CITROËN 2CV REVIEW

Loved and loathed in equal measure, but prices for the venerable Citroen 2CV 'tin snail' are nevertheless in the ascendancy.

At nearly 3.9 million cars sold, the 2CV may not be quite the mega-seller it’s often made out to be, but it’s still pretty ubiquitous. Ubiquity doesn’t always translate into lowly prices, though – values solidified shortly after its demise in 1990 and prices of good ones have been increasing steadily ever since.

You certainly don’t buy one for an electrifying driving experience, but as a practical, good value and well-known starter classic, it has few peers.

Here’s how to buy the best.

VITAL STATISTICS

Citroën 2CV

Engine                                    602cc/2-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  29bhp@5750rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 30.5lb ft@3500rpm

Top speed                                71mph

0-60mph                                  32.7sec 

Consumption                           45.9mpg  

Gearbox                                   4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

This was a cheap car built from average steel with negligible factory rust-proofing and no real intention of it lasting much more than a few years, so it’s hardly surprising that these cars can – and do – rust with the best of them.

Thankfully, parts back-up is exceptional for all models bar the earliest corrugated panel examples, and major items such as the doors, bootlid, bonnet and wings are easily replaced.

More serious rust develops in the floor, front and rear bulkheads, around the windscreen and at the base of the A-, B- and C-pillars. The seam above the rear wings is a further common rot-spot.

Don’t dismiss uneven panel gaps as a minor problem, either, since this can be indicative of a terminally corroded frame beneath a superficially tidy body. Wherever possible, it’s always a good idea to get a good look at a prospective purchase’s underside – ideally on a service ramp.

ENGINE

Unless you’ve set your heart on a very early car (or enjoy driving everywhere at walking pace), it’s usually best to stick to the later (1968-on) 602cc models, which develop a dizzying 33bhp (29bhp after 1979).

Whichever engine you opt for, however, you’ll be looking at knife-and-fork mechanics, so trouble-shooting should be straightforward. Keep a weather eye out for the usual issues when starting from cold – reluctance to start, lumpy idling, blue or black exhaust smoke – and be sure to take it out on a test-drive. A persistent misfire can usually be traced back to an electrical problem – check plugs, leads, dynamo, contact breaker points, coil wire, etc. – but could also indicate low compression, and therefore an engine in need of imminent work.

These engines are notorious for oil leaks, not least around the front and rear of the block, often as a result of perished crankshaft seals. Being air-cooled, too, the cooling system needs to be up to scratch, so cars fitted with an electric fan are desirable.

RUNNING GEAR

All 2CVs are almost absurdly softly sprung, so consider this a characteristic rather than a fault. Excessive wandering can sometimes be down to badly corroded suspension mounting points or badly balanced wheels – either will drastically increase tyre wear, too – an obvious clue.

The brakes are unstressed, but will judder and cause the car to pull to one side if in need of replacement. Tread carefully if the rear brakes require attention, as this is a job is straightforward only if you have access to specialist tools.

Cars fitted with disc brakes – usually post-’82 – must only ever use LHM (liquide hydraulique minerale). Filling a disc-brake car with the more common DOT brake fluid accelerates O-ring/seal deterioration, and can finish the calipers and brake master cylinder off completely. Similarly, earlier models should only ever be filled with DOT fluid.

Be suspicious if the clutch adjustment screw on the bellhousing is nearing the end of its reach – it’s probably ripe for replacement. The gearbox itself is relatively simple, but look out for crunching on second and third gear, indicating worn synchromesh.

You’ll be lucky to find a car sporting a chassis hasn’t been either repaired or replaced. A new complete chassis can be had for around £700.

INTERIOR

Upholstery refurb kits are available for less than £200, with new hoods going for around £250. The hood requires close examination as older examples can allow water ingress, with an inevitable adverse effect on the seats and carpets. Check also for perished door and window rubbers.

Instrumentation is basic on all models and can be refurbished by independent specialists at minimal cost. Other switchgear is still obtainable from specialist breakers, but parts for very early cars are virtually non-existent now.

OUR VERDICT

Few cars this side of a VW Beetle have as much character as a 2CV, and if you’re looking to buy into a relaxed lifestyle, rather than invest in something to use on trans-continental tours, then the tin snail is hard to beat. Mechnically straightforward and blessed with terrific parts back-up, the charming 2CV – and the later 602cc cars in particular – are fun to drive and surprisingly practical. You can run one on a relatively shoestring budget, too.

CITROËN CX REVIEW

Technological showpiece, style legend: or both? Manufactured from 1974 to 1991, the Citroën CX is widely regarded among enthusiasts as being the last of the true Citroëns, as it was the last car designed before the firm was taken over by Peugeot.

The initials CX refer to the French initials for coefficient of drag, a hint at the huge aerodynamic leap the car had taken over its predecessors and competitors. In addition to the sleek new shape, the CX featured technological advancements that made it one of the most exciting cars of the era including hydro-pneumatic self-leveling suspension, speed-adjustable power steering and sub frame mounted suspension to reduce road noise. The suspension setup on the CX was derived from the DS and went on to be used successfully by Rolls-Royce on the Silver Shadow and Silver Spirit cars. 

VITAL STATISTICS

CITROËN CX

Engine                                    2347cc/8V/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  115bhp@5500rpm 

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 137ft lb@2750rpm

Top speed                                108mph

0-60mph                                  12.4sec

Consumption                           20mpg

Gearbox                                    5-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Early CXs will be more prone to rust than later models, decent rust proofing and higher quality paint was only added in 1980. Check the boot floor for damp, lift any carpets and give it a firm poke. If there is any rust or crustiness, walk away. Feel inside each of the arches for loose rust. Dirt collects easily and the arches will rust from the inside out. Check the bottom of each door, drain holes frequently clog and they tend to go here first. Look for bubbling at the corners of the sunroof; it is a good indication that the roof skin will be rotten.

ENGINE

Check that the service history is comprehensive and that there are no gaps. Providing the car has been well serviced, the engine should outlast the body. Check there is no clutch slip, particularly on manual and turbo versions, where the engine needs to be removed to replace the clutch. 2.5-litre petrol injection engines are prone to flywheel ignition sensor failure. If the rev counter doesn’t move on startup or the car struggles to start when hot, assume it needs to be replaced. Check that coolant has been used and not water, and ensure that there is no oil present. Look for ‘mayonnaise’ around the oil filler cap, walk away if there is any trace.

RUNNING GEAR

Complex hydraulic system can hide a myriad of problems. Check the hydraulic fluid, it should be mineral based and light green in colour. If it is red or brown walk away, it is probably contaminated with Dextron II, which will damage the system. Fire the car up and push down on each corner, there should be a good amount of give. If it feels very firm the shocks may need replacing. Hydraulic pumps can be a weakness. Allow the car to idle and check that the pump activates every 30 seconds or so. If it runs continuously or with more regularity it may suggest a leak in the system. Speed adjustable power steering is fairly reliable, but make sure you take a test drive through a variety of conditions. Check it doesn’t pull to the side under hard braking, CXs are notorious for high levels of front brake wear. Check the jacking points to make sure they’re solid.  

Check rear suspension mounts for rust, and feel under the rubber trim on the lower windscreen surround. If there’s any rust avoid the car.

INTERIOR

Dashboard lights tend to have a mind of their own, but make sure you check them when the car is running. 

It may be gremlins, but assume any warning lights are correct and take heed. Be especially wary of electrical problems in later cars with ABS, they have complex computer systems and problems can be expensive to track down. 

OUR VERDICT

The Citroën CX is to many enthusiasts the last ‘proper’ Citroën. Design is very of its time, and exceptionally modern looking for what is now an aging classic. 

As a statement of style you would be hard pressed to find something more unusual – very much in the Citroën and Saab vein – which now seems to have gone out of fashion. 

The ride is famously smooth, engines reliable, and interiors spacious and comfortable. On top of all this, it seems to be following in the footsteps of the DS and holding its value much better than similar cars of the period.

 If DS values are any indicator, it seems to be one to watch. If you have a minter we suggest you hold onto it, it’s sure to rise in value in the future. 

CITROËN DS REVIEW

Nobody had ever seen anything quite like the Citroen DS when it was announced in 1955. The shape was futuristic and aerodynamic, and a complex hydraulic system operated the self-levelling suspension, brakes, steering and semi-automatic gearshift.

With unstressed bolt-on panels, front-wheel drive and inboard disc brakes, the car was technologically light years ahead of its contemporaries. Roadholding was exceptional for the time, too. All this technology did not make the car fragile: the DS went on to become a successful rally machine in later years, and it still stands out as one of the most advanced and interesting cars of the 20th century.

Two problems affected the early cars: the DS19 (with 1911cc four-cylinder engine from the Traction Avant) was underpowered and rather expensive. Undeterred, Citroen introduced the ID19 in 1958, 25% cheaper and lacking the hydraulics for the steering and gearbox. This sold much better. A cavernous Safari estate was added in 1960, and from 1961 Chapron did a delicious "factory" convertible. Power went from 69bhp to 75bhp in 1961, too.

The DS was built at Slough for the UK market from 1956, with a few special features – leather seats, a wooden dash and Lucas electrics (the latter to 1962 only). Just over 8000 cars were built here before the end of 1964; Paris-built cars were finished at Slough during 1965 and then after April 1966 the cars were imported fully-built from Paris or, in some cases, the Brussels factory. The DS19 went to 1985cc (and became a DS20 from September 1969) and there was a new DS21 with 2175cc engine.  Unique to the UK was the 1964-1965 DW – with DS spec but a conventional gearbox.

From 1967, the original frog’s-eye headlamps gave way to quad lamps behind glass, and these swivelled with the steering to light the way round corners. For the 1970 model-year, a more powerful DS21 EFI (with Bosch injection) became available, and a year later there were new Borg Warner automatic and five-speed manual gearboxes. The last increase in engine size was to 2347cc in 1973, creating DS23 and DS23 EFI, the latter with 141bhp.

VITAL STATISTICS

DS21

Engine 2175cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power 106bhp@5500rpm

Torque 123lb ft@3500rpm

Top speed 110mph

0-60mph 12.5sec

Economy 25mpg

Gearbox 5-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

Check as much of the steel skeleton inner shell as you can, such as the side rails against which the doors shut. Bubbles spell more trouble underneath. Get underneath to check the main underfloor box-sections, which rot through because of inadequate drainage, and be warned that underseal often masks problems until it’s too late. Then check the upper surfaces by lifting up the sill trim and the carpets. Back wings can be checked from inside the boot and look for holes in the boot floor too. The bootlid too also traps water inside, thanks to its sponge-like seal. You can always take off the rear wings – they’re held on by one bolt – to have a more thorough check beneath. Then check the metal around the rear suspension sphere mounts. Repairs here can be tricky, time-consuming and expensive.

Check the sills, at either end, or bulging anywhere along the length. Outer panels themselves are quite expensive now, so do check them for corrosion. Front wings go around their bottom rear corners as well as the wheelarches, and the 1968 on cars often have problems around the headlamps. Rear outer wings go around their top and bottom edges. Bonnets are aluminium while roofs on the saloons – but not Safaris or Breaks – are glassfibre. However, water does get underneath.

ENGINE

The engines are all four-cylinder types with simple OHV architecture. They last very well, even though lacklustre performance persuades some owners to thrash them. Replacing the timing chain means taking the engine out, because it's at the back of the block, so ask whether it's been done! If you do need to take the engine out, take the opportunity to do another couple of jobs. One is replacing the clutch plate – an engine-out job on its own. The other is to check and overhaul the inboard front brakes, which are much easier to work on with the engine out of the way.

DS engines hail from the Traction Avant. Cracks in the alloy cylinder head can be common, thanks to poor quality or low anti-freeze. Oil filters need to be fitted properly – the triangle symbol on the casing should line up with the equivalent icon on the sump – otherwise the engine can seize. Check for head gasket problems, often caused by cylinder wet liners sinking into the block. Camshaft seals can leak oil and tappets get noisy and are often left. Thanks to Bosch making the fuel injection system on the EFi cars, it is usually quite reliable, although the flexible fuel pipes can crack and leak.

RUNNING GEAR

With the hydraulic suspension, corroded pipework is really the major issue, so look underneath for signs of coloured fluid escaping. Putting the car suspension up to high will make this easier. Pay attention to the nearside rear wheelarch area and the rear gaiters for leaks. Suspension spheres need recharging periodically, but replacement is not that tricky. Listen to how often the pump clicks; every 20 seconds or so is the norm. On the conventional parts of the suspension, driveshaft joints can wear out – there will be a knocking on full lock – and balljoints need to have been regularly greased to stop them seizing. Clunks from the rear signal rear suspension pushrod wear. Earlier cars have semi-automatic hydraulically-assisted gearboxes and if they go wrong, changes will be difficult. It takes an expert to set them up properly. On the later cars, a whine in fifth gear points to a new differential; replacement is a very involved task. Test the brakes for their efficiency; they should be very, very sharp. The front ones are inboard, and pads can take many hours to change.

Tyres for the DS can be expensive, so check them all carefully – the spare as well. Michelins were always the original fitment (Michelin owned Citroën) but the correct size and type for later cars – 185 x 15 XVS with asymmetric tread – are not always easy to find. Some owners have fitted cheap van tyres as a quick fix. Note that the rear track of a DS was always narrower than the front, to aid handling, so don't assume the wrong tyres have been fitted! In fact, on pre-1970 cars, different tyre sizes were used front and rear, too: metric 165 x 400 at the front and 155 x 400 at the rear.

VERDICT

To be honest, you probably shouldn’t go for a Citroen DS if you’re more at home with conventional engineering. To appreciate the DS, you also have to appreciate a novel approach to automotive design and, seeing as this is a Citroen, also a somewhat stubborn desire to make things quirky just for the hell of it. There’s no denying that these Citroens take more looking after than most classics, and their iconic European status is now being reflected in rising prices. But the rewards are considerable; a driving experience so smooth that it’s like being on a magic carpet, blended with enough eccentricities to keep you constantly amused and bemused.

If you plan to use the car a lot, go for a late DS23 EFI, with five-speed or automatic transmission. But if it's the technological oddities that interest you, try an early car. All models have the full-power hydraulic brakes, but ID models and the 1964-1965 DW have a conventional gearbox and clutch.

CITROËN 2CV REVIEW

The cheapest James Bond classic is also the quirkiest. We look at how to buy a Deux Chevaux...

Having been initially launched in 1948, into the austerity of post-war Europe, the 2CV was overhauled in 1970. The new 435cc 2CV4 and 602cc 2CV6 had circular front indicators and bigger combination lamps at the rear. From 1972, luxuries such as three-point seatbelts were introduced and in 1974 rectangular headlamps were fitted. This year also marked reintroduction to the UK market, with right-hand drive 2CVs constructed in Belgium. Special editions included the SPOT, 007 and Charleston.

VITAL STATISTICS

Citroen 2CV6 

Engine                                    602cc/2-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  29bhp@5750rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 29lb ft@3000rpm

Top speed                                70mph

0-60mph                                  28sec

Consumption                            45mpg

Gearbox                                    4-spd manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

1970s 2CVs resist corrosion better than later ones. It’s not unusual to find one on its original chassis, although a galvanised chassis is still a boon. Rot can creep in pretty much anywhere, so it’s good to know that almost every section of body is available to buy new. Replacing the windscreen section is tricky, while the same is true of the sweeps above the rear wings. Inspect around the fixed side window and above inner rear wings. Check the boot floor and the box below the rear seat. Front wings can be awkward as new ones don’t always fit well. Floors, sills and the pillars all need careful inspection. Check the chassis above and below – look for seams blowing out and thump the underside. If it rattles, that’s rot! Chassis are available from £595 but budget on £2000 for a specialist fitting. Expect to pay around £140 for a brand new roof.

ENGINE

All UK market cars were 602cc, with a twin-choke carburettor right at the end of production. It’s a tough engine but watch for oil leaks and blue exhaust smoke. Regular oil changes are essential (every 3000 miles). The gearbox is hardy, if noisy. There’s no synchro’ on first, while third can get crunchy with wear. A 2CV4 will have been imported and may well have been upgraded to 602cc.

ELECTRICS

Electrics are generally 12v and reliable. There’s very little to go wrong. Voltage regulators can fail, so keep your eye on the voltmeter. Square headlamp reflectors and RHD lenses are hard to find, so check condition.

RUNNING GEAR

Fluid for drum and disc brake cars is not compatible. Drum brake cars use DOT4, disc, LHM. Drums still stop the cars well if adjusted correctly and the handbrake is often very good. Worn kingpins can be a problem and MoT testers get fussy about play – there will always be a little. Wear strikes the track rod ends and steering rack, so budget £200 for overhaul. Suspension rods are attached to the arms by triangular ‘knife edges’, which need regular greasing.

INTERIOR

Seats sag, cloth disintegrates but vinyl is hardy. Water ingress is likely, so lift rubber mats to check the floors.  

OUR VERDICT

The 2CV is huge fun but drum brake cars – or ‘drummers’ – are now quite rare. It took a while for sales to get going, although quite a few have since been imported. Classics don’t get much easier to work on, although they can feel strange to get your head around at first. The club is very supportive with its own parts scheme and a huge social scene. Neither of these models is as charming as early 2CVs or practical as later ones, but ‘drummers’ have a unique niche appeal.

CITROËN TRACTION AVANT REVIEW

It’s easy to forget how revolutionary the Citroën Traction-Avant was when it was first launched. As impressive is that fact it was still ahead of the game when production ceased in 1957. 

You sit behind an enormous steering wheel. The engine (1911cc at least) is pretty responsive for the era and motorway speeds are possible, if noisy. The gearbox is a touch agricultural, and controlled by a handle that sort of flops out of the dashboard. It’s easy enough to get used to and once in top, there’s little reason to change down again.
It’s the handling of this stylish machine that really surprises though. The steering is wonderfully direct and accurate, but is heavy, even on the ‘Light’ models. The brakes are ok for their age, but need some respect. You need to bear this in mind because it’s very easy to push on a bit. The soft ride just adds to the pleasure. 

Sluggish, antiquated and skittish – none of these things characterise the Traction Avant. Despite its ‘30s design, the road behaviour of the front-wheel drive Citroëns belies their years. With a wheel at each corner, a relatively low centre of gravity, and with the front wheels doing the pulling, these cars feel sure-footed enough to be thrown into corners with drama.

Despite the curved dashboard-mounted gearlever, navigating the three-speed gearbox is an easy affair. Positive rack-and-pinion steering ensure that much of the vagueness associated with older steering boxes just isn’t there. Four-cylinder versions rely upon torque, rather than mind-blowing power, and low gearing is set up for a different age. However, this makes them all the easier to drive, and – especially with the biggest 1911cc powerplant – more than capable of clambering up any hill.

The six-cylinder models improved upon the performance of the four-cylinder cars, and it is these which make the lightest work of modern-day traffic. All models are strong performers, however, and although classic they are capable of everyday use. 

VITAL STATISTICS

Légère/Light 15

Engine                                    1911cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  56bhp@4250rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 140lb ft@ 3900rpm

Top speed                                107mph

0-60mph                                  12.8sec

Consumption                            19mpg 

Gearbox                                    3-speed manual
 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Rust is the main enemy of the monocoque. The first place to check is the sills, which are open-ended, encouraging corrosion. The rear suspension legs mount onto the rear of the inner sills – any rot here can cause dangerous rear axle movement. Beware of patch repairs. The ‘Jambonneaux,’ or front sill extensions forward of the bulkhead, should be inspected for bubbling or holes. Stress cracks on the floor at the back of the engine bay are simply a fact of life for Traction owners. However, ripples in the bulkhead above the side arms point to front-end accident damage.

Floor-pans are susceptible to rotting, which can be exacerbated by blocked sunroof drainage holes on Slough-built cars. The scuttle vents rot, allowing water in. Long-wheelbase cars flex much more than the short-wheelbase cars – dimples in the panels between the rear door and rear wheel are a sure sign of this.

Door gaps need to be even on all four doors – if this is not the case, it could be that the doors have dropped, or due to accident damage. Rusting roof gutters can force doors downwards. Bottom edges of doors and boot-lids can rot, as can the boot floor if drain holes become blocked.

The tail end of those elaborate, swooping front wings are mud traps, thanks to aluminium trim hiding rot. The rear wing stone-guards can also hide rust. Corrosion often takes hold in the seams between the bodywork and wings – watch out for bubbling paint and rust streaks.

ENGINE

Four-cylinder engines are sturdy, utilising wet-liner construction, although the oil must have been changed every 1000 miles to ensure longevity. Timing chain rattle is nothing to worry about, as no tensioner was fitted from new. Piston rings can fail on engines that have been laid up for a long time, so watch for smoke. The six-cylinder cars are also tough, but rattling while starting could be due to the starter ring gear working itself loose. Rattling while at idle is likely to be due to a loose crankshaft damper – this needs to be fixed before any damage is done. Cylinder heads are more prone to warping than those on the smaller engines.

RUNNING GEAR

Water pumps are mounted directly above the transmission. Any leaks can lead to water running into the bellhousing and seizing the clutch. Six-cylinder engines run hot, making an electric cooling fan a wise upgrade. A perceived juddering clutch could simply be due to a perished rear engine mount – rock the engine to check for play. Jumping out of gear or non-functioning synchromesh indicates internal gearbox wear. If the unit is noisy, particularly changing pitch on the overrun, then it could be a tooth having detached from the crownwheel – this can potentially do plenty of damage.

BRAKES

Clicking from the drive-shafts on full lock at lower speeds is an indication that they’re worn. Gripping the shafts and trying to twist them will test for wear.

INTERIOR

Sumptous interior boasted soft fabric and acres of space

OUR VERDICT

Today, the Traction Avant looks old-fashioned to the point of quaintness. However, when launched in 1934, it was a very different story. Lower, sleeker, and more aerodynamic than contemporary saloons, the new Citroën’s looks were groundbreaking, while the technology employed was out of this world. 

The concept of front-wheel-drive had been explored by others, but never perfected. Likewise, the chassis-less monocoque had been seen before. However, this combination of cutting-edge ideas, and their execution, was incredible. André Citroën had good reason to be proud of his creation.

Typically for Citroën, there was a different model for every buyer. With as engines ranging from a 1.3-litre four-cylinder to a 2.8-litre six, you could also select the four-door Light 15 (the Légère), the wider and longer Big 15 (Normale), five or six-seater limousine, eight or nine-seater Familiale, Commerciale hatchback, roadster or fixed head coupé. If you’re looking for an intriguing, useable and thoroughly charming classic, the Traction Avants should be at the top of your list.

Over a 23-year production run, 759,123 Traction Avants were snapped up by eager buyers across Europe. 

There was a good reason for this exceptional popularity – these front-wheel drive Citroëns are cracking machines. Proving that cutting-edge design really can work in the real world, any example from its sprawling range can still make an enjoyable and interesting classic choice.

Granted, this design does mean that there is added complexity over many of its contemporaries, but with a thriving club scene and many examples still on the road, you’ll be in good company if you buy carefully and wisely. 

If you desire a classic with ‘30s style, but don’t want to sacrifice modern-day usability, the Traction Avant is the car for you.

CITROËN SM REVIEW

The technically complex Citroën SM has never lost its ability to amaze onlookers and drivers alike. But be prepared for big bills if you don’t buy wisely…

Settle behind that quirky wheel and gaze at the sweeping instrument panel. Check out the pedals, and notice that there’s a rubber button instead of a brake pedal. Fire up and feel the car rise on its suspension. This could only be a Citroën, couldn’t it?

It’s quite a big car, but doesn’t feel like it on the road. The ride is superb and the cornering grip much better than you’d think, with only the poor lateral support of the seats discouraging spirited driving. You’ll need time to adjust to the high-geared, but very quick, power steering and the car’s width (you can’t see the right-hand front wing from the driving seat), and you will stand the car on its nose the first time you brake. Only then do you realise that you must caress the brake button rather than stamp on it.

However, there’s a delightful snarl from the V6 (which is more pronounced on carburettor cars), and a feeling of ‘rightness’ that’s difficult to describe. In absolute terms, it’s not terribly quick, but it has plenty of torque and so it feels fast. You’ll soon be dreaming about those long stretches of French autoroute, where you could really let it have its head…

VITAL STATISTICS

Citroën SM

Engine                                    2670cc/V6/4OHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  170bhp@5500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 170lb ft@4000rpm

Top speed                                135mph

0-60mph                                  8.9sec

Consumption                            24mpg 

Gearbox                                    5-spd manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

As you’d expect, rust can be a problem. It will be obvious if there is any corrosion in the front wings and wheelarches, in the door bottoms, or in the rear wheel spats. Also obvious will be corrosion in the leading edge of the bonnet panel, which is made of Citroën’s favourite duralumin, but suffers from electrolytic action because it carries a metal trim strip. However, you will need to dig a little deeper to reassure yourself that there are no really nasty problems lurking out of sight. Check the floor of the boot, and get underneath to look at the platform-chassis and the undertray.

The power steering can mask some problems, but the car should always track straight. If it pulls to one side or the steering does not self-centre, suspect trouble with the servo motor at the bottom of the steering column. Another cause of steering pull, and especially of bump-steer, can be damaged suspension arms. If you discover these, take the hint and look carefully for other damage that has been poorly repaired. If the car’s been in a front-end smash, it’s likely the front chassis legs have crumpled and the evidence will still be there. 

ENGINE

Your first concern should be with the engine. Filter out the assorted noises from the rest of the car (which should be nothing more than the hydraulics and air conditioning doing their respective things), and listen for odd noises from under the bonnet. Timing chains need to be adjusted every 10,000 miles, and rattles mean they haven’t been and could fail at any moment. Listen, too, for excessive tappet noise. The sodium-filled exhaust valves tend to fail on little-used engines, although fitting aftermarket solid valves cures the problem. On injected engines, the injectors have been known to leak and catch fire! Not surprisingly, the permanent solution is to fit more modern injectors.

When you fire the engine up, the hydraulics should immediately lift the car to its normal ride height. There will be plenty of clicking, hissing and whirring, but that’s normal. If the car doesn’t rise properly, or it sits unevenly, expect trouble with the hydraulics. Although they are fine if properly maintained and the right fluid (LHM) is used, pipes can corrode, seals can blow and spheres can leak.

ELECTRICS

Most (but not all) SMs were fitted with air conditioning, and for some unfathomable reason it can’t be turned off. Many owners find it prohibitively noisy, and internal failure of the system can have expensive knock-on effects on other under-bonnet components. As such, you’ll often find that a previous owner has fitted a DIY ‘off’ switch, or 

that the quieter system developed by Andrew Brodie Engineering has been substituted. Either way, that’s a good thing.

RUNNING GEAR

The manual gearboxes are pretty tough, but can suffer from weak synchromesh. Re-building isn’t a particular problem, though. The automatic is also long-lived, being the special two-shaft version of the Borg Warner 35 that was built for Citroën and used in the DS. Spares and re-building shouldn’t be a worry. 

INTERIOR

Most cars have leather seats, but there was also a nylon fabric upholstery option, which wears through. A full re-trim is the only answer. The front seat backrests have been known to break, too.

OUR VERDICT

The SM exerts a strange fascination unlike that of any other car. Driving one is always an occasion, and the car turns heads wherever you go. It’s quite addictive, although you’ll need a little time to get accustomed to it. Once the penny finally drops, you’ll probably find every other car somehow inferior.

It must be emphasised that we don’t think the SM is a car for the feeble of wallet. It’s a hardcore enthusiast’s car that’s at its best when used for long-distance runs in the grand tourer tradition. It’s left-hand drive (although three were converted to RHD in the UK), which is a drawback and you wouldn’t want to use one for the school run or your weekly visit to the supermarket. It’s not really a family car, either, and the poor rear legroom makes it little more than a big 2+2. 

But if you use it as a classic toy, who cares about such trivialities?

Visitors to the 1970 Geneva Motor Show were astounded when they first saw the Citroën SM. The company had been itching to build a grand routier for years, and its acquisition of Maserati in 1968 had given it the means to do so. In essence, the 2.7-litre V6 engine comprised three-quarters of a Maserati V8, with reduced bore and stroke to keep it under
the 2.8-litre French tax break. 

The shape was astonishing. It tapered sharply towards the rear, while six headlamps – the outer pair of which swivelled – gave it an unmistakable front. With Citroën’s characteristic front-wheel drive and full-power hydraulics operating the brakes and suspension, it drove like no other car. Cruising at 100mph was easy, while 135mph was within reach.

The original triple-Weber engine gave way to an injected version in 1972, and then the triple Webers returned for a bigger-bore 3-litre version of the engine harnessed to an automatic gearbox in 1973. This was mainly for the US market, but Citroën was already losing interest, and the oil crisis did the rest before the car was finally canned in 1975.

CITROËN BX REVIEW

Citroen used to build bonkers cars and while some loved the company for it, most buyers stayed away, petrified of the complex hydraulics and crazy interiors. What the company needed, if it wasn't going to go belly up, was a more mainstream model with just the right amount of individuality, but not so much that potential buyers were scared.

The BX was that car. It looked like nothing else on the road, yet the engineering was largely conventional. Designed by Bertone and borrowing most of its running gear from the Peugeot parts bin, the BX doubled Citroen's UK sales. If Q cars float your boat, too (that's Q for quick), the BX GTi 16V could be the classic you've been searching for.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

Forget the seemingly complex mechanicals; rust is what kills BXs. Plastic panels (some bonnets, all tailgates and fuel filler flaps) can allow cruddy BXs to look decent - while the structure underneath is compromised.

Front wings tend to last; they're easily replaced anyway, as they bolt on, and used ones are plentiful. Rear quarter panels are less durable, especially on estates that were built (but poorly rustproofed) by Heuliez. Replacement panels are scarce and repairs involve welding. Check the front inner wings where they meet the wheel housing; rust here is common and it's not easy to fix on cars with ABS, as the pump is on the nearside inner wing. Also check under the airbox; effective repairs entail removal of the wing and wheelarch liner to gain access. Look for rust stains in the seam sealer between wheel tub and inner wing; also inspect the windscreen surround for bubbles and previous repairs. Many BXs have had new windscreens and poor fitment leads to rust.

Door hinges can break away from the A-post when the welds give way. Repairs are possible, but a pain. If the hinge flexes as the door is opened and closed, the A-post is probably rotten. Check the top of the A-post above and behind the hinges as these can rust through.

The rear door shuts and wing rot because water and mud collect behind the rear wheel spat so it corrodes out of sight. Rust around the sunroof is rare, but check anyway, as it's difficult to repair; most hatchbacks have an electric tilt/slide sunroof, but estates weren't offered with one. Some have been sealed up because of blocked drain holes; they're at each corner of the mechanism, and clearing is fiddly, but possible. Check for damp around the aperture.

The plastic bumpers age badly but they're easy to remove and replace. Most are colour-keyed and they fade, but can be rejuvenated with a hot air gun, bumper gel or fresh paint. 16-valve models got their own bumpers that are fragile and scarce.

ENGINES
Engine-wise, there's not much to worry about. Most surviving BXs feature a 1769cc or 1905cc naturally aspirated or turbocharged XUD diesel engine, as fitted to ious PSA and Rover models. The XUD unit lasts forever if looked after, although head gaskets can fail - but the engine will still often keep working for ages. Changing the oil every 6000 miles, the coolant every two years and the cam belt/water pump every 40,000 miles (or four years) will see 200,000 miles despatched with ease. All engines have a cambelt apart from the early 1.4-litre petrol unit.

Petrol fans could choose between a 1.4 carburetted or 1.6/1.9 XU petrol in carb or injected forms. Until 1988 the 1.4 was the gearbox-in-sump unit shared with the Visa and early 205/309; later came the more modern TU unit shared with the Peugeot 106 and Citroen Saxo. The later unit is more refined and parts supply is better. Both give nippy performance, but are low geared, so they're vocal on motorways.

The .6 and 1.9 XU engine came in four-speed auto or five-speed manual forms with 80-160bhp, the latter in twin-cam Mi16 form. This engine is reliable if maintained, but carb versions go out of tune and the automatic choke on twin-choke Solexes can be unreliable. Overhaul kits and manual choke conversions are available, but the best fix is to fit more reliable Weber replacements - although sometimes the system just needs tuning.

The final cars got electronic fuel injection and catalytic converters, which rarely give problems, although air intake leaks can cause rough running and idling issues on cars with multipoint injection.

TRANSMISSIONS
Gearboxes are tough. Some basic 1.4-litre BXs got a four-speed box, but all others got five speeds; entry-level 1.4-litre cars are almost extinct now. The same BE1 or BE3 gearbox was used across the range - the two are interchangeable. Also fitted to the Peugeot 309 and 405, decent used transmissions cost £50-£100, but you're unlikely to need one. The thing likely to wear is the idler gear, which gets noisy. However, the selector mechanism and linkages can wear, but they're cheap to replace. Clutches can last 200,000 miles; as they wear they get sticky and stiff. However, these symptoms can also betray a tired clutch cable; replacements are cheap, readily available and easy to fit.

Clutch cables can also snap, while a stiff pedal can be greatly improved by lubricating teh lever on top of the bell housing. Speedo cables fail regularly but they're no longer available. They're long and run through the offside of the bulkhead and behind the dash at a sharp angle. If the speedo is wobbly or ticking, the cable is on its way out and you'll probably have to get one made specially. Automatic BXs are common and they're unbreakable if the fluid is changed correctly. Dextron 2 needs to go in, but Dextron 4 is often used - which destroys the transmission. Decent used auto boxes start at £100.

STEERING AND SUSPENSION
Most BXs have had a suspension overhaul by now. A hard, bouncy ride betrays worn spheres; they're typically cheaper than a shock absorber and can be replaced in minutes. If the rear wheels lean in at the top and there's creaking or cracking, the rear arm bearings have worn. Budget £150 per side to get them fixed. Suspension struts rarely fail (but the rubber return pipes do), although they become stiff and sticky and can groan when raised to full height. They can be lubricated, but replacement is better, although new ones are pricey at £300 (if available at all). Reconditioned items are £150 apiece on an exchange basis. A BX will settle down to its bump stops over a few hours when switched off, as hydraulic pressure drops. When started it should raise itself back up to normal height within 5-10 seconds; any longer indicates a tired pump and/or accumulator sphere, as does stiff or sticky steering or the low pressure light coming on. Both are available and are easy to fit. Finally, check for hydraulic leaks, which are obvious as the LHM fluid is bright green. Later models had coated hydraulic pipes, but the earlier steel ones fatigue and corrode; if they fail there'll be no suspension, brakes or power steering. You have been warned!

WHEELS AND BRAKES
The braking system is largely conventional in its design, with no inherent weaknesses. Everything is available and nothing is costly. Handbrake cables can seize, but they're easily freed up. On cars with ABS, make sure the warning lamp illuminates then extinguishes when the engine is started; new sensors are extinct, so you'd have to remove the system to avoid and MoT failure, or find a decent used sensor.

TRIM AND ELECTRICS
There were two basic seat styles. The softer, more sculpted standard seat that's normally covered in a tweed or herringbone fabric can wear through, especially on the driver's side. A sportier design was fitted to the GTi 8v and TZD Turbo; these were fitted to most models evenutally. The 160bhp 16-valve models got bespoke front seats with lumbar support that are supremely comfortable and supportive, but as rare as the 16v itself. Electrics can also be temperamental. Fan motors pack in (usually because of a dodgy earth) while heater controls can seize. Forcing them breaks them; replacements are available, but fitment is fiddly as they're behind the dash. The spindle wears in the single front wiper. Decent used replacements are scarce, so it's best to fit new bushes.
 

VERDICT

Why do you want one? You don't want to follow the crowd, and while the contemporary alternatives are no longer mainstream, they still lack the left-field appeal of the Citroen. However, despite its reputation, the most unusual thing about the BX is its styling; the engineering itself is relatively conventional, aside from that hydropneumatic suspension. Speaking of which, it's one of the major attractions of the BX, not a reason to run away in terror. It's reliable and endows the Citroen with a balance of ride and handling that you just can't achieve with conventional steel springing.

If you're thinking of buying a left-field classic that's eminently usable and cheap to run, the BX fits the bill. But the survival rate is poor, which is why you're unlikely to see another at a show. Most of the cars left are Mk2s (introduced in 1986) and diesel-powered; find one with a good history and you've got an ultra-practical classic. Tattycars can be bought for just a few hundred quid, while even the best examples command little more than £2000. That's top value in any language.

CITROËN C3 5CV TREFLE REVIEW

Developing the bottom end of the market, until the early 1920s occupied by the cyclecar, challenged Andre Citroen, his first truly outstanding design, the Type C, introduced in 1922.

'Motoring for the masses' French-style - the model was also known as the Cloverleaf because of its two-plus-one seating or 5CV after its tax rating - brought real car ownership within reach of the man in the street.

For the first time in France though, the marketing people decided to aim this car towards feminine clientele too, which paid off handsomely. Powered by a four-cylinder side valve engine displacing 856cc, the Cloverleaf was more renowned for longevity than speed. Indeed, an example was driven all round Australia in 1925 but, given the model's success, the decision to discontinue it by May 1926 appears hard to justify.

The arrival of the Citroen C3 Trefle in 1924 boosted sales further, the company soon producing 250 cars per day, sales reaching over 10,000 annually until production ceased, a total of 80,232 5CVs produced in all.

CITROËN VISA

By the Seventies, Citroën had fallen into the hands of arch-rival Peugeot. While this could be seen as a disaster, especially for those who worship the SM which Peugeot killed off pretty quickly, it was also a blessing in some ways.

For a start, they gained access to Peugeot’s small car family. This quickly resulted in the LN – a truncated Peugeot 104 initially available with a 652cc version of the 2CV’s aircooled boxer engine. The purists may not have been pleased, especially when the LN turned into the LNA – this even had a Peugeot engine. Quelle horreur!

But the little supermini couldn’t match the utilitarian appeal of the Tin Snail and Dyane, and this is how the Visa came into being. Launched in 1978, it had quirky looks, a hugely practical 5-door body and when sales began in the UK the following year, you could have a Club, Special or Super – the former pair having the 652cc engine, the Super relying on a transverse 1124cc Peugeot powerplant.

The model range developed into a frankly baffling number of trim levels, which could take half this guide to explain but in short, engines ranged from the 652cc flat-twin to the fiery 1580cc GTi. There was even a hugely economical diesel. A short-lived Convertible – one of very few topless four-doors – was available in 1983.

Production ran until 1988 but like the Dyane and LNA before it, the Visa was culled while the Tin Snail lived on, albeit for only another two years.

VITAL STATS

Engine 652cc/4-cyl/DOHC
Power 36bhp@5500rpm
Torque 38lb ft@3500rpm
Top speed 72mph
0-60mph 28sec
Economy 36mpg
Gearbox 4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

Like so many cars of the period, the Citroën Visa suffers badly from corrosion, as can be witnessed by the small number of survivors. The main areas for concern include the front outer wings, engine bulkhead, rear quarters, rear suspension top mount and the boot floor. Compared with other Visa models, the 652cc air-cooled twin-cylinder suffers minimal engine bulkhead rust. If there's a sunroof fitted, have a good look at the tray.

In its original form, the Visa had distinctive frontal syling, retaining a real Citroen look, despite being based on the Peugeot 104 floorplan and suspension. The unusual combined polypropylene grill and bumper was changed for the MkII in the hope of attracting greater sales. Original Peugeot-engined Visas could be identified by different wheel trims and a rubbing strake along the sides.

All Visas are all five-door hatches, with the exception of the striking four-door cabriolet - introduced from 1984. If you manage to find one of the latter, check to see if the hood has been reconditioned and if the rear window has been replaced. The convertible retained the standard door frames with a tie-bar between the pillars to maintain rigidity. Inspect these carefully for signs of corrosion.

ENGINE & GEARBOX

Engine sizes are 652cc air-cooled twin-cylinder petrol; 954cc, 1124cc, 1219cc, 1360cc and 1580cc water-cooled four-cylinder petrol; and 1769cc water-cooled four-cylinder diesel. All engines are generally reliable and the Peugeot XUD 169cc diesel (also used in the original C15D van) is capable of achieving more than 200,000 miles. The fuel-injuected 1580ccGTi engine is also used in the Peugeot 205 GTi. As a result of the use of the latter's powerplant, the GTi model has plastic wheel arch extensions to take the wider track.

The 1124cc models often need their carburettor servicing in later life, while the 1360cc GT twin carbs can have balance problems, too. Repair work that can be undertaken with the engine in place is limited. The engine identification number lives on a plate riveted to the cylinder block, while the body number can be found on the right-hand suspension mounting. All gearboxes are good, although the GTi 'box can have synchromesh problems. 

RUNNING GEAR

The cars had independent suspension with MacPherson struts at the front and an anti-roll bar and trailing arm behind, and soft-rigin characteristics in the typical French style of the 1970s. The GTi model offers a lower and firmer ride with better road-holding capabilities than the equivalent Peugeot 205 GTi. New Citroen-designed disc brakes were introduced for the Visa with LN drums at the rear. The original Super model featured wheels one size up from the Special and Club models, the narrower section tyres on the latter giving a slightly tighter turning circle over the Super.

INTERIOR & ELECTRICS

A 'satellite' control unit, mounted on a stalk on the steering wheel colum, operated the flashers, headlamps, horn and indicators. This remained until 1985 when a new design dashboard and switchgear were introduced.

The MkI models feature vibrant colours and more interesting fabrics, but the earlier seat fabrics are prone to fading and rot. Replacement seats in the correct material are not easy to find. The later seat fabrics have less nylon and are more durable. Bucket seats in the GTi are prone to wear on the wings. The electrics on all models are reliable with the exception of the larger, temperamental, loom on the GTi.

OUR VERDICT

These quirky cars are becoming increasingly rare and those early MKIs have a certain je ne sais quoi about them. As of 1 January this year, the DVLA said there were 90 on SORN and 33 taxed, making a total of just 123 (plus the possibility of a few stored pre-SORN). While some will remember early Citroën Visas as sedate, even on fairly level roads, others will recall the hot Visas developed by both Citoren and specialists for rallying. Later models such as the Chrono, GTi, Trophee and Mille Pistes continue to be club rallied.

CITROEN XM REVIEW

Temptingly quirky but with a reputation for trouble, should you invest in this French modern classic? We advise you on buying the best...

Replacing the popular, futuristically-styled CX was never going to be easy but that was the task facing Citroen in the late 1980s, and the result was this, the XM.  The curves were gone, the Bertone bodywork taking on a far more angular look with plenty of glass and a sharply chiseled front end that looked suitably stylish at the 1989 launch.  In fact, the XM was appealing enough to bag the European Car of the Year gong the following year so what was it like to drive?  Well, very relaxing as you might expect from a big Citroen and much of that was down to the computer-controlled ‘Hydractive’ suspension system.  Once again the company eschewed a conventional coil spring and damper arrangement, instead choosing to stick with a heavily revised version of their hydro-pneumatic set up.  The result was a car that rode superbly, if a little more firmly than the magic-carpet ride of old, the new system keeping body roll and pitch to a minimum in harder driving.  Allied to accurate steering and powerful brakes this was a car that you could punt down a twisty road with confidence, although in fairness it was comfortable motorway cruising where the big hatchback really excelled. 

The XM could soothe away the miles very effectively, giving passengers plenty of time to enjoy the spacious cabin and generous equipment levels.  Indeed, if it was space you needed then an XM would have been perfect, and there was always the cavernous estate - built by French coachbuilders, Heuliez - if you needed to shift not only the sink but the whole kitchen too. The hatchback even included an extra glass panel behind the rear seats to keep draughts at bay when the tailgate was opened.  Engine-wise, the original 8-valve petrol motor could be a bit sluggish and the need to row it along wasn’t really in keeping with the car’s relaxed demeanour.  Far better instead to ignore the thirst and plump for the smooth 3.0-litre V6 petrol that was allied to a slick-shifting automatic transmission.  Or let common sense rule and take the frugal turbo-diesel route.    

VITAL STATISTICS

Citroen XM V6

Engine           2975cc/V6/SOHC

Power            170bhp@5600rpm

Torque          173lb ft@4600rpm

Top speed    133mph

0-60mph        9.3secs

Economy      22mpg

Gearbox        4-speed automatic

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

Panel rust is a relatively rare occurrence although it pays to check the lower front wings where they meet the sills.  Parking dings and poorly repaired accident damage are the most likely causes of corrosion, and pay particular attention to the bumpers for scrapes and missing chrome trim which is hard to source.  Damaged light units and mirrors are likely to need a hunt for new-old stock or secondhand parts so check those too, although used panels are generally easy to find. 

You’ll need to check more carefully underneath as the sills are prone to corroding from the inside out - check their full length and around the jacking points.  Thick layers of factory underseal can hide rot in the floor or box sections too, so a good prod of these areas is advisable.  And you’ll need to ensure that the top suspension mountings - especially those at the front - are free of rust.  Generally speaking, it seems that Series 2 cars (introduced for the 1995MY) can be more prone to corrosion woes so pay them particular attention.

ENGINE

Petrol engines are robust with regular maintenance although the eight-valve unit is a bit underpowered.  Consider the turbocharged motor or later sixteen-valve for better performance, but check that the turbo itself is healthy and there are no signs of blue smoke on the overrun.  Leaking exhaust manifold gaskets can be an issue too.  Cam belt changes are crucial with all engines, so be extremely wary of cars with a patchy or non-existent service history, and keep an eye out for engine management issues and rogue warning lights.  Most problems are caused by dodgy electrical connections and corroded earth points but specialists can sort these once and for all.  And don’t dismiss the 3.0-litre V6 - it’s considered bullet-proof, if a bit thirsty. 

Diesels proved popular with buyers thanks to their reliability, torquey power delivery, and better economy.  They’re reliable on the whole too, though head gasket problems are a concern - some owners reckon a stronger anti-freeze mix can reduce the risk of failure - and you’ll need to ensure that the turbocharger isn’t showing signs of wear.  The 2.1-litre unit is easier to work on - changing the cambelt on a 2.5 takes almost twice as long - but look out for leaking radiators, and leaks from the fuel return pipes on the injectors.

TRANSMISSION

Manual gearboxes are strong and any problems should be obvious, but ensure the clutch operation is okay as sourcing a good quality replacement cable can be tricky.  The automatic ‘box has a reputation for unreliability, but while you do need to be wary of misbehaving units, annual fluid changes are the key to longevity.  If that’s been done, they should cover high mileages without issue. 

SUSPENSION

Scare stories about the ‘Hydractive’ suspension abound but it’s rarely the trouble you’d expect.  Specialist attention is usually best, but a well maintained system should be fine as long as the LHM fluid has been changed every 30,000 miles.  It makes sense to ensure that the ride height isn’t lopsided, that the pipework is solid and leak-free, and that it responds properly to the height and mode selection switches, but otherwise don’t worry.  Power steering pumps need checking for noises or leaks, and ensure that the ABS is fully operational.  Faulty wheel sensors are often to blame and replacements are scarce - replacing the complete hub with a secondhand item is a common cure.

ELECTRICS

Most of the electrical maladies should have been sorted by now, but prod every switch to be certain.  Failed electric window regulators can be a common problem and a pain to fix (costly too) while central locking and heater motors can fail too.  Also, door locks themselves can play up, and watch for missing pixels on the dashboard’s LED displays.  Most trim materials are fairly hard-wearing - although interior parts are getting scarce - and watch for battered load bays on estates.

OUR VERDICT

It’s gained a reputation for painful ownership, but that’s unfair according to specialists and owners.  We’d certainly avoid abused or neglected examples that could test your patience, but XMs are well understood now and there’s excellent specialist and enthusiast support.  It may have foibles but there’s no doubt it holds a very definite kind of appeal.

Citroen XM

CITROËN ID REVIEW

For those frightened of the technically more complex DS, the ID offered all the other advances of Citroën’s masterpiece.

Introduced into the UK in 1958, the ID was the proper replacement for the long-serving Traction Avant. The more expensive DS from which it was derived was reaching a different clientele. A basic ID was really a lower-powered DS (or ID Super) without some of those cars’ more costly technology – notably the high-pressure hydraulic system for brakes, gearchange and steering. It still had that wonderful hydropneumatic suspension, though. Built in the UK at Citroën’s Slough factory up to mid-1966, the ID was always too expensive for the British market, so sales were steady rather than strong. But there are still good ones about that make rewarding classics today.

VITAL STATISTICS

CITROËN 1965 ID19 saloon

Engine                                    1911cc/4-cyl/pushrod OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  72bhp@4500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 101 lb ft @3000rpm

Top speed                                98mph

0-60mph                                  16sec

Consumption                            26mpg

Gearbox                                    4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

The ID’s body features unstressed panels mounted to a skeleton inner frame, and the whole lot is mounted on a platform chassis. All this means that the biggest killer is structural rot.

Bad rusting in the floorpan or the inner sill box-sections may put a car beyond saving. Check by lifting up the sill trim and the carpets. Take off the rear wings (held on by a single bolt) and examine the structure inside. Rot around the mountings for the rear suspension’s hydraulic spheres is bad news, because these take a pounding in everyday use. 

Replacement of any outer skin panel is theoretically easy – they all unbolt, so only seized bolts will complicate the job. Not every panel is available, but many have been remanufactured (mostly in GRP) and can be bought easily enough through Citroën specialists.

ENGINE

The engine was in some ways the ID’s least attractive feature. It’s a long-lived four-cylinder pushrod overhead valve unit that isn’t difficult to work on, but it came directly from the superseded Traction Avant and was old technology when first introduced for the ID. With a lower tune than the equivalent DS engines, the ID’s power units were always disappointingly low on guts. They were a bit lumpy at low speeds, too. 

There were four different ID engines over the years. Up to mid-1966, the ID19 models had the Traction’s 1911cc type with 62bhp. Next came a 78bhp 1985cc engine, which in 1968 was uprated with a twin-choke carburettor. Meanwhile, from 1965 the ID21 Safari had a 2175cc engine, which helped to cope with the estate’s extra weight.

RUNNING GEAR

The four-speed gearbox in these cars has a column change. The gears are widely spaced, and you have to row the car up to cruising speeds. Fortunately, the clutch is quite light.

The steering is heavy at low speeds (there was no power assistance until 1967) with strong self-centring. The brakes are powerful, with inboard discs at the front and outboard drums at the rear. You won’t have to get used to the apparently unprogressive action of the rubber button that serves as the brake pedal in a DS or ID Super, either: base IDs got a standard pedal. 

Eight greasing points on the car need attention every 3000 miles, so expect problems if you don’t grease the ball joints, suspension arms and driveshafts regularly – especially on a car that doesn’t get regular use.

INTERIOR

The Citroën’s interior is like that of no other car. The dash still seems quite modern, although the instruments are dated and limited in number and the seats are large and soft.

Cloth seat coverings eventually wear through and look tatty as a result, but the seats themselves remain useable. Minor trim items changed quite frequently, and differences between French-built and Slough-built cars mean a scrap ID may not provide all the interior parts you’ll need unless it’s exactly the right age.

OUR VERDICT

Buy an ID if you want an attention-grabbing classic that is rare enough even to make Citroën enthusiasts take a second look. 

Buy a Safari estate if you can because it was one of the best estate cars ever made, anywhere. Above all, buy an ID because it belongs to the car range that changed people’s perceptions of the motor car forever back in the 1950s.

CITROËN AX REVIEW

Get yourself one of the most desirable and charismatic small French cars ever. The Citroën AX. 

Considered to be Citroen's first convincing step into the supermini market, the AX was light, nimble and 'revolutionnaire' according to Citroen's ad campaigns. Launched in 1986, it promised fuel consumption of 70mpg (in 1.0-litre form), refined engineering and an accomplished drive. It was incredibly popular, especially among youngsters who appreciated the overall light and airy feel to it, making it a doddle to drive. Its adaptability served it well, offering buyers a choice of petrol and diesel engines, three- and five-door bodies and even a 4x4 model, although we never got the last of these in the UK.

In 1996, it was largely superseded by the Saxo (although the AX continued to be produced until 1998), which was based on the Peugeot 106, which itself was a re-working of the AX. If that wasn't proof of how a modern a car it was, it continued to be manufactured from 1996 to 2000 in Malaysia, where it was badged as the Proton Tiara.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine: 1360cc/4-cyl/OHC

Power: 100bhp@6800rpm

Torque: 89ft lb@5000rpm

Maximum Speed: 118mph

0-60mph: 8.7sec

Fuel consumption: 33-41mpg

Transmission: FWD, five-spd manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Brown rust for all to see

Watch out for rust - this might seem obvious when said aloud, but most of these cars won't have had an easy life. Many may have been forgotten about, left outisde to battle the elements and rust will have set in. Front wings, behind the headlights, around the filler cap, in the boot floor and round the rear window edge are the obvious places to start. However, you should check every inch of the car for problems. The construction is very lightweight, meaning that the thin panels are easily dented and any tinworm will significantly weaken the structure.

Simple interior, cheap to fix

Cabins are simple. This means there's theoretically less to go wrong, but the cheap trim is known for flling off or breaking - don't let this put you off, you always find bits for them. The interior light is quite a common problem, with one quick fix involving removing the aerial and sticking some grease under the mounting. A leaking heater is a more complex thing to fix though.

Gearbox crunch

A crucnhing noise while changing gears should ring alarm bells. It's usually caused by very worn gear linkages. Gearboxes can be found easily, though.

Motor troubles

This chirpy and cheap car has five differnet engine variations, ranging from a 1.5-litre iron block diesel to a 1.4-litre 100bhp OHC beauty. All are long-lived (especially the diesels) although oil leaks are common. Check service history for oil, coolant and cambelt changes. Diesels can survive for well over 150,000 miles if properly maintained.

Our verdict

In the time before soft-roaders and crossovers, the simple hatcback was good enough for the average Brit. We loved them for being cheap to run and repair, while being economical enough to get more than 40mpg (depending on the engine). The AX is spacious enough, with adequate room for kids - and not just on short journeys to the shops and back. It's modern and sufficently reliable to be used as an everyday driver, but its innate French quirkiness makes it more interesting than many of its rivals. GTs and GTIs are especially fun, albeit very rare. 

CITROËN DYANE REVIEW

The Citroën Dyane: we highlight the pros and cons of the 2CV sibling that’s better in almost every way...

Citroën bought Panhard in 1963, and tasked its designers with creating a ‘better’ 2CV using the Tin Snail’s underpinnings. The end result had cleaner styling, a practical hatchback, a little more performance and luxuries such as a dashboard and sliding windows. UK sales commenced in 1968, and ended in 1982. Later models had a fold-down rear seat, disc front brakes (July 1977 onwards) and an entire 4bhp more than the equivalent 2CV. The vast majority have the 33bhp 602cc engine, but 435cc engine was also available from 1970-1974.

VITAL STATISTICS

Citroën Dyane 6

Engine                                    602cc/2-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  33bhp@5750rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 31lb/ft@3100rpm

Top speed                                75mph

0-60mph                                  27sec

Consumption                            45mpg

Gearbox                                    4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Thin metal and poor rustproofing means corrosion is an issue, pretty much anywhere. Happily, right-hand drive Dyanes usually came on a stronger chassis than left-hand drive models, but check its entire length for rot. Thump the underside; if it rattles, the strengthening members inside are rotten. A replacement chassis will cost around £400, but add up to more like £2000 fitted. 

Lift the rubber mats and check the floor, sills and bulkhead, then inspect the C posts and inner rear wings. The Deux Chevaux Club of Great Britain (2CVGB) remanufactures both, as well as new sliding window rubbers. Check the windscreen surround and under the bonnet, lift out the spare wheel and check the bulkhead. 

Doors and the tailgate can rot on the edges, but replacements aren’t too tricky to find. The club holdssome secondhand panels. Brightwork can be tricky to locate but thankfully there isn’t very much of it. Bumpers were latterly stainless steel, but are very strong. They are also very sharp on the inner edges, so be careful.

Parts are easily swapped between models, so make sure you know what you are getting. Expert advice is essential if buying an early one, to make sure it really is what it says it is.

ENGINE

The better M28 602cc engine was fitted from 1968, with an external oil filter from 1970. The 435cc and the earlier (and very rare) M4 602cc engine are for collectors only really. The M28 is very tough as long as regular (every 3000 miles) oil changes have been carried out. Oil leaks are uncommon, but could be as simple as tired rocker cover seals. Watch for blue smoke on start up – it could be leaky valve stem seals or worn piston rings. A smell of fumes inside the car suggests leaky cylinder heads – they’ll need lapping in and re-torquing as there is no gasket. Engines are on the whole reliable, with 200,000 miles not unheard of.

RUNNING GEAR

Gearboxes are hardy but there is no first gear synchromesh. With high mileage, third gear synchromesh can fail. The transmissions were always noisy, so excessive noise can be hard to spot. Driveshafts rarely give trouble, but need regular greasing, as do the kingpins. There should be no play discernible at either front wheel. Clonking could be a rusted wheel catching the kingpin housing, driveshafts catching the wings or excessive play in kingpin or track rod end. Steering racks can develop play too, but can usually be repaired. 

Don’t be alarmed by the inboard front brakes. They’re simple to work on, just different. Stopping power should be excellent, even though there’s no servo. The handbrake operates on the front wheels and with disc brakes, is often poorly adjusted.  

Worn dampers will cause the ride to be very bouncy. While the suspension is soft, it should quickly settle. Suspension creaks usually mean the suspension cans need lubricating with vegetable oil. Mineral oil wrecks the seals, so ask the owner and check for damage. 

INTERIOR

Vinyl seats are tough, cloth trim usually degrades badly. Check for replacement seat covers and worn seat diaphragms – they’ll have you sitting on the floor. Otherwise there’s not really a lot of trim to check. Electrical issues are usually down to poor connections – there are a lot of bullet connectors. Cleaning them up or replacing them can make a world of difference. 2CVGB supplies a modified rear lamp as the original tail-lights are feeble. Do watch for severely worn wiper spindles. Replacements are around £50 each, and later types are becoming tricky to find.

OUR VERDICT

The Dyane offers surprising practicality along with the typical high-on-fun driving experience common to its 2CV sibling. They’re slightly more refined at motorway speeds – as in the doors don’t flap – but it’s when the road gets twisty that you’ll really get a smile on your face.    

DIY tinkering is no problem at all, though it can be very different and takes some learning. There’s excellent club and parts support, space for four adults and 45-50mpg. Values have lagged behind the 2CV for many years, but are catching up fast as rarity kicks in. Buy wisely – restoration costs quickly mount up.