DAF VARIOMATIC REVIEW

The Daf car was introduced at the Amsterdam motor show in 1958. It was the brainchild of Dr Hub Van Doorne. Hence its name - Van Doorne Automobiel Fabrik. It had a 600 c.c. aircooled flat twin engine of Daf design, very rugged.

 

This drove the rear wheels via a very special automatic and infinitely iable transmissin system involving belt drive. There was no gearbox as such and no differential either. The system proved very successful and provided true two pedal motoring. Originally the public was suspicious of the novel system, expecting the ious components to be fragile, especially the rubber compound belts. The fears proved to be completely unfounded as the cars gave exceptionally good service even when neglected. The first cars were offed for sale in 1959 and the cars remained in production with improvements and new models from time to time until 1975 when manufacturing rights were transferred to Volvo. The Volvo 343 of 1976 had been intended to be the next model of Daf and the "Variomatic" transmission as it was called was continued in this car. The system was optionally available in some Volvo models until 1991. The CVT system now used by some manufacturers is essentially a modern development of the Daf system which proved so foolproof for over thirty years. There is a flourishing owner club with enthusiastic membership and a very good website.

CLASSIC CAR REVIEWS - LOTUS EXCEL

No doubt about it: the Lotus Excel is one of the true forgotten greats. It may have been little more than a heavily tweaked Eclat, but the modern touches employed by design genius, Peter Stevens (whose CV includes such luminaries as the McLaren F1, M100 Lotus Elan and 555-liveried Subaru Impreza WRC) brought the car bang up to date for the 1980s, thanks to the smoother nose and wider-looking body.
Marque snobs tend to sneer at this, somewhat, but considering the much-lauded Ferrari 355 is really nothing more than an extensively re-designed 348, this hardly seems fair.
It’s certainly a very handsome car; the rear is a
little bulky-looking, perhaps, but from every other angle it’s at least a match for some of its rather more famous siblings.
And boy, does it go well. The surprisingly popular SA (which used a tried and tested ZF self-shifting gearbox) is perhaps the obvious anachronism in the line-up, but the manuals, with their Lotus-designed 2.2-litre naturally aspirated engines are sports cars through and through.
The Lotus Excel’s interior is very much of an era. It feels right, from the low-set driving position and high-set transmission tunnel, to the feel of the chunky three-spoke steering wheel, but in terms of style, you can do better.
If you can get past the questionable aesthetics, however, the Excel, well, excels in pretty much every other respect. It may lack the neck-snapping urge of a blown Esprit, but Lotus founder, Colin Chapman’s maxim of ‘simplify and add lightness’ certainly applies here: 180bhp (on later cars at least) in a car that weighs comfortably less than 1200kg is always going to feel rapid, and with maximum power coming on song at a gloriously screaming 6500rpm, every journey is hugely entertaining.
And this is a Lotus, of course, so you can pretty much guarantee that the handling will be epic
Lotus may be an acronym of Lots Of Trouble Usually Serious to blinkered badge snobs who really ought to change the record, but bag a sound example, and you’ll end up with one of today’s genuine performance car bargains.

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

1 The Excel was always marketed as a sports car, but while you’d therefore expect a degree of engine and road noise at speed, the Excel can border on the unbearable, since Lotus was notoriously tight-fisted with the amount of sound-deadening it fitted at the factory. Don’t let this put you off an otherwise healthy and sound car, however, since modern sound-deadening can be retro-fitted relatively easily (and relatively inexpensively, if you shop around), especially in the doors.

2 Ask any owner of a 1980s Lotus, and they’ll tell you that the biggest headache these cars present concerns electrics. Dashboard gauges (the fuel and oil pressure gauges seem to be the guiltiest parties) can tell all sorts of lies if a sender connection is either badly earthed, corroded or loose. 
If all else fails, it’s worth checking the major earthing point located on the brake pedal box, since many of theelectrical harness systems and engine electrics are earthed here.

3 Juddering from any car’s steering at low speeds should always be investigated as a matter of course, since it’s usually indicative of something seriously awry. Where the Excel is concerned, however, chances are it’s all part and parcel of the car’s inherent design. For reasons best known to Lotus, the Excel’s steering geometry was designed intentionally without any form of front-wheel Ackerman angle. So the two front wheels lack the geometry whereby they describe differing arcs as the steering wheel is turned to ensure their perpendicular angle meets the rear axle line at the same point., meaning low-speed manoeuvres in an Excel can be disconcertingly scrabbly and juddery affairs, especially on loose surfaces. It sounds alarming, but the factory insisted from the outset that the Excel’s high-speed handling and steering feel was much improved as a result of this idiosyncrasy. They are pointy but ‘alive’ in your hands at speed. 

4 Like many Lotus models before it, the Excel relied heavily on out-sourced parts throughout its construction, meaning tracking down spares is easier than usual. Some are obvious – the tail lights are inverted Rover SD1 units, for instance. Naturally the moisture drain holes are therefore placed incorrectly, so they can fill up with dirt and mould. Other details are less obvious; following Toyota’s involvement of Lotus in the development of its Supra sports coupé, the Mk2 Supra’s W58 manual transmission was used in early Excels (albeit in conjunction with a Lotus bellhousing), together with the driveshafts and differential. Similarly, the clutch master cylinder is shared with the Toyota Carina Mk2 and various Celicas, while the pop-up headlight motors are also used on the Mk1 Toyota MR2.


5 The Excel’s 2.2-litre slant-four Type 912 engine is generally a fairly robust unit, but again can suffer from iffy electrics. A persistent misfire and/or stalling may be traced back to fuel starvation issues, but it’s not unheard of for the distributor’s pick-up wire to create similar problems. Replacing an original or cheap after-market distributor is generally thought to be a good place to start when attempting to rectify a poor-running Excel engine.

6 You won’t suffer any rust issues with that Oliver Winterbottom-designed (and for the Excel, Peter Stevens-tweaked) wedge-shaped GRP body, of course, but look carefully for common related issues. Star cracks, crazing, mis-matched paintwork and impact damage all suggest less than kid-glove treatment.

7 Poor front seats? Those from the contemporary Jaguar XJS slot right in, using the existing seat runners. They are slightly narrower but much easier to find.
 

OUR VERDICT
Think ‘1980s Lotus’, and most people instantly picture the Esprit turbo. That’s a shame, but it does mean that Excel values, have remained super-low for many years. Silly-priced ultra-low milers still pop up every now and then, but the fact remains that even mint Excels won’t set you back by much more than £6000 – and that’s from a dealer. Lower your sights a little, and you can still bag a perfectly good example for around £4000.
The interiors – of earlier cars in particular – might make you wince a little, with their ruched leather and faux wood trim, but get one onto a tricky back road with lots of dips and blind cambers, and you’ll soon learn to tune it out as you exploit these cars’ legendary performance and handling.
Is the Excel one of the performance car bargains of the decade? We certainly think so.

DAF 55 & 56

The four-cylinder DAFs – the 55 and the 66 – may be quirky, but they offer a very intelligent solution to city transportation...

Misunderstood for decades as a ticking technical time bomb, the DAF family is, in reality, far from being so. Known as the easiest car in the world to drive when new, these Dutch-built city cars are equally simple to live with and maintain.

Launched in 1967, the DAF 55 was a four-cylinder version of the two-cylinder 44 – itself a Michelotti-styled redesign of the older 750 model. Coupled to the Renault-sourced powerplant was DAF’s version of the automatic gearbox – the Variomatic. 

With De Dion rear suspension and a facelift in 1972, the 66 was born. This lived out its final days as the Volvo 66, following a takeover by the Swedish firm.

VITAL STATISTICS

DAF 66

Engine                                    1289cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  47bhp@5200rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 73lb ft@3000rpm

Top speed                                89mph

0-60mph                                  19.8sec

Consumption                            35mpg

Gearbox                                    Automatic

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

As you’d expect from a steel-bodied classic from the ’60s and ’70s, DAFs can rot readily. Corrosion targets the lower sections of the bodywork in particular, so pay close attention to the floorpans and chassis members. Sill strength is crucial, so try to assess how well any repairs were carried out – like many lower-value classics, cheap repairs were a fact of life. Door bottoms and rear quarters are likely to have suffered on rough examples, as will wings and wheelarches. Replacement panels are hard to come by, although keeping an ear to the ground within the club, or shopping in the Netherlands, can yield results.

 

ENGINE

The water-cooled Renault engine was used in various cars and is renowned for taking hard use in its stride. Fitted to the DAF 55 in 1108cc form, the 66 offered the option of a larger 1289cc unit. Watch for oil being burned in high-mileage units, which points to valve guide wear or excessive bore wear. Ensure the cooling system isn’t clogged up, and that service intervals have been adhered to.

As a car suited to town driving, low-mileage DAFs will have been used with plenty of choke and insufficient time to get up to temperature. As a result, sluggish performance may be due to the valves being coated in carbon and not seating properly – a simple de-coke should restore power.

 

RUNNING GEAR

The Variomatic transmission is a remarkable design, but there’s no reason why it should be feared and a competent home mechanic should be able to keep the simple system in check. A test-drive will ensure the transmission functions as well as it should in forward and reverse. A vacuum system is at the heart of the Variomatic, controlling ratio changes. If the transmission fails to work correctly, then there is a good chance that one of the system’s pipes or diaphragms is at fault.

The 55 used twin drive-belts in conjunction with swinging arm rear suspension, while the 66 utilised only one belt with a De Dion set-up. Clunking while on the move is most likely due to the car having been sitting for a long while, resulting in the highly tensioned drive-belts taking an oval shape rather than remaining flexible. The club can supply new drive-belts for both models.


INTERIOR

Interior trim and exterior fittings can cause a headache if anything is missing or damaged, due to the scarcity of replacements. Secondhand items occasionally turn up, but be prepared for a lot of searching. Re-trimming could be the only solution to an interior in poor condition.

The Volvo version of the 66 featured heavily modified fittings, from its quad-lamp grille and heftier bumpers to modified seating. With only a handful of Volvo 66s still surviving in the UK, any parts which are unique to the model will be even more difficult to replace. Ensure that everything is present and correct on the car you’re inspecting.

OUR VERDICT

Combining Euro urban chic with surprising usability, the four-cylinder DAFs have a lot to offer. The mix of unburstable Renault power with that ingenious transmission means that either 55 or 66 makes a sensible, yet individual choice of usable classic. With values still low, now is the time to buy – before collectors start to realise their true worth.

LOTUS ELITE/ECLAT (1974-83) REVIEW

Fancy a classic Lotus wedge? Chris Randall helps you choose the best...

 

Lotus founder Colin Chapman could never be accused of lacking ambition. In 1970, he outlined plans for a new range of cars, which would ultimately evolve into the production in 1974 of the Lotus Elite Type 75 (to distinguish it from the earlier Elite Type 14) and the fastback Eclat a year later. Both models suffered from high prices compared with their opposition, so final production numbers were somewhat below Chapman’s expectations,  but today these stylish cars are available for very tempting prices. 

Owning a Lotus has always been about the driving experience and with the marque a byword for superb handling, these front-engine models don’t disappoint.  As long as the suspension is in good fettle, an Elite or Eclat offers tenacious grip allied to a well-controlled ride, making them a fine choice for covering long distances in comfort.  Accurate and responsive steering and feelsome brakes add to the enjoyment, and allow you to make the most of the performance on offer. 

The 2.0-litre engine boasted a useful 155bhp and 135lb ft of torque, resulting in a car capable of cracking the 0-60mph sprint in just eight seconds before topping out at 125mph.  The engine needs revving to get the best out of it, though, with maximum power not arriving until you’re past 6000rpm, so the extra torque of the later 2.2-litre unit makes for less frenetic progress. 

As well as looking great - thanks to the pen of talented designer, Oliver Winterbottom - the Elite is also practical with its 2+2 seating layout and glass hatchback; the Eclat made do with a smaller and less useful boot opening.  Space in the back is a bit tight and adults probably wouldn’t have wanted to spend much time there despite what period adverts would have had you believe, but things are much better up front.  Sitting close to the floor in comfortably reclined and bolstered seats, and faced by an imposing dashboard, the view out through the steeply raked windscreen to the low, low nose is pure sports car. 

It’s just how a Lotus should be.

 

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine           1973cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power            155bhp@6600rpm

Torque          135lb ft@5000rpm

Top speed    125mph

0-60mph        8.1secs

Economy      22mpg

Gearbox        5-speed manual

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

1. The Elite was the first model to use the innovative VARI (Vacuum Assisted Resin Injection) process for the GRP bodywork, and quality was high so it lasts well.  Even so, check the condition carefully looking for cracks and accident damage and signs of star crazing as repairs will likely need professional attention.  And bear in mind that a top-notch respray won’t be cheap due to the preparation required.

2. The chassis on the other hand needs closer examination as rot is common, and can cost a fortune to put right.  They were un-galvanized prior to May 1980 so check carefully, focusing on the areas around the engine and steering rack mounts, the front cross-member, and the differential.  The rear cross-member is another rot-spot, not helped by the sound proofing material above it which absorbs moisture allowing it to corrode away unseen. You’re looking at body removal if it’s bad, and while a new chassis can be had for around £2000 the labour cost is substantial.  And check the condition of the windscreen as leaks are common due to failed bonding; the anodized exterior trims are easily damaged during removal which is the only cure.    

3. Both 2.0- and 2.2-litre (from 1980) engines are more reliable than you might think, but proper care is the key to longevity.  The former can suffer from cracked exhaust manifolds, while all engines need checking for oil leaks as perished seals and gaskets can make curing them a depressingly common occurrence.  Radiators and water pumps can be a weak spot as well and ignoring coolant loss risks head gasket failure.  And regular cambelt changes are crucial, especially on early engines that used a square-toothed belt that can jump on starting the engine.  You’ll find Dellorto carbs on most engines, and fuel can leak from split diaphragms with an obvious risk of fire.  A full engine re-build isn’t cheap either, so be wary of mechanical basket cases. 

4. The early Austin Maxi-derived gearbox was a bit weak for the job and parts are getting rare, although the later Getrag item was better.  Check for the usual signs of weak synchromesh and obstructive shifts.  More troublesome is the cable-operated clutch; the cable runs round a pulley which can seize, causing the cable to snap.  A hydraulic set up can be retro-fitted, at a cost.  Otherwise, it’s a case of checking for clunking UJs, whines and oil leaks from the differential that can contaminate the inboard rear brakes, and noisy rear wheel bearings (they are Maxi items) which are a common issue.

5. Worn wishbone and anti-roll bar bushes are the usual extent of suspension problems, although a complete overhaul can get pricey.  However, a support pin for the rear wishbones, located at the differential, can shear and worn front trunnions are common.  Check for corrosion of suspension parts and around the mountings, too.  Steering-wise, look for PAS fluid leaks from the pump and rack while stiffness can be a sign that the steering column UJ is seizing.  The main problem with the brakes is the inboard rear drums which are a pain to service and often get overlooked, so ensure they are operating okay.

6. Trim materials weren’t especially robust, and the pale fabrics are easily soiled, so don’t be surprised if the cabin is a bit tatty.  And while most parts are available, bear in mind that refurbishment is a pricey business.  It’s not unusual to find water damage either; condensation will damage the roof lining, causing it to sag, and will also play havoc with the electrics so check everything works.  And the wiper mechanism can be troublesome, and a proper fix can require dashboard removal leading to some being bodged.  Lastly, check the pop-up headlamps are working properly; they used a vacuum system and sorting problems with the solenoids and pipework can be a frustrating business.

 

OUR VERDICT

The combination of sharp looks and impressive dynamics are very tempting but care is needed as the Elite/Eclat can hide the sort of problems that risk laying waste to both bank account and sanity.  A good one, on the other hand, will be a very special experience indeed, so get specialist advice before taking the plunge.

Prices for the Elite and Eclat are pretty similar, with the former edging it perhaps, but it mainly comes down to preference.  That and condition, which is the most important thing when considering either model.  Interest and values were low at one time but that’s beginning to change as the Lotus wedge models become more sought after, but while cheap examples are out there a full restoration will never make financial sense.  Think very carefully before taking on a project.

LOTUS ELAN SPRINT REVIEW

The most potent of the original Elans; the Sprint needs buying with care...

The pedals are close together, so care is needed. Once on the move, the engine delivers plenty of power with a wonderful barking engine note. The slick gearchange is a delight, allowing you to keep the engine at peak power. It’s the handling that astonishes though. It’s so light to control yet so uncannily good in the bends. Grip levels truly amaze, while the steering keeps you informed clearly about how you are doing. Push it too much in the wet and yes, the rear end can get lively. You’ll want to push it though, just because of how good it feels; the Elan quickly becomes addictive.


VITAL STATISTICS

1970-1973 Lotus Elan Sprint

Engine                                    1558cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  126bhp@6500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 113lb ft@5500rpm

Top speed                                118mph

0-60mph                                  7sec

Consumption                            25mpg


WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

The biggest problem is knowing if a Sprint is genuine. It’s very easy to make a non-Sprint look like a Sprint, as paintwork was generally the only clue. Club Lotus holds details of the original chassis records, so can help on this score. That said, Lotus itself converted some S4s into Sprints – the Sprint was really only a run-out model to shift Elans once the new Europa had arrived.

Make sure that the headlamps pop-up as they should. They are vacuum operated, using the chassis front crossmember as a reservoir. Check the nose carefully for stonechips. Finding an Elan on its original chassis is increasingly unlikely, though it may command a premium – as long as it isn’t rotten. Ideally, you need to be able to get under the car to take a thorough look. 

You can still get a replacement chassis from Lotus for about £1800, though by the time it is fitted, you could end up spending £8000 or more as you really need to refresh the mechanicals and all suspension bushes while you are at it. 

The windscreen frames can suffer, especially on a restoration project. Make sure it isn’t prone to movement on a drophead – which the vast majority of Sprints are. Make sure you check the hood for condition – easily forgotten if checking a car on a sunny day. Check that the windows operate smoothly.

Some Sprint coupés have been converted into dropheads. This generally isn’t a problem, due to that strong, backbone chassis, but can affect values. The chassis number is the giveaway – again, Club Lotus can help confirm what the specification was when it left the factory. Sprints also had the bulged bonnet fitted. In addition, improved bonnet catches were used.

  

ENGINE

The Sprint engine features a two per cent increase in power over standard Elans. The Big Valve engines are clearly labelled as such. They’re fairly tough as engines go, but can burn a little oil, so the odd puff of blue exhaust smoke is generally considered normal. Watch for leaks from the water pump, as the cylinder head must be removed to replace it. 

An electric cooling fan is fitted, so make sure it isn’t trying to run all of the time once up to temperature. It should cut in as required. An engine rebuild will likely cost around £4000, so listen out for big end knocks and be concerned if clouds of blue smoke are produced. 

Gearboxes are generally hardy, with a delightful, precise action. Crunchy changes suggest either a dragging clutch or weak synchromesh. A very few late cars had a five-speed gearbox.

 

RUNNING GEAR

The rear suspension originally used rubber doughnuts, like a MkII Triumph Vitesse. As with the Triumph, there were supply issues a few 

years ago, but you can now get quality replacements. It’s generally the preferred option, though some have converted to sliding or CV joints. Listen out for creaks or rattles from the
rear end and if you can, check the differential mountings.

Suspension condition is very important. These were a ground-breaking car when new in the handling department, and they should still feel exceptionally good today. A car that feels skittish or bouncy probably needs new dampers.


INTERIOR

Inside, most trim is available but seat frames can be a problem. Give them a good wiggle to check that they aren’t broken or loose. Later Sprints had the key on the steering column rather than the dashboard. Make sure all of the dashboard gauges work correctly.


OUR VERDICT

With rising values, now really is the time to buy. It seems wrong to see a car such as the Elan as an investment though. It’s from behind the wheel that the Elan really delivers pleasure, with its age-defying performance and handling. 

CITROËN 2CV REVIEW

Loved and loathed in equal measure, but prices for the venerable Citroen 2CV 'tin snail' are nevertheless in the ascendancy.

At nearly 3.9 million cars sold, the 2CV may not be quite the mega-seller it’s often made out to be, but it’s still pretty ubiquitous. Ubiquity doesn’t always translate into lowly prices, though – values solidified shortly after its demise in 1990 and prices of good ones have been increasing steadily ever since.

You certainly don’t buy one for an electrifying driving experience, but as a practical, good value and well-known starter classic, it has few peers.

Here’s how to buy the best.

VITAL STATISTICS

Citroën 2CV

 

Engine                                    602cc/2-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  29bhp@5750rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 30.5lb ft@3500rpm

Top speed                                71mph

0-60mph                                  32.7sec 

Consumption                           45.9mpg  

Gearbox                                   4-speed manual

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

This was a cheap car built from average steel with negligible factory rust-proofing and no real intention of it lasting much more than a few years, so it’s hardly surprising that these cars can – and do – rust with the best of them.

Thankfully, parts back-up is exceptional for all models bar the earliest corrugated panel examples, and major items such as the doors, bootlid, bonnet and wings are easily replaced.

More serious rust develops in the floor, front and rear bulkheads, around the windscreen and at the base of the A-, B- and C-pillars. The seam above the rear wings is a further common rot-spot.

Don’t dismiss uneven panel gaps as a minor problem, either, since this can be indicative of a terminally corroded frame beneath a superficially tidy body. Wherever possible, it’s always a good idea to get a good look at a prospective purchase’s underside – ideally on a service ramp.

 

ENGINE

Unless you’ve set your heart on a very early car (or enjoy driving everywhere at walking pace), it’s usually best to stick to the later (1968-on) 602cc models, which develop a dizzying 33bhp (29bhp after 1979).

Whichever engine you opt for, however, you’ll be looking at knife-and-fork mechanics, so trouble-shooting should be straightforward. Keep a weather eye out for the usual issues when starting from cold – reluctance to start, lumpy idling, blue or black exhaust smoke – and be sure to take it out on a test-drive. A persistent misfire can usually be traced back to an electrical problem – check plugs, leads, dynamo, contact breaker points, coil wire, etc. – but could also indicate low compression, and therefore an engine in need of imminent work.

These engines are notorious for oil leaks, not least around the front and rear of the block, often as a result of perished crankshaft seals. Being air-cooled, too, the cooling system needs to be up to scratch, so cars fitted with an electric fan are desirable.

 

RUNNING GEAR

All 2CVs are almost absurdly softly sprung, so consider this a characteristic rather than a fault. Excessive wandering can sometimes be down to badly corroded suspension mounting points or badly balanced wheels – either will drastically increase tyre wear, too – an obvious clue.

The brakes are unstressed, but will judder and cause the car to pull to one side if in need of replacement. Tread carefully if the rear brakes require attention, as this is a job is straightforward only if you have access to specialist tools.

Cars fitted with disc brakes – usually post-’82 – must only ever use LHM (liquide hydraulique minerale). Filling a disc-brake car with the more common DOT brake fluid accelerates O-ring/seal deterioration, and can finish the calipers and brake master cylinder off completely. Similarly, earlier models should only ever be filled with DOT fluid.

Be suspicious if the clutch adjustment screw on the bellhousing is nearing the end of its reach – it’s probably ripe for replacement. The gearbox itself is relatively simple, but look out for crunching on second and third gear, indicating worn synchromesh.

You’ll be lucky to find a car sporting a chassis hasn’t been either repaired or replaced. A new complete chassis can be had for around £700.

 

INTERIOR

Upholstery refurb kits are available for less than £200, with new hoods going for around £250. The hood requires close examination as older examples can allow water ingress, with an inevitable adverse effect on the seats and carpets. Check also for perished door and window rubbers.

Instrumentation is basic on all models and can be refurbished by independent specialists at minimal cost. Other switchgear is still obtainable from specialist breakers, but parts for very early cars are virtually non-existent now.

 

OUR VERDICT

Few cars this side of a VW Beetle have as much character as a 2CV, and if you’re looking to buy into a relaxed lifestyle, rather than invest in something to use on trans-continental tours, then the tin snail is hard to beat. Mechnically straightforward and blessed with terrific parts back-up, the charming 2CV – and the later 602cc cars in particular – are fun to drive and surprisingly practical. You can run one on a relatively shoestring budget, too.

LOTUS ELISE REVIEW

If ever a car adhered strictly to Colin Chapman’s ‘simplify, then add lightness’ maxim, then the Lotus Elise is definitely it. We consider buying one as a classic proposition today

Conceived as the spiritual successor to the Lotus Elan, the Elise ripped up the rule book for a new generation of sports car wannabes in 1996. Compact mid-engined sportsters were nothing new at the time (the Toyota MR2 had been around since 1984 and Fiat/Bertone X1/9 production had stopped only seven years previously), but the Elise came as a flyweight bolt from the blue after years of development of the weighty Esprit and the opinion-polarising M100 Elan.


VITAL STATISTICS

LOTUS ELISE

Engine                                    1796cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  118bhp@5500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 122lb ft@3000rpm

Top speed                                125mph

0-60mph                                   5.8sec

Consumption                            39.8mpg

Gearbox                                    5-speed manual


WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

For once, the word ‘rust’ will be largely absent here, since the Elise comprises a GRP tub that’s been allied to a chassis made from lightweight bonded aluminium extrusions.

The usual GRP checks apply, however. Mismatched paint or evidence of overspray signifies that body repairs have been made at some point. Check for crazing or star-cracks in the gelcoat, too.

That low nose renders the front foglights vulnerable to stone-chip damage. Given that repair involves the replacement of the entire unit (and the removal of the front clamshell), this can be costly. Corroded headlight reflectors should be replaced as a matter of course, too.

ENGINE

Series 1 cars used Rover’s oft-maligned K-series 1.8-litre 16-valve engine, so job number one should involve checking that both the original cylinderhead gasket and inlet manifold gasket have been replaced with later, uprated items. If they haven’t, they’re living on borrowed time.

The K-series engine is generally oil-tight, but it’s still worth checking the area around the crankshaft, as the sealing rings can fail. Puddles of fluid inside the undertray, or oil stains around the bottom of the engine, always warrant closer investigation.

Being mid-engined, the Elise’s cooling system works extremely hard, so check for failure of the coolant header tank cap, a blocked or damaged radiator and the tightness of the coolant pipe clips. The last of these can prove so weak that it will allow a pipe to actually burst off its mounting, with inevitable consequences.

RUNNING GEAR

Elises are popular with the track day fraternity, so it’s imperative that you check for evidence of any ‘offs’. Damaged (or missing) undertrays can be indicative of repeated sharp contact with speed humps, but might also have been caused by a high-speed exit from the bottom of the Craner Curves. The car should not be driven with the central undertray removed. A rattling sound from the front of the car is usually either from play in the steering rack (with outright replacement usually the only answer) or worn nylon anti-roll bar pivot blocks. 

Less seriously, the rack’s protective rubber gaiters have a habit of degrading, especially on cars that are used all year round. Play in the wheel itself is usually as a result of worn or broken ball-joints.

A suddenly obstructive gearshift action may be gearbox related, but early cars’ red hydraulic clutch pipes, which can expand and lose pressure when hot, create similar problems. Later cars were fitted with a braided pipe that solved the problem at a stroke.


INTERIOR

That lovely-looking aluminium trim is easily scratched and can eventually start to look really shabby. There’s not much you can do about this, so haggle on the price accordingly.

Vertical movement in the seats is often indicative of loose or missing retaining bolts. These should be tightened or replaced and then secured with a dab of threadlock. Stiff or non-operative windows are usually caused by loose or missing screws in the winding mechanism.

Indicator/wiper stalks are known to fail, too – but since they’re shared with various period Vauxhalls, locating replacements is currently easy and cheap.

Other common Elise irritants include sticking and/or squeaking clutch and accelerator pedals. The former is down to the flawed design of early cars’ pedal trunnions (modified after July 1999), while the latter is commonly as a result of a heat-damaged plastic throttle body. Upgrading to a metal body will solve the problem.


OUR VERDICT

Simple: for its otherwordly handling. Nothing this side of a Caterham offers the sort of housefly-nimble road-holding that a sorted Elise musters for the same sort of money.

The car’s inherent lightness makes even the K-Series 1.8 engine feel super-quick, while the close ratio gearbox and super-responsive steering merely enhance what is an already mind-blowing driving experience.

CLASSIC CAR REVIEWS - MASERATI 3200-GT

The 3200 GT was a return to form for Maserati in 1998, but has the beautiful Italian aged well? 


VITAL STATISTICS

MASERATI 3200 GT

ENGINE 3217/V8/DOHC

POWER 370bhp@6250rpm

TORQUE 362lb ft@4500rpm

TOP SPEED 174mph

0-60MPH 5.12sec

ECONOMY 16mpg

 

WEIGHTS AND MEASURES

HEIGHT 130.6cm (51.4in)

WIDTH 182.1cm (71.7in)

LENGTH 451.1cm (177.6in)

WHEELBASE 265.9cm (105.7in)

KERB WEIGHT 1587kg (3499lb)


AT THE WHEEL

It would perhaps be a slight understatement to say - especially in the earliest manual models - the GT suffers with slight sensitivity issues. Anyone somewhat heavy footed on the accelerator is going to find themselves pinned back in their seats (after the turbo delay) as the Maserati unleashes its 370bhp, smashing past 60mph in just over 5 seconds. To get a smooth drive requires a delicate touch. Not only do you need to be gentle with your feet, you need quick hands on the wheel, as the Maserati ensure its traction control works overtime, keeping very much in touch with its sporty nature – especially in the wet. It takes some skill to get a leash on the GT, and even more to be able to let it loose. If you can handle it, the GT rewards with rollercoaster like thrills alongside a raw, sporty, adrenaline filled driving experience.


WHAT TO LOOK FOR

1 The exhaust back boxes on the 3200 GT have been known to rot, so make sure you check their condition and if they have ever been changed. Directly from Maserati a replacement can set you back over £1000, but independent businesses can provide and fit for about £800.

2 There is one particularly regular fault concerning the Maserati 3200 GT, the throttle body. Considering the sensitivity of the throttle inthe first place this issue can leave the vehicle almost impossible to drive safely. Due to poor design the throttle body narrows the margin between idle and full throttle with use, this is in fact an issue with the majority of Maserati 3200 GT’s out there. This can be solved by an engine reset, or in the worst case scenario a replacement throttle body which could cost you up to about £380.

3 Maserati V8 starter motors suffer from some problems, mainly due to their position within the V8 and the fact it isn’t best suited for use in a V8 vehicle. Water from minor leaks from the coolant distribution pipes underneath the inlet manifold can often cause the motor to fill with water, so make sure you take a good look in there. A new starter motor will put you back £149.

4 The 3200 GT is oil thirsty, so ensure that the previous owner has been regularly changing the oil, perhaps even more so than is recommended by the manufacturer. It is also important that they have been using synthetic oil, preferably Selenia Racing oil – which is perfect for turbo V8 Maserati’s.

5 Another regular part of maintenance on the 3200 GT is the cam belt, which should be changed somewhere around every 18,000 miles. Check to see when the belt was last replaced. Another problem can occur due to the necessity for the regular changing of the cam belt regarding the radiator. The Maserati radiator is actually quite robust, but the changing of the cam belt can aggravate the joint between the lower water pipe and the side tank, sometimes causing it to crack.

6 On the inside things should be looking pretty good as the interior is pretty hardy, although the lighter leather may be looking a little grubby. If things are looking shabby, then there is a good chance the vehicle hasn’t been looked after properly and the checks you make need to be even more extensive.

7 The tires and bodywork should be in good shape, but then considering the performance capabilities of the 3200 GT it can be predicted that even the hardiest of tires may have had a rough ride and the body may have had a few bumps and bruises, so keep an eye out. Pay particular attention to the rear tyres which are the most likely to be looking worn.

8 Probably the most important factor when checking out a 3200 GT is what the service history is like, you should be looking at a fairly extensive list, if not you have to question the honesty of the seller and the quality of the vehicle. Depending on the mileage you should probably be seeing new brake discs and pads, cam belt changes and multiple oil changes.


OUR VERDICT

It takes a lot to be an owner of a Maserati 3200 GT. You need money, you need patience and you need a pretty high standard of driving ability to get the best out of the Italian speedster. If you have these things then yes, the 3200 GT is a great investment which will almost definitely fulfil your driving needs, providing fun, adrenaline and speed for fairly expensive running costs. What if you don’t really have those things? Then maybe it’s best to look for a slightly less expensive, less troublesome, less difficult, nippy little speed machine.

WHY SHOULD I BUY ONE? The first Maserati made under the then new owners Ferrari in 1998, the Maserati 3200 GT was designed to score high in the looks department in homage to the 1957 3500 GT, and score high it did. The boomerang styled rear lights and departure from the previous square like styling of preceding Maserati’s ensured that, as far as aesthetics went, the 3200 GT was more than pleasing.  There is no denying that the manual gearbox of the earlier models was unrewarding, and the throttle rather sensitive, but with the right level of driving ability the GT can be tamed into becoming one of the most exciting driving experiences around.

CITROËN CX REVIEW

Technological showpiece, style legend: or both? Manufactured from 1974 to 1991, the Citroën CX is widely regarded among enthusiasts as being the last of the true Citroëns, as it was the last car designed before the firm was taken over by Peugeot.

The initials CX refer to the French initials for coefficient of drag, a hint at the huge aerodynamic leap the car had taken over its predecessors and competitors. In addition to the sleek new shape, the CX featured technological advancements that made it one of the most exciting cars of the era including hydro-pneumatic self-leveling suspension, speed-adjustable power steering and sub frame mounted suspension to reduce road noise. The suspension setup on the CX was derived from the DS and went on to be used successfully by Rolls-Royce on the Silver Shadow and Silver Spirit cars. 

VITAL STATISTICS

CITROËN CX

Engine                                    2347cc/8V/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  115bhp@5500rpm 

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 137ft lb@2750rpm

Top speed                                108mph

0-60mph                                  12.4sec

Consumption                           20mpg

Gearbox                                    5-speed manual

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Early CXs will be more prone to rust than later models, decent rust proofing and higher quality paint was only added in 1980. Check the boot floor for damp, lift any carpets and give it a firm poke. If there is any rust or crustiness, walk away. Feel inside each of the arches for loose rust. Dirt collects easily and the arches will rust from the inside out. Check the bottom of each door, drain holes frequently clog and they tend to go here first. Look for bubbling at the corners of the sunroof; it is a good indication that the roof skin will be rotten.

ENGINE

Check that the service history is comprehensive and that there are no gaps. Providing the car has been well serviced, the engine should outlast the body. Check there is no clutch slip, particularly on manual and turbo versions, where the engine needs to be removed to replace the clutch. 2.5-litre petrol injection engines are prone to flywheel ignition sensor failure. If the rev counter doesn’t move on startup or the car struggles to start when hot, assume it needs to be replaced. Check that coolant has been used and not water, and ensure that there is no oil present. Look for ‘mayonnaise’ around the oil filler cap, walk away if there is any trace.

 

RUNNING GEAR

Complex hydraulic system can hide a myriad of problems. Check the hydraulic fluid, it should be mineral based and light green in colour. If it is red or brown walk away, it is probably contaminated with Dextron II, which will damage the system. Fire the car up and push down on each corner, there should be a good amount of give. If it feels very firm the shocks may need replacing. Hydraulic pumps can be a weakness. Allow the car to idle and check that the pump activates every 30 seconds or so. If it runs continuously or with more regularity it may suggest a leak in the system. Speed adjustable power steering is fairly reliable, but make sure you take a test drive through a variety of conditions. Check it doesn’t pull to the side under hard braking, CXs are notorious for high levels of front brake wear. Check the jacking points to make sure they’re solid.  

Check rear suspension mounts for rust, and feel under the rubber trim on the lower windscreen surround. If there’s any rust avoid the car.


INTERIOR

Dashboard lights tend to have a mind of their own, but make sure you check them when the car is running. 

It may be gremlins, but assume any warning lights are correct and take heed. Be especially wary of electrical problems in later cars with ABS, they have complex computer systems and problems can be expensive to track down. 

 

OUR VERDICT

The Citroën CX is to many enthusiasts the last ‘proper’ Citroën. Design is very of its time, and exceptionally modern looking for what is now an aging classic. 

As a statement of style you would be hard pressed to find something more unusual – very much in the Citroën and Saab vein – which now seems to have gone out of fashion. 

The ride is famously smooth, engines reliable, and interiors spacious and comfortable. On top of all this, it seems to be following in the footsteps of the DS and holding its value much better than similar cars of the period.

 If DS values are any indicator, it seems to be one to watch. If you have a minter we suggest you hold onto it, it’s sure to rise in value in the future. 

MASERATI GHIBLI REVIEW

Giorgetto Giugiaro declared it one of his greatest creations; Henry Ford II was the first man in America to own one; and just 125 examples were built. The Maserati Ghibli Spyder was a trendsetting masterpiece that ushered in a new era of waist-high supercars.

Henry was famous for using his Ghibli for commuting to Detroit and would brazenly park it outside in the staff car park. When confronted by a Ford designer about his Maserati ownership, Henry’s response was simple "That Ghibli will only disappear from my parking space when you’ve designed me a Ford that looks just as good."

Now, 44 years on from its launch, the Spyder has matured into a demigod of classic car design, with good examples changing hands in excess of £200,000. The Ghibli’s low slung body, chiselled good looks, free flowing lines and long, long, sloping bonnet offer an idealist vision of a classic grand tourer.

It’s almost impossible to think that it took a young Giorgetto Giugiaro – then working for Ghia coachworks – just three months to design it. The coupé was an instant hit when it was unveiled to the world at the 1966 Turin Motor Show; it was a bold step and provided proof that Maserati was no longer in the business of playing down the looks of its cars.

The Spyder appeared two years later, in 1968. The bodies were manufactured at Ghia and then assembled at the Maserati factory in the same assembly lines as the coupés. Rumours that the Spyders were originally built as coupés, and then modified at Carrozzeria Campana, where quickly rejected by Maserati.

The Ghibli’s five-year production run saw Maserati build 1149 coupés, but just 125 Spyders were built. However, despite the limited number, the Spider represented a massive step forward for Maserati; it had produced an enigmatic classic that would go on to be voted as one of the best looking cars of the century; evidence that Giorgetto had little trouble matching Leonardo Fioravanti when it came to designing beautiful GT cars.

Our Ghibli Spyder was built in 1970, and first sold in the USA before it was shipped to the UK in 1980. It has covered just 35,000 miles in the past 44 years, which makes it a rare and desirable example of GT nostalgia. Swing open its sleek driver’s door and you’re confronted with an interior that’s meticulously well presented. The cabin is decorated in swathes of red leather and as you climb inside, the deep, luscious seats embrace you like a long lost friend. They provide perfect balance between comfort and posture, making them ideal for long distance cruising.

Like its outer skin, the cabin is well sculptured, with symmetrical dials that peer out of the leather like blackened portholes. Being a 1970 example, this car features rocker switches in place of the toggles that featured on the early Spyders, which gives the interior a smarter, more uniformed appearance. The glovebox reveals a comprehensive history file containing information and invoices from renowned marque specialists.

Maserati. A replacement wiper motor here, a reconditioned gearbox there – we even found evidence of work involving recondition ing of the gearbox. This Ghibli has been well looked after, but all the work is testament to general wear and tear. Our investigations into the car’s history show, for the most part, this car is largely original and unrestored.

Turn the key and the V8 engine comes to life with a low, bassy rumble that’s almost lost in the early summer morning air; however, a quick dab of the deep-rooted throttle pedal is all that’s needed to provide a reminder of the 310bhp lurking beneath the bonnet. The 4.7-litre engine is the same version of the four camshaft V8 found in the Quattroporte, but with dry sump lubrication to achieve the bonnet line and improve the centre of gravity. Maserati claimed 310bhp, but never disclosed where the extra 20bhp came from that distinguished this engine from the one used in the Quattroporte.

Featuring a three-speed Borg Warner automatic transmission, the Ghibli requires a gentle but purposeful hand action to activate ‘drive’ and venture out onto the roads of Gloucestershire. The Ghibli utilises a tubular steel chassis featuring independent front suspension and a leaf-sprung live rear axle with single locating arm, which results in a lot of movement at low speeds. In fact, it bounces and hops along the uneven country lanes that surround Cheltenham, but things tend to even out when you find more agreeable asphalt.

Stretching out to more than 15 feet long, and six feet wide, this is a large car, but it doesn’t intimidate. Ironically, the interior is relatively cramped and being a six-footer I find that my head practically rises above the windscreen, which forces me to slouch my body unnaturally back into the seat, poke an elbow on the window frame and embrace the fully laid-back driving style that the Spyder demands.

Thump the throttle, and the V8 responds quickly as the Borg Warner ‘box drops a cog to facilitate the Maserati’s sudden injection of pace. The 4.7-litre V8 provides a wonderful bellowing soundtrack that booms out like an Italian opera star refining his vocal range. The engine reaches its peak at around 5500rpm, while maximum torque is delivered at a relatively lowly 4000rpm, ensuring plenty of mid-range pull.

At speed, the Ghibli is predictable and neutral in its handling, albeit with a hint of understeer. The biggest criticism lies with the power-assisted steering that lacks feel and, at times, leaves the wood-trimmed steering wheel feeling vague in the corners. It isn’t enough to spoil the driving experience, but its ambiguity takes some time to become accustomed to. Thankfully, the same cannot be said for the brakes, which are excellent thanks to twin-servo assisted ventilated discs with three pistons per caliper.

Hit the brakes and the Ghibli lurches to a sudden halt, as the soft springs play catch-up to the sudden lack of movement.

Unlike other cars of its era, however, the Maserati is also surprisingly easy to drive. You can just imagine powering it along a long sweeping coastal road on a glorious summer’s day, with period Van Morrison playing in the background.

 

VITAL STATISTICS

Ghibli Spyder

Engine            4709cc/V8/DOHC

Power             310bhp@5500rpm

Torque           341lb ft@4000rpm

Top Speed      168mph

0-60mph        6.4sec

ECONOMY      18mpg

Gearbox        3-speed automatic

MASERATI INDY TIPO AM116 SPORTS COUPE C REVIEW

A significant newcomer to the Maserati range came in 1969 with the Indy, a name which had been well earned. Maserati has a great racing history and had won the Indianapolis 500 on two occasions, in 1939 and 1940, a fact which touched Ferrari's nerve since the Maranello concern subsequently mounted several failed attempts to win the '500' themselves. A 2+2 coupe, the Maserati Indy was built on a Quattroporte chassis, slightly shortened and with a wider track. Styled by Vignale, the Indy was a practical four-seater Grand Touring car with a generous internal luggage compartment - a hatchback - which found a world sales market and was capable of carrying four people in excess of 150 mph. First shown to the public on the Vignale stand at the 1968 Turin Motor Show, and officially launched by the Modena company at the 1969 Geneva Show, the Indy finally replaced the outdated six-cylinder Mistral and Sebring. Like the recently phased out Mexico, it was V-8 powered using four Weber carburettors, available in 4.2 and 4.7-litre forms, this time with the addition of a 4.9-litre as well. Not too dissimilar in looks with the headlamps raised to a Ferrari Daytona at the front, and perhaps to the Alfa 2000 GTV at the rear, the Indy featured retractable headlamps and power windows as standard, these cars capable of 155-160mph with manual transmission and the option of automatic and limited slip differential, 1136 cars being produced by the end of production in 1974.

CITROËN DS REVIEW

Nobody had ever seen anything quite like the Citroen DS when it was announced in 1955. The shape was futuristic and aerodynamic, and a complex hydraulic system operated the self-levelling suspension, brakes, steering and semi-automatic gearshift.

With unstressed bolt-on panels, front-wheel drive and inboard disc brakes, the car was technologically light years ahead of its contemporaries. Roadholding was exceptional for the time, too. All this technology did not make the car fragile: the DS went on to become a successful rally machine in later years, and it still stands out as one of the most advanced and interesting cars of the 20th century.

Two problems affected the early cars: the DS19 (with 1911cc four-cylinder engine from the Traction Avant) was underpowered and rather expensive. Undeterred, Citroen introduced the ID19 in 1958, 25% cheaper and lacking the hydraulics for the steering and gearbox. This sold much better. A cavernous Safari estate was added in 1960, and from 1961 Chapron did a delicious "factory" convertible. Power went from 69bhp to 75bhp in 1961, too.

The DS was built at Slough for the UK market from 1956, with a few special features – leather seats, a wooden dash and Lucas electrics (the latter to 1962 only). Just over 8000 cars were built here before the end of 1964; Paris-built cars were finished at Slough during 1965 and then after April 1966 the cars were imported fully-built from Paris or, in some cases, the Brussels factory. The DS19 went to 1985cc (and became a DS20 from September 1969) and there was a new DS21 with 2175cc engine.  Unique to the UK was the 1964-1965 DW – with DS spec but a conventional gearbox.

From 1967, the original frog’s-eye headlamps gave way to quad lamps behind glass, and these swivelled with the steering to light the way round corners. For the 1970 model-year, a more powerful DS21 EFI (with Bosch injection) became available, and a year later there were new Borg Warner automatic and five-speed manual gearboxes. The last increase in engine size was to 2347cc in 1973, creating DS23 and DS23 EFI, the latter with 141bhp.

VITAL STATISTICS

DS21

Engine 2175cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power 106bhp@5500rpm

Torque 123lb ft@3500rpm

Top speed 110mph

0-60mph 12.5sec

Economy 25mpg

Gearbox 5-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

Check as much of the steel skeleton inner shell as you can, such as the side rails against which the doors shut. Bubbles spell more trouble underneath. Get underneath to check the main underfloor box-sections, which rot through because of inadequate drainage, and be warned that underseal often masks problems until it’s too late. Then check the upper surfaces by lifting up the sill trim and the carpets. Back wings can be checked from inside the boot and look for holes in the boot floor too. The bootlid too also traps water inside, thanks to its sponge-like seal. You can always take off the rear wings – they’re held on by one bolt – to have a more thorough check beneath. Then check the metal around the rear suspension sphere mounts. Repairs here can be tricky, time-consuming and expensive.

Check the sills, at either end, or bulging anywhere along the length. Outer panels themselves are quite expensive now, so do check them for corrosion. Front wings go around their bottom rear corners as well as the wheelarches, and the 1968 on cars often have problems around the headlamps. Rear outer wings go around their top and bottom edges. Bonnets are aluminium while roofs on the saloons – but not Safaris or Breaks – are glassfibre. However, water does get underneath.

ENGINE

The engines are all four-cylinder types with simple OHV architecture. They last very well, even though lacklustre performance persuades some owners to thrash them. Replacing the timing chain means taking the engine out, because it's at the back of the block, so ask whether it's been done! If you do need to take the engine out, take the opportunity to do another couple of jobs. One is replacing the clutch plate – an engine-out job on its own. The other is to check and overhaul the inboard front brakes, which are much easier to work on with the engine out of the way.

DS engines hail from the Traction Avant. Cracks in the alloy cylinder head can be common, thanks to poor quality or low anti-freeze. Oil filters need to be fitted properly – the triangle symbol on the casing should line up with the equivalent icon on the sump – otherwise the engine can seize. Check for head gasket problems, often caused by cylinder wet liners sinking into the block. Camshaft seals can leak oil and tappets get noisy and are often left. Thanks to Bosch making the fuel injection system on the EFi cars, it is usually quite reliable, although the flexible fuel pipes can crack and leak.

RUNNING GEAR

With the hydraulic suspension, corroded pipework is really the major issue, so look underneath for signs of coloured fluid escaping. Putting the car suspension up to high will make this easier. Pay attention to the nearside rear wheelarch area and the rear gaiters for leaks. Suspension spheres need recharging periodically, but replacement is not that tricky. Listen to how often the pump clicks; every 20 seconds or so is the norm. On the conventional parts of the suspension, driveshaft joints can wear out – there will be a knocking on full lock – and balljoints need to have been regularly greased to stop them seizing. Clunks from the rear signal rear suspension pushrod wear. Earlier cars have semi-automatic hydraulically-assisted gearboxes and if they go wrong, changes will be difficult. It takes an expert to set them up properly. On the later cars, a whine in fifth gear points to a new differential; replacement is a very involved task. Test the brakes for their efficiency; they should be very, very sharp. The front ones are inboard, and pads can take many hours to change.

Tyres for the DS can be expensive, so check them all carefully – the spare as well. Michelins were always the original fitment (Michelin owned Citroën) but the correct size and type for later cars – 185 x 15 XVS with asymmetric tread – are not always easy to find. Some owners have fitted cheap van tyres as a quick fix. Note that the rear track of a DS was always narrower than the front, to aid handling, so don't assume the wrong tyres have been fitted! In fact, on pre-1970 cars, different tyre sizes were used front and rear, too: metric 165 x 400 at the front and 155 x 400 at the rear.

VERDICT

To be honest, you probably shouldn’t go for a Citroen DS if you’re more at home with conventional engineering. To appreciate the DS, you also have to appreciate a novel approach to automotive design and, seeing as this is a Citroen, also a somewhat stubborn desire to make things quirky just for the hell of it. There’s no denying that these Citroens take more looking after than most classics, and their iconic European status is now being reflected in rising prices. But the rewards are considerable; a driving experience so smooth that it’s like being on a magic carpet, blended with enough eccentricities to keep you constantly amused and bemused.

If you plan to use the car a lot, go for a late DS23 EFI, with five-speed or automatic transmission. But if it's the technological oddities that interest you, try an early car. All models have the full-power hydraulic brakes, but ID models and the 1964-1965 DW have a conventional gearbox and clutch.

 

MASERATI BITURBO REVIEW

Maserati has produced some incredible cars over the years, but the Biturbo has long been the black sheep of the family. Is its reputation deserved? Read our buyers guide to find out.

 

If you want a glamorous badge, comfort and serious performance, but you’re almost potless, a Maserati Biturbo could be just the ticket. This grand tourer came in a bewildering array of guises, all of which offer performance and comfort aplenty, but running costs can be high, while good cars are less common than you might think.

The Biturbo debuted in December 1981 as a two-door coupé, with a 180bhp 2.0-litre twin-turbo engine. Available with left-hand drive only, it was joined by the two-tone Biturbo S in 1984. The first of the Biturbo-based four-door saloons, the 420 and 420S, debuted in 1984, also in left-hand drive form only and 2.0-litre engines.

A Biturbo Spyder concept designed and produced by Italian coachbuilder Embo was shown at the 1982 Turin show, but the production Spyder that appeared in 1984 was designed and built by Zagato, with a wheelbase shortened by 11cm. Initially this featured a 2.0-litre engine, upgraded to a 2.5-litre engine for 1985.

The 192bhp 2.5-litre Biturbo and 425 saloon reached the UK in 1986 with right-hand drive; the same year saw a choice of Weber-Marelli fuel injection or carburettors for the Italian market. The following year saw the demise of carburettors on Italian cars and in 1988 the UK followed suit. In the same year the 430 superseded the 425, with a 2.8-litre engine – the 2.8-litre 228 also arrived. This was a two-door coupé that was a longer, wider and taller Biturbo.

The Karif broke cover at the 1988 Geneva salon. Essentially a Spyder with a fixed roof, the car used a 245bhp 2.8-litre V6. The Biturbo’s engine was enlarged to 2.8 litres for 1988, and the car was renamed the 222E. At the same time, ventilated discs were introduced at the front and the Spyder was renamed the Spyder E. Two years later the fixed-head models were axed, but the Spyder soldiered on until 1994. Based on the Spyder floorpan, the Shamal is the hottest variant of all. Revealed in 1990, it was powered by a 325bhp V8; RHD UK sales began in 1992.

 

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine                            2790cc/V6/DOHC

Power                            248bhp@5600rpm

Torque                           282lb ft@3500rpm

Maximum speed              142mph

0-60mph                         6.6sec

Fuel Consumption           18-22mpg

Transmission                   RWD, five-spd manual

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

SUSPENDED BELIEF

Fuel injected models have six track rod ends, four of which wear quickly. Play in the steering means they’re due for renewal, at £500. Carburettor cars used solid discs all round, and the front ones can wear quickly, but injected cars have ventilated discs at the front, which are tougher. The handbrake mechanism is notoriously poor.

 

ELECTRIC AVENUE

Windows, starter motors, air-conditioning and warning lights can all play up. The fusebox is a printed circuit board, which burns out; it has to be repaired (for around £400) while the electric window winder mechanisms fail and they’re very scarce. Some cars had fused relays which pack up. Because the cooling system’s two fans are operated by these, blown head gaskets and potentially wrecked engines could result if there’s a failure. So if idling the engine for any length of time, make sure the cooling fans cut in.

 

AVOID ROTTEN LUCK

A non-galvanised bodyshell means rust is likely; early LHD cars rotted especially badly. Focus on the bottoms of the doors, the tail edge of the bootlid and the leading edge of the bonnet and front wings. The sills, wheelarches and trailing edge of the bonnet also rot, although the Spyder’s sills were reinforced so they’re less rot-prone. It’s rot in the bulkhead below the bonnet hinges that can kill a Biturbo; this can’t be repaired economically so it’s the most important check of all. Check the front valance/spoiler for damage. Later cars sit closer to the ground and the worst culprit is the Spyder.

 

V6: DON’T BE SCARED

The Biturbo’s V6 engine is strong if maintained. An annual oil and coolant change are essential, plus a timing belt replacement every four years; the latter costs around £500. Ensure the car has had synthetic oil. Rebuilding or replacing the twin-turbo V6 is expensive, so get an expert to check its health. Whether the engine is fuelled by carburettor or injection the costs are much the same; a rebuild is £8000 and a used engine £1000-£2000. Turbochargers last well but exhaust manifolds don’t and they’re no longer available.

 

AN OILY END

Check for oil leaks as gaskets fail, usually between each cam carrier and cylinder head. Inspect between the engine and bulkhead – it’ll be obvious if it’s wet with oil. Reckon on spending £160 to fix each side. With the car so low the sump can ground, so make sure it’s intact. There’s also a sensor on the crankshaft that gets bashed if the sump is grounded – hit it hard enough and the engine will grind to a halt. Exhausts rot through quickly so check that a stainless system has been fitted.

 

TRANSMISSION MISSION

Most Biturbos had a five-speed manual ZF gearbox with a dog-leg first gear; very late cars featured a Getrag unit. From 1985 a three-speed Borg-Warner auto was offered, upgraded to a four-speed ZF auto in the 2.8-litre models. Parts to overhaul the manual gearboxes are scarce or obsolete, but the autos can be rebuilt. A Sensitork limited-slip diff featured too, but there’s no breather system, so the diff overheats when the oil seals are blown out under pressure. A breather system is now available though. A diff rebuild costs £1200 but the crownwheel and pinion aren’t available. Check for oil leaks where the propshaft goes in and where the driveshafts come out. The propshaft feeds into the diff via a torque tube, in which the splines wear. Check for clonks when taking up drive. If the splines aren’t worn it can be fixed for £400, but once the splines are eroded it’s £900 to fix.

 

STEERING IT RIGHT

Power steering was fitted to all UK cars, apart from some early imports; check for leaks from the pinion seal on the rack. Carburettor cars have the rack mounted on rubber bushes, which will rot if the engine leaks oil onto it. This causes the rack to move on its mounts on the subframe, giving the impression of a worn steering rack, but it’s the mounting bushes that need replacing. Injected cars got solid mounts.

 

OUR VERDICT

The Biturbo range is an intriguing proposition thanks to its comfort, pace and rarity, plus that trident badge on the grille. Decent Biturbos are scarce and with patchy parts availability plus potentially high repair costs you have to buy with care; superficially good cars can actually be beyond saving.

CITROËN 2CV REVIEW

The cheapest James Bond classic is also the quirkiest. We look at how to buy a Deux Chevaux...

 

Having been initially launched in 1948, into the austerity of post-war Europe, the 2CV was overhauled in 1970. The new 435cc 2CV4 and 602cc 2CV6 had circular front indicators and bigger combination lamps at the rear. From 1972, luxuries such as three-point seatbelts were introduced and in 1974 rectangular headlamps were fitted. This year also marked reintroduction to the UK market, with right-hand drive 2CVs constructed in Belgium. Special editions included the SPOT, 007 and Charleston.

 

VITAL STATISTICS

Citroen 2CV6 

Engine                                    602cc/2-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  29bhp@5750rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 29lb ft@3000rpm

Top speed                                70mph

0-60mph                                  28sec

Consumption                            45mpg

Gearbox                                    4-spd manual

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

1970s 2CVs resist corrosion better than later ones. It’s not unusual to find one on its original chassis, although a galvanised chassis is still a boon. Rot can creep in pretty much anywhere, so it’s good to know that almost every section of body is available to buy new. Replacing the windscreen section is tricky, while the same is true of the sweeps above the rear wings. Inspect around the fixed side window and above inner rear wings. Check the boot floor and the box below the rear seat. Front wings can be awkward as new ones don’t always fit well. Floors, sills and the pillars all need careful inspection. Check the chassis above and below – look for seams blowing out and thump the underside. If it rattles, that’s rot! Chassis are available from £595 but budget on £2000 for a specialist fitting. Expect to pay around £140 for a brand new roof.

 

ENGINE

All UK market cars were 602cc, with a twin-choke carburettor right at the end of production. It’s a tough engine but watch for oil leaks and blue exhaust smoke. Regular oil changes are essential (every 3000 miles). The gearbox is hardy, if noisy. There’s no synchro’ on first, while third can get crunchy with wear. A 2CV4 will have been imported and may well have been upgraded to 602cc.

 

ELECTRICS

Electrics are generally 12v and reliable. There’s very little to go wrong. Voltage regulators can fail, so keep your eye on the voltmeter. Square headlamp reflectors and RHD lenses are hard to find, so check condition.

 

RUNNING GEAR

Fluid for drum and disc brake cars is not compatible. Drum brake cars use DOT4, disc, LHM. Drums still stop the cars well if adjusted correctly and the handbrake is often very good. Worn kingpins can be a problem and MoT testers get fussy about play – there will always be a little. Wear strikes the track rod ends and steering rack, so budget £200 for overhaul. Suspension rods are attached to the arms by triangular ‘knife edges’, which need regular greasing.

 


INTERIOR

Seats sag, cloth disintegrates but vinyl is hardy. Water ingress is likely, so lift rubber mats to check the floors.  

OUR VERDICT

The 2CV is huge fun but drum brake cars – or ‘drummers’ – are now quite rare. It took a while for sales to get going, although quite a few have since been imported. Classics don’t get much easier to work on, although they can feel strange to get your head around at first. The club is very supportive with its own parts scheme and a huge social scene. Neither of these models is as charming as early 2CVs or practical as later ones, but ‘drummers’ have a unique niche appeal.

 

MAZDA EUNOS ROADSTER REVIEW

Mazda’s MX5 was a clever move which caught the competition napping. The explosion of the hot hatch market seemed to sound the death knell for the sports car in the UK, with even the MGB being replaced by a hot Metro and a hairy Maestro. Mazda recognised the real reason for the demise of the sportscar industry; namely that all the models on sale had been considered by Noah prior to the building of the Ark – the Alfa Spider, the Triumph Spitfire, and the MGB were all old hat by the late 1970s, when MX5 development was begun. The MX5 was such a success that the models imported into Britain couldn’t come fast enough – and Japanese spec Mazda Eunos models began to arrive on our shores too. Almost identical to our own cars, certain difference warrant a separate buying guide.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine – 1597cc, 4-cyl, DOHC

Power - 116bhp@6500rpm

Torque - 100lb/ft@5500rpm

Top Speed – 114mph

0-60mph – 8.8seconds

Economy - 30mpg

Gearbox – 5 speed manual

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Bodywork

Perhaps unsurprisingly given how closely Mazda tried to emulate the classic British sportscar, Eunoses rust. Rear wheelarches, the trailing edge of the sills, and front chassis rails are known weak spots of the car, with corrosion having been evident on some cars before they reached their fifth birthdays. Drain holes can become blocked, trapping water in the sills which doesn’t help the rust issue. You can tell if the sills have been done by feeling them – the factory finish was a rough protective coating below the paint, where masy repaired cars will have smooth sills.

An obvious advantage is that the Japanese don’t salt their roads – a recent import will have fewer issues than a car which has spent a while in the UK. Wet boots are caused by perished rain channels round the back of the roof – easily replaceable. It should be fairly obvious not to succumb to temptation and test it with the roof down, for you can miss hood damage in this way. We’d also recommend testing how watertight it is before purchase.

 

Engines

All four cylinder, with a choice for two sizes. Early cars were 1.6, with a 1.8 option becoming available from 1994. The 1.6 was reintroduced in 1995 to combat the MGF – but was significantly detuned and feels far slower than early cars and 1.8s. And to please all those MG fans, the engine was part of an engine family known inside Mazda as the B-series! Mazda’s B-series is not known for faults, but there are a few things to check. Noisy tappets at startup is normal, but investigate if they haven’t shut up within a few minutes. Oil leaks are known, but easy to remedy once found. The bottom cambelt pulley can wear, and the cambelt itself whines when overtightened – walk away from squealing soft-tops. Misfires can be caused by faulty HT leads or the coil pack – HT leads are cheap, the coil pack isn’t. Investigate before purchase if possible.

 

Running Gear

The clutch slave cylinder is a known issue; its failure results in the clutch pedal sinking to the floor. It’s a simple enough fix though, so whilst you shouldn’t buy a car with a duff one it’s certainly no reason to sell up. Spigot and clutch release bearings can whine when the clutch is engaged – so listen on your test drive! Check that the power steering – more common on the Eunos than the MX5 – works as intended. Whilst parts are interchangeable with UK cars, the less you need to do the better!

 

Interior

Electric windows can slow or stick – silicon spray grease is useful in solving this if they’re still on their runners. Interiors were cloth and leather, and MX5s are so abundant that for standard cars it really doesn’t matter if trim needs replacing. Special editions might be harder to correctly renovate, though – one of the reasons we recommend avoiding special editions if possible. Hoods were vinyl and black as standard, though some special editions had mohair or coloured roofs. MK1s all had plastic rear windows, MK2 had heated glass. Barring these issues, there’s nothing on an MX5 interior that should pose any issues. Little of this is really relevant, for most will have had a replacement hood to the taste of the person who owned the car when it was fitted. As a rule, mohair and glass windows are more desirable than vinyl and plastic, but don’t pay any more for it if it’s already on the car.

 

OUR VERDICT

A stylish sportscar, beloved of enthusiasts worldwide, with a keen owners scene. They’re dirt cheap, well specced, and reliable enough for daily use. It’s the British sportscar for the sensible! You take one out, hare it down your favourite road without being silly, and you feel like you’ve just had the best drive of your life – the MX5 handles too sweetly to ignore. Buy one now, whilst they’re for nothing – it can’t last forever!

CITROËN TRACTION AVANT REVIEW

It’s easy to forget how revolutionary the Citroën Traction-Avant was when it was first launched. As impressive is that fact it was still ahead of the game when production ceased in 1957. 

You sit behind an enormous steering wheel. The engine (1911cc at least) is pretty responsive for the era and motorway speeds are possible, if noisy. The gearbox is a touch agricultural, and controlled by a handle that sort of flops out of the dashboard. It’s easy enough to get used to and once in top, there’s little reason to change down again.
It’s the handling of this stylish machine that really surprises though. The steering is wonderfully direct and accurate, but is heavy, even on the ‘Light’ models. The brakes are ok for their age, but need some respect. You need to bear this in mind because it’s very easy to push on a bit. The soft ride just adds to the pleasure. 

Sluggish, antiquated and skittish – none of these things characterise the Traction Avant. Despite its ‘30s design, the road behaviour of the front-wheel drive Citroëns belies their years. With a wheel at each corner, a relatively low centre of gravity, and with the front wheels doing the pulling, these cars feel sure-footed enough to be thrown into corners with drama.

Despite the curved dashboard-mounted gearlever, navigating the three-speed gearbox is an easy affair. Positive rack-and-pinion steering ensure that much of the vagueness associated with older steering boxes just isn’t there. Four-cylinder versions rely upon torque, rather than mind-blowing power, and low gearing is set up for a different age. However, this makes them all the easier to drive, and – especially with the biggest 1911cc powerplant – more than capable of clambering up any hill.

The six-cylinder models improved upon the performance of the four-cylinder cars, and it is these which make the lightest work of modern-day traffic. All models are strong performers, however, and although classic they are capable of everyday use. 

VITAL STATISTICS

Légère/Light 15

 

Engine                                    1911cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  56bhp@4250rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 140lb ft@ 3900rpm

Top speed                                107mph

0-60mph                                  12.8sec

Consumption                            19mpg 

Gearbox                                    3-speed manual
 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Rust is the main enemy of the monocoque. The first place to check is the sills, which are open-ended, encouraging corrosion. The rear suspension legs mount onto the rear of the inner sills – any rot here can cause dangerous rear axle movement. Beware of patch repairs. The ‘Jambonneaux,’ or front sill extensions forward of the bulkhead, should be inspected for bubbling or holes. Stress cracks on the floor at the back of the engine bay are simply a fact of life for Traction owners. However, ripples in the bulkhead above the side arms point to front-end accident damage.

Floor-pans are susceptible to rotting, which can be exacerbated by blocked sunroof drainage holes on Slough-built cars. The scuttle vents rot, allowing water in. Long-wheelbase cars flex much more than the short-wheelbase cars – dimples in the panels between the rear door and rear wheel are a sure sign of this.

Door gaps need to be even on all four doors – if this is not the case, it could be that the doors have dropped, or due to accident damage. Rusting roof gutters can force doors downwards. Bottom edges of doors and boot-lids can rot, as can the boot floor if drain holes become blocked.

The tail end of those elaborate, swooping front wings are mud traps, thanks to aluminium trim hiding rot. The rear wing stone-guards can also hide rust. Corrosion often takes hold in the seams between the bodywork and wings – watch out for bubbling paint and rust streaks.

 

ENGINE

Four-cylinder engines are sturdy, utilising wet-liner construction, although the oil must have been changed every 1000 miles to ensure longevity. Timing chain rattle is nothing to worry about, as no tensioner was fitted from new. Piston rings can fail on engines that have been laid up for a long time, so watch for smoke. The six-cylinder cars are also tough, but rattling while starting could be due to the starter ring gear working itself loose. Rattling while at idle is likely to be due to a loose crankshaft damper – this needs to be fixed before any damage is done. Cylinder heads are more prone to warping than those on the smaller engines.

 

RUNNING GEAR

Water pumps are mounted directly above the transmission. Any leaks can lead to water running into the bellhousing and seizing the clutch. Six-cylinder engines run hot, making an electric cooling fan a wise upgrade. A perceived juddering clutch could simply be due to a perished rear engine mount – rock the engine to check for play. Jumping out of gear or non-functioning synchromesh indicates internal gearbox wear. If the unit is noisy, particularly changing pitch on the overrun, then it could be a tooth having detached from the crownwheel – this can potentially do plenty of damage.

 

BRAKES

Clicking from the drive-shafts on full lock at lower speeds is an indication that they’re worn. Gripping the shafts and trying to twist them will test for wear.


INTERIOR

Sumptous interior boasted soft fabric and acres of space

 

OUR VERDICT

Today, the Traction Avant looks old-fashioned to the point of quaintness. However, when launched in 1934, it was a very different story. Lower, sleeker, and more aerodynamic than contemporary saloons, the new Citroën’s looks were groundbreaking, while the technology employed was out of this world. 

The concept of front-wheel-drive had been explored by others, but never perfected. Likewise, the chassis-less monocoque had been seen before. However, this combination of cutting-edge ideas, and their execution, was incredible. André Citroën had good reason to be proud of his creation.

Typically for Citroën, there was a different model for every buyer. With as engines ranging from a 1.3-litre four-cylinder to a 2.8-litre six, you could also select the four-door Light 15 (the Légère), the wider and longer Big 15 (Normale), five or six-seater limousine, eight or nine-seater Familiale, Commerciale hatchback, roadster or fixed head coupé. If you’re looking for an intriguing, useable and thoroughly charming classic, the Traction Avants should be at the top of your list.

Over a 23-year production run, 759,123 Traction Avants were snapped up by eager buyers across Europe. 

There was a good reason for this exceptional popularity – these front-wheel drive Citroëns are cracking machines. Proving that cutting-edge design really can work in the real world, any example from its sprawling range can still make an enjoyable and interesting classic choice.

Granted, this design does mean that there is added complexity over many of its contemporaries, but with a thriving club scene and many examples still on the road, you’ll be in good company if you buy carefully and wisely. 

If you desire a classic with ‘30s style, but don’t want to sacrifice modern-day usability, the Traction Avant is the car for you.

CITROËN SM REVIEW

The technically complex Citroën SM has never lost its ability to amaze onlookers and drivers alike. But be prepared for big bills if you don’t buy wisely…

 

Settle behind that quirky wheel and gaze at the sweeping instrument panel. Check out the pedals, and notice that there’s a rubber button instead of a brake pedal. Fire up and feel the car rise on its suspension. This could only be a Citroën, couldn’t it?

It’s quite a big car, but doesn’t feel like it on the road. The ride is superb and the cornering grip much better than you’d think, with only the poor lateral support of the seats discouraging spirited driving. You’ll need time to adjust to the high-geared, but very quick, power steering and the car’s width (you can’t see the right-hand front wing from the driving seat), and you will stand the car on its nose the first time you brake. Only then do you realise that you must caress the brake button rather than stamp on it.

However, there’s a delightful snarl from the V6 (which is more pronounced on carburettor cars), and a feeling of ‘rightness’ that’s difficult to describe. In absolute terms, it’s not terribly quick, but it has plenty of torque and so it feels fast. You’ll soon be dreaming about those long stretches of French autoroute, where you could really let it have its head…

 

VITAL STATISTICS

Citroën SM

Engine                                    2670cc/V6/4OHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  170bhp@5500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 170lb ft@4000rpm

Top speed                                135mph

0-60mph                                  8.9sec

Consumption                            24mpg 

Gearbox                                    5-spd manual


 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

As you’d expect, rust can be a problem. It will be obvious if there is any corrosion in the front wings and wheelarches, in the door bottoms, or in the rear wheel spats. Also obvious will be corrosion in the leading edge of the bonnet panel, which is made of Citroën’s favourite duralumin, but suffers from electrolytic action because it carries a metal trim strip. However, you will need to dig a little deeper to reassure yourself that there are no really nasty problems lurking out of sight. Check the floor of the boot, and get underneath to look at the platform-chassis and the undertray.

The power steering can mask some problems, but the car should always track straight. If it pulls to one side or the steering does not self-centre, suspect trouble with the servo motor at the bottom of the steering column. Another cause of steering pull, and especially of bump-steer, can be damaged suspension arms. If you discover these, take the hint and look carefully for other damage that has been poorly repaired. If the car’s been in a front-end smash, it’s likely the front chassis legs have crumpled and the evidence will still be there. 

 

ENGINE

Your first concern should be with the engine. Filter out the assorted noises from the rest of the car (which should be nothing more than the hydraulics and air conditioning doing their respective things), and listen for odd noises from under the bonnet. Timing chains need to be adjusted every 10,000 miles, and rattles mean they haven’t been and could fail at any moment. Listen, too, for excessive tappet noise. The sodium-filled exhaust valves tend to fail on little-used engines, although fitting aftermarket solid valves cures the problem. On injected engines, the injectors have been known to leak and catch fire! Not surprisingly, the permanent solution is to fit more modern injectors.

When you fire the engine up, the hydraulics should immediately lift the car to its normal ride height. There will be plenty of clicking, hissing and whirring, but that’s normal. If the car doesn’t rise properly, or it sits unevenly, expect trouble with the hydraulics. Although they are fine if properly maintained and the right fluid (LHM) is used, pipes can corrode, seals can blow and spheres can leak.

 

ELECTRICS

Most (but not all) SMs were fitted with air conditioning, and for some unfathomable reason it can’t be turned off. Many owners find it prohibitively noisy, and internal failure of the system can have expensive knock-on effects on other under-bonnet components. As such, you’ll often find that a previous owner has fitted a DIY ‘off’ switch, or 

that the quieter system developed by Andrew Brodie Engineering has been substituted. Either way, that’s a good thing.

 

RUNNING GEAR

The manual gearboxes are pretty tough, but can suffer from weak synchromesh. Re-building isn’t a particular problem, though. The automatic is also long-lived, being the special two-shaft version of the Borg Warner 35 that was built for Citroën and used in the DS. Spares and re-building shouldn’t be a worry. 


INTERIOR

Most cars have leather seats, but there was also a nylon fabric upholstery option, which wears through. A full re-trim is the only answer. The front seat backrests have been known to break, too.

 

OUR VERDICT

The SM exerts a strange fascination unlike that of any other car. Driving one is always an occasion, and the car turns heads wherever you go. It’s quite addictive, although you’ll need a little time to get accustomed to it. Once the penny finally drops, you’ll probably find every other car somehow inferior.

It must be emphasised that we don’t think the SM is a car for the feeble of wallet. It’s a hardcore enthusiast’s car that’s at its best when used for long-distance runs in the grand tourer tradition. It’s left-hand drive (although three were converted to RHD in the UK), which is a drawback and you wouldn’t want to use one for the school run or your weekly visit to the supermarket. It’s not really a family car, either, and the poor rear legroom makes it little more than a big 2+2. 

But if you use it as a classic toy, who cares about such trivialities?

Visitors to the 1970 Geneva Motor Show were astounded when they first saw the Citroën SM. The company had been itching to build a grand routier for years, and its acquisition of Maserati in 1968 had given it the means to do so. In essence, the 2.7-litre V6 engine comprised three-quarters of a Maserati V8, with reduced bore and stroke to keep it under
the 2.8-litre French tax break. 

The shape was astonishing. It tapered sharply towards the rear, while six headlamps – the outer pair of which swivelled – gave it an unmistakable front. With Citroën’s characteristic front-wheel drive and full-power hydraulics operating the brakes and suspension, it drove like no other car. Cruising at 100mph was easy, while 135mph was within reach.

The original triple-Weber engine gave way to an injected version in 1972, and then the triple Webers returned for a bigger-bore 3-litre version of the engine harnessed to an automatic gearbox in 1973. This was mainly for the US market, but Citroën was already losing interest, and the oil crisis did the rest before the car was finally canned in 1975.

 

 

MERCEDES-BENZ 124 REVIEW

2014 marks three decades since the introduction of the W124, yet few people consider it a bona fide classic. It’s easy to see why; there are lots of them still in daily use, whereas most classics are seen primarily at shows. But the W124’s popularity as everyday transport is testament to its usability; when it comes to over-engineered cars that offer everything you could need in one affordable package, it has few peers.

Offered in saloon, estate, coupé and convertible guises, the W124 represents spectacular value in its ious guises. That includes the two-door cars, but here we’ll focus on the saloon and estate, which offer unparalleled usability.

Launched in October 1985, at first there were saloons only, in 200, 230E, 260E and 300E flavours – or there was a 250D diesel. By April 1986 there was an estate with the same engine choices. In September 1988 the 200 gained fuel injection to become the 200E and the 300E became the 24-valve 300E-24. The 300TD estate replaced the 250TD in February 1990 then seven months later all cars got a catalytic converter as standard.

The big changes came in October 1992; that’s when all W124 engines were updated with four-valve cylinder heads. The 200E got a multi-valve head, the 230E was replaced by the 220E and the 280E replaced the 260E. at the same time, the 320E replaced the 300E and the 4Matic four-wheel drive option was dropped; it had been offered since April 1988 but proved unpopular. Such cars are now very rare.

A facelift in August 1993 saw the E become a prefix rather than a suffix (E320 rather than 320E for example), and it’s these cars, with their clear indicator lenses, colour-coded lower panels and bonnet-mounted mascot (it was previously set in the grille) that most buyers want. Buy one of these with all the right options (standard cars could be pretty basic) and you’ll have all the classic you could ever need.


VITAL STATISTICS

E320 saloon
 

Engine                                      3199cc/6-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                     220@5500

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                    228@3750

Top speed                                142mph

0-60mph                                   7.0sec

Consumption                            24mpg

Gearbox                                   4/5-speed auto


WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

The bodywork tends to last well, but check the front wings where they meet the bumper along with the inner wing under the washer bottle, the rear wheelarches and the jacking points. For the latter you’ll have to remove each of the covers to get a proper view.


ENGINE

The eight-valve four-cylinder engines (200 and 220) will cover huge mileages and are frugal too, but are a bit underpowered, especially in the estate. The multi-valve E220 is the best four-pot as it’s reliable, economical and more muscular. The diesels are also incredibly long-lived and very fuel-efficient – but they’re not all that unrefined. Best of all are the six-cylinder powerplants (260E and 300E initially, then the multi-valve E280 and E320). These are much smoother, torquier and suit the car far better. Pick of the bunch is the E320, which is already the most desirable and will always be the most collectible.

The front timing seal leaks on the earlier six-cylinder engines. These can be fixed with the engine in situ, for around £350. Distributor caps and rotor arms are weak; OE parts cost £100 and you should expect to replace these every three years or so depending on how the car is stored and driven. The fuel injection can also play up because of wear in the fuel distribution units and injectors along with vacuum leaks. Repair costs can y wildly.
 

ELECTRICS

The E280 and E320 have a wiring harness for the engine which has biodegradable sheathing. This degrades leading to misfires then costs around £1000 to fix. The price for the loom ies according to the car’s spec – it can be anywhere between £400-800, plus VAT and fitting. These engines can also suffer from head gasket leaks. Bank on spending £1200 to fix these, as you’ll probably have to do the valve stem seals at the same time – and if that harness hasn’t been replaced, you may well have to do that too. Also check the rubber engine mounts, as these can fail; new ones cost £75.60 each (four-cylinder) or £99.60 for six-cylinder items.

 

RUNNING GEAR

Most of these cars have an automatic gearbox but there are some manuals; the latter are rare and not very sought after but all W124 transmissions are bullet-proof. They all benefit from a fluid change every 25,000 miles, although the factory recommends every 40,000 miles. Back axles are strong, although estate units can eventually wear, especially if the car is used for towing. Estate diffs feature stronger bearings but the same ratios, although the ratios are different between four and six-cylinder models.

All of these cars came with power steering and unusually there’s a box rather than a rack. Leaks from the power steering pumps are rare and the boxes are reliable. Expect a bit of play in the box after a huge mileage, but this can usually be adjusted out.


BRAKES

Brakes are very reliable with nothing to worry about. All estates got self-levelling rear suspension as standard. The metal pipework for this corrodes and access is poor so the rear subframe has to be dropped - then you end up replacing all of the bushes at the same time. OE parts are expensive, but you have to use OE parts or you’ll end up having to do the job more than once.


INTERIOR

Interiors tend to wear very well. Many W124s have leather trim, but cloth is far from unusual. Predictably, it’s the driver’s seat bolster that’s most likely to be worn, but only after a huge mileage. Carpets last well and so does the switchgear and instrumentation. New parts are very costly, but there are lots of good used parts available as many W124s have been broken.


OUR VERDICT

After owning a W124, anything else will seem under-engineered. There are lots to choose from, but many are neglected and parts costs can be high.  As always you must single out a cherished car and be prepared to invest in OE parts to keep it running. And that’s just what it’ll do; it’ll keep going forever.

CLASSIC CAR REVIEWS - MERCEDES-BENZ 280-SL

The Mercedes-Benz 280 SL is indeed part of a very special lineage, starting with the infamous 300 SL 'Gull-Wing' continuing to cars such as the present day SL 55 AMG. The design of te 280 SL was orginally badged as the 230 SL in 1963. The Mercedes 230 SL was then rebadged as the 250 SL and finally, in 1967, rebadged again as the 280 SL as engine capacity rose once more. The Mercedes 280SL is widely regarded as a beautifully crafted sports tourer, the design of which is timeless. The two-seater (available with an optional, sideways facing, 'jump seat' in the rear) was powered by a 2778cc engine, using 6 cylinders to ensure a smooth driving experience. Although not available as a coupe, Mercedes-Benz did offer the option of a 'pagoda roof' removable hard top. The full choice of roofs was a soft top, a soft top with the removable hard top, or a removable hard top without the soft top underneath. Due to owners of the latter option having to be pretty confident of the weather before they took their cars out with the roof off, this option was less popular at dealers based in northern Europe and the U.K and as such earned the nickname 'the Californian'. Standard equipment on the 280SL was impressive for the time, included were all round disc brakes, tachometer, 3 point safety harnesses, wood trim and a clock. Although most cars built were fitted with 4-speed manual gear boxes, there are a few rare examples to be found that were fitted with 5-speed boxes. Parts and accessories for the Mercedes 280 SL are still quite easy to come by. Due to the prestige nature of the car there are several highly recommended and well established owners clubs and may parts are still available direct from Mercedes. Mercedes-Benz ended production of the 280 SL in 1971.

CITROËN BX REVIEW

Citroen used to build bonkers cars and while some loved the company for it, most buyers stayed away, petrified of the complex hydraulics and crazy interiors. What the company needed, if it wasn't going to go belly up, was a more mainstream model with just the right amount of individuality, but not so much that potential buyers were scared.

 

The BX was that car. It looked like nothing else on the road, yet the engineering was largely conventional. Designed by Bertone and borrowing most of its running gear from the Peugeot parts bin, the BX doubled Citroen's UK sales. If Q cars float your boat, too (that's Q for quick), the BX GTi 16V could be the classic you've been searching for.


 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

Forget the seemingly complex mechanicals; rust is what kills BXs. Plastic panels (some bonnets, all tailgates and fuel filler flaps) can allow cruddy BXs to look decent - while the structure underneath is compromised.

Front wings tend to last; they're easily replaced anyway, as they bolt on, and used ones are plentiful. Rear quarter panels are less durable, especially on estates that were built (but poorly rustproofed) by Heuliez. Replacement panels are scarce and repairs involve welding. Check the front inner wings where they meet the wheel housing; rust here is common and it's not easy to fix on cars with ABS, as the pump is on the nearside inner wing. Also check under the airbox; effective repairs entail removal of the wing and wheelarch liner to gain access. Look for rust stains in the seam sealer between wheel tub and inner wing; also inspect the windscreen surround for bubbles and previous repairs. Many BXs have had new windscreens and poor fitment leads to rust.

Door hinges can break away from the A-post when the welds give way. Repairs are possible, but a pain. If the hinge flexes as the door is opened and closed, the A-post is probably rotten. Check the top of the A-post above and behind the hinges as these can rust through.

The rear door shuts and wing rot because water and mud collect behind the rear wheel spat so it corrodes out of sight. Rust around the sunroof is rare, but check anyway, as it's difficult to repair; most hatchbacks have an electric tilt/slide sunroof, but estates weren't offered with one. Some have been sealed up because of blocked drain holes; they're at each corner of the mechanism, and clearing is fiddly, but possible. Check for damp around the aperture.

The plastic bumpers age badly but they're easy to remove and replace. Most are colour-keyed and they fade, but can be rejuvenated with a hot air gun, bumper gel or fresh paint. 16-valve models got their own bumpers that are fragile and scarce.

ENGINES
Engine-wise, there's not much to worry about. Most surviving BXs feature a 1769cc or 1905cc naturally aspirated or turbocharged XUD diesel engine, as fitted to ious PSA and Rover models. The XUD unit lasts forever if looked after, although head gaskets can fail - but the engine will still often keep working for ages. Changing the oil every 6000 miles, the coolant every two years and the cam belt/water pump every 40,000 miles (or four years) will see 200,000 miles despatched with ease. All engines have a cambelt apart from the early 1.4-litre petrol unit.

Petrol fans could choose between a 1.4 carburetted or 1.6/1.9 XU petrol in carb or injected forms. Until 1988 the 1.4 was the gearbox-in-sump unit shared with the Visa and early 205/309; later came the more modern TU unit shared with the Peugeot 106 and Citroen Saxo. The later unit is more refined and parts supply is better. Both give nippy performance, but are low geared, so they're vocal on motorways.

The .6 and 1.9 XU engine came in four-speed auto or five-speed manual forms with 80-160bhp, the latter in twin-cam Mi16 form. This engine is reliable if maintained, but carb versions go out of tune and the automatic choke on twin-choke Solexes can be unreliable. Overhaul kits and manual choke conversions are available, but the best fix is to fit more reliable Weber replacements - although sometimes the system just needs tuning.

The final cars got electronic fuel injection and catalytic converters, which rarely give problems, although air intake leaks can cause rough running and idling issues on cars with multipoint injection.

TRANSMISSIONS
Gearboxes are tough. Some basic 1.4-litre BXs got a four-speed box, but all others got five speeds; entry-level 1.4-litre cars are almost extinct now. The same BE1 or BE3 gearbox was used across the range - the two are interchangeable. Also fitted to the Peugeot 309 and 405, decent used transmissions cost £50-£100, but you're unlikely to need one. The thing likely to wear is the idler gear, which gets noisy. However, the selector mechanism and linkages can wear, but they're cheap to replace. Clutches can last 200,000 miles; as they wear they get sticky and stiff. However, these symptoms can also betray a tired clutch cable; replacements are cheap, readily available and easy to fit.

Clutch cables can also snap, while a stiff pedal can be greatly improved by lubricating teh lever on top of the bell housing. Speedo cables fail regularly but they're no longer available. They're long and run through the offside of the bulkhead and behind the dash at a sharp angle. If the speedo is wobbly or ticking, the cable is on its way out and you'll probably have to get one made specially. Automatic BXs are common and they're unbreakable if the fluid is changed correctly. Dextron 2 needs to go in, but Dextron 4 is often used - which destroys the transmission. Decent used auto boxes start at £100.

STEERING AND SUSPENSION
Most BXs have had a suspension overhaul by now. A hard, bouncy ride betrays worn spheres; they're typically cheaper than a shock absorber and can be replaced in minutes. If the rear wheels lean in at the top and there's creaking or cracking, the rear arm bearings have worn. Budget £150 per side to get them fixed. Suspension struts rarely fail (but the rubber return pipes do), although they become stiff and sticky and can groan when raised to full height. They can be lubricated, but replacement is better, although new ones are pricey at £300 (if available at all). Reconditioned items are £150 apiece on an exchange basis. A BX will settle down to its bump stops over a few hours when switched off, as hydraulic pressure drops. When started it should raise itself back up to normal height within 5-10 seconds; any longer indicates a tired pump and/or accumulator sphere, as does stiff or sticky steering or the low pressure light coming on. Both are available and are easy to fit. Finally, check for hydraulic leaks, which are obvious as the LHM fluid is bright green. Later models had coated hydraulic pipes, but the earlier steel ones fatigue and corrode; if they fail there'll be no suspension, brakes or power steering. You have been warned!

WHEELS AND BRAKES
The braking system is largely conventional in its design, with no inherent weaknesses. Everything is available and nothing is costly. Handbrake cables can seize, but they're easily freed up. On cars with ABS, make sure the warning lamp illuminates then extinguishes when the engine is started; new sensors are extinct, so you'd have to remove the system to avoid and MoT failure, or find a decent used sensor.

TRIM AND ELECTRICS
There were two basic seat styles. The softer, more sculpted standard seat that's normally covered in a tweed or herringbone fabric can wear through, especially on the driver's side. A sportier design was fitted to the GTi 8v and TZD Turbo; these were fitted to most models evenutally. The 160bhp 16-valve models got bespoke front seats with lumbar support that are supremely comfortable and supportive, but as rare as the 16v itself. Electrics can also be temperamental. Fan motors pack in (usually because of a dodgy earth) while heater controls can seize. Forcing them breaks them; replacements are available, but fitment is fiddly as they're behind the dash. The spindle wears in the single front wiper. Decent used replacements are scarce, so it's best to fit new bushes.
 

VERDICT

Why do you want one? You don't want to follow the crowd, and while the contemporary alternatives are no longer mainstream, they still lack the left-field appeal of the Citroen. However, despite its reputation, the most unusual thing about the BX is its styling; the engineering itself is relatively conventional, aside from that hydropneumatic suspension. Speaking of which, it's one of the major attractions of the BX, not a reason to run away in terror. It's reliable and endows the Citroen with a balance of ride and handling that you just can't achieve with conventional steel springing.

If you're thinking of buying a left-field classic that's eminently usable and cheap to run, the BX fits the bill. But the survival rate is poor, which is why you're unlikely to see another at a show. Most of the cars left are Mk2s (introduced in 1986) and diesel-powered; find one with a good history and you've got an ultra-practical classic. Tattycars can be bought for just a few hundred quid, while even the best examples command little more than £2000. That's top value in any language.