MG MAGNETTE REVIEW

Great to drive, the ZA/ZB Magnette has lots going for it.

The original ZA Magnette was unveiled in 1953, with the updated ZB following in the summer of 1956. Designed by Gerald Palmer, the Magnette range was elegant and affordable, yet had independent front suspension, rack-and-pinion steering and a BMC B-series engine. Sales were strong, helping to establish MG as a key part of BMC’s badge-engineering portfolio. Time was called on the Magnette in January 1959 after 37,000 cars had been built, to be replaced by the ’Farina’ Magnette.

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VITAL STATISTICS

1953 MG Magnette ZA

Engine                                    1489cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  60bhp@4600rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 76lb ft@3000rpm

Top speed                                80mph

0-60mph                                  22sec

Consumption                            28 mpg

Gearbox                                    4-speed manual

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WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Magnettes weren’t very well rustproofed when new, so you need to check the monocoque carefully, particularly along the underside of the sills. There’s a seam where the inner and outer sills meet, and the whole length of the sill – from the front wheelarch to the rear – needs to be examined thoroughly. If the seam is corroded, then there’s a good chance that major rust will be lurking elsewhere. Another common rot spot is the box section that sits just behind the front wheels. This can fill with water and rust will quickly spread to the sills if the drain channels are blocked. Also inspect the toe boards and all box section members. Rear wings corrode at the back of the rear wheelarch, as do the rear spring hangers, while the boot floor and trailing edges of the bootlid often suffer too. 

Window ledges rust, causing water to be trapped in the doors, which leads to further corrosion from within. Front wings bolt on and can be a nightmare, as they rust along the top edges by the front bumper and around the headlamps. External trim can be difficult to obtain, particularly the ‘hockey stick’ chrome mouldings and bumpers, so make sure its all present and correct. 

ENGINE

The B-Series is tough and tolerant of neglect. Look for low oil pressure – anything less than 50psi on the move is bad news – smoking, undue tappet noise and rumbling crankshafts under load. A higher pitched noise indicates the big end shells needing replacing. On the plus side, the unit is simple and relatively inexpensive to overhaul if attention is required. The original B-Series was a twin-carb 1489cc unit, but bear in mind that later ZAs and ZBs used a better cylinder head with double valve springs. Is the correct engine still fitted? Often MGA or MGB versions were substituted. Gearboxes are sturdy, though they can become noisy and lose synchromesh, usually in second gear, but will usually soldier on regardless. The same goes for the rear axle. Check to see if the right ratio is still fitted to the car – 4.3:1, 4.875:1 and 4.55:1 versions were used during production. The combined clutch and brake master cylinder corrodes internally and is expensive to refurbish. 

RUNNING GEAR

Magnettes have 17 grease points, all of which need attention every 1000 miles. Expect a lot of wear and tear if this task has been neglected. Most components are hard wearing, but rusty front wishbones and broken rear springs are not uncommon. The standard drum brakes hold no particular horrors, but again, watch out for lack of maintenance. The standard set up is adequate, though many owners fit MkIII or IV drums or MGA discs for added stopping power. The rack-and-pinion steering gives few problems, but it’s worth looking for split gaiters, as these will let dirt in and destroy the rack. If there’s play in the steering between the inner and outer column tubes, check the felt bushes at each end of the column – they dry out, allowing for unwanted movement. The top one gives most problems, but happily this is the easiest one to check, simply by waggling the wheel. Another common problem area is each of the tie rods that locate the suspension longitudinally – there are two on each side, one in front and one behind the suspension assembly. Both corrode, leading to the bars snapping in a worst case scenario, so check them thoroughly for abrasion or damage.

INTERIOR

Magnette interiors are well-appointed affairs, in wood and fine leather, but are often damaged by ageing and water leaks. Perished screen rubbers are usually to blame. Replacement trim is expensive and tricky to source, so make sure it’s all there, while early cars’ wood effect steel dash units will be hard to replace too.

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OUR VERDICT

Excellent ride comfort, impressive road holding and surprisingly lively performance make the Magnette a great choice. Well respected to this day, the ZA and ZB enjoy fantastic club support, and an extensive selection of spares are available.

MG Y-TYPE REVIEW

The MG Y is ‘sporting’ in the 1950s sense. We guide you around this thoroughly charming saloon...

If the MG Y looks like a pre-World War 2 design then that’s because it is. Penned for a 1939 launch, the War got in the way. The Y (its first series was retrospectively called the YA) used the MG XPAG engine, independent front suspension and rack-and-pinion steering. A total of 6158 YAs were built, 1301 YBs (from 1951) and 877 YT four-seater convertibles. The MG Car Club Y Register believes more than 1000 of all types remain.

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VITAL STATISTICS

MG YA/YB/YT

Engine                                    1250cc/4-cyl

Power (bhp@rpm)                  46bhp@4800rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 56lb ft@2400rpm

Top speed                                71mph

0-60mph                                  28.2sec

Consumption                            29-36.5mpg

Gearbox                                    4-speed manual

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WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Corrosion is the enemy here. The bodyshell is developed from the Morris Eight, hence a cramped interior. Check the chassis carefully, especially at the underslung rear end. The front is usually protected by in-built anti-corrosion protection in the form of oil leaks. Check the sills – it doesn’t make sense to buy a car with rot and watch for blocked drain tubes from the sunroof. Explore all the panels, but especially door bottoms, boot floor, spare wheel cover, bootlid and rear wheel arches. Watch for leaks via the sunroof and windscreen and as the floors are plywood it can rot if left wet. On a YT, check the hood and weather gear.

ENGINE

The engine has a hard time of it, lugging around a tonne of car with just 46bhp. Watch the oil gauge – it’s not unusual for it to take time to build pressure up, so avoid revving when first started. Check that the pressure stays steady once built up, though it will drop at warm tickover. Listen for bottom end knocks and watch the exhaust for blue smoke. Watch the temperature too as the block and radiator can silt up. With the engine hot but turned off, feel the radiator for cold spots. Engine parts are easy to find, but gearbox internals are trickier. Make sure it isn’t too noisy and that the synchromesh operates in 2nd, 3rd and 4th. 

RUNNING GEAR

Check the front coils for damage/corrosion and make sure the trunnions have been well lubricated. Are the grease nipples clean, as if regularly used? Jack up each front wheel and check for play in the hub and steering components by trying to wiggle the wheel. A test drive might also reveal wear as the car should be easy to direct. At the rear, check the spring hangers for corrosion and the leaf springs for any cracks. Half shafts can break easily on the YA and YT. Some people are fitting modern five-speed gearboxes.

INTERIOR

Make sure all the dash instruments work, as they’re specific to the Y. The car uses a 12V system, but some vehicles upgrade to an alternator if modern ‘toys’, like an electric cooling fan, have been fitted. Inspect as much wiring as you can to check the state of the loom as it can degrade with time. Check the trim for condition as replacements are hard to find.

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OUR VERDICT

The MG Y manages to drive much more sweetly than its pre-WW2 looks might suggest. It’s charming, however it’s no sports car – 50mph is considered a safe cruising speed. Today it is a reminder of a time before motorways and a desperate rush to be nowhere in particular. 

That said, in its day it was a lively and fine-handling saloon – even MG sports cars of the time were not exactly fast. The YT with low-cut sides makes you feel open to the elements and like all Ys, they’re good fun to drive, if a little stately. YTs command a significant premium over saloons – £27,000 or more for the very best, £15,000-20,000 for good.

AUSTIN MINI REVIEW

What can we say that hasn’t already been said about the original Austin Mini, the first and best of all the compact cars?

The concept by Sir Alec Issigonis was stunning – turning the 850cc A-series engine east-west, mounting it on top of the gearbox and then shoehorning it all into a little engine bay was a brilliant concept; so good, in fact, that that is still followed by most manufacturers today. A body designed to have a revolutionary ten-inch wheel at each corner further minimised the intrusion of mechanical components into the cabin, leaving loads of room inside the little car for two adults in the front and three sprogs across the back seat.

Marketed at first under both the Austin and Morris brand names (the title Mini came a little later) at an achievable price (under £500), it all but killed the then working man’s transport of the motorcycle and sidecar overnight. The Mini became a social phenomenon – never before had a car managed to cross the class barriers so completely. You could find a Mini parked outside a terraced house in Leicester or just as equally garaged in the carriage house of a stately home.

If you have ever owned a classic Mini it will be only be remembered affectionately – they are just that sort of car.

MINI 1275 REVIEW

Billed as the replacement to the Cooper S, the Mini 1275GT featured a 1275cc 4 cylinder engine with 60BHP. It was built between 1969 and 1980 and was distinctive due to its Clubman front end. Roy Haynes was in charge of the controversial restyling which wasn’t embraced by all Mini fans.

The world’s first run flat tyre was added to the 1275GT. The Dunlop Denovo tyres were fitted to the 1275GT and were capable of travelling 40 miles at up to 50 mph. Another first that can be attributed to the 1275GT is the use of a flexi printed circuit board behind the dash instruments. This car was also the first mini to be made with a tachometer.

In 1971 the Mini Cooper S was discontinued in the U.K. so the 1275GT was left to be the only hot mini of the time. Although often criticised because of its weight, (1500 lbs) it still boasted impressive stats, with a top speed of 87mph and a 0-60 time of 13.5 seconds. The 1275GT offered more sophistication than the Cooper, with front disc brakes and an improved interior.

From 1975 British Leyland offered ‘Special’ models of the 1275GT, with an additional 40bhp, reclining seats and a bespoke green or white paint job.  The 1275GT’s radiator grille was originally fitted with a vertical Mini badge and GT lettering, but later cars had the Mini lettering placed horizontally in the centre of the grille with the GT badge deleted. Although this may have saved money it was unpopular with fans.

MINI COOPER REVIEW

We guide you through the grand finale of a tiny favourite from the last decade of Mini Cooper production

While the differences are vast compared with early Minis, you still get that go-kart feel, with super-direct steering and the typical bouncy ride. The first time you chuck a Mini into a tight bend while barely slowing down will make you laugh.

The post-1996 Coopers are more refined, which takes the edge off the performance. The optional big wheels don’t help matters, but a Sport Pack equipped Mini will still make most other cars seem oversized and clumsy.

The downside is that a proper Mini really is very small. You should bear that in mind because while the Mini generates plenty of smiles, you might start suffering after too long at the wheel.

Performance is brisk rather than super-fast, with the taller gearing of later cars taking some of the spark out of the acceleration. On paper, they’re actually pretty slow. Sitting as low as you do, theyfeel quicker than the paper suggests. Whether a later Mini is for you depends entirely on what you want. It’s still an awful lot of fun, and the tuning possibilities are nearly endless.

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VITAL STATISTICS

Mini Cooper 1.3i Sport Pack

Engine                                    1275cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  63bhp@5500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 70lb ft@3000rpm

Top speed                                86mph

0-60mph                                  13.3sec

Consumption                            30mpg  

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WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Corrosion is the number one enemy. Sadly these later Minis actually corrode far more readily than those built in previous decades. There are few places for rot to hide, so check all seams and inspect very carefully around the nose and scuttle. The bigger windscreen rubber fitted from 1996 covers unpainted metal, so rot here is very common. Check the seams very carefully around the headlamp panel, where it meets the front wings – corrosion is common here on any Mini. If replacement panels have been fitted, check the panel gaps, especially around the bonnet.

The Sports Pack added a chunky bodykit and 13" wheels. It looks great, but doesn’t do anything for handling or performance. In fact, it detracts a fair bit from both. Mini fans really do like them though, and it’s rare to see a 1996-on Mini without it. Incidentally, Mini owners do like to bling things up, so you can expect extra brightwork or even tuning modifications such as tweaked engines and sports exhausts. There are plenty of Minis out there, so make sure you don’t buy something with ill-conceived modifications that could affect the resale value later. There’s a growing market for cars in entirely standard condition.

Sills are a common corrosion point, as are the inner rear wheelarches either side of the rear seat. If you can, lift the carpet to check the floors. If you can’t, you’ll need to raise the car carefully to check the underside. Most people won’t bother to do this, but it could save big bills if you do. Even a mirror on a stick should give some indication of condition. The front footwells are the key rot spot.

Open the boot and check for corrosion and dampness around the boot floor. Later Minis have the screenwash bottle as well as the battery located here, as space was always tight in the engine bay. Again, it’s an easy area to overlook and corrosion can eat away unchecked and out of sight.

ENGINE

These later Coopers all use the 1275cc A-series engine, but with a vast number of changes. The original relaunched Cooper – known as RSP and introduced in 1990 – in effect uses an MG Metro engine, with a carburettor. 1650 RSPs were produced before a regular production Cooper took over with the same engine. Single-point fuel injection was fitted from October 1991 (spot the ‘1.3i’ badge on the boot). A major overhaul in 1996 saw multi-point injection fitted and a move to a front-mounted radiator. Later engines tend to be more reliable, but the A-series foibles are well known – blue exhaust smoke when thrashed and neglected being the main one. They all tend to drop a little oil.

ELECTRICS

From 1996, there were airbags, side impact beams in the doors and chunkier seats with walnut dashboards. Make sure the SRS light comes on with the ignition, but that it swiftly goes out again. If it doesn’t, there is an airbag fault. Metro-style seats were fitted from 1993. Check for damp if a sunroof is fitted. 

RUNNING GEAR

A four-speed gearbox was fitted to all Minis, but a Jack Knight five-speed unit could be fitted optionally. Watch for crunchy gearchanges suggesting a synchromesh or clutch issue, though the change was always notchy. Gearing was taller for later Minis, so they should be very much quieter at speed.

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OUR VERDICT

These later Minis may lack the raw edge of earlier cars, but they’re still enormous fun with bags of character. Only 237,664 were sold in the last decade of its life – about how many were sold in 1967 alone, so they’re not that common, despite the high survival rate. 

Prices have certainly tumbled for these Minis, but it’s been some time since they stopped. After several years of plateau, we suspect prices will begin to creep up again, but be warned that the people will only be interested in the very best. So battle with corrosion and keep it at bay to enjoy the highest prices. Then lock it up indoors, as Minis still disappear to thieves!

MITSUBISHI STARION REVIEW

Ford Capri not your bag? Then what about a rival 1980s coupé from the land of the rising sun that offers power and reliability? We look at the pros and cons of owning a Mitsubishi Starion

The street racing scene as we know it was a long way off in the early 1980s, but the kind of turbocharged coupés that would give birth to scenes like those in The Fast and the Furious were beginning to rear their heads.

Mitsubishi’s Starion (reputedly an amalgamation of the phrase ‘Star of Orion’) was one of the first of a series of hot coupés to storm out of the Far East. Along with the Supras and RX-7s of its day, the Starion brought edgy styling and supercar-humbling performance to the table at a fraction of the cost. Decent examples are scarce in the UK, but if you can track one down, few classics can offer as much performance for such little outlay. 

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VITAL STATISTICS

Mitsubishi Starion 2000 Turbo Widebody

Engine                                    1997cc/4-cyl/OHC 8-valve

Power (bhp@rpm)                  177bhp@6000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 214lb ft@3500rpm

Top speed                                133mph

0-60mph                                   6.9sec

Consumption                            19mpg

Gearbox                                    5-speed manual

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WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

The Mitsubishi Starion came in both narrowbody and widebody guises, the latter giving the car more road presence and stability, but adding a slight weight penalty. Front spoilers are prone to scuffs and stonechips, or even being torn off completely, so pay extra attention here. 

The Starion is also susceptible to its fair share of rot, though thankfully corrosion seems to be limited to the obvious places. The rear arches and the sills are the most common problem points. 

RUNNING GEAR

Like the engine, the five-speed manual gearbox is no less reliable than you’d expect from a Mitsubishi. Cars sold in the US and Japan were available with a four-speed automatic unit and some of these made their way to the UK. Again, the self-shifter is robust enough as long as it’s been looked after and the fluid changed regularly. 

Watch out for a slipping clutch on the test drive. This is often a sign of hard use and, given the Starion’s rarity, most of us could do without the resultant hunt for replacement parts. 

BRAKES

 Ventilated discs all-round mean the Starion is far from short of stopping power, so be wary of anything that requires a lot of effort from
the middle pedal. Handbrake cables are notoriously prone to sticking, which isn’t a serious malady, but offers a good haggling point. 

INTERIOR

The calculator-style 1980s switchgear isn’t of the greatest quality, so try before you buy. Give everything a good prod for durability purposes and be sure to test anything and everything electrical (windows, blowers, etc.). 
Parts are neither the easiest nor the cheapest to come by, though the owners’ club forum is a good bet for sourcing rarer items. The leather seats are likely to have worn heavily on well-used or neglected cars, so you should budget accordingly for a re-trim.

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OUR VERDICT

Brutally fast and with precise handling and impressive refinement for its era, the rear-wheel drive Starion is excellent value and an alternative choice of 1980s coupé. It has motor sport cred aplenty, too, having enjoyed success in the World Rally Championship, American endurance racing and more. We’d also wager that the Mitsubishi will fare better than its British rivals on the reliability front.  

MORGAN PLUS 4 REVIEW

The four-cylinder Morgans offer a traditionalist twist on open-air thrills – and they represent a great sports car investment if you buy sensibly. DAVID SIMISTER shows you what to look for

Morgan turned to a variety of manufacturers to give the original Plus 4 the oomph to match its charming looks, but here we’ll be focusing on the TR3-engined version, which was introduced in 1953 and used right up until the advent of the TR4 nine years later.

This particular Plus 4 was also the first to abandon a flat radiator grille in favour of a cowl which flowed into the bonnet – a styling feature which continues to be a Morgan hallmark to this day.

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VITAL STATISTICS

Morgan Plus 4 (1953-1962)

Engine                                    1991cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  105bhp@4650rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 127lb ft@3350rpm

Top speed                                100mph

0-60mph                                   9.7sec

Consumption                             27mpg

Gearbox                                    4-speed manual

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WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

The best places to check for corrosion are the sills, side members and sill boards, particularly important as this particular vintage of Plus 4 predates the debut of Morgan using rustproofing.

Check the chromework too for signs of pitting, because while specialists can restore it to its former glory, it can highlight how well the rest of the car has been looked after. 

One of the biggest problems with Morgan’s use of ash frames in its construction is that most of it’s hidden away. A good way to gauge the condition is to check the wooden rockers below each of the doors, and that both of them close properly; one that doesn’t can indicate signs of rot around the door hinge posts.

ENGINE

Thanks to sharing its engine with another 1950s sports car – Triumph’s TR3 – there’s plenty of support and spares available to help tackle any mechanical maladies. However, it is prone to leaking oil around the rear crank seal, so check for oil leaks around the rear of the engine.

More imperative is the Moss gearbox, for which parts are harder to come by. Make sure you’re happy that it’ll happily engage all the gears, and walk away or haggle if it shows any signs of wanting to jump out of gear.

RUNNING GEAR

Check the kingpins for signs of excessive play, and that they have been greased regularly. Inspect the leaf suspension at the rear to make sure it is free from cracks or any signs of sagging. Brakes can be prone to seizing on with little used examples. Take a decent test drive to ensure you can live with the Morgan's 'lively' suspension characteristics too. 

INTERIOR

Give the seats, carpets and trim a thorough check. Haggle accordingly if these are in tatty condition. Checking the hood forcondition, especially if you intend more than summer use. Pay attention to instruments and switchgear as some older components are harder to find and you’ll be into getting parts re-conditioned.

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OUR VERDICT

There are plenty of Plus 4s to choose from and if you’re not familiar with older cars you might be better off with the much later Fiat and Rover engined versions made after the model’s 1985 rebirth, which look similar but offer an easier ownership experience.

The older Plus 4, however, is a rugged, depreciation-proof sports car that’s built to last.

MORGAN PLUS 8 REVIEW

The unique appeal of a Morgan is undeniable, and with so much character on offer outright speed isn’t necessarily all that important.  However, those after some extra shove will love the Plus 8, the addition of the lightweight V8 adding a real boost to performance when it arrived in 1968.  In fact the Plus 8 was a real E-Type baiter back in the day, the relatively light construction allowing it to hit 60mph in less than seven seconds.  And with later cars benefitting from larger capacities and outputs of up to 220bhp, you’ll certainly not find yourself wanting for pace.  

There’s plenty of low down torque as well so you’ll have no trouble surprising the drivers of more modern machinery when it comes to the traffic light grand prix, although such antics aren’t really befitting of a car like this.  Instead, it’s far better to sit back and enjoy the smooth power delivery and woofling exhaust note, just using the power to squirt past the odd B-road dawdler.  

If the underpinnings seem a little archaic, don’t worry.  The Plus 8 is more than capable of getting that power to the road, although it does tend to prefer smoother surfaces as the stiff rear suspension can see the car skipping over mid-corner bumps and things can get a little unruly on bumpy surfaces.  

In any case the accurate and feelsome steering means it’s easy to correct such wandering while the brakes inspire plenty of confidence.  The latter need a firm shove on non-servo cars though but you soon get used to it and there’s plenty of feel through the pedal, making them easy to modulate. 

And if a Plus 8 is fun to drive, it’s even more special to sit in.  The cabin is cosy certainly with the steering wheel sitting close to your chest in true vintage style but consider it snug rather than cramped.  It does mean all the controls are close to hand though and there’s no arguing with the quality of the materials used.  The Plus 8 feels like a car that’s built to last.

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VITAL STATISTICS

Morgan Plus 8 (1978)

Engine           3532cc/V8/OHV

Power            155bhp@5250rpm

Torque          198lb ft@2500

Top speed    124mph

0-60mph        6.5sec

Economy      21mpg

Gearbox        5-speed manual  

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WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

The steel chassis - galvanized from the late 1980s - resists corrosion remarkably well but it’s worth checking around the rear axle, rear spring hangers, and the box sections beneath the cabin.  Splitting around the engine mounts is often the result of frontal impact damage so check here too.  A replacement is around £800 but you’re looking at around 125 hours of specialist labour to fit it so the final bill will be substantial; Morgan themselves quote around 200 hours.
 

The traditional ash frame was pressure treated with Cuprinol from 1986 onwards.  Replacement is a skilled task but it’s not as rot-prone as you might expect, though it pays to get the car on a ramp to check the sill boards.  And don’t assume that vertical movement of the doors is down to rotten hinge posts - it’s just as likely to be wear in the hinges themselves, but a specialist inspection is wise.  Depending on year, body panels could be steel, aluminium, or a mix of the two - either way check them carefully as replacement costs can be high.  Earlier hand-beaten wings are more susceptible to damage, while bubbling paint signifies corrosion.

ENGINE

The V8 ied in size and output over the years but all are durable with proper maintenance.  Cooling systems can be a weak spot on early cars so keep an eye on the temperature gauge and ensure system components are healthy.  Correct anti-freeze levels are vital for longevity as are regular oil and filter changes, the latter preventing camshaft wear and sludging of the hydraulic tappets.  And watch for worn timing gear and signs of oil leaks, and for evidence of oil or coolant seepage from the head gaskets.

The original twin SU carburetors were replaced by Strombergs in 1981 and both are reliable and easy to overhaul.  Bosch L-Jetronic injection arrived in 1984 and while Lucas injection was also fitted the injectors themselves are no longer available and need replacing with Bosch items.  Later models used a Rover GEMS engine management system which suffers the odd ECU glitch, but specialist repairers can sort them.  Catalytic convertors arrived for 1992/93 and they rarely cause trouble.

TRANSMISSION

Gearboxes ranged from a 4-speed Moss unit on early cars to 5-speed LT77 and R380 units later.  Rebuilding the Moss unit is a tricky DIY task but parts are available.  They’re getting scarce for the LT77 unit though which can also suffer from oil leaks and excessive noise from bearings and gears.  It’s not unusual to find gearbox swaps in a Plus 8 so it somewhat depends on your views on originality.  Regular oil changes will keep rear axles and limited slip differentials trouble-free.
 

SUSPENSION

Sliding pillar front suspension was fitted but regular lubrication of the king pins is the important thing.  Earlier models had a remote arrangement operated by a cabin switch and fed from the main engine oil system, although some owners replaced it with conventional grease nipples which aren’t always as effective with phosphor-bronze bushes.  Watch for sagging rear leaf springs too, but neither the lever arm or later telescopic dampers give trouble.


BRAKES

Lack of use causes brake parts to seize and it’s worth noting that the Girling set-up changed to Lockheed in 1993 (the vacuum servo was removed post-1981, not returning until 1992/93)  The steering box was changed for rack and pinion in the mid-80s and neither arrangement gives particular trouble.  It’s worth checking for any stiffness that indicates a box lacking lubrication or seizing track rod ends, while excessive column movement is likely to be worn bushes.  Power assistance was never offered but some cars got aftermarket conversions.

INTERIOR AND TRIM

There’s little to worry about in the cabin other than wear and tear.  Refurbishment with quality leather and wood will cost so avoid anything too decrepit, and check for signs of water damage.  And don’t forget to check the condition of the hood and its mechanism as replacement costs will soon mount.    

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OUR VERDICT

That brawny V8 added a whole new dimension to the Morgan’s appeal, and the Plus 8 is inherently robust.  Buy carefully though as major restoration is a costly business, and you need to make sure you can live with its unique approach.  But with excellent specialists and a thriving club scene, the lure of a Plus 8 is extremely hard to resist.

With a production run spanning more than 25 years and numerous developments valuing a Plus 8 isn’t especially easy.  Prices here are representative of an early-80’s model, but what’s clear is that values remain very firm.  Cheap, scruffy cars tend to be rare as even those are ideal for classic racing preparation, while early Moss-box cars can easily reach £55,000 in top condition.  While values probably haven’t topped out yet buy wisely and its nigh-on certain you won’t lose money.

PORSCHE 356 REVIEW

It's difficult to understate the significance of a car as evocative as the 356. Designed by Ferry Porsche himself when father Professor Ferdinand was in prison after the Second World War, it lit the touchpaper on one of the most successful dynasties in motoring and motor racing. But what makes the 356 appeal now? It's the combination of history, fun and low-maintenance motoring. The formula was simple: it was to be a sports coupe based loosely on a design for Volkswagen, which was first produced in Wolfsburg in 1939 and went on to be known as one of the most distinctive cars on the planet - the Beetle. 
The 356's basic composition remained steadfast throughout production. Buyers got an air-cooled, petrol-fired engine with four horizontally opposed cylinders mounted down behind the rear axle. That means an inherent low centre of gravity, and therefore engaging handling.
There were a number of engines available, ranging from the earliest 1.1-litre cars to the rare and incredibly desirable 2.0-litre, four-cam models. The 356 also spawned a variety of extremely high-level motor sport projects, culminating in successful campaigns at Le Mans, the Mille Miglia and the Monte Carlo Rally - to name but a few. The innovative front suspension layout was borrowed from the Silver Arrow Auto Union grand prix cars Ferdinand Porsche had worked on before starting his own firm.
It wasn't without its trials, though. Thanks to swing axles at the back, roadgoing 356s had a tendency to lift at the rear during harder cornering, snapping quickly and often irretrievably into oversteer as the changes in camber angles of the rear wheels caused loss of grip.
This gave rise to a new driving technique called 'wishening', which involved competition drivers sawing at the wheel of their 356, coaxing it into oversteer with each turn of the wheel and winding it off once the skid began before doing it all over again. It was the only way to retain momentum as the back of the car pitched up and down through the bend - it's certainly a spectacle. Happily, the car's appeal was cemented by the support of well-known owners including Steve McQueen, Sean Connery and French President Georges Pompidou.

VITAL STATISTICS
Engine four-cylinder horizontally opposed, air-cooled petrol - 1.1-litre, 1.3-litre, 1.5-litre and 1.6-litre pushrod; 1.5, 1.6 and 2.0-litre 4-cam Carrera engines
Power 40bhp to 130bhp, 47lb ft to 119lb ft
Top speed 126mph
0-60mph 8.8-19sec
Gearbox Volkswagen four-speed non- or semi-synchronised manual
 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODY AND CHASSIS
It's important you carefully check the corrosion-prone areas of the car. Marque expert Andy Prill explains. 'The 356 has a steel monocoque and all the models will rust if not properly protected or looked after. The battery floor and main floors are the most commonly affected areas, followed by the sills and doors. Good underseal is essential and rubber seals are also important, otherwise cars will rust from inside to out.'
Most have seen some sort of restoration, but to find a good one you'll need an eye for the finer points. 'The devil is in the detail - not just in terms of the obvious but in the way that the metalwork is finished and the restoration methods used,' advises Andy.
Prill reports that most body panels are readily available. 'A few aren't, but can be made easily enough. A Danish firm called Simonsen supplies Porsche.'
The Simonsen panels can be bought through Karmann Konnection. Sales manager Andy Rickard says, 'A floorpan is £198 per half (front or rear). A full nose cone is £1750; doors are £1500 each. A new hood will cost £550 for Speedster, Roadset and Cabriolet models.'

ENGINE AND DRIVETRAIN
Assuming a conscientious maintenance regime, owners can expect few issues.
'Porsche's byword was reliability and it didn't like warranty claims, so only the best designs and materials were used,' says Prill. 'Of the pushrod engines it tends to be the lower-power units that are the most reliable. Porsche made a few mistakes along the way - the thermostatic oil valve of 1957 being a case in point. In a strange way it's the engine's reliability that ends up going full circle and becomes a negative because they will run to the point of destruction and then it's too late.'
Oil leaks are common and usually simple fixes - some engines will require a rebuild but many can be fixed by a set of gaskets, which usually costs around £180-£250.
'The four-cam engines are much more complex but will give very reliable service if maintained properly,' says Prill.
Andy suggests engines generally need a rebuild at intervals between 60,000 and 100,000 miles, and this can cost £6k-8k if all of the main parts - such as the cranksharft - can be re-used.
'The Carrera [quad-cam] engine is different - rebuilds can cost from £15k to £20k for an inspection rebuild, £60k to £100k if major parts are required.'
Porsche engineered its gearboxes so well they can regularly see more than 250,000 miles without a rebuild.

BRAKES AND SUSPENSION
Luckily, there's generally a wide range of braking and suspension system spares on offer for 356 owners.
'Parts supply is excellent and around 95 per cent of brake and suspension components are readily available from a variety of specialist parts suppliers,' says Prill. But if you had to replace everything including the brake drums the parts alone would be around £4500 for a drum-brake car and £3000 for a disc-braked version. Labour would be between £4000 to £6000.'
Andy wouldn't advise playing with the geometry too much. 'The factory settings work well. You can lower the ride height but it's not advisable to go too low because this will cause premature wear of the axles and fulcrum plates in the differential. The 356s are sensitive to tyre size; the largest I suggest is a 175x15 because going larger destroys the handling characteristics.' 
 

OUR VERDICT
First decide which 356 you want to buy - and there's no shortage of options. A clean, restored and ready-to-drive car may cost more to buy but needs little outlay to run. 
A tatty non-restored car, however, is likely to cost far more to get up to scratch before you can enjoy it. 
When you've found a car, Andy strongly suggests having a pre-purchase inspection service carried out by a 356 expert.
'Because 356 prices have been increasing I'm seeing a lot of mutton dressed as lamb. However, the Porsche Club Great Britain will provide you with help and advice.'
Porsche's Kardex records contain vital information about how the car left the factory. It's useful for seeing which colour it was painted, the engine number and so on.

PORSCHE 356B T5 REVIEW

The 1948 Porsche 356 employed a platform chassis with rear-mounted air-cooled engine and torsion bar all-independent suspension. 1955 marked the arrival of the 356A, readily distinguishable by its now curved one-piece screen, a wider range of engines and 15'' instead of 16'' wheels. Announced at the 1959 Frankfurt Motor Show, the Porsche 356B T5 enhanced Porsche's reputation as builders of the finest small capacity sports cars, continuing the huge commercial success of its predecessors. Handling, ride and refinement were improved, as well as the addition of a more powerful 90bhp 1600cc engine to the range, a higher nose, more vertical headlamp lenses and raised front winglets - all of which upped the original cars' appeal and firmly established it as by far the best car in its class.

CLASSIC CAR REVIEWS - PORSCHE 911 930 SC

The 911 is a serious sports car, and it’s hard to believe the model has just celebrated its half century. With this sort of history, driving one is just the special experience you might imagine, one dominated by that air-cooled engine slung out back. 
It makes a terrific noise under hard acceleration that encourages you to push harder, something that’s easy to do with the power on offer. And if 180bhp doesn’t sound like much in this day and age, it is still enough to shove the coupé to 60mph in around 6.5secs – later 204bhp cars would crack 6sec. 
But it’s not just about speed of course as there is also the famed 911 handling to master, and learning to get the best out of one of these cars is all part of the experience. The reputation isn’t great and a downhill corner taken at speed – especially in the wet – could well result in a tricky moment, but plenty of owners reckon that reputation is unfair. 
Taking a ‘slow in/fast out’ approach to cornering works best, but in the dry the traction endowed on the 911 by that rear-engine layout is undeniably impressive. So too is the steering, which feels alive in your hands as you thread the compact SC down the road, and with no power assistance to corrupt the feel it’s a very responsive set-up. 
The suspension works well too, the nose gently bobbing up and down courtesy of those torsion bar springs, and the brakes are powerful. The cabin of the SC is classic 911 too, the driver faced by a five-dial instrument pack, rev-counter directly ahead. Okay so there is a somewhat scattergun approach to the minor controls but it’s easy to get used to, and in any case there is plenty else to concentrate on including the quirky floor-hinged pedals. The spindly gear lever looks a touch awkward but actually proves fine to use. With a good driving position and excellent visibility the 911 could just be the perfect everyday sports car.
 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

1 Despite the galvanized body, 911s of this vintage are susceptible to corrosion and eradicating it can cost a fortune. Careful checking is needed – preferably by a specialist – concentrating on areas such as the front wings (particularly around the headlamp bowls), the sills, and the ‘kidney bowls’ that sit at the rear of the sill behind each door opening. Look closely for any signs of bubbling beneath window rubbers, especially the front and rear screens, and pay particular attention to the B-pillars – a mixture of steel and aluminium means they corrode around the door catches and can be costly to fix. 

2 Check the bumpers are firmly affixed as the mountings rot. You need to check the floor pan thoroughly including within the front luggage compartment as water ingress might have allowed rot to take hold. Only ‘Sport’ models had a rear spoiler fitted as standard, so ensure aftermarket additions are fitted properly.

3 The characterful flat-six engine is tough, but only if it’s been maintained correctly. Neglect will play havoc with reliability (and with your bank account) so check carefully for excessive exhaust smoke, signs of low oil pressure, or major oil leaks – minor weeps are common and usually nothing to worry about. Timing chain tensioners are a weak spot and failure will destroy the interference engine, so ask when they were last changed, and what quality of parts were used. Cylinder heads can suffer from broken studs which aren’t always obvious so check around the join between head and cylinder barrel for signs of air or oil leakage. Poor running could be down to issues with the Bosch injection
system, which may need specialist attention to sort. A loose fuel pump relay in the front luggage compartment can cause sporadic cutting out. Various revisions saw the 180bhp output of early cars raised to 204bhp by the end of production.

4 The SC was fitted with the ‘915’ gearbox, a source of much debate among 911 drivers and enthusiasts. Don’t ignore one with issues as it won’t be cheap to fix, but the recalcitrant gearchange that many complain of can differ between cars and some adjustment is possible – slow and deliberate ‘changes seem to be key to extracting the best from it. It is worth checking for signs of a tired clutch, as replacement is labour-intensive. Listed as a special option by Porsche, the three-speed ‘Sportomatic’ auto ‘box isn’t especially well-regarded and was dropped after 1979.

5 Suspension is a combination of MacPherson-style struts at the front and semi-trailing arms at the rear, with torsion bar springs at both ends. Worn bushes aside, it’s a sound arrangement that rarely gives trouble. A check of the mountings for corrosion is recommended while brakes and steering should be similarly trouble-free and any car that’s been maintained properly should fine here. Wheels were either ‘cookie-cutter’ ATS rims or the familiar Fuchs items, and both can be refurbished at reasonable cost. Upgrades and modifications to brakes/suspension are fairly common, so ensure you’re happy with the standard of work.

6 It’s worth ensuring the heating system works okay – rotten heat exchangers are the bugbear here – and likewise the optional air-conditioning if fitted (repair costs may have deterred previous owners).

7 The SC was the first full convertible 911, so needless to say you’ll need to check the condition of the hood and its frame. Also popular was the ‘Targa’ model – a name trademarked by Porsche – with its lift-out roof panel. Check the condition of the roof seals on both models and ensure water leaks haven’t damaged trim or begun to cause corrosio

Forget any thoughts that the SC is a poor-man’s 3.2 Carrera. Values are rising rapidly, and being one of the lighter and purer of the breed is proving popular with owners and specialists alike. They are certainly being appreciated more and if prices are yet to overtake the 3.2, then they aren’t far behind. Restoration costs can be eye-watering so buying a good one to begin with is advisable. Most have been rebuilt by now, but factor this in if this isn’t the case.
 

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine 2994cc/6-cyl/SOHC
Power 180bhp@5500rpm
Torque 188lb ft @4200
Top Speed 141mph
0-60mph 6.5sec  
Economy 21mpg
GEARBO 5-spd man/3-spd auto

Weights & measures
Height 1320mm (52in)
Width 1626mm (64.1in)
Length 4291mm (169.1in) 
Wheelbase 2272mm (89.5in) 
KERB WEIGHT 1160kg (2557lb)

OUR VERDICT 

Buy a 911 and you’ll own one of the world’s finest sports cars. The SC is a great example of the breed with all the classic design cues and strong performance, but caution is needed. A bad one will be a money pit – a good one however will be an absolute joy.

PORSCHE 911 CARRERA REVIEW

The last of the classic-era 911s is also arguably the best buy, but be wary.

The 911 Carrera 3.2 was launched in 1984 to replace the 911 SC. Most changes in what was a gentle evolution focused on the rear-mounted, six-cylinder engine. A rise in size to 3164cc was good but the major news was Bosch Motronic engine management. Later 911s do carry a bit more weight than earlier cars, but have a fair dose more grunt. You could specify a big rear wing, brakes and suspension of the Turbo for the Turbo-look. 

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VITAL STATISTICS

Porsche 911 3.2 Carrera 

Engine                                    3164cc/flat-6/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  231bhp@5900rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 209lb ft@4800rpm

Top speed                                151mph

0-60mph                                   5.5sec 

Consumption                            22-25mpg

Gearbox                                    5-speed manual

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WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Don’t let talk of galvanised bodies distract you. These 911s can – and do – rust. Accident damage is also an issue as not everyone respected the handling quite as much as they should. Be very wary of any suspect panel gaps and check for repairs that aren’t up to scratch. A blow-over can quickly make even a rough 911 appear smart at first glance. Rot can strike in the front wings around the headlamps and the trailing edge, but you really need to get underneath to check around the rear suspension mounts and inner wings. If you see any sign of bubbling just ahead of the rear wheels, above the sill line, expect significant rot. Also check the ‘kidneys’ – the panelwork to the rear of the door-shut. Rot here can be terminal, so ensure they are both solid.

ENGINE

These engines are tough, with the hydraulic timing chain tensioner a huge improvement over earlier models. However, 911s often cover huge distances, so check the service history to see if the recorded mileage can be verified. Any clattering from the engine is bad news and suggests a top end rebuild is likely to be required. Watch for blue smoke too, as cylinders can wear, especially if lots of short journeys have been undertaken. Check the service history for work carried out as well as stamps. Recent engine work is always a bonus.

Until 1987, the 915 gearbox was used. This can be very clunky in first and second, especially when cold. The later G50 gearbox is considered an improvement – spot it by reverse gear being next to first. It came with a hydraulic clutch too, so the pedal should be lighter. Once warm, either gearbox should allow quick, crunch-free changes.

ELECTRICS

The top-model 300SE and 300SEL had air suspension, which was high-tech stuff for the early 1960s. The ride it gives is quite remarkable, but problems can be very expensive indeed to fix, and parts are not plentiful. Buy an air-sprung Fintail with your eyes wide open, and have the phone numbers of a specialist and your bank manager close at hand.

RUNNING GEAR

The brakes should naturally haul the car to a quick halt with the minimum of fuss. The torsion bar suspension has little to go wrong, but worn dampers can make a 911 feel skittish and tired bushes can lead to clonking and vagueness. People are sometimes tempted to modify the height. They shouldn’t. The steering should be accurate and entirely free of play. Inspect the tyres. You want deep tread, not worn out rubber by a different manufacturer on each corner.

INTERIOR

Ventilation is a weak point, so make sure the air conditioning is working if fitted. Assume it isn’t working if told it has been disconnected. Check the electric windows too and make sure the heater can be turned on/off. Damage to the seats is rare as they are hard wearing, but that and wear on the steering wheel and pedal rubbers can be used to help gauge whether the recorded mileage is genuine.

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OUR VERDICT

There is surely no better entry into 911 ownership than the 3.2 Carrera. It’s the final evolution of the original, tracing its roots right back to 1966. The 964 that replaced it was substantially different. So, if you want the classic Porsche experience, the 3.2 is a less expensive option to consider.  

BUGATTI TYPE 57 REVIEW

Launched at the 1936 Paris Salon in supercharged form, the Type 57C was probably the most celebrated non-racing car that Bugatti ever produced, and regarded as the finest of all touring Bugatti models, following the established twin-cam straight-eight 3.3-litre Type 57 of 1934.

Driven by gearing from the camshaft drive, the supercharger gave the Type 57C a wonderful combination of performance and flexibility. Power output was boosted from 135 to 160bhp, with a corresponding improvement in acceleration. Top speed now increased from 95mph towards 120mph. The style of the Type 57 range showed a strong influence of Ettore Bugatti's talented young son Jean (Gianoberto) and at last gave the Bugatti marque a civilised grande routier to match the rival products of Delage and Delahaye.

Its success is revealed by the production figures. Some 680 examples of all models of the Type 57 produced between 1934-40, and the post-war T101 was based on the Type 57 chassis. The Type 57 was more or less new from stem to stern, only the six-bearing twin overhead cam engine having the same dimensions as the single cam Type 49. Continuing with the fixed head block, mounted on an aluminium crankcase, a single piece crankshaft was employed with plain bearings, pressurized lubrication and a wet sump.

Moves by Jean Bugatti to manufacture an independently sprung front axle arrangment with the first fifty or so cars were blocked by father Ettore's single minded approach that the car would remain a fine model with a solid front axle, sprung as it was. The gearbox was intregal with the engine with a single plate clutch unit, the gears being of constant mesh in second, third and fourth, engaged by dog-clutches.

This 3.3-litre model was effectively the sole model built between 1934 and the outbreak of World War Two, the engine also used to power the Type 59, the last significant Grand Prix Bugatti. Combined with good roadholding, the Bugatti Type 57 had a smooth, torquey engine, with excellent steering that became lighter as the car increased in speed, an ideal car for those all-day runs. While several Type 57s were fitted with one-off bodywork, the most popular coachwork was built to Jean Bugatti's designs by the marque's preferred carrossier, Gangloff of Colmar, just a few miles from the Bugatti works at Molsheim.

BUGATTI TYPE 46 REVIEW

Introduced at the 1929 London and Paris Motor Shows, Ettore Bugatti's favourite model was the result of his decision to move his passenger car range progressively up market.

The Type 46, referred to as the 5-litre, is often considered to be a scaled down version of the Type 41 Royale. The Royale aside, the new single overhead cam straight-eight 5,359cc nine-bearing twin-plug dry sumped Bugatti Type 46 was thought to be the most luxurious Bugatti of its day, the chassis price of £975 coming in at £425 more than the previous Type 44 of 3-litre capacity. The only Bugatti model to share the same massive stroke as the mighty 12,763cc Royale at 130mm, the new 140bhp Type 46 has impressive torque characteristics, top gear able to pull from 10 to 96mph on a 3.9:1 axle. Going some way towards balanced weight distribution, the gearbox is incorporated in the rear axle and actuated by a centrally located ball change, perpetuating Type 28 and Royale practice.

A new and longer chassis of 11ft 4ins or 3.5 metres was introduced, giving coachbuilders considerable scope, the factory offering its own range of open and closed bodywork, many customers preferring to order their own from a multitude of coachbuilders available. A mere 400 or so models were built, Bugatti displaying a Type 46 at the London Motor Show of 1933, and listing the car for 1934.

BUGATTI TYPE 55 REVIEW

Buagatti Type 55, Sir? Don't mind if I do... 

By the early 1930s Ettore Bugatti had established an unrivalled reputation for building cars with outstanding performance on road or track the worlds greatest racing drivers enjoying countless successes aboard the Molsheim factorys products and often choosing them for their everyday transport. Because of its lengthy run of success, Ettore Bugatti remained stubbornly committed to his single-cam engine, only adopting the more advanced double-overhead-camshaft method of valve actuation, after much prompting by his eldest son Jean, on the Type 50 of 1930.

From then on Jean Bugatti took greater responsibility for design, his first car being the exquisite Bugatti Type 55 roadster, a model ranking among the finest sports cars of the 1930s. The Type 55s 2,262cc, supercharged, twin-cam, straight-eight engine was carried over from the successful Type 51 Grand Prix car - successor to the legendary Type 35 - and fitted in a ladder frame chassis wider and stronger than that of its Type 43 road-car predecessor. The precocious Jean Bugatti added his own individual touch, designing a sublime two-seat roadster body that is universally acknowledged as one of the finest ever to grace an automobile. Aimed at only the wealthiest clientele, the Type 55 sold in commensurately limited numbers, a mere 38 being built between 1932 and 1935, the vast majority of these in the first year of production. A true supercar of its era, the Type 55 is today one of the most desirable and expensive cars in the world.

PORSCHE 911 930 TURBO REVIEW

By 1975 the Porsche 911 had already been in the public eye for 12 years, in production models and also the racetrack, spearheaded by the top of the range Carrera RS models of 1974. But it wasn’t until then that the venerable 911 gained the power to truly exploit its sublime design. Early RSR prototypes had experimented with turbocharging in 1974, and it was this research work that paved the way for the introduction of one of the most famous 911 models of all time the Porsche 911 Turbo (aka the 930).

Unlike previous models, the 911 Turbo was given the bodywork to suit its power output, early models sporting the infamous ‘whale tail’ rear spoiler, brought in to help tame the 911’s twitchy handling by increasing downforce over the rear driving wheels and wider arches to accommodate fatter tyres. It helped achieve this, and also made it one of the most iconic designs to ever grace a bedroom wall. Later cars would be given an intercooler, which was located in the spoiler to maximise cooling – often mistaken to be the radiator by the layman.

The first cars were fitted with a 3-litre flat-six engine that produced an impressive 260bhp – a 50bhp improvement over the 2.7 RS. The huge turbocharger did wonders for power output, but it wasn’t without its foibles, early cars being famed for their horrendous turbo lag. Keep this in mind when considering which 911 is right for you.

By 1978 the model had evolved. An increase in engine capacity to 3.3-litres combined with the new spoiler-mounted intercooler squeezed a further 40bhp from the engine, peak power coming in somewhere around the 300bhp mark. This gave the 911 Turbo truly legendary performance, and its homologation into the FIA Group 4 competition allowed Porsche to showcase it on the racetrack.

Amongst other prestigious competitions, the Turbo was entered into the renowned 24 Heurs de Le Mans, where it had some memorable battles with the BMW 3.0 CSL ‘Batmobile’.

While values of 911 Turbos are on the up, the investor’s choice is the ‘Flachbau’ or ‘slant nose’, which was an option available through Porsche’s special order scheme. Rather than the normal 911 front, each Flachbau was reworked by hand to include a more aerodynamic wedge shape. An expensive option when new, these cars are now highly sought after. A performance kit was also added to these prestigious models, upping power to 330bhp. This was achieved with the addition of a 4-branch exhaust system, modified rockers and a beefy intercooler.

BUICK RIVIERA REVIEW

Fancy a car with V8 muscle-car grunt but more sophisticated styling, better road manners and a proper cabin? Welcome to the Buick Riviera, the closest Sixties America got to building a Bentley Continental. We’re looking at three different Rivieras; the original 1963 to ’65 cars, the Cadillac-based second generation from 1966 to ’70 and finally the distinctive ‘Boattail’ 1971 to ’73 versions.

There's not much out there, as you’d expect. But there are upsides to this – the Buick Club UK will know most if not all of the cars offered for sale, so joining up is a wise move. Secondly, hardly anyone bothers to import something rusty, so most Rivieras are well-preserved. 
If you’re open-minded about your preferred model, shop in the UK but if not, try finding the right car in the USA and importing it yourself. Shipping starts at well under £1000 from the East Coast, although import duty and VAT push up the cost. A good shipping agent will remove all the hassle for you.
 

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine 7046cc/V8/OHV
Power 360bhp@5000rpm
Torque 475lb ft@3200rpm
Top speed 118mph
0-60mph 10.7sec
Gearbox 3-speed automatic

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

All three phases mounted a steel body on a hefty separate chassis. This makes for good durability but high kerb weights and it also means that if you find a car corroded enough to fail an MoT, you’ve probably got a major project on your hands. The hassle and expense of finding a good secondhand body in the US means you should try to try to find a recent dry-state import. Look where you’d check on any Sixties car – sills, floors, wheel-arches and door bottoms; be very thorough.
The first generation featured innovations like bonded front and rear screens and frameless side glass, so be sure everything still seals and you don’t get howling drafts or wet carpets. Second generation cars shared their basic shell with the FWD Oldsmobile Toronado and Cadillac Eldorado, but remain RWD. Like all Rivieras, tired chrome parts will have to be sourced from US breakers.
The boattail cars obviously have some rather special glass in that elegant pointed tail, which is not impossible to find. A total respray is a considerable undertaking on a car this size and a nice job can double the cost of a decent, solid car if you’re determined to have perfect paint.

ENGINES

The engines fall into two families, the ‘nailhead’ units, (their small valves resemble nails sticking out of the head when you remove the rocker covers) of 401 and 425 cu in (6571cc and 6964cc) used from ’63 to ’66, and the big-block V8 that replaced it from 1967. This appeared in the Riviera in 430 cu in (7046cc) and 455 cu in (7456cc) version. All Rivieras made 300bhp or more at the flywheel, and though horsepower dropped off a little after peaking at 370bhp 1970, all are quick enough to be exciting. Gran Sport options with twin four-barrel carburettors are prized but reduce the economy from poor to terrifying – single figures are possible.
Worn engines smoke, especially nailheads, but unless it continues long after start-up you should be more concerned with rumbles or rattles indicating bearing damage or oil and water mixing thanks to failing head gaskets. There’s no temperature gauge and the idiot light sometimes doesn’t give owners enough warning. Water pumps can fail as worn drive belts are over-tightened – check for play in the pulley and look for drips.  

TRANSMISSION

The first year of Riviera production, 1963, had Buick’s Twin-Turbine drive automatic, a version of the fluid-drive Dynaflow from 1948 with enough unfamiliarity to scare off some of today’s transmission specialists. From 1964, Rivieras used the ubiquitous General Motors Turbo Hydramatic, called the Super Turbine 400 in Buick models. They’re tough and reliable, with only the iable-pitch torque convertor stator used up to 1967 causing any problems.
1963-1970 Rivieras have two CV joints in their long driveshafts, which should be lubricated with high-pressure grease via a needle-type fitting on a grease gun. Suspect trouble here if the car shudders when moving away from a standstill.

SUSPENSION, STEERING AND BRAKES

It’s a typically American set-up of twin wishbones and coil springs at the front, live rear axle with twin trailing arms and (less common) a lateral track bar and coils at the rear too. The ’66-’70 cars were larger and a little softer on their Cadillac-based platform, while the 71-’73 Boattails were just full-size standard Buicks underneath and are the softest of the lot. Brakes were large, finned aluminium drums which were good by contemporary standards but can be made to fade away with hard use. Front discs were an option from ’67, standard from ’71, but weren’t vastly better. Standard power steering was a little light to be sporting, even on the first model, but is reliable and familiar – just watch for leaks or howling steering pumps.  

INTERIOR

There’s so much iation in trim year-by-year that it’s safer to enquire with specialists and clubs about missing or damaged interior trim before you buy a car, if the one you’re offered is afflicted. Seat fabric for old American cars is remarkably obtainable though, as are carpets, so a total re-trim is probably not impossible on any Riviera.

ELECTRICS

The desirable ’65 models with stacked headlamps concealed in the ‘fender pods’ at the outer ends of the grille suffer failures after the electric motor that drives each one burns out. This usually happens when owners fail to lubricate the mechanism. The hidden headlamps on the 1966, ’67, ’68 and ’69 models are in the grille, covered by hydraulically-actuated covers which are more trouble to sort out – be sure they work. The interiors were loaded with electric luxury items like powered windows and seats, a speedometer safety buzzer to warn of excessive progress, a map light, a clock, courtesy lamps and so on. Check them all and use failures as a bargaining point.

VERDICT

If you can live with the thirst, you certainly should. Even people who don’t ‘get’ American machinery will admire them, because the looks, luxury and performance really did set them apart in their day, and still do now. This is especially true of the ’63-’65 models and Boattails are certainly eye-catching.

PORSCHE 911 964 REVIEW

When the Porsche 911 964 Carrera appeared in 1989, it was touted to be three-quarters brand-new. Originally only available with four-wheel drive, a rear-wheel drive variant was added in 1989. Coupe, Targa and cabriolet versions were available. The engine was a new 3.6-litre flat six, and the suspension was comprehensively overhauled over the long-lived 930. Not only did the car have dampers and coil springs, but power steering and ABS were now standard fitments. The rear spoiler raised automatically above 50mph, which gave speeding owners no excuses when caught by the then-new speed camera network. This era of 911 heralded the first use of tiptronic (semi-automatic) gearboxes.

1992 saw the release of the Carrera RS, which featured lightweight construction methods and 260bhp. It featured stiffer springs, limited slip differential and a close ratio gearbox.  Later, a turbo-bodied version called the RSR appeared, pushing out 300bhp thanks to a 3.8-litre engine.

The 964 Turbo didn’t appear until 1990 and used the 3.3-litre engine from the 930 but with tweaks to avoid turbo lag and add power. This all added up to 320bhp. The Turbo S of 1992 added a further 56bhp and lowered suspension, and a somewhat minimalist aesthetic to its interior.

In 1993 the Turbo started using the Carrera’s 3.6-litre engine, which yielded 360bhp. In 1994, the last remaining Turbo bodies were made available with ‘Flachbau’ slant-nose bodywork or normal bodies; these were sold as the Turbo 3.6S. A cabriolet version of the Turbo was made available in 1992.  A limited edition Speedster version appeared in 1989 and 1994. The 1989 car shares its underpinnings with the 930, but the 1994 car is based on the 964 Carrera and RSR

BRISTOL 411 & 412 REVIEW

Looking for a Bristol 411 or 412? We understand completely. 

Apologies for heading straight into a cliché, but a Bristol really is the archetypal ‘gentleman’s express’.  A car for the discerning motorist if you will.  And the models we’re covering here fit into that category very nicely indeed.  Stylishly understated on the outside, what goes on beneath the long bonnet is much the same, with performance that is subtle but effective thanks to the use of low-revving V8s, engines that imbue a Bristol with an impressively smooth shove in the back when the throttle is planted, while filling the cabin with a lovely burble.  Hooked up to the slick-shifting Torqueflite transmission, it all makes for a relaxing drivetrain that ideally suits the long-distance cruising credentials.  There’s also powerful, twin-servo brakes and hydraulic power assistance for the steering to round off the package, both of which contribute to the effortless feel of these distinctive cars.  The ride and handling impress too, a Bristol able to soak up bumps with little commotion reaching the occupants and all the time remaining impressively planted and roll-free when the going gets twisty.  But there’s even better news as all of this can be enjoyed from one of the finest cabins around, and it’s perhaps here more than anywhere where a Bristol’s hand-crafted, luxury feel really shines through.  The amply-sized front chairs are comfortable, and there’s enough room for two in the back, but it’s the richness of the materials that really boost the feel-good factor.  With most of the interior surfaces covered in leather, and the fascia and door cappings making use of nished wood, it’s a lovely place in which to be cocooned, and there’s a robustness to everything you touch that speaks of long-lasting quality.   The large, well-shaped boot means a Bristol is a practical way to enjoy luxury travel too.  And choosing a 412 means all of these attributes come with the added bonus of being able to enjoy fresh-air motoring as well.  At the end of the day though, any of these cars will provide a unique style of classic car ownership, and that’s certainly something to relish.
 

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine 6556cc, V8, OHV

Power 264bhp @ N/A

Torque 335lb/ft@N/A

Top Speed 140mph

0-60mph 7.4seconds

Economy 14-18mpg

Gearbox RWD/three-speed auto

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

The potential for serious – and therefore costly – corrosion is the most worrisome aspect of these cars, so a specialist inspection is vital.  The outer panels are aluminium, but fitted over a steel panel framework that can rot away unseen, and there is the obvious risk of galvanic corrosion between the two as well.  There are several layers of metal that can trap rot, and the extent of the problem isn’t always apparent until you start digging further, so you need to be absolutely certain of condition before parting with any money.

Depending on the model, some replacement panels are getting rare – if available at all - and the hand-built nature means used ones are unlikely to fit properly.  And having new ones made will be ferociously expensive.  Chrome trim strips and bumpers are pricey too, while sourcing items such as replacement light units for early cars can be difficult.

The steel chassis will also need careful checking for signs of rot, paying close attention to the legs and outriggers and the areas around the fuel tank and rear shock absorber mountings.  The rear uprights can corrode internally, so any sign of bulging in the metal is bad news.   And while underneath get a good look at the sill area as corrosion here could well have spread, with the potential for eye-watering repair costs.  Lastly, check inside the front wing compartments – the battery and brake servos are in the offside one, the spare wheel in the nearside – as failed seals will allow water ingress, leading to rotten floors.

ENGINE

There’s better news on the engine front, as the low-tech, Chrysler-sourced V8s – available in ious capacities and power outputs – are under-stressed, and pretty much bullet-proof with proper maintenance.  Regular oil and filter changes should see them exceed 200,000 miles with ease and it’s mainly a case of checking for general wear and tear.  Watch for leaks from the rear main oil seal, and ensure the cooling system is up to scratch with no signs of leaks or murky coolant.  Poor running can be caused by a carburetor in need of a rebuild – likely to be a Carter or Edelbrock item – but it’s a fairly straightforward fix.

RUNNING GEAR

The ‘Torqueflite’ automatic transmission is long-lasting too although it’s worth checking for oil dripping from the bell-housing which signifies tired torque converter seals.  Parts for the ‘box and for the engines are generally plentiful and not especially expensive, and there’s a good supply from the US.  Worn prop shaft joints will cause a vibration but any problems will be obvious on the road, as will any whines from the Salisbury rear axle.

Bristols are on the heavy side so it’s worth checking the condition of the brakes - although an overhaul is straightforward - while twin servos are fitted and brake fluid can leak into them, so check the level in the reservoir.  Sagging springs and worn bushes are likely to be the extent of any suspension problems although it’s worth examining the mountings for corrosion, and aside from general wear the hydraulically-assisted steering should be trouble-free.

INTERIOR

The interior is a real high point and the richness of the materials means the cost of complete renovation can easily exceed five figures.  Check the condition of leather and wood veneers carefully.  Completeness is also essential as some trim parts are scarce, and pay close attention to the electrics.  Old wiring can be a problem and not all circuits on the 411 were fused so make sure everything works as it should.  And if the wing compartment seals fail it can allow moisture to play havoc with the fusebox.  The convertible/targa roof arrangement of the 412 wasn’t as water-tight as it could have been so check for signs of water ingress and make sure the folding section and lift-out panel are undamaged.  The rollover hoop that supports the roof can also corrode and repairs are far from easy.

VERDICT

British craftsmanship and torquey V8 engines are an appealing combination but care is needed.  Complete restoration could swallow tens of thousands of pounds which is somewhat sobering, so an expert inspection is vital.  Buy well though and you’ll own a unique slice of luxury motoring, and once experienced the charm of a Bristol is very hard to resist.

Good 411 models are sought after and as the values here demonstrate, entry to this particular club isn’t cheap.  But the 412 and 603 are a little more affordable, with the best topping-out at around £40,000 and £30,000 respectively.  And both of these are underrated at present too, so prices probably have a way to climb yet.  Bristol values are rising generally so a good example should prove an investment, but think very hard before taking on a restoration project.

PORSCHE 911 996 REVIEW

By 1993 the Porsche 911 formula was well and truly tried and tested, so it came as no surprise that the brand new 911 993 looked very much like its predecessors. Though most elements were the same (rear-wheel drive, rear-mounted air-cooled flat six), there was also a great deal that was different. The bodywork was completely changed for a start. Though it looked like the 964 from a distance, trained eyes are drawn to the much fatter rear wheel arches, teardrop mirrors and the retractable rear wing, penned by Englishman Toni Hatter. The bumpers were also smoothed off, as was the style at the time. Despite the subtle external changes, the roof panels and doors were kept the same, showing the close similarity with earlier models.
The styling changes weren’t all for show though. The wider rear arches, aggressively cool as they were, were actually a requirement due to the new all-alloy subframe, complete with alloy suspension arms. This modification helped to increase high-speed stability, and the new suspension did much to address the 911’s tendency for oversteer – a well-noted problem on previous iterations of the model.
The changes went deeper still, with the 993 being the first production Porsche to be fitted with a 6-speed manual gearbox. A Tiptronic option was also available, the slick 4-speed transmission capable of smooth and quick shifts – definitely worth considering if you do a lot of driving in the city. Changes were also made to the optional 4-wheel drive system that was available with the 964. The new system did away with one of the three differentials, replacing it with a viscous coupling system that reduced weight and improved handling characteristics.
While the 911’s trademark flat-six engine stayed at the same capacity at the 964, its 3.6-litres now translated to 272bhp, largely due to an improved management system and better exhaust. However, the cream of the crop was the RS version. As with previous iterations, the engine was bored-out over the capacity of the standard model, this time to 3.8-litre. This was enough for Porsche to tease out 300bhp.
The most powerful production 911 of this era, however, was again the 911 Turbo, only this time it put out over 400bhp. Not only did it offer staggering performance, it was the first production Porsche to feature a twin-turbocharged engine, and was also the first 911 Turbo to be fitted with permanent four-wheel drive.
The 993 was a special car not only for its looks and performance, but for what it represented the end of an era. The 993 was to be the last air-cooled Porsche to ever be made, bringing to a close a chapter of motoring that is looked back on with great fondness for sports car fans. As the last ‘true’ 911, the 993 is valued strongly, with the Turbo version being top of the pile. A decent example will set you back upwards of £30,000, with the sky being the limit for especially low mileage examples. Though reliable, we would advise you to get a specialist to check over any potential purchase. Engine rebuild costs can be hugely expensive.

VITAL STATISTICS 
ENGINE 3600cc/6-cyl/DOHC
POWER 281bhp@6100rpm
TORQUE 252lb ft@5250rpm
TOP SPEED 171mph
0-60MPH 5.4secs
ECONOMY 24mpg
GEARBOX 6-speed manual

ROAD TEST
It's the brilliance of the steering that really defines this car. It didn't promise much initially, feeling distant and unresponsive at the off. But up the ante, and really drive this 993-generation Porsche 911, it wakes up, and you begin to feel at one with the car as it settles into its comfort zone. But then the 911 is a car of contrasts - and has been in each successive generation.
These mixed messages start with the interior. It's easy to be less than impressed at first acquaintance. The Spartan dashboard comprises an oval bank of instruments, a radio (in front of the passenger) and that's about it. The pedals feel offset towards the centre of the car - much like the steering wheel, and once you've adopted the necessary seating position, you wrestle with the vast turning circle, rubbery steering and those broad hips, which make placing it tough in tight spaces.
On the plus side, it's beautifully-trimmed, and while headroom is at a premium, there's plenty of wiggle-room for your elbows and ample legroom for the driver. But 911 veterans know that the urban grind is not for these cars; what you need is a winding A-road, is its natural hunting ground.
Point it at a flowing ribbon of tarmac, squeeze the throttle, and that rasping flat-six begins to sing. It's then you find that controls have been set-up perfectly for the driver in a hurry - almost as if Porsche had applied more than 30 years of development to get you down this road as quickly as possible.
It's not quite perfect, though. The floor-hinged throttle is lower than the brake, making heel-and-toe shifts near-impossible, save under hard braking. Otherwise it gels supremely well.
As familiarity mounts, you learn to confidently place it, inch-perfect, on the road. The lack of headroom feeling like a race helmet rather than a roof.
The oft-debated position of the engine, isn't as mad as some would have you believe. Having all that weight at the back means the nose is lighter, more delicate and easier to point. Treat it with respect and factor in some common sense, and the 993 is far from being a widow-maker.
Once you master the correct technique, and get the most from the 993, it comes together and truly begins to make sense. Any reservations simply melt away. And you begin to see the 911's seemingly glacial evolution for what it is: not a result of a lack of imagination, but a classic sports car that has undergone relentless improvements over the decades.
The 993 is, in short, the pinnacle of Porsche's air-cooled development. It's exciting, visceral and an all-time classic. In a very real sense, it could well be the greatest Porsche 911 of the lot. 
 
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
Produced from 1998 to 2005, the Porsche 911 996 carried on the 911 dynasty that started ruling in 1963 – but it did things slightly differently. 1998 marked the end of the air-cooled era, and the 996 was the first 911 to feature an engine that was liquid-cooled. Despite this change, continuity was the order of the day in other areas. Styling, in particular, stayed true to Porsche’s tried and tested formula – if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Subtle cues were added as a nod to modernity though, most notably the larger headlights. The oval headlamps of previous models had been a trademark of the brand since the 60s, but by the mid 90s were looking decidedly dated.
 
While it was outwardly very similar to previous 911s, the 996 was in fact the first 911 not to use any significant components from the previous model – largely due to the new water-cooled engine. Some things never change, though, and the car still had its engine at the back, and it was still a flat-six. In naturally aspirated guise it produced a handy 296bhp.
 
After two years of strong sales Porsche introduced the eagerly anticipated Turbo model, which, following the trend set by the 993, featured a twin-turbocharged engine – this time 3.6-litres. The performance figures were impressive 420bhp and a 0-60mph time of 4.2 seconds. If this wasn’t enough raw power there was even a ‘X50’ option that became available in 2002, using larger turbochargers and a revised management system it produced a whopping 450bhp. These cars are still highly prized among enthusiasts, though they share performance stats with the Turbo S, which arrived in 2005.
 
Far and away the most desirable models of the range are the fabled GT2 and GT3 variants – lightweight pseudo-racers based on the 996 platform. The GT2 was the most powerful version, offering a staggering 489bhp. All this power was channeled through the rear wheels, as the GT2 class of racing mandated rear-wheel drive only. It was light as well, being essentially a stripped-out Carrera 4S. Both GT2 and GT3 were offered with much stiffer suspension and no creature comforts in order to save weight. Six-speed manual transmissions were the order of the day; these were essentially race cars for the road, after all.