MESSERSCHMITT KR200 REVIEW

Always one of the most popular bubbles, the ‘Schmitt is still hot property...

Designed by Fritz Fend, the fabled aircraft producer, Messerschmitt made the Kabinenroller a production reality, to help it recover from the dearth of aircraft building in the early 1950s. All KRs were three-wheelers – the four-wheel Tiger was a different animal altogether.

Prices have been hitting the headlines of late, with over £200,000 paid for one last year. The reality is that they are far more affordable – join the club to find the best cars for sale.

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VITAL STATISTICS

Messerschmitt KR200

Engine                                    191cc/1-cyl/two-stroke

Power (bhp@rpm)                  10bhp@5250rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 11lb ft@3800rpm

Top speed                                62mph

0-60mph                                  just about

Consumption                            56mpg

Gearbox                                    4-spd manual

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WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

The ‘Schmitt is surprisingly advanced, with a unitary construction featuring strong tubes and steel bodywork. Rust is therefore a problem, with the floors rotting merrily if not protected. Lift the rubber mat inside and check, especially in the front left corner. The body is made of four sections – floor, two sides and the firewall. Those sections cost around £500 from the club, so if you’re handy with a welder, a project could be for you. Also watch for damage to the canopy. You’re looking at more than £900 for a replacement and they’re extremely fiddly to fit.

ENGINE

These two bits are effectively one unit, with the gearbox sitting in the crankcase of the engine. The gearbox is sequential, like a motorbike. They can slip out of top gear if worn, so check for this on a test drive and make sure all four gears can be selected. There is no reverse gear but you can stop the engine and make it rotate the other way around! The single-cylinder, two-stroke engine can be removed in 15 minutes by practised hands and needs a petrol/oil mix of 25:1. Some blue smoke is to be expected, but there shouldn’t be excessive amounts once warm. Listen out for a worn bottom end – there aren’t many more moving parts. Do check that the aluminium casing hasn’t been damaged or gone missing, as it’s essential for cooling.

ELECTRICS

The top-model 300SE and 300SEL had air suspension, which was high-tech stuff for the early 1960s. The ride it gives is quite remarkable, but problems can be very expensive indeed to fix, and parts are not plentiful. Buy an air-sprung Fintail with your eyes wide open, and have the phone numbers of a specialist and your bank manager close at hand.

RUNNING GEAR

Suspension is by rubber units held in tension, like modern lightweight trailers. When these fail, the result is a very poor ride. The tiny drum brakes should be up to the job, though emergency stops are best avoided as it’s easy to throw the lightweight car into a skid. The super-direct steering can suffer from bush wear; it should be exceedingly tight and free of any play. Worn kingpins or track rod bushes are another possible culprit if play is found. Check what tyres are fitted – the trailer tyres you often see on these cars aren’t really suitable. The club sells Heidenau tyres for £30 each, which have been well tested.

BRAKES

If we haven’t put you off already, there’s one more hidden area to examine for corrosion. This is the ledge on the bulkhead that supports the brake servo. Debris accumulates here and, especially if combined with leaking brake fluid, can cause the metal underneath to rot through.

INTERIOR

The interior is minimal, with rubber matting on the floor and simple vinyl seats. Watch for water ingress and wear, but a retrim shouldn’t be too costly. Electrics are also pretty minimal, but are 12-volt at least. Make sure everything works – horns often seize up as they get pelted with road muck. A Dynastart unit provides charge and starts the engine. Make sure that it does so happily as replacements are hard to find. If charging seems weak, brushes are readily available, though the engine needs to come out to fit them.

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OUR VERDICT

You don’t really need us to sell the idea of Messerschmitt ownership to you – you either gaze upon those oddball looks and fall in love, or you want to run a mile in the opposite direction. You need a certain amount of bravery to drive one on modern roads, but your reward is huge amounts of fun and surprising pace. Most change hands away from public view, so membership of the club is essential.

CITROËN DYANE REVIEW

The Citroën Dyane: we highlight the pros and cons of the 2CV sibling that’s better in almost every way...

Citroën bought Panhard in 1963, and tasked its designers with creating a ‘better’ 2CV using the Tin Snail’s underpinnings. The end result had cleaner styling, a practical hatchback, a little more performance and luxuries such as a dashboard and sliding windows. UK sales commenced in 1968, and ended in 1982. Later models had a fold-down rear seat, disc front brakes (July 1977 onwards) and an entire 4bhp more than the equivalent 2CV. The vast majority have the 33bhp 602cc engine, but 435cc engine was also available from 1970-1974.

VITAL STATISTICS

Citroën Dyane 6

Engine                                    602cc/2-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  33bhp@5750rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 31lb/ft@3100rpm

Top speed                                75mph

0-60mph                                  27sec

Consumption                            45mpg

Gearbox                                    4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Thin metal and poor rustproofing means corrosion is an issue, pretty much anywhere. Happily, right-hand drive Dyanes usually came on a stronger chassis than left-hand drive models, but check its entire length for rot. Thump the underside; if it rattles, the strengthening members inside are rotten. A replacement chassis will cost around £400, but add up to more like £2000 fitted. 

Lift the rubber mats and check the floor, sills and bulkhead, then inspect the C posts and inner rear wings. The Deux Chevaux Club of Great Britain (2CVGB) remanufactures both, as well as new sliding window rubbers. Check the windscreen surround and under the bonnet, lift out the spare wheel and check the bulkhead. 

Doors and the tailgate can rot on the edges, but replacements aren’t too tricky to find. The club holdssome secondhand panels. Brightwork can be tricky to locate but thankfully there isn’t very much of it. Bumpers were latterly stainless steel, but are very strong. They are also very sharp on the inner edges, so be careful.

Parts are easily swapped between models, so make sure you know what you are getting. Expert advice is essential if buying an early one, to make sure it really is what it says it is.

ENGINE

The better M28 602cc engine was fitted from 1968, with an external oil filter from 1970. The 435cc and the earlier (and very rare) M4 602cc engine are for collectors only really. The M28 is very tough as long as regular (every 3000 miles) oil changes have been carried out. Oil leaks are uncommon, but could be as simple as tired rocker cover seals. Watch for blue smoke on start up – it could be leaky valve stem seals or worn piston rings. A smell of fumes inside the car suggests leaky cylinder heads – they’ll need lapping in and re-torquing as there is no gasket. Engines are on the whole reliable, with 200,000 miles not unheard of.

RUNNING GEAR

Gearboxes are hardy but there is no first gear synchromesh. With high mileage, third gear synchromesh can fail. The transmissions were always noisy, so excessive noise can be hard to spot. Driveshafts rarely give trouble, but need regular greasing, as do the kingpins. There should be no play discernible at either front wheel. Clonking could be a rusted wheel catching the kingpin housing, driveshafts catching the wings or excessive play in kingpin or track rod end. Steering racks can develop play too, but can usually be repaired. 

Don’t be alarmed by the inboard front brakes. They’re simple to work on, just different. Stopping power should be excellent, even though there’s no servo. The handbrake operates on the front wheels and with disc brakes, is often poorly adjusted.  

Worn dampers will cause the ride to be very bouncy. While the suspension is soft, it should quickly settle. Suspension creaks usually mean the suspension cans need lubricating with vegetable oil. Mineral oil wrecks the seals, so ask the owner and check for damage. 

INTERIOR

Vinyl seats are tough, cloth trim usually degrades badly. Check for replacement seat covers and worn seat diaphragms – they’ll have you sitting on the floor. Otherwise there’s not really a lot of trim to check. Electrical issues are usually down to poor connections – there are a lot of bullet connectors. Cleaning them up or replacing them can make a world of difference. 2CVGB supplies a modified rear lamp as the original tail-lights are feeble. Do watch for severely worn wiper spindles. Replacements are around £50 each, and later types are becoming tricky to find.

OUR VERDICT

The Dyane offers surprising practicality along with the typical high-on-fun driving experience common to its 2CV sibling. They’re slightly more refined at motorway speeds – as in the doors don’t flap – but it’s when the road gets twisty that you’ll really get a smile on your face.    

DIY tinkering is no problem at all, though it can be very different and takes some learning. There’s excellent club and parts support, space for four adults and 45-50mpg. Values have lagged behind the 2CV for many years, but are catching up fast as rarity kicks in. Buy wisely – restoration costs quickly mount up.

CLASSIC CAR REVIEWS - MG MAESTRO

The MG Maestro was Austin-Rover’s attempt at entering the medium-sized hot hatch market. Available with a choice of three engines across a nine year lifespan, the mightiest of Maestros offers an intriguing daily prospect.

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VITAL STATISTICS

(MG Maestro EFi)

Engine - 1994cc/4-cyl/OHC

Power - 115bhp@5500rpm

Torque - 134lb/ft@2800rpm

Top Speed - 115mph

0-60mph – 8.5 seconds

Economy - 28.3mpg (urban cycle)

Gearbox - 5 speed manual

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WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Bodywork

As with any Maestro, bodywork is important; running issues are often easily and cheaply fixed whereas a bad bodyshell can cost thousands to rectify. The A-pillars and general windscreen area are places to keep an eye on – rectifying advanced rot here involves removing the bonded screen. The wheelarch to sill joins are common rust spots too, and many will have had repairs. Fuel filler pockets like to perform disappearing acts, but GRP and carbon fibre replacements are available from the MG M Group. Unlike the Austin Maestro, the MG only ever came with the plastic bumpers – as these were painted on the car, all metal behind them was left unpainted at the factory. If you’re looking at a car without a boot floor, there probably won’t be any metal left underneath it either! Tailgates can rust along the bottom edge and beneath the rear window – these are easily replaceable if a spare can be found.

A pleasing aspect of Maestro bodywork is that the metalwork is common to the Austin AND MG iants, so panels shouldn’t be hard to source. Beware however that metal and plastic bumper cars used different wings and valances amongst other items – check that any panel you’re buying in front of or behind the doors has come from a plastic bumper car!

MG spoiler sets are easily sourced, though the centre trim for the front spoiler (Removable, to enable access to the towing eye) is hard to source. The Maestro Turbo has unique bumpers, side skirts, and a unique top spoiler on the tailgate – there are reproductions available but they y in quality – it’s best if you source a car with the originals intact.

Engines

Simple Three engines in 4 overall states of tune. Early MG Maestros used the 1.6 R-series engine from the standard Maestro range, topped with twin Weber 40DCNF carburettors. Whilst these sound fabulous, they were renowned when new for hot starting issues, though those still in regular use seem reliable enough. As with the rest of the Maestro range, this unit was replaced by the S-series in July 1984, with the same twin-Weber fuelling arrangement. The principal difference was the replacement of a timing chain with a timing belt – and as with all 1.6 Maestros, oil emulsification in the filler pipe is normal and not a sign of head gasket failure. S-series MG1600s are rare, as three months later the Maestro was given the 2.0 O-series from the Montego, with fuel injection as standard. O-series engines have proven long-lived and trouble free, and the improved power and torque characteristics make the EFi a better bet as a daily driver. In 1989, Austin-Rover fitted the MG Montego Turbo spec engine into the Maestro; a 152bhp O-series with a single electronically controlled SU HIF44 carburettor and a Garrett T3 turbocharger. Many of these will have had performance upgrades, but standard cars are more likely to be in good mechanical condition.

Running Gear

The MG1600s used the same VW gearbox seen in contemporary Golf GTis – though the Austin-Rover linkages left little to be desired. This unit can be notchy in use, and the linkages are prone to popping off the box when worn. This is quickly and easily fixed – and the simple expedient of cable-tying the linkages in place prevents recurrences.  All O-series engined cars use the Honda designed PG1 gearbox from the Montego. Vague gear-changes indicate worn linkages, but search the internet and you’ll find several solutions to worn PG1 gear linkages!. Front wheel bearings wear – and due to the scarcity of components, check all cars with PAS for issues.

Interior

All interiors are Flint Grey, and there were three styles as time went by. MG1600s had specially contoured seats trimmed in grey velour and houndstooth cloth; these are supremely comfortable and hard-wearing. Early MG EFis had similar trim on the standard sports seats, whilst later EFis and Turbos had full grey velour. Until 1987, MG Maestros had red seatbelts and carpets; from then until the end of production all trim was grey.

All 1600s and EFis to 1986 model year had the early Maestro dashboard; which is prone to rattling. All post 1986 cars had the Montego style one-piece dash – rattles are not uncommon from this either, and it has a habit of cracking and lifting above the instrument binnacle. All 1600s should have the digital dashboard, which became an option for the EFi and is very rarely seen in cars with the later dash. Digital dashboards are generally reliable and easy to source if needed, but the trip computer for the one piece dashboard is hard to source. Electric windows were an option and sometimes stick – the best option is to replace the ECU or the switches.

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OUR VERDICT

They’re practical, fast, and rapidly becoming rare. With space for four adults plus luggage, easy visibility, all the mod cons one expects and decent power to (right) boot, the MG Maestro is a tempting classic daily. It will even be kind on your wallet; for the O-series engine models in particular are capable of quite impressive economy figures. Plus as with all hot hatches they’re starting to appreciate in value – the time will come when we look back and kick ourselves for not buying nice ones whilst they were cheap.

MG Maestro

MG METRO REVIEW

When even the cheapest modern supermini is equipped with all manner of modern conveniences, the MG Metro and its turbocharged sister are a breath of fresh air.They are lightweight, responsive, and perfect retro hot hatchbacks.

Despite a few drawbacks shared with lesser Metros - a rather bus-like driving position and the limitation sof the four-speed gearbox - the 72bhp 1275cc A-Plus engine buzzes along nicely. On the 93bhp Turbo, it all feels much more urgent - more capable of scaring the odd Golf GTI. On twisty back roads you'll have no trouble keeping up with supposedly faster cars and there's a go-kart quality to its direction changes, which makes it feel just like a grown-up Mini. The rasping exhaust, and rumbling A-series add to the familiarity.

The steering lightens up nicely once under way and the brakes respond sharpely, aided by larger front discs than on the standard Metro. There's a pleasingly chunky feel to the smaller three-spoke steering wheel - its beefier rim was one of the main additions to the Metro interior, along with more heavily-bolstered seats and some snazzy detailing including red seatbelts and carpets. On the other hand, the dashboard differed little from the standard models, so anyone familiar with other Metros will feel right at home despite the more colourful cabin.

The facia is farily basic, containing just simple ventilation controls and a handful of switches, although the MG did get different graphics for the instruments. The minimalist design contributes a feeling of space despite the compact external dimensions and everything is logically sited. Which means you can just get on and enjoy extracting all the performance this little MG has to offer.

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VITAL STATISTICS

Engine 1275cc/4-cyl/OHV
Power 93bhp@6130rpm
Torque 85lb ft@2650rpm
Top speed 112mph
0-60mph 9.9sec
Economy 35mpg
Gearbox 4-speed manual 

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WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

All of the Metro’s bodywork can rust, so pay close attention to the length of each sill, the rear wheelarches and the bottom of each door, particularly rear doors of five-door models. The front and rear valances also rot, especially around the seams – take a look from either side, as they’re double-skinned. Other rot spots include the fuel filler surround, rain guttering and front corners of the footwell, plus the inner rear wings and spare wheel well. MG and Vanden Plas Metros had a sunroof, so make sure the drain holes haven’t clogged, leading to the surround corroding.
The metal around each headlamp rots, as do the front wings, the strengthening panels on the bonnet’s underside, and the base of the windscreen and bulkhead. Scrutinise the front and rear subframes. The front one isn’t rot-prone but the rear one is, as are their mountings – repairs means removing the subframes for welding. New subframes are available or you can buy used ones, ready to fit, for £70 (front) and £120 (rear).
You can still get most body panels. Genuine and pattern parts crop up regularly, although you’re more likely to find wings, bonnets, door skins and valances than floorpans. Bear in mind that the Turbo featured different pressings compared with the standard Metro. Bonnets have extra louvres, while the wings have cut-away wheelarches, and these panels are now scarce. Also, standard Metros had a grille that’s blanked off on the nearside, but automatic and MG models need the extra cooling; fit the wrong grille and you’ll regret it.

ENGINES

All pre-1990 Metros featured the A-series powerplant. It was heavily reworked for the Metro, for greater efficiency and reliability, hence the A+ tag.
Renowned for its toughness this powerplant takes hard use (even neglect) in its stride. But whereas most engines display low oil pressure when they’re about to expire, the Metro’s doesn’t. Up until the point where it goes bang, it can appear healthy. Leaks are normal, mainly from the gearchange and timing chain oil seals.
Poor running can usually be traced to a soaked ignition system, thanks to the distributor being on the front of the engine. 
Valve guides and stem seals wear out, especially on 1275cc engines, leading to clouds of blue smoke once the power is applied after the over-run. Timing chain rattle is endemic to 1.0-litre cars – fitting a duplex chain assembly for around £100 will cure it.
If you’re looking at a Turbo, make sure the blower is in good nick. Large clouds of exhaust smoke mean the turbocharger has worn out, possibly because it hasn’t been allowed to idle before switching off after a run. Things are worse if the wrong oil is used – all Metros use 15/40, which should be changed every 3-5000 miles.

TRANSMISSION

Just two different transmissions were fitted to the Metro: a 4-speed manual or a 4-speed auto, the latter offered only with the 1275cc engine. The manual transmission whined loudly in first even when new, but the ‘box is tough, with serious abuse or a lack of maintenance needed for problems to crop up.
The automatic transmissions are less durable and rebuilds are costly at £900. Fitting a used unit is the usual solution – they’re £150. If the car is jerky when moving off, the bands need adjusting. This should be done periodically to maintain smooth progress.

RUNNING GEAR

The rack-and-pinion steering is durable, as is the suspension. Some owners find the Hydragas suspension daunting, but it’s nothing to be afraid of. Top up the system every three years or so and problems will be kept to a minimum.
Problems can occur, such as corrosion of the pipe joints, leading to fluid leaks, so check the condition of each union. Ensure the ride height is even left and right; the system is connected side-to-side at the rear, but not at the front. Topping up the system is easy, with new pumps around £300 and used ones £100-200.
A iety of wheels were fitted to the Metro and they’re all interchangeable, with many owners fitting alloys as they look nicer. Late pre-facelift cars (summer 1984 on) had imperial pressed-steel wheels, but later cars had metric items, with tyres costly and difficult to source. As a result, the earlier wheels are still popular.
The split braking system features four-pot callipers, but parts are available and cheap. The Turbo and GTA got a ventilated disc system which can be retro-fitted if the correct cooling slots are fitted to the front valance.

TRIM

There’s little brightwork to worry about, aside from chrome surrounds for the grille and windscreen on the Vanden Plas. All cars carried badges or decals. Those for the MGs are available from the MGM Club.
Original interior trim has dried up and there’s no repro stuff being made, but there are plenty of second-hand parts available, especially for MG rather than Austin models. Earlier Metros had trim that has usually disintegrated, so fitting later seats is the solution; even K-Series Metro parts will fit with some tweakery. Vanden Plas cars had wooden door cappings which tend to delaminate, which can be costly to repair.
All Metros feature a basic electrical system. Aside from poor earths and bodged looms, there aren’t any pitfalls. If any bits are needed, used items are plentiful.

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VERDICT

The Metro was already a fine small car, and the extra power of the MG iants certainly ratcheted up the entertainment factor. They still suffered from the issues that afflicted the 'cooking' models, corrosion being the biggest problem, but they are DIY-friendly. Finding a solid example is the key, but this pocket-rocket will certainly put a smile on your face.

MG SA REVIEW

Launched at the 1935 Motor Show, the MG SA represented a new departure for MG. The first all-new model to be introduced since the companys acquisition by Morris Motors, it was considerably larger than any previous MG and caused a certain amount of consternation amongst enthusiasts who feared an abandonment of virtues embodied by the marques nimble sports cars. They need not have worried, for although based on the Wolseley Super Six and aimed at the luxury car market, the SA received sufficient input from MG founder and designer Cecil Kimber to transform it into a car worthy of the famous octagon badge. Originally of 2,026cc, the overhead-valve Wolseley six had been enlarged to 2,288cc by the time SA production commenced and was further stretched to 2,322cc in 1937. With 75bhp propelling a car weighing around a ton-and-a-half, acceleration was necessarily leisurely nevertheless, the SA could cruise comfortably at 60-70mph and had a genuine top speed approaching 85mph. By the time production ceased in 1939, 2,738 SAs of all types had left the factory.

CADILLAC SERIES 62 ELDORADO BIARRITZ REVIEW

Good enough for Elvis 'The King' Presley, good enough for us mere mortals... 

In the twenty years after the War Cadillac reached the height of prestige, and while the White House might have chosen this marque over Lincoln, successful businessmen and Hollywood stars favoured Cadillac - the ownership of a convertible model particularly showing that they had really made it.

No single automotive design singularly characterizes the industry's late 1950s flamboyance than the 1959 Cadillac Eldorado, which incorporated totally new styling, large tail fins, twin rocket-ship tail lamps, and new jewel-like grille patterns. General Motors' chief stylist Harley Earl had introduced distinctive fins on the 1948 Cadillacs - reaching their zenith in 1959.

Engine stroke was increased to 3 7/8" resulting in the V8 overhead valve engine capacity increase to 390 cubic inches, while standard features included automatic transmission, power brakes, power steering, windshield washers, two-speed wipers, wheel discs, outside rear view mirror, and 'vanity mirror and oil filter'! Built on the 130" or 10' 6" chassis, the car occupied 18ft 9" of styling extravagance, accommodating six passengers on wide bench seats, the coachwork sparkling with chrome.

MG TA MIDGET REVIEW

When the  MG TAtook over from the short-lived P-type in 1936, buyers could have been forgiven for failing to notice. It didn’t look much different to the PB and the OHC engine had been binned in favour of a Morris 10 OHV engine.

The first of the famous T-series MGs, the TA/TB is as British as they come. With looks as vintage as these, it comes as no surprise that the driving experience follows suit. But that's not a bad thing. Performance is modest; TA engines are generally rated 45-50bhp, but high speeds don't really suit the little car's demeanour. Things get frantic as you approach 60mph.

It also has a tendency to wander in a straight line so it's far better to slow down and let it fnid its own path, guiding the large steering wheel with a light touch. That steering can fell heavy and somewhat vague - some owners fit a steering box from a more modern car to provide a bit more confidence. Thankfully, the brakes prove more than up to the task, despite comprising fairly small drums all round.

If you want more performance, the TB's additional few horsepower is useful, though you'd still never describe it as quick - 0-60mph takes 23 seconds. The later unit does respond better to tuning, though, and buying a TB brings synchromesh for the top three gears, which improves everyday driveability if you've yet to fully master the art of double declutching. You'll also get a conventional clutch rather than the slightly tricky to master cork item in the TA.

Slide into the cabin and you'll find things are snug but comfortable, with bags of charm to boot. From the sprung steering wheel to the small but well-stocked dashboard, it truly evokes the flavour of motoring from yesteryear and its small dimensions means you'll find every switch and control within easy reach. Things are cosy, to say the least, with two adults on board but it's still a very pleasant place to while away country lane miles. 

By the time the MG TC came along in 1945, the engine had been replaced by the venerable XPAG engine, and both the brakes and transmission had been improved markedly. However, it still looked pretty much the same – a wise classic buy, then?
Early TCs were built just after WWII so the driving experience is literally from another era. They might not appear quick on paper, but 55bhp in a car that weighs less than 850kg will always feel lively. And the legendary DNA that gives any purpose-built MG sportscar its get-up-and-go is obvious here – the only real drawback, in fact, is affording a good one in the first place…

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VITAL STATISTICS

Engine 1250cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power 54bhp@5200rpm

Torque 64lb ft@2600rpm

Top speed 87mph

0-60mph 22.7sec

Economy 29mpg

Gearbox 4-speed manual

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WHAT TO LOOK FOR

1. The condition of the ash frame is crucial so it needs checking carefully for rot. Most areas are hidden but problems around the running boards or dashboard likely mean you're too late and will have to budget for complete renewal. You should also check that the doors don't sag when opened. Also, pull gently on the rear wings - movement here probably means the fixings are coming away from the frame.

2. Equally vital is checking the chassis for corrosion. Pay particular attention to the fit of the body panels as serious misalignment could indicate a chassis that is terminally twisted. The bonnet is a good starting point, as the centre hinge should align with the joint in the scuttle. Chassis flex is an issue - it's worth getting the car onto a ramp as there is a weak spot in the gearbox area where a strengthening box section can crack. New ones aren't available so you're looking at extensive repair work or having a new one made up.

3. Needless to say the steel body panels are susceptible to corrosion although replacements can be found.Check the wings, door bottoms, the panel joints, and around the rear bulkhead. The fuel tank is another rot spot as the felt pads upon which it rests trap moisture. Bear in mind too that the hand-built nature means every car will be slightly different, so an inspection by a marque expert (find them through the owner's club) is invaluable. The TB body differed little, although the bonnet's cooling louvres are different, for example.

4. The TA's 'MPJG' unit is usually long-lasting, but can succumb to cracks in the cylinder block and head, so check that oil and water aren't mixing - you'll see a mayonnaise-like substance when you open the radiator cap. Expect at least 60psi of oil pressure when warm, and bear in mind that the use of white metal bearings makes re-builds costlier. The 'XPAG' unit fitted to TBs had a stronger block and crank and a modified head, and is more tunable. Known issues include weak lubrication to the cam followers, which accelerates wear, and the potential for breakage of valaves or crankshaft, which is clearly a major fix. Shell bearings make re-builds easier and cheaper, and like the TA, if it's lasted this long, chances are it'll be fine. The position of the air cleaner is a quick way to tell them apart - it's horizontal at the rear of the inlet on the TA, transverse and resting on the rocker cover on the TB.

5. Gearboxes are strong, although the TB's extra synchromesh is handy. Likewise the rear axle, which rarely gives trouble. A TA clutch is a cork item that runs in an oil bath, while the TB gets a conventional item. Neither gives trouble unless abused. Gearbox internals, especially for the TA, are getting a bit scarce, so be wary of a unit that sounds or feels in need of a re-build - if it pops out of gear, leaks transmission oil or emits a loud whine, beware. Some owners choose to fit a Ford Sierra Type 9 five-speed gearbox for quieter cruising.

6. Leaf springs and lever arm dampers feature all round, and regular greasing of the phosphor-bronze bushes is vital. Check for evidence of worn front axle trunnions and broken mounting bolts, but it's at the rear where particular care is needed. Badly worn mountings could allow the spring to strike the fuel tank with dangerous consequences for the handling and - potentially - the retention of petrol. The Bishop steering box is known to wear quickly and is often over-adjusted to cure excessive play - some owners fit a VW unit instead. The steel brake drums can warp too. It's essential to get the suspension and steering set-up correctly, so seek specialist advice if you're unsure. The owners' club are the best place to start to find a reputable expert.

7. The interior is pleasingly simple, and professional re-trimming will sort any issues - at a cost, of course. Don't forget to check the condition of the hood and sidescreens, though, and their mounting points, plus the chrome trim.  

Bodywork

In truth, there doesn’t appear to be much in the way of TC bodywork to assess – the doors are cut away, leaving only the twopiece bonnet, wings and rear body tub to worry about. The exposed and delicate wings in particular are vulnerable to dents and scuffs, however, although these cars’ relative rarity means that most enthusiast-owned cars have been restored extensively by now. Ignore any rust at your peril.
That said, problems still arise – the doors are notoriously prone to maladjustment and will foul the surrounding bodywork if not fitted correctly. Thankfully, packing (or, if you’re feeling particularly brave, physically bending) the two hinges should get a wonky door properly aligned again.
It’s a complex car, too – there are actually 22 separate body components, most of which were fitted and aligned purely by hand and eye at the factory, so replacing rotten examples isn’t easy.
Such is the inherent strength of the body, however, that it can – just – hold together a car whose wooden frame is essentially shot, so closer inspection is a must on any car. Being an MG, parts back-up is exceptional, so replacement wood is available, but accuracy is essential – if the original timber has rotted away, then using cheap patterns to replace them is a false economy. Replacing an entire frame is neither cheap nor straightforward. 

Engine

The 1250cc XPAG engine the TC inherited from its TB predecessor is a little honey that could reach almost 80mph in period. Rough running or reluctance to start could be something as simple as SU carbs in need of refurbishment or adjustment, but cars requiring restoration can suffer from all manner of maladies, ranging from seized valve stems (owing to poorly gapped valve guides; a consequence of which in extreme circumstances can be irretrievably damaged rocker arms) to worn camshaft lobes.
Seemingly low (20psi) oil pressure gauge readings while a car is idling shouldn’t be any cause for alarm as long as it rises to around 50psi at speed. Using a higher grade of oil is known to improve idling oil pressure slightly to around 25psi, but don’t discount the possibility of the gauge itself being faulty.
Engines are tougher than you might think – common strip-down and re-build procedures involve a re-bore, new pistons, new camshaft and crank, together with a fresh oil and water pump. This might sound like a lot to swallow in one go, but should be enough to restore health to a tired, but fundamentally sound engine.

Running gear

A noisy gearbox isn’t an uncommon TC trait, and if waggling the gear lever mutes the noise then chances are the fault lies with a failing (or failed) bearing within the remote linkage. The assembly which houses the bearing can, however, be re-bored and re-sleeved with plastic to eliminate the problem. Persistent jumping out of gear, however, is more serious and likely to warrant a gearbox re-build or, in a sworst case scenario, complete replacement. It’s worth remembering, incidentally, that a Riley RM gearbox is all but identical to the MG TC’s, and will fit with minimal modifications, so long as you have the TC bellhousing. The ratios are different, however, meaning you’ll also have to invest in a higher ratio differential if you go down this route.

Interior

Leaky hoods, deteriorated wet weather gear and so on can wreak havoc on a TC’s snug interior, but thankfully there is extremely good parts back-up for these cars, just about all the associated fixings and fittings you’ll ever need are readily available. 

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OUR VERDICT

The vintage looks and octagon are an appealing combination - it's easy to see why the TA and TB are so sought-after. While great fun, their road manners reflect their pre-WWII age, so you're best off trying one before you commit. If it does suit, though, you'll love the little MG.

MG TD MIDGET REVIEW

MG's famous Midget series of T models ran through TA, TB, TC, TD and TF before the entire series was replaced by the MGA. The 1950 release of the MG TD Midget caused quite a stir. Despite the car looking essentially the same as the TC it replaced, under the skin much was new. The car was five inches longer, and the body four inches wider than the immediate post-war TC which it replaced. Top speed was increased to 80mph from the 1,250cc overhead valve engine. It was the handling that saw the greatest improvements over the TC. The MG TD featured independent front suspension with coil springs, together with rack and pinion steering and 15" disc wheels for the first time. A TC drivetrain with modified hypoid geared rear axle and a completely new chassis developed in the Y-Type saloon and making use of box-section side rails and crossmembers and it was of all-welded construction; this provided a much sturdier and stiffer frame than the old Midget chassis Styling changes to the MG TD, which was created largely at the Abingdon factory rather than Morris's Cowley design office, over the MG TC include new bumpers front and back and new 15 inch pressed-steel wheels in place of the old 19 inch wire-wheels (although these looked slightly odd on such an old fashioned car and didn't quite manage to fill the arches). Using the traditional steel on a wood-frame construction, the TD's body retained some of the classic T-series lines while updating them ever so slightly. This was a huge leap forward for the company, who were now able to offer the option of left as well as right hand drive, and helped make the new MG TD of 1949 by far the most popular of the Midgets. 1950 saw MG release the MG TD Mk II. With a more highly tuned version of the XPAG engine producing 57bhp at 5500rpm, bigger carburetors and further improvements to the suspension, the MK II furthered the MG TD's sales success. The MG TD was dropped to make way for the MG TF and MG TF 1500, with the last MG TD being sold by an MG dealer in 1953.

CADILLAC MODEL A 6 1/2 HP REVIEW

Founded by Henry Leland and Robert Faulconer, the Cadillac Automobile Company, of Detroit completed its first car in October 1902 and the firms superior manufacturing technology - precision gear cutting was Leland and Faulconers first speciality - soon established it as the foremost builder of quality cars in the USA.

In 1901, Olds Motor Works had contracted for the supply of Leland-built engines and, when unforeseen circumstances frustrated the plan, Leland and Faulconer formed their own company using funds supplied by two of Henry Fords ex-backers, taking its name from the great French explorer who had founded Detriot in 1701.

An exemplary performer by the standards of the day, the Cadillacs 98cu in (1.6-litre) single-cylinder engine - known as Little Hercules - was mounted horizontally on the left beneath the front seat and drove via a conventional two-speeds-plus-reverse planetary transmission and centre chain drive to the rear axle. The Model A was available with either two- or four-seat coachwork and has a maximum speed of around 30-35mph.

CORD 812 SUPERCHARGED 4.7-LITRE REVIEW

Erret Cord had a controlling interest in Auburn, Duesenburg and Lycoming during the 1920s. Launched in 1935 by the Auburn Automobile Company, the Cord car incorporated unheard of advances in styling and engineering at that time, including retracting headlamps and, a first for the American market, front-wheel drive combined with independent suspension.

 The 812 model was introduced in the 1936 model year and featured a supercharged 4.7-litre V8 Lycoming engine, electronically controlled Bendix transmission with overdrive fourth speed, the supercharged version sporting distinctive flexible exhausts from both bonnet sides and across into the front wings.

The Schwitzer-Cummins supercharger fitted to the 812 offered nearly 200bhp, 'Mormon Meteor' Ab Jenkins achieving 121mph in one. The most coveted of the Cord models, in 1949 the Cord was selected by the Museum of Modern Art in New York as one of the ten finest all-time examples of general industrial design, the 1959 Lotus Elite being the only other car to be exhibited. Costing more than twice as much as a Cadillac and four times that of a Ford V8, the Cord went out of production in 1937, succumbing to the American depression.

Hailed by the The Autocar's automotive artist, F. Gordon Crosby as ''a fine piece of bold and original design work'', the 'coffin-nosed Cord' pioneered the use of retractable headlamps, which in this case were modified landing lights from Stinson aircraft, another company in the complex business empire controlled by the eponymous Errett Lobban Cord.

MG TF REVIEW

The original MG TF simply oozes traditional British style and charm.

TFs have a vintage feel to match their sporting looks. That said, they do feel more civilised than their earlier T-series siblings, as well as benefiting from a slightly wider cockpit. They have better road manners, too – the ride isn’t as harsh and the rack-and-pinion steering is devoid of any play.

When the twisty bits arrive, the reworked front suspension comes into its own, with the steering remaining light and the nose responding immediately. It can be accelerated in a long, constant radius corner to the point where feeding in more power will simply push the nose further into the curve. The car feels sporty, urging you to be smooth and precise in order to extract the best from the rudimentary chassis. Even the brakes discourage you from scrubbing off speed. 
    Driving cautiously in an MG is sacrilege – slow corners should be taken in second gear, fast uphill bends should be rounded in third, with high speed curves allowing you to exploit the accurate steering. Only those who appreciate the sheer fun of driving a car will ever get to like the MG. 

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VITAL STATISTICS

MG TF1500

Engine                                    1466cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  65bhp@5500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 76lb ft@3000rpm

Top speed                                85mph

0-60mph                                  16sec

Consumption                            28mpg 

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WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Looking at the scuttle, severe corrosion can set in around the screen brackets. Also check at the bottom of the bulkhead, as the wing beading traps moisture. Corrosion around the edge of each wing is normal, while the seams between panels can also harbour rust. TAs, TBs and TCs have a partially-boxed and open channel chassis, while TDs and TFs have fully-boxed types that are made of thinner metal and actually have more rust traps. These are more likely to suffer from perforation on the undersides than the early models, so be sure to check them throroughly.

All T-series cars relied on wooden framing, although the TF utilised more metal than the earlier models for added rigidity. It’s the wood that causes the greatest problems, with most of it being hidden from view. There’s an exposed crossmember beneath the dash – if this is rotten, then chances are the rest of the woodwork is, too. TF’s are fitted with plywood floorboards – new ones are easy to make, but rusting fixing screws can make the old ones difficult to remove. Body mounting outriggers can rot away merrily, so they also need to be checked carefully. 

ENGINE

Engines are seldom oil-tight, so expect seepage from the tappet cover and rocker box. Leaks from the front and rear of the crankshaft are also common, and a heavy leak from the latter will require removal of the engine to fully eradicate the problem. Engines should last between 60,000-80,000 miles, provided that good quality 20/50 lubricant has been used. 

The 1250cc unit is a simple one, with shell bearings. However the crankshaft can break across the front web, while the valves can drop into the cylinders when their heads break off. Cam followers also wear quickly. Take the car for a test drive to fully warm it up – with the engine good and hot, oil pressure should be around 50lb/sq in at 40mph. Expect to hear valve gear chatter unless the engine has been freshly rebuilt. If noise is excessive, then suspect a worn rocker shaft and bushes, especially if oil pressure at tickover is down to 10lb/sq in or less. A heavier intermittent knock at half engine speed when the motor is revved suggests worn cam followers and camshaft.

RUNNING GEAR

TF gearboxes are notoriously weak, with the gears and layshaft oftenproving a problem. If a gearbox jumps out of gear or you hear significant whining, then a rebuild is the only cure, complete with a four-figure bill (cue more whining!).

There should be no play in the TF’s rack-and-pinion steering. They are durable, but rattles may be due to slackness in the adjustable inner balljoints on the tie-rods. Negative camber on the independent front suspension usually means that the swivel pins and links are badly worn. The phosphor bronze upper and lower trunnions are prone to wear – if they’ve been replaced by steel MGA items, then they’ll be even more worn. Regular lubrication with a mixture of oil and grease will help reduce the wear rate.

BRAKES

TFs have the same front brake cylinders as MO Morris Oxfords, Wolseley 4/44s and MG Y-type saloons. MGB suspension rubbers and bushes will also fit, while retro-fitting an MGB anti-roll bar will improve handling. 

INTERIOR

TFs should have leather upholstery and vinyl door trims. Assemble the hood and sidescreens, looking for damaged or missing fittings. It’s all available, but some original parts are scarce and costly, so be aware of this. Likewise, check all the instrumentation and switchgear is present and correct, as again some parts are very expensive.

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OUR VERDICT

It is unfortunate that because of the delay in announcing the MGA, the demise of the TF virtually passed unnoticed. The TF’s passing marked an end of an era at Abingdon – from 1929, when the first M-type Midgets and 18/80s were built in the converted leather-goods factory, up until 1955, every MG sports car followed the same formula. The new MGA was an entirely different machine. 

Whether you go for a TF1250 or TF1500, you will have a car with irresistible looks and handling that make it fun to drive. Performance may not be earth-shattering, but the grin on your face will be significant regardless – if ever a car was built for simple pleasures then this
is it. The TF represents a carefree bygone age of motoring. Who’d have thought that of a car borne out of rationalisation and considered to be compromised from the outset?

By 1953, MG’s TD was facing serious challenges from the much more powerful Triumph TR2s and Austin-Healeys. Abingdon bosses knew something had to be done and the TF was the result. Boasting a semi-streamlined body, the new model retained the TD II’s engine and running gear, but swapped
in a higher ratio back axle.

Regarded as the prettiest of the T-types today, the TF actually received a mixed reception in period. It featured a steeply raked front grille, streamlined front wings and faired-in headlamps. The old-fashioned rear ‘slab tank’ and external spare wheel kept the traditional looks alive. Initially the car was launched with the faithful 1250cc XPAG engine that had made its debut in the TB Midget in 1939. Some enthusiasts were disappointed as they’d hoped for more power – the Triumph TR2 was capable of more than 100mph compared to the ‘flat out’ 80mph achievable in the TF. The XPAG engine was later bored out to 1466cc to improve performance. Total production reached 9600 between 1953-1955, of which about 3500 had the larger engine.

CHEVROLET CORVETTE REVIEW

The Chevrolet Corvette, 'America's Sports Car', has been produced by Chevrolet since 1953 during which time there have been 6 generations; the C1, C2, C3, C4, C5 and the C6. However, the original is still the one you want... 

In it's time the car has become an all-American icon, being driven by 'the faceman' in the A-Team, Prince releasing a song titled 'Little Red Corvette' and ious generation Corvette's featuring in many video games.

General Motors took this on board and began harbouring the image, even claiming the Chevrolet Corvette 'as American as apple pie and hot dogs' in a 90's ad campaign. Also key to the Corvette's success has been it's instantly recognisable, oft outlandish design.

From the four circular tail lights, to the Corvette's trademark 'Sting-Ray' body styling, down to the flip-up headlights, a Chevrolet Corvette is striking and unmistakable from any angle. As well as striking design the Corvette is known for it's sporting heritage, it's distinctive, ovalled, double flagged badging being a nod to the car's racing lineage.

Corvette's philosophy in creating a performance car differs from the approach taken by european manufacturers. Corvette's use powerful, large displacement engines to achieve speed, with emphasis on simplicity rather than technical complexity.

The result is a car that is powerful whilst remaining affordable and easy to maintain . This formula has received criticism from Europe for being unrefined and causing erratic on-limit handling, although it has no doubt aided the car's iconic muscle image. The first generation Corvette, the C1 (also known as the 'solid axle' corvette) began production in 1953 and ended in 1962. The engine impressed, achieving impressive reviews due to it's power output of 290hp and it being one of the first engines to produce 1hp per cubic inch. 1963 saw the release of the C2, which ran until 1967.

This year also saw the release of the Corvette Sting Ray coupe, sporting distinctive split rear windows (later discontinued due to safety issues) and bonnet vents. '65 saw Chevrolet add all round discs and the option of a 6.5L V8. Chevrolet later added side exhaust pipes and a 7L version. A particular variant of the C2 is now considered amongst the most collectable Corvettes ever produced.

The Grand Sport never reached most Corvette dealers as only 5 were built and was devastatingly quick, if not frightening. Delmo Johnson described the car as 'the only car I ever drove that would lift the front wheels off the ground in all four gears'. Production of the C3 ceased in 1982. Again the engine capacity was increased, with the entry level now being a 5.7L. Also the engine was moved to run on unleaded fuel due to emission controls.

Over the course of the 3's run, styling changes included a glass bubble rear window, an optional opening hatch at the rear on the collectors edition model, the end of the use of the 'Sting Ray' badge and the addition of urethane bumpers in place of the earlier chrome items. The 1983 release of the C4 saw the Chevrolet Corvette receive a complete overhaul in terms of design. The car was praised for it's sleek, aerodynamical design and dealers reported the car sold exceptionally well, with competitors Mazda dropping their RX-7 from the U.S market due to the Corvette's success.

The C4 Corvette had some interesting spin off derivatives, Twin Turbo Corvette, the Callaway Twin Turbo, the ZR-1 and most notably, the Grand Sport. The 330hp Grand Sport took it's name from the original Grand Sport model from 1963 and was only available in blue with a white centre stripe and two red hash marks above the front arches, along with black five-spoke alloy wheels. The Grand Sport was released in 1996 to celebrate the end of the C4's run.

The C5 was released to praise with critics proclaiming the car was improved in almost every way in comparison to the C4. The C5 also saw the Corvette's 50th birthday, Corvette staged an event to celebrate the occasion with some special previous cars on hand; including the Corvette SS and the Le-Mans class winning C5-R. General Motors also released the Chevrolet Corvette Z06 Commemorative Edition to celebrate the Corvette's 50th, the car featured a unique paint job and a carbon bonnet.

The most impressive C5 produced was undoubtedly the 7000 cc V8 C5-R racer which ran in the Le-Mans series. The C5's replacement, the C6, was released to even stronger reviews with the car being heralded as the most refined Corvette ever. Over it's run the Chevrolet Corvette has earned many accolades including; twice being voted 'Motor Trend' magazine's Car of the Year, appearing in 'Car and Driver' magazine's yearly Top 10 eleven times and being voted joint 'Best Engineered Car of the 20th Century' by the Society of Automotive Engineers amongst others. As of 2005 Corvette became a marque in its own right. This was cased by the rebranding of Daewoo to Chevrolet in Europe, forcing General Motors to drop the Chevrolet name and make the Corvette its own brand.

MGA REVIEW

If you’re not bowled over by the looks – and you almost certainly will be – then the driving experience should be enough to convince you of the MGA’s pedigree. Even in lower-powered 1500 form, the MGA is a perky performer, although the more powerful engines do add a welcome turn of speed. But that’s not really what this car is all about. What it does exceedingly well for a car of this vintage is ride and handle with real aplomb, which makes it a classic that you really can use every day, even for the longest of journeys. A combination of independent front suspension and rack and pinion steering provide accurate control, and even with a live rear axle ride comfort is more than acceptable. There isn’t much body roll either which makes tackling a twisty B-road an enjoyable experience, while the drum brakes are more than powerful enough to inspire confidence. The functional cabin is a touch on the snug side for taller drivers but it’s easy enough to get comfortable, and all the controls are well-placed.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine: 1588cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power: 80bhp@5500rpm

Torque: 87lb ft@3800rpm

Maximum speed: 101mph

0-60mph: 14.2sec

Fuel consumption: 24-26mpg

Transmission: RWD, 5-spd man+O/D

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

1 When you consider a professional restoration can exceed £30,000, the need to be sure of the car’s condition becomes clear. Unless you’re absolutely certain about the quality of previous restoration, finding another car – even one in need of work – may be the better option. Panel fit is a good guide to overall condition so check the shutlines around the doors and bonnet/wings – major variance here should ring alarm bells. Rot is a serious issue too, the inner and outer sills, A-pillars, wings, and door bottoms the main indicators of problems beneath. The boot lid, bonnet (both of which contain a plywood panel that can harbour rot), and door skins are aluminium panels over steel frames, so galvanic corrosion needs to be checked for as well.  

2 The separate chassis will need careful checking. Rot-spots include the front and rear cross-members, the battery boxes, the chassis rails along the sills and around the pillars, and the rear spring hangers. While underneath, take a good look at the wooden floors which are susceptible to rotting-out, paying particular attention to the points where they attach to the chassis. Crash damage may have distorted the chassis and the car will never be right if it’s been ignored – again those panel shutlines are the best indicator of hidden problems. Getting the car on a jig is the only way to be sure.

3 A variety of engines were fitted over the years, initially a 1500cc B-Series unit and from 1959 a more powerful 1600cc lump. Neither hold particular worries for buyers, although there are a few areas to check. Oil leaks are common, often caused by the oil-thrower at the rear of the crankshaft and a seal conversion is available to cure the problem. However, anything more than a few small drips will require a proper re-build. Worn piston rings or bores will cause excessive blue smoke from the exhaust, and it’s worth checking for any signs of head gasket failure as water leaks and cracked cylinder heads are common issues. Steady water temperature and around 50psi of oil pressure when warm are good signs on a test drive. Engine mods (or indeed complete engine swaps) such as bigger carburettors and cylinder head conversions are popular with owners.

4 More troublesome is the Twin Cam engine, in production for just a couple of years. Not only did it have a reputation for drinking oil – poor piston-ring design was to blame – but changes in fuel mixture strength led to many a melted piston. Most will have been sorted by now, but they are tricky and expensive to re-build correctly, so we’d advise a specialist inspection if you fancy one of these.

5 The four-speed manual gearbox can prove troublesome. In particular,  disintegrating second gear synchromesh and worn layshaft bearings are the main issues (a chattering noise in first or reverse gears signifies the latter.) Many will have been rebuilt or replaced, so check the history for previous work. Some cars have been converted to a five-speed set-up using a Ford Sierra gearbox – purists may frown but it’s not a problem as long as the job was done properly. Listen-out for a whining differential and check that worn bearings haven’t allowed oil to leak from the axle casing onto the brakes.

6 The drum brakes on early models are effective with proper maintenance, but a conversion to the later front disc arrangement is a popular – if largely unnecessary – mod. The kingpins/trunnions need regular greasing to prevent wear and seizure, so beware of stiff steering, while leaking lever arm dampers and tired rear leaf springs are other issues to watch for. Original buyers had a choice of steel disc or wire wheels (twin cam models used Dunlop centre-lock items), and these are often swapped depending on preference. Wires look good but ensure spokes and splines are in good condition as professional re-builds aren’t cheap.

7 The good news is that just about all interior trim parts are available, so a tatty cabin isn’t a deal breaker, but costs will soon mount if a complete re-trim is required. Poor restoration may be more trouble than it’s worth, so an original car in need
of work may be a better bet. Plenty of cars end
up with parts from other MG models in a bid to keep restoration costs down, which will adversely affect values.

OUR VERDICT
While the MGA might appear simple in design there are enough pitfalls to make a rash purchase unwise. That shouldn’t put you off this fine British classic – it just means that you need to take a little care and preferably engage the services of a reputable specialist to ensure you don’t land yourself with someone else’s bodged restoration. Get it wrong and a world of financial pain awaits. Be patient and you’ll have one of the finest classic sports cars out there.

MGC ROADSTER REVIEW

The first sound heard upon starting the MGC is a soft burble from the exhaust system, similar to the MGB’s pleasant note. Increase the revs, however, and the exhaust note thickens to become distinctly more ‘six-ish’, though mellow. Oddly enough, the engine seems to lack torque at low speeds, and subjectively lacks the punch of the old Healey 3000. This fact can be explained away by the fact that the ‘C has smaller carburettors and taller gearing. It’s a lazy-feeling engine, strangely reluctant to rev – much of this is down to the heavy flywheel – but it has a lot of mid-range torque, so perhaps long-distance cruising suits it best. 

You sit low in the cockpit and the steering wheel seems positively huge, often brushing the driver’s thighs. The ride quality of the ‘C is similar to the original ‘B – choppy and abrupt over poorly-surfaced roads, but otherwise fairly soft in normal conditions. What it lacks in refinement, however, is made up for with a liberal dose of performance of the kind the four-pot B simply can’t deliver.

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VITAL STATISTICS

1967 MGC

Engine                                    2912cc/6-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  145bhp@5250rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 120lb ft@3400rpm

Top speed                                120mph

0-60mph                                  10sec

Consumption                            19mpg 

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WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Although the MGB and MGC bodyshells look similar – both roadster and GT versions – the underside from the front seats forward and the inner front wings bear no relationship to each other. This is important when assessing a prospective purchase, especially if structural repairs are required, as replacement panels are largely unobtainable. Scrutinise all panel edges, especially doors, footwells, bootlid, boot floor and corners, battery boxes and wheelarches. Notable rust spots are around the front headlamps and sidelight clusters. Bubbling here is a fair indication that either work will be required, or shoddy repairs are disguising trouble beneath.

Blistering under the paint around the fillet strips fitted to the point where the front wings meet with the scuttle panel and also to the top edge of the rear wings usually indicate future problems. In the case of the front wings, major remedial work will almost certainly be needed underneath. The turret box sections to the top of the front wings are also a notorious area for corrosion, as road dirt thrown up by the front wheels builds up. If left unattended, rot here can stretch further back to the A-posts.

The majority of MGC bonnets were made from aluminium, making them prone to dents from stones. Replacements are expensive, so many have been swapped for steel versions. The transverse stainless steel bonnet strip sometimes causes galvanic corrosion with the aluminium bonnet where the retaining bolts are situated. If caught early this won’t result in serious damage, but is worth considering as a haggling point. 

Pay special attention to the underfloor triangular box section through which the torsion bars pass. Most important, however, are the sills. The strength of the monocoque body is dependent on the integrity of the box sections running between the front and rear wheelarches. The sill section compromises the outer sill, inner sill, a vertical closing panel and the ‘castle rail’. The last of these is a horizontal panel running underneath the length of the sill. Rust in any of these vital areas is usually only apparent when bubbles start to appear on the outer sill. Unfortunately, by this point, irreparable damage has been done – once the inner sill has succumbed to corrosion, the only remedy is complete – not to mention expensive – sill replacement.

ENGINE

The MGC’s engine and gearbox rarely give cause for concern, largely due to the laid-back attitude of the strong three-litre powerplant. Regular servicing is advisable, but a well-maintained C engine will cover 150,000 miles without complaint. Most cars available today will have had a rebuild anyway, often as part of a full mechanical and bodyshell rebuild. Non-overdrive MGCs used identical internal ratios to the MGB MkII, but all others used a unique set of internal ratios, so it pays to find out if the correct unit is fitted. The long-lasting Borg Warner Type 35 automatic transmission was also offered in the MGC and was surprisingly popular, being fitted to around 15 per cent of the production run.

ELECTRICS

The top-model 300SE and 300SEL had air suspension, which was high-tech stuff for the early 1960s. The ride it gives is quite remarkable, but problems can be very expensive indeed to fix, and parts are not plentiful. Buy an air-sprung Fintail with your eyes wide open, and have the phone numbers of a specialist and your bank manager close at hand.

BRAKES

Either five-stud pressed steel wheels with chrome disc trims or painted 15-inchdiameter centre-lock wire wheels were fitted from the factory. With the latter, make sure all the spokes are in good shape and that the splines aren’t worn. You can do this by jacking up the rear of the car, then trying to turn the wheel backwards and forwards while somebody else presses the brake pedal

INTERIOR

The footwell mats, inner sill and driver’s footrest coverings were originally made from rubber, although many of these have perished over the years, resulting in replacement with carpet when replacements proved difficult to source. Most trim is still available, but if you need to refresh a tired interior you will find that the costs will soon start to mount, so keep this bargaining point in mind when viewing. 

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OUR VERDICT

The MGC isn’t really nimble enough to be classed as a true sports car., nor is it quite as well balanced as the ’B . The cast iron six–cylinder engine is heavy; engineers could not mount it far enough back in the engine bay to spread its weight over the entire chassis. Consequently, the MGC is somewhat nose–heavy. but it scores as a comfortable long-distance cruiser. The ‘C offers the classic MGB looks, but with added refinement, making it well suited to today’s classic market. Modern 185/70 radial tyres reduce understeer and minor changes will improve the handling even more. The six-cylinder engine – similar to the Healey 3000 but actually better – is shared only with the Austin 3-litre, and responds well to simple tweaks. But as a tourer with an easy turn of speed and relaxed overdrive cruising, a well-sorted MGC is already a decent contender.

A six-cylinder MG sports car had been suggested by Syd Enever’s team at Abingdon in the late 1950s, before the original MGB design was signed off. However, the venerable Austin-Healey 3000 was top of the BMC sports car ladder, so it was only when that model was phased out that the prospect of a six-cylinder MGB came to fruition. 

The MGC required extensive changes to the front end of the bodyshell, plus all-new front suspension. The engine was a mix of features from the earlier C-series and 2.4-litre Blue Streak motor fitted to the Australian Austin Freeway and Wolseley 24/80. Heavier than the 1798cc MGB engine, it altered the vehicle’s handling, meaning it received a mixed response in the automotive press. The C was cancelled in 1969 after two years of production. 

Today, the model is highly collectible and the poor handling has been improved by better tyres and modification of the suspension settings. Tuning of the under-developed straight-six is common, and tweaking to the head, exhaust and cam release as much as 30 per cent more power and torque.

CHEVROLET CORVETTE C3 REVIEW

The third generation Corvette lasted for 14 years and became an American icon. Glassfibre means no body rust either.

Although the C3 Corvette was born in the 1960s and passed away in the 1980s, these cars just seem to encapsulate 1970s American automobile extremes. They were loud, brash, huge and aggressively styled but also suffered from the same safety and emissions emasculations that bedeviled all US cars of the era, with V8 power peaking at (a reported) 560bhp in 1969 but dropping as low as 165bhp during the mid-1970s.

The design dated back to 1965 and the Mako Shark II concept car. However, thanks to the continuation of glassfibre for the main body – which had been in use since the first Corvette of 1953 – much of the chassis, running gear and engines could be carried over from the previous Corvette generation. As before, convertibles and coupes were available, but the ‘plastictops’ had removeable roof panels and rear window. That sports car essential, pop-up headlamps, were also fitted.

The C3 gradually moved away from pure sports car towards being a GT – chrome bumpers disappeared for 1974 and convertibles vanished the following year. Production ended in 1982. 

VITAL STATISTICS

ENGINE                      5737cc/V8/OHV

POWER                       250bhp@5200rpm

TORQUE                     285lb ft@4000rpm

MAXIMUM SPEED         124mph

0-60MPH                    7.4sec

Fuel consumption         13-19mpg

TRANSMISSION           RWD, 4-spd manual or 3-spd auto

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Body beautiful

On the glassfibre shells, you should look for stress cracks and starring developing around door, bonnet (sorry, hood) and boot (we mean, of course trunk) apertures, plus the windscreen and wheelarches. Problems are more likely on convertibles, but also look for issues with the latches and weatherstrips on T-top coupes – they can leak. Uneven or differing paint or rough GRP patches points to repair, possibly after an accident. Wide or uneven gaps in the panels also point to previous crash damage. It’s important to get underneath and check the steel frame for rust, especially the rear suspension trailing arm mountings and the bottom of the windscreen pillars. The ‘rubber’ bumpers tend to disintegrate and are difficult to refit.

Engine issues

The V8 engines are rugged and unstressed in the Corvette. Obviously, keeping cool can be an issue, so keep an eye on the temperature and look for ‘mayonnaise’ under the oil filler cap and mixing of oil and water, denoting head gasket issues or even a warped cylinder head. Check the coolant isn’t rust-coloured and there’s no excessive exhaust smoke under acceleration. Oil drips are quite common but shouldn’t be big leaks, especially not from the bellhousing which suggests a rear engine seal past its best. Oil around the bottom radiator hose points to the front seal being worn.  

Transmission revamp?

Both manual and automatic gearboxes are usually quite trouble-free, but age will bring synchromesh issues on manuals as well as noise and difficult selection. Autos should change up and down smoothly.

What lies beneath?

The C3 continued with the independent rear suspension of the C2 and it’s quite complex, requiring somebody with knowledge to set it up properly. Clunks from underneath point to the rear trailing arm front bushes having failed, while squeaky clatters suggest a driveshaft universal joint is protesting. All C3s have four-wheel disc brakes, which are prone to rust in the lines and calipers. Conscientious owners often fit stainless steel replacements.

The inside story

Check for damp carpets as soft-top/roof panel leaks are common. Upholstery is leather or vinyl – the former lasts longer but is costlier to repair, while the latter splits around seams. Try out all the electrics, as dodgy/corroded connections and bad earths (due to the high GRP content) can cause things to stop functioning. Don’t forget the vacuum operated pop-up headlights (and, on earlier cars the windscreen wiper covers) as the system – a complicated maze of hoses, valves and actuators – is prone to leaks.

OUR VERDICT

Corvettes come closer than other classic US machines to what we over on this side of the Big Pond regard as a proper sports car drive. They’ve actually got half-decent handling, thanks to that enormously robust chassis and lighter weight plastic body – they certainly behave better than a Mustang. Even at their most strangulated, there’s still enough muscle for entertaining performance and those that do have the power the V8 Gods intended are just blistering.

But, essentially, it’s the looks and status that most recommend the C3. They’re such a famous and distinctive shape, yet they’re not seen that often over here. So, you’ll never be short of attention. And, who knows, maybe some of the adoring public will have a whip-round to help finance the fuel bills.     

MG ZS180 REVIEW

Don’t miss out on this performance bargain - If you’re after a 175bhp 2.5 litre V6 super-saloon for less than £1000 look no further.

In what was a turbulent time for MG Rover, they managed to produce one of the most underrated cars of the era. Often critiqued for its old-man image, Rover needed to sell to a younger audience. It had to be sportier for the younger market, so the suspension was modified, as was the exterior, and MG got their very own V6 that the Rover 45 (which the ZS is based on) didn’t. What came out of it was a massive leap forward, and one that’s extremely cheap now.

VITAL STATISTICS

ENGINE                      2497cc/6-cyl/DOHC

POWER                       175bhp@6500rpm

TORQUE                     170lb ft@2750pm

MAXIMUM SPEED         139mph

0-60MPH                    7.3sec

ECONOMY                  30-35mpg

TRANSMISSION         FWD, five-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Cambelt changes can cost upwards of £500, so check to see if it’s been changed. It should be changed every 90,000 miles. Definitely worth picking up a higher mileage car with the belt changed, especially as there are examples out there that have survived 200,000 miles. A belt change should be accompanied by a water pump change, preferably with an after market steel impeller, and not a plastic one that came with the car originally.

The Security Control unit in Rovers and MGs built between 2003 and 2005 can misbehave – rendering the car undrivebale. This commonly involves minor faults like the horn not working to cause a problem with the security system, which can lead to the immobiliser kicking in. By now a car would have probably had the work done to it. If not, new parts and labour can cost anywhere between £350 - £700.

Generally there isn’t much to worry about with the brakes but it’s worthwhile they are checked, as they’re prone to warping. If the clutch is high on the test drive don’t be put off – assembly kits can be had for less than £90. Brakes should be sharp and punchy, if not new pads can be had for around £50. As parts are cheap, it could be worthwhile to use these as bargaining tools if you’re trying to bag yourself a bargain.

Corrosion within the clutch release bearing can lead to the mechanism becoming stiff. Tell tale signs can include clutch shudder, and it can make the plastic slave cylinder to fail. Can get pricey to fix as this involves removal of the gearbox. Worth checking to see if it’s been fixed before.

As this is a performance car, it will have been driven hard at one point in its life. Especially as it’s phenomenally cheap, check the tyres are in good condition, as these can be expensive to replace. While you’re looking at tyres closely inspect any panels that look like they’ve had a bodge repair done to them, numerous MG ZS180s will have seen the wrong side of a hedge.

The MG came with a spoilers, wings and big alloy wheels. These may have been subject to change over the years, so it’s worth looking at whether any modifications have been made, and how well they’ve been completed. Some cars may have been hit with the lowering stick – so check for stone chips as well as suspension related issued. Suspension bushes are made of polyurethane instead of rubber so should be hard wearing.

OUR VERDICT

The appeal of a fast and practical car remains strong for people wanting to move their friends and family in a rush. Just look at the prices of BMW M5s lately and it’s very apparent that practicality and speed results in high price.

This is not true with the MG ZS180.It may not be the last word in refinement – interiors are particularly lackluster, but they’re still incredibly good value and very undervalued.

They’re pretty much at the bottom of their price curve and are only going to get more expensive once they become rarer – so now’s the time to buy one.

CATERHAM SEVEN REVIEW

If maximum entertainment coupled to a minimalist approach floats your boat, the
Caterham is perfect. 

History

1957: Introduction of Lotus Seven at British International Motor Show.

1959: Caterham Cars established as one of the first Lotus centres in premises on Caterham Hill, Surrey, selling Sevens and Elites.

1965: Caterham Cars supplies Seven registered KAR 120C for the Prisoner TV series.

1967: Caterham Cars becomes the sole concessionaire for Seven.

1973: Caterham Cars takes over production rights for Seven from Lotus.

1987: Caterham Cars moves production operation to spacious new factory at Dartford.

1992: JPE - Jonathan Palmer Evolution launched at British International Motor Show. Breaks the 0-60 world record for a production car in 3.44 seconds. One-make race series in Japan (the only one-make series for imported cars in Japan). Seven wins outright 24 hour race in Ohio, USA.

1993: Caterham Cars wins Queen's Award for Export.

1995: New racing scholarship for novices launched The Academy.

2002: Superlight R400 - class win at Nurburgring 24 hour race.

2004: The R500 Evo is released, breaking the 0-100-0 record in 10.97 seconds.

2005: January saw a management buy-in led by new managing director, Ansar Ali, ex-Lotus General Manager. Flagship CSR model launched. Still a Seven but with 90 per cent of the parts re-engineered and re-designed.

2007: Ford Sigma engine replaces the K-Series after 15 years of 'service' with two new power plants including a 115bhp Euro IV compliant unit. Caterham launches its first in-house 'Caterham Motorsport' badged and tuned engine for the all-new Superlight R400.

VITAL STATISTICS

Caterham Seven K-Series

Engine           1396cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power            110bhp@6000rpm

Torque          96lb ft@5000rpm

Top speed    103mph

0-60mph        6.8secs

Economy      30mpg

Gearbox        5-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

The straightforward construction does make things easier compared to many classics, but chassis condition is crucial.  Powder-coated from new, close examination is still needed as rot sets in around joints and seams, and where the coating has been scraped away.  Late 1990s examples can suffer more, so be vigilant, and remove the bonnet and nosecone on any example to get a good look at the front end.  Pay particular attention to the rear of the chassis and where the aluminium panels are attached, and look for any signs of twisting or distortion.  Track day ‘offs’ aren’t uncommon and chassis replacement/refurbishment can exceed £5000.  SV models featured a longer and wider chassis for more room.

The minimal bodywork still needs checking as the aluminium panels can be damaged by excursions into circuit gravel traps, while galvanic corrosion can occur where they wrap around the chassis.  Check the floor panels for damage too, and watch for cracks and stonechips in GRP wings and wheel arches.  Lastly, check VIN and chassis numbers carefully as you may be buying a re-built race car, and ask whether the car was factory or home assembled - the chassis number will reveal how it was supplied.

Various engines have been fitted over the years, from Ford crossflow items to Vauxhall, Rover K-Series, and Ford Zetec/Duratec units.  Lack of space precludes much detail here, but the key thing is looking for evidence of regular maintenance and any signs that the power plant is tired or abused.  Track use aside, the light weight ensures that mechanicals aren’t too stressed, but the usual checks for oil leaks, low oil pressure, overheating, and smokiness are advisable.  Engine upgrades are common too, so make sure you know what’s been done and by whom, but for the most part you’ll find the early cars straightforward to service and maintain on a DIY basis.

Transmission-wise, a variety of units have been used and they just need checking for obstructive gear selection or nasty noises that signal an imminent re-build.  The live back axle - often an Escort or Marina item - could be swapped for an optional De Dion arrangement between 1985 and 1988 when the latter became standard.  A Ford Sierra gearbox and differential was a common fitment too, and make sure you check if there’s supposed to be a limited-slip diff and that it works.  Clutches can take a pounding as well so watch for slippage.

Road use should take little toll on the brakes and suspension but a thorough examination is sensible all the same.  Upgrades are common so it’s worth getting specialist advice on the spec, while refreshing tired systems can see the costs add up.  It’s likely to be bushes and joints that suffer most from enthusiastic pedaling although bent front wishbones can be an issue too.  Front lower balljoints and wheel bearings can be a weak point on earlier cars - later ones got a revised axle and hub set up - so raise the front if you can and give the wheels a waggle to check for play.  

The steering should be incredibly responsive and direct, so be wary if it feels slack or the car wanders.  It could just be wheel alignment that’s gone awry, but it could also indicate a chassis that’s out of true.  A race-style removable steering wheel is a popular fitment so make sure the locking mechanism works properly.

The cabin couldn’t be simpler but it’s worth casting a quick eye over it as it could be suffering from water damage or scuffed trim.  Check the instruments and electrics are okay though as damp and lack of use can lead to niggling problems.  And if full harnesses have been fitted, ensure these are going to suit you as they can be a pain if you don’t plan on track work.  And while the weather protection was minimally effective to say the least, check the hood and sidescreens for damage.

At the wheel

Fun.  That’s what the legendary Caterham Seven does best, and there are few cars at any price or producing any amount of power that can put a bigger smile on your face.  In fact, even the shortest of drives proves a thoroughly life-affirming experience and the good news is that all this entertainment won’t break the bank.  It’s over forty years since Caterham bought the rights to Seven manufacture from Lotus, and since then this tiny sports car has been the benchmark for back-to-basics performance motoring.  Its calling card has always been a combination of light weight - barely half a ton in most cases - and relatively modest power (though later incarnations promised truly bonkers power outputs), a combination that delivered performance that was both stunning and accessible. 

It’s certainly a squeeze getting into the cabin if you’re of a, ahem, chunkier build, but the efforts will be worth it as once ensconced you’re faced with the simplest of control layouts.  There’s nothing inside to distract from the purpose of driving, just the minimum of instruments, a stubby gear lever, and a steering wheel the size of a shirt button.  You can forego the fairly rudimentary weather protection as the most fun is to be had with the top down, and with the engine fired into life you’re in for a thrilling ride.  No matter what powerplant is fitted, performance is electrifying with the whole experience magnified by the tiny dimensions and the way you sit just millimetres from the road surface.  Snicking through the gears via the short-throw lever is a delight, and the immediacy of the controls will come as a revelation to those used to the anaesthetized feedback provided by most new cars. 

You only have to think about turning the steering wheel – just a flick of the wrist is all that’s required - and the corner is dispatched, and you’re all set to charge towards the next bend.  It might take commitment to get the best from it but you’ll never tire of the Caterham’s pin sharp reactions.  If you’ve not tried one, then you must.  Immediately.

OUR VERDICT

Whether you view a Caterham as the ultimate embodiment of the sports car or simply too hardcore is a matter of personal taste, but there really is nothing like it for sheer entertainment and driving purity.  It’s wise, therefore, to try before you buy but if you ‘get’ it, a Seven will prove incredibly satisfying to own and enjoy.

MGA TWIN-CAM REVIEW

Too specialised for mass-production in the 1950s, but modern tweaks make them work.

After years of languishing with largely pre-war designs, the very good-looking and well-performing MGA of 1955 gave MG a new optimism, as well as won new customers. Its success meant rapid development, with the original 1489cc engine being upgraded to 1588cc in 1959 and then 1622cc for 1961. A coupe complemented the original convertible in 1956 and there were numerous other nips and tucks to gradually improve the breed.

But not every change was for the better, however well-intentioned. The MGA Twin-Cam of 1958 was an innovative attempt to build an even more performance-orientated version capable of what the market was asking for: a 100mph MG. For this, the 1588cc B-series engine was reqorked with twin overhead camshafts and an alloy cylinder head. however, the engine proved temperamental, being prone to detonation and burning oil and in need of constant tuning.

The warranty claims were extensive and so, after two years and 2111 examples, the Twin Cam was discontinued in June 1960. Understanding owners have made it a more reliable proposition.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine: 1588cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power: 108bhp@6500rpm

Torque: 104lb ft@4500rpm

Maximum speed: 114mph

0-60mph: 13.3sec

Fuel consumption: 23-25mpg

Transmission: RWD, four-spd manual

WHAT TO LOOK OUT FOR

Bodywork

Especially vulnerable grot spots are the sills and A-posts, but wings also go, so check everywhere thoroughly. Door bottoms go frilly, as does the boot floor. The doors themselves are aluminium over steel, as are the bootlid and bonnet, but the combination of these two metals together can cause electrolytic corrosion. Both the bonnet and bootlid have a wooden stiffener, whic rots. Look for good panel gaps - any uneven or big apertures and/or rippling points to possible accident damage and possibly a twisted chassis.

Chassis

The chassis is quite tough, but if you do suspect an accident then get underneath to look for any kinks or ripples. Focus in the front and rear chassis legs for any issues, and check the integrity of the wooden floorboard supports.

Engine

Don't think that because the twin-cam engine started life as a good ol' B-series, it will be cheap and easy to fix. It won't as it requires expert and expensive knowledge. Be suspicious of any engine that is noisy up top or runs badly - burnt pistons can strike, although it's less likely on later low compression cars. Disconnecting the distributor vacuum advance genuinely makes the engine run better. Oil pressure should be 50psi at 3500rpm and oil consumption is around a pint every 200 miles. Watch for blue smoke from the exhaust and be wary of hit running. Check for possible head gasket issues such as water and oil mixing and mayonnaise under the oil filler cap.

Transmission

Gearboxes can also be troublesome, with second gear synchromesh likely to start disappearing. Chattering in first and reverse is also a sign of all not being well. Loose hub nuts can allow the differential to spin against the axle casing, which will damage both items.

Brakes and suspension

The Dunlop disc brakes can suffer from binding or scoring if the calipers have seized, something the rear ones are quite prone to . Worn or tight suspension trunnions are also quite common, along with leaking or worn-out lever arm dampers. Check the gaiters on the rack-and-pinion steering to make sure they haven't split, as this will water and mud in.

Interior

Most interior trim is available and replaceable. Look for pitting of any Mazak parts and damaged vinyl dash covering. The electrics are Lucas - so expect the unexpected sometimes - but again everything is available to rectify any issues.

OUR VERDICT

The Twin-Cam is the most desirable of all classic MGs, and prices reflect this; a Roadster version is worth more than twice the value of an MGC. The extra performance and the four-wheel disc brakes make it very usable and capable in modern traffic conditions, in a way few other 1950s cars can. It is thoroughly entertaining to drive. Then there are the looks - the flowing Sid Evener shape puts it not just among the most attractive of MGs, but also the most beautiful of all British cars. There's also the perverse satisfaction of owning something that once was so problematical. Because, as a modern owner, you get to experience the MGA's true potential, in a way denied to those who bought them originally. 

MGB GT REVIEW

Is the rubber-bumpered 'B the most rational classic car that money can buy?

The MGB GT in rubber-bumpered form is still your cheapest way into 'B ownership. Given how aghast aficionados were at its Federalised bumpers at the time of its launch, we can see how that's happened. But it's funny how the passage of time has really softened those controversial looks - a testament to the design department at Longbridge, which oversaw the installation of those bumpers on the 1975 cars.

In reality, the MGB's modifications were superbly executed, and despite being huge, the bumpers flow well with the existing car's styling. We're not kidding - look at a Seveties Fiat X1/9, BMW 2002 or Lancia Montecarlo to see how bad Federal bumpers can look.

The relative lack of wide appeal for these later models can work in your favour: prices are low compared with older chrome-bumpered cars and you get pretty much the same package. What's not to like?

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine: 1798cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power: 84bhp@550rpm

Torque: 105lb ft@2500rpm

Maximum speed: 105mph

0-60mph: 12.2sec

Fuel consumption: 22-26mpg

Transmission: RWD, four-spd manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Smoke on the water

The OHV 1798cc B-series engine is known and loved in the specialist fraternity. It's strong, easy to work on and simple to tune. Major problems are quickly diagnosed and often simple to fix - a little burning oil could well be a faulty crankcase breather rather than anything more serious. But don't discount worn valve guides - if so, you'll need a new cylinder head, or, if you're really unlucky, you might need a bottom end rebuild. Look out for oil leaks from the front and rear crankshaft seals - replacing the rear one is an engine-out job. This is rare, though, and the B-series can rack up six-figure mileages.

Driving me wild

The four-speed transmission is tough, long-lived and well up to the task of hauling the relatively lightweight MGB, but it whines in first and second gear ('They all do that, sir'). If you want overdrive, look for a car that's been retro-fitted and ensure it engages and disengages smoothly. Don't worry too much if the overdrive is not working properly - it may be a poor electrical connection or a low oil level.

Spring is around the corner

Ask if the front suspension has been re-greased every 3000 miles, because, if not, the kingpins can wear out rapidly. Satisfy yourself that the brakes are working correctly. Wear in the master cylinger or servo seal failure should be sorted very quickly, but they're easy jobs.

Rear leaf psrings can sag with age and bushes only have a finite life, so assess these carefully, along with the condition of the rear spring shackles. Lever-arm dampers can leak, but reconditioned items are available.

Does it have a beautiful body?

This is the area that sorts out a good MGB from a bad one, so be careful. Rust can hit just about anywhere, but new panels, repair sections and even entire bodyshells can be bought off-the-shelf from specialists and at reasonable prices. GTs suffer from water ingress and it rots out the floorpans rapidly. Sills are tough to fix effectively, so don't be dismissive of corrosion in this area, and be suspicious of cover trims.

Underneath, take a good look at the rear spring hangers and battery boxes. The box sections at the top of the front inner wings rot readily and it's a tough repair. Scuttle edges also corrode, affecting the base of the windscreen and turning a good car into a basket case.

Love it inside out

The interior is basic and solid, but take care that everything is working as it should and there's no annoying minor damage. Nylon seat trim is of indifferent quality, but easily replaced, and door trims tend to survive well, but watch out for rips. Complete new interiors are available off the shelf, although they don't tend to be cheap. Wet carpets could be down to a leaky heater or water getting in through poor seals.

OUR VERDICT

If you really need to be told why you want one, then you've been living on Mars since 1965. The MGB is Britain's most popular classic car with good reason: it's widely available; has great parts and specialist support; and as long as you're not too demanding an owner, they are really good fun to drive. And let's be honest, that B-series engine sounds good when rasping through the exhaust system.

The appeal of the later cars is not just their lower prices - although that's a big part of it - but you also have the added advantage of BL's infamously garish colour palette inside. Russet Brown and Harvest Brown are back in fashion, aren't they? 

MGF REVIEW

One of the last proper British sports cars just so happens to be the cheapest and the most readily available. We reckon the MGF is a cracking buy

Power comes courtesy of Rover’s K-Series engine, which, despite its reputation for chewing through head gaskets, is actually a very sweet unit. It’s best to avoid the 1.6-litre engine, as it’s a tad lethargic next to the 1.8-litre versions. The latter two came with either 118bhp or 145bhp in VVC (variable valve control) guise and, though neither are brutally fast, they’re certainly swift off the mark and very happy to rev. 

Like any twin cam engine, it’s no surprise that the MGF needs to be worked to get the best out of it, but it’s rewarding. The gear shift is short and sharp, but it can be a little notchy until the engine is up to operating temperature. 

Spot-on weight distribution makes for crisp responses and there’s plenty of grip in the dry. Like most mid-engined cars, the MGF has a sting its tail. Push it too hard in slippery conditions and it can bite back with sharp oversteer, which you have to be quick to catch. 

For the most part, it’s very easy to live with and makes a superb, everyday starter classic.

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VITAL STATISTICS

MGF

Engine                                    1796cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  118bhp@5500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 120lb ft at 3000rpm

Top speed                                123mph

0-60mph                                   8.9sec

Consumption                            38.3mpg

Gearbox                                    5-speed manual

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WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

A hard-top is a worthwhile addition and can add to the value of the car. It can conveniently hide a dodgy fabric hood, though – ask the seller to remove it so you can inspect underneath. The plastic rear window can crack and go opaque over time, but it can be brought back to life with a chemical treatment. At the same time check out the main body of the hood for damage. 

Pat the carpets in the footwells to check for water ingress. If you come across any damp then don’t automatically assume that there’s a hole in the hood, as the heater box seal can fail and cause water to leak into the passenger footwell. Check inside the boot for damp too, as early cars suffered from poor seals at the back.

The door glass often falls out of alignment. Window guide stops are renowned for failing, particularly on older cars, which can lead to poor sealing and often water ingress. Later cars were also fitted with wider door glass seals, which are much more effective at keeping water out. This has been retrofitted to some older cars and, while not essential, is worthwhile. 

Walk round to the back of the car and look at the brake lights when the engine is running. If they remain on of their own accord then the brake light switch needs adjusting or replacing. It’s not fatal and is easily fixed, but the switch itself is a pain to get to.  

ENGINE

It’s no secret that Rover K-Series engines are renowned for head gasket problems. If a car has been well maintained or if it has had the head replaced – properly – then there shouldn’t be any problems. Either way, the usual check for a creamy residue on the inside of the oil filler cap is still the best method. Keep an eye on the engine temperature during the test drive and leave it running for a couple of minutes after you park the car. The fans should cut in to keep the engine cool. 

Inspect the coolant reservoir and see if any oil has made its way in, which is a sign of problems with the head. Make sure that the fluid itself is in good condition, too. Clean, red OAT coolant signifies a caring owner and means that head gasket problems are less likely in the long run. Also check out the hoses, as these can rot and leak. 

ELECTRICS

Being a modern classic, the MGF has its fair share of electrical luxuries inside, so try them all to make sure they work. The SRS airbag light has been known to remain on permanently, and, though it’s usually just down to a loose wire under one of the seats, it could mean that the airbag and seat belt pre-tensionsers have packed up. 

RUNNING GEAR

Though the MGF is a low-slung sports car, the ride shouldn’t be overly hard – or soft. If it is, then there may be problems with the hydragas suspension system. The fluid pressure may have been released, which can significantly alter the ride and handling and not always for the better. Ideally you want a car that is sitting properly on its suspension. 

The tracking can be knocked out of alignment easily, so it’s not unusual to find cars running on wonky tyres. Have a good look for even tyre wear. MGFs should only use the specified tyres. Check handbook.

BRAKES

If the handbrake warning light stays on after you’ve released the lever then the cable has probably stuck, which is a common gripe. This isn’t a huge problem and is easy and cheap to fix. 

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OUR VERDICT

MGF prices have officially bottomed out, so there’s no excuse not to chuck a modest amount of cash at one and bag a really tidy example. There’s always the worry of a head gasket failure, but this usually happens in the first 20-30,000 miles of the engine’s lifetime. With that in mind, a 40,000-mile car with a watertight service history and either a replacement head or evidence of meticulous maintenance would be our choice. There’s no reason why you couldn’t pick up such a car for £2500 or even less.

The F is a fantastic starter classic for those not quite ready to take the plunge into proper old car ownership. The only real snag is that access to the mid-mounted engine is limited, which slightly hinders the potential for novice tinkering/maintenance, but the MGF at this price is just good value. 

A Mazda MX-5 might be the obvious choice as a modern classic drop-top, but the only hint of patriotism about it is that it closely resembles a Lotus Elan. When the MGF arrived in 1995, it kept the old-school formula of good weight distribution, a modest – but rev-happy – four-cylinder engine and a soft-top. 

It was every inch the proper British sports car, although the mid-mounted engine was a more modern twist, which proved handy for spreading the weight evenly.  

The F became immensely popular, and if individuality is your thing, then it’s not for you. However, if you fancy a sports car but don’t want the hassle of scouring the country for an immaculate example then the MG is right up your street. 

Excellent parts supply, a wealth of specialists and the fact that you can find one on most forecourts are all part of the F’s appeal. 

Set aside £3,000 and you can have your pick of the finest examples around, too, so it’s easily one of, if not the most affordable drop-top in existence.