1 Listen to your heart, engage your brain, then check your bank balance
For most people, deciding to buy a classic car is an emotionally-driven decision. Maybe you want a model that your dad used to own, one you owned years ago and remember fondly or it could be one you always yearned for but never had the opportunity to buy. Whatever the motivation, the first step is to identify the exact model you want – and that means putting pure desire to one side and getting all sensible and grown-up about it. For instance, you may lust after a ’70s Jaguar XJS V12 – but ask yourself: ‘do I really need a 5.3-litre engine with mpg figures in the teens and considerable maintenance costs?’ If the answer is: ‘yes – and I can afford it,’ that’s fantastic. Go ahead and find one. If not, maybe the 3.6-litre straight-six engine option will make more sense.
2 Do your detective work
Look through buyers’ guides in our sister publications Practical Classics, Classic Cars and Classic Car Weekly to research the upsides and downsides of the model you’re interested in. Maybe even contact the owners’ club – they’re often keen to bring new members into the fold and are a mine of information on things like spares availability and prices. This will either convince you that you’ve made the right decision or bring about a re-think. Whatever the outcome, you should now be able to pinpoint the car that’s best for you, so make a wish list for your target car, including specifications such as: colour, engine, transmission, body shape and interior trim.
3 What can you afford?
This is the really big question. Put your Mr Sensible head on. Think about all the stuff above – and, above all, remember you’ve got to keep the thing running once you’ve bought it. Once you’ve done that, the preparation’s over – you’ve sorted the car you want and how much you’re prepared to pay for it.
4 Where to look
Classiccarsforsale.co.uk of course! But wherever you look, you’ll be faced with the choice of buying from a dealer (more expensive but generally safer and with more legal comeback if things go awry) or a private seller (generally cheaper but can be more of a gamble). Dealers also offer the prospect of looking at several cars in one location, although beware: there’s a chance you may be bewitched by a car that isn’t on your wish list – these whirlwind romances can end in an acrimonious divorce! When buying privately, you really need to know your onions, or take someone who knows theirs, along to any viewings.
5 Crafty calling
The golden rule when phoning about a car is to find out as much info as you possibly can. This way you’ll avoid a lot of wasted time on cronks that make your heart sink as soon as you look at them. If the seller is evasive or disinterested, cut your call short. Enthusiastic owners keen to discuss the car and its history are what you want. To weed out driveway dealers masquerading as private sellers, use this classic ruse: when the seller answers the phone, ask about ’the car for sale’; if he says ‘which car?’ he’s probably dealing on the sly – one to avoid.
6 The nitty gritty
The aforesaid buyers’ guides (see tip 2) will forearm you with the areas of your target car that need careful inspection. Corrosion is the enemy of most classics, so be prepared toget grubby under the car with a torch and screwdriver to prod for rust holes – or prepare to pay someone else to do it. If a car for sale ticks all your boxes but you don’t feel competent enough to carry out a thorough inspection, it’s worth paying an expert to have a proper look at it. The golden rules are: never inspect a car in the dark or when it’s raining – many an imperfection can be hidden in these conditions.
7 Making an offer
Be polite when discussing a car and its value with its owner – but don’t be afraid to put in a low offer. You never know your luck. Summarise any faults you’ve discovered on the car and use them as leverage to get the best possible price. Haggling can be fun, but going too far can put some people’s backs up. Gauge the situation and make an offer accordingly. Try to contain your enthusiasm – the buyer will take this as a sign you’re willing to pay all the money. Just try not to get carried away; stay within your budget and you’ve got every chance of becoming a deliriously happy classic car owner.
10 TOP TIPS ON HOW TO BUY CLASSICS
1. FIND A BUYER FIRST
There's nothing better than already having someone lined up to buy a car from you before you've made the purchase. You may not have much of a chance to enjoy the car if you're moving it on swiftly, but you'll be on the next rung of the classic car ladder. Do beware of income tax implications, though.
2. STUDY YOUR MARKET
The likes of a Standard 8 may be cheap to purchase, but there may not be much profit to be had by the time it comes to selling. At this end of the market, you really need to rely on skills, time and facilities to make a profit.
3. DON'T FEAR AUCTIONS
Buying a classic car at auction is actually an exhilarating way to make a purchase. It can also lead you to unexpected bargains. But do remember that what you think it is a bargain may not necessarily be so in reality. Keep your own limitations in mind and know your cars.
4. ASK AROUND
If you're really keen to get a bargain, pick a locality and ask around. People in a local shop or a pub may well have heard that someone has an old car they might like to sell. Milk deliverers and postmen are also useful sources of unmissable local information.
5. USE OVERSEAS CONTACTS
It has long been acknowledged that the USA is a useful source of rust-free Brit tin. California is not the only place where dreams are made. In Australia there are many hidden gems lying idle in barns and garages and the Aussie domestic market for such delights is limited.
6. IMPORT TWO OR MORE CARS
It might be a bot more work, but if you're importing a car, why not make it two? Then one can be sold to help recover transport costs. If you have a whole container, fill it with parts as well by finding a reliable person to strip another couple of cars for export.
7. BE BOLD
If you see a car that fits your bill while out and about, don't be afraid to leave contact details. You may just find that the vehicle is available and at a decent price, thus dodging a bidding war, but don't be too intrusive. This method may take time to reap rewards.
8. BE IMPARTIAL
Work outside the limitations of your own taste. Only liking Rootes Group products may well give you expert knowedge of the marque encompassed, but the usual Jaguars and Triumphs will always sell more easily and often at greater prices.
9. ONLINE ADVANTAGE
Try searching online auction and sales sites using misspellings and typos. There may not be many folks looking for a 'Tiumph' (32 items noted), a 'Damler' (five items listed) or an 'Autin' (12 items listed). It may seem a tad unfair, but as the old saying goes, that's life.
10.TRADITIONAL SOURCES
There is of course your weekly classic newspaper Classic Car Weekly and this website Classic Cars For Saleas great sources of tempting tin. But also look on type-specific forums and clus websites, as they often feature a For Sale section.
1980S CARS ARE MOST LIKELY TO GET STOLEN
Police call for theft awareness as Home Office figures show modern classics are more at risk
Thieves will make short work of breaking into most vehicles – but due to rising values 1980s cars are prime targets.
Shock new statistics from the Home Office reveal that rapidly appreciating 1980s classics are the most likely of all cars to be stolen. Vehicles from this decade collectively make up less than 2% of all vehicles on the road, but police say that if you own an ‘80s classic, you should take extra measures to protect it.
The sobering numbers backing up these findings were released in a new report published in January by the Home Office. The publication of these findings are aimed at reducing crimes against classic car owners, but highlight the problem. For instance, 98 car thefts in every 10,000 are against Vauxhall Novas.
The report outlined that vehicle theft offenders operating today are even more organised and capable than they were in the 1980s, something car crime adviser to the Federation of British Historic Vehicles, PC Simon Barrett, would agree with.
‘Car crime in the 1980s was rampant and the problem hasn’t gone away. I’m pleased the Home Office has done something,’ he says. ‘The sad news is that as these cars rise in value, they become more attractive to steal. We’re trying to raise awareness so people can stop themselves becoming victims.’
The FBHVC had a stand at last year’s NEC Classic Motor Show showing visitors the best ways to prevent classic car theft.
According to the Home Office report, ‘…newer cars make up a far higher proportion of stolen vehicles than older cars, but once this is adjusted for numbers of cars on the road, those vehicles that were made in the 1980s (before the second wave of vehicle security began) are still more likely to be stolen, even though they collectively make up less than 2%of vehicles on the road.
‘In other words, it appears as though vehicle security may still be keeping theft rates down, with only a few offenders bypassing the security to steal newer vehicles, and some thieves still seeking out older cars with weaker security.’
Dan Keel, press officer for the Home Office, says: ‘We’ve released the statistics to raise awareness within the classic car community so that something can be done about it.’
Most stolen 1980s classics:
Vauxhall Nova - 98 thefts per 10,000 vehicles
Ford Sierra - 78 thefts per 10,000 vehicles
Ford Escort MkII - 48 thefts per 10,000 vehicles
Peugeot 205 - 34 thefts per 10,000 vehicles
Peugeot 405 - 33 thefts per 10,000 vehicles
1950S CARS YOU CAN AFFORD TO LOVE
The numbers of 1950s cars at shows is dwindling. Classic Car Weekly's Nick Larkin shows you how to buck the trend with some affordable buys from the decade of rock ‘n’ roll.
Right you ‘orrible little readers. You’re back in the 1950s now so there’s no room for dithering, inaccuracy or acting the giddy goat. Are you of a nervous disposition? Tough!
Our subject today is motor cars, proper ones from a great era, and the purchase thereof. You weak-kneed layabouts of 2016 have been neglecting precious survivors in favour of vile, plastic filled rubbish from the 1980s and 90s, some even made in faraway foreign places such as France.
Treason! So we are going to teach you today about 1950s cars that most of you can afford with your strange modern money. It has been a major task to choose just ten so we’ve stuck to reasonably affordable models that are relatively easy to get hold of and maintain for under £10,000. Most importantly, they’re useable classics that won’t cost the earth to enjoy.
We have issued strict instructions to go for models introduced in the 1950s so have left out such glorious choices as the Wolseley 6/80 and the otherwise highly recommended Morris Minor which first sniffed the air in the 1940s.
Anything to whittle the number down to ten. The Mini, Anglia 105E, Triumph Herald and even the beloved BMC Farina are more associated with the 1960s, and what we are looking for here is cars loaded with 1950s stewed brisket and prunes on Sunday charm.
Solidly built, over-engineered and made with strong components, with the even the sidelight lenses having Made in England proudly emblazoned upon them. Big bouncy seats, polished wood and gleaming chrome on proper thick radiator grilles and bumpers, and, along with beautifully made badges.
Lovely simple mechanics and the delicious smell of hot engine mixed with warm leather or Vynide, and wonderful period dashboards and fittings. Original pre-suffix numberplates (they had better be!).
People tended to buy cars to keep long term in the ‘50s, not as something to dispose of two years later. So get off that settee, turn off the wireless, quick march and buy one of these cars. And get your hair cut while you’re at it!
AUSTIN A30/A35 (1951-1958)
A car absolutely certain to raise the same smile and as many ‘ooh’s’ as would the sight of a particularly fluffy kitten. It’s undeniably cute, with little chubby curves and a proud ‘flying A’ mascot on the tiny bonnet, which, this being such a friendly looking car, you could never imagine anyunfortunate pedestrian being impaled upon. Neither would an A30/5 ever pollute the air or leak oil, or at least you’d think so to look at them
Sorry reader(s) from Llandrindrod Wells or Macduff, but ‘Austin of England’ badges are also carried. Aww, look, teeny doors, especially when there are four, as opposed to two, little wheeltrims with Austin on.
Under all this is a surprisingly useable car, with rugged and reliable components. This especially applies to the A35 introduced in 1956, which has a 948cc version of the BMC A-series engine instead of the early car’s803cc, a stronger gearbox and a larger rear window.
Though not as fine handling as a Morris Minor, and certainly not Mini ‘chuckable,’ the A35 is predictable within its limits.
It’s also surprisingly spacious inside, if a tad narrow, with acceptable room for rear seat passengers. All this, and van and Countryman estate versions available too, along with excellent A30-A35 Owners Club support!
FORD 100E/107E (1953-1962)
Some cars have their own appeal that is a combination of many minor factors, no more so that the Ford 100E and the near identical, apart from one big difference, 107E.
It’s partly the styling, which is neat yet so period, with lovely details. And something about the size, which even to those of us who love big, bulbous vehicles just seems exactly right. Not too large or small, just perfect, maybe in the same way as BMC’s phenomenally successful 1100/1300 a decade later, originally have an Anglia (two door, basic) and Prefect (four door, bit less basic) both with 1172cc sidevalves. Basically a 1950s car with a 1930s engine, a three-gearbox and character galore. How about an early Anglia with three bar grille and kidney shaped instrument cluster. Basic heaven!
These cars were built at the rate of 100,000 a year and survived in fair numbers, although you’d be lucky to find an Escort or Squire estate today.
IN 1959 came the 100E Popular and also the model we recommend here, the 107E Prefect, looking identical to its predecessor but with the 997cc overhead valve engine and gearbox from the new Ford Anglia 105E. This makes a lot of difference, especially today, though all models are surprisingly useable around town.
FORD MK2 ZEPHYR (1956-1962)
Now it might be necessary to wave your £10,000 in cash temptingly in front of a vendor to get a good Zephyr for that money nowadays, but well worth it for this six-cylinder delight. Or you could go for a pristine example of sister car the four-cylinder Consul and have enough left over for a good lunch at Fortes.
Time has numbed the memory of the huge step forward the Mk1 versions of these cars had on the British market, with three box bodies, sleek styling and MacPherson struts. Compare them to an Austin Somerset and the word ‘revolution’ would come to mind,
In 1956 came the Mk2 range with was even more sleek and longer body, bigger engines and bigger engines, meaning the even the Consul could near 80mph,
But the six-cylinder Zephyr and even more luxurious Zodiac (to be honest above our price range and as for the convertible, er don’t even think about it) could nearly hit 90.
The cars were extremely well designed and their mechanics were super-reliable, a major achievement for Ford of Britain, and used proper thick metal. Zephyrs are no problem on any motorway and handling isn’t bad either, the ride being superb. Never dismiss these cars are barges for much ageing teddy boys. They are far more than that.
ROVER P5 3-Litre (1958-1967)
The Rover P5 in all its forms is among our all-time favourite classics, but we often wonder why so many people forget the lovely earlier cars in favour of the 1967 onwards P5B with its Yankee reject gas guzzling V8 engine. By 1958 the dear old P4 was looking a little aged, even the staid standards of the Rover Motor Company and its stripey suit man in the city average customer.
The P5 was even bigger and managed to be yet more imposing, and every inch a Rover. Every component was to the highest quality, and engineered for reliability at 90mph.
Inside was a wood and leather world, with sumptuous seats, a vast steering wheel with Rover central mascot, a work of art in itself, plush thick carpet and deep cloth headlining. Nothing comes close.
The well-proven Rover P4 engine was fitted in 2995cc form and if you get a manual car (recommended) there’s the ultimate in joyous Rover gear whine and the chance of topping 20mpg. Earliest cars had drum brakes but you could, and surely must nowadays get an example with servo assisted front brakes, Power steering didn’t arrive until 1960.
What a car, Imagine sitting in the back in 1958 reading The Times while proposing to your driver that those ‘ban the bombers’ should be clapped in irons and thrashed!
WOLSELEY 15/50 (1956-1958)
Here is surely one of the best classic compromises of all time, and great in its own right. Here is a car we often recommend to anyone wanting a proper classic of deep 1950s appeal but easy to maintain. We also love its sister car, the MG ZA/ZB Magnette but you’d be struggling to find a goodie for £10,000 nowadays and we think the Wolseley very much has its own appeal. In fact the visually almost identical Wolseley 4/44 (Let’s include this on the list too!) arrived first in 1952, featuring a 1250cc MG XPAG engine, a tad small maybe to power quite a heavy machine,
The 15/50 replaced this in 1956, but under the skin was a 1489cc BMC B-series engine, which would power countless models into the 1970s, and a floor rather than a column.
The overall package is superb, with beautiful Gerald Palmer-designed bodywork and an interior, down to the dashboard and seats similar to far bigger, thirstier and much more expensive Wolseleys. Mechanical spares are easy peasy, and here is a mid-size easy to manoeuvre model. Come to think of it is this car too good to be a compromise. Now we are confused and going to have one of our turns. Bring on the 1950s electric shock treatment!
MORRIS OXFORD SERIES II (1954-59)
The words ‘Morris Oxford’ seem to sum up cosy 1950s motoring even though cars bearing that name were made in other decades, not least the sidevalve MO Oxford built up to 1954.
We really love the Series II Oxford, which took over from 1954- 1956, and we can also include the slightly more chrome laden Series III (56-59) on our list, and the earlier Cowley, a basic Series II Oxford in 1200cc form.
Lovely roly-poly and are there not a couple of styling cues with a certain later BMC model some may remember as the Mini? Not surprising as one Mr A Issigonis was design genius of both cars.
Inside it’s a bit Mini-like too, with instruments in the middle of the dash. Of particular joy are the lovely squashy seats which you would just love to bounce up and down on for hours like a big kid in 1950s school uniform.
Rack and pinion steering and torsion bar suspension gave the car surprisingly good handling and visibility was really good too.
Today an Oxford is a joy to drive, won’t really show you up on A-roads, the gearchange isn’t bad, the brakes not startlingly wonderful but still okay if you feel like some exercise, why not stop for a seat bounce?
VAUXHALL VICTOR F-SERIES (1957-1961)
Mention Americans to those of us who lived through the 1950s and you’ll be harangued with tales of brash ‘Yanks’ who have everything bigger than us, and nicked our best ‘dames’ during the war.
We loved aspects of their culture however, and if we ridiculed US chrome laden monster cars but we still wanted some of their features in smaller digestible form, like Wimpy did hamburgers.
No purer example of this was there than the Vauxhall F-series Victor, some of the styling actually being carried out by GM in Detroit, which decided that a wrap around windscreen should be incorporated. The result did resemble a scaled-down Chevy but under the jazzy exterior were some sturdy proper British Vauxhall mechanics.
The 1508cc four-cylinder engine was new, and would soon gain an excellent reputation for toughness and reliability, as did the all-synchromesh three-speed gearbox. An anti-roll bar and Vauxhall manufactured hydraulic dampers helped make this a surpringly happy handling car.
Very much unhappy though was the car’s ability to rust, that Las Vegas styling hiding a near subterranean city of rust traps which soon burst out into salt-laden British roads. The car’s more chrome laden Super model has the almost shoot the creator mad idea of having the exhaust appear through the rear bumper, hardly a rustproofing brainwave, but loveable today.
SUNBEAM ALPINE(1959-1968)
It may look sporty as ‘eck but underneath the skin is basically a Hillman Husky/van derived platform. No Italian exotica can beat that and due to the inherent quality of Rootes products we are still talking about a very nice car. Most importantly, it’s the only 1950s vehicle of sports car appearance that falls within our price range. The ‘Frogeye’ Austin Healey Sprite, the obvious choice, having spiralled well above it in price.
The Alpine looks great, has independent front suspension, front discs, lever arm dampers and on its launch in 1959 a 1494cc engine from the Sunbeam Rapier. Plus proper big rear fins. Not the calmed down type of later models, which would also have larger engines.
The car is more than a match for the MGB, introduced three years and is a joy to drive, though the handling, never that bad, was later enhanced by a meatier anti-roll bar.
Alpines are extremely comfortable, well appointed and with a comprehensive display of instruments. It’s a wonder they weren’t marketed in the 1950s ‘as the sports car even a woman could drive,’ Under strict supervision of course.
Just like today 1950s motorist had the choice of losing their fillings bouncing along on some vast chassied all leaf sprung unrefined manly sports car or zipping merrily in a happy refined Alpine. A difficult choice?
HILLMAN MINX/SINGER GAZELLE SERIES I-VI (1956-1967)
Anything from 1950s Rootes is loaded with charm, style and as the company’s literature stated was ‘a better buy because it’s better built.’
So badge engineering was alive and well in Rootesville as when the new Hillman Minx was launched in 1956 you could also have a rather more plush mini limousine-likeSinger Gazelle, Rootes having just taken over that manufacturer. The earliest Gazelles had Singer engines, allegedly to use these up, but soon all were joined in 1390 and later 1494cc Series III harmony.
Rootes believed in regular styling updates, which is why the Series I-III versions represent the best bet at getting true 1950s charm. Each generation had differerent grilles, the late cars spouting larger tail fins, and there were several interior changes too.
Materials used were of good quality and often wonderfully period. Convertibles and estates were also available but rare today. The cars are all great to drive today but the bigger engine and brakes do put the Series IIIs at the front of the queue.
The are American cues in the styling, but the cars have so much British Rootsiness about them along with unbridled quality and charm. Drive one and you’ll almost forget you are in a mid-market product. And that’s just the Minx, never mind the cosseting Gazelle.
STANDARD 8/10/PENNANT (1953-1960)
Just to put you younger whippersnappers right, the marquee name ‘Standard’ meant the to an obviously high standard rather than basic spec. Standard Triumph had considerable success with its range of small four door cars in the 1950s and many felt they beat all rivals. Today these cars are largely forgotten, thus affordable. The deeply basic early 8 model came minus a boot lid, access being. via the rear seat. The 803cc Eight was joined by the 948cc Ten, which came with its own bootlid.
The cars gradually became less basic, overdrive becoming an option on some models. A Companion estate (what an apt name for such a friendly vehicle!) van and pick-up joined the range, outlasting car production which finished in 1960. The most honourable mention has to go to the Pennant of 1956, which has two tone paint, longer wings and a Paradise of a 1950s interior, which according to Standard had ‘self breathing Vynide upholstery. Heavy breathing, obviously. What a lovely thing, and useable too! The Standard Motor Club has been commenting on the lack of all these cars at events. Now, you know how to help put things right!
BARN FINDS - HOW TO UNEARTH HIDDEN TREASURES
All of the world's Ferrari 250 GTOs and Cobra Daytonas may be accounted for, but there are plenty of other classic cars left to be discovered. Don't let anyone tell you there's nothing left out there. We've heard enough reliable and tantalising tales to know that not to be true. Here are our top ten tips on how to unearth hidden treasures:
1. Look out for open garage doors - especially at weekends and on summer evenings when householders are more likely to be outside doing DIY or gardening. You'd be amazed at some of the things you can spot. Just last month during an after-dinner dog walk Russ Smith from our sister newspaper Classic Car Weekly chanced upon a Lotus Elan +2 less than 400 yards from his house. Apparently it's been there for years, but sadly it isn't for sale. At the moment.
2. Both local papers and the internet are good sources of information for when on-site house clearance sales are being held. Look especially for anything involving farms or larger rural properties, and the word 'deceased'. You won't be making the discovery of anything that might be lurking in barns or garages, but may put yourself at the head of the car enthusiast pack and be the first to know the value of what you find there.
3. Let your classic do the talking. You already know what a conversation starter it is, so use that when you head out searching. Stop in prominent places where people will be, like outside village shops, or during lunchtimes or evenings outside our dwindling supply of rural pubs. And when you do get people talking, drop into the conversation that you are interested in finding other old cars.
4. At risk of sounding obvious, look for clues. Older cars, either sat gathering dust or even still in use, outside a given property is often indicative of further machinery parked indoors, especially where farm buildings are involved. Even incongruous collectibles like an old phone box or rusty petrol pump can point to there being more to be found in those barns than tractor attachments and bags of feed.
5. You can do a fair bit of groundwork from the comfort of your home (or, ahem, office) computer before setting off on your vintage tin hunt. Zoom in on those remote, farmy areas using Google Earth or bing.com/maps. The resolution isn't great, but if you see a row or random collection of vehicles where you don't expect one, that has to be a spot that's worthy of further investigation.
6. While you're at the screen, monitor online auctions, classified ad sites and forums. Anything classic with an apparently low asking price and 'for spares or restoration' is worth following up. And always watch forr the magic 'bereavement' word. Even if that particular car doesn't turn out to be of great interest, it may be just one of a collection of cars, and the seller may also be tapped into other old cars in their area - never pass up a chance to gather information. People like to talk.
7. Take a look behind long-established general garages and vehicle repair workshops, more so if you know or have heard them to be classic friendly. Interesting cars are often retained in lieu of non-payment for repair work and then left to just rot. Often with the best of intentions. Garage owners are also well-known for putting stuff away for themselves as a planned retirement project or to fill quiet moments that never materialise. A DB5 project recently came to market after just such a garage owner died. Where possible find out who owns the land - never trespass on private property.
8. Take your classic to some of those displays that are held as part of larger events like country shows, fetes and so on, and stay with it in an easy-to-chat position. you shouldhave a fairly non-specialist audience, and for every 50-or-so 'I had one of those' type comments, there may just be an 'I/my dad/uncle/brother-in-law/neighbour has one like that mouldering away that I've/they've never got round to.' Russ has bagged a whole car that way.
9. At the risk of sounding a bit devious and cynical is something that really requires ownership of a decent SLR camera. You may find people talk more openly if you pose as a photographer wanting to take photos of cars in barns and happy to reveal their secret locations (like you would anyway!). No harm, then, in leaving a card on your way out and saying 'Thanks, and if you ever do decide to sell...'
10. This may sound a bit old-school, but remember the kind of people you are trying to encounter may be just that. Place a 'wanted' ad in specialist rural interest and/or local press for old vehicles or parts thereof. It only takes one hit...
Dos and Don’ts
DO gain permission from the owner before you venture on their land
DO be prepared to get dirty and meet all kinds of wildlife
DO take a friend, for various safety-related reasons
DO remember to take secateurs for undergrowth and a stick for cobwebs etc
DO be realistic about finds – it that car really worth saving or will a photo do?
DON’T trespass, however tempting that barn just a few yards away looks
DON’T take photos on private land without the owner’s permission
DON’T mislead the owner about your intentions or the car’s value
DON’T interfere with probate – you could get into a lot of trouble
DON’T expect to find exotics, it’s rare. Be happy with A30s and Minors!
SORT YOUR CLASSIC FOR SUMMER
Don’t tolerate a shabby or unruly classic this summer. Fuzz Townshend shows you how to bring your charge up to scratch - job-by-job...
Hurrah! It’s that time of year again, the time when we clear the cardboard boxes from the roofs of our classics, jump inside and inhale that much missed cocktail of stale fuel, cold oil, mildew and ancient rubber, perhaps with a splash of dry leather or cracked PVC thrown in too.
Pop the key into the ignition switch, turn it and marvel at how those contacts fizz before making good the battery connections with a tap from the heel of your shoe and trying again.
Set the choke out halfway, three pumps on the accelerator, then press the starter button, one more pump on the gas and pull the choke knob fully, as the engine catches its breath and you nurse it toward a steady tick-over, with well-timed blips of the throttle…
For many classic car owners these ‘foibles’ are a part of everyday life but it doesn’t need to be like this. Getting your car running perfectly will leave you to enjoy the remainder of the season doing the important bit; driving it.
Much essential fettling can easily be undertaken in your own garage or on a driveway, so here are 20 tips that should make your car feel like its new self again, and help you avoid standing in shame on the hard shoulder…
01 FIT THE CORRECT TYRES
Chubby tyres that fill wheelarches have been the look for cars we now regard as classics since the mid 1960s. But back then the folks chasing this look were burly enough to wrestle an eight-wheeled Leyland Octopus tanker through tiny streets without the aid of power assisted steering.
Nowadays, to the modern driver – and that includes you former 60s and 70s youngsters – older classics fitted with fat rims and modern tyres will handle like a container ship with a welded rudder.
Heading back to the original design and fitting correct specification tyres will bring a revelation in road manners, that’ll have you falling in love with your car all over again.
Predictable and fun tail-end action, combined with lighter steering and reduced unsprung weight will all combine to reinstate pleasure, with a side effect of less wear to steering and braking components.
WHAT’S THE POINT? Better, more precise handling, with lighter steering and that original look.
FUZZ’S DIFFICULTY RATING: 1 Spanner
IT’LL COST YOU: From £60.00 per tyre plus fitting and balancing
02 FIT ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION
From the dawn of internal combustion, folks have been trying to squeeze a little more payback from the fuel put in.
Ram-air, turbochargers and supercharging can all play a part, but perhaps one of the most significant modifications to a standard classic car is fitting a computer controlled electronic fuel injection system.
Now, before you choke on your false teeth, let’s get things straight. This modification is entirely reversible, although it does involve fitting high and low pressure fuel pumps, a fuel return line, inertia fuel cut-off switch, swirl pot, ECU, etc.
It’s not a simple task, but it is doable if you’ve undertaken your own carburettor rebuilds and fitted electronic ignition. Being able to use a laptop is also essential.
WHAT’S THE POINT? Liberate your car’s engine’s potential by doing what its manufacturer would have done.
FUZZ’S DIFFICULTY RATING: 4 Spanners
IT’LL COST YOU: From around £1000 to £10,000
03 FIT ELECTRONIC IGNITION
Stop the bloomin’ press. If the suggestion of computer controlled electronic fuel injection (EFI) was too much for you, perhaps the way forward is electronic ignition.
What’s the difference? EFI uses multiple sensors to determine the exact amount of fuel to supply via injectors at precisely the correct time and when to ignite it. Electronic ignition just deals with the spark bit.
Anything involving mechanical event timing is likely to be suspect because of physical wear, so electronic ignition eliminates three potential stumbling points in a classic petrol engine’s set-up.
Gone is the wearing heel of the points’ cam follower, as are the carbon points contacts and the condenser to stop arcing between the latter.
This technology was deemed radical enough to be used as a selling point for cars built between the mid-1970s and mid-1980s. Now, it’s almost forgotten, except by us nerds.
WHAT’S THE POINT? Rid your car of the electro-mechanical stumbling blocks of points and a condenser.
FUZZ’S DIFFICULTY RATING: 2 Spanners
IT’LL COST YOU: £40 to £400
IT’LL TAKE YOU: Between 1 and 2 working days.
04 DISC FRONT BRAKES
Around sixty years ago, cars fitted with disc brakes wore warning badges on their rumps to let drivers of lesser vehicles know of the prodigious stopping power.
Gradually, disc brakes became the province of humble vehicles and installations may easily be retro-fitted to vehicles sharing the same lineage.
Expect to purchase and fit new stub axles, brake calipers, discs and pads, as well as a more capacious master cylinder.
WHAT’S THE POINT? When a modern car pulls an emergency stop in front, you can avoid an embarrassing exchange of details.
FUZZ’S SPANNER RATING: 3 Spanners
IT’LL COST YOU: £200 to £2000+
IT’LL TAKE YOU: Between 1 and 5 working days.
05 LUBRICATE THE STEERING
While some folks are scoffing at my half a day estimate of time needed to lubricate a steering system, let me say that, to achieve maximum benefits, this process needs to be undertaken properly, with stress removed from various components to allow full flow of lubricant into the areas requiring it.
Some vehicles use thick oil for steering lubrication, while others use grease or a combination of the two in different places.
First, check out the manufacturer’s specifications and then ensure that load and frictional contact is removed by jacking up the vehicle allowing the steered wheels to lift from the floor, before inserting lubricant using a grease or oil gun.
Operate the steering and then lubricate once more, making sure the lubricant has penetrated all areas.
Heavy steering may not be a result of poor lubrication alone. Always check tyre pressures, tyre types and steering geometry.
WHAT’S THE POINT? Without adequate lubrication, your car’s steering will become heavy and imprecise.
FUZZ’S DIFFICULTY RATING: 1 Spanner
IT’LL COST YOU: £10 to £50 (including grease gun).
IT’LL TAKE YOU: 0.5 working days.
06 RENEW YOUR BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER
Many is the time that I have come across a classic car that has needed one push on the pedal to prime the brakes and another to achieve full operational and stopping power. Sometimes this is down to a slight fluid leak in the system, but another potential cause is a master cylinder of inadequate capacity.
With hydraulic braking systems fluid must move through pipework to operate the brakes at each wheel. If the master cylinder is of insufficient displacement to operate wheel cylinders and brake calipers, this ‘double pump’ action may become necessary.
Knowing the exact bore and travel of wheel cylinders and calipers will assist with the choice of brake master cylinder capacity. Beware though, as an oversized cylinder can cause the seals to be overcome and complete brake failure.
WHAT’S THE POINT? Buying a car in seemingly good trim doesn’t mean that all is well in every department
FUZZ’S DIFFICULTY RATING: 3 Spanners
IT’LL COST YOU: £20 upwards
IT’LL TAKE YOU: Roughly 1 working day.
07 VARIABLE SPEED WINDSCREEN WIPERS
I love windscreen wipers. Those little arcs of clarity in an otherwise blurred world are something of an endless fascination to me, as sad as it may sound. I’d be happy with each tiny wiper operating randomly from an individual motor, without an automatic park facility, but I admit that that isn’t likely to be much help when trailing a fat tyred modern hatchback, chucking out as much slurry as a Shropshire farmer on a muck-spreading May afternoon.
Intermittent wipers are a start and such action can be had using a few proprietary components available from decent electrical stores.
Use of a wiper motor from a more modern vehicle can also give enhanced operational functions, as well as more rain, spray and crap-shifting power.
However, one sure fire way of making sure that your car’s wipers will cope with shifting the slurry, is to slow down.
WHAT’S THE POINT? Forward vision is everything when driving any vehicle
FUZZ’S DIFFICULTY RATING: 3 Spanners
IT’LL COST YOU: £10 to £500
IT’LL TAKE YOU: Between 0.25 and 5 working days.
08 ALTER THE CAR'S GEARING
So many road routes have been altered over the past 20 years that it can be difficult to follow the smaller roads more suited to many classic cars. Even drivers of relatively modern classics may find themselves thrashing their car’s engine at around 3500-4000rpm for all of 70mph.
Simply raising the ratio of the final drive can leave cars with a lacklustre getaway potential, often resulting in the need for an additional gear ratio, so often a final drive change can require a gearbox change too.
The power packed by the car’s engine will also have an influence on outcome, meaning that some cars will still be eminently driveable with everything in original trim barring the final drive ratio.
WHAT’S THE POINT? Many classic cars reach a thrashing maximum speed of 60 to 80 mph, rendering them stretched on today’s roads.
FUZZ’S DIFFICULTY RATING: 5 Spanners
IT’LL COST YOU: £100 to £10,000
IT’LL TAKE YOU: Between 1 and 12 working days.
09 VALVE CLEARANCES AND CYLINDER COMPRESSION
The power derived from your car’s engine is in part down to the compression in each cylinder and the time allowed for air and fuel to enter the combustion chamber.
Poor compression may be the result of worn or broken piston rings, or poorly seated and perhaps corroded valves. Worn cylinder bores may also be a part of this scenario.
The first step is to ensure that the valve clearances are correct, thus eliminating any low compression readings caused by overtight or non-existent clearances.
Once this is done a cylinder compression tester can be used in turn on each cylinder to ascertain the internal condition of the bore area.
Poor valve clearance figures can be resolved by adjustment, but unsatisfactory results from the compression test not due to adjustment will likely result in major engineering work being necessary.
WHAT’S THE POINT? More power and efficiency.
FUZZ’S DIFFICULTY RATING: 3 Spanners
IT’LL COST YOU: £20 to £50 in tools
IT’LL TAKE YOU: 0.5 working days.
10 ADJUST YOUR CAR'S TYRE PRESSURES
Tyre pressures are one of the most fundamental aspects of a car’s handling. If they’re wrong, it is wrong.
I’ve already had a rant about correct tyres, but it’s all for nothing, if they’re not correctly inflated. Low pressures, especially in early design radials, can lead to heavy steering and dreadful cornering characteristics.
Over inflation can lead to halfpenny sized contact areas twixt tyre and road, which can be made even worse if applied to relatively unyielding cross-ply tyres.
However, if you’re out for a spot of trialing, those low pressures may help you win, so it’s horses for courses.
If your car is fitted with non-original specification tyres, please remember that obtaining the correct tyre pressure may be down to hearsay, rather than scientific fact. Personally, I’d opt for originality.
WHAT’S THE POINT? Correct tyre pressures lead to correct handling.
FUZZ’S DIFFICULTY RATING: 1 Spanner
IT’LL COST YOU: £0.20
IT’LL TAKE YOU: 10 minutes
11 FIT POWER ASSISTED STEERING
There are now a multitude of power steering upgrades available to owners of many classic car types and if age or illness is making driving difficult these can make all the difference.
Some kits use an electric motor, as found on some smaller modern cars, to assist the turning of the steering column and these can be less demanding to fit.
When it comes to fitting hydraulically assisted steering, things can get a bit more involved, including the welding of new brackets, etc.
Because it’s your car’s steering that we’re talking about, it is absolutely crucial that any fabrication is of the highest quality, as a lot of stress and strain will be inflicted on all aspects of the equipment.
If there is any doubt about the skills of the fitter, run away and find a professional.
WHAT’S THE POINT? Make parking a pure pleasure with added power.
FUZZ’S DIFFICULTY RATING: 4 Spanners
IT’LL COST YOU: £600 to £2500 plus fitting
IT’LL TAKE YOU: Between 2 and 10 working days.
12 FIT A SERVO ASSISTED BRAKE SYSTEM
Giving your car’s braking system a bit of extra oomph is especially relevant in today’s world of ‘stop on a sixpence’ traffic and in situations where a modern car unwittingly pulls out into your previously well-judged comfortable stopping zone, leaving you to pile your antique death-horror box into the rear of that brand new Audi A3. The galling tuts of witnessing motorists would ring in your ears for months.
Fitting a remote servo could help you to avoid such situations, giving your car more pressure at the caliper or wheel cylinder for the same amount of pedal effort.
Servo kits can be had relatively inexpensively, but fitting one will need to be undertaken by someone competent and experienced, as some pipework alteration will be necessary.
Vacuum assistance for the servo is taken from the inlet manifold, so you may find a need to remove this and have a suitable take-off adapter fitted.
WHAT’S THE POINT? Increase your classic’s braking power
FUZZ’S SPANNER RATING: 3 Spanners
IT’LL COST YOU: £80 to £150
IT’LL TAKE YOU: Between 1 and 2 working days.
13 HAVE YOUR CAR DYNAMICALLY TUNED
Getting your car dynamically tuned on a rolling road by operators used to working with classic cars and carburetors is extremely pleasing. But do your homework and find somewhere that really does understand that your car’s engine isn’t designed to hold together beyond 5000rpm.
A good facility should have all the means to rebuild, re-jet or re-needle carburetors on site, as well as carrying a stock of points or replacement upgrades, high powered coils, new HT leads, etc. My personal favourite is Aldon Automotive, in Brierley Hill, West Midlands.
Before taking your car along, make sure the engine is in top nick and that the cooling system is up to scratch, with good hoses and sound radiator matrices, as they will be put to hard work during the tuning process.
Also, be certain that the tyres on the driven wheels are in good, sound condition. They’ll be doing the equivalent of your car’s top speed.
WHAT’S THE POINT? Better power and fuel economy.
FUZZ’S SPANNER RATING: 1 Spanner
IT’LL COST YOU: From around £300.00 plus parts
IT’LL TAKE YOU: 1 working day.
14 UPGRADE YOUR COOLING/HEATING
Cooling systems are often neglected, but they are the engine’s life-support mechanism, and when they fail one can find one’s self in the Big Spends department.
Fresh hoses and new clips are a good start, but treating the entire system to a comprehensive flush can remove old debris and restore cooling capacity.
Add a new, high performance radiator and heater matrix pairing and your car will not only run at a steady temperature, but the cabin will be a better place to be, especially if your car is a convertible.
Don’t forget to renew or renovate heater taps or valves. They often look alright from the outside, but are corroded beyond function on the inside.
Ditto with the thermostat, although you can check your car’s current item by warming it up in the best pan in the kitchen, using that lovely chef’s thermometer to register its operation.
WHAT’S THE POINT? Enjoy trouble free, long distance motoring while reaping the benefits of toasty tootsies.
FUZZ’S DIFFICULTY RATING: 3 Spanners
IT’LL COST YOU: From around £180.00
IT’LL TAKE YOU: Between 1 and 4 working days.
15 FIT NEW BODY SEALS
If you’ve noticed any damp patches in your car’s carpet, the problem may not emanate from below. Typically, front and rear screen seals have long lives, with owners shying from replacing them due to the risk of breaking the glass. Consequently the rubber ends up hard and fails to do its job properly.
This leads to water seeping through tiny gaps and nestling in cosy body cavities, until it finds its way through the resulting rusted panel and onto your Hush-Puppies.
If you’re going to give replacing these items a go, have a friend on hand for assistance and so that you can blame them if it all goes wrong.
Door and side window seals often are still in place way beyond their intended lifespan. Rattling drop glasses and high-pitched whistling whilst driving are key signs that something is awry.
WHAT’S THE POINT? Banish unwanted breezes and uninvited water ingress from your car’s cockpit.
FUZZ’S DIFFICULTY RATING: 4 Spanners
IT’LL COST YOU: From around £100
IT’LL TAKE YOU: Between 3 and 6 working days.