KEEP YOUR CLASSIC SQUEAKY CLEAN

Top tips on cleaning your classic...

1 Hose it down

Don’t go steaming straight in there with the shampoo, Mister Keen to Clean – apply the initial cleansing with a hosepipe to wash away all those gritty bits of grime that can scratch your car’s paint if you go in prematurely with a sponge and foamy stuff. Make sure you flush out all the car’s drainage channels on the roof and around the bonnet, where leaves and other debris can gather and eventually cause rot if left to fester. Other crud-attracting areas, especially wheelarches, should be given a thorough hosing – pressure washers aren’t usually necessary unless you’re cleaning a muddy 4x4; they can be too brutal, blasting off delicate paint and chromework if you’re not careful.

 

2 De-grime the wheels

Wheels are real filth-attractors and prone to getting caked in brake dust. Best to give them a once-over now, so all that grime gets washed away before you start getting down to properly cleaning the rest of the car. Regular old detergent or car shampoo and plenty of elbow grease will do the trick, although there are plenty of specialised wheel cleaners on the market that make the job a lot easier.

 

3 Time to get foamy

Now’s the time to get your bucket of warm water with added detergent/car shampoo and sponge down all the bodywork and brightwork. Clean one panel at a time, be methodical so you don’t leave yourself open to any ‘Missed a bit!’ jibes, and for best effect go with the lines of the car rather than doing it in a lot of swirly patterns. Use a toothbrush/detailing brush for any hard-to-get-into panel gaps. Then wash it all off again with clean, cold water using a hose or bucket.

 

4 Shimmy with the chamois

Dry off the excess water using a chamois leather. Once again, go with the lines of the car. Rinse the chamois out in a bucket of clean, cold water and wring it out regularly, changing the water if it gets too clouded with dirt. It’s worth spending a bit of extra time on this stage, to avoid streaking and to make sure there are no residual drops of H20 lurking beneath bits of trim that will cause streaks when you initiate the final polishing stage.

 

5 Bring on the shine

Best to prime yourself with a cup of tea and a few chocolate biscuits before embarking on this stage, because this is where you’ll be working up a sweat if you’re doing a proper job. Whatever you do, don’t over-apply your chosen polish/wax or it will take you a month of Sundays to polish it all off again – and you’ll probably do your shoulder/arm/back a mischief in the process. Use the product sparingly – you can always add more later if it doesn’t have the desired effect. Use soft, lint-free cloths to apply and polish off, once again following the lines of the car using a smooth, flowing motion.

 

6 Make the trim tip-top

Any chrome and/or plastic trim will now be begging to get the same treatment as the paintwork, so don’t leave it waiting any longer. Using the appropriate cleaning product, give it all the attention it deserves. Now you’ll feel like standing back and giving yourself a soupçon of well-deserved, non-triumphalist self-congratulation. But hang on, Mister, not just yet – one more thing to do…

 

7 When I’m cleaning windows

No good polishing your car to a high shine but leaving the windows so dirty you can’t see other motorists’ admiring glances! Take your pick – common-or-garden water with added lemon juice to cut through the grime or dedicated window cleaning liquid, either will do the job. Just make sure you do inside as well as outside – it’s surprising how greasy and grubby the inside of car windows can get.

 

8 Enjoy the fruits of your labours

OK, now’s the time to put your hands on your hips, puff your chest out and apply those admiring glances to your own handiwork. And maybe go out for a spin, so everyone else can feast their eyes on your car at its very best.   

HOW TO AVOID SCAMS WHEN BUYING OR SELLING YOUR CAR

Trade safely - avoid known scams

Here at ClassicCarsForSale.co.uk we strive to deliver the best service to our customers. It is nonetheless a sad fact of life that scams and fraud are a common occurrence these days. Scams rely on victims being duped into giving away their money and maybe their personal details. The best way to avoid getting scammed therefore is to recognise and report it in the first place. To that end, below are the best practice tips to avoid getting scammed:

  • Don't give out your personal details or bank account details over email. Be wary of emails asking you to confirm or supply website login or credit card details.
  • Find out as much as you can about the product and ideally inspect it in person
  • Always try to confirm the identity of a seller. Scammers will typically hide behind generic email accounts and conduct 'negotiations' anonymously via email. They will often use an answer phone message or text message to get an enquirers email account and then continue 'discussions' via email, so always try to establish telephone contact with the seller first and confirm their identity.
  • Be wary of items advertised at unusually low prices. If an offer seems too good to be true, it often is. A common scam involves potential buyers being sent an email containing detailed information on a vehicle supposedly located abroad. Once contact is established, the scammer pressures the buyer into making a smaller payment to view the vehicle.
  • Do not put any monies into foreign bank accounts. Another common scam involves bogus overseas sellers contacting you directly or pretending to be from a reputable organisation.
  • Hoax, counterfeit, bogus and stolen items can occasionally slip through and appear to be real listings. It is important to read the advertisement description carefully and ask questions. It is common for fraudsters to ask for contact via another email address and then ask for payment for goods by non-traceable means. If a seller does not offer a warranty or receipt, find out why.

 Trade safely - recommended payment methods

Some payment options offer more protection than others, so be sure to select a payment method that you're comfortable with. Walk away from the deal if you're not happy with the payment arrangement.

Good payment options include:

  • Pay on pick-up - good for higher value goods and for local buying. You'll be able inspect the goods to ensure they are as advertised.
  • Cash - used for thousands of years and still going strong. We suggest you get a receipt.
  • Cheque - recommended if agreeable to the seller. You give or send the seller a personal or bank cheque to pay for the item. Most banks will allow you to cancel a cheque before it is cashed if a problem arises.
  • Internet bank payment - deposit the payment directly into the seller's bank account through internet banking. You've got the seller's bank account number, which is of course traceable. Do not put any monies into foreign bank accounts.
  • Credit card - you can benefit from your credit card's protection clauses. However, we suggest you find out the detail of the protection from your credit card issuer before you commit.

Only deal with sellers that you consider trustworthy.

Only buy something if you're confident it's genuine and ideally only after you've seen it in person.

Never part with any money - even a small deposit - until you feel the previous two points have been met.

More comprehensive advice is available at the Citizen's Advice Bureau: here

CLASSIC CARS AND THE MOT TEST

Depending on your viewpoint, the MoT test is either a welcome yearly check of your car’s roadworthiness and street-legality or an annual pain and a drain on your finances. Lucky owners of cars manufactured before 1960 don’t have to endure the 12-monthly checkover – their cars are exempt from compulsory MoT testing, although some in the former camp continue to take their car for the annual inspection for their own peace of mind.

This is an overview of the MoT test as it applies to classic cars, including the important exemptions. At the bottom of this guide we’ve included links to websites that will give you more specific information about all elements of the test.

General points to bear in mind are that you can get an MoT up to a month (minus a day) before your current MoT runs out, and still keep the same renewal date. You can only legally drive your vehicle on the road if the MoT has run out only if you are driving it to or from somewhere to be repaired, or to a pre-arranged MoT test. The maximum charge for an MoT, stipulated by law, is £54.85, although many testing stations charge less.

The best long-term plan of action is to find an MoT tester you can trust who is happy to discuss the requirements of the test and explain any failure points he discovers – and stick with him. In this way, the tester will get to know you and the car, and you’ll be better informed about your car’s state of health. If the tester spots something that isn’t currently bad enough for an MoT failure, he may put an ‘advise’ on the MoT readout to make you aware of the fault and the fact it should be addressed before the next MoT test. 

 

Seat belts

Most pre-1965 cars are not required by law to have seatbelts, but for most post-’65 cars and all older cars that have had seatbelts retro-fitted, the belts must be in good condition with no frays, correctly functioning buckles and solid corrosion-free mounting points. If they are fitted with a retraction mechanism, it must work properly. Since 1965, when cars were first required to have seatbelt mounting-points fitted by law, various other regulations have come in concerning the amount of belts fitted and their type. The seats themselves must also be firmly secured. If you’re unsure of the situation for your car, either ask your MoT tester when you book the test or go to the relevant website at the bottom of this guide.

 

Emissions

The emissions test for classics is much more tolerant than for modern cars. Basically, if there’s no visible smoke on tickover (with the choke off) and the exhaust doesn’t kick out excessive carbon monoxide, you should be OK. And if you your car is smoking out the MoT testing garage, it’s time to take remedial action anyway. Exhausts and manifolds should be hole- and leak-free.

 

Corrosion

All structural areas of the car must be in sound condition, and any mounting points for suspension, steering or seat belts must be solid for 30cm around that area. Bear in mind that the tester will be poking around under the car with a big screwdriver to look for rust holes. Classic failure areas are sills, subframes, floorpans, inner wings, bulkheads and A/B-pillars. Cars with separate chassis should have the body properly attached to the chassis. In addition, there shouldn’t be any sharp or jagged edges on the bodywork that could cause serious damage to a pedestrian in a crash.

 

Brakes

Foot and handbrakes need to work properly with no pulling to either side and no binding. There should be no leaks in the brake lines, master cylinder or slave cylinders. All brake components should be securely fitted.

 

Steering

Should work as intended, with no excessive play at the steering wheel or at the road wheels. Generally speaking, steering boxes are allowed a little more play at the steering wheel than steering racks – and some boxes can be adjusted. Power steering systems must be leak-free. All elements of the steering system should be fastened to the car securely. The tester will go through the whole steering system, including all the joints, looking for any slack that will induce a fail. Excessive play in any of the wheel bearings will also cause the car to fail its test.  

 

Suspension

The ‘bounce test’ is a good way to see if your suspension is working properly. Bounce each corner of the car in turn; if the body carries on bouncing, the shock absorbers/dampers are worn and will cause an MoT fail – there should be no leaks and no play in suspension linkages.

 

Wheels and tyres

Wheels should be in good condition with no serious cracks or corrosion; tyres should have at least the minimum legal depth of tread – 1.6mm in a continuous band around the central three quarters of the tyre.

 

Instruments and lights

Headlights must work correctly, with the correct aim on full and dip beam. Rear lights, indicators, brake lights, hazard flashers and numberplate lights must all be working correctly, as should any visual or aural readouts on the dashboard. Windscreen wipers should work correctly with no splits in the blades and windscreen washers should work and be correctly aimed.

 

Miscellaneous

Any cracks in the windscreen in the driver’s field of vision will cause a fail, as will a non-functioning horn. The bonnet catch and and that on the bootlid or hatch should open and lock. All doors must work from both inside and out. The registration plate must be appropriate for the year of the vehicle – only cars registered before 1973 can use the old black and white plates. The VIN/chassis plate must be fitted, easily read and tie-in with your previous MoT (usually a computerised check these days). The speedometer must work.

 

Good luck!

TAXING YOUR CLASSIC CAR NEEDN'T BE TAXING

Pretty-much every small-ad for a classic seems to reference its 'cheap tax' or 'tax-free status', but sometimes it's not as clear-cut as it seems. With new rules stipulating that tax cannot be transferred with the car, it's a good time to remind yourself of how much you'll be expected to pay when you buy your next classic, given that you'll have to sort out the tax when you pick up the car regardless of when the last owner taxed it.

In every case it's possible to pay either a one-off annual lump sum, two payments every six months, or a monthly direct-debit. The tax you're eligible for varies depending on when your car was built, and its engine characteristics. Let's break these down by date:

 

40-year rolling exemption (currently pre- 1 January 1975)

If your car is over 40 years old, then it's tax-exempt. You'll still need to fill in the tax form on the gov.uk/vehicle-tax website, but you won't have to pay anything.

 

Engine size-based taxation (currently 1975-28 February 2001)

For cars built between the 40-year exemption cutoff and March 1 2001 – up to but not including Y-prefix registrations – tax rates are calculated based on displacement. There are only two bands – below and above 1549cc – and these rates are currently £145 per year for the small-engined cars, £230 for larger ones. 

 

First wave of CO2 emission-based taxation (1 March 2001-23 March 2006)

The tax structure was switched to an emissions-based system in 2001 with 11 separate bands, and revised in 2006. Although it sounds initially as though it has the implication to add hundreds of pounds to the annual running costs of 'dirtier' old performance cars, it's worth pointing out that the highest 2001-6 band – K – for cars emitting in excess of 201kg of Co2 per kilometre, is currently £280 per year. This is just £50 higher than the top rate for the largest of 1975-2001 engines. In reality, given that manufacturers did their best to avoid lumbering their customers with excessive levels of taxation, most motorists ended up paying less under the new regime. Any car emitting less than 150g/km – the vast majority including several high-performance cars – incurs a lower tax bill than an old sub-1549cc engine.

 

Second wave of CO2 emission-based taxation (23 March 2006-date)

In 2006, following an EU directive encouraging cleaner engines, two additional tax bands were added for the most heavily-polluting vehicles, with rates at almost double those of Band K. Cars generating between 226 and 255g/km are now eligible for £480 tax per year, and anything in excess of 255 incurs an eye-watering annual £495 bill. 

Although many of the cars affected are rare supercars, where high running costs are expected and strong residual values effectively restrict ownership to the well-heeled anyway; it's worth pointing out that these tax rates have the potential to severely hamper the appeal of a whole generation of second-hand luxury cars and even some more affordable performance cars. Big V8 Jaguars, Mercedes, BMWs, Range Rovers and the like will all be eligible for the near-£500 annual charges, as will other, cheaper cars that derive their performance via sheer cubic inches, such as grey–import American muscle cars and Japanese beasts like the Nissan 370Z.

However, it is worth pointing out that the turbocharger - and its development in motor sport – is proving to be the saviour of the high–performance engine. By extracting more torque from smaller engines without increasing emissions, the addition of turbochargers and a trend for downsizing means that some of the world's fastest supercars are as 'clean' as the smallest superminis. As more manufacturers go down the forced-induction route, the more of us will avoid big-engined mega-tax. However, unfortunately some future classics will always fall foul of Bands L and M in a manner that may harm their value and usability as fun cars.

 

SORN and Direct Debit – the saviour of thirsty classics?

If you're taking a car off the road for a period of time, be it for restoration or to protect it over winter, you can get a Statutory Off-Road Notification (SORN), which will ensure it won't incur a tax bill while it's not being used. Go to gov.uk or your local post office and fill in a V890 form, which will register the vehicle as not currently in use. By keeping the car on a SORN, then setting up your road tax on a monthly direct-debit basis when it is being used, you can minimise your tax bill and effectively pay as you drive.

AUCTION BUYING ADVICE FROM CCFS ANALYST RICHARD HUDSON-EVANS

Go to auctions and see what happens before becoming a player. If unfamiliar with the world’s second oldest commercial activity, the best advice has to be - familiarise yourself with the auction process, not just on the internet, but by attending some sales ‘live’ first, and certainly do so before attempting to bid and buy a car with a lot number on it. Details of forthcoming auctions can be found here and in weekly issues of our sister newspaper, Classic Car Weekly.

To filter out tyre kickers and to provide plenty of room without crowding for the genuinely interested to view, you will need to purchase a catalogue, which admits two to viewing and sale days and can cost from £5 for a simple print-off job, can typically be £20 or so, up £60 or more for a hardback collector item, which may also include admission for two to the main event at which the auction is a supporting cart.


Researching which car could be for you will be time well spent. Do your home work on the computer and in the mags first to establish precisely which make and model or type of car you think you might quite like to own before competing for one at auction. What exactly does ownership involve, and is there a club or a register to help owners? Find out, if you can, what can go wrong and what to look out for. Are there specialists who can fix or revive one and what’s the parts availability like? And what are the current retail prices in private owner classifieds and traders display ads?


Reserve or No Reserve. Cars entered for auction are usually, though not always protected by reserves, the minimum amount that would be acceptable to the vendor. The auctioneer will orchestrate the bidding any way he can and it is he (rarely ‘she’in the old car bear pit) who determines and announces the increments he goes up in, and he who accepts or refuses any alternative offers from the floorup to that reserve figure. At this crucial point in the game, he will either bring down the gavel and sell the car on the block for that figure - the buyer paying this amount plus whatever rate of buyer’s premium the auction firm charges for cars (from 5-21% in Europe), and the VAT on same (20-25%) - or he will declare that the lot is now "on sale" and will hope to encourage further bidding before hammering it away. Still the exception rather than the rule at most auctions held in the UK is the ‘No Reserve’ lot, which is auctioned entirely without any reserve at all and is therefore "on sale" from the first to the last and highest bid.


Auctioneers’ Guide Prices. ‘Guide Prices’ are just that, the auctioneers’ pre-sale estimate band ranging from the likely minimum bid required to buy a car to a possible maximum that it might make. The lower estimate is usually, though not in every case, a guide to the likely reserve. It is the level of interest and strength of bidding on sale day that will always determines the final price paid for a car at auction, of course.   ID and bank details you will need to provide before you can bid. When you finally go to an auction, fully prepared to buy a car you have spotted coming up on-line or in a catalogue, you will certainly need to take along some acceptable form of ID, a photo-driving licence and/or a passport and utility bill, to comply with money laundering regulations and to satisfy the bidder registration requirements. Before travelling to the sale, check with the auctioneers as to what you will need to do in advance to satisfy them, that firstly you have access to sufficient funds to pay for a car. Ye olde wads of notes are rarely acceptable anymore and a combination of Money Laundering regs, plus new house rules, now limits the size of cash payments that are acceptable. And secondly, you need to find in advance which items of ID documentation you should take with you. Once you are ‘on the system’, and only then, will you be issued with a bidding number on a paddle or card enabling you to bid either in the saleroom or remotely. Similar checks will be necessary before those who wish to participate on-line can do so.


Check the real estate before buying. You must inspect and thoroughly examine the car in your sights, preferably during the viewing day, when you and/or an accompanying expert or motor engineer, if you don’t have the knowledge, are likely to have better access to opening up all the panels and be able to crawl around underneath. What is it really like beneath the gloss and the underseal? Is there any evidence of any maintenance carried out on a regular basis?


Only at purpose-built facilities can classics be seen being driven across the block. For thanks to wonderful Elf and Safety, being able to start cars and run up their engines and check gear engagement has become impractical if not impossible at most sale venues with public access. It is usually these Nanny Regulations that have thwarted US-style drive-through sales from catching on and exhaust gassing the addicted. Potential buyers are particularly dependent therefore both on the diligence, accuracy and honesty of the catalogue description of cars that, in most cases and particularly at minor houses, may not have been seen in the metal by auction staff, but only in an email, before the goods turn up at auctions and are ‘sold as seen’.


Paperwork tells the story of a car.  Remember to check out the all important and often revealing paperwork at the documents desk, and give all the numbers on the car a physical check and make sure they correspond with the ones on the registration document and Heritage certificate.  Any old service books, MOTs, tax discs and receipts will so often indicate not just what’s been done to the car and when and at what mileage, but reveal what hasn’t.


Watch and learn from what happens with preceding lots. Although there may be bids already recorded on the auctioneer’s book, and other bidders may be competing for lots by telephone or, increasingly on-line, try to choose a spot where you can see who else may be bidding against you in the room. Don’t imagine that a discreet nod or a wink, as in the movies, is going to work from several rows back in a dimly lit tent. If you want to bid, make it obvious, so that the auctioneer knows you are in the frame.


As the bids increase, how much will you have to pay? I would suggest you work out in advance how much a series of theoretical bids/hammer prices - in both likely to be large increments to start with and then smaller increments approaching the lower estimate figure - are actually going to cost you in terms of the add-ons of buyer’s premium, which will depend on which house it is and how much they charge, as well as the VAT levied by HMG. With your handy list pre-prepared, you will then be able to better gauge how much you can afford to go to.   If you are successful - and you win the car - you will have to do four things. Pay for your purchase. Go to the cashier desk, check out your sale invoice and tell them how and when you will be paying it. Insure the car. Because on the fall of the hammer, you technically own the car and are therefore responsible for insuring it, you should immediately do so by contacting one of the specialist classic car brokers (sometimes a broker approved by the auction house will have a fixing insurance cover desk at the sale), preferably warning them before the sale that you may be buying a car. As with so many transactions in our fast-track world, you can also buy cover over your mobile. Whatever you do, though, take no risks and leave no gaps in your cover. Take it away. Advise the auctioneers when and how you intend to pick up your purchase. Transporting a motor vehicle (the true mechanical condition of which is unknown) has to be so much wiser than jumping in and attempting to drive it home until you have really checked the systems through in the workshop. Going public. And finally, work out how you’re going to break the news of your success when you get home. Good luck with that.


For lest you forget, as you browse through potential candidates for a place in the garage, sooner or later, you are supposed to put your hand up and buy something!       

HOW TO IMPORT YOUR CLASSIC CAR

Tempted by favourable exchange rates into importing a classic car, but don't know where to start? Let us show you the ropes...

The age of the internet has brought massive benefits to classic car enthusiasts, whether they’re ordering replacement parts, researching their favourite models or simply joining in on a conversation with other fanatics of the same marque. Crucially, though, it has opened up it has opened up another fascinating door, allowing us to see cars for sale all over the world. And there can’t be many of us who haven’t followed this up with thought of actually bring one back to the UK.

These days it’s a simple process to go online and start perusing classic cars for sale just about anywhere; and when that happens, it’s not long before our thoughts turn to the prospect of buying a car overseas and importing it to the UK.


Finding your car

So where are the overseas bargains – and what’s available if you fancy the challenge? The answer is potentially this: everywhere and everything.

The process of browsing online for suitable classic cars in your country of choice is relatively straightforward, and time spent doing this will give you an idea of what you can get for your money.
 

Buying in the EU

As for the actual process of importing an older car from a country that’s part of the EU, this is often straightforward – as is registering it in your name for use in the UK. The theory is that you bring the car to Britain from any EU country, MoT it over here (via its chassis/Vin number, assuming it’s a 1960-on car which requires an MoT) and then apply to the DVLA for a V5C document in your name.

This registration process involves completing a form V55/5 (downloadable from the internet via www.gov.uk/vehicle-registration) and paying a £55 first registration fee, as well as the cost of Vehicle Excise Duty. Your new V5C will then arrive via the DVLA a few weeks later.

You’ll obviously need to ensure that your imported car comes with the official paperwork from the country you’re buying it in, as this will need presenting to the DVLA to prove its make, model, age and spec. And when it comes to the first MoT test, you’ll need to ensure your car is UK-compliant, particularly when it comes to areas like front and rear lighting.

Another thing to bear in mind is that it’s technically illegal for a permanent UK citizen to use their vehicle in this country while it’s still registered overseas. This is something the police are cracking down on, as reported earlier this year. Similarly, if you’re going to drive the car from its previous address in Europe all the way to a UK port, you’ll be legally required to have insurance that covers you for the journey.

The good news for would-be importers, of course, is that the EU has more member states than ever these days – including recent additions like the Czech Republic, Hungary, Estonia, Lithuania, Slovakia, Romania and Malta. Don’t assume, however, that former Communist Bloc countries are still overrun with bargain-priced classics waiting to be snapped up by British enthusiasts. For example, supplies in the Czech Republic aren’t what they were, thanks to a hefty Ecological Tax on older vehicles there now. As an alternative it’s often worth checking online for cars that have already made it over here form countries like Poland, driven over by people migrating to Britain.     


From outside the European Union

Inevitably, the process of bringing a car over from any country outside the European Union can be rather complicated.

For starters, you need to decide whether you’re going for container shipment or the ‘roll-on, roll-off’ (RORO) process. The latter is unsuitable for any vehicle needing work, however, as the car obviously needs to be in a drivable condition. On the other hand, container shipping is generally more expensive – with some quotes coming in at three or four times the £1000-£1500 you might get away with via RORO for a car based in the US.

Doing everything from the UK means finding a company in the country the car’s based in that you can trust to arrange the process, and making sure they get your newly acquired classic to the docks on the due date. Or you can entrust the whole procedure to a British specialist with representatives in your country of choice (the easiest option by far), but obviously more expensive.

Cost-wise, you also need to factor in the taxes that are due once your classic car arrives in the UK from outside the EU. Duty is rated at 10% (on the price of the car and the shipping costs combined), with 20% VAT then payable on that total figure (including the car’s purchase price and all of the transport and insurance expenses). Exceptions to this are cars that are more than 30 years of age and are in original condition, with no substantial changes to their chassis, engine, transmission, steering, brakes and so on; once a Binding Tariff Information (BTI) certificate has been issued by Customs to confirm such facts, these cars should attract no duty and only 5% VAT on the total cost of purchasing and importing your car.

 

10 point importing checklist

1.    Choosing your car

Be sure of what you want, and how much you’re prepared to pay. If it’s a specific car you want, make sure you research everything.


2.    Make friends

There’s nothing better when buying than being armed with all the facts. If you’re unable to see the car you’re looking at first hand, find someone on the ground – a specialist or someone in a club – who can do it for you.


3.    Be sure of your costs

It’s all well and good finding the classic of your dreams for a bargain price, but be sure that the cost of shipping doesn’t make the whole operation uneconomical.


4.    Know how you’re getting it home

If you’re buying in Europe, consider driving it home to keep down costs – but make sure you’re insured and it’s legal!


5.    Shipping it home?

If you’re buying from further afield, make sure that you’re familiar with the port it’s sailing from – and if it’s coming from the USA, carefully consider if you’re shipping from the Eastern or Western seaboard, and how close it is to where the car is.


6.    Getting it to the docks

So, you’ve decided where it’s sailing to the UK from – check that the seller will deliver it to the port. And, if not, please make sure that you factor in additional transportation costs.


7.    Taxes paid?

When your new pride and joy arrives in the UK, remember that if it’s from the outside the EU, you’ll need to pay import duty, and VAT on top of that.


8.    Insurance

Make sure that you’re covered before, during and after your arrival in the UK.


9.    Making it legal

Before you can get your car registered, you’ll need to get it MoT’d. This is a standard test for EU cars.


10.  Registration

Once tested, make sure that you fill in your forms, and arrange registration with the DVLA at the earliest opportunity.

10 TOP TIPS TO GET THE BEST PRICE FOR YOUR CLASSIC CAR

< All Blogs

1. MAXIMUM EXPOSURE

The more people who see that you car is for sale, the greater the chance you'll have a bidding war on your hands. Upload your advert to Classic Cars For Sale and put it into our sister newspaper Classic Car Weekly, both are FREE for private sellers to advertise. Do be aware that, if selling on an online auction site, such bidders might not always be genuine, or in a fit state to make over-generous bids.

2. WATCH YOUR Ps AND Qs
Well-constructed advertisement prose will help sell your car, whereas poor spelling and scant descriptions can turn potential buyers away. The suggestion is that if the vendor is inarticulate, the standard of care the vehicle has received may be questionable.

3. HAVE THE CAR READY
There's nothing more embarrassing than having to explain away unexpected non-starting, whether it is due to a discharged battery, stale petrol, electrical problems or just about any other reason. Such a failure could at best lose you money, or at worst, send the buyer packing.

4. SET THE SCENE
A dingy, ill-lit garage can be a real turn-off. Try to show the car at its absolute best in a clean and dry environment. Granted, a spot of rain can help to hide blemishes on dull paintwork, but it can make potential buyers think twice when it comes to making a real offer.

5. SELL FROM HOME...
...for a couple of reasons. The first is that it gives the buyer extra confidence that the sale is genuine. Even if the car is kept elsewhere, where possible ensure that the sale at least commences at the kept address. Also, there may be sales legislation complexities if the car is advertised for sale on work premises.

6. BE HONEST
One person's perfection can be another's average condition. If you can't praise those rose-tinted specs from your face, ask a knowledgeable pal for an honest critique of the cart being sold. If it's a non-runner, then say so and if the paintwork is blistering, mention it in the description.

7. GET OUT AND ABOUT
Use the car so that it gets seen. It's surprising just how much interest can be generated by a classic car in a supermarket car park and if it has for sale notices prominently displayed in the windows, it's like a mobile billboard all the way there and back.

8. SPIT AND POLISH
If the car is looking its absolute best, then selling it will be easier. For years the author Barbara Cartland always seemed to be filmed in the softest focus. You need to emulate this glamour on your driveway. Consider a professional-grade valeting.

9. BE CONFIDENT
If you've made sure that the car is up to scratch in all aspects then there should be no reason why you shouldn't be happy to take it out for a decent test drive. However, as a private seller, be wary of allowing prospective buyers to drive the car themselves and never allow them to do so alone.

10. DETAILS, DETAILS, DETAILS
The more detailed and honest an advertisement is, the better the prospective buying public will trust the seller. Buyers like history files and restoration pictures. If there are any with the car, even if you haven't undertaken the work yourself, have the service and repair history ready for viewing.

LIVING WITH UNLEADED

As the engines in most classic cars were designed to run on leaded petrol, which was withdrawn from sale in 2000, what precautions need to be taken when running them on modern unleaded fuels?

Lead was used as an additive in petrol to produce higher-octane fuels that have improved resistance to ‘pinking’ or ‘detonation’ (when fuel explodes in an uncontrolled manner in the combustion chamber rather than being ignited into a controlled flame by the spark plug). It was also later discovered to protect the valve seats from wear. Some licensed garages are allowed to sell a limited amount of leaded fuel for use by historic vehicles, but they are few and far between and prices are considerably higher than for regular unleaded petrol.

Super unleaded petrol with a higher octane rating than the standard 95 sold on British forecourts is available from suppliers as diverse as Shell and Tesco these days – and some classic car engines designed to run on 100 octane can benefit from its use.

In general, pre-1992 cars designed to run on leaded petrol may need to have their ignition timing adjusted if they are to avoid problems with pinking on standard 95RON unleaded.

Older cars with valve seats cut directly into cast-iron cylinder heads or blocks can suffer excess wear of the seats if subjected to hard, high-speed use. The solution is either to have hard-alloy valve seats or an exchange cylinder head fitted. That’s a considerable expense – a cheaper alternative is to use a proprietary branded additive in your petrol. There are a number of firms who supply bottles of beneficial stuff with various claims as to their efficacy for classic car engines. We’ve listed the additives endorsed by the Federation of British Historic Vehicle Clubs (fbhvc.com) below – but if using them, take care. Mixing can be an acquired art in small volumes – you don’t want to overdose your engine!

 

Millers VSPe Power Plus (from millersoils.net)

A petrol fuel treatment claimed to have lead-replacement and octane-improvement qualities, as well as providing protection against ethanol. Ethanol is an additive which is commonly used in modern petrol and at increasingly high percentages – unfortunately, it can corrode gaskets and other soft fittings in the engine’s fuel system.

 

Red Line Lead Substitute (from redlineoil-europe.com)

A lead substitute claimed to prevent damage to engines designed for leaded petrol, plus clear deposits in carburettors and fuel injectors, and to be safe for catalytic converters. But it’s produced for racing or off-road use only.

 

Castrol Valvemaster (from castrolclassicoils.co.uk)

 This additive has undergone a valve recession test by an independent test house on behalf of the Federation of British Historic Vehicle Clubs – the results indicated that the level of valve seat protection it provides is likely to be adequate for all normal driving. Castrol’s Valvemaster Plus provides an added octane boost when added to unleaded fuel.

 

Tetraboost (from tetraboost.com)

Tetraboost ‘E’ Guard 15 claims to allow the user to mix ‘genuine leaded four or five-star fuel’ and to offer protection from up to 15% ethanol content in fuel.

 

The bottom line with these fuel additives is that only certain cars will derive any serious benefit from them. For many drivers of classic cars, modern unleaded and super unleaded fuel will not provide any major problems, unless their vehicles are regularly pushed to the limit of their performance. It all depends on the constituent parts of your engine and fuel system – if you don’t know, contact the car club that deals with your respective vehicle. The thing to remember is, once you’ve found a particular fuel or additive that your car is happy with, stick with it and you should enjoy your classic motoring for many miles to come.

OLD ISN'T HISTORIC SAYS FIVA

‘Cars need to be at least 30 years old and not used daily.’ But the FBHVC has asked Europe to rethink its stance

 

The European body looking after the rights of classic car enthusiasts believes many cars – even those over 30 – don’t meet its criteria as ‘historic vehicles’.

The Fédération Internationale des Véhicules Anciens (FIVA – the European umbrella organisation of historic vehicle clubs) has defined what it regards as an ‘historic’ vehicle. But the narrow parameters may exclude many accepted classics, deeming them just ‘old’ rather than ‘historic’ – the latter giving them rights to lower or zero taxation.

As FIVA lobbies EU politicians to introduce exemptions from low emissions zones (LEZs), its president Patrick Rollett has identified ‘historic vehicles’ as: ‘A mechanically-propelled road vehicle at least 30 years old, preserved and maintained in a historically correct condition and not used as a means of daily transport. These vehicles are part of our technical and cultural heritage and should not be lumped together with old, badly maintained cars that are used as cheap, everyday transport when considering the problem of urban air pollution.’

This statement is important because if governments and other official and legal bodies accept what a historic vehicle is for one situation, it could lead to this becoming the accepted definition across the board. Thus, nothing built after 1986 would currently be regarded as historic. This would split the production life of some classics, such as the Saab 900 or first generation Range Rover for example, in two, despite there being few major differences between pre- and post-cutoff cars. In addition, anybody who has modified their car could find its historic status denied, however old it is, because it’s no longer in ‘correct condition.’ 

And using a vehicle everyday could also deny it being regarded as historic. Many enthusiasts have pre-1986 classics that have been modified to make them more suitable for regular 21st century driving. Are they to be penalised for safety-conscious upgrades to their suspension and brakes so that the cars can be used and seen more frequently (ironically ensuring more widespread exposure for ‘technical and cultural heritage’)?

FIVA has yet to reveal how it will closely demarcate and police this definition, and whether ‘daily transport’ might mean precisely that. However, it does seem
that the cut-off date of 1986 may have been influenced by many LEZs targeting diesel vehicles, with FIVA stating that, in
its view, ‘very few historic vehicles have diesel engines’. 

The Board of the Federation of British Historic Vehicle Clubs has stepped in to calm members and classics enthusiasts. Geoff Lancaster, communications director of the federation said: ‘These are concepts for use in FIVA’s activities and not intended to be incorporated into European Union or any other law. The FBHVC has requested FIVA withdraw its press release to give FIVA executive time to consider their position on LEZs in the appropriate manner and with due consultation with the national federations.’ 

FLOODING ADVICE

It’s the nightmare scenario: you come down in the morning, your garage is flooded and your cherished classic is sitting in dank water. Here's what to do if you find yourself in this situation.

Here’s the plan:

1. Obviously the first thing to do is drain the water out of the garage. Easier said than done until the flood waters subside.

2. Use a plain water hose to rinse off every surface of the car inside and out.

3. Get the vehicle into a dry and warm garage, then begin dismantling. The whole interior will need to come out, along with all soundproofing and fabrics. Usually the headliner can stay in, and in some cases the dashboard. Dry everything out separately, and while it’s all drying, mop up the steel interior of the car.

4. Once the car has dried properly indoors — 20-25 degrees Celsius for three-four days with localised heat applied with a heat gun or hair drier (gently!) should do it — you can repaint, re-Waxoyl, repair and re-assemble.

5. If your engine has been submerged, remove spark plugs and turn the engine over, then change all oils before actually starting up.

DID STEVE MCQUEEN PERFORM ALL THE DRIVING IN BULLITT?

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In the eyes of petrolheads and film buffs alike, the pursuit scene from Bullitt remains the car chase on which all other vehicle action scenes are judged. Steve McQueen claimed to have performed the driving stunts himself, but what’s the real story?

Did Steve McQueen do all his own driving in Bullitt?

Did Steve McQueen do all his own driving in Bullitt?

We have all delighted in the valiant and heart-pounding vehicular action projected onto cinema screens over the last 50 years, from James Bond’s Aston Martin DB5 screeching around the Alps to flying Italian Job Minis and the late John Frankenheimer’s rampant chaos in Ronin. However, one chase stands head and shoulders above the rest when all bets are laid down on the road - Peter Yate’s masterpiece of petrol-filled mayhem, Bullitt. 

Despite some charming continuity errors including hubcaps of vast numbers soaring from each car, cameras occasionally visible in the back seats and the overall impression that two American muscle cars can navigate corners at speed, the scene was praised for its realism and even earned Frank Keller an Oscar for best editing.

Steve McQueen portrayed the movie’s main character, a greying investigator with the San Franciso Police Department by the name of Frank Bullitt, determined to hunt down the underworld kingpin responsible for killing the witness in his protection. A confessed ‘gear-head’, it was only natural that a car chase would be included - with the script calling for an automotive ’action scene’ from day one. It’s unlikely that the stunt performers realised the impact they would have on global cinema, yet it took the world by storm. You can watch part one of the car chase below.

Ford was the official car sponsor, with the protagonist driving an oh-so-cool 1968 Ford Mustang painted Highland Green Metallic. Due to the heavy abuse required filming the cinematic undertakings, the two Mustangs used featured beefed-up suspension and Koni adjustable shocks - alongside straight through exhausts. All badges were removed and stock wheels replaced with 15-inch American Racing Torq-Thrust D mags. The steering wheel was replaced with a Shelby leather-rimmed piece.  While the Mustangs were heavily modified, the opposing two Dodge Chargers were largely stock except for the wheels - allowing the five hubcaps to roll off down the street. 

Filmed in May 1968, folklore claimed that the chase flowed seamlessly from location to location and that you could actually drive the chase route. In reality, this sadly isn’t the case, with locations disjointed. However, that’s not the only myth to stem from Bullitt’s 10-minute magnum opus.  

There has long been speculation as to the amount of stunt driving McQueen performed. Some sources say he undertook the whole thing, with the stunt driver unable to control the mighty Mustang successfully, but some claim otherwise. However, after a bit of digging the truth comes to light. 

According to the late Bud Ekins, one of McQueen’s long-time friends, the king of cool had originally intended to do the stunt driving himself but couldn’t keep up with the handler driving the Dodge Charger. On one particular take, McQueen lost control and spun out, nearly taking a cameraman with him. This is when Ekins, also McQueen’s stunt double, was told to take his place. 

Although he never did the more difficult car control segments for the film, McQueen drove for a significant portion of the time.  Something you certainly wouldn’t get past health and safety nowadays. 

And of the two Mustangs? Sadly, one was damaged so badly after taking on San Francisco that it was deemed irreparable and scrapped by Ford.  The other is out there somewhere - being sold to a Warner Brothers employee after filming wrapped up. Changing hands several times since then, it’s apparently stored in the deep south by someone refusing to part with it - despite holding front end damage and rusting camera mounts welded to the bodywork.  Even Steve McQueen couldn’t get it back before his untimely death.

While CCFS can’t offer you the Mustang used in Bullitt, we do have some very similar. Looking to exercise the villain in you? We have Dodge Chargers, too… 

PICKING A WINNER

Picking a winner

Picking a winner

It’s that time of year when buying guru Quentin Willson picks the five Smart Buys of 2016, those rare opportunities to buy a classic car that is truly great to own but miraculously hasn’t been swept along at the same pace of the rest of the market. 

To bring his predictions to life, and to put their virtues to the test, the Classic Cars team gathered an Austin-Healey 3000 MkII, MGB GTV8, Mercedes 560 SEC, Ford Escort Cosworth and Alfa Romeo SZ for a memorable test day. We each had our favourites – my choice was the ’Healey – but Quentin had to pick a winner. You can find out his verdict in the May issue, on sale until April 26.

Buying advice and market analysis is part of 16 pages of buying information in every issue of Classic Cars magazine, including Quentin Willson’s Smart Buys, Russ Smith’s Market Watch, in-depth buying guides and Ads on Test.

For more details of the latest issue, visit www.classiccarsmagazine.co.uk

REASONS TO OWN A CLASSIC CAR

Have you seen a beautiful classic car cruising down the road and imagined it was you behind the wheel? A classic car on the drive is a dream many of us aspire to. Sunny summer days spent touring the countryside, it’s an idyllic image and a reality that brings happiness to thousands of classic car owners every year. Your fantasy could become a reality too.

Your dream car is out there and with thousands of classics currently for sale on ClassicCarsForSale.co.uk it shouldn’t be too hard to find. 

Why you should own a classic car:


Appreciation not depreciation

Modern cars typically lose thousands as soon as you drive them off the forecourt. Owning a classic, on the other hand, could prove to be a sound investment with the value actually increasing as it ages. So not only will you get to experience the joy of classic car ownership but you could make money while you do it.

No road tax

If your car is over 40 years old, then it's tax-exempt. You'll still need to fill in the tax form on the gov.uk/vehicle-tax website, but you won't have to pay anything.

Enjoy your commute

Many people use their classic as their daily drive, meaning that even the most routine, mundane commute can become an enjoyable experience.

Be part of a community

As a classic car owner there are a bootload of reasons as to why it’s worth joining a club. From technical help and advice, to social events with other car enthusiasts.

Stand out from the crowd

A classic car is an excellent way of turning heads, it’s also a great conversation starter with others who share a fondness for classic motorcars.

PRACTICAL CLASSICS GUIDE TO THE MORRIS MINOR

Practical Classics guide to the Morris Minor

Practical Classics guide to the Morris Minor

Practical Classics guide to the MORRIS MINOR

 

Everything you need to know about buying, restoring, maintaining and enjoying the Morris Minor. 

 

A special one-off magazine, The Practical Classics Guide to the Morris Minor, is out now. It contains everything you need to know about buying, restoring, maintaining and enjoying the Morris Minor, collated from the pages of Practical Classics magazine. We'll take you on a journey from the birth of the legend to how the Minor became Britain's favourite classic car – and you'll pick up real-world advice about owning a ‘Moggy’ along the way.

 

Priced at £6.99, the publication is available from all WH Smith stores. A numbered, limited edition version signed by the Morris Minor luminary, Ray Newell, with a free exclusive DOUBLE SIDED, A3, poster, is also available now, priced at £20. 

 

Driving and enjoying  

The story of the Minor told with period adverts’ anecdotes and interviews followed by road tests and comparisons which lift the lid on what the Minor means to the modern classic car enthusiast. Britain's best writers get under the skin of Britain's favourite classic car.

 

Buying and selling

In-depth, real-world buyers’ guides you can actually use. What to look out for, what to enjoy and how to make the very best deal. The guide also takes you through the various Minors you can buy, and what makes them special.

 

Restoring and maintaining

Our step-by-step story of a 1960 pick-up’s restoration, readers’ rebuild tales of woe and wonder, the detailed guide to maintaining your own Minor, and our own sagas and tales from the Practical Classics workshop.

CLASSIC CAR VALUES- KEEP YOURSELF COVERED!

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Unless you’ve been living in a hole in the ground, you will have noticed that classic car values have risen a bit in the last few years.

Do you know how much your classic is really worth?

Do you know how much your classic is really worth?

And by a bit, I mean a lot. You may well remember the headlines: Artcurial’s record sale of a Ferrari 335 Sport Scaglietti in February for €32.1m and RM Sotheby’s sale of an Aston Martin DB4 GT Zagato for a British car record of £9.45m in December. The Hagerty Price Guide blue chip index has shown values rise by 325% since 2007- compare that with the mere 95% rise in gold values or the measly single-figure gains of the FTSE100.

But it isn’t just top-end classic cars that have gone up in value. Hagerty have shown that some of the biggest price risers in recent months have been in the sub- £30,000 bracket.

In particular, 1970s and ‘80s performance Fords have been rocketing. The Capri Mk III 2.8i has shown a 6.9% increase in the first quarter of 2016, and some high-quality Ford Escort Mexicos, Lotus Twin-Cams and RS1600s have all achieved double-digit percentage growth in the same period.

Front-engined Porsches, once the 911’s poorer (and cheaper) cousins, have also started to make up ground. Hagerty have shown good quality Porsche 944 Turbos rising by nearly a quarter, and Porsche 928 values taking off, especially the top-of-the-range GTS.

MGs, whose values have been stuck in a bit of a rut of late, have also started to gain value- especially the MGC GT, with top values now over £25,000.

So what does all this mean for the classic car owner? If you’re not intending to sell your pride and joy, then you may think not a lot. But beware- if the worst did happen and your classic was damaged, lost or stolen, just make sure your insurance is going to provide you with enough money to buy a replacement. Keeping track of your car’s value isn’t greedy- it’s common sense.

DRIVEN: ROVER SD1 VITESSE

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An arresting sight - after setting an auction world record for the model last January, this Rover SD1 is back to doing what it does best: screeching around with its sirens screaming

You’re an up-to-no-good sort making a quick getaway from the oil-rich world of 1980s Aberdeen. The Ferrari you’re driving is ideal if you’re on the A90 and on the run from the law. But the law is easily capable of pulling three-figure speeds on eastern Scotland’s expressway, too. You see it before you hear it: a fuzzy blue flicker just visible at the edge of the horizon in your rear-view mirror. And every time you steal another glance, it looms ever larger.

Within seconds, the V8 boom of a jam-sandwich liveried Rover SD1 Vitesse is slicing through the dual-carriageway traffic alongside you, and the two fluorescent-clad custodians of the law inside beckon you to pull over. You ignore them.

Suddenly, a rolling road block hoves up ahead, and forces you to slow in a rather controlled and undramatic fashion. You could continue to run, but deep down, you know you’re caught. The game’s up and the Grampian Police SD1 chalks up another victory. Sorry, sunshine, you’re nicked!

A quarter-of-a-century later and it’s clear that C356 YST is still a police-liveried car that would give ramraiders and joyriders plenty to think about. After being treated to a restoration by SD1 specialist RobSport International – as detailed on 26 April in the TV series For the Love of Cars – it’s now more than up for a game of cops and robbers.

Plant your posterior into the brown velour of the driver’s seat and you immediately learn it’s going to be a comfy office to work in. The speedo, rev counter and switches for the hazard warning lights and heated rear window are all neatly contained within a single rectangle. You get a good view of it through a steering wheel with just two spokes, both mounted low to minimise obstructing your line of sight. The sharply-raked windscreen and thin pillars give the cabin a light, airy feel. It’s pure SD1 in all its cleverly-designed glory – right down to the passenger air vent that hid the steering wheel mount in left-hand drive models – but it’s also more ordinary than you might expect.

The police toys all live on the passenger side, including the five-setting siren and intercom system. Your fellow officer might be the one sounding the siren, but as driver you do get to operate the car’s crown jewel: the Lucas fuel injected version of Rover’s 3.5-litre V8. Fire it up and the noise is intimidating, like a mate who’d wallop someone on your behalf in a pub brawl.

It’s happy to dawdle along in traffic, rumbling at anything that gets in its way, but when the road in front opens up, a gentle prod immediately reminds you why the V8-engined versions of the SD1 were used to such devastating effective by the police in the 1980s. The grumble turns into an angry howl, delivering a dollop of mid-range torque to help you decide how quickly you’d like to catch the villains.

While it’s softly sprung ride and emphasis on straight-line grunt was clearly intended for use on dual carriageways and motorways, chuck a corner or two in its way and the SD1 doesn’t mind a bit. There’s a lot of lean as you plough towards the apex, and a light helping of understeer and gentle tyre squeal if you press on. Inevitably, the combination of a Rover V8, rear-wheel drive and relatively slim tyres mean the SD1 will treat you to some sideways showboating if you really muck about with it. But the supple set-up gives you plenty of warning and encourages you to use its wealth of speed with care.

It’s a hugely enjoyable and wonderfully effective reminder of how to do a performance saloon properly – and that’s before you order your companion to flick on the sirens and notify the control room you’re about to give chase. Suddenly, the V8 rumble is relegated to the subs’ bench as the wail of the two-tone takes over.

It isn’t hard to see why the boys in blue held on to their SD1s after production came to an end in 1987 – despite the coupé profile, it offers plenty of room for all the safety gear, and enough torque to propel all that clobber plus two burly coppers to three-figure speeds with ease.

 

The Liver Run: The SD1’s finest half-hour

Calling the successful transfer of a transplant organ across London on 8 May 1987 the SD1’s finest hour isn’t strictly accurate, because the Metropolitan Police had a mere 35 minutes to complete the 27-mile journey!

Two Rover SD1 3500s were used to transfer the donor liver from Junction 7 of the M11 motorway – where the officers had met an Essex Police Ford Granada which had transported the organ from Stansted Airport – to Cromwell Hospital in Kensington. To make matters worse, the aircraft that had ferried the organ down from Hull had been delayed by fog, cutting into the time the police had to carry it across London. It was critical that the liver arrived by 12.30pm and no later.

The SD1s immediately got up to speed on the life-saving journey, hitting speeds of upwards of 100mph on the drive down the M11 towards the capital. The two cars had been given permission to drive the wrong way around the Victoria Memorial roundabout, immediately in front of Buckingham Palace, in order to shave precious minutes off the journey, and the officers had to use all of their advanced driving skills to get through busy Friday lunchtime traffic safely without risking the safety of pedestrians and other drivers.

Despite having the assistance of motorcycle outriders on the capital’s streets, as well as fellow officers clearing junctions for the two cars, the run showed how a combination of the SD1s’ performance and the officers’ driving skills made the difference between life and death on London’s busiest streets.

The two SD1s arrived at Cromwell Hospital with just five minutes to spare, having averaged 44.6mph for the entire journey. The donor liver was delivered and the patient, Aliza Hillel, survived the operation – thanks in no small part to the Met officers and their SD1s achieving a seemingly impossible task.

 

The Grampian SD1’S journey to an auction record

This particular Rover SD1 Vitesse pursuit car was ordered in 1985 by Grampian Police, who used it to catch criminals and motoring transgressors driving at speed along the A90, particularly the dual-carriageway Stonehaven Bypass which had opened the previous year.

The force ordered its only SD1 with a manual gearbox – unusual for a police-spec vehicle – and omitted many of the luxuries that were fitted to civilian Vitesses in order to reduce weight and improve reliablility. As a result, the car has manual rather than electric windows, and does without the air-conditioning, central locking and electrically-operated sunroof that Vitesse owners are accustomed to.

After being decommissioned by the police in 1988, it passed through a series of owners, including one who partially restored the car but was unable to complete the project for personal reasons. Last year, it was bought by Love Productions, the television company behind For the Love of Cars. It was then restored by Ant Anstead and SD1 specialist RobSport International, who welded in new metal where it was needed, rebuilt the suspension and resprayed the car in its original police livery.

The car was sold, along with six others restored for the TV series, at Coys’ sale at the Autosport show at the NEC on 10 January. It changed hands for a total price of £11,213, including commission – a record price for a roadgoing variant of the SD1.

Grampian Transport Museum said it was worth paying that hefty price for the SD1 because it meant being able to bring the police car back to the part of Britain where it was originally on patrol, and it has already been used during the museum’s Emergency Vehicle Rides Day, which took place on 10 April.

Grampian Transport Museum director Mike Ward told CCW: ‘When we found out that it was up for sale, it was always our intention to try to bring this rare example back home. The hammer went down at £9750. It’s sure to be a fantastic addition to our collection.’

TEN LUXURY CLASSIC CARS FOR LESS THAN £10,000

Not everyone wants to dash around in a sports car, or enjoy bare-bones motoring basics in a Minor, 2CV or Fiat 500. There’s a lot to be said for enjoying a bit of luxury lifestyle, not least because you can often have it for the same price or even less than those omnipresent sporty rides or tiny saloons. Yes, for a budget of less than £10,000 you can sign up to a taste of the lifestyle originally preserved for the world’s elite – chairmen and chart-toppers, sheikhs and politicians. Obviously it will cost you a bit more at the petrol pumps, but how many miles do you drive your classic each years anyway? Do the sums and the actual cost difference might surprise you. Call it 3000 miles. Versus an MGB or TR that does 26mpg, something big and comfortable that sups a gallon every 16 miles will cost you the far from princely annual sum of £360 extra in fuel.

The choice is wide depending on your preferences of badge and era. Here are 10 suggestions to tempt you with. It could be time to put a bit of waft in your life – and you know you’re worth it!

 

Citroën CX Prestige - PROJECT £800CONCOURS £6500

For the ultimate in cossetting rides, there really is nothing to match a long-wheelbase CX – and the Prestige, with its higher roofline, is also truly cavernous inside, particularly in the back. For years the car of choice for French presidents, the Prestige is packed with comforts and soft leather seats, rear footrests, plus, of course, the usual smattering of Citroën quirkiness. You kind of expect the single-spoke steering wheel and spaceship dashboard, but there’s also the strangely quilted and buttoned leather or cloth upholstery, and a stereo mounted sideways next to the handbrake in some versions. All things that let you know you’re somewhere else; somewhere rather special.

We also have to mention the Holy Grail of Prestige (and CX) ownership: the Prestige Turbo. Rare even in its homeland, just five were built in right-hand drive, although they do turn up on the market from time to time. A nice one sold at ACA last year for £6400, which looked cheap.

Easier to run than you might think – with the help of a Citroën specialist – the CX’s main enemy is rust, which can even break out in the roof. But don’t be put off, just buy with care.

 

Bentley Mulsanne/Eight - PROJECT £2000CONCOURS £12,500

You could include the option of the almost identical Rolls-Royce Silver Spirit here, but is there anyone who wouldn’t prefer the kudos of the Bentley badge – especially as prices are very similar? There’s even a turbocharged version of the Mulsanne that can still be picked up within our budget. Imposingly big, you get an almost peerless ride thanks to the Citroën-style oleo-pneumatics at the rear and effortless pull from the understressed V8 – 50% more of it in turbo form. The Eight, from 1984 on, brought an extra touch of Bentley-ness with its mesh grille, front spoiler and twin headlamps, and was sold for £10,000 less than a Mulsanne without losing out on too much of the luxury. 

Previous history is an important consideration when buying one of these. Look for an example that’s enjoyed long-term well-to-do ownership and has been serviced by specialists, rather than something from the carriage trade that’s been run on a shoestring and moved on before its demands catch up with it. The right cars are out there, and not necessarily much more expensive than the rough stuff yet. 

 

Maserati Quattroporte III - PROJECT £2750CONCOURS £13,000

The Quattroporte (or Royale in USA) was never officially imported to the UK, but that doesn’t stop you finding them here today – and for very tempting prices. These were exclusive, handbuilt cars and Maserati turned out less than 200 a year between 1979 and 1990. But given they cost around 20% more than a Mercedes-Benz 500SEL in the 1980s, demand was never going to be heavy. Many were sold to Arab countries and are now regularly liberated from there with quite low mileages. All were left-hand drive.

These are big cars – made to look more so by Giugiaro’s slab sides and straight lines that hide none of the bulk – and they weigh in at nearly two tonnes. Despite that, a Quattroporte doesn’t feel that big from the driver’s seat, seeming to shrink in your hands and drive like a smaller car. You can even chuck one about a bit if you don’t mind the body roll. But you’re more likely to be enjoying the powerfully high-grade ambience of the cabin, all soft leather and expensive veneers. 

When buying, pay special attention to the body, as any new metal needed will have to be hand-formed. You can also expect to encounter the odd electrical problem – it goes with the territory.

 

Rover P5B Coupe - PROJECT £800CONCOURS £6500

Arguably the high point for Rover as a carmaker, the V8-engined P5B was not only blessed by the backsides of several British Prime Ministers but Her Majesty, too; the Queen was an owner/driver of several P5Bs, admiring the car’s excellent craftsmanship and keeping her last one until 1987. 

The P5B also has the honour of being the first Rover to its soon-to-be-everywhere development of GM’s aluminium V8 engine. That alone transformed the car, which by the time of the transplant had been in production for nine years. Not only did the V8 add almost 50bhp, but its lighter weight stripped 250lb from the Rover’s bulk, and as nearly all of that had sat over the front axle, the car’s handling was transformed. 

Reflecting on all this, one legendary motoring journalist summed up the P5B as ‘Outdated but highly satisfying’. That is surely also the definition of a classic car. The interior is a delight of quality leather and wraparound wood trim, and the foam-lined tool tray that slides out from under the dash is a joy to behold. Rear passengers were treated to a picnic tray and separate space heater.

Only buy the best P5 you can find, as anything else will soon end up costing you the same amount of money anyway. And remember – Coupés cost more than the saloons.

 

BMW E32 7-series - PROJECT £750CONCOURS £6000

BMW’s one-time range-topper is now almost a candidate for scholars of Bangernomics. Our quoted price range includes the revered 750i V12 model, but there are also two six-cylinder versions – the 188bhp 730i and 211bhp 735i. The most we could find one advertised for was £3995 and that was a full-historied 55,000-miler, which was almost an insult to the series. 

These were high-end cars, packed with all the latest technological innovations that we now take for granted, such as electronic dampers, traction control, Xenon headlamps on later models, and even double-glazing on some. And that’s just a selection from the list. All of this was served up with BMW’s excellent build quality, so cars tend to hang together well and take high mileages in their stride. Being a BMW, they drive well, too, with surprising agility for such a big car. All that lets them down – at least by modern standards – are slightly underwhelming brakes, but even these can easily be upgraded.

Time can take its toll on 21- to 29-year-old cars, though. So check for leaking fuel tanks and for corrosion – particularly around sunroofs, arches and underneath – and make sure all that the electronic stuff still works, although rectification often just involves cleaning and lubricating (probably a lot of) electrical terminals.

 

Toyota Century - PROJECT £3000CONCOURS £12,500

OK, you’re not going to find one of these in many classic car showrooms, but they do exist in the UK and there’s also the possibility of importing one from their homeland.

So what is a Toyota Century? Nothing less than Japan’s ultimate automotive status symbol, left largely unchanged during a 30-year production run from 1967 to 1997, apart from its gadgets. By which time something that looked like a 1960s Lincoln was firmly into anachronism territory and all the better for it – an instant classic. 

Everything kept pace under the skin, though, and later cars like the one pictured largely used Lexus LS400 running gear, so they’re easy to look after and will probably never wear out. Plus you can only hear the V8 running if you lift the bonnet. But it’s inside where you really feel the luxury – and we mean feel it. You’ll commonly find them with heated rear seats with a massage function, TV, video and a fridge. Leather is uncommon as the Japanese feel it’s noisy to sit on.

 

Mercedes-Benz 500/560SEL (W126) - PROJECT £650CONCOURS £5000

This has to be the ultimate bang-for-your-buck expression of our theme. In their day, Mercedes-Benz’s 1980s flagship models were said by many 

to be the best cars in the world. Yes, even better than Rolls-Royce’s offerings. Now you regularly 

see good quality S-class models selling at auctions for a couple of grand. Even one in tip-top condition won’t cost you more than £4500-£5000.

If you’re going for it, you might as well go the whole hog in long-wheelbase SEL form. Then sit back and enjoy the best materials available in late 1980s Germany, along with every technological advance then known to man, assembled to the highest engineering standards. The 560SEL cost £62,000 by the end of its life – a lot for a car now, never mind 1991 – but for that you got self-levelling suspension, ABS, anti-lock braking, cruise control, climate-control air-conditioning, powered heated memory seats, side airbags, a top level entertainment system, and an electrically adjustable steering column. Being a Mercedes-Benz, you can buy one now for around £60,000 less and all those items probably still work.

For peace of mind, we’d be willing to pay a little more for one with plenty of history, but buy one soon before word gets around. 

 

Jaguar XJ12 SI-SIII - PROJECT £650CONCOURS £7500

A triumph of British engineering, the XJ12 is an under-appreciated classic that should probably be worth twice what you can buy them for. Perhaps they were simply around for too long and were tainted by tales of heavy thirst and association with their XJ6 twin brother, which is still seen as being a bit ‘Arthur Daley’.

The favourite has to be the SIII model, introduced in 1979 with a cleverly penned styling makeover by Pininfarina. Make it a 1981-on HE (high efficiency) model and you’ll get 16mpg or more, which is way better than the wince-inducing 12-13mpg of earlier models. As set out in the intro, it really is worth putting up with that because the XJ12 is among the best four-door GTs of all time. The super-smooth and quiet V12 engine has the pull of a muscle car, While the suspension strikes a perfect balance between a supple ride and sharp handling. All the while you’re wrapped in an embracing cabin that says ‘I’ve made it’. 

Buying one can be a bit of a minefield, however, as many have sat idle for considerable lengths of time, and they don’t like that. Best to seek out something that has either been properly recommissioned with bills to prove it, or else been in fairly regular use by an enthusiast.

 

Vanden Plas 4-litre R - PROJECT £1250   CONCOURS £8000

To some this might be the ultimate expression of a BMC ‘Big Farina’, but it does have pedigree. Vanden Plas performed a clever restyle that dramatically cleaned up the roofline and all but eliminated the fins from the rear wings. Under the bonnet is a genuine Rolls-Royce all-alloy straight-six engine – never mind that they were left over from a cancelled War Department contract. 

So we’ve got coachbuilding, big names,and a cabin that is almost exactly what you were expecting: lashings of slippery leather and enough wood to build a dining table. In fact they almost did – there are the traditional VDP picnic tables that fold into the seat backs. 

All that lets the side down are quarterlight catches and an indicator stalk of lowly Morris Minor heritage, plus the fact that you have to wind the windows by hand. 

But none of that really matters because it is still opulent in a particularly British, early 1960s way. And thanks to the light and powerful engine, it is far more enjoyable to drive than any other Big Farina. Just make sure that engine is in rude health, as fixing one can be complicated and expensive. 

 

Daimler Majestic - PROJECT £2000CONCOURS £10,000

Daimler’s 1960s hot-rod for the landed gentry, the Majestic Major had an almost indecent turn of speed thanks to its Edward Turner-designed 4.5-litre V8 engine, the big brother to the 2.5 version used in the SP250 Dart. Americans would have called the surprisingly revvy engine a Hemi, as it breathes freely through hemispherical combustion chambers, but Brits just nodded imperceptibly at the knowledge of a job well done. The Major is hard to distinguish from the regular six-cylinder Majestic, with only a longer boot to justify its name visually – unless it’s one of the stretched limo versions, which are still good for 120mph and would kick sand in the face of a Rolls-Royce Silver Cloud.

They’re filled with wood and leather, naturally, so make sure it is in good enough order, as a complete retrim could easily cost as much as the car is worth. And watch out for corrosion and past repairs – these might look grand but are as susceptible to rot as any car from the 1960s.

The running gear is tough and will rarely have been pushed hard. On size alone these must be among the ultimate Q-cars. Go on, give someone a real surprise!

SEVEN COOL CARS YOU CAN BUY FOR LESS THAN £7000

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You can get an awful lot of classic car for the price of a secondhand supermini, if this little lot is anything to go by

Classic cars have gone up a lot in price over the last few years – so much so that you’d be forgiven for thinking they might as well be made from unobtainium and cost more than a bachelor pad in Chelsea.

However, look through the classifieds carefully and there are sorts of great cars you can pick out for not a lot of money – in fact, all of the slightly offbeat choices here can be picked up for less than the price of a secondhand Golf.

From off-the-wall Minis to leather-lined Mercedes, you’re spoilt for choice…

 

1971 Mini Mk3

Take another look – yes, that really is a standard Mini front end with the be-finned rump of the Riley Elf and Wolseley Hornet.

It’s the South African market Mk3 model, although this particular model was shipped over to the UK in 1981, used for a couple of years, and then promptly forgotten about. That’s why this one, despite being a running car with 30,000 miles on the clock, is essentially an unrestored, barn find classic for a shade under £6k.

 

1978 Ford Transit

Is it a fire engine? Is it a cheaper, more exciting alternative to a motorhome? Is it a curvaceously cool Seventies load lugger? The answers is it’s all of those, and for not a great deal of cash.

This long wheelbase model has only covered 18,000 miles from new, and the seller describes the bodywork as being in excellent condition. Bonus points: all the fire service sirens and lights still work!

 

1975 AMC Pacer

Perfect if your idea of Friday night fun involves belting out Bohemian Rhapsody alongside your mates and lookingly longingly at electric guitars. Not only is this AMC Pacer yours for less than two grand, it’s also one a handful of the Pacer X – as in right-hand-drive models – in the UK. It’s partially restored, so it’s a perfect car for anyone happy to get stuck in with finishing it off.

 

1996 Vauxhall Corsa Convertible

We know what you’re thinking. How, in a world of Maserati Ghiblis and Jaguar E-types, can this possibly be considered a classic car?

Look again, though, and ask yourself another question – when was the last time you saw one? Only 100 or so were ever sold in the UK, so whether you love or loathe the idea of a ragtop Corsa, it’s a rare beast. It’s cheap, too; we found this one for just two grand.

 

1960 Ford Popular

The ideal tonic for any of you repulsed by a Corsa Convertible – a car of such unquestionable classic-ness it’ll get you waved through the gates at just about any historic vehicle event.

This 1960 100E Deluxe model has been owned by the same man for the past 25 years – and has only covered a mere 300 miles in the last five – and the interior, chromework and mechanicals are all in good nick. Yours for less than £6000, if you want a fuss-free car to get into all the shows this summer.

 

1987 Mercedes-Benz 420 SE

The Eighties iteration of the S-Class is still stupendously good value for money. This 420 SE has full leather, cruise control, air conditioning, electric everything and a silky smooth 4.2-litre V8, and all for less than the price of a secondhand Ford Fiesta. Yes, the mileage might be a little on the high side, but this particular car has all the signs of being well looked after throughout its life.

 

1974 Rolls-Royce Silver Shadow

You read that correctly – you can buy a Rolls-Royce Silver Shadow for £7000. It’s not only got the ultimate pub brag factor, but there are few experiences in classic car motoring that can beat whooshing along on its hydraulic, self-levelling (and borrowed from Citroen) suspension system, hearing the gentle purr of its 6.75-litre V8 and looking down a never-ending bonnet to see the Spirit of Ecstacy guiding you in the distance. Wonderful.

 

What would you buy with a budget of £7000? Let us know by leaving a comment below.

BEEN THERE DONE THAT: ALFA ROMEO 75

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The omens weren't good for the 75 when it was launched, but it turned out to be an exciting if eccentric BMW 3-series battler...

Been there done that: Alfa Romeo 75

Been there done that: Alfa Romeo 75

Grasp it in the wrong way and the pain could even shock. The sharp, multi-fingered stabbing you’d feel when releasing the handbrake of an Alfa 75, whose U-shaped handle’s squeezable safety catch was highly likely to pinch the fleshy pads of your fingers, could easily produce a yelp of surprise. Not the kind of tactile intimacy most drivers wanted from their cars.

Those closely following a 75 in traffic might reckon its driver was occasionally delivering them a mimed expletive, should he be operating the Alfa’s electric windows. Why? Because the ceiling-mounted rockers invited single-digit prodding easily visible through the rear window, which a tailgater might interpret as an uncalled-for single-digit signal. It was Alfa Romeo’s PR man who pointed that out, his view of the car refreshingly realistic. But while the 75 had its foibles, it made an unusual alternative to a 3-series.

Not that the 75 seemed that way when it was launched in 1985. It was little more than a reclothed 1977 Giulietta, itself built out of the 1972 Alfetta.

But there were positives. The most substantial of these were Alfa’s terrific 1.8 Twin Cam and the honeyed baritone of its legendary 2.5-litre V6. The 75 had a quiet, well-insulated aura of robustness about it too, and a better gearchange than other Alfas with the rear-mounted gearbox.

This meant near-perfect weight distribution, the point of which you might question at first: the 75’s handling softly understeer-prone until you discover the accelerator is also a trajectory-affecting device.

Alfa GB’s new boss made cautiously bullish noises about sales; and journalists at the launch, this one included, almost dared to believe it.

Despite an accelerator pedal angled to give you leg-ache within the hour and a slide-out glovebox that did just that under fierce acceleration, the 75 was an entertaining drive. 
It started to sell well. At which point Alfa GB’s boss was fired for allegedly having his hand in the till.

Happily, this did little to stall Alfa’s novel sales uplift, which was given a further boost with some small changes. One was to offer the V6 with a manual, as the auto-only 2.5-litre was like making Usain Bolt run with a splint; another was to uncramp the accelerator; and the third was to fit a new Twin Spark 2.0-litre whose 148bhp brought the four-cylinder 75 alive.

Sales didn’t rocket but they grew, the 75 gathering a keen following that makes it surprising that more of these engaging cars don’t survive today, especially as they were pretty reliable, and unlike so many Alfas past, very reluctant to rust.

BUY A MERCEDES 500E

Buy a Mercedes 500E

Buy a Mercedes 500E

Against the soaring prices of other Eighties/Nineties performance saloons like the BMW M3 and Cosworth Sierra the Mercedes 500E still looks good value. With a governed 155mph top speed, 0-60mph in 6.3 seconds (5.2 for the AMG E60 version), hand-built exclusivity by Porsche and discreetly tweaked Mercedes W124 styling it’s a lot of car for £20k. Remember, you’d have had to find £57k to buy one new, and that was way back in 1991.

Of course, the very virtues that make it so appealing also mean that you need to arm yourself with all the right knowledge before waving your money around. Sure, these cars were beautifully built, but even the best build quality is soon outwitted by neglect and abuse. The detailed buying guide in the latest issue of Classic Cars take you through a five-step checklist to help you avoid to most annoying and expensive faults that you’re likely to encounter.

Buying advice and market analysis is part of 16 pages of buying information in every issue of Classic Cars magazine, including Quentin Willson’s Smart Buys, Russ Smith’s Market Watch, in-depth buying guides and Ads on Test.

Phil Bell
Editor, Classic Cars magazine