Jensen

JENSEN 541 REVIEW

The Jensen 541 was stylish and innovative. We uncover the appeal of this delightful British classic.

The first thing to strike you when you settle behind the 541’s wheel is the simplicity of the interior.  There are enough dials to keep you informed but everything is easily visible and switches are within easy reach. It’s comfortable too, and many owners are happy to cover substantial mileages without complaint.  The fact that it is hard wearing is an added bonus.

A properly sorted example should start easily and settle to a steady tickover, so be wary of a rough-running car. Out on the road, the torquey Austin lump makes for relaxed progress but the 541 was pretty rapid for its time, with a top speed of over 120mph in higher states of tune helped by the smooth bodywork.

You won’t keep up with a modern car on a twisty road but the Jensen is safe and surefooted, while those standard disc brakes inspire confidence. The simple and proven mechanicals mean the 541 may not have been at the cutting edge of technology but if you are looking for a British GT that can act as a sports car when required, it’s well worth considering.


VITAL STATISTICS

1954 JENSEN 541

Engine                                    3993cc/6-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  130bhp@3700rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 209lb ft@2200rpm

Top speed                                116mph

0-60mph                                  10.6sec

Consumption                            21mpg 


WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

The body is mostly GRP, but while rust isn’t an issue, it does need checking for signs of stress cracks, crazing, and bodged repairs. The door skins are aluminium and need checking for signs of bimetallic corrosion where they meet the steel door skin. Another area worth checking is the pivoting flap that acts as the radiator grille. This is a simple cable-operated affair controlled by a lever in the cabin, but you’ll want to ensure it moves freely since it manages engine cooling. 

Rot can set-in around the boot-mounted battery tray, and around the shackles for the rear leaf springs. Check the chassis tubes beneath the sills, and take a good look at the marine ply/aluminium sandwich floorpan which can harbour rot. It pays to spend plenty of time checking the chassis of a potential purchase though should it be too far gone, new chassis are available. That said, you’ll need to budget around £8000, so negotiate the asking price accordingly.

 

ENGINE

 

The 4.0-litre straight six Austin engine started out as a truck engine and is generally bullet-proof given proper maintenance. In fact, comfortably over 100,000 miles is often possible before major work is needed so quiz the previous owner about their maintenance regime. Cooling systems can weaken and blow the head gasket – check for oil or water leaks, or any signs that the two fluids are mixing. Oil leaks are an occasional problem but rarely serious. Standard ‘DS5’ engines had three SU carburettors, the ‘DS7’ unit fitted to ‘R’ models just two, though there is little to choose between them for longevity.

 

RUNNING GEAR

Manual gearboxes are either a four-speed Austin unit with overdrive, or a four-speed Moss. Each is fairly slow, but robust – any whines or rumbles means problems. The rarer GM automatic is tough, but will cost £2000 to recondition. Clutches and rear axles shouldn’t give any problems, but replacements are easy to source.

The front suspension uses lever-arm dampers and is derived from the Austin Cambridge, so parts availability is good. Likewise the rear leaf springs. There are plenty of greasing points that need regular attention so ensure this has been done. Stiffness in the steering (early cars used a cam and roller set-up, ‘R’ models rack and pinion) could mean the king pins haven’t received the required 1000-mile lubrication.

 

BRAKES

The 541 was the first British four-seater to use Dunlop disc brakes all round, and apart from a tendency among sparingly-used cars for the pistons to seize, shouldn’t give any trouble. Unusually, vacuum pressure for the Lockheed servo system was stored inside the left-hand chassis tube, so weak brakes could be a sign that rotten chassis tubing is allowing air to escape.  A ‘Coopercraft’ brake upgrade is a popular addition and further improves efficiency; consider it a bonus if this has already been done on a given car. 


INTERIOR

Interiors are simple, robust and trimmed in vinyl, leather, or a combination of the two.  There is little to watch for apart from normal wear and tear, but avoid any that are very tatty or incomplete. Items such as replacement switches are hard to come by and will mean a likely extensive and time-consuming hunt for second-hand parts. It will be cheaper in the long-run to find one in good condition to begin with than to restore a tired example


OUR VERDICT

When you consider the ingredients – a great British marque, a stylish yet robust four-seater sports car and a dash of innovation – it is hard to see why you wouldn’t want a Jensen 541.

With an incredibly thick GRP body, simple steel tube chassis and proven mechanicals, the 541 is a reliable and comfortable classic car. Resisting the temptation to make a complex car with specialist underpinnings, Jensen created a car that, almost 50 years on, still doesn’t break the bank.

Like any British classic of the period, there are things to consider before taking the plunge, but there are fewer pitfalls than you might expect of a car of this vintage.  Which makes it a very tempting ownership proposition. The thriving JensenOwners Club and plenty of specialist support available seals the deal as far as the lovely 541 is concerned.  If it is a Jensen you want but are put off by the complexity and thirst of the Interceptor, the quintessentially British 541 is well worth a closer look.

A 541, well-sorted, makes a glamourous and reliable car. There are areas that need careful checking, but while a substantial restoration isn’t too scary a prospect, you shouldn’t spend too much on an example that needs fettling. Buy the best you can find and enjoy that film-star feeling.

JENSEN CV8 REVIEW

Launched in 1962, the C-V8 was a ‘shock and awe’ makeover of the 541, featuring more than 300bhp of American muscle and slightly gaudy looks. A beefier chassis for 1963’s MkII boasted Selectaride dampers, while equal-sized headlamps and a walnut dashboard identify the MkIII of 1965/6. Only 499 C-V8s were built and values have struggled until recently.

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

Glassfibre bodywork should be reassuring, but be very wary. Underneath the rust-free outer skin there’s a beefy tubular chassis and
a lot of steel beneath the scuttle. The sills, hidden behind the glassfibre, are prone to corrosion too. Repairs are best done with the body removed. The floor is steel, so it’s very important to check it thoroughly, including both front and rear footwells. Watch out for cracks, starbursts and any clumsily applied filler trying to mask an issue. Glassfibre isn’t too bad to work with if you know what you are doing. Door skins are aluminium, so check for paint peeling and oxidisation. Stainless steel bumpers are available for the MkI and MkII, but not for the MkIII currently. Trim is hard to find.

ENGINE & GEARBOX

The tough Chrysler V8 should be OK, but rebuilds can get expensive and questionable modifications are a worry. None of them is in the first flush of youth, so watch for blue exhaust smoke, tappety top ends and bottom-end knocks. They can run hot, and watch for bowed and leaking thermostat housings. Don’t be surprised if an electric fan has been installed, though it shouldn’t try to run all the time. These days, original numbers are desirable. Check Richard Calver’s book Jensen: the chassis data to see what each car should have. Listen out for exhaust leaks, especially manifolds. Chrysler’s Torqueflite transmission should be smooth and jolt-free. A handful of MkIII manuals were built, but some manual conversions have since taken place. Listen out for excessive rear axle noise – they give fair warning that a rebuild is due. 

RUNNING GEAR

The Dunlop disc brakes have a lot of performance to rein in, so make sure that they’re up to the job. Pulling to one side could indicate a seized caliper, but rebuild parts are readily available. Power steering was never fitted from new, but many have been retrofitted more recently. Wheels can shatter, so keep an eye for stress cracks, and get them crack-tested between tyre changes. 

INTERIOR AND ELECTRICS

If you need to overhaul it, refurbing the plush interior can rapidly overtake how much it costs to fuel it and can also be a tricky space in which to work. Water ingress needs to be watched for as it’ll soon rot stitching, carpets and floors if not kept at bay. Electrics tend to be reliable, so a quick operational check is all that’s required. Electrics suffer less than most GRP cars’ poor earthing. MkI has a handle on the bonnet, and MkIII can be easily identified by its equal-sized headlamps. The remainder with unequal lamps and a flap on the bonnet are MkIIs.

 

OUR VERDICT
If you are a fan of raw power, the unfussy manner in which this beefy V8 propels you down the road will have you handing over the readies in no time. Yes, it’s rather thirsty, but try finding a 1960s sports car that isn’t. A healthy C-V8 beats the performance levels of an E-type, seats four comfortably, and is far more exclusive!

JENSEN INTERCEPTOR FF 4-WHEEL DRIVE REVIEW

Launched in London at the 1966 Motor Show, the Jensen Interceptor marked a significant change in styling from previous models, with coachwork designed by Vignale in Italy. Continuing to be hand-built, the bodywork was now in steel, with a large parallel-tube chassis, using a live leaf-sprung rear axle and Panhard rod, all-round disc brakes and independent wishbone and coil sprung front suspension. This high performance coupe had around 280bhp (DIN) on tap from Chrysler's 6276cc V8, with their Torqueflite automatic transmission as standard equipment for the Interceptor model. Any sixties car achieving 100mph in under 20 seconds was regarded as a performance car, The Motor recording the Interceptor's top speed at 140mph, with 100mph coming up in just 19 seconds. The prestigious 'FF' was nearly 50% more expensive than the standard Jensen Interceptor, and is identified by the twin side grilles on the front wings. Available only with automatic transmission, the 'FF' featured the 'Ferguson Formula' four wheel drive system, and included the revolutionary Dunlop 'Maxeret' anti-skid braking system, which combined to produce a supercar over ten years ahead of its time.

JENSEN INTERCEPTOR REVIEW

Quality. Class. Style. We discover the advantages of bagging the desirable and glamorous hand-made Jensen Interceptor...

Sit at the wheel of a MkI and you can’t help but be struck by how Italian the interior of the Interceptor is. There is a jet-set feel to the whole thing thanks to the toggle switches and rows of dials and circular air vents. In fact, it feels more like an aircraft than a car.

As beautiful as it is the MkI’s interior is also hard wearing thanks to the vinyl covering the GRP dashboard and transmission tunnel. MkIIs and IIIs changed to a less glamorous moulding, though it is apparently safer. 

An Interceptor should bark into life, from cold, after a twist of the key and one prod of the throttle. If it doesn’t start easily, leave that car alone. Once moving you’ll be blown away by the addictive noise and colossal ability of this mid-1960s GT: imagine a 0-60 time of 6-7 seconds in a car from the late 1960s or early 1970s, when most traffic couldn’t crack the ton. These Jensens are just getting into their stride at the legal limit, so you have to watch your driving licence as well as the fuel gauge. 


VITAL STATISTICS

JENSEN INTERCEPTOR - MKII

Engine                                    6286cc/v8/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  325bhp@4600rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 425lb ft@2800rpm

Top speed                                137mph

0-60mph                                  6.4sec

Consumption                            13mpg


WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Rust can be a major issue. It is at its most virulent around the edges of the front wings, sills, on the wheels and around the side vents behind the front wheels. Also carefully check the inner rear and front wings. Bonnets can go along their edges and doors are vulnerable all along the bottom of the frame. If there is fresh paintwork carefully inspect the quality of metalwork repairs or ask to see a photographic record of the resto work.

ENGINE

The Interceptor’s Chrysler engine produces extremely high temperatures which can be made worse by poor engine-bay ventilation. This excess heat can perish tubes and pipes. Pay particularly careful attention to electrical wiring which tends to suffer the most in the Interceptor’s inhospitable engine bay. Standard fans are just about up to the cooling job, but only if they are in good nick. 

Be on the lookout for signs of general engine wear, and check the condition of the oil feed pipes between the engine and the filter which may have been strained by engine movement. On start-up listen for rattling bearings and hydraulic lifter noise which could indicate that the engine is in need of some attention.

RUNNING GEAR

The Chrysler Torqueflite automatic gearbox was effortless and highly rated in its day. It’s also tough so even now it isn’t the cause of too many Interceptorissues. That said it is still worth checking as a rebuild will set you back about £1200. 

Oil leaks are fairly common and shouldn’t be a major issue if addressed. General maintenance consists of changing the oil and filter, plus adjusting the clutch bands. If this has been done regularly the gearbox should run smoothly and remain trouble-free. 

If the car has been used sparingly condensation can form in the gearbox which causes brake bands to separate from backings and will eventually lead to loss of drive when the car is pressed. Check the colour of the gear oil – it should be clear red, not pink or burned dark. Check the stall speed as part of your buying inspection – the engine should sit at 1800-2000rpm.

 

BRAKES

Disc corrosion is a problem with cars that don’t see much use – check for dark spots on the surface of the discs which are a sign that brake efficiency is on the wane. Twin-master cylinders can sometimes have fluid-balance problems and you’ll want to make sure the fluid’s been changed regularly.

The weight of the V8 engine can causefront suspension wear. Bushes, springs and pivots can deteriorate and rear springs can sag, but the suspension is easy to work on, save for the weight of the hefty components. Parts can be sourced new, or used through members of the Jensen Owners Club.


INTERIOR

A tatty Interceptor interior won’t be cheap to refurbish. The seats wear well, but should they need remedial work a high quality repair job could set you back £1000, while a complete new interior could cost up to £5000. Carpets are relatively cheap. 


OUR VERDICT

Who wouldn’t want a Jensen Interceptor? It’s the best-value glam GT car, it’s hand built and it’s rare. Your friends and family will love its exclusivity and the Jensen Owners Club is one of the friendliest around. Better still the power steering and auto gearbox make an Interceptor usable as a daily driver. 

The engineering is simple which means only the most complicated jobs need placing with a specialist. It’s also worth considering how, if you’d bought one five years ago, you’d stand to have turned a profit during your ownership, helping offset the thirst for fuel. And it’s that fuel consumption question that might stop you owning an Interceptor. 

The flipside? Shattering performance, although the choice between a Sunday drive in the Jensen, or using a more frugal car and actually having money left for a good lunch is a tough one. 

Most telling? In period, the Jensen workers knew they were making a more stylish competitor car to compete against the Rolls-Royce Silver Shadow.

The Interceptor is a luxury powerhouse that is quiet and comfortable in normal driving conditions. Combine this with classic styling and an elegant interior and the Interceptor is a great buy. As ever the real trick is to find a good one.

Beware cheap bargain-basement Interceptors that need work. A restoration will likely cost you more money than simply buying a good one in the first place.

If you plan on using this comfortable cruiser to cover any sort of serious mileage the fuel costs will be astronomical. Use a nice one sparingly and you’ll have a genuine handmade classic with star appeal and the potential of rewarding diligent ownership with continually rising values.

JENSEN-HEALEY REVIEW

It has good looks and strong performance but what is it like to buy?

The first thing you notice as you slide behind the wheel is the space and comfort on offer in the Healey’s cabin. For a car whose cabin is often referred to as austere, the dash is acutally well-stocked with dials and all the minor controls are within easy reach. The driving position is sound, too, with a good relationship between the major controls. 

On the move, the punchy Lotus-developed twin cam engine musters considerable performance; you’re unlikely to find yourself wanting for pace. It’s no shrinking violet, either – this car is properly loud when you put the hammer down – and the gearchange is beautifully snick-snick.

The handling – immediate and nippy – is not unlike that of an MGB. Firmer, perhaps, and the car feels bigger around you, but there’s no doubt that this is a sports car, not least when you discover just how low down in the car you really sit.

The intake rasp from the twin-carb ‘four’ adds to the character when you give the engine a few revs, something you’ll be more than happy to do given its characterful nature. 

The unassisted steering lightens up nicely once you’re rolling, the brakes are more than up to the performance, and the ride is such that it’s as able a grand tourer as it is a feisty B-road blaster. It’s rigid and rattle-free – or at least should be – so keep that in mind when assessing a prospective purchase.

And of course, the Jensen-Healey is all about the fresh-air, hood-down experience. The packaway hood is slightly more complex to take down than some (but it’s no worse than an early MGB Roadster) and while the engine likes to remind you what’s going on when you’re pressing on, flicking in the overdrive soon quietens things down. In fact, the cabin is a suprisingly quiet, buffetting-free place to be, roof-down.

Thank Donald Healey; this is a proper British sports car offering plenty of creature comforts for longer drives, but lots of character and engaging performance when you’re in the mood.


VITAL STATISTICS

1974 JENSEN-HEALEY

Engine                                    1973cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  144bhp@6500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 134lb ft@5000rpm

Top speed                                119mph

0-60mph                                  7.8sec

Consumption                            23mpg

Gearbox                                    4/5-spd manual


WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

You need to be vigilant when inspecting a Healey, as rot can strike just about anywhere within the steel monocoque. At particular risk are the sills, which rot from the inside out and replacing them requires removal of both front and rear wings, so it won’t be a cheap job. The wings themselves rot too, so check at the bottom where they meet the sill, the mounting points and around the headlamps at the front, and check the rear wings from inside the boot as rust often starts here. 

The usual problem areas such as doors, wheel arches, and bonnet/boot lid will also need careful examination – as will the floors – and pay special attention to the front chassis legs. These can be tricky to repair and the engine and gearbox may need to come out if things are particularly bad. Eradicating all traces of corrosion from a Healey will be time-consuming and expensive while some panels – such as replacement bonnets – are getting hard to find.

ENGINE

The Lotus-derived twin cam engine might be characterful, but Mark 1 models gained a reputation for trouble. Oil leaks were a particular issue (cam cover leaks are almost impossible to cure, even now) and Mark 2 models from 1973 got a stiffer block casting to alleviate the problem. Neglecting the all-alloy unit will cause the most problems so look for a detailed maintenance record, and be alert for any signs of overheating or coolant loss. Regular cambelt changes are absolutely critical too.

Twin Dellorto carburettors take care of the fuelling and throttle response should be excellent, so check for any flat spots or hesitation during the road-test. The carbs could be in need of a re-build or just need setting up properly, neither of which are especially costly. Rumbling from the bottom end of the engine signifies an imminent rebuild – and bigger bills – and you can expect 80-100,00 miles from a well-maintained engine before an overhaul is needed.

RUNNING GEAR

The four-speed manual gearbox (a Sunbeam unit, also used in the Rapier) fitted to earlier cars was considered a bit weak for the power on offer, so check for excessive noise and jumping out of gear. A stronger Getrag five-speeder was offered towards the end of 1974 (and not as part of the 1973 update, as many think). Mark 2 models could be four- or five-speed, although only around 180 right-hand cars were equipped with the latter. The Salisbury rear axle is strong, but expect a bit of noise – though it rarely leads to failure – while driveline vibrations are likely to be caused by nothing more sinister than worn propshaft joints.

BRAKES

Vauxhall Viva HC steering and suspension components are used and neither should prove troublesome if regularly fettled. General wear such as tired bushes and worn dampers are issues and watch for corroded rear lower trailing arms. Many parts are available for overhaul. The disc/drum brake set-up is reliable, but it’s worth checking for seized adjusters at the rear on little-used examples. Examine the alloy wheels for signs of damage or excessive corrosion as well – budget upwards of £70 per corner for quality refurbishment.


INTERIOR

Some interior trim parts are getting scarce, and while re-trimmers can sort tired seats or carpets, it’s worth avoiding anything too decrepit. Watch for signs of water leaks that might have allowed rust to take hold, and check the condition of the hood, as a good quality replacement is likely to be pricey.


OUR VERDICT

In a word: Cool. In two words: Sub Zero. In three words: You need one. 

The Jensen-Healey may be a rare beast, but just like the best steaks, rare is the way you want a sports car.