a rough 911 appear smart at first glance. Rot can strike in the front wings around the headlamps and the trailing edge, but you really need to get underneath to check around the rear suspension mounts and inner wings. If you see any sign of bubbling just ahead of the rear wheels, above the sill line, expect significant rot. Also check the ‘kidneys’ – the panelwork to the rear of the door-shut. Rot here can be terminal, so ensure they are both solid.
ENGINE
These engines are tough, with the hydraulic timing chain tensioner a huge improvement over earlier models. However, 911s often cover huge distances, so check the service history to see if the recorded mileage can be verified. Any clattering from the engine is bad news and suggests a top end rebuild is likely to be required. Watch for blue smoke too, as cylinders can wear, especially if lots of short journeys have been undertaken. Check the service history for work carried out as well as stamps. Recent engine work is always a bonus.
Until 1987, the 915 gearbox was used. This can be very clunky in first and second, especially when cold. The later G50 gearbox is considered an improvement – spot it by reverse gear being next to first. It came with a hydraulic clutch too, so the pedal should be lighter. Once warm, either gearbox should allow quick, crunch-free changes.
RUNNING GEAR
The brakes should naturally haul the car to a quick halt with the minimum of fuss. The torsion bar suspension has little to go wrong, but worn dampers can make a 911 feel skittish and tired bushes can lead to clonking and vagueness. People are sometimes tempted to modify the height. They shouldn’t. The steering should be accurate and entirely free of play. Inspect the tyres. You want deep tread, not worn out rubber by a different manufacturer on each corner.
INTERIOR AND ELECTRICS
Ventilation is a weak point, so make sure the air conditioning is working if fitted. Assume it isn’t working if told it has been disconnected. Check the electric windows too and make sure the heater can be turned on/off. Damage to the seats is rare as they are hard wearing, but that and wear on the steering wheel and pedal rubbers can be used to help gauge whether the recorded mileage is genuine.
EXPECT TO PAY
Project £8000
Usable £12,000
Excellent £18,000
Concours £25,000
OUR VERDICT
There is surely no better entry into 911 ownership than the 3.2 Carrera. It’s the final evolution of the original, tracing its roots right back to 1966. The 964 that replaced it was substantially different. So, if you want the classic Porsche experience, the 3.2 is a less expensive option to consider.
As the last of the air-cooled 911s, the 993 is a special model for many fans
Classic Porsche 911 993 Review
The Porsche 993’s cabin is a fine place to be, with the traditional five-dial instrument pack (dominated by the rev counter) and a less scattergun approach to the positioning of the switches and minor controls than on previous models. The plush interior is also beautifully assembled, with a feeling of real quality to all of the materials.
On the road, the experience is as impressive as you’d expect from this potent car. Even if things are a bit more civilised than with earlier incarnations, you know straight away that you’re piloting one of the finest sports cars around. The noise of the air-cooled engine may have been muted slightly, but it’ll still raise the hairs on the back of your neck at full chat. And all this is accompanied by delightfully accurate power-assisted steering, powerful brakes and a real feeling of security from the multi-link rear suspension. It still demands a degree of respect, but make no mistake, the 993 is a proper 911.
VITAL STATISTICS
Engine 3600cc/6-cyl/SOHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 272bhp@6100rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 252lb ft@5000rpm
Top speed 160mph
0-60mph 5.2sec
Consumption 25mpg
Gearbox 6-spd man/4-spd auto
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
You should be aware that 911s are popular track day machines, so be sure to scrutinise the car and its history for any signs of previous accident repair. Lift the carpet in the front luggage compartment and check for evidence of new panels or for any tell-tale creases in the floor or inner wings, and look out for signs of new welding. Also inspect for damp in the luggage compartment, checking around the battery for corrosion, and make sure the tyre compressor is present.
The galvanised bodyshell resists corrosion well on the whole, but there are a few spots to check. Stone-chipping around the nose and headlamps is common, and make sure there is no bubbling around the front or rear windscreens – poorly fitted replacements can cause rust to develop. Check the panels aft of the wheels for paintwork damage from road debris, and ensure that the bumpers are secure – the mountings have been know to rot. Make sure the electric rear spoiler operates properly (it was fixed on RS and Turbo models), and take a look at the door check-straps – they can pull from their mountings as the doors were heavier than on previous models and a proper repair is pricey.
ENGINE
The 3.6-litre M64 engine is strong, but it needs proper maintenance, so avoid cars that aren’t accompanied by a perfect service history. The M64 is less prone to oil leaks than the later water-cooled engines, but check for signs of leakage all the same; regular oil changes are essential. If it’s not been done already, most engines will be ready for a rebuild around the 80,000-100,000-mile mark – the top end particularly – so budget accordingly. A smoky exhaust should be treated with extreme caution on any model, but pay particular attention on the Turbo – the twin KKK blowers give plenty of power and will have most likely been worked hard in the car’s lifetime. Post-1996 models received the Varioram variable inlet system for increased power and torque.
ELECTRICS
The 993 was available in cabriolet and Targa-roofed forms. On the former, check for hood damage and a cloudy plastic back window. Replacement is costly and non-Porsche items often don’t fit as well. On Targas, ensure the glass roof panels slide as they should, as the electrics can play up.
RUNNING GEAR
The six-speed manual gearbox – designated G50 on C2 models and G64 on 4WD cars – is tough, but prolonged track abuse can eventually take its toll. Make sure the gearshift action is slick and be alert for any whines, weak synchromesh or clutch slippage. The four-speed Tiptronic automatic ‘box wasn’t admired by everyone, but it is reliable on the whole – which is just as well, since replacing one will easily run into thousands of pounds. The 4WD system is generally trouble-free so long as it is maintained properly, but don’t ignore any dashboard warning lights.
BRAKES
The 993 is very sensitive to correct wheel alignment and setting the geometry needs specialist tools – odd handling or uneven tyre wear requires further investigation. A complete suspension refurb can easily cost £3000-4000 and wear isn’t always apparent, so a professional inspection is advisable. Watch for scored and corroded brake discs and check the condition of the Brembo brake calipers; they contain a steel section that can corrode, causing the pads to stick. Ensure the ABS warning light illuminates and extinguishes as it should, too.
INTERIOR
Interior trim materials and build quality is top-notch, so it’s mainly a case of inspecting for wear and tear. Make sure everything works, particularly the electric seat motors, and check for any damp caused by blocked drain-holes or leaking windscreen seals. Air-conditioning was a desirable option when new, so ensure that both it and the heater are working properly – a worn air-con pump or rusty heat exchangers are the main causes of problems.
OUR VERDICT
The 993 is seriously desirable, perhaps more so being the final recipient of the classic air-cooled engine. As with all older 911s, you’ll need to tread carefully if huge expense is to be avoided. Get a specialist inspection if you’re in any doubt about a car’s condition or provenance, but a cherished example of this legendary sports car will be an absolute joy.
A front-engined GT was a real departure for Porsche.
Intended as a replacement for the 911, not all Porsche fans were enamoured by the idea of a front-engined GT diluting the brand. But the 928 was well-received by the motoring press, going on to win the Car of The Year Award in 1978. Debuting at the 1977 Geneva motor show, the 928 was launched with a 4.5-litre V8 engine pushing out a respectable 240bhp. The range developed with S2, S3, and S4 variants finally ending production in the mid 1990s with the GTS, while engines grew in size to 4.7 then 5.0-litre units. It is thought that around 18,000 928s were produced, however exact figures are hard to come by so that number may fluctuate to a small degree.
With some innovative design features and Porsche’s superb engineering and quality, the 928 makes a wonderful mile-eating GT (prodigious thirst aside). Despite the tiny rear seats, there is even an element of practicality, so if air-cooling doesn’t float your boat, the 928 could well be for you.
VITAL STATISTICS
Engine 4474cc/V8/DOHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 240bhp@5250rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 268lb ft@3600rpm
Top speed 143mph
0-60mph 6.8sec
Consumption 20mpg
Gearbox 5-speed manual or 3-speed auto
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
A galvanised steel body with aluminium panels, which include the doors, front wings and bonnet, means that serious rust is rarely an issue. The body-coloured polyurethane bumpers were unusual at the time and not only contributed to the clean design, but improved aerodynamics too. Replacements for these and other body panels are becoming scarce and will be costly. Damaged tailgate seals can let water into the luggage compartment so feel around the carpet and side panels for any signs of damp. It is also worth checking that those pop-up headlamps work smoothly – replacing the relay can be a simple fix but a new motor will sting financially. Bodywork repairs on a car such as the 928 are a costly affair too, so a thorough check is to be recommended.
ENGINE
The powerful V8 is a tough unit and with regular care is capable of racking up huge mileages. Proper servicing is the key here though high costs led many to neglect this aspect of ownership. Check the service history carefully.
Under the bonnet, oil and coolant leaks are the main things to look for as overheating will lead to headgasket failure and a large repair bill. Make sure you see evidence of regular cambelt changes too; the 4.5-litre engine doesn’t suffer valve to piston contact in the event of belt failure, but replacement is a tricky and expensive task. Engine management system faults can cause misfires or lumpy running which can be hard to track down while replacing a corroded exhaust system is getting on for four figures. The 928 is not the ideal candidate for home servicing, but professional care will pay dividends.
RUNNING GEAR
The 928 uses a transaxle layout and there is a choice of 5-speed manual or 3-speed automatic transmissions. Autos can suffer from a problem with incorrect tension and cracking of the flex-plate which is located at the flywheel. Incorrect setting leads to wear in the crankshaft thrust bearing and ultimately complete engine failure. Oil leaks from the transaxle casing are common, as are worn driveshaft bearings within the torque tube connecting engine and transaxle. Some specialists can replace the bearings separately rather than fitting a new tube, significantly reducing costs. That said both the auto and manual are tough. Suspension-wise, worn bushes in the cleverly-designed rear axle and leaking dampers are the main things to check for here. Worn brakes (particularly on autos), power-steering fluid leaks and uneven tyre wear are also things to look for. Replacement ‘telephone-dial’ alloys are hard to find now, but specialists can refurbish them for a reasonable cost.
INTERIOR
Niggling electrical problems and failed air-conditioning are the main issues, followed by temperamental central locking. The check-pattern ‘Pascha’ trim is almost impossible to get hold of now so a complete re-trim could be necessary if the condition is poor.
OUR VERDICT
The 928 is a fantastic example of the grand tourer breed, and that it flew in the face of Porsche convention of the time is reason enough for many people to buy one of these cars. Yes, maintenance costs can be high but that is to be expected at this level. Avoid the abused and neglected cars that languish in the classifieds and find one that has been looked after by a respected marque specialist. Do this and the 928 is likely to prove a satisfying and enjoyable ownership experience.